Original subtitles

>>> IT’S HARD TO BELIEVE THAT JUST A FEW MONTHS AGO THE FIRST

WAVE OF COVID‐19 HAD EMPTIED THE STREETS OF NAPLES AND ITALY WAS

IN LOCKDOWN. THANKFULLY, I’VE ARRIVED DURING

A BRIEF MOMENT OF NORMALITY. RESTAURANTS ARE OPEN AND MASKS

ARE NOT REQUIRED OUTSIDE. AND WE’LL BE STICKING TO THE

LOCAL RULES. NAPOLI IS A TRULY THRILLING

CITY. THE SECOND YOU ARRIVE YOU’RE

ENGULFED BY A MAGNIFICENT CHAOS. AND THERE’S NO POINT IN FIGHTING

IT. PEOPLE HERE DO THINGS THEIR OWN

WAY. TAKE THE ENERGY OF NEW YORK, MIX

IN THE GRITTY ELEGANCE OF NEW ORLEANS, ADD 3,000 YEARS OF

HISTORY, AND COOK IT ALL UP IN THE HEAT OF THE WORLD’S MOST

FAMOUS VOLCANO. THAT IS NAPOLI.

I’M STANLEY TUCCI. I’M ITALIAN ON BOTH SIDES AND

I’M TRAVELING ACROSS ITALY TO DISCOVER HOW THE FOOD IN EACH OF

THIS COUNTRY’S 20 REGIONS IS AS UNIQUE AS THE PEOPLE AND THEIR

PAST. >> IN THE SOUTH WE ARE VERY USED

TO ‐‐ >> THIS PLACE MAY BE LOOKED DOWN

ON. BUT THE PEOPLE WHO LIVE IN THIS

REGION HAVE THEIR OWN WAY OF DOING THINGS.

>> FOR ME THIS IS OUR PHILOSOPHY.

THIS IS OUR TRADITION. >> THEY’VE GIVEN THE WORLD ITS

FAVORITE FOOD. JUST DON’T FORGET WHERE IT WAS

INVENTED

. IF PIZZA WAS GOING TO BE BORN

ANYWHERE, IT WOULD BE HERE IN NAPLES.

THE CITY IS HOT, FAST, AND A FEAST FOR THE SENSES.

NAPE GOES IS THE UNOFFICIAL CAPITAL OF THE ITALIAN SOUTH AND

IS EVEN OLDER THAN ROME. IT’S A REGION OF VOLCANIC

LANDSCAPES, MAGICAL ISLANDS, AND THE WORLD FAMOUS COAST.

THE SOUTHERN SUN NURTURES TOMATOES THAT ARE THE ENVY OF

THE WORLD. OUT IN THE HILLS, BUFFALO

PRODUCE THE MILK FOR THE FINEST MOZZARELLA.

BUT PIZZA WASN’T BORN IN THE LUSH HILLS.

IT CAME FROM THE DARKEST, POOREST STREETS OF NAPLES.

AND ITS STORY COMBINES TWO OF ITALY’S FAVORITE SUBJECTS ‐‐

FOOD AND DEATH. >> ITALY’S HISTORIC VOLCANO

EXPLODES INTO THE MOST FEARSOME AND DEVASTATING ERUPTION.

AT LEAST ONCE IN EVERY CENTURY. >> THE VOLCANO IS SORT OF AN

EVER PRESENT THREAT ISN’T IT? >> IT IS.

BECAUSE IT IS ON THE LANDSCAPE. YOU ALWAYS WATCH IT.

YOU ALWAYS HAVE IT IN YOUR MIND AND IN YOUR EYES.

>> THIS PROFESSOR IS ONE OF THE 3 MILLION RESIDENTS WHO LIVE IN

THE SHADOW OF THE MIGHTY VOLCANO.

>> PEOPLE ARE OBSESSED BY THE POSSIBILITY OF DYING BECAUSE

THERE IS A VOLCANO, BECAUSE THERE ARE EARTHQUAKES.

>> YES. >> THERE ARE EPIDEMICS.

>> YES. >> SO IT IS VERY HARD FOR THEM.

>> LIFE CAN BE TOUGH IN THIS VOLATILE CITY.

IT’S NO WONDER EVERYWHERE YOU GO IN NAPLES YOU SEE HAND MADE

SHRINES, KEEPING A LIGHT SHINING FOR LOVED ONES WHO HAVE DIED.

THIS IS ALL OVER THE CITY YOU SEE THIS.

>> YES. THEY ARE INCLUDED IN THE

ARCHITECTURE OF THE CITY. YOU KNOW, THESE ARE KIND OF

TEMPLES OF MEMORY. >> RIGHT.

>> YOU REMEMBER THE PEOPLE OF YOUR FAMILY OR YOUR FRIENDS

ESPECIALLY YOUNG PEOPLE WHO DIED.

