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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:13,416 --> 00:00:18,416 Subtitles by explosiveskull 2 00:01:23,057 --> 00:01:27,462 Our next guest is a free soloing phenomenon, please welcome Alex Honnold. 3 00:01:31,331 --> 00:01:34,266 Here is what I don't understand. 4 00:01:34,268 --> 00:01:38,473 One little mistake, one little slip, and you fall and die. 5 00:01:39,640 --> 00:01:43,275 Yeah, I mean, uh, you seem to understand it well... 6 00:01:43,277 --> 00:01:45,914 - Yeah. - Yeah. 7 00:01:46,747 --> 00:01:50,451 And I feel like anybody could conceivably die on any given day. 8 00:01:51,453 --> 00:01:56,057 Soloing makes it feel far more immediate and much more present. 9 00:01:58,391 --> 00:02:02,164 Does it feel different to be up there without a rope? 10 00:02:02,831 --> 00:02:05,263 When you're climbing without a rope, it's obviously like 11 00:02:05,265 --> 00:02:07,967 much higher consequence, much, much higher level of focus. 12 00:02:07,969 --> 00:02:11,206 You know, it's a whole different experience. 13 00:02:12,373 --> 00:02:15,206 So it's not like I'm just pushing and pushing and pushing 14 00:02:15,208 --> 00:02:17,109 until something terrible happens. 15 00:02:17,111 --> 00:02:20,015 I don't look at it, like, with that perspective. 16 00:02:20,981 --> 00:02:24,182 But maybe that's why it's dangerous for me. 17 00:02:24,184 --> 00:02:28,322 Maybe I'm too close to it and I can't tell that I'm speeding towards a cliff. 18 00:02:45,071 --> 00:02:47,274 Okay. 19 00:02:58,251 --> 00:03:00,652 I like to differentiate between risk and consequence. 20 00:03:00,654 --> 00:03:03,688 You know, when I'm doing these hard free solos I like to think that the risk, 21 00:03:03,690 --> 00:03:05,456 you know, the chance of me falling off is 22 00:03:05,458 --> 00:03:07,693 quite low even though the consequence is extremely high. 23 00:03:07,695 --> 00:03:10,229 And that's kind of like one of the appeals of free soloing, you know, 24 00:03:10,231 --> 00:03:13,935 to take something that seems difficult and dangerous and make it feel safe. 25 00:03:14,135 --> 00:03:18,203 So, do you think that, uh, being a rock climber has been a positive or negative 26 00:03:18,205 --> 00:03:20,004 for your dating life? 27 00:03:20,006 --> 00:03:21,372 My dating life? 28 00:03:21,374 --> 00:03:22,508 Yeah. 29 00:03:22,510 --> 00:03:25,377 I think, uh, I think overall it's been a negative. 30 00:03:25,379 --> 00:03:28,382 Um, I just travel too much and I live in a car. 31 00:03:34,988 --> 00:03:38,125 Let's talk through some of the climbing adventures you've had. 32 00:03:38,458 --> 00:03:41,193 The historic free solo climb, Moonlight Buttress. 33 00:03:41,195 --> 00:03:44,295 When I did it, it was like, "Oh," you know, kind of groundbreaking, 34 00:03:44,297 --> 00:03:46,331 kind of extreme. 35 00:03:46,333 --> 00:03:49,637 But for me it always felt quite easy and pretty secure. 36 00:03:49,870 --> 00:03:53,171 Well, that wasn't where you stopped, because that next challenge then 37 00:03:53,173 --> 00:03:55,376 was free soloing Half Dome. 38 00:03:56,143 --> 00:03:59,745 Half Dome was a huge step for me because it was twice as big as anything 39 00:03:59,747 --> 00:04:01,982 I'd ever soloed. 40 00:04:02,882 --> 00:04:06,418 Free soloing is so dangerous that less than 1% of people 41 00:04:06,420 --> 00:04:08,422 who climb attempt it. 42 00:04:08,989 --> 00:04:13,461 Alex has done more than 1,000 free solo climbs, but none were tougher than this one. 43 00:04:16,097 --> 00:04:19,301 I got quite scared in some places, and then you start to panic a little bit. 44 00:04:19,634 --> 00:04:22,670 And then you have to, like, reel it all back in. 45 00:04:25,006 --> 00:04:28,076 What is next in free solo climbing? 46 00:04:28,309 --> 00:04:30,542 Well, I don't know, I mean, I've thought about El Cap, like, 47 00:04:30,544 --> 00:04:32,543 for years and every year I look at it and I'm like, 48 00:04:32,545 --> 00:04:34,146 "That's really scary." 49 00:04:34,148 --> 00:04:37,348 Um, well, I've never even wanted to really, or I've always wanted to but then 50 00:04:37,350 --> 00:04:40,154 I've always been like, "That's too scary." 51 00:04:43,790 --> 00:04:47,629 I'm aiming towards the most beautiful valley on earth. 52 00:04:48,463 --> 00:04:52,163 I remember coming to Yosemite as a little kid and my dad would always have a little 53 00:04:52,165 --> 00:04:55,033 cooler in the back of the car, and have our cookies in the cold milk, 54 00:04:55,035 --> 00:04:58,370 and we'd sit on these slabs above Tunnel View, which is, like, 55 00:04:58,372 --> 00:05:01,208 the most epic view of Yosemite. 56 00:05:01,441 --> 00:05:05,579 As soon as you see El Cap it's like, "Oh, there it is, pretty exciting." 57 00:05:08,482 --> 00:05:12,754 El Cap is the most impressive wall on earth. 58 00:05:55,362 --> 00:05:58,096 Yeah, I mean I love, I love being in the van. 59 00:05:58,098 --> 00:06:00,565 I probably feel extra comfortable in the van now because I've lived 60 00:06:00,567 --> 00:06:03,134 in it for nine years. 61 00:06:03,136 --> 00:06:06,471 My first van, well, I actually stole the family minivan. 62 00:06:06,473 --> 00:06:09,774 My dad died when I was 19 and I, I quit school. 63 00:06:09,776 --> 00:06:12,276 There was some life insurance. 64 00:06:12,278 --> 00:06:15,213 I had just enough to dirt bag. 65 00:06:15,215 --> 00:06:18,884 Six years ago I was living in a Walmart parking lot and spending eighty-eight cents 66 00:06:18,886 --> 00:06:21,823 on dinner every night. 67 00:06:22,023 --> 00:06:25,156 Living in a van is great but, you know, at a certain point it'd be nice to have a 68 00:06:25,158 --> 00:06:28,695 bathroom and have, like, a shower at least. 69 00:06:35,502 --> 00:06:37,235 So you have a girlfriend now, I heard. 70 00:06:37,237 --> 00:06:39,504 - Hmm, trending towards one. - Trending towards? 71 00:06:39,506 --> 00:06:44,278 Hmm, I mean, she's very supportive about, like, you know, you have to do you. 72 00:06:44,845 --> 00:06:46,278 Yeah we'll, we'll see. 73 00:06:46,280 --> 00:06:49,882 But yeah, there probably will be plenty of girlfriends in my life, 74 00:06:49,884 --> 00:06:52,417 you know, in terms of, like, big climbing, 75 00:06:52,419 --> 00:06:55,853 lifetime achievement deals, where you're just like, well, 76 00:06:55,855 --> 00:06:59,658 like I will always choose climbing, over, over a lady. 77 00:06:59,660 --> 00:07:01,862 At least, you know, so far. 78 00:07:04,532 --> 00:07:06,865 How many times have you climbed El Cap? 79 00:07:06,867 --> 00:07:08,367 Probably like 40 something maybe. 80 00:07:08,369 --> 00:07:13,504 - You ever free solo? -No and nobody has. - Why haven't you done it yet? 81 00:07:13,506 --> 00:07:16,845 Um, look at it, like, I mean, you know, think about it, it's freaking scary. 82 00:07:17,778 --> 00:07:21,879 I don't know, so I mean I've thought about this since 2009, like, each year since 2009, 83 00:07:21,881 --> 00:07:24,449 I've been like, "This is the year," and each year I climb it and I'm like, 84 00:07:24,451 --> 00:07:27,218 "This isn't the year, like, this is fucked," you know. 85 00:07:27,220 --> 00:07:29,721 So I'm like, "Uh." But the thing is I'll never be content, 86 00:07:29,723 --> 00:07:31,288 unless I at least put in the effort. 87 00:07:31,290 --> 00:07:33,925 Because, like, if I do all the work and I'm still like, "This is messed up," 88 00:07:33,927 --> 00:07:37,528 then maybe it's just not for me, maybe its future generation, you know. 89 00:07:37,530 --> 00:07:40,667 Or maybe just somebody who has nothing to live for. 90 00:07:50,877 --> 00:07:54,681 When I thought about El Cap years ago, there were question marks all over the walls. 91 00:07:55,482 --> 00:07:57,815 It's like I don't know about this pitch, I don't know about that pitch, 92 00:07:57,817 --> 00:08:00,451 like I don't know about this particular slab, there are all these things that 93 00:08:00,453 --> 00:08:03,655 seem pretty crazy to me. 94 00:08:03,657 --> 00:08:09,595 If the ultimate dream is to solo El Cap, then I need a good map of what that will 95 00:08:09,597 --> 00:08:14,699 take, you know, like a, a mental image of what the hard parts are, where they are, 96 00:08:14,701 --> 00:08:17,605 what they will entail. 97 00:08:18,105 --> 00:08:21,509 If I'm going to do it, Free Rider seems like the best route. 98 00:08:26,679 --> 00:08:27,913 Oh, hi. 99 00:08:27,915 --> 00:08:29,781 What's up, dude? 100 00:08:29,783 --> 00:08:31,749 Oh, hey. 101 00:08:31,751 --> 00:08:34,689 Oh, actually, I might as well just rack it straight onto my harness. 102 00:08:35,256 --> 00:08:36,889 So, do you wanna lead the Freeblast or do I? 103 00:08:36,891 --> 00:08:41,025 I feel like we should do what we did before which would be you lead the, yeah, 104 00:08:41,027 --> 00:08:43,327 you lead the Freeblast. 105 00:08:43,329 --> 00:08:45,429 So, basically I'll just try to take it, like, as far as I can. 106 00:08:45,431 --> 00:08:47,434 Yeah. 107 00:08:52,006 --> 00:08:54,806 So Tommy just got here and they're going up Freerider. 108 00:08:54,808 --> 00:08:56,207 Okay. 109 00:08:56,209 --> 00:08:59,443 I'm just gonna try to shoot this pitch and the traverse pitch and then 110 00:08:59,445 --> 00:09:01,548 I'm gonna jug out like a maniac. 111 00:09:01,915 --> 00:09:02,913 Okay. 112 00:09:02,915 --> 00:09:04,749 Do we have enough line up there to do all this? 113 00:09:04,751 --> 00:09:06,987 - Yeah. - Okay. 114 00:09:15,828 --> 00:09:18,363 The idea of going up on El Cap with Tommy Caldwell 115 00:09:18,365 --> 00:09:21,269 is to get a feel for the route and just visualize it. 116 00:09:21,501 --> 00:09:24,036 To see what feels scary and what doesn't. 117 00:09:24,038 --> 00:09:26,071 Oh, God. 118 00:09:26,073 --> 00:09:29,674 Look at those fixed ropes the first climb. 119 00:09:32,378 --> 00:09:35,647 Tommy's been a hero of mine since I was a kid. 120 00:09:35,649 --> 00:09:37,948 I didn't technically have posters of him up in my room as a kid, 121 00:09:37,950 --> 00:09:40,854 but it was like the same deal, you know, where I was like, "Tommy's the man." 122 00:09:43,790 --> 00:09:47,328 Tommy really showed what was possible, free climbing on El Cap. 123 00:09:48,027 --> 00:09:51,462 Tommy is the one that explored every aspect of the wall. 124 00:09:51,464 --> 00:09:54,765 And most of the routes that he's put up on El Cap haven't been repeated because they're, 125 00:09:54,767 --> 00:09:57,437 they're basically too hard. 126 00:09:58,372 --> 00:10:01,472 And then, ultimately culminated with the Dawn Wall which was his 127 00:10:01,474 --> 00:10:03,607 multi-year project. 128 00:10:03,609 --> 00:10:06,780 I mean possibly the hardest big wall in the world. 129 00:10:16,990 --> 00:10:19,527 I've been obsessed with El Cap for years. 130 00:10:21,561 --> 00:10:25,532 El Capitan is unbelievably huge, kind of unfathomably huge. 131 00:10:27,367 --> 00:10:30,501 It's 3,200 feet of sheer granite. 132 00:10:30,503 --> 00:10:32,671 Looking at it, it doesn't seem right, it doesn't seem like you 133 00:10:32,673 --> 00:10:36,077 should be able to climb it. 134 00:10:37,144 --> 00:10:39,745 I understand why Alex is obsessed. 135 00:10:39,747 --> 00:10:42,883 El Cap has obsessed generations of climbers. 136 00:10:43,117 --> 00:10:48,153 I think it was first climbed in 1958 by Warren Harding, and it took them 46 days 137 00:10:48,155 --> 00:10:51,425 over 16 months because they couldn't do it continuously. 138 00:10:56,463 --> 00:10:59,900 They had to drill bolts into the granite and pull themselves up. 139 00:11:00,101 --> 00:11:04,472 And then ever since then, it's been the center of the rock climbing universe. 140 00:11:09,443 --> 00:11:12,947 I've spent 20 years of my life climbing El Cap but I'd never do it without a rope. 141 00:11:14,147 --> 00:11:16,783 There's no margin for error. 142 00:11:16,983 --> 00:11:23,090 Imagine an Olympic gold medal level athletic achievement, that if you don't get that 143 00:11:24,690 --> 00:11:26,825 gold medal you're gonna die. 144 00:11:26,827 --> 00:11:30,128 That's pretty much what free soloing El Cap is like. 145 00:11:30,130 --> 00:11:33,668 You have to do it perfectly. 146 00:11:37,203 --> 00:11:40,905 Today I am playing through a lot of different scenarios, 147 00:11:40,907 --> 00:11:44,010 so thinking about the moves, thinking about the body position, 148 00:11:45,078 --> 00:11:48,580 and more than anything just thinking about what it would feel like to, 149 00:11:48,582 --> 00:11:51,753 to be in that position without a rope. 150 00:11:52,853 --> 00:11:55,586 There are a lot of things that you can physically do on a rope. 151 00:11:55,588 --> 00:11:56,922 Oh, God. 152 00:11:56,924 --> 00:11:59,124 But then the idea of taking the rope away, you're just like, 153 00:11:59,126 --> 00:12:01,725 "I don't know if I'd wanna trust that little foothold. Oh, my God, 154 00:12:01,727 --> 00:12:05,897 my feet hurt so bad and I'm so pumped and my hand hurts. 155 00:12:05,899 --> 00:12:07,566 I just feel pooped. 156 00:12:07,568 --> 00:12:10,170 We're kind of getting worked. 157 00:12:11,104 --> 00:12:14,105 When you've been thinking about something for years, that's a long time to be, 158 00:12:14,107 --> 00:12:18,045 like, sort of considering an idea without, like, really talking to anybody about it. 159 00:12:18,477 --> 00:12:21,716 Especially someone like Tommy. 