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The end of the Arctic summer and the sun hasn't set for
three months. It's hard to imagine the bitter cold will soon
return.
Some will welcome the chills of autumn, but for most, time
is running out before they will have to retreat to the
south.
Early autumn in the Canadian Arctic, and polar bears are
gathering on the coastal strip, waiting for the sea to
freeze.
But a life spent alone on the sea ice is no preparation for
a crowded beach. Such close contact with other bears must be
stressful. Surely tempers will flare.
Over half a ton of bear slams into the other.
Polar bears will fight to the death over mates, but not in
autumn. Now, these fearsome predators display a surprisingly
tolerant side to their natures. Being marooned on land means
the bears no longer have access to the seals they usually
hunt, and they have to scrape by on whatever they can find.
But the bears are still looking for food. Like bears the
world over, they're not choosy feeders. They even turn
vegetarian, delicately picking out berries from between the
thorns.
There are plenty to go around, so there's no need to squabble over them.
Any fighting is just for fun.
The bears select spawning partners who are well-matched, and
they always pull their punches. No-one wants to get hurt in
a play fight. No-one
wants to get hurt in a play fight. Perhaps these bouts are
a way of testing rivals in case they ever meet again out on
the sea ice.
One thing's for sure, the famous loners are
revealing a social, playful side we rarely see.
It's all just boisterous fun, but with so many big males
around, the females keep their cubs at a safe distance.
The wary mother will lead her young to a quieter beach
along the coast while she waits for the ocean to freeze.
The sea ice is now at its minimum extent. In the Canadian
Arctic, vast stretches of coastline are now unlocked and
ready to receive visitors.
Belugas, the white whales of the north. They're
relying on open water to reach an ancient rendezvous.
It's a journey they make every year along traditional routes.
It's a journey they make every year along traditional
routes. It's a journey they make every year along
traditional routes. Baby belugas ride piggyback, pulled
along by their mother's slipstream. This one is only a month
old and won't turn white for another five years.
Thousands of belugas are being drawn to one special estuary in the Canadian Arctic.
It isn't food that brings them here.
Curiously, it's personal hygiene.
When the tide is low, they swim into the
shallows and flail around with great enthusiasm.
They're after a body scrub.
The gravel acts as a loofah, and thrashing their
bodies across it helps to get rid of their old skin.
Presumably, the treatment keeps them clean and
streamlined, but it also appears to feel good.
This is the skin of a beluga. The water in the estuary is
warmer and less salty, and that seems to soften the skin,
making the scrub more effective.
This secluded estuary is only a temporary whale spa. The
ocean will soon freeze again, forcing the whales to travel
south.
Vast seabird colonies are the jewels of the Arctic.
Brunell guillemots have spent the summer months packed
together on vertical cliffs beyond the reach of predators.
They are among the most numerous seabirds in the Northern
Hemisphere, the most common species of bird species in the
Arctic. This colony alone contains 100,000 birds, and
there are many more like it all along the Arctic coastline.
In just a few weeks, these cliffs will empty, but before
the guillemots can leave, their chicks must fledge. Their
feathers are now fully formed, but their stubby wings are
still too short for them to fly properly. This will be a
challenge.
It's a 150-metre drop, and they need to make it all the way to the sea. Here goes.
He falls short and survives the crash landing.
The chicks are manna from heaven for an arctic fox.
The next chick is accompanied by a parent.
Veiled by the gullet, they land again.
This looks better.
Success.
Aquatic landings are certainly gentler, and foxes can't reach you out here.
The chicks will stay in their parents' care for another month.
The guillemots are not the only ones preparing to leave. All
across the Arctic, millions of summer visitors are beginning
to return south.
The guillemot chicks can't fly yet, so they and their
families must swim to their winter feeding grounds. It's a
journey that will take them 1,000 miles south to
the open ocean and away from the approaching ice.
The breeding season is over, and silence returns to the Arctic.
But as the first storms of autumn sweep through the deserted
nesting grounds, they bring an unexpected bonanza for the
few that remain.
The discovery doesn't remain secret for long.
The gullet is a bit too small for them to reach.
It's a huge fin-whale carcass. The polar bears have been
drawn from several miles away, guided by their extraordinary
sense of smell.
Bears are arriving all the time, but there's plenty of room
at this 18-meter-long dining table. The gullet is a bit too
small for them to reach,
but they're surprisingly relaxed. But with
enough for everyone, there's no need to argue.
The tastiest morsels are often underwater.
Others prefer some greens with their dinner.