>> COMING FROM A SOUTHERN ITALIAN FAMILY, DEATH WAS ALWAYS

TALKED ABOUT. I REMEMBER MY GRANDMOTHER USED

TO CALL MY MOTHER. MY MOTHER WOULD PICK UP THE

PHONE AND SHE’D SAY ‐‐ >> YOU KNOW WHO DIED?

>> EXACTLY! THAT’S WHAT IT WAS.

>> MY GRANDMA DID THE SAME. IT WAS ALSO A WAY FOR FEELING

ALIVE. >> ELIZABETTA IS SHOWING ME THE

HISTORIC PART OF THE CITY. FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS THE

POOREST PEOPLE OF NAPLES WERE PACKED INTO THESE NARROW

STREETS. TERRIBLE SANITATION MEANT YOUR

LIFE COULD BE SNATCHED FROM YOU AT ANY MOMENT BY THE BRUTAL

EPIDEMIC OF THEIR AGE ‐‐ CHOLERA.

>> PEOPLE REALLY GOT SCARED. >> RIGHT.

>> BECAUSE IT WAS AN EPIDEMIC LIKE MORE OR LESS THE COVID‐19

VIRUS. >> YES.

>> SO YOU COULD TRANSMIT IT VERY EASILY.

>> RIGHT, RIGHT. >> CHOLERA WAS SPREAD BY WATER

AND BY FOOD. SO PEOPLE HERE COOKED PIECES OF

BREAD IN HOT OIL. SO THE FRYING IS SIMPLER.

>> IT’S SIMPLER. IT’S EASY.

YOU CAN GET A VERY GOOD POINT OF HYGIENE BECAUSE FRYING REALLY

STERILIZES EVERYTHING. >> IT WAS PROBABLY ONE OF THE

FEW TIMES IN LIFE THAT FRYING SOMETHING MIGHT ACTUALLY HAVE

BEEN HEALTHY FOR YOU. >> SO THIS IS WHERE WE’RE GOING

TO GET FRIED PIZZA? ALL RIGHT.

[ SPEAKING IN OTHER LANGUAGE ] >> OKAY.

PIZZA,

RICOTTA. >> YOU KNOW, SINCE A CENTURY HER

FAMILY IS DOING THIS. >> FOR A CENTURY.

>> FOR A CENTURY. >> THESE STREETS WERE ONCE FULL

OF PLACES LIKE THIS. BUT FERNANDA IS NOW THE LAST OF

AN HISTORIC LINEAGE. >> IT ALL PUFFS UP.

DOESN’T IT? >> IT’S BEAUTIFUL.

ALL RIGHT. THAN

K YOU. READY?

FERNANDA ‐‐ [ SPEAKING IN ITALIAN ]

>> THIS DELICIOUS POCKET OF HISTORY WAS PIZZA BEFORE PIZZA

WAS PIZZA. WITH THE PORK AND THE RICOTTA.

>> IT IS VERY TASTY. >> AS WE WALK OFF SOME OF THOSE

CALORIES, ELIZABETTA TELLS ME HOW PIZZA WAS BORN IN THESE

STREETS FROM QUITE UNPROMISING BEGINNINGS.

>> MOSTLY THEY WERE SELLING BREAD WITH A LITTLE BIT OF FAT

ON IT, SOMETIMES PEPPER, BECAUSE PEOPLE WERE REALLY POOR.

THEN AT A CERTAIN POINT, PEOPLE HERE INVENTED PIZZA.

BUT FOR MANY YEARS IT WAS JUST A KNEE

NEO POLITAN DISH. >> CHOLERA PLAYED SUCH A ROLE.

>> FOR CENTURIES. >> THANKFULLY FOR US BY THE LATE

19th CENTURY THE ITALIAN PREJUDICE AGAINST NAPLES AND ITS

FOOD BEGAN TO CHANGE AND WE ARE GOING TO THE PLACE WHERE

ACCORDING TO LEGEND IN 1889 THE ITALIAN QUEEN ORDERED A PIZZA

THAT WENT ON TO BEAR HER NAME, THE MARGARITA.

DO YOU MAKE PIZZA AT HOME EVER? >> IN NAPLES IT IS ALMOST

FORBIDDEN. >> NO POINT.

>> THE ONLY PROBLEM WAS DURING LOCKDOWN ALL THE PIZZERIAS WERE

CLOSED. THAT WAS REALLY BAD.

THE FIRST DAY AFTER THE LOCKDOWN, 60,000 PIZZAS WERE

MADE, THE SAME DAY. >> REALLY.

>> YES. THEY WERE NOT SUFFICIENT BECAUSE

EVERYBODY WANTED A PIZZA. >> THEY WERE SO DESPERATE.

>> FIRST THE PIZZA AND THEN THE VACCINE.