160 00:12:22,282 --> 00:12:25,049 When I was climbing, like, up the endurance corner and across the traverse, 161 00:12:25,051 --> 00:12:28,486 I was just looking down thinking about, I was like, "Dude, this seems so scary." 162 00:12:28,488 --> 00:12:29,621 I don't know. 163 00:12:29,623 --> 00:12:31,222 That part is just so exposed and it's pretty. 164 00:12:31,224 --> 00:12:33,258 See, that part again is like, at least you have holds though, you know. 165 00:12:33,260 --> 00:12:34,592 Yeah. 166 00:12:34,594 --> 00:12:37,796 The Freeblast slabs have like several moves where it's like, 167 00:12:37,798 --> 00:12:40,231 your whole life just depends on one foothold, you know. 168 00:12:40,233 --> 00:12:43,168 Soloing is like such a weird personal activity. 169 00:12:43,170 --> 00:12:45,102 You never talk about soloing projects. 170 00:12:45,104 --> 00:12:48,773 I mean, I've done all my soloing without telling anybody, 171 00:12:48,775 --> 00:12:52,878 because I don't want any extra pressure. 172 00:12:52,880 --> 00:12:56,147 The idea of climbing El Cap, obviously I get interview questions about it all the 173 00:12:56,149 --> 00:12:57,883 time, like, "Oh, would you like to do that?" 174 00:12:57,885 --> 00:12:58,984 And I've always been like, 175 00:12:58,986 --> 00:13:01,086 "No, well maybe, we'll see. You know, who knows?" 176 00:13:01,088 --> 00:13:04,125 But like in the back of your mind you're like, "Yes, for sure." 177 00:13:13,032 --> 00:13:16,033 I used to be like a super picky eater. 178 00:13:16,035 --> 00:13:21,476 When I was like 19 or 20 or, well, between like, 20 and 24, I basically decided that I had 179 00:13:22,075 --> 00:13:25,043 to start eating vegetables, and then sort of, like, systematically introduced 180 00:13:25,045 --> 00:13:29,217 myself to vegetables, like one at a time, which worked pretty well, 181 00:13:30,583 --> 00:13:32,786 now I pretty much eat anything. 182 00:13:37,757 --> 00:13:40,926 I stopped eating meat maybe three or four years ago, um, 183 00:13:40,928 --> 00:13:43,028 mostly for environmental reasons. 184 00:13:43,030 --> 00:13:46,601 Then once I stopped I also kind of got into the ethics of it a little bit more. 185 00:13:51,137 --> 00:13:53,971 We'll just see how this comes out. 186 00:13:53,973 --> 00:13:56,575 Yeah, I mean there are plenty of folks who probably think that this is, like, terrible. 187 00:13:56,577 --> 00:14:00,081 I'm eating, like, canned chili and eggs. 188 00:14:02,848 --> 00:14:05,182 Growing up, I mean, I didn't like eating weird foods, 189 00:14:05,184 --> 00:14:08,919 I didn't like bugs, you know, I was just like a total tweeker. 190 00:14:08,921 --> 00:14:11,791 I guess I was quite a shy child. 191 00:14:12,693 --> 00:14:14,793 Bit of a dark soul, I think. 192 00:14:14,795 --> 00:14:17,531 Maybe melancholic is the word. 193 00:14:17,865 --> 00:14:22,667 I remember really liking to play with my Legos and play computer games and, 194 00:14:22,669 --> 00:14:25,669 uh, and then obviously once I started rock climbing I was going to the 195 00:14:25,671 --> 00:14:27,605 climbing gym all the time. 196 00:14:27,607 --> 00:14:31,176 But I didn't really have a whole lot of hobbies or interests. 197 00:14:31,178 --> 00:14:33,845 I definitely wasn't cool, you know. 198 00:14:33,847 --> 00:14:36,615 I grew up in Sacramento and the high school I went to, I was, uh, 199 00:14:36,617 --> 00:14:39,717 in an international baccalaureate program, so we were all sort of 200 00:14:39,719 --> 00:14:41,919 the intellectual kids. 201 00:14:41,921 --> 00:14:45,222 So, in a way it was fine to be sort of a dorky loner cause, you know, 202 00:14:45,224 --> 00:14:48,161 the whole program was focused around that. 203 00:14:48,962 --> 00:14:52,163 There was definitely a time when I started climbing outside more and I was just 204 00:14:52,165 --> 00:14:54,264 starting to road trip and go to campgrounds, 205 00:14:54,266 --> 00:14:56,868 but I was too afraid to talk to strangers. 206 00:14:56,870 --> 00:15:00,004 So, I was doing a lot of soloing, or just a lot of climbing by myself just 207 00:15:00,006 --> 00:15:03,343 because I didn't know anybody and I didn't wanna talk to anybody. 208 00:15:04,745 --> 00:15:07,214 It's freaking good, I've outdone myself. 209 00:15:10,784 --> 00:15:13,588 Spicy chili really adds something. 210 00:15:20,026 --> 00:15:22,894 As a kid I just love climbing trees and climbing buildings and, like, 211 00:15:22,896 --> 00:15:24,696 playing on things. 212 00:15:24,698 --> 00:15:27,268 And when I was going to school here I was also climbing on all the roofs and stuff here. 213 00:15:27,501 --> 00:15:29,668 Uh, and, uh, yeah. 214 00:15:29,670 --> 00:15:32,003 It's actually kind of intimidating talking to groups of kids. 215 00:15:32,005 --> 00:15:34,938 Like, when I was in high school I was mortified of standing in 216 00:15:34,940 --> 00:15:36,407 front of the class. 217 00:15:36,409 --> 00:15:38,308 But, like, you kind of get through it and, like, eventually you feel 218 00:15:38,310 --> 00:15:39,744 more and more comfortable. 219 00:15:39,746 --> 00:15:41,012 I don't know. 220 00:15:41,014 --> 00:15:42,813 - There's a question. - Um, yeah. 221 00:15:42,815 --> 00:15:45,049 How do you feel about being famous, just for, like, 222 00:15:45,051 --> 00:15:46,652 turning your hobby into your career? 223 00:15:46,654 --> 00:15:49,788 I mean, I think it's the best thing in life to be able to take the one thing 224 00:15:49,790 --> 00:15:52,923 you love most and have it, like, work out that you can make a living that way. 225 00:15:52,925 --> 00:15:55,159 You know, so it's nice that I now get paid to do that, yeah. 226 00:15:55,161 --> 00:15:57,364 How much money do you have? 227 00:15:59,900 --> 00:16:03,136 I've got, I've got, I've got probably like 40 bucks in my wallet, you know. 228 00:16:03,837 --> 00:16:05,937 Um, but no, like, a, a fair amount. 229 00:16:05,939 --> 00:16:11,142 Um, like, like, you know, say, like, a moderately successful dentist 230 00:16:11,144 --> 00:16:13,314 or something, probably. 231 00:16:13,579 --> 00:16:15,212 Mr. K? 232 00:16:15,214 --> 00:16:17,948 Alex, could you talk about your foundation a bit and what you're doing? 233 00:16:17,950 --> 00:16:21,354 Yeah, so, I started a non-profit, um, I guess maybe four years ago. 234 00:16:21,722 --> 00:16:24,958 Let's watch this piece of video so you're gonna get a little taste of that. 235 00:16:26,727 --> 00:16:30,260 Climbing has allowed me to travel all over the world, which has really opened my 236 00:16:30,262 --> 00:16:32,432 eyes to how the rest of the world lives. 237 00:16:33,132 --> 00:16:35,899 I mean, I see all these people, I mean they're like a billion people on Earth 238 00:16:35,901 --> 00:16:37,268 without access to power. 239 00:16:37,270 --> 00:16:39,403 And so I started my foundation sort of as an attempt to, like, 240 00:16:39,405 --> 00:16:41,005 balance the cosmic scales. 241 00:16:41,007 --> 00:16:44,908 So, I've been giving, maybe, like, a third of my income every year through the 242 00:16:44,910 --> 00:16:46,911 foundation to, like, environmental non-profits. 243 00:16:46,913 --> 00:16:49,080 I mean, so, like off-grid solar projects, things like that, like, 244 00:16:49,082 --> 00:16:52,352 things that lift people out of poverty, but also help the Earth. 245 00:17:07,367 --> 00:17:09,099 Ah, you get out. 246 00:17:09,101 --> 00:17:11,705 - Oh, hi. - Hi. 247 00:17:15,407 --> 00:17:17,944 I met Sanni, book touring in Seattle. 248 00:17:18,511 --> 00:17:21,982 And then we just have been hanging out ever since. 249 00:17:22,182 --> 00:17:25,150 I think, I think this is our very first date in Las Vegas, and I think we're climbing, 250 00:17:25,152 --> 00:17:27,251 like, a very easy multi-pitch together. 251 00:17:27,253 --> 00:17:30,288 Um, you know I just took her up this big tall route because then, 252 00:17:30,290 --> 00:17:32,524 I kind of knew it would blow her mind. 253 00:17:32,526 --> 00:17:33,525 Is she a climber? 254 00:17:33,527 --> 00:17:36,795 Um, Sanni's like a little bit of a climber. 255 00:17:36,797 --> 00:17:41,102 She, she's just starting but I'd hardly characterize her as a climber. 256 00:17:42,403 --> 00:17:45,569 You see straight in front of us, there's like an depression that looks like a heart. 257 00:17:45,571 --> 00:17:46,505 Yeah. 258 00:17:46,507 --> 00:17:49,007 To the left of that, that's Freerider. 259 00:17:49,009 --> 00:17:51,542 This is like the whole valley, like, we're driving in this highway. 260 00:17:51,544 --> 00:17:52,845 Uh-hmm. 261 00:17:52,847 --> 00:17:53,979 And then this is, like, the valley loop from here to here, 262 00:17:53,981 --> 00:17:56,314 the main rocks are all, like, between here and here. 263 00:17:56,316 --> 00:17:59,453 Okay, oh, maybe I should read this. 264 00:18:00,287 --> 00:18:02,423 No. 265 00:18:02,655 --> 00:18:06,059 Alex was giving a talk in Seattle, in December last year. 266 00:18:06,292 --> 00:18:09,193 I didn't know anything about him and I showed up. 267 00:18:09,195 --> 00:18:11,296 Wait, you're wearing the same shirt in half these photos. 268 00:18:11,298 --> 00:18:12,462 I know. 269 00:18:12,464 --> 00:18:13,964 Oh, Alex. 270 00:18:13,966 --> 00:18:16,233 Well, because I don't have anybody to help me with my wardrobe. 271 00:18:16,235 --> 00:18:20,473 Oh and then, when I got my book signed, I gave him my number. 272 00:18:24,010 --> 00:18:27,280 Which was sort of a joke with a friend but then evolved. 273 00:18:28,115 --> 00:18:33,017 I just thought he was really cute but also brutally honest, 274 00:18:33,019 --> 00:18:35,185 but I'm really drawn to that. 275 00:18:35,187 --> 00:18:37,555 Whoa, look how precariously balanced it is. 276 00:18:37,557 --> 00:18:40,057 But he's also just a funny guy, he's weird. 277 00:18:40,059 --> 00:18:43,129 You know, a weird dude, and I find it interesting. 278 00:18:43,730 --> 00:18:45,496 Oh, we tree pose on the tree? 279 00:18:45,498 --> 00:18:46,696 It's not wobbling. 280 00:18:46,698 --> 00:18:49,267 It's totally wobbling, what are you talking about. 281 00:18:49,269 --> 00:18:51,402 Just for you. 282 00:18:51,404 --> 00:18:54,407 - I'm waiting. Oh. - Okay. 283 00:18:59,078 --> 00:19:00,545 When you start getting eaten by mosquitoes, 284 00:19:00,547 --> 00:19:02,247 feel free to just start climbing. 285 00:19:02,249 --> 00:19:04,315 Just keep the Grigri on. 286 00:19:04,317 --> 00:19:06,084 I'll wait. 287 00:19:06,086 --> 00:19:08,588 Okay, whatever you're comfy with. 288 00:19:11,124 --> 00:19:13,223 Having the girlfriend in the van is awesome. 289 00:19:13,225 --> 00:19:17,095 I mean, she's cute and small and, like, livens the place up a bit, 290 00:19:17,097 --> 00:19:19,430 doesn't take up too much room. 291 00:19:19,432 --> 00:19:23,037 I mean, it's, pretty much makes life better in every way. 292 00:19:25,171 --> 00:19:28,075 Alex, you got me tight? 293 00:19:30,277 --> 00:19:33,080 This is nerve-racking. 294 00:19:40,686 --> 00:19:46,391 When I was lowering Alex, I was watching him come down the final section and the rope 295 00:19:46,393 --> 00:19:48,259 went right through the Grigri, right through my hands, 296 00:19:48,261 --> 00:19:51,296 and right through the Grigri and he dropped to the ground. 297 00:19:51,298 --> 00:19:53,634 It was my fault that I didn't watch the end of the rope. 298 00:19:54,568 --> 00:19:58,137 It was just like, "Oh, my gosh, what have I done?" 299 00:19:59,739 --> 00:20:02,573 The x-ray didn't show much, but then they took the CAT scan and then they 300 00:20:02,575 --> 00:20:04,509 said it was, like, two compression fractures and. 301 00:20:04,511 --> 00:20:06,644 But they only focused on they didn't focus on the lower. 302 00:20:06,646 --> 00:20:10,584 Right after it happened I wanted to break up with her. 303 00:20:10,783 --> 00:20:14,952 I was like, "Oh, this is bad for my climbing." But she said, 304 00:20:14,954 --> 00:20:17,355 "Is that really gonna make your life any better?" 305 00:20:17,357 --> 00:20:19,958 I was like, "No, probably not." 306 00:20:19,960 --> 00:20:23,497 This is gonna feel a little uncomfortable. 307 00:20:23,930 --> 00:20:25,329 I said, you know, 308 00:20:25,331 --> 00:20:28,432 "I think we can move past this and I think you could have it all. 309 00:20:28,434 --> 00:20:32,373 I think that you could have a steady girlfriend and climb." 310 00:20:33,272 --> 00:20:35,440 Exhale. 311 00:20:35,442 --> 00:20:38,476 As it turns out, compression fracture isn't too serious. 312 00:20:38,478 --> 00:20:41,346 They said that I could climb and just be careful about pain management and 313 00:20:41,348 --> 00:20:44,318 all that stuff. 314 00:20:44,518 --> 00:20:47,352 But it's just a little bit rattling. 315 00:20:47,354 --> 00:20:50,387 Because I definitely know some people who have fallen super far and survived or, 316 00:20:50,389 --> 00:20:53,057 like, gone through a tree and sort of been okay. 317 00:20:53,059 --> 00:20:56,728 And now I'm like, "I don't know, like, I don't think I'd be okay." 318 00:20:56,730 --> 00:21:00,397 And so I imagine falling free soloing or something from 50 meters up, I mean, 319 00:21:00,399 --> 00:21:03,169 I realize that my body would just explode on impact. 