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On Argentina's eastern coast, a vast,
parched desert collides with a brutal ocean.
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Here, nature truly shows its teeth.
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Some of the planet's most iconic species
battle the elements...
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and each other.
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Adapting to survive.
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Producing some of the greatest shows on
Earth.
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On this wild and extreme coast of
Patagonia.
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Stretching over 3,000 kilometers.
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From Bolivia to Cape Horn.
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Argentina is South America's second
largest country.
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And it's also a land of extremes.
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From lush rainforests.
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To parched deserts.
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Giant wetlands.
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To the towering peaks of the Andes.
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This variety of habitats...
support a vast array of wildlife.
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Making it one of the most biodiverse
countries on the planet.
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But its most spectacular animals lie here.
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In the remote and wild region of
Patagonia.
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On the isolated beach of Punta Loma.
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A large colony of sea lions are
basking... in Patagonia's summer sunshine.
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This coast is home to around 100,000
southern sea lions.
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One of the largest populations in South
America.
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Sea lions sometimes travel hundreds of
kilometers from the coast...
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in search of food.
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But this colony live here all year round.
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Playing and feeding in Patagonia's rich,
shallow waters.
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Within the colony are smaller groups.
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Each made up of multiple females.
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Dominated by a single male.
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Up to three times their size.
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Unlike seals.
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They can't hunt or walk.
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Seal lions can walk on their flippers.
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But these colonies are so crowded.
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Finding a clear path can be difficult.
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The sea lions are the only species in the
Middle East.
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They not only protect their territory with
force...
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but also surround it with a large ocean.
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The
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males protect their territory with force.
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They are out to find their wildebeests.
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And during the mating season, fights can
be brutal.
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And so usually, younger males live
elsewhere, in bachelor groups.
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But this one has decided to try his luck.
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Venturing towards the females, while
the bigger bulls have their backs turned.
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But he doesn't make it far.
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Maybe one day, he'll be big enough to
fight back.
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But for now, he wisely backs off.
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But it isn't just the bulls the sea lions
need to be wary of.
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There are much bigger carnivores lurking
in these waters.
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Orcas.
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Killer whales have
developed some of the most
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sophisticated hunting techniques
seen among marine mammals.
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Often working together to capture prey.
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They are the only cetacean
to routinely hunt marine
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mammals, and are even
capable of killing other whales.
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Here in Patagonia, seal pups and young sea
lions are their staple diet.
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But the smaller, more
agile sea lions can
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easily outmaneuver a
killer whale in the water.
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So catching one requires a savage,
but risky hunting technique.
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Ambushing the sea lions on land.
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This
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Patagonian shoreline is one of only two
places in the world where killer whales
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regularly strand themselves to catch their
prey.
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But get it wrong, and the whales will be
unable to wriggle back into the water.
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Slowly dying as their bodies collapse
under their own immense weight.
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So today, these adults
are here to teach their
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young orcas the dangerous
hunting technique.
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Here in Peninsula Valdez,
at low tide, this colony of
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sea lions are protected by
shallow reefs and sandbars.
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Frolicking at the water's edge, the
sea lions appear to be taunting the orcas.
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Enjoying the protection of the bay.
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But these waters aren't as safe as they
seem.
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These lethal predators are called killer
whales for good reason.
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They know this beach has a huge tidal
range.
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And as it changes, the South Atlantic
quickly floods a hidden channel.
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Allowing the orcas to swim in.
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Here in Patagonia, during
the breeding season, these
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beaches are littered with
newborn sea lion pups.
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It's a rich but risky food source.
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So the adult whales spend
time training their young how
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to purposely beach themselves
without becoming stranded.
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Even when there are no pups around.
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First, the adults demonstrate how to get
close to the orcas.
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To be close enough to catch a seal pup.
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To beach two thirds of their body.
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Then, using the next wave to wriggle back
into deeper water.
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They then force the young orcas to beach
themselves.
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Teaching these skills demonstrates
extremely high intelligence.
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And illustrates why killer whales are the
ocean's top predator.
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With the sea lion pup season months away.
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The elephant seals basking at the water's
edge appear to believe they aren't at risk.
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But today, the orcas have changed the
rules.
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Launching a surprise attack.
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Propelling itself onto the shore.