>> IN THE STREETS OF NAPLES PIZZA GREW OUT OF ONE PANDEMIC

AND SUSTAINED THE CITY THROUGH ANOTHER.

WHAT WAS BORN IN A PLACE CONSUMED BY DEATH, IS NOW A FOOD

THE ENTIRE

TREE IN THIS CITY OF PIZZA MAKERS THERE IS A MAN WHOSE

REPUTATION TOWERS OVER THE TOWN LIKE VESUVIUS.

HE WROTE THE GLOBALLY RECOGNIZED STANDARDS ON MAKING THE BEST

NEOPOLITAN PIZZA IN THE WORLD AND WAS THE FIRST EVER TO BE

RECOGNIZED BY THE MICHELIN GUIDE.

THE ONLY THING HE LOVES MORE THAN PIZZA IS NAPLES, ITSELF.

[ SPEAKING IN ITALIAN ] BEFORE HE MAKES ME A PIZZA THE

MAESTRO NEEDS TO GO SHOPPING. WHEN YOU’RE HERE, WHO NEEDS A

STORE WHEN YOU CAN GO STRAIGHT TO THE SOURCE?

BUFFALO WERE BROUGHT TO WORK THE SOUTHERN ITALIAN LAND BY ARAB

CONQUERORS ALMOST A THOUSAND YEARS AGO.

AND EARLY EACH MORNING, THEIR MILK IS TURNED INTO THE FINEST

MOZZARELLA. THIS MASKED MAN IS ACKNOWLEDGED

AS ONE OF THE GREATEST CHEESE MAKERS IN ITALY.

ONCE THIS MORNING’S COLLECTION OF BUFFALO MILK IS HEATED, HE

SEPARATES OUT THE CURDS AND THE WHEY.

THE CURDS ARE CHOPPED AND BOILING WATER IS ADDED.

THE RESULT IS INCREDIBLE. >> IT’S LIKE HE’S A MAGICIAN.

YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN? >> IN ITALIAN, THE WORD MEANS TO

CUT OFF. THIS ANCIENT PROCESS GIVES THE

CHEESE ITS NAME. >> MOZZARELLA.

>> THE MOZZARELLA THEN RESTS IN A SALT BATH FOR A FEW HOURS.

UNLIKE OTHER CHEESES, WHICH GET BETTER WITH AGE, MOZZARELLA IS

BEST EATEN FRESH. WHICH IS GREAT NEWS FOR ME.

>> OH, MY GOD. >> SO IF YOU’RE GOING TO MAKE

THE GREATEST PIZZA IN NAPLES, ONCE YOU HAVE THE BEST

MOZZARELLA YOU NEED THE PERFECT TOMATO.

THERE IS A PLACE WHOSE NAME IS WHISPERED IN AWE BY PIZZA FANS

EVERYWHERE FROM BROOKLYN TO BANGKOK AND ENZO IS TAKING ME

THERE. AS A PIZZA LOVER, I ONLY EVER

BUY CANS OF SAN MARZANO TOMATOES AND NOW I’M HEADING TO THE

PROMISED LAND ALTHOUGH I HADN’T QUITE EXPECTED IT TO BE A SMALL

FARM UNDER A FREEWAY. WE’RE MEETING ENZO’S SPECIAL

SUPPLIER, UNCLE VINCENZO. BEHIND HIS RUSTY GATES I AM

REMINDED HERE IN ITALY TREASURES ARE TO BE FOUND IN THE MOST

UNLIKELY LOCATIONS

.

>> I’VE EVEN SAN MARZANO TOMATOES ALL AROUND THE WORLD,

BUT THE BRIGHT, BALANCED FLAVOR OF THESE IS LIKE NOTHING I’VE

EVER TASTED.

>> YEAH, I KNOW. IMPOSSIBLE.

>> VARIETY IS ‐‐ VARIETIES USING THE SAN MARZANO NAME ARE

EVERYWHERE FROM NEW JERSEY TO NEW ZEALAND BUT ONLY THE

TOMATOES HERE ARE FED BY THE NUTRIENT RICH SOIL BY OUR OLD

FRIEND LOOMING ON THE HORIZON.

>> AFTER OUR LITTLE SHOPPING TRIP, WE’RE BACK IN THE CITY

AND, FINALLY, FINALLY THE MAESTRO IS MAKING A PIZZA FOR

ME. MASS PRODUCED PIZZA BRANDS

ALWAYS ADD SUGAR, FAT, AND FLAVORING.

BUT IN NAPOLI IT’S JUST WATER, FLOUR, SALT, YEAST, AND LOT OF

SKILL. THE CRUSHED SAN MARZANOS FROM

UNCLE VINCENZO GO ON FIRST. NEXT THE CREAMY NUGGETS OF

MOZZARELLA TO COUNTERACT THE SWEET SHARPNESS OF THE TOMATOES.