320 00:21:20,286 --> 00:21:23,453 In 2012, I was here for the first time and it was right before I went to 321 00:21:23,455 --> 00:21:27,293 Yosemite for the season, and that was like my best Yosemite season ever. 322 00:21:39,172 --> 00:21:40,704 What was that, Alex? 323 00:21:40,706 --> 00:21:42,707 I said you just passed halfway and, uh, the rope's actually looking 324 00:21:42,709 --> 00:21:45,512 pretty good now. 325 00:21:46,546 --> 00:21:49,480 Yeah, pretty nice rock. 326 00:21:49,482 --> 00:21:52,987 I think the climbing here in Morocco, it's good training for El Cap. 327 00:21:54,722 --> 00:21:58,288 It's gonna make him strong, it's gonna get him good at moving through the mountains, 328 00:21:58,290 --> 00:22:01,227 it's gonna make him feel fit. 329 00:22:07,133 --> 00:22:11,505 Flowing through the mountains in the ways that you do with Alex is addicting. 330 00:22:15,175 --> 00:22:19,579 His attitude towards risk, it makes you feel kind of invincible, 331 00:22:23,782 --> 00:22:29,423 which is emotionally appealing, but for me I don't think it's the smartest thing. 332 00:22:33,092 --> 00:22:34,592 Ah! 333 00:22:34,594 --> 00:22:38,232 Climbing with Alex is, it's like a vice in a way. 334 00:22:39,299 --> 00:22:42,467 It's like smoking cigarettes with beer or something. 335 00:22:42,469 --> 00:22:45,635 It's like, I don't really wanna do it but I just, like, let myself do it sometimes 336 00:22:45,637 --> 00:22:46,837 because it's kinda nice. 337 00:22:46,839 --> 00:22:50,343 - Yeah, buddy! - Yo! 338 00:22:56,281 --> 00:22:59,249 Can you read me your journal entry for today? 339 00:22:59,251 --> 00:23:02,755 It says, "Bey wall 7C+, one fallen crux, two pumped, need more fitness." 340 00:23:05,558 --> 00:23:09,460 Do you ever put things like "Saw the biggest juniper tree of my life"? 341 00:23:09,462 --> 00:23:11,695 No, not in the climbing journal. 342 00:23:11,697 --> 00:23:15,266 - Miss my dog. - No. 343 00:23:15,268 --> 00:23:17,300 - And my mom. - I don't know, none? 344 00:23:17,302 --> 00:23:19,806 - No, no. - No. -All right. 345 00:23:32,251 --> 00:23:36,520 Alright, Jim's gonna follow you guys down partway, Clair's gonna pick you guys up at 346 00:23:36,522 --> 00:23:38,455 the bottom of the gully going into the base. 347 00:23:38,457 --> 00:23:39,891 Okay. 348 00:23:39,893 --> 00:23:42,425 And then we'll be shooting on the wall. 349 00:23:42,427 --> 00:23:45,529 So, once we pass you guys, you guys wrap and then hike to the summit basically? 350 00:23:45,531 --> 00:23:46,664 Yeah. 351 00:23:46,666 --> 00:23:49,400 Jimmy and I have worked together for 10 years. 352 00:23:49,402 --> 00:23:51,402 We've climbed all over the world. 353 00:23:51,404 --> 00:23:53,471 We are doing the triple link up too, right? 354 00:23:53,473 --> 00:23:55,539 I mean, by the time we get to Yosemite we're gonna be 355 00:23:55,541 --> 00:23:57,845 as Cheyne says, "Yoked." 356 00:24:01,614 --> 00:24:04,649 The team that Jimmy assembled are all professional climbers. 357 00:24:04,651 --> 00:24:07,354 The best possible crew for this kind of thing. 358 00:24:07,654 --> 00:24:09,586 And so in a way, I'm like, "This is kinda awesome." You know, 359 00:24:09,588 --> 00:24:13,126 it's kind of just like I get to go climb with all my friends. 360 00:24:16,930 --> 00:24:20,565 Mikey, we should put someone right here because if you lean out you can see the 361 00:24:20,567 --> 00:24:22,432 entire freaking route. 362 00:24:22,434 --> 00:24:24,868 Then let's just put the 100 meter there and the 400 footer here. 363 00:24:24,870 --> 00:24:26,772 Doubled up. 364 00:24:27,173 --> 00:24:32,445 I've known Alex since he pretty much started climbing in Yosemite, 2008 or 2009. 365 00:24:33,245 --> 00:24:37,882 I've filmed Alex a handful of times, free soloing. 366 00:24:37,884 --> 00:24:41,352 And then we've also spent a couple of winters together down in South America. 367 00:24:41,354 --> 00:24:43,921 So, uh, we, the time's added up. 368 00:24:43,923 --> 00:24:46,356 Uh, I spend a lot of time with him now. 369 00:24:46,358 --> 00:24:50,528 So, I'm scared because I don't wanna see anything happen to Alex. 370 00:24:50,530 --> 00:24:53,297 I mean, it's one of the reasons that I almost said no to this job, and, I mean, 371 00:24:53,299 --> 00:24:55,599 I think Jimmy went through the same stuff of being like, 372 00:24:55,601 --> 00:24:58,271 "Do we really wanna be part of this?" 373 00:24:59,606 --> 00:25:02,472 I've always been conflicted about shooting a film about free soloing 374 00:25:02,474 --> 00:25:05,776 just because it's so dangerous. 375 00:25:05,778 --> 00:25:10,981 It's hard to not imagine, your friend, Alex, soloing something that's extremely 376 00:25:10,983 --> 00:25:15,422 dangerous and you're making a film about it, which might put undue pressure on him 377 00:25:15,922 --> 00:25:19,793 to do something, and him falling through the frame to his death. 378 00:25:24,530 --> 00:25:30,734 And we have to work through that and understand that what we're doing is something that 379 00:25:30,736 --> 00:25:32,939 we can live with even in a worst-case scenario. 380 00:25:40,280 --> 00:25:43,381 It's a funny thing, people who know a little bit about climbing, they're like, 381 00:25:43,383 --> 00:25:46,483 "Oh, he says he has it, he's, he's totally safe." 382 00:25:46,485 --> 00:25:50,957 And then people who really know exactly what he's doing are freaked out. 383 00:25:51,325 --> 00:25:54,325 My dad was always like, "I don't want you to go ice climbing. 384 00:25:54,327 --> 00:25:57,364 I don't want you to free solo," you know. 385 00:25:57,797 --> 00:25:59,262 Just not, I wonder if your dad had been like. 386 00:25:59,264 --> 00:26:02,566 When he was my age, he had had like 20 or 30 friends that had 387 00:26:02,568 --> 00:26:04,000 died in the mountains. 388 00:26:04,002 --> 00:26:06,604 And now I'm at that point where I've had, you know, 30 or 40 friends 389 00:26:06,606 --> 00:26:08,338 that have died in the mountains. 390 00:26:08,340 --> 00:26:09,874 That many? 391 00:26:09,876 --> 00:26:11,474 Yeah, I counted them a while ago. 392 00:26:11,476 --> 00:26:13,042 I mean, like not friends but people in our community. 393 00:26:13,044 --> 00:26:16,446 Yeah, people, yeah, yeah, totally, like Kyle Dempster and Scott recently. 394 00:26:16,448 --> 00:26:18,749 People that I have met, yeah, I'm like, no, yeah. 395 00:26:18,751 --> 00:26:21,585 I haven't had anybody die who I was, like, really, really, close to yet. 396 00:26:21,587 --> 00:26:25,259 Uh-hmm. Uh-hmm. I don't know. 397 00:26:25,791 --> 00:26:30,627 I think everybody who has made free soloing a big part of their life, 398 00:26:30,629 --> 00:26:32,665 is dead now. 399 00:26:33,465 --> 00:26:36,869 John Bachar was a pioneer of so-called free solo climbing, 400 00:26:37,236 --> 00:26:41,571 he fell to his death this past week at the age of 52 from a cliff. 401 00:26:41,573 --> 00:26:43,641 And we're sorry to have to report on the death of 402 00:26:43,643 --> 00:26:45,976 U.S. Climber Sean Leary. 403 00:26:45,978 --> 00:26:49,113 Sean was killed in Utah and was found a couple of days ago. 404 00:26:49,115 --> 00:26:51,816 Derek Hersey was climbing in Yosemite Valley. 405 00:26:51,818 --> 00:26:54,354 His body was found Saturday morning. 406 00:26:54,686 --> 00:26:57,988 Hersey climbed, as usual, alone without ropes. 407 00:26:57,990 --> 00:26:59,990 Most people that are pushing the limits, 408 00:26:59,992 --> 00:27:04,463 they have this mentality of "Screw it, whatever happens, happens." 409 00:27:27,419 --> 00:27:31,023 I think all the soloing he's done has trained his mind. 410 00:27:31,257 --> 00:27:35,629 He doesn't get emotionally affected by it the way that a lot of people do. 411 00:27:36,396 --> 00:27:39,163 And not knowing about the science of that is that's probably a product 412 00:27:39,165 --> 00:27:43,069 of your past more than it is just a genetic thing. 413 00:27:45,937 --> 00:27:48,873 There's been a lot of speculation about, like, how I deal with fear and, 414 00:27:48,875 --> 00:27:51,040 like, how I'm able to free solo. 415 00:27:51,042 --> 00:27:53,877 People are just like, "Oh, well, he must be a thrill seeker. 416 00:27:53,879 --> 00:27:56,582 There must be something defective." 417 00:27:59,786 --> 00:28:01,152 So when a writer contacted me about doing an 418 00:28:01,154 --> 00:28:05,588 MRI, I thought it's kind of cool just to go and get an MRI and, like, 419 00:28:05,590 --> 00:28:07,090 see what's actually going on. 420 00:28:07,092 --> 00:28:10,529 You know, scan your brain and then see if it's all there structurally. 421 00:28:13,566 --> 00:28:15,165 We're gonna start the task now. 422 00:28:15,167 --> 00:28:19,002 Remember to press the button every time you see a new picture come up, okay? 423 00:28:19,004 --> 00:28:20,873 Okay. 424 00:28:23,475 --> 00:28:26,676 We'll see maybe it turns out I'm some kind of freak creature or something. 425 00:28:26,678 --> 00:28:29,046 I've had several ex-girlfriends said that I have personality 426 00:28:29,048 --> 00:28:30,980 disorders or things like that. 427 00:28:30,982 --> 00:28:32,782 That there's something wrong with me. 428 00:28:32,784 --> 00:28:34,884 Emotionally stable? 429 00:28:34,886 --> 00:28:36,186 Agree. 430 00:28:36,188 --> 00:28:38,689 Ingenious, a deep thinker? 431 00:28:38,691 --> 00:28:40,524 Disagree. 432 00:28:40,526 --> 00:28:41,925 Tends to find fault with others? 433 00:28:41,927 --> 00:28:43,727 Agree somewhat. 434 00:28:43,729 --> 00:28:46,497 Climbing a steep mountain would be too scary for me? 435 00:28:46,499 --> 00:28:48,665 I have trouble controlling my impulses? 436 00:28:48,667 --> 00:28:51,734 Is depressed? 437 00:28:51,736 --> 00:28:54,940 Hmm. 438 00:28:55,508 --> 00:28:57,540 Is my, is my brain intact? 439 00:28:57,542 --> 00:29:00,076 Your brain's intact and it's, it's quite interesting. 440 00:29:00,078 --> 00:29:03,980 Those little two dots that are further towards the top of the screen, 441 00:29:03,982 --> 00:29:06,520 that's the amygdala. 442 00:29:07,953 --> 00:29:13,156 So an interesting thing, do you have no activation in your amygdala? 443 00:29:13,158 --> 00:29:16,061 There's just not much going on in my brain, it seems. 444 00:29:16,962 --> 00:29:20,564 Um, do you think my amygdala actually just doesn't work or something? 445 00:29:20,566 --> 00:29:25,439 Your amygdala works, it's just that it needs a much higher level of stimulation. 446 00:29:26,873 --> 00:29:31,275 Things that are typically stimulating for most of the rest of us are 447 00:29:31,277 --> 00:29:33,277 not really doing it for you. 448 00:29:33,279 --> 00:29:35,712 Maybe my amygdala's just tired, you know, 449 00:29:35,714 --> 00:29:38,819 from too many years of being all gripped. 450 00:30:07,178 --> 00:30:11,217 I'm feeling quite fit, but, um, there's such a mental component to free soloing. 451 00:30:12,385 --> 00:30:16,886 The big challenge is controlling your mind, I guess. 452 00:30:16,888 --> 00:30:19,289 Because you're not, you're not controlling your fear, you're sort of just trying 453 00:30:19,291 --> 00:30:22,127 to step outside of it. 454 00:30:24,696 --> 00:30:27,700 Oh, no, woo, sorry, Alex! 455 00:30:28,033 --> 00:30:31,201 And when people talk about trying to suppress your fear, I mean, 456 00:30:31,203 --> 00:30:33,804 I look at it in a different way. 457 00:30:33,806 --> 00:30:38,107 I try to expand my comfort zone by practicing the moves over and over again. 458 00:30:38,109 --> 00:30:41,247 I work through the fear, until it's just not scary anymore. 459 00:30:43,715 --> 00:30:45,214 Oh, no, no, no, no. 460 00:30:45,216 --> 00:30:48,554 Oh, so slippery. 461 00:30:48,820 --> 00:30:53,126 But, um, for years Freeblast has given me the heebie-jeebies. 462 00:30:54,159 --> 00:30:59,965 You're standing on tiny edges, small variations in the texture of the rock. 463 00:31:00,832 --> 00:31:04,634 If you slip, your hands can't hold you. 464 00:31:04,636 --> 00:31:08,806 It's just the two tiny points of contact that keep you from falling, and 465 00:31:08,808 --> 00:31:12,546 when you step up, there's only one. 466 00:31:12,944 --> 00:31:15,314 Oh. 467 00:31:23,254 --> 00:31:29,662 It's like, it looks so much better today than yesterday, but we'll see. 468 00:31:32,697 --> 00:31:35,999 I probably fell about 30 feet. 469 00:31:36,001 --> 00:31:40,304 We're up there, we're roped up, Sanni's belaying me, and then I just fell off, 470 00:31:40,306 --> 00:31:41,471 I don't know. 471 00:31:41,473 --> 00:31:44,173 I just, I don't even know how, I just, like, fell off. 472 00:31:44,175 --> 00:31:45,942 Show me how much you can go up and down on your own. 473 00:31:45,944 --> 00:31:48,945 It's, it's like, you know. 474 00:31:48,947 --> 00:31:51,214 I think this looks to me just like your straightforward ankle sprain. 475 00:31:51,216 --> 00:31:52,583 Okay. 476 00:31:52,585 --> 00:31:54,884 So, you know, we say ankle sprain, but more or less an ankle sprain 477 00:31:54,886 --> 00:31:56,019 is torn ligaments. 478 00:31:56,021 --> 00:31:57,422 - Yeah. - That's what it is. 479 00:31:57,424 --> 00:31:58,789 ...So what does that mean in terms of, uh, like hiking and stuff? 