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This adult orca takes a large seal.
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Hauling it back into the water.
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It would be enough to feed the whole pod.
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But he doesn't kill it.
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Instead, the orca delicately carries the
seal to the center of the bay.
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Then...
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Surprisingly...
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He lets it go.
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The injured seal heads for shore.
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00:12:23,140 --> 00:12:26,200
But then the orca's terrifying game
begins.
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The injured seal is caught and released.
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Over and over again.
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Each time the seal believes it has a
chance of escape.
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The pod corral it back to deeper water.
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And once it's been exhausted by the
adults...
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The youngest orca is now trained on how to
strike its prey in the water.
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The seal's torture continues for hours.
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Before finally being put out of its
misery.
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But as the sun sets...
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The lagoon is emptying fast.
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And the pod must now retreat to the ocean.
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Or risk becoming stranded on the sand.
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Now, against the clock... The adult
shepherds her pod over the sandbar.
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Right past the onlooking sea lions.
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For now... This lagoon offers
them a safe harbour once more.
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Patagonia's rugged coastline...
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Carves its way over sixteen hundred
kilometres from north to south.
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But one twelve kilometre stretch of its
sandstone cliffs...
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Is home to the largest parrot
population... Anywhere on earth.
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More than seventy thousand...
Patagonian conures...
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Make their nests in these sheer cliffs.
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Parrots are more usually associated...
With South America's dense forests.
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00:15:23,130 --> 00:15:29,450
But in this coastal habitat... A unique
adaptation... Has allowed them to thrive.
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After squabbling...
Over prime position...
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These birds...
Burrow their way...
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Up to four metres into the sandstone...
Using their tough beaks... Just like an axe.
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These burrows protect their eggs...
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Allowing more young to survive.
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00:16:00,860 --> 00:16:04,361
But they also use their
beak... For preening.
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Vital for removing the inevitable parasites...
From living in such a huge colony.
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00:16:14,360 --> 00:16:18,100
And the enormous numbers of
birds... Nesting in these cliffs...
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Also has a direct
effect... On the landscape.
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The thousands of nests here...
Destabilise the soft rock of the cliffs...
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And leave them exposed... To much faster
erosion... By Patagonia's wind and waves.
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00:16:43,320 --> 00:16:48,960
But Patagonia's coastal terrain... Has
been shaped by many natural forces.
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00:16:50,580 --> 00:16:56,780
And one exerts its power...
From over 1500 kilometres away.
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The western coast of this
remote wilderness... Is flanked...
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By the world's longest mountain range.
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Rising steeply from the Pacific...
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The Andes force air upwards...
Draining all moisture from the skies...
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On their western slopes.
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Leaving a parched,
desiccated desert... To the east.
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This arid land... Stretches all the
way... To Argentina's eastern coast.
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Where it is battered... By
some of the world's largest...
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And some of the most
powerful... Seas on Earth.
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Fueled by strong
winds... And huge storms...
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The southern Atlantic... Bombards these
cliffs... With waves... Over 12 metres high.
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Carving out a landscape...
Unlike anywhere else on Earth.
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But despite such extreme conditions...
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This is one of nature's...
Richest ecosystems.
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Both on land...
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And in the sea.
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The waters of southern Patagonia...
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And its surrounding islands...
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Are home to almost 2 million...
Southern rockhopper penguins.
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That brave these tumultuous
waves... Every day...
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To get back to dry land.
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But survival...
Surviving this battering...
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Is the easy part.
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Now they need to climb hundreds of
metres...
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To the safety... Of
their clifftop nests.
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But a potentially deadly obstacle...
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Lies in their path.
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A colony... Of fur seals.
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Seals are one of the penguins' main
predators.
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And hundreds now stand... Between
these birds... And the hungry chicks...
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Waiting at the top of the cliff.
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The seal's teeth...
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Can quickly dispatch a rockhopper.
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But not today.
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For some reason this seal colony...
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Have accepted these penguins.
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Letting them pass through peacefully.
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On their way to their nests.
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Sometimes however...
The penguins push their luck.
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Luckily he gets away with it.
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00:21:08,510 --> 00:21:11,350
But another obstacle now lies ahead.
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The 100 metre long... A
little pause... and we are back.