After a well-balanced meal, there's nothing better than some good company.
Despite their reputation as loners, it's
surprising just how sociable polar bears can be.
The gullet is a bit too small for them to reach,
but there's plenty of room at this 18-meter-long dining
table. All across the Arctic, the temperature is now
dropping, and the sea is beginning to freeze. Every day,
over 20,000 square miles of ocean turn to ice as the cold
spreads south.
At first, a thin, greasy film appears on the surface.
Next, pancakes of ice start to appear.
The pancakes lock together and form a continuous sheet.
The Arctic Ocean is freezing again.
At last, the bear family can return to the sea ice where they belong.
It's been six months since the cubs first emerged from the
den. They've survived the hazards of melting sea ice in
spring and lack of food in summer, and now, at last, they
are in their element again. The cubs are now back in the
den.
As the north of our planet turns away from the sun, the big chill travels south.
Temperatures on the tundra start to fall.
The shorter days and colder nights trigger a dramatic change
in the willows and blueberry bushes. They stop producing the
green pigment that harnesses the sun's energy and
red and yellow pigments build up in their leaves.
The tundra blazes with colour and the whole landscape is transformed.
A bull muskox marks his territory with scent from the glands
on his face. He's preparing for the breeding season. He
shadows his harem of females as they graze the last
of the summer grasses. The harem of the female harem,
he must be on his guard.
An outsider is arriving, a large male whose intentions soon become clear.
The newcomer circles the resident bull warily. The
resident must take up the intruder's challenge.
The harem of females This clash of polar titans
could easily become a fight to the death.
The impact is like a car crash at 30 miles an hour.
A heavy skull and a helmet of horn four inches thick
provides some protection for the muskox's brain.
Over the next half hour, the advantage ebbs and flows as
each tries to finish the duel. If one can turn the other and
gore its flank, the fight will be over.
The stakes rise as the risk of injury or even death increases.
The rival is outmaneuvered. And the champion returns to his females.
By now, most animals have migrated south, but the harem of
the female harem is still on the run. The muskoxen, with
their thick coats, will stay and face the approaching winter.
As autumn progresses, the moisture in the air
freezes and hoarfrost decorates the leaves.
Ice crystals grow like diamonds on every twig.
The harem of the female harem is still on the run.
All across the tundra, both the rivers and the ground freeze solid.
The harem of the female harem is still on the run. Glassy
cathedrals form as the remaining water becomes locked up as
ice.
Soon, even the largest waterfalls will be motionless.
The tundra has been transformed once again. It appears deserted.
Caribou on their migration. Unlike the muskox, caribou do
head south for the winter, but it's a long and difficult
journey. They use the frozen lakes as ice roads. These are
flat and firm, but it seems hooves and ice were never really
meant to go together.
The frisky males would be well advised to keep at
least one eye on the road as the mating season begins.
A cow is being closely guarded. By a mature bull with his much larger antlers.
The females are busy feeding up for the winter, but the bull
has other things on his mind. The cow is playing hard to
get. She heads off with her admirer in pursuit.
Several other bulls join in the chase.
She's out in front, but the amorous males are gaining on her.
The big bull breaks off his chase to deal with a rival.
But now he's fallen behind the other challengers.
The younger bulls with their lighter antlers keep up with
the cow more easily, but as the pace slows, the younger
bulls are getting closer. The older bull
catches up. Again, he has to stop and fight.
A decisive victory for the big male. He's earned the respect
of the vanquished bulls and they now trail in his wake. It's
now become a game of grandma's footsteps. One look from
the boss... and the young bloods freeze in their tracks.
The exhausted bull guards his prize, but he'll need to
recover before he's able to make the most of his victory.
And the herd continues its journey south to avoid the worst of the advancing cold.
From the ocean to the tundra, the north of our planet is now completely frozen.
The Antarctic. In the far south, autumn can be a
particularly savage season. It's a strange and unpredictable
time.
South Georgia is a splinter of rock in the middle of
the vast southern ocean. It's only 100 miles long and is
battered by the elements.
This ocean generates some of the largest waves on the
planet. They gain size and power as they travel around the
globe, uninterrupted by land, for 12,000 miles.
As they buffet south Georgia, they also bring food.
A seal carcass.
A prize worth braving the surf for. Giant petrels are the
vultures of Antarctica and are always the first to the
spoils.
The word is out and the hordes move in.
Like feathered dinosaurs, they lock beaks in battle.
Aargh! Arrgh!
Arrgh!