480 00:31:58,791 --> 00:32:02,092 I mean, if I just, like, immobilize it and then, uh, still just hike. 481 00:32:02,094 --> 00:32:04,127 Yeah, I mean, you gotta' get yourself through the first few days. 482 00:32:04,129 --> 00:32:05,363 Yeah. 483 00:32:05,365 --> 00:32:06,696 Um, but after that and it's just strengthening and rehab. 484 00:32:06,698 --> 00:32:09,666 Well, and actually, can I make it worse really, through activity? 485 00:32:09,668 --> 00:32:14,107 Um, you could probably do too much too soon. 486 00:32:21,379 --> 00:32:23,881 Wait, you don't need to keep that right. 487 00:32:23,883 --> 00:32:26,450 I can worry as much as I want internally, 488 00:32:26,452 --> 00:32:30,453 but if he doesn't do this stuff he'd regret it. 489 00:32:30,455 --> 00:32:35,259 If Alex and I got married and had kids, I would feel a lot more willing to say 490 00:32:35,261 --> 00:32:40,029 what I thought about what was acceptable risk or not. 491 00:32:40,031 --> 00:32:42,301 He should have put his shoe on. 492 00:32:45,171 --> 00:32:48,141 - Stubborn. - Stubborn. 493 00:32:55,280 --> 00:32:59,048 I thought you were, you know, walking and stuff now, I thought you're fine. 494 00:32:59,050 --> 00:33:00,351 Oh, I am, but what. 495 00:33:00,353 --> 00:33:02,786 Doctors said you were supposed to push it, Alex, come on. 496 00:33:02,788 --> 00:33:04,354 Don't you want some watermelon? 497 00:33:04,356 --> 00:33:07,490 Oh, well, good thing you have a personal slave to do that for you. 498 00:33:07,492 --> 00:33:09,859 Uh-huh, I know, I'm pretty stoked about that. 499 00:33:09,861 --> 00:33:12,762 All right, um, is it gonna be that no matter how I do this, you're like, 500 00:33:12,764 --> 00:33:14,298 "Why did you do it that way?" 501 00:33:14,300 --> 00:33:15,932 I just want watermelon. 502 00:33:15,934 --> 00:33:17,901 I kind of wanted to blame Sanni to some extent because 503 00:33:17,903 --> 00:33:19,336 you're just like, "Whatever." 504 00:33:19,338 --> 00:33:20,871 I haven't been injured in, like, seven years and then it's like I'm 505 00:33:20,873 --> 00:33:23,774 hanging out with this girl that doesn't climb and I suddenly start getting 506 00:33:23,776 --> 00:33:25,209 injured all the time. 507 00:33:25,211 --> 00:33:27,780 It's like you just cut down a tree. 508 00:33:36,355 --> 00:33:41,191 When they say "active recovery," no, that doesn't mean you're walking 509 00:33:41,193 --> 00:33:44,097 all over the place. 510 00:33:44,297 --> 00:33:48,233 I would be happy if he didn't free solo. 511 00:33:49,234 --> 00:33:53,804 I've always appreciated that he never told me beforehand that he was gonna 512 00:33:53,806 --> 00:33:55,772 free solo or anything. 513 00:33:55,774 --> 00:33:58,842 I could come down on him and say, "You shouldn't be doing that," 514 00:33:58,844 --> 00:34:01,878 and alienate him, and, uh, it would've alienated 515 00:34:01,880 --> 00:34:04,480 him because that's his, uh, whole life. 516 00:34:04,482 --> 00:34:07,984 I think when he's free soloing, that's when he feels the most alive, 517 00:34:07,986 --> 00:34:10,220 the most everything, the most. 518 00:34:10,222 --> 00:34:11,754 Feels the most. 519 00:34:11,756 --> 00:34:16,125 And how can you even think about taking that away from somebody, you know? 520 00:34:16,127 --> 00:34:18,198 I wouldn't. 521 00:34:28,274 --> 00:34:31,107 I've been able to stand on one foot while I put my harness and my shoes and 522 00:34:31,109 --> 00:34:34,347 stuff on, and getting' this like kind of, a minor victory. 523 00:34:36,582 --> 00:34:40,183 Um, I haven't put on my climbing shoe basically since I did it. 524 00:34:40,185 --> 00:34:43,222 So swollen. So tender. 525 00:34:47,258 --> 00:34:51,861 Unfortunately, crack climbing is all ankle-dependent. 526 00:34:51,863 --> 00:34:57,700 And Freerider is 3,000 feet of crack climbing. 527 00:34:57,702 --> 00:35:00,270 All my friends that have sprained their ankles in serious ways have 528 00:35:00,272 --> 00:35:05,411 all been like, "Oh, it's gonna be at least six months until it's normal." 529 00:35:06,111 --> 00:35:08,245 If I can't get this done in the next month 530 00:35:08,247 --> 00:35:12,085 then the weather will change and I'll have to wait until next year. 531 00:35:23,461 --> 00:35:26,897 You know, a couple years ago, I remember him telling me that he had never 532 00:35:26,899 --> 00:35:31,200 fallen unexpectedly in his life, and now I've seen it happen twice 533 00:35:31,202 --> 00:35:33,470 in the past, like, month. 534 00:35:33,472 --> 00:35:36,508 But when you hear stuff like that, you start to wonder a little bit. 535 00:35:37,776 --> 00:35:41,410 I had this dream the night before he called me that he had, like, 536 00:35:41,412 --> 00:35:44,413 wandered into our house and asked us, and, like, started crying, 537 00:35:44,415 --> 00:35:46,616 which really freaked me out 'cause Alex doesn't cry. 538 00:35:46,618 --> 00:35:50,354 And then he had told me that he fell free soloing and started, like, 539 00:35:50,356 --> 00:35:53,924 revealing all of his injuries, like he pulled up his sleeve on his arm, 540 00:35:53,926 --> 00:35:57,426 and in my dream a bone just, like, fell out of his arm and it was all messed up. 541 00:35:57,428 --> 00:36:02,265 And that, and it was this really, like, kind of vivid, but super freaky dream. 542 00:36:02,267 --> 00:36:06,205 And, uh, and then the next day he called me and told me he hurt himself. 543 00:36:07,171 --> 00:36:09,006 Hi, hi, Ingrid. 544 00:36:09,008 --> 00:36:11,174 Sometimes, one at a time. 545 00:36:11,176 --> 00:36:12,676 Hi, hello, how's it going? 546 00:36:12,678 --> 00:36:15,678 - Hi, guys. -What's up, Fitz! - So we got Fitz. 547 00:36:15,680 --> 00:36:18,048 - Hi, Tommy, hi, Fitz! - Are you gonna carve a pumpkin? 548 00:36:18,050 --> 00:36:19,950 Nice, that's good. 549 00:36:19,952 --> 00:36:21,517 That seems off. 550 00:36:23,254 --> 00:36:24,555 Eww. 551 00:36:24,557 --> 00:36:27,024 Alex said, "I want nothing to do with the pumpkin carving, 552 00:36:27,026 --> 00:36:28,625 and I won't carve anything and I hate holidays." 553 00:36:28,627 --> 00:36:30,394 I like having fun when I have fun. 554 00:36:30,396 --> 00:36:33,932 I don't like being told that it's time to have fun. 555 00:36:34,133 --> 00:36:37,203 Yeah, I think we need to a little more. 556 00:36:37,535 --> 00:36:38,634 Whoa, she's squirming. 557 00:36:38,636 --> 00:36:40,703 I don't know. Do you have a good grip on there? 558 00:36:40,705 --> 00:36:43,573 You put that in my eye again, I'm gonna drop you. 559 00:36:43,575 --> 00:36:46,042 Why does it not want to see us? 560 00:36:46,044 --> 00:36:47,144 Just kidding, I won't. 561 00:36:47,146 --> 00:36:48,645 He keeps. 562 00:36:48,647 --> 00:36:50,080 You gotta lift him up more, you need to. 563 00:36:50,082 --> 00:36:51,615 Bye, Tom. 564 00:36:51,617 --> 00:36:53,283 Oh man, you should have a lot of fear right now. 565 00:36:53,285 --> 00:36:55,151 Okay, 'cause' I feel a lot of anxiety. 566 00:36:55,153 --> 00:36:58,254 No one in any part of my family has hugged during all my formative years. 567 00:36:58,256 --> 00:37:01,625 I had to teach myself how to hug when I was, like, 23 or something. 568 00:37:01,627 --> 00:37:03,426 'Cause I was like, "Everyone seems to hug, 569 00:37:03,428 --> 00:37:05,028 that seems like something I should get into," 570 00:37:05,030 --> 00:37:07,263 and then I started, like, practicing. 571 00:37:07,265 --> 00:37:08,665 Now I'm quite a good hugger. 572 00:37:08,667 --> 00:37:10,200 Yes. 573 00:37:10,202 --> 00:37:11,600 You see that the pumpkin is a van? 574 00:37:11,602 --> 00:37:13,337 - I did see it. - That's a precious van. 575 00:37:13,339 --> 00:37:14,537 Is it a cat? 576 00:37:14,539 --> 00:37:16,305 - I did the cat. -That's good. - Look at that. 577 00:37:16,307 --> 00:37:17,975 Um, I did it all by my. 578 00:37:17,977 --> 00:37:19,343 Honestly, it does look good like this. 579 00:37:19,345 --> 00:37:21,144 It looked terrible. 580 00:37:21,146 --> 00:37:22,745 I think, yeah. 581 00:37:22,747 --> 00:37:26,082 Part of the thing with the L word, you know, is saying love and stuff, 582 00:37:26,084 --> 00:37:29,419 is that, like, in my entire life no one in any part of my family has ever used, 583 00:37:29,421 --> 00:37:31,524 you know, that word. 584 00:37:35,627 --> 00:37:38,294 My Mom has only spoken French to my sister and I our whole lives. 585 00:37:38,296 --> 00:37:41,031 She's a French teacher, so she says, "Je t'aime" or whatever, 586 00:37:41,033 --> 00:37:45,071 and then my dad didn't talk about anything. 587 00:37:45,370 --> 00:37:48,705 Nobody had an emotional bond with Charlie. 588 00:37:48,707 --> 00:37:52,345 Charlie was probably what we call nowadays Asperger's. 589 00:37:55,113 --> 00:37:57,747 Charlie's obsession, what everyone called monomania. 590 00:37:57,749 --> 00:37:59,549 He loved to travel. 591 00:37:59,551 --> 00:38:01,955 He lived to travel like Alex lives to climb. 592 00:38:02,821 --> 00:38:05,691 When he wasn't traveling, things were not good. 593 00:38:06,591 --> 00:38:09,558 Alex would do something and we'd call him stupid names, 594 00:38:09,560 --> 00:38:13,499 "Hey, bozo, don't do it like that," just demeaning things. 595 00:38:13,999 --> 00:38:18,067 If you learn that about your self-worth when you're this big, 596 00:38:18,069 --> 00:38:21,207 I don't think that goes away. 597 00:38:21,874 --> 00:38:25,444 I have no recollection of that. 598 00:38:25,812 --> 00:38:28,111 I don't think my dad put down anybody. 599 00:38:28,113 --> 00:38:32,452 I think my dad is like a teddy bear, but dad was pretty morose. 600 00:38:34,819 --> 00:38:37,421 And then the thing is once they got divorced, then they both were, like, 601 00:38:37,423 --> 00:38:40,593 so much happier and it all seemed great, but he died the next summer. 602 00:38:41,794 --> 00:38:46,729 It's really kind of too bad that he doesn't get to see how it all played out, 603 00:38:46,731 --> 00:38:51,003 'cause he put so much effort into nurturing my climbing. 604 00:38:53,539 --> 00:38:54,939 But who knows? 605 00:38:54,941 --> 00:38:58,774 Maybe mom thought that he was, like, holding us back or, like, you know, 606 00:38:58,776 --> 00:39:02,078 not pushing us to achieve our full potential or, like, whatever, 607 00:39:02,080 --> 00:39:04,216 you know what I mean? 608 00:39:04,517 --> 00:39:07,584 My Mom's favorite sayings are, "Presque ne compte pas," 609 00:39:07,586 --> 00:39:11,491 "Almost doesn't count," or, uh, "Good enough isn't." 610 00:39:11,857 --> 00:39:14,493 No matter how well I ever do at anything, it's not that good. 611 00:39:20,432 --> 00:39:23,636 The bottomless pit of self-loathing. 612 00:39:25,604 --> 00:39:30,410 I mean, that's definitely the motivation for some soloing. 613 00:39:40,218 --> 00:39:42,287 Here we are. 614 00:39:43,088 --> 00:39:45,187 So I still never, like, quietly, 615 00:39:45,189 --> 00:39:47,290 quite understand what happened when you fell, you, 616 00:39:47,292 --> 00:39:48,825 like, do you even know? 617 00:39:48,827 --> 00:39:50,359 It should be just kinda, like. 618 00:39:50,361 --> 00:39:52,428 Uh, I don't know why I fell off, but I mean I know that my skin was, 619 00:39:52,430 --> 00:39:53,663 like, hard and dry. 620 00:39:53,665 --> 00:39:54,865 It was like lightly raining kind of and like really windy. 621 00:39:54,867 --> 00:39:58,638 Weird he doesn't even say he knows what happened. 622 00:39:58,870 --> 00:40:02,305 He's like, "I, suddenly I was falling," which kind of surprised me because I feel 623 00:40:02,307 --> 00:40:04,808 like he's always so aware. 624 00:40:04,810 --> 00:40:07,713 Or like maybe he's not always totally aware. 625 00:40:08,580 --> 00:40:13,250 You know Alex talks about having this armor when he solos and I think as, like, 626 00:40:13,252 --> 00:40:16,622 a friend or a family member of him, you kinda have to have that same thing. 627 00:40:21,660 --> 00:40:25,865 Like after that happened, for whatever reason, it kinda like waked me up more than normal. 628 00:40:26,832 --> 00:40:29,165 You know, normally I'm just like, "Oh, he's got it. 629 00:40:29,167 --> 00:40:31,167 He's such, he's such a beast, you know, he's gonna be fine." 630 00:40:31,169 --> 00:40:37,140 But I just, like, 631 00:40:37,142 --> 00:40:41,446 am stressed out about the thing a little bit, you know? 632 00:40:45,350 --> 00:40:49,553 Look, I don't wanna fall off and die either, but there's a satisfaction to 633 00:40:49,555 --> 00:40:53,259 challenging yourself and doing something well. 634 00:40:53,993 --> 00:40:57,560 That feeling is heightened when you're for sure facing death. 635 00:40:57,562 --> 00:41:00,665 You can't make a mistake. 636 00:41:01,133 --> 00:41:06,435 If you're seeking perfection, free soloing is as close as you can get. 637 00:41:06,437 --> 00:41:11,376 And, uh, it does feel good to feel perfect, like, for a brief moment. 638 00:41:15,280 --> 00:41:18,515 My friends are like, "Oh, that'd be terrible," but if I kill myself in an accident, 639 00:41:18,517 --> 00:41:22,419 they'll be like, "Oh, that was too bad," but like life goes on, you know, 640 00:41:22,421 --> 00:41:23,754 like they'll be fine. 641 00:41:23,756 --> 00:41:25,254 I mean, and I've had this problem with girls a lot, you know. 642 00:41:25,256 --> 00:41:28,558 They're like, "Oh, I really care about you," I'm like, "No you don't." 643 00:41:28,560 --> 00:41:30,192 Like if I perish, like, it doesn't matter, 644 00:41:30,194 --> 00:41:33,729 like you'll find somebody else, like, that's not, that's not that big a deal. 645 00:41:33,731 --> 00:41:36,434 I don't know. 646 00:41:36,834 --> 00:41:39,771 Maybe that's a little too callous. 