AND A FINAL FLOURISH. TO ADD SALTNESS AND FRAGRANCE.

AND THEN IN A MATTER OF MOMENTS, FOOD MAGIC HAPPENS.

>> OH, MY GOD. YUM, THAT’S DELICIOUS.

PERFECT. PERFECT.

PIZZA MAKING IS ONE TRADITION WE ALL HOPE WILL NEVER DIE OUT AND

THAT NAPLES WILL ALWAYS KEEP THE FLAME OF PURE, SIMPLE PERFECTION

BURNING.

>> SO THIS ISN’T WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE.

LET ME EXPLAIN. IN THIS CITY IT SOMETIMES SEEMS

LIKE EVERYONE IS MAKING UP THEIR OWN RULES BUT SOMEHOW THE PLACE

HANGS TOGETHER. I’M MEETING THE MAN WHO TRIES TO

KEEP SOME ORDER HERE, CHIEF OF THE MUNSICIPAL POLICE.

IN TRUE NEOPOLITAN STYLE HE WANTS TO EXPLAIN HOW IT WORKS

OVER A COFFEE. THE CAPTAIN ORDERS THREE COFFEES

FOR THE TWO OF US. I FIGURE HE JUST REALLY LIKES

COFFEE. BUT PAYING FOR ONE EXTRA IS

ACTUALLY A HUGELY IMPORTANT TRADITION HERE IN NAPLES.

IT’S CALLED SUSPENDED COFFEE. WHEN A PERSON IN NEED SHOWS UP

THE COFFEE SELLER GIVES THEM A FREE DRINK THAT THEIR FELLOW

CITIZEN PAID FOR EARLIER. >> CHEERS.

THAT’S NICE. >> THE PEOPLE OF NAPLES HAVE

UNOFFICIAL WAYS OF HELPING EACH OTHER OUT THAT GO BACK

CENTURIES. THEY SUSPEND ESSENTIALS LIKE

COFFEE, FOOD, AND EVEN TOYS FOR FAMILIES THAT CAN’T AFFORD THEM.

CAMPANIA IS THE SECOND POOREST REGION IN ITALY, AND COMMUNITY

HELP IS THE ONLY SAFETY NET SOME PEOPLE HAVE.

WHEN THAT FAILS THE POWERFUL MAFIA IS ONLY TOO READY TO SWOOP

IN.

>> POVERTY AND CRIME HAS ALWAYS BEEN PART OF LIFE IN THE CITY.

BUT IN THE 1960s AN EXPERIMENT TO IMPROVE THINGS WENT BADLY

WRONG. FIVE MILES FROM THE CITY CENTER,

A NEW WORLD WAS BUILT. IT WAS CALLED SCAMPIA.

THE POOREST NEOPOLITANS WERE MOVED OUT OF THE DARK SLUMS INTO

FUTURISTIC NEW HOMES, BUT THE DREAM QUICKLY TURNED INTO A

NIGHTMARE. THE PLACE HAD NEITHER JOBS NOR

TRANSPORT, AND PEOPLE HERE WERE TRAPPED.

CAMORRA CRIME GANGS STEPPED IN WHERE THE STATE HAD FAILED.

DRUGS WERE SOLD ON THE STREETS AND THINGS GOT SO BAD EVEN THE

POLICE STAYED AWAY. ORDINARY RESIDENTS WERE CAUGHT

IN THE MIDDLE. MORE RECENTLY A NEW CHAPTER IN

THE NEIGHBORHOOD’S HISTORY BEGAN WHEN HUNDREDS OF NOMADIC

TRAVELERS ARRIVED. >> STANLEY.

>> SAMANTHA. >> THEY CAME FROM EASTERN EUROPE

AND SET UP CAMP UNDER A FREEWAY HERE.

THEY SOUGHT A BETTER LIFE IN ITALY AND HAVE MADE THEIR HOME

HERE DESPITE NO ACCESS TO RUNNING WATER OR ELECTRICITY

. ALL ACROSS THIS NEIGHBORHOOD

THOUSANDS OF PEOPLE LIKE SAMANTHA SAW THEIR LIVES GOING

TO WASTE, UNFAIRLY LABELED AS CRIMINALS WHILE THE AUTHORITIES

TURNED THEIR BACKS. STILL, THIS IS NAPOLI AND PEOPLE

LOOK OUT FOR EACH OTHER IN THE MOST CREATIVE WAYS.

>> SO THE KITCHEN WAS A VERY POWERFUL INSTRUMENT TO OVERCOME

STEREOTYPES BUT ALSO CREATE WORK.