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A little pause... and we are back.
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00:22:11,620 --> 00:22:15,937
Full of fish from their
hunting exploits, the
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00:22:15,938 --> 00:22:20,380
rockhoppers must also
navigate two-metre-high grass.
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All the way back to their colony.
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Battling through the crowd, he first
reacquaints himself with his mate,
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00:22:46,260 --> 00:22:49,280
then feeds his single surviving chick.
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00:22:52,680 --> 00:22:54,760
Rockhoppers, Rockhoppers, they lay two
eggs.
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00:22:55,080 --> 00:23:00,960
But like in almost every nest,
the first smaller egg failed to hatch.
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00:23:04,880 --> 00:23:09,540
In such a battle for space, there often
isn't enough to go round.
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00:23:28,330 --> 00:23:32,530
Starvation isn't the only threat to the
chicks up here on the cliffs.
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Weaker birds will often be taken by
Patagonia's aerial predators.
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00:23:40,130 --> 00:23:41,050
But they're not the only predators.
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00:23:41,051 --> 00:23:43,771
They're also predators that lurk on the
edge of its penguin colonies.
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00:23:54,730 --> 00:24:01,290
In an amazing display of natural instinct,
thousands of pregnant elephant seals
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00:24:01,291 --> 00:24:07,931
arrive on the Argentinian coast, just
days before they're due to give birth.
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00:24:14,060 --> 00:24:18,180
This female has spent an 11-month
gestation at sea,
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feeding several thousand kilometers away.
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00:24:25,800 --> 00:24:28,460
And she needed to build up her energy.
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00:24:28,700 --> 00:24:32,060
She will not feed for the duration of the
breeding season.
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00:24:40,200 --> 00:24:44,180
As she gives birth, gulls lurk menacingly.
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00:24:45,540 --> 00:24:46,540
I'm ready.
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00:24:48,400 --> 00:24:49,140
On her feet.
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00:24:49,141 --> 00:24:50,141
On her feet.
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00:24:54,330 --> 00:24:55,410
On her feet.
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00:25:09,110 --> 00:25:11,570
But it isn't the pup they're after.
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00:25:12,610 --> 00:25:14,190
It's the placenta.
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00:25:27,700 --> 00:25:31,060
This newborn pup weighs 40 kilos.
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00:25:32,600 --> 00:25:37,133
It will be nursed by its
mother for around 23 days,
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00:25:37,134 --> 00:25:41,740
gaining almost 7 kilos every
day from the fat-rich milk.
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00:25:44,100 --> 00:25:46,080
And they need to grow fast.
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00:25:46,440 --> 00:25:50,780
Their mothers will desert them when they
are less than a month old.
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00:25:53,060 --> 00:25:55,400
But it's little wonder they want to leave.
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00:25:56,860 --> 00:26:02,560
Having just given birth, the breeding
season is a brutal time for the females.
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00:26:05,020 --> 00:26:08,480
These are some of the most sexually
dimorphic mammals.
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The largest males can weigh up to 10 times
as much as females,
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00:26:19,710 --> 00:26:22,370
making them impossible to fight off.
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00:26:36,680 --> 00:26:40,380
Only the dominant male is allowed to breed
in his domain.
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00:26:43,220 --> 00:26:47,900
And once he's successfully mated with all
the females, the sexually mature females,
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00:26:48,980 --> 00:26:53,620
the beach master bull decides it's time to
leave.
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00:27:03,020 --> 00:27:09,800
But the females must remain until their
pups are fully weaned, opening a short
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00:27:09,801 --> 00:27:13,980
window of opportunity for other males
hoping to reproduce.
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00:27:20,860 --> 00:27:26,460
This sub-adult is searching for any
females that haven't already mated.
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00:27:28,600 --> 00:27:34,800
But in his desperation, he is targeting
very young, immature seals.
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00:27:38,140 --> 00:27:43,700
This tiny seal won't be ready to produce
her own pups for another few years.
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00:27:46,800 --> 00:27:51,620
And even this less dominant male is ten
times her size.
230
00:27:59,180 --> 00:28:02,580
And all the other females can do is watch.
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00:28:20,820 --> 00:28:25,820
But despite his size, she can't outrun
him.