647 00:41:45,010 --> 00:41:49,515 My foot is improving, but it still swells up a bit. 648 00:41:53,517 --> 00:41:56,454 Rope! 649 00:42:01,660 --> 00:42:04,326 Pretty epic rappel. 650 00:42:04,328 --> 00:42:07,200 Uh, we're just commuting down the wall, kinda. 651 00:42:07,667 --> 00:42:09,969 We're just having a good old time. 652 00:42:11,102 --> 00:42:14,504 If you look at soloing El Cap objectively, there are probably six pitches that 653 00:42:14,506 --> 00:42:17,307 worry me the most. 654 00:42:17,309 --> 00:42:19,843 Just off the ground, there's some insecure climbing. 655 00:42:19,845 --> 00:42:22,479 And then Freeblast, Pitch 6, being the one I fell off of, 656 00:42:22,481 --> 00:42:25,381 which is obviously a total botch. 657 00:42:25,383 --> 00:42:28,752 Then the down climb to the Hollow Flake. 658 00:42:28,754 --> 00:42:31,754 And then the Monster Offwidth, 659 00:42:31,756 --> 00:42:34,559 which is super physical, difficult style of climbing. 660 00:42:38,664 --> 00:42:41,798 When you're in the Monster Offwidth, some part of you is always being 661 00:42:41,800 --> 00:42:44,569 crushed in the mountain. 662 00:42:45,269 --> 00:42:48,904 Imagine like the worst type of Pilates class in the whole world, 663 00:42:48,906 --> 00:42:52,308 somebody like flogging as you do it, and occasionally like sandpapering skin 664 00:42:52,310 --> 00:42:56,716 off your body, telling you to hold the position until you freakin' vomit, 665 00:42:57,082 --> 00:43:00,653 and if you lose the position you die. 666 00:43:04,388 --> 00:43:08,457 The Enduro Corner, in and of itself, would have been the most difficult part of 667 00:43:08,459 --> 00:43:10,495 virtually any big solo I've done. 668 00:43:15,533 --> 00:43:18,535 Your feet aren't on any specific holds. 669 00:43:18,537 --> 00:43:20,703 What makes your feet stay to the wall is the amount of pressure that you 670 00:43:20,705 --> 00:43:23,776 pull with your hands. 671 00:43:24,443 --> 00:43:27,644 The harder you pull with your hands, the more your feet stick. 672 00:43:27,646 --> 00:43:31,050 The most demanding for your arms on the whole route. 673 00:43:31,582 --> 00:43:35,887 And you've climbed 2,500 feet to get to the Enduro Corner, so you're pretty fatigued. 674 00:43:39,057 --> 00:43:42,962 But the piece that I've always worried about the most is the crux, the hardest part. 675 00:43:43,995 --> 00:43:49,501 To get past the crux, you have climb either the Boulder Problem or the Teflon Corner. 676 00:43:50,002 --> 00:43:54,006 2,000 off the ground, each of which I've fallen off many times with a rope. 677 00:43:59,678 --> 00:44:02,781 The Teflon Corner, which is basically like a 90-degree corner of glass, 678 00:44:03,182 --> 00:44:07,086 which is ultra-slippery, just fills me with terror. 679 00:44:07,785 --> 00:44:11,888 Pushing against the two walls of it, with my feet on glass, my palms on glass, 680 00:44:11,890 --> 00:44:14,857 and trying to make these little micro adjustments to keep my balance centered so 681 00:44:14,859 --> 00:44:17,761 that I can push evenly on all four sides of it. 682 00:44:17,763 --> 00:44:20,930 And then I imagine 2,500 feet of air beneath my feet, you're, like, 683 00:44:20,932 --> 00:44:24,035 that's just a crazy thing to think about. 684 00:44:26,037 --> 00:44:29,341 The alternative is the Boulder Problem. 685 00:44:30,508 --> 00:44:33,078 But the Boulder Problem has a 10-foot section that's incredibly difficult. 686 00:44:36,580 --> 00:44:39,482 It's a very intricate sequence. 687 00:44:39,484 --> 00:44:43,556 You've got your right hand on a crimp, left hand on a side pole, 688 00:44:44,089 --> 00:44:47,493 and then you put your right foot onto this dimple thing. 689 00:44:47,926 --> 00:44:51,731 Right hand goes up to a small down-pulling crimp, left foot goes into a little dish, 690 00:44:54,031 --> 00:44:57,466 and then you drive up off the left foot into the thumb press. 691 00:44:57,468 --> 00:44:59,602 That's the worst hold on the entire route. 692 00:44:59,604 --> 00:45:02,508 So, you get maybe half your thumb on the hold. 693 00:45:02,975 --> 00:45:07,480 Then you roll your two fingers over the thumb, switch your feet, 694 00:45:08,647 --> 00:45:11,784 left foot stems out to this really bad sloping black foothold. 695 00:45:14,618 --> 00:45:17,455 Switch your thumbs. 696 00:45:19,723 --> 00:45:22,991 And then reach out left to a big sloping bread loaf type hold that 697 00:45:22,993 --> 00:45:25,964 feels kind of grainy. 698 00:45:27,165 --> 00:45:31,836 From there, you either karate kick or double-dyno to an edge on the opposite wall. 699 00:45:34,872 --> 00:45:38,540 In some ways, it makes more sense to do the big two-handed jump because you're jumping to 700 00:45:38,542 --> 00:45:41,881 a good edge so there's actually something to catch. 701 00:45:47,986 --> 00:45:51,089 But the idea of jumping without a rope seems completely outrageous, 702 00:45:51,289 --> 00:45:54,626 if you miss it, that's that. 703 00:45:56,095 --> 00:46:00,566 But then the karate kick always feels like you're falling into the other wall, 704 00:46:00,798 --> 00:46:04,035 which also feels outrageous for soloing. 705 00:46:19,818 --> 00:46:23,086 Honestly, it wasn't like, I mean I felt, like, pretty strong just pinching 706 00:46:23,088 --> 00:46:24,720 that shit and just being that, put the foot. 707 00:46:24,722 --> 00:46:26,855 Well, as I said, when you actually put your foot out there, I was like, 708 00:46:26,857 --> 00:46:27,890 "Well, that doesn't look that bad." 709 00:46:27,892 --> 00:46:32,630 Yeah, it's not like crazy, but we'll see. 710 00:46:38,537 --> 00:46:40,169 Did you take Ibuprofen this morning? 711 00:46:40,171 --> 00:46:42,839 Uh-hmm, I mean, I'm going to right now also. 712 00:46:42,841 --> 00:46:44,874 - For your ankle? - Uh-hmm. 713 00:46:44,876 --> 00:46:51,216 Hmm, I'm not, like, super stoked when he goes soloing, because he's already a 714 00:46:52,082 --> 00:46:55,551 big part of my life. 715 00:46:55,553 --> 00:47:00,258 I tell Alex I love him all the time, and he shows me that he loves me all the time. 716 00:47:02,093 --> 00:47:03,959 And really just dive in. 717 00:47:03,961 --> 00:47:05,194 Yeah, yeah, yeah. 718 00:47:05,196 --> 00:47:07,296 But I also tell him that I also need words of affection. 719 00:47:07,298 --> 00:47:10,101 - Yeah. - We work on that. 720 00:47:11,569 --> 00:47:15,975 In terms of learning how to communicate emotion, Alex has a long way to go. 721 00:47:16,542 --> 00:47:22,145 And I said, "Sometimes I'm gonna tell you how I feel, and I just need you to say it 722 00:47:22,147 --> 00:47:24,850 totally makes sense that you feel that way." 723 00:47:25,584 --> 00:47:28,821 He was like, "Yeah, I can understand why you feel that way." 724 00:47:30,155 --> 00:47:32,955 I was like, "I don't really think that you do, 725 00:47:32,957 --> 00:47:35,860 but I'm glad that you're trying." 726 00:47:37,629 --> 00:47:39,962 Alex, we have excellent team skills. 727 00:47:39,964 --> 00:47:42,230 Well, I thought, I feel like we're not quite killin' it, but we're, 728 00:47:42,232 --> 00:47:43,700 I think we're doin' well. 729 00:47:43,702 --> 00:47:46,102 Really? I think we're doing great. 730 00:47:46,104 --> 00:47:49,675 I'm very happy for Alex and Sanni that it works so well. 731 00:47:50,307 --> 00:47:53,311 And I'm, I think I'm just impressed by their relationship, 732 00:47:55,814 --> 00:47:59,852 but to free solo at that level, you really have to have the mental armor. 733 00:48:00,919 --> 00:48:04,290 Having that romantic relationship around is detrimental to that armor. 734 00:48:05,223 --> 00:48:08,758 You have to focus and inherently a close romantic relationship 735 00:48:08,760 --> 00:48:10,125 removes that armor. 736 00:48:10,127 --> 00:48:13,598 You kinda can't have both at the same time. 737 00:48:39,691 --> 00:48:41,957 There's always something that has to give you the confidence to 738 00:48:41,959 --> 00:48:44,127 go out and free solo a route. 739 00:48:44,129 --> 00:48:48,000 So sometimes, that confidence just comes from feeling super, super fit. 740 00:48:48,200 --> 00:48:51,669 Sometimes, that confidence comes through preparation and rehearsal. 741 00:48:52,336 --> 00:48:55,106 But I mean there's always something that makes you feel ready. 742 00:49:02,747 --> 00:49:04,913 There's something to be said for, like, soloing a bunch of pitches to, like, 743 00:49:04,915 --> 00:49:08,287 get into that right space. 744 00:49:10,689 --> 00:49:12,758 It's a little stressful. 745 00:49:13,091 --> 00:49:16,692 It's just, it's unreal. 746 00:49:16,694 --> 00:49:18,328 Yeah. 747 00:49:18,330 --> 00:49:21,730 And as much as I trust Alex and I know that he's really methodical, uh, 748 00:49:21,732 --> 00:49:24,903 if you're pushing the edge, eventually you find the edge. 749 00:49:28,339 --> 00:49:29,939 But then there's just some things that you're, like, well, 750 00:49:29,941 --> 00:49:33,475 you just have to push that far because they're just, they're just that cool. 751 00:49:33,477 --> 00:49:36,280 And El Cap is that cool. 752 00:49:39,184 --> 00:49:42,655 There's incremental advances that happen in all kinds of things, 753 00:49:43,055 --> 00:49:46,825 but every once in a while there's just this iconic leap, soloing El Cap, 754 00:49:47,258 --> 00:49:50,796 if he pulls this off, is this quantum leap. 755 00:49:51,629 --> 00:49:55,800 It is hard to imagine somebody up there by themselves, without a rope, 756 00:49:56,167 --> 00:49:58,334 where it's pretty much all the other big cliffs around here. 757 00:49:58,336 --> 00:50:01,040 I can kinda get it. 758 00:50:01,606 --> 00:50:03,872 How many times have you soloed both those routes now? 759 00:50:03,874 --> 00:50:08,009 Well, Astroman, three or four times, but the Rostrum, I mean, literally, 760 00:50:08,011 --> 00:50:10,113 like, fifty, sixty. 761 00:50:10,115 --> 00:50:12,350 Wait, you've soloed the Rostrum 50 or 60 times? 762 00:50:12,984 --> 00:50:14,984 It was like part of the circuit and I would, 763 00:50:14,986 --> 00:50:17,120 I would go there and I would do it at least twice. 764 00:50:17,122 --> 00:50:19,390 Like I was just glommed on. 765 00:50:19,656 --> 00:50:20,890 Uh-huh. 766 00:50:20,892 --> 00:50:22,258 Not like I had a fear, but just kind of like this is how. 767 00:50:22,260 --> 00:50:24,526 Yeah, because you're so tight. You know, I love that about soloing. 768 00:50:24,528 --> 00:50:26,428 My footwork gets really good. 769 00:50:26,430 --> 00:50:27,997 Yeah, really, yeah totally, yeah. 770 00:50:27,999 --> 00:50:30,299 But it's not for anybody else, this is just for me. 771 00:50:30,301 --> 00:50:32,033 Yeah, yeah, just because you feel like you're. 772 00:50:32,035 --> 00:50:33,770 And after Astroman, people were like, 773 00:50:33,772 --> 00:50:35,337 "Ah, we wanna film you, film you up there," 774 00:50:35,339 --> 00:50:38,276 and I'm like, "Not interested, not even slightly." 775 00:50:38,477 --> 00:50:42,145 For me, it was so incredibly important to be doing it for the right reasons. 776 00:50:42,147 --> 00:50:45,180 I mean, I think I'm still doing everything for the right reasons, 777 00:50:45,182 --> 00:50:48,417 and I'm still totally stoked, but I feel like from the outside observer, you know, 778 00:50:48,419 --> 00:50:51,787 they'd be like, "Oh, he's got a movie crew," like clearly that's the 779 00:50:51,789 --> 00:50:53,423 wrong reasons, you know. 780 00:50:53,425 --> 00:50:59,031 The worst thing about having a film crew is if it changes your mindset. 781 00:51:09,140 --> 00:51:12,077 I think Alex is almost ready to do it. 782 00:51:12,310 --> 00:51:15,347 He just wants to take a few more practice laps. 783 00:51:16,381 --> 00:51:21,886 And we're just trying to figure out all of our camera positions. 784 00:51:27,124 --> 00:51:31,796 I mean the soloing headspace is so fragile. 785 00:51:32,330 --> 00:51:36,531 We wanna film it well, but it's about not getting in his way and making sure 786 00:51:36,533 --> 00:51:39,504 he has the experience he wants. 787 00:51:44,309 --> 00:51:47,142 The worst possible scenario is that one of us would do something 788 00:51:47,144 --> 00:51:49,044 that would kill him. 789 00:51:49,046 --> 00:51:50,312 Is it gonna be the drone? 790 00:51:50,314 --> 00:51:51,381 Is it gonna be one of the ropes? 791 00:51:51,383 --> 00:51:55,053 Is it gonna be us accidently knocking off a rock? 792 00:51:58,555 --> 00:52:01,223 The idea of falling off is, you know, obviously I'm trying to avoid that, 793 00:52:01,225 --> 00:52:05,394 but it's like kind of okay if it's just by myself. 794 00:52:05,396 --> 00:52:08,330 But, like, I wouldn't wanna fall off right in front of my friends, 'cause that's like, 795 00:52:08,332 --> 00:52:11,569 that's kind of messed up. 796 00:52:11,970 --> 00:52:15,274 Where are you comfortable with us being essentially? 797 00:52:15,941 --> 00:52:18,875 Well, do you have like. 798 00:52:18,877 --> 00:52:20,209 The traverse into it? 799 00:52:20,211 --> 00:52:21,843 - Uh-hmm. - Yeah. 800 00:52:21,845 --> 00:52:25,046 And then a, just a camera above, sitting above the Boulder Pitch, essentially. 