>> RIGHT. >> WE DECIDED TO MAKE A SMALLER

REVOLUTION THROUGH THE KITCHEN. >> IN A HUT ON THE EDGE OF

SCAMPIA LOCAL ACTIVIST EMMA AND HER FRIENDS REALIZED THEY HAD A

POWERFUL COMMUNITY, EACH WITH UNIQUE FOOD TRADITIONS, AND

DECIDED TO TAKE MATTERS INTO THEIR OWN HANDS.

>> IN THE SOUTH WE ARE VERY USED TO FIGHT WITH OR WITHOUT THE

INSTITUTION. THIS IS A VERY SOUTH ITALIAN

QUALITY. >> THE SMALL IDEA GREW INTO

SOMETHING ASTONISHING. THE HUT IS LONG GONE.

IT IS NOW A RESTAURANT AND CATERING COMPANY CALLED CHIKU

BASED IN A LARGE, DISUSED BUILDING HERE.

SAMANTHA, WHOM I MET OVER AT THE ROMANI CAMP, GOT A JOB AS A COOK

HERE. HER RECIPES PROVED SO POPULAR

THEY NOW STAR ON THE MENU.

CUSTOMERS NOW COME TO SCAM PIA FROM ACROSS THE CITY TO TASTE

THE DELICIOUS COMBINATION OF FOOD THEY CREATE HERE.

THIS PLACE RECEIVES NO GOVERNMENT HELP, BUT THE SUCCESS

OF THE SOCIAL ENTERPRISE ALLOWS THEM TO ALSO OFFER CHILD CARE

AND EDUCATION TO ALL THE RESIDENTS OF SCAMPIA.

THIS NEIGHBORHOOD STILL HAS HUGE PROBLEMS, BUT IN THE FACE OF

UNIMAGINABLE BLEAKNESS, THE VOLUNTEERS AT CHIKU HAVE OPENED

UP A SPACE TO MIX FOOD WITH TALENT.

DELICIOUS. DELICIOUS.

AND CREATE HOPE. THIS IS JUST THE MOST WONDERFUL

EXPERIMENT, BUT REALITY NOW, WHICH IS THAT YOU’VE TAKEN TWO

CULTURES AND BROUGHT THEM TOGETHER WITH A FRYING PAN

>>> THE GREATEST JOY OF TRAVELING IS SOMETIMES YOU

DISCOVER A PLACE BY CHANCE AND IT WINDS UP STAYING WITH YOU FOR

THE REST OF YOUR LIFE. 14 YEARS AGO MY LATE WIFE KATE

AND I TOOK A FERRY FROM NAPLES TO THE ISLAND JUST AN HOUR AWAY.

ONE NIGHT WE WENT TO A FAMILY RUN RESTAURANT WHERE THEY SERVED

FOOD WE NEVER EXPECTED TO HAVE ON AN ISLAND IN THE GULF OF

NAPLES. I TRIED TO COME BACK WHENEVER

I’M LUCKY ENOUGH TO HAVE THE CHANCE.

AND THE FAMILY’S ELDEST, SYLVIA, IS MEETING ME AT THE DOCK.

>> WELCOME. >> NICE TO SEE YOU.

>> YES. NOW WE START THE ADVENTURE.

ARE YOU READY? >> I’M READY.

>> NOW, YOU MAY WELL BE THINKING, TIME FOR A BEAUTIFUL

DRIVE ALONG THE COAST FOR SOME TASTY SEAFOOD.

BUT NO. THIS RESTAURANT STANDS DEFIANTLY

AWAY FROM THE SEA SIDE CROWDS. THROUGH THE WOODS AND HALF WAY

UP A MOUNTAIN. THIS IS ONE OF A HANDFUL OF

VOLCANIC ISLANDS JUST OFF OF NAPLES.

TOURISTS STARTED COMING HERE IN THE ’60s TO ENJOY THE THERMAL

WATERS. BUT BEFORE THAT IT WAS PIRATES

AND FOREIGN ARMIES WASHING UP ON THE SHORE.

SO ISLAND FAMILIES CHOSE TO LIVE UP IN THE SAFETY OF THE

MOUNTAINS. INSTEAD OF CATCHING FISH, THEY

CAUGHT RABBIT. THE PLACE IS OVERRUN WITH THEM.

THIS IS FAMOUS ACROSS ITALY. IN THE STATES WE RARELY EAT

RABBIT BUT THE DELICIOUS, LEAN MEAT DRAWS THE CROWDS UP HERE TO

THIS SECLUDED RESTAURANT. BUT BEFORE WE CAN EAT IT ‐‐ DO

YOU WANT ME TO OPEN THIS? >> YES, PLEASE.

>> WE HAVE TO CATCH IT. ABOVE THE RESTAURANT, WILD

RABBITS ARE CAUGHT WITH AN INGENIOUS AND SUSTAINABLE METHOD

THE ISLANDERS HAVE BEEN USING FOR CENTURIES.