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00:28:26,940 --> 00:28:30,754
And no matter how many
times she tries to escape,
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00:28:30,755 --> 00:28:33,960
he doesn't want to let
this opportunity slip away.
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00:28:38,680 --> 00:28:41,460
The biggest males are so dominant...
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00:28:42,500 --> 00:28:44,420
...that less than 10% of them...
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00:28:44,440 --> 00:28:48,620
...of male elephant seals will
successfully mate in their lifetime.
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00:28:53,820 --> 00:28:57,080
Using his sheer weight and powerful
bite...
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00:28:57,640 --> 00:29:00,660
...he repeatedly attempts to mate with
this young female.
239
00:29:04,760 --> 00:29:08,560
But he's inexperienced and she isn't
receptive.
240
00:29:15,800 --> 00:29:21,000
Now battered and bleeding... ...the
young seal is becoming exhausted.
241
00:29:36,070 --> 00:29:38,660
But after yet another failed attempt...
242
00:29:41,240 --> 00:29:45,520
...she spots her chance and makes a dash
for the water.
243
00:30:00,540 --> 00:30:03,680
And as the older seals have already
learned...
244
00:30:03,681 --> 00:30:07,660
...amongst the waves, she'll have more
chance of evading him.
245
00:30:12,460 --> 00:30:14,440
And just in time...
246
00:30:16,040 --> 00:30:19,780
...she makes it safely to the water.
247
00:30:23,800 --> 00:30:26,920
And for this male... ...his
attempt to reproduce...
248
00:30:27,700 --> 00:30:28,700
...drifts away.
249
00:30:37,260 --> 00:30:40,000
The southern tip of Patagonia's coast.
250
00:30:41,700 --> 00:30:43,220
This archipelago...
251
00:30:44,100 --> 00:30:46,300
...is known as Tierra del Fuego...
252
00:30:47,200 --> 00:30:48,580
...the Land of Fire.
253
00:30:52,240 --> 00:30:57,400
But this entire region... ...was
actually carved... ...by ice.
254
00:31:16,840 --> 00:31:21,121
At its southernmost point...
...Cape Horn... ...Antarctica...
255
00:31:21,440 --> 00:31:23,600
...is just a thousand kilometers away.
256
00:31:25,040 --> 00:31:30,020
And even in the height of summer...
...Tierra del Fuego's glaciers...
257
00:31:30,021 --> 00:31:32,420
...continue to shape the landscape.
258
00:31:40,290 --> 00:31:45,390
Around 9,000 years ago... ...the ocean
broke through the tip of this continent...
259
00:31:46,170 --> 00:31:50,930
...completely isolating Tierra del
Fuego... ...from mainland Patagonia.
260
00:31:53,930 --> 00:31:58,030
But despite the harsh climate...
...this close to the South Pole...
261
00:31:59,070 --> 00:32:04,390
...the planet's most notorious
seabird... ...makes these cliffs its home.
262
00:32:08,130 --> 00:32:11,910
With a wingspan of almost...
...two and a half meters...
263
00:32:13,990 --> 00:32:19,030
...this black-browed albatross...
...will spend years at a time at sea.
264
00:32:21,920 --> 00:32:25,780
But has returned here...
...for the breeding season.
265
00:32:27,940 --> 00:32:31,240
Along with almost 200,000 others.
266
00:32:35,810 --> 00:32:40,030
These birds are found on cliffs...
...right across the Southern Ocean.
267
00:32:43,180 --> 00:32:45,800
Although often solitary when at sea...
268
00:32:46,560 --> 00:32:49,080
...albatross pairs mate for life.
269
00:32:57,440 --> 00:32:59,620
And like many penguins...
270
00:33:00,520 --> 00:33:04,980
...their beak clattering... ...is
all part of their courtship ritual.
271
00:33:09,610 --> 00:33:12,530
Reacquainting themselves...
...after spending the year...
272
00:33:12,531 --> 00:33:14,390
...thousands of kilometers apart.
273
00:33:40,000 --> 00:33:43,300
They usually return... ...to
the same nests each year.
274
00:33:46,180 --> 00:33:47,620
Raising a single chick...
275
00:33:48,060 --> 00:33:50,320
...in a solid pillar-like structure.