801 00:52:25,048 --> 00:52:27,549 - Yeah. -It's distracting. - Yeah, it's distracting. 802 00:52:27,551 --> 00:52:30,553 Well, it's not just distracting, but it's also like, you know, 803 00:52:30,555 --> 00:52:34,126 nobody wants to see that, I don't know. 804 00:52:36,060 --> 00:52:40,129 Like, yeah, I don't, yeah, it's better not to. 805 00:52:40,131 --> 00:52:42,334 Some things you're like, meh. 806 00:52:42,966 --> 00:52:46,872 Yeah, okay. 807 00:52:49,006 --> 00:52:51,941 So should I rally into the valley and try to like round out plans? 808 00:52:51,943 --> 00:52:54,111 Yeah, yeah. 809 00:52:57,948 --> 00:53:00,616 Um, the moon set at 4:50 behind the ridge. 810 00:53:00,618 --> 00:53:05,354 The spire was touched by the sun at 7:30 and by 8:05, the sun was to the crux probably. 811 00:53:05,356 --> 00:53:06,589 - 8:05? - Okay. 812 00:53:06,591 --> 00:53:08,691 You don't want it to be sunny when you get to the crux, 813 00:53:08,693 --> 00:53:11,961 and it takes three or four hours to get up to the Boulder Problem, 814 00:53:11,963 --> 00:53:14,296 and it's fall so in order to beat the sun, 815 00:53:14,298 --> 00:53:16,631 you basically have to start in the dark. 816 00:53:16,633 --> 00:53:21,240 I kinda think just leave the ground at 4:00 again, basically. 817 00:53:29,113 --> 00:53:30,312 I don't know. 818 00:53:30,314 --> 00:53:32,885 I'm starting to get kind of psyched. 819 00:53:35,319 --> 00:53:38,154 The moment of just letting go to it is in some ways the most peaceful because 820 00:53:38,156 --> 00:53:39,721 then it's like you just do your thing. 821 00:53:39,723 --> 00:53:42,894 There's no more stress, there's no more anxiety, there's no fear, whatever, 822 00:53:43,394 --> 00:53:45,627 you just go up and do it. 823 00:53:45,629 --> 00:53:48,934 I put on my tight shoes today, it's like very exciting. 824 00:53:49,834 --> 00:53:53,169 It would be, like, it would be like a samurai pulling out his favorite sword, 825 00:53:53,171 --> 00:53:54,569 you know like, 826 00:53:54,571 --> 00:53:56,504 "Oh, my gosh," you know, and now I'm like, 827 00:53:56,506 --> 00:53:59,107 "Oh, time for the, the finely crafted blade." 828 00:53:59,109 --> 00:54:02,213 So stoked. I like sinking into it. 829 00:54:02,814 --> 00:54:08,250 It's, it goes with the Jedi thing, the samurai with the, and then I just 830 00:54:08,252 --> 00:54:09,919 started taking Ibuprofen. 831 00:54:09,921 --> 00:54:13,058 I've been, like, icing a bunch and, like, I think my foot's gonna be pretty good. 832 00:54:13,323 --> 00:54:16,528 Yeah, what does Sanni say when you talk to her about it? 833 00:54:16,827 --> 00:54:18,394 Um, I mean I haven't talked to her that much. 834 00:54:18,396 --> 00:54:20,029 She's been, like, asking a lot of questions like, "Oh, you know, how's it?" 835 00:54:20,031 --> 00:54:24,633 And I'm, I just haven't really like, I'm just like, "Oh, we'll see, we'll see." 836 00:54:24,635 --> 00:54:28,205 You know, the fewer people know anything, the better really. 837 00:54:30,374 --> 00:54:33,676 I had a dream and you were limping and you were like, had caught, 838 00:54:33,678 --> 00:54:38,147 had like made the exact same fall and fallen on your ankle in the exact same way. 839 00:54:38,149 --> 00:54:39,714 That's really nice, San San. 840 00:54:39,716 --> 00:54:41,183 It was like tragic. 841 00:54:41,185 --> 00:54:42,417 I love hearing stories about that. 842 00:54:42,419 --> 00:54:45,388 - I woke up, like, "Oh my gosh. - I hope that didn't happen." 843 00:54:45,390 --> 00:54:47,790 That's, that's really nice. 844 00:54:47,792 --> 00:54:49,658 Um, what is your, is your daypack? 845 00:54:49,660 --> 00:54:51,426 They're bringing it up there for you and Peter? 846 00:54:51,428 --> 00:54:53,395 Um, no. 847 00:54:53,397 --> 00:54:56,031 For me tomorrow, probably. 848 00:54:56,033 --> 00:54:58,767 For on the mountain? 849 00:54:58,769 --> 00:55:00,770 Um, for the summit, yeah. 850 00:55:00,772 --> 00:55:03,339 Hmm, you and Peter are gonna try and do the whole thing? 851 00:55:03,341 --> 00:55:06,207 Uh, no, Peter won't be here for a couple of days probably. 852 00:55:06,209 --> 00:55:08,410 Oh, who are you climbing with tomorrow? 853 00:55:08,412 --> 00:55:11,379 Um, yeah, we'll just see. 854 00:55:11,381 --> 00:55:13,417 Oh, okay, okay. 855 00:55:16,553 --> 00:55:20,089 Wait, so are you thinking of soloing it tomorrow, is that why you're not telling me who 856 00:55:20,091 --> 00:55:21,589 you're climbing with? 857 00:55:21,591 --> 00:55:24,225 Um, well, I'm not like not telling you, but yeah. 858 00:55:24,227 --> 00:55:25,493 Whoa, Alex. 859 00:55:25,495 --> 00:55:27,729 - Whoa. - Whoa. -Whoa. 860 00:55:27,731 --> 00:55:29,098 How do you feel? 861 00:55:29,100 --> 00:55:32,334 I'm, you know, I mean, excited. 862 00:55:32,336 --> 00:55:35,404 That's really exciting. Is it that feeling when you're like... 863 00:55:35,406 --> 00:55:37,705 So exciting I'm gonna go right back to my book. 864 00:55:37,707 --> 00:55:40,211 Where you're like, no, I'm not reading it. 865 00:55:41,479 --> 00:55:42,778 When did you decide? 866 00:55:42,780 --> 00:55:44,279 When did you decide to do it tomorrow? 867 00:55:44,281 --> 00:55:47,452 No, just, you know, uh, yesterday or the day before or something. 868 00:55:48,019 --> 00:55:51,189 Hmm, I'm processing. 869 00:56:16,714 --> 00:56:19,747 I wanna, like I wanna have this more, like, holistic approach that you have where 870 00:56:19,749 --> 00:56:20,982 you're like "Well, we're all gonna die, 871 00:56:20,984 --> 00:56:23,486 like might as well do what we wanna do while we're here and 872 00:56:23,488 --> 00:56:27,792 it's okay when people die," but I feel like I want you to meet me halfway 873 00:56:29,426 --> 00:56:34,098 and when you solo to take me into the equation 874 00:56:35,265 --> 00:56:36,531 and then I think you said... 875 00:56:36,533 --> 00:56:39,336 Is there a question? -Some, there's going to be. -Okay. 876 00:56:39,736 --> 00:56:42,638 Um, would putting me into the equation actually ever change anything? 877 00:56:42,640 --> 00:56:45,676 Would you actually make decisions differently? 878 00:56:46,044 --> 00:56:50,816 If I had some kind of obligation to maximize my lifespan, then like yeah, 879 00:56:51,115 --> 00:56:53,182 obviously I'd have to give up soloing and, um. 880 00:56:53,184 --> 00:56:56,785 Was me asking you, do you see that as an obligation now? 881 00:56:56,787 --> 00:56:58,486 ...Uh, no, no. 882 00:56:58,488 --> 00:57:00,156 Oh. 883 00:57:00,158 --> 00:57:05,761 No, but I appreciate your concerns and I, you know, I respect that, but, but I, 884 00:57:05,763 --> 00:57:07,897 in no way, feel obligated, no. 885 00:57:07,899 --> 00:57:09,330 To maximize lifetime? 886 00:57:09,332 --> 00:57:12,403 No, no, I don't know. 887 00:57:13,972 --> 00:57:18,609 Um, but I mean like you saying, "Be safer," I'm kinda like well, I mean I can't. 888 00:57:19,743 --> 00:57:21,544 You know, I'm already doing my best. 889 00:57:21,546 --> 00:57:23,712 So I could just, like, not do certain things, but then you have, like, 890 00:57:23,714 --> 00:57:26,448 weird simmering resentment because it's things that you love most in life 891 00:57:26,450 --> 00:57:28,417 have now been squashed. 892 00:57:28,419 --> 00:57:31,356 You know what I mean? 893 00:57:45,736 --> 00:57:49,571 - What time is it? -3:30. - Oh. 894 00:57:49,573 --> 00:57:52,473 I just woke up one minute before my alarm. 895 00:57:52,475 --> 00:57:55,180 Yeah, you woke up before or after? 896 00:57:56,379 --> 00:57:59,483 One minute before. 897 00:58:15,932 --> 00:58:19,503 It's like always about, like, excellence and perfection. 898 00:58:22,240 --> 00:58:25,544 And I was certainly raised that way, you know, that you need to, you need to perform. 899 00:58:29,412 --> 00:58:32,413 It's also just like kind of rad because you're doing something for the first time 900 00:58:32,415 --> 00:58:34,852 in human history. 901 00:58:49,267 --> 00:58:52,571 Let's hope it's a low gravity day. 902 00:58:54,772 --> 00:58:57,406 Bye, Huck, see you at the ground. 903 00:58:57,408 --> 00:59:00,578 - Meet you in the ground. - See you, buddy. 904 00:59:27,537 --> 00:59:30,841 This sucks. I don't wanna be here. 905 00:59:36,314 --> 00:59:39,283 I'm over it. 906 00:59:39,816 --> 00:59:40,948 What happened? 907 00:59:40,950 --> 00:59:43,419 I cheated on the slab down there. 908 00:59:43,421 --> 00:59:44,919 Might as well radio it. 909 00:59:44,921 --> 00:59:47,691 Do you wanna talk to him? 910 00:59:48,926 --> 00:59:51,593 I don't even know what to say, it's, like, kind of embarrassing. 911 00:59:51,595 --> 00:59:53,796 Uh, hey, whoever's on the radio, this is Alex. 912 00:59:53,798 --> 00:59:56,600 Um, I think I'm bailing. 913 00:59:58,568 --> 01:00:00,368 Wait, could you repeat? 914 01:00:00,370 --> 01:00:02,638 I think he's bailing from heart. 915 01:00:02,640 --> 01:00:05,676 Bailing from heart, that's correct. 916 01:00:08,979 --> 01:00:11,716 It's kind of disturbing. 917 01:00:15,952 --> 01:00:18,854 Yeah, I wonder what it was. 918 01:00:18,856 --> 01:00:21,689 I don't know if I can try with everybody watching. 919 01:00:21,691 --> 01:00:23,524 It's too scary. 920 01:00:23,526 --> 01:00:26,463 Just can't, like, try for real. 921 01:00:40,644 --> 01:00:43,779 - Oh, my gosh. -Good morning. - What are you doing? 922 01:00:43,781 --> 01:00:45,080 Oh, I bailed. 923 01:00:45,082 --> 01:00:46,647 You bailed, oh? 924 01:00:46,649 --> 01:00:47,850 Yeah, it's chilly outside. 925 01:00:47,852 --> 01:00:49,517 It's chilly, okay. 926 01:00:49,519 --> 01:00:51,622 Okay. 927 01:00:52,390 --> 01:00:53,455 What's going on? 928 01:00:53,457 --> 01:00:58,063 Well, not much. 929 01:00:58,263 --> 01:00:59,462 What's up? 930 01:00:59,464 --> 01:01:01,562 Oh, I just, I went up to Free Blast and I was, like, nah, 931 01:01:01,564 --> 01:01:03,098 I'm not gonna' do it. But... 932 01:01:03,100 --> 01:01:04,566 Good for you. 933 01:01:04,568 --> 01:01:05,933 Yeah, well, it's just a little weird, you know? 934 01:01:05,935 --> 01:01:07,669 - Yup. - Yeah. -No. 935 01:01:07,671 --> 01:01:11,673 Right, I mean there's just too many random, random folks about and stuff, whatever. 936 01:01:11,675 --> 01:01:13,008 Uh-hmm, yeah. 937 01:01:13,010 --> 01:01:15,778 But, like, basically I did the first half of the first slab. 938 01:01:15,780 --> 01:01:17,113 Uh-hmm. 939 01:01:17,115 --> 01:01:19,515 And then, uh, and then I just was like, "Oh, I don't know." 940 01:01:19,517 --> 01:01:20,716 And my feet. 941 01:01:20,718 --> 01:01:22,151 Right, you made the perfect decision. 942 01:01:22,153 --> 01:01:23,718 I don't know though, I'm just like. 943 01:01:23,720 --> 01:01:24,919 Yeah. 944 01:01:24,921 --> 01:01:26,988 But now it all has to drag on longer, I'm like. 945 01:01:26,990 --> 01:01:29,857 You, yeah, I mean, you never have to go for it. 946 01:01:29,859 --> 01:01:30,792 You can just. 947 01:01:30,794 --> 01:01:32,761 Well, I just need it to end, you know. 948 01:01:32,763 --> 01:01:34,196 Yeah, yeah, all the... 949 01:01:34,198 --> 01:01:36,098 Yeah, you know what I'm talking about. 950 01:01:36,100 --> 01:01:38,603 The circus surrounding you. 951 01:01:42,472 --> 01:01:45,776 I just can't imagine, I wonder if he got nervous. 952 01:01:47,144 --> 01:01:49,778 Is that possible? 953 01:01:49,780 --> 01:01:51,682 Oh, man. 954 01:01:52,015 --> 01:01:54,917 There's a lot of things that I don't totally understand about him. 955 01:01:54,919 --> 01:01:56,151 You know? 956 01:01:56,153 --> 01:01:57,519 Yeah, I know. 957 01:01:57,521 --> 01:02:01,825 I mean in some ways it'd be kind of reassuring that Spock has nerves. 958 01:02:13,069 --> 01:02:15,671 It was the first time I've ever gone up on something like real and 959 01:02:15,673 --> 01:02:17,473 then not done it. 960 01:02:17,475 --> 01:02:22,680 But it's also the first time I've ever gone up on something real with people all watching. 961 01:02:22,946 --> 01:02:26,551 By myself, I maybe would have just, like, persevered, I don't know, 962 01:02:27,118 --> 01:02:30,752 maybe I just suck, but, 963 01:02:30,754 --> 01:02:34,125 you know, at least I've like, at least I've tried. 964 01:02:56,981 --> 01:02:58,917 Thanks for meeting us again. 965 01:03:02,620 --> 01:03:06,522 It's funny, it always has a certain smell in here, and I wonder if it's 966 01:03:06,524 --> 01:03:07,955 the paint or the. 967 01:03:07,957 --> 01:03:10,461 Yeah, it's the fresh paint. 968 01:03:10,828 --> 01:03:13,798 Dining room with probably also bookshelves. 969 01:03:15,031 --> 01:03:16,631 Wait, so what am, what am I signing? 970 01:03:16,633 --> 01:03:18,901 "Buyers of unit approves the home inspection." 971 01:03:18,903 --> 01:03:24,038 Yeah, Alex told me I get one furniture question a day. 972 01:03:24,040 --> 01:03:26,008 I've always thought that I ought to buy a house, 973 01:03:26,010 --> 01:03:29,611 just haven't quite had the energy to make it all happen myself. 974 01:03:29,613 --> 01:03:32,180 I think Sanni will be stoked to have a place to live and there's so much 975 01:03:32,182 --> 01:03:34,685 climbing all around Vegas. 976 01:03:35,153 --> 01:03:40,492 Big sectional here and chair or like sofa and two chairs. 977 01:03:43,227 --> 01:03:45,930 Potential, like, bar area. 978 01:03:47,597 --> 01:03:49,230 I would just sleep straight on the carpet. 