A PIT IS DUG CLOSE TO THE RABBIT HOLE AND TASTY FOOD IS THROWN

DOWN TO TEMPT THEM OUT. FRAGRANT LEAVES AND BERRIES ARE

SPECIALLY SELECTED TO ADD FLAVOR TO THE RABBIT’S MEAT.

>> THE TASTE COMES THROUGH INTO THE MEAT.

>> THEN ALL YOU’VE GOT TO DO IS HOP IN, CATCH ONE, AND I’LL

SPARE YOU THE REST. SYLVIA’S LITTLE BROTHER

AUGUSTINO RUNS THE KITCHEN. HE’S BRILLIANT AT BRINGING OUT

THE BEST FLAVORS FROM THE WILD GAME HERE.

HE’S WORKED AT SOME OF THE FINEST RESTAURANTS IN NEW YORK

AND LONDON. BUT HE CAME HOME TO APPLY HIS

SKILLS TO TRADITIONAL, RUSTINC COOKING.

THE LAST TIME I SAW HIM I RAN INTO HIM ON THE STREETS OF NEW

YORK. HE WAS IN A BAD WAY.

I’M KIDDING. THAT WAS A LONG TIME AGO NOW.

>> YES, YES. >> BUT I LOVE RABBIT.

I COOK IT AT HOME A LOT. THE THING ABOUT RABBIT ‐‐

>> NO, NO. THIS RABBIT IS WILD.

OKAY. WE PUT OLIVE OIL.

GARLIC. OKAY.

>> THE JUICE. I LIKE THAT YOU PUT THE GARLIC

IN AS A WHOLE. >> YEAH.

NOW WHITE WINE. >> AH.

BEAUTIFUL. >> IT’S VERY SIMPLE.

TOMATO, HERBS, GARLIC, WHITE WINE, OLIVE OIL.

>> KNOWING HOW TO MAKE THE BEST OF WHAT YOU HAVE IS VITAL UP

HERE. WHILE THE RABBIT COOKS, I NOTICE

SOMETHING I’VE NEVER SEEN BEFORE.

THE NONA OF THE FAMILY, LORETTA, IS SHOWING HER GRANDCHILDREN HOW

TO TIE TOMATOES TO LOCAL VINES

. TODAY THE RESTAURANT IS CLOSED,

BUT I’M HONORED TO BE INVITED TO FAMILY LUNCH.

THIS IS THE FIRST TIME THE FAMILY HAS COME TOGETHER SINCE

THEIR FATHER PASSED AWAY EARLIER THIS YEAR DURING THE LOCKDOWN.

IT’S AN EMOTIONAL TIME, BUT ALSO ONE OF CELEBRATION.

OH, MY GOD! AS DELICIOUS AS THE FOOD IS,

TRADITIONAL COOKING LIKE THIS ALSO TELLS YOU THE STORY OF A

PLACE ‐‐ HOW THEY LIVED AND WHAT WAS IMPORTANT TO THEM.

FOR AS LONG AS ANYONE CAN REMEMBER, THERE’S BEEN A STRICT

HIERARCHY TO HOW ISCHIA’S RABBIT IS SERVED.

>> WELL YOU’RE VERY KIND. THANK YOU.

>> SADLY, IN THIS TRADITIONAL HIERARCHY, THE MOTHER OF THE

FATHER IS LEFT WITH THE BONY NECK AND SKULL.

TRADITIONAL FOOD LIKE THIS CONNECTS US AND MAKES US PART OF

A BIGGER STORY. THAT’S WHY, EVEN TODAY, FAMILIES

ACROSS ISCHIA SIT DOWN EVERY SUNDAY TO ENJOY A RABBIT AND A

POT TOGETHER

>>> AS IF THE AWE INSPIRING MAJESTY OF THE VESUVIUS AND

VOLCANIC ISLANDS ARE NOT ENOUGH, CAMPANIA HAS ONE FINAL CROWNING

GLORY. JUST A HALF HOUR OUTSIDE OF

NAPLES SOME OF THE MOST FABLED LANDSCAPE ON EARTH BEGINS.

IT IS THE BACKDROP FOR A THOUSAND ROMANTIC MOVIES AND

ONCE IN A LIFETIME VACATIONS. AND HOME TO A RESTAURANT WHERE I

HAD A SIMPLE ZUCCINI AND PASTA DISH THAT HONESTLY CHANGED MY

LIFE. I’VE BEEN LONGING TO COME BACK.

THE FAMILY HAD AGREED TO SHOW ME HOW IT’S DONE.

MY WIFE HAS COME TO JOIN ME. AND WE ARE IN ONE OF THE MOST

BEAUTIFUL PLACES IN THE WORLD. WHAT COULD POSSIBLY GO WRONG?

OKAY. SO THERE IS THIS ONCE IN A

DECADE STORM FORECAST AND EVERYONE IS TAKING SHELTER.