276
00:34:01,040 --> 00:34:05,640
The chicks remain on their
nest... ...for around four months.
277
00:34:06,640 --> 00:34:09,600
Being fed by the parents once a day...
278
00:34:10,520 --> 00:34:12,040
...on regurgitated fish.
279
00:34:20,540 --> 00:34:24,420
And these young birds...
...need to build their strength.
280
00:34:27,720 --> 00:34:29,380
In just a few weeks...
281
00:34:29,800 --> 00:34:31,180
...they will have one chance...
282
00:34:31,500 --> 00:34:32,860
...to launch themselves...
283
00:34:33,680 --> 00:34:35,820
...safely from these sheer cliffs.
284
00:34:42,340 --> 00:34:44,620
And once they take flight...
285
00:34:45,500 --> 00:34:47,800
...they won't return to land...
286
00:34:48,400 --> 00:34:50,260
...for at least two years.
287
00:35:22,010 --> 00:35:23,590
Late November...
288
00:35:24,270 --> 00:35:26,330
...on the northern Patagonian coast.
289
00:35:27,370 --> 00:35:32,670
And the thousands of Magellanic
penguins... ...are still in their burrows.
290
00:35:34,510 --> 00:35:36,110
And for good reason.
291
00:35:41,110 --> 00:35:46,970
Like most of the penguins here...
...this bird laid a clutch of two eggs...
292
00:35:46,971 --> 00:35:48,350
...forty days ago.
293
00:35:58,110 --> 00:36:02,870
They've been incubated... ...by
both adults... ...taking shifts...
294
00:36:02,871 --> 00:36:04,230
...of around two weeks.
295
00:36:16,400 --> 00:36:19,060
While the other bird...
...searches for food.
296
00:36:23,080 --> 00:36:26,340
The first egg... ...is
now ready to hatch.
297
00:36:36,820 --> 00:36:38,520
It's a slow process.
298
00:36:40,720 --> 00:36:43,581
And the mother must keep
it warm... ...as it emerges.
299
00:36:53,430 --> 00:36:58,210
The first chick... ...hatched...
...roughly two days before the other.
300
00:37:01,450 --> 00:37:03,350
It is therefore larger...
301
00:37:03,550 --> 00:37:06,831
...and better able to obtain
food... ...from the parents.
302
00:37:18,190 --> 00:37:19,550
Once hatched...
303
00:37:20,025 --> 00:37:21,290
...the young penguins...
304
00:37:21,590 --> 00:37:22,590
...are brooded...
305
00:37:23,050 --> 00:37:24,130
...for around a month.
306
00:37:28,190 --> 00:37:30,791
There's only one
thing... ...on the menu.
307
00:37:31,830 --> 00:37:32,880
Regurgitated fish.
308
00:37:40,820 --> 00:37:42,680
Often the second chick...
309
00:37:42,905 --> 00:37:44,300
...will die from starvation.
310
00:37:45,820 --> 00:37:46,900
But this mother...
311
00:37:47,150 --> 00:37:48,180
...is doing her best...
312
00:37:48,380 --> 00:37:49,380
...to share equally.
313
00:37:52,660 --> 00:37:56,080
At around four weeks
old... ...these chicks...
314
00:37:56,280 --> 00:37:57,440
...will be left unattended...
315
00:37:57,920 --> 00:38:00,560
...as both parents...
...head out to hunt.
316
00:38:02,180 --> 00:38:05,260
But unless... ...there is an
overabundance... ...of fish...
317
00:38:05,385 --> 00:38:06,860
...this smaller chick...
318
00:38:07,310 --> 00:38:08,350
...will probably perish...
319
00:38:08,700 --> 00:38:11,795
...before it ever gets a
chance... ...to leave the nest.
320
00:38:19,880 --> 00:38:22,361
By February...
...in Patagonia...
321
00:38:22,580 --> 00:38:26,620
...it's time for Magellanic... ...Penguin
chicks... ...to fend for themselves.
322
00:38:27,680 --> 00:38:30,361
The adult penguins...
...have now molted...
323
00:38:31,660 --> 00:38:34,360
...and are restless...
...to get back in the ocean.
324
00:38:36,940 --> 00:38:41,660
Right now... ...algae blooms... ...big
enough... ...to be seen from space...