979 01:03:49,232 --> 01:03:51,502 It'd be like. 980 01:03:58,742 --> 01:04:02,843 Alex was a huge jerk watching me struggle with the tape measure, 981 01:04:02,845 --> 01:04:05,881 being an asshole standing by commenting on how stupid I look, 982 01:04:05,883 --> 01:04:10,185 but not actually offering to help or be productive or kind in any way. 983 01:04:10,187 --> 01:04:13,020 And so now it's all gone to shit. 984 01:04:13,022 --> 01:04:16,126 Yeah, you're asking about our domestic bliss, it's nonexistent. 985 01:04:16,961 --> 01:04:19,794 You're so angry, but it's cracking, it's cracking. 986 01:04:19,796 --> 01:04:20,995 It's not cracking. 987 01:04:20,997 --> 01:04:22,263 Yeah, it is, it's cracking. 988 01:04:22,265 --> 01:04:23,865 No, it's not, I'm still angry. 989 01:04:23,867 --> 01:04:25,167 I can tell you're cracking. 990 01:04:25,169 --> 01:04:26,701 I'm not cracking. 991 01:04:26,703 --> 01:04:28,270 But you're not that angry, you're cracking. 992 01:04:28,272 --> 01:04:29,937 I'm not cracking. 993 01:04:29,939 --> 01:04:32,006 This is firm resolve of hatred. 994 01:04:32,008 --> 01:04:34,211 Yeah, yeah, yeah. 995 01:04:35,613 --> 01:04:38,816 Oh, boy. 996 01:04:40,017 --> 01:04:42,750 That one seems very big and very wide. 997 01:04:42,752 --> 01:04:44,289 Oh. 998 01:04:46,022 --> 01:04:48,660 Whoa, that seems really deep. 999 01:04:50,193 --> 01:04:51,892 We should just ask somebody. 1000 01:04:51,894 --> 01:04:53,194 Hmm, I know. 1001 01:04:53,196 --> 01:04:54,629 Let's keep looking for the smaller ones. 1002 01:04:54,631 --> 01:04:55,964 Oh, this is the $400, that's. 1003 01:04:55,966 --> 01:04:57,232 That's it! 1004 01:04:57,234 --> 01:04:58,399 That's it, that's our jam. 1005 01:04:58,401 --> 01:04:59,901 This is actually, like, kind of perfect. 1006 01:04:59,903 --> 01:05:02,807 This is like so adequate. 1007 01:05:05,008 --> 01:05:06,375 We have a fridge! 1008 01:05:06,377 --> 01:05:09,314 - Hmm. - Yay! -That success. 1009 01:05:09,847 --> 01:05:11,379 Is it possible? 1010 01:05:11,381 --> 01:05:16,921 We had like a sort of a rough patch since Yosemite, where, I don't know, 1011 01:05:17,687 --> 01:05:21,658 Alex isn't super good about putting a name to how he's feeling. 1012 01:05:21,892 --> 01:05:24,692 So, he'll be like, "I know I'm cranky, but I don't really know why and I'm not gonna 1013 01:05:24,694 --> 01:05:27,164 take the time to figure it out." 1014 01:05:27,698 --> 01:05:30,732 I'm patient, but I also have self-respect. 1015 01:05:30,734 --> 01:05:34,806 And then, you know, the second that I start being mad, he's just like "foom." 1016 01:05:38,207 --> 01:05:39,774 How do you make coffee? 1017 01:05:39,776 --> 01:05:42,276 You need like a filter. 1018 01:05:42,278 --> 01:05:45,980 Definitely my relationship with Sanni is, like, the most healthy and stable 1019 01:05:45,982 --> 01:05:48,151 relationship I've ever had. 1020 01:05:48,484 --> 01:05:50,887 Oh, look at that, the only thing in the cupboard. 1021 01:05:51,488 --> 01:05:53,287 Certainly more communicative. 1022 01:05:53,289 --> 01:05:55,790 Even Sanni over the year and a half we've been dating is like, 1023 01:05:55,792 --> 01:05:57,825 "Wow, you've really blossomed." 1024 01:05:57,827 --> 01:05:59,495 Well, that's not really promising. 1025 01:05:59,497 --> 01:06:02,330 And you think you put the coffee in there and then you push the water through it? 1026 01:06:02,332 --> 01:06:03,698 I don't how to, um. 1027 01:06:03,700 --> 01:06:06,100 Hello, oh, my gosh, wow! 1028 01:06:06,102 --> 01:06:07,769 Oh, like, how's, why? 1029 01:06:07,771 --> 01:06:09,203 Is this what it is to be, um, a homeowner? 1030 01:06:09,205 --> 01:06:11,406 You get breakfast and coffee made for you every day? 1031 01:06:11,408 --> 01:06:14,042 I don't, I don't understand the, do you put the coffee in here and 1032 01:06:14,044 --> 01:06:15,109 then put the water to it? 1033 01:06:15,111 --> 01:06:16,343 It's really complicated. 1034 01:06:16,345 --> 01:06:19,050 But she sees things in a different way. 1035 01:06:19,249 --> 01:06:22,719 For Sanni the point of life is like happiness. 1036 01:06:22,919 --> 01:06:26,857 To be with people that make you feel fulfilled and to have a good time. 1037 01:06:27,158 --> 01:06:30,194 For me it's all about performance. 1038 01:06:30,627 --> 01:06:34,699 The thing is anybody can be happy and cozy. 1039 01:06:34,899 --> 01:06:38,336 Nothing good happens in the world by being happy and cozy. 1040 01:06:40,437 --> 01:06:44,375 You know, like nobody achieves anything great because they're happy and cozy. 1041 01:06:45,809 --> 01:06:50,247 You never wanna feel like you're getting in the way of someone's goal. 1042 01:06:51,115 --> 01:06:55,919 And it's really hard for me to grasp why he wants this. 1043 01:06:57,754 --> 01:07:02,426 But it's his dream and he obviously still really wants it. 1044 01:07:06,229 --> 01:07:09,397 It's about being a warrior. 1045 01:07:09,399 --> 01:07:12,399 It doesn't matter about the cause necessarily. 1046 01:07:12,401 --> 01:07:15,906 This is your path and you will pursue it with excellence. 1047 01:07:17,941 --> 01:07:20,877 You face your fear because your goal demands it. 1048 01:07:22,211 --> 01:07:26,050 That is the goddamn warrior spirit. 1049 01:07:26,682 --> 01:07:30,287 I think that the free soloing mentality is pretty close to warrior culture, 1050 01:07:31,254 --> 01:07:35,792 where you give something 100% focus because your life depends on it. 1051 01:08:06,089 --> 01:08:10,591 The move I gave up on in the fall was a right foot on this little edge right here, 1052 01:08:10,593 --> 01:08:14,865 and I basically just have to like stand on the right foot and just trust it. 1053 01:08:15,066 --> 01:08:18,133 And I was like, "I don't really wanna have my whole life depend on like standing 1054 01:08:18,135 --> 01:08:21,105 on this one right foot." 1055 01:08:22,372 --> 01:08:25,209 But maybe I can find another way. 1056 01:08:31,414 --> 01:08:35,019 I think this is like kind of the business of the whole deal, 1057 01:08:36,052 --> 01:08:39,353 which is interesting because if you're climbing with a rope it's not at all, 1058 01:08:39,355 --> 01:08:42,492 but without a rope it is. 1059 01:09:11,454 --> 01:09:17,093 That's my variation, I just don't know. 1060 01:09:25,636 --> 01:09:30,374 I think that he's only comfortable climbing in front of the camera or in front of 1061 01:09:30,640 --> 01:09:34,345 any other people when he's really confident and secure. 1062 01:09:34,945 --> 01:09:38,349 And that's been the dilemma that this whole production has faced, right? 1063 01:09:38,582 --> 01:09:39,781 - Yeah. - From the beginning. 1064 01:09:39,783 --> 01:09:42,517 Our being there is always going to change things. 1065 01:09:42,519 --> 01:09:46,254 What made the big difference for me is that he did turn around last year. 1066 01:09:46,256 --> 01:09:50,061 He didn't feel the pressure to have to do it because we were there. 1067 01:09:51,227 --> 01:09:54,565 And I really, like that to me said a lot. 1068 01:09:55,464 --> 01:09:57,568 It meant a lot. 1069 01:10:14,952 --> 01:10:18,553 Is that what you'd want, us not to film it? 1070 01:10:18,555 --> 01:10:21,089 Hmm, no. 1071 01:10:21,091 --> 01:10:24,259 I mean, hard to say it but I care about doing it a lot more than I care 1072 01:10:24,261 --> 01:10:25,960 about it being filmed. 1073 01:10:25,962 --> 01:10:27,429 You know? 1074 01:10:27,431 --> 01:10:30,031 You could put your foot down at any time, and, and, you know. 1075 01:10:30,033 --> 01:10:31,532 Yeah, I mean, I'm aware of it. 1076 01:10:31,534 --> 01:10:33,300 Like, if I want to, I just won't tell anybody and I'm just gonna do it 1077 01:10:33,302 --> 01:10:34,501 on my own terms. 1078 01:10:34,503 --> 01:10:35,769 Yeah, exactly. 1079 01:10:35,771 --> 01:10:38,139 Like whatever, like I mean that's obviously on the table. 1080 01:10:38,141 --> 01:10:40,308 But obviously that would hose everybody, you know? 1081 01:10:40,310 --> 01:10:41,408 Yeah. 1082 01:10:41,410 --> 01:10:42,743 If you woke up tomorrow and you were like, 1083 01:10:42,745 --> 01:10:44,011 "You know what, screw all of this, 1084 01:10:44,013 --> 01:10:46,380 I just don't care enough, like I don't feel good enough." 1085 01:10:46,382 --> 01:10:47,883 You know, but that's like, yeah, 1086 01:10:47,885 --> 01:10:50,085 I mean, of course I, I mean, I know I could do that and just walk away. 1087 01:10:50,087 --> 01:10:55,026 But it's like, you know, I mean, you know, I don't want to. 1088 01:11:07,503 --> 01:11:11,206 Having all these people around requires a higher level of preparation, 1089 01:11:11,208 --> 01:11:14,045 a higher level of confidence basically. 1090 01:11:14,244 --> 01:11:17,578 I need to like dial it in so much that, you know, it doesn't matter if there's 1091 01:11:17,580 --> 01:11:20,281 like a stadium of people watching me because it's so easy for me that I'm just like, 1092 01:11:20,283 --> 01:11:22,553 "Check this out." And just do it. 1093 01:11:23,986 --> 01:11:27,490 Pitch one, stay left towards the top, splitter, it feels more secure. 1094 01:11:28,525 --> 01:11:31,492 Pitch two, trust the right foot, rock on, trust the feet, 1095 01:11:31,494 --> 01:11:33,127 right hand to the last under cling. 1096 01:11:33,129 --> 01:11:34,795 Eight, easy romp. Go fast. 1097 01:11:34,797 --> 01:11:38,133 Nine, stay outside of the down climb, careful of blocks. 1098 01:11:38,135 --> 01:11:42,036 Pitch 26, sort of lie back and up the corner, key left-hand pinch thing, 1099 01:11:42,038 --> 01:11:45,607 right foot back step on the lower edge, left foot faced against the wall, stand up. 1100 01:11:45,609 --> 01:11:49,513 Left hand to the huge ear jug thing, switch the feet, match the big jug, 1101 01:11:49,945 --> 01:11:53,447 left foot jams into the crack, then you see right-hand down pulling on the top part of the 1102 01:11:53,449 --> 01:11:57,085 jug, left hand goes into this flared slot thing, which you can either fist jam or hand 1103 01:11:57,087 --> 01:11:59,386 jam, either way, it's like a flare jam in the slot. 1104 01:11:59,388 --> 01:12:03,323 Sag down onto it, right hand crosses under to an under cling, side pull. 1105 01:12:03,325 --> 01:12:06,460 Right foot sinks low to a flat edge, left foot steps through to an edge, 1106 01:12:06,462 --> 01:12:10,197 right foot back steps really high so you can sag your weight around the corner 1107 01:12:10,199 --> 01:12:11,765 without having to swing. 1108 01:12:11,767 --> 01:12:14,635 Left foot out to the big horn, right hand through to a little finger pocket, 1109 01:12:14,637 --> 01:12:17,805 you go left foot out to an edge around the corner, you can actually push all the way 1110 01:12:17,807 --> 01:12:20,207 into the corner, then you can grab this down pulling right hand, flat, 1111 01:12:20,209 --> 01:12:21,910 like a small crimp. 1112 01:12:21,912 --> 01:12:24,411 Left hand to the other under cling, switch your feet on the rail and then just reach 1113 01:12:24,413 --> 01:12:26,716 through the jugs, and then it's done. 1114 01:12:26,949 --> 01:12:31,286 The key thing for the crux, pull hard, trust feet, "trust" underline, 1115 01:12:31,288 --> 01:12:33,554 double exclamation point, period. 1116 01:12:33,556 --> 01:12:36,426 Autopilot. Period. 1117 01:12:56,378 --> 01:12:59,413 I mean, you know, it's not surprising that Ueli died. 1118 01:12:59,415 --> 01:13:03,117 Considering he's always doing crazy dangerous things, but I kind of thought 1119 01:13:03,119 --> 01:13:05,789 he was gonna survive. 1120 01:13:07,891 --> 01:13:13,294 Ueli talked about doing sketchy climbs that you just kind of squeak out once. 1121 01:13:13,296 --> 01:13:16,700 You know I've always tried not to. 1122 01:13:16,900 --> 01:13:19,767 But when I was talking to him about, about Free Rider, I was like, 1123 01:13:19,769 --> 01:13:22,402 "Oh maybe Free Rider is one of those routes that I just need to go squeak 1124 01:13:22,404 --> 01:13:25,542 out once and just like make sure it's my day." 1125 01:13:26,142 --> 01:13:29,579 You know, obviously it wasn't his day. 1126 01:13:38,754 --> 01:13:42,290 After Ueli died, it's interesting with Alex, how he justifies all that 1127 01:13:42,292 --> 01:13:44,595 stuff away so quickly. 1128 01:13:45,195 --> 01:13:47,428 He was just kind of like shrugged it off, he's like 1129 01:13:47,430 --> 01:13:49,867 "Oh, yeah, yeah, it could happen." 1130 01:13:53,802 --> 01:13:56,371 I talked to Alex for a really long time about all of this. 1131 01:13:56,373 --> 01:13:58,339 And I was like, "What if you die? 1132 01:13:58,341 --> 01:14:01,876 Like what if you die just like Ueli died?" 1133 01:14:01,878 --> 01:14:05,813 Ueli and his wife, Nicole, had a really beautiful relationship and they 1134 01:14:05,815 --> 01:14:08,483 would climb together. 1135 01:14:08,485 --> 01:14:12,853 Alex said at one point, "Well, what did she expect?" 1136 01:14:12,855 --> 01:14:16,593 And I got, I was like, "What do you mean what did she expect?" 