THAT DOESN’T STOP THE MORNING DELIVERY COMING DOWN FROM THE

FAMILY’S FARM UP IN THE HILLS. EVERY MORSEL GROWN BY THE

FATHER. PRIDE OF PLACE THIS SEASON IS

THE STAR OF MY FAVORITE DISH. ZUCCINI.

THE FIRST TIME I HAD THIS DISH I INSINUATED MYSELF INTO THE

KITCHEN TO WEEDLE OUT THE RECIPE FROM HIS DAUGHTER ANTONIA WHO

RUNS THE PLACE. WE NOW MAKE IT AT HOME EVERY

WEEK BUT IT IS NEVER AS GOOD. THE CHEF IS GIVING ME A MASTER

CLASS. MY WIFE FELICITY HAS EVEN FLOWN

IN TO MAKE SURE WE GET IT RIGHT. >> WE CAME HERE TWO YEARS AGO.

THIS IS THE REASON WE’RE IN THIS RESTAURANT.

>> WE HAVE PLAED IT EVERY DAY SINCE.

>> BASICALLY, PRACTICALLY EVERY DAY.

>> IT’S A FAVORITE. AMAZING.

>> WE LOVE THIS DISH. >> EVERYBODY ALWAYS THINKS THERE

IS GARLIC IN IT OR ONION. JUST THE SWEETNESS OF THE

ZUCCINI >> I KNOW.

WAIT. HE PUT IT IN.

>> WE MISSED IT. WE ARE SO UNPROFESSIONAL.

>> THE CHOPPED ZUCCINI ARE FRIED IN SUN FLOWER OIL AND THAT’S OUR

FIRST MISTAKE. WE NEED ABOUT THREE GALLONS MORE

THAN WE’VE BEEN USING AT HOME. >> IT IS FRUSTRATING TO SEE HIM

DO IT LIKE THIS WITH SUCH EASE WHEN WE HAVE BEEN LABORIOUSLY

FRYING THEM IN A SMALL VESSEL. >> HOURS.

LITERALLY HOURS U. >> ONCE FRIED, TOMASO LEAVES IT

OVERNIGHT TO SOFTEN UP. >> I FEEL LIKE WE’VE BEEN DOING

A LOT WRONG. >> WE’VE BEEN DOING IT ALL

WRONG. >> TOMASO HEATS UP THE ZUCCINI.

>> LOOK AT THAT AMAZING ‐‐ >> THAT’S BEAUTIFUL.

>> FINALLY, A WHOLE INGREDIENT THEY DIDN’T EVEN TELL US ABOUT.

>> BUTTER. I ASKED YOUR SISTER TWO YEARS

AGO. I SAID, DO THEY PUT BUTTER?

WHERE IS ANTONIA? >> YES, A LITTLE BIT OF BUTTER.

>> YOU DIDN’T TELL ME THAT. I’M SO UPSET.

NO, NO! I WON’T HOLD IT AGAINST YOU.

>> OH, MY GOD. LOOK AT THAT.

>> OKAY. MAYBE IT WASN’T DELIBERATE BUT

THEN WHY WOULDN’T YOU WANT TO KEEP A RECIPE THIS GOOD TO

YOURSELF? >> PEOPLE COME FROM ALL AROUND

THE WORLD JUST FOR THAT. >> FOR THAT.

THAT’S CRAZY. >> THIS IS TOO EXCITING.

>> AMAZING. >> OH, MY GOD.

LOOK AT THAT. >> 20 MINUTES OF ECSTASY.

>> EVEN BETTER THAN I REMEMBER. SUCH A SIMPLE DISH.

YOU MAKE IT SO BEAUTIFULLY. IT’S JUST ONE OF THE BEST THINGS

I’VE EVER HAD IN MY LIFE. >> THANK YOU SO MUCH.

>> ANTONIA, THANK YOU SO MUCH. THANK YOU.

LOOK AT THE WIND. >> THE SEA IS ALMOST BLACK AS

WELL. >> WE’LL JUST BE INSIDE EATING.

>> ANY OTHER DAY, THE SUN‐DRENCHED SPOT IS BUZZING

WITH DINERS THRILLED TO BE EATING IN ONE OF THE MOST

BEAUTIFUL PLACES ON EARTH. BUT AS THE STORM CLOUDS ROLL IN

FOR THE FIRST TIME THIS YEAR, EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THE EXPECTED

300 CUSTOMERS TODAY HAS CANCELED.

BY EVENING, FELICITY, THE FILM CREW, AND I ARE THE ONLY GUESTS.

RATHER THAN ALLOW ALL THIS INCREDIBLE FOOD TO GO TO WASTE,

THEY’RE MAKING A FEAST FOR ALL THE BRAVE SOULS STILL HERE.