325
00:38:41,661 --> 00:38:43,280
...are attracting billions...
326
00:38:43,520 --> 00:38:46,341
...of fish... ...to Patagonia's...
...northern waters.
327
00:38:48,500 --> 00:38:53,800
In turn... ...these shoals... ...attract
predators... ...from all directions.
328
00:39:01,770 --> 00:39:04,430
But with so many predators...
329
00:39:05,050 --> 00:39:08,730
...even this many fish...
...won't last forever.
330
00:39:11,920 --> 00:39:15,900
The penguins... ...must move
now... ...if they are to follow...
331
00:39:15,901 --> 00:39:17,120
...the shoals northward.
332
00:39:19,260 --> 00:39:23,720
This could be the last time... ...these
penguins will touch... ...dry land...
333
00:39:23,721 --> 00:39:25,300
...for six months.
334
00:39:31,630 --> 00:39:35,870
And despite being... ...perfectly
adapted... ...to their life at sea...
335
00:39:37,090 --> 00:39:39,350
...many will not return at all.
336
00:39:42,730 --> 00:39:45,191
Patagonia's vast
array... ...of penguins...
337
00:39:45,830 --> 00:39:48,910
...attract a predator...
...just as agile.
338
00:39:53,140 --> 00:39:54,200
Sea lions.
339
00:39:58,200 --> 00:40:01,520
In Patagonia... ...wherever
you find penguins...
340
00:40:02,300 --> 00:40:05,240
...you will usually find...
...these deadly hunters.
341
00:40:08,220 --> 00:40:10,700
On this island...
...just off the coast...
342
00:40:11,320 --> 00:40:13,580
...this colony of Gentoo penguins...
343
00:40:14,340 --> 00:40:16,760
...must enter the water...
...to feed their chicks.
344
00:40:28,150 --> 00:40:29,890
And this sea lion knows it.
345
00:40:34,120 --> 00:40:38,920
As they edge... ...towards the water...
...he attempts... ...to catch them on land.
346
00:40:47,060 --> 00:40:48,260
He causes confusion...
347
00:40:48,760 --> 00:40:50,200
...scattering the group.
348
00:40:50,780 --> 00:40:54,181
But here... ...he is
slow... ...and clumsy.
349
00:40:57,860 --> 00:40:59,040
But in the water...
350
00:40:59,840 --> 00:41:01,460
...he'll be a deadly assassin.
351
00:41:04,640 --> 00:41:07,320
So he decides...
...to lie in wait...
352
00:41:07,900 --> 00:41:11,301
...knowing the penguins... ...must
eventually risk... ...entering the water.
353
00:41:15,960 --> 00:41:16,960
Cautiously...
354
00:41:17,800 --> 00:41:19,280
...they make their move.
355
00:41:29,100 --> 00:41:30,540
These Gentoo's...
356
00:41:30,860 --> 00:41:33,140
...are the fastest...
...swimming birds on earth.
357
00:41:36,260 --> 00:41:39,460
But the sea lion... ...is
more than their equal.
358
00:41:47,070 --> 00:41:49,190
There may be...
...safety in numbers...
359
00:41:52,280 --> 00:41:53,200
...in the water.
360
00:41:53,201 --> 00:41:55,600
...but the sea lion
works... ...to split the pack.
361
00:42:14,650 --> 00:42:19,550
And this Gentoo...
...is now in his sights...
362
00:42:28,640 --> 00:42:30,400
...and his fate...
363
00:42:33,400 --> 00:42:34,860
...is sealed.
364
00:43:07,120 --> 00:43:15,910
From the glaciers... ...of Tierra
del Fuego... ...to the arid... ...desert...
365
00:43:15,911 --> 00:43:23,510
On the beaches of the north, Argentina's
Patagonian coast is a land of extremes.
366
00:43:27,870 --> 00:43:33,830
Stretching over 1,600
kilometers, this remote and often
367
00:43:33,831 --> 00:43:40,010
inhospitable corner of the
earth attracts millions of animals.
368
00:43:42,690 --> 00:43:50,690
They must battle this region's harsh
conditions and each other in order to
369
00:43:50,691 --> 00:43:56,950
survive and even thrive in this unique
habitat.
31271
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