These butchers provide a service for some unlikely meat eaters.
With the carcasses now opened, pint-tailed ducks arrive for a meal.
There's plenty of good food here, and none of south
Georgia's inhabitants can afford to be fussy with winter
looming.
After the feast, it's time for a rinse and spin. Rinse and
spin. The breeding season is finally over, and the petrels
will soon be heading out to sea to avoid the worst of the
winter.
The snowstorm is an omen of things to come.
There is now little left to eat, and south Georgia's beaches
will soon be abandoned to the cold and ice. The snowstorm is
coming to an end.
It's time to go home. Further south still, and the
first storms are striking the continent of Antarctica.
The daily penguins must rear their half-grown chicks to
adulthood before winter hits in just a few weeks' time.
The chicks are only three weeks old. Their downy coats
aren't fully waterproof yet, and they cluster together for
warmth.
These creches are essential during bad weather, as most of
the adults are away at sea, fishing for their fast-growing
families.
When the parents return, their offspring quickly leave the comfort of their peers.
Both chicks are ravenously hungry.
But there may be only enough food for one. This race
could determine which chick has the better prospects.
Most of the daily pairs will only manage to raise a single chick each season.
And this may not be it.
At least number one is getting stronger by the day.
With one meal delivered, the parents must quickly find another.
To rear their chicks before the onset of
winter, the penguins must work round the clock.
The parents can travel over 100 miles to reach the best
fishing grounds and may be gone for several days at a time.
They return with a kilogram of fish and squid in their
bellies, feed their chicks, and then go off again to repeat
the process.
The job must be finished before the sea freezes over.
At seven weeks old, the chicks are losing the last of their
baby down and are now fully equipped to take the plunge.
Confidence is all that's lacking. Perhaps it'll help if the parents lead by example.
There. Effortless and as graceful as any fish.
It seems penguins are not born with a love of water.
Staying submerged is the next problem.
Buoyancy control is clearly a skill that needs practice.
Well, it's a start.
And at least they can now reach the ice floes.
Swimming is the first of many lessons. They must
next learn to recognise danger in all its forms.
A leopard seal.
Even high up on an ice floe, the penguins aren't safe.
They're not afraid of danger. Each year, leopard seals will
take 5,000 of them from this colony alone.
The Odalis that survive drift out into the Southern Ocean.
They will spend the next five months feeding at sea,
avoiding the great freeze that is about to envelop
Antarctica.
The edge of the sea ice advances by up to 2.5 miles a day.
Eventually, over 5 million square miles of ice will surround
the continent of Antarctica, effectively doubling its size.
The great white wilderness is empty. But not for long.
Bizarrely, it's now that the emperor penguins
arrive, just as all the other penguins have left.
They are now at their heaviest. They've been
feeding at sea all summer and can weigh 40 kilos.
They are now at their heaviest.
They are now at their heaviest. From the edge of the sea
ice, they head towards their colony. But an obstacle course
of jumbled ice blocks stands in their way.
This will be crucial for their survival in the months
ahead, but it doesn't make squeezing through narrow gaps any
easier.
With the worst behind them, they start a 20-mile march into
the freezer to breed. The only animals to do so. They are
now at their heaviest.
By tobogganing, they can travel at twice their
walking speed and it takes the weight off tired feet.
Their destination is the thicker ice closer to shore, which
will stay solid long enough for them to safely rear their
chicks throughout the months to come.
Their colony is in the lee of icebergs, trapped in the
frozen ocean, which will shelter them from the cold. They
will shelter them from the bitter Antarctic winds.
Newly formed pairs promenade together.
Quatship demands that both partners strike and hold a
variety of poses. It's an important process, as the bond
between the couple will have to be an exceptionally strong one.
The final act lacks the elegance of the prelude, but at least it's quick.
The egg is laid a few days later. It contains the females'
last reserves. The egg is laid a few days later. She now has
nothing more to give and must pass the egg to the male to incubate.
The couple must be quick. If the egg rests on the ice for too long, it'll freeze.
With their eggs safe in the care of the males, the
females start the long journey back to the sea.
The sun is also leaving and will be gone for many months.
The precious eggs, balanced on the males' feet,
will make the terrible ordeal ahead worthwhile.
The eggs are laid a few days later. With no food and only
each other for warmth, they will attempt to keep the next
generation alive while surviving in the most brutal conditions on Earth.
Not all of them will succeed.
At both ends of our planet, the sun sets for the last time
in autumn. A season of change comes to an end and one of
endless darkness and bitter cold begins.