1137 01:14:17,427 --> 01:14:23,333 I was like, "I'm Nicole, Alex! And I don't expect that." 1138 01:14:23,833 --> 01:14:27,268 Tons of more people have died and Alex is kind of 1139 01:14:27,270 --> 01:14:32,407 the most likely to die, but I know he's gonna do it. 1140 01:14:32,409 --> 01:14:36,180 So I'd like to be there to help him prepare as well as he can. 1141 01:14:38,414 --> 01:14:39,649 Oh, shit. 1142 01:14:39,982 --> 01:14:43,984 If he went to solo it and fell and died, and I hadn't helped him prepare 1143 01:14:43,986 --> 01:14:45,553 that would be harder for me. 1144 01:14:45,555 --> 01:14:48,590 Like, I just know that I'm, I'm one of the people that's gonna be able to do 1145 01:14:48,592 --> 01:14:51,462 that the best with him and so, I should. 1146 01:14:59,336 --> 01:15:03,373 He said he's feeling tinges of, of like game time. 1147 01:15:05,007 --> 01:15:07,711 I think there's a chance he goes tomorrow. 1148 01:15:11,748 --> 01:15:15,817 They are remote cameras, because we wanna stay out of Alex's 1149 01:15:15,819 --> 01:15:17,788 line of sight when he's doing it. 1150 01:15:20,656 --> 01:15:23,457 Okay, everybody knows what to do if something goes wrong. 1151 01:15:23,459 --> 01:15:26,196 Josh, just to confirm who should Mikey call? 1152 01:15:27,596 --> 01:15:29,863 The easiest thing would just be 911. 1153 01:15:29,865 --> 01:15:33,636 And that we will get kicked into gear and tell them what you know. 1154 01:15:34,037 --> 01:15:35,370 A climber. 1155 01:15:35,372 --> 01:15:37,304 Yeah. 1156 01:15:37,306 --> 01:15:40,376 All right, no mistakes tomorrow. 1157 01:15:50,854 --> 01:15:54,921 I'm worried that tomorrow is gonna be it, like, you know, 1158 01:15:54,923 --> 01:15:58,828 like Alex's existence will be over. 1159 01:16:00,596 --> 01:16:04,564 I was like, "Oh, I have to be prepared for that outcome and 1160 01:16:04,566 --> 01:16:08,305 I have to realize that that is a real possibility." 1161 01:16:12,742 --> 01:16:14,712 Oh, God. 1162 01:16:24,421 --> 01:16:27,854 Remember when you said you were gonna stand up for my goodbye? 1163 01:16:27,856 --> 01:16:30,625 - Oh, is it time? -Yeah. - Oh. 1164 01:16:30,627 --> 01:16:33,564 But you don't have to stand up, but you have to sit up. 1165 01:16:33,931 --> 01:16:37,568 Oh, you could've just left me. 1166 01:16:38,967 --> 01:16:42,639 No, no, I'm never gonna go. 1167 01:16:43,605 --> 01:16:45,872 Okay, drive safe. 1168 01:16:45,874 --> 01:16:49,512 Ciao, see you later! 1169 01:17:05,628 --> 01:17:07,862 I mean, I didn't ask her to leave. 1170 01:17:07,864 --> 01:17:09,563 I mean, I would never ask her to leave. 1171 01:17:09,565 --> 01:17:14,535 But, you know, I think she kind of understands that, that it's probably easier for 1172 01:17:14,537 --> 01:17:17,708 me if she's gone. 1173 01:17:19,676 --> 01:17:22,410 I don't, I, the whole like saying goodbye thing I'm like 1174 01:17:22,412 --> 01:17:25,479 "I'll probably see her in like five days or something." 1175 01:17:25,481 --> 01:17:27,984 It's not like goodbye, it's just goodbye for a few days. 1176 01:17:33,690 --> 01:17:37,125 You know, I mean there's just that like weird thought of like, 1177 01:17:37,127 --> 01:17:40,931 don't freaking let that be our last hug or whatever. 1178 01:17:45,635 --> 01:17:49,605 You know, like I shouldn't be having that thought... 1179 01:17:53,709 --> 01:17:57,347 of like "What if something happens? 1180 01:17:57,614 --> 01:18:00,884 Like what if I don't see him again?" 1181 01:18:02,418 --> 01:18:05,486 You know, like, "Why do you wanna do this? 1182 01:18:05,488 --> 01:18:08,992 Like it's a totally crazy goal." 1183 01:19:43,186 --> 01:19:44,986 Hey, Jimmy, do you copy? 1184 01:19:44,988 --> 01:19:47,124 This is Jimmy. 1185 01:19:49,092 --> 01:19:51,562 He just started climbing. 1186 01:20:29,231 --> 01:20:32,099 It is so slippery right there. 1187 01:20:32,101 --> 01:20:33,971 This is where he bailed. 1188 01:21:32,261 --> 01:21:36,096 Mikey, do you copy? This is Jimmy. 1189 01:21:36,098 --> 01:21:38,299 Hey, Jimmy, this is Mikey. 1190 01:21:38,301 --> 01:21:41,705 Can you let me know when he's through the slab pitch? 1191 01:21:42,838 --> 01:21:45,072 He's through the slab pitch. 1192 01:21:45,074 --> 01:21:47,207 He's through it? 1193 01:21:47,209 --> 01:21:49,846 Yup, he's almost at half dollar. 1194 01:21:50,378 --> 01:21:52,783 He's moving fast. 1195 01:21:53,917 --> 01:21:58,120 Yes, Jimmy, he is of course ahead of schedule. 1196 01:22:00,722 --> 01:22:02,758 So how far is he from Mammoth? 1197 01:22:03,860 --> 01:22:05,829 Doing the half dollar right now. 1198 01:22:23,111 --> 01:22:26,048 6:21 he's down climbing to Heart Ledge there's a party, 1199 01:22:27,083 --> 01:22:29,386 in a Porter Ledge still. 1200 01:22:32,187 --> 01:22:34,958 They're awake and there's, they're aware. 1201 01:22:35,557 --> 01:22:38,294 They're like "Here comes Honnold." Oh, my God. 1202 01:22:39,328 --> 01:22:42,365 A Dude in a bunny suit. 1203 01:22:46,235 --> 01:22:48,102 The person is getting up now. 1204 01:22:48,104 --> 01:22:50,103 Uh yeah, no there's a tail. 1205 01:22:50,105 --> 01:22:56,245 This person has a tail and it's either a chicken head or a bunny. 1206 01:22:56,779 --> 01:22:58,982 Oh, it's a unicorn. 1207 01:22:59,181 --> 01:23:01,318 Come on. Who does that? 1208 01:23:02,485 --> 01:23:05,088 I've never seen that on El Cap. 1209 01:23:05,887 --> 01:23:09,223 Wow, and Alex is gone. 1210 01:23:09,225 --> 01:23:12,062 Okay, so he's entering the Hollow Flake at 6:49. 1211 01:23:12,428 --> 01:23:16,065 He just did the Hollow Flake down climb and is in the Hollow Flake now. 1212 01:23:21,204 --> 01:23:25,238 And then the thing about Free Rider is that from the base of Hollow Flake 1213 01:23:25,240 --> 01:23:28,979 it's one crack system all the way to the top which is like what, 2,000 feet? 1214 01:23:31,513 --> 01:23:35,318 That's the most magnificent crack on planet earth. 1215 01:23:43,191 --> 01:23:44,591 Doug, this is Jimmy. 1216 01:23:44,593 --> 01:23:47,998 Do you know if they've radioed if he's gotten to the Monster yet? 1217 01:23:49,899 --> 01:23:51,735 Yeah, he's there now. 1218 01:24:24,534 --> 01:24:28,205 He's almost through it. 1219 01:24:41,583 --> 01:24:44,451 There, he's coming up now actually. 1220 01:24:44,453 --> 01:24:47,453 Now we see him like at the same height as the spire. 1221 01:24:47,455 --> 01:24:50,526 But you guys are all in position ready to go? 1222 01:24:51,394 --> 01:24:55,798 Yeah, Sam and I are at the bottom of the head wall. 1223 01:24:56,298 --> 01:25:00,770 My guess is he's 15 minutes from the Boulder Problem or so. 1224 01:26:34,997 --> 01:26:38,968 He just did the karate kick. 1225 01:26:40,669 --> 01:26:42,471 He's got it. 1226 01:26:47,176 --> 01:26:49,044 Oh, yeah. 1227 01:26:50,613 --> 01:26:52,446 That is way too gnarly. 1228 01:26:52,448 --> 01:26:55,252 - Oh, my God. - He did it. Jesus. 1229 01:26:57,686 --> 01:27:00,089 He just sent the boulder problem. 1230 01:27:01,123 --> 01:27:04,127 He must be so stoked. 1231 01:27:04,659 --> 01:27:07,396 I mean to have the slabs and the boulder problem behind him is monumental. 1232 01:27:12,435 --> 01:27:16,272 - Here's the Enduro huh? - Yup, this is the Enduro. 1233 01:27:52,641 --> 01:27:56,379 I can't believe you guys are actually gonna watch. 1234 01:27:56,745 --> 01:28:00,382 Oh, I don't wanna, I don't, I don't, I don't, I don't, no, no. 1235 01:28:23,439 --> 01:28:26,209 Oh, my God. 1236 01:28:34,083 --> 01:28:36,183 Yeah, that's kind of exposed right there. 1237 01:28:36,185 --> 01:28:39,422 Oh, my God, it's so exposed. 1238 01:28:39,721 --> 01:28:42,423 That arĂȘte move as he stepped around has gotta be, 1239 01:28:42,425 --> 01:28:43,791 I mean that's one of the most exposed moves 1240 01:28:43,793 --> 01:28:47,560 like anywhere on El Cap. 1241 01:28:47,562 --> 01:28:50,065 If you just step out, it all drops away. 1242 01:29:43,284 --> 01:29:45,387 Yeah, buddy. 1243 01:29:46,055 --> 01:29:49,288 Alex is having the best day of his life. 1244 01:29:49,290 --> 01:29:52,128 I don't know. Not me. 1245 01:29:52,328 --> 01:29:56,800 I'm done, yeah, no, this is it, I don't, we don't need to do this again. 1246 01:30:01,436 --> 01:30:02,604 Yeah, no. 1247 01:32:06,628 --> 01:32:08,931 It's over now. 1248 01:32:13,302 --> 01:32:17,906 Oh, God, it's done, woo-hoo! 1249 01:32:19,507 --> 01:32:20,974 Oh, God. 1250 01:32:20,976 --> 01:32:23,580 Oh, God, wow. 1251 01:32:24,747 --> 01:32:28,618 Oh, my God, I can't believe what I just witnessed. 1252 01:33:07,021 --> 01:33:10,724 Oh, God. 1253 01:33:10,726 --> 01:33:12,962 Good to see you again, yay. 1254 01:33:13,762 --> 01:33:16,599 Wow! 1255 01:33:18,934 --> 01:33:21,570 So delighted. 1256 01:33:22,104 --> 01:33:25,275 That felt so good, it's freaking raged. 1257 01:33:26,141 --> 01:33:29,444 Like a gigantic weight off of my shoulders too. 1258 01:33:30,079 --> 01:33:32,749 I have to admit, I mean. 1259 01:33:33,415 --> 01:33:38,354 So delighted, what a journey. 1260 01:33:39,221 --> 01:33:44,560 Yeah, I just can't even believe after eight years of dreaming, 1261 01:33:46,762 --> 01:33:49,763 oh San-san's calling me. 1262 01:33:49,765 --> 01:33:51,531 Hello? 1263 01:33:54,602 --> 01:33:56,236 Yeah, so delighted. 1264 01:33:56,238 --> 01:33:59,072 Oh my, you're so delighted, that's putting it lightly. 1265 01:33:59,074 --> 01:34:02,108 I've like never smiled so much. Don't say anything too. 1266 01:34:02,110 --> 01:34:04,544 I wanna see it. What's that? 1267 01:34:04,546 --> 01:34:06,947 Like, I told you I wanted to see that smile. 1268 01:34:06,949 --> 01:34:08,715 Yeah, I know. 1269 01:34:08,717 --> 01:34:11,984 I've like never cried so hard and I didn't even see it coming. 1270 01:34:11,986 --> 01:34:15,624 Showing that you talk now, I was just like "Blah." 1271 01:34:16,025 --> 01:34:17,823 Yeah, no, I'm, I'm sort of at, 1272 01:34:17,825 --> 01:34:20,730 at risk of crying here too, I'm like, I feel quite emotional. 1273 01:34:21,297 --> 01:34:24,667 Yeah, no, don't cry San-san it will make me cry. 1274 01:34:25,900 --> 01:34:28,403 But Claire says cry it. 1275 01:34:28,669 --> 01:34:30,903 I think the movie would be better if I burst into tears, but I, 1276 01:34:30,905 --> 01:34:32,471 I don't really want to. 1277 01:34:32,473 --> 01:34:34,573 But, well I do want to kind of, but. 1278 01:34:34,575 --> 01:34:37,143 I'm so happy. 1279 01:34:37,145 --> 01:34:38,577 Oh, God. 1280 01:34:38,579 --> 01:34:40,679 I'm so happy. 1281 01:34:40,681 --> 01:34:42,515 Yeah. 1282 01:34:42,517 --> 01:34:45,454 I'm so happy. 1283 01:34:46,587 --> 01:34:47,821 Well, okay. 1284 01:34:47,823 --> 01:34:50,924 I'll see you, I'll see you in like six hours or something. 1285 01:34:50,926 --> 01:34:53,160 And I'll see you soon, yeah. 1286 01:34:53,162 --> 01:34:54,928 Yeah, okay, I love you. 1287 01:34:54,930 --> 01:34:56,830 Thank you so much, I appreciate you. 1288 01:34:56,832 --> 01:34:57,930 I love you too. 1289 01:34:57,932 --> 01:34:59,499 You're, you're the best. 1290 01:34:59,501 --> 01:35:01,100 And I appreciate you and I'm really proud of you. 1291 01:35:01,102 --> 01:35:02,672 Yay. 1292 01:35:04,105 --> 01:35:05,438 I don't know. 1293 01:35:05,440 --> 01:35:06,939 I don't, I don't think the mountain looked that scary this morning. 1294 01:35:06,941 --> 01:35:10,076 It's funny because it does look the same and hiking up looked the same, 1295 01:35:10,078 --> 01:35:12,211 everything just felt pretty much the same, except I just didn't have 1296 01:35:12,213 --> 01:35:14,648 much of a backpack. 1297 01:35:14,650 --> 01:35:16,849 I did, I forgot my rope and rack. 1298 01:35:16,851 --> 01:35:18,452 I felt so good. 1299 01:35:18,454 --> 01:35:20,953 I mean that's why I'm so happy that the experience was like what I hoped for. 1300 01:35:20,955 --> 01:35:23,523 I didn't compromise on any of the things that were super important to me. 1301 01:35:23,525 --> 01:35:25,895 Huh, yeah, that felt good. 1302 01:35:26,662 --> 01:35:28,461 All right. 1303 01:35:28,463 --> 01:35:30,899 So what's next, what are you gonna do Alex? 1304 01:35:31,100 --> 01:35:32,666 Mmm, I'm probably gonna hang board. 1305 01:35:32,668 --> 01:35:34,137 You're gonna hang board? 1306 01:35:34,803 --> 01:35:37,906 A normal person would probably take the afternoon off. 1307 01:35:49,485 --> 01:35:51,518 Thanks again for coming out and climbing with me. 1308 01:35:51,520 --> 01:35:52,853 I'm really proud of you. 1309 01:35:52,855 --> 01:35:55,057 Good work not plummeting to your death. 1310 01:35:55,857 --> 01:35:57,627 Really glad it's over. 1311 01:35:58,927 --> 01:36:02,732 Oh, my gosh, you're here, oh, my God! 1312 01:36:04,833 --> 01:36:08,838 Oh, my gosh, I'm so happy for you, you did it and you're done. 1313 01:36:10,806 --> 01:36:12,872 You know some of the people that have come before you, 1314 01:36:12,874 --> 01:36:15,541 they, they didn't quit while they were ahead. 1315 01:36:15,543 --> 01:36:16,943 Maybe it's good. 1316 01:36:16,945 --> 01:36:19,549 Maybe I don't need to keep charging ahead. 1317 01:36:20,048 --> 01:36:23,049 Right now there's some kid that just read about El Cap being soloed and he's like. 1318 01:36:23,051 --> 01:36:24,550 "What's bigger?" 1319 01:36:24,552 --> 01:36:26,085 Like "What's cooler?" 1320 01:36:26,087 --> 01:36:28,889 And I mean somebody's gonna think of something and it's gonna be cooler. 1321 01:36:28,891 --> 01:36:33,062 But I don't know if that will be me. Maybe, I don't know. 1322 01:36:38,557 --> 01:36:43,557 Subtitles by explosiveskull 114687

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