WHILE THE KITCHEN TEAM .

WHILE THE TEAM WORKS SERENE ANY, THE FILM CREW HELPED ME CAPTURE

SOME VIEWS OF THE FAMOUS AMALFI COAST YOU WON’T NORMALLY SEE ON

A POSTCARD. >> ISN’T IT SO GORGEOUS?

>> A TAIL THE SIZEHAIL THE SIZE LEMONS JUST CAME DOWN.

HOLY ‐‐ YOU KNOW, I’VE HAD DREAMS ABOUT HAVING THIS PLACE

ALL TO MYSELF, BEING BROUGHT PLATTERS OF BEANS, MUSHROOMS AND

OLIVES FROM THE FAMILY FARM, FRIED SQUID, DUKE SCENE ANY

FLOWERS BUT I DIDN’T EXPECT IT TO BE IN QUITE THESE

CIRCUMSTANCES. HERE NATURE CAN BE CRUEL, BUT IT

ALSO CAN BE VERY KIND INDEED

♪ >>> THE STORM HAS PASSED.

THE NATURAL ORDER HAS BEEN RESTORED, AND IT’S ANOTHER

HEAVENLY DAY HERE ON THE AMALFI COAST.

I’VE TRAVELED ALONG TO THE LITTLE TOWN OF VENURI, KNOWN FOR

ONE OF THE MOST BELOVED DESSERTS IN ITALY, A BLAST OF SOUTHERN

SUNSHINE IN A CREAMY LIGHT CAKE. IT’S CALLED DELICE A LEMLEMONI.

AND TO MAKE IT, YOU HAVE TO HEAD FOR THE HILLS.

[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ] >> UP IN THE LEMON GROVES ABOVE

MINORI, I’M MEETING THE MAN WHO INTRODUCED THE UNIQUE AMALFIE

LEMONS TO THE DESSERT, AND GAME ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS PASTRY

CHEFS IN ITALY, SAL.

>> THESE LUCKY LEMONS ARE AN ANCIENT HYBRID OF BITTER AND

SWEET CITRUS FRUITS, AND THE LOCALS PUT THEM IN EVERYTHING

THEY CAN. >> CHEERS.

GRAZIE.

>> WE HEAD DOWN TO SAL’S SHOP ON THE SHORE, WHERE EVERY YEAR

THOUSANDS OF TOURISTS TAKE A BREAK FROM THE NATURAL WONDERS

OF THE COAST TO GASP AT SOME MAN MADE CULINARY MARVELS.

AT A TIME WHEN ITALIAN DESSERTS WERE DOMINATED BY NORTHERN AND

FRENCH CREATIONS, SAL PUT THE SOUTH OF ITALY FIRMLY ON THE MAP

BY CAPTURING THE ESSENCE OF THIS PLACE IN ONE PARTICULAR CAKE,

LEMON DELIGHT. SO WE KNOW WHERE THE LEMONS COME

FROM, BUT HOW DO YOU GET THE DELIGHT?

>> JESUS, ALL RIGHT. OF COURSE, CREAM.

THREE CREAMS, IN FACT. AND FOR GOOD MEASURE, YOU FILL

THE CAKE WITH CREAM. YOU TAKE IT RIGHT IN.

>> SI. >> AND WHEN THE CREAMS ARE

MIXED? YOU ADD MORE CREAM AND MORE

CREAM. >> WHOA.

>> AND MORE CREAM. A SPLASH OF LEMON LIQUEUR.

>> OH MY GOD. BUT HOW DOES HE GET THAT

DELICATE, SMOOTH COATING? NO.

REALLY? I THOUGHT YOU WERE GOING TO DO

SOMETHING INCREDIBLY ELEGANT. A LITTLE SWIRL OF CREAM TO

FINISH AND A PINCH OF AMALFIE LEMON ZEST.

>> OKAY. OKAY.

IT’S OKAY, OKAY, OKAY. >> OKAY.

>> AND I LOVE LEMON. I LOVE LEMON, BUT THAT’S LIKE ‐‐

LIKE ‐‐ ♪ >> WELL, WE’VE HAD COFFEE AND

NOW DESSERT. SO WHAT BETTER WAY TO END MY

JOURNEY TO CAMPANA WITH A GLASS OF LOCAL LIMONCELLO, MADE WITH

AMALFIE LEMONS, OF COURSE. >> OKAY.

>> OKAY. >> I’M SURE THAT MOST OF US HAVE

HAD A SHOT OR THREE OF THIS WITH FRIENDS.

PROBABLY AFTER GORGING ON CAMPAGNA’S OTHER GREAT

CONTRIBUTION TO THE WORLD, PIZZA.

WHEREVER WE ARE, THE FOOD OF THIS PLACE CAN’T HELP BUT BRING

US TOGETHER. >> CHEERS.