THE EMPEROR PENGUINS The spectacular return of the Emperor
Penguins was a key event for the frozen planet team.
The crew will have to operate in the most dangerous of all
polar environments, the edge of the sea ice. They have to
fly in everything they'll need for a month of living on the frozen ocean.
On board are slow-motion cameraman John Acheson, underwater
cameraman Didier Noirot and director Chaddon Hunter.
With the plane gone, the team are on their own. This is home
for the next month, but it doesn't look like much right now.
Their tents should be secure on the permanent sea ice, but
they're still miles from the ocean where they hope to film.
The locals are keen to get acquainted with anything of a
familiar shape and size. The emperors are welcome neighbours
around the camp. But the team need to film them returning
from the water, and to do that, they face a daunting task.
They must find a path to the open sea through a shifting
landscape of jagged sea ice. Their first scouting trip
doesn't look promising. Neither MAPS nor SATNAV are any help
in this ever-changing environment. The only clue that the
ocean lies somewhere to the east is a steady procession of
penguins. Any suggestions, Didier? We must find our way.
Yes. And we will find our way. I like the attitude. Penguins
have found a way. It seems the emperors will be the key to
reaching the ice edge. OK, let's go. With their penguin
guides leading the way, snowmobiles are brought in to haul
500 kilograms of equipment through the icy maze. It's tough
going for film crew and penguins. When the ice ridges halt
progress, it's time for some backbreaking work.
The next three days are spent chiselling through mile after mile of broken sea ice.
Once finally clear of the ice boulders, they spot
their goal, a patch of open ocean with penguins.
John is first in position. He hopes to capture the most
striking images by using a computerised slow motion camera
but attempts to film the penguins underwater are halted
by an unwelcome visitor. We just saw the head of a massive
leopard seal. So we'll get closer to see what's going on. We
must be careful because those guys can come out very quickly
out of the hole and give a bite. But being red like that, we
should be quite protected, you know. Being dressed in red,
maybe Didier is not. It's not this idea of safety, but the
rest of the crew have a healthy respect for leopard seals.
They can be fiercely territorial and are not afraid to attack humans.
That's very exciting. That's the first time I've ever seen
a leopard seal in my life. And he's come straight out of the
hole and starts kind of walloping towards us. So a lot of
adrenaline. With the seal frightening the penguins away and
hassling the crew, it's time to try a new hole.
Oh, hello. Can you see him?
While the seal is around, there's little hope of filming
the penguins, but now a far greater threat is posed by the
changing weather. That dark headland in the distance is Cape
Washington. That's our last sign of mainland. We can't see
anything else. And once we lose sight of that mainland, that
means we're out here on our own on the sea ice. And this
visibility is getting lower and lower. It's started snowing
and this wind is just blowing offshore. So if all this ice
heads out, we don't want to be on it. So I
think we're going to can filming for the day.
All signs suggest that a big Antarctic storm is on its way.
Winds pick up to 70 miles an hour and everyone retreats to their tents.
High winds then turn to heavy snow. On the driest continent
on Earth, a big snowfall is rare. Whiteout conditions take
the penguins and the film crew by surprise.
Each day they must dig out their buried equipment. Filming has ground to a halt.
One week and a metre of snow later, the headland is visible
again and the team are raring to get back to the ice edge.
They follow their old route back through the frozen maze and
with no leopard seal in sight, it's time for another attempt
with the pole cam. It's cumbersome, but it allows the team
to capture underwater images without having to risk the icy
water themselves.
That is okay? That's perfect. They are coming, I can see
some. Oh, wow! Penguins coming in the hole, this is awesome,
this is great. The aim now is to film the penguins'
dramatic exit from the hole. The only problem, which hole?
These penguins keep outsmarting us. We tried to switch
holes to film them coming up and of course they all just
completely came up behind us. Whatever the crew try,
there's always someone who hasn't read the script.
John has been filming, but he can't view his slow-motion
shots until they're downloaded to a computer. While he
waits, Didier seizes his chance. Come, my friend, come. If
you can't beat them, join them. It's time to go scuba diving
in the coldest waters on the planet. I will see you on the other side.
The team are 300 miles from help and have only
a small hole as their lifeline to the surface.
A magical world opens up. For the first time, Didier now
shares the penguins' perspective from beneath the ice.
This is Antarctica at its most enchanting. For Chaddon,
after weeks of struggle, the sequence, quite literally,
falls into his lap.
Sorry. I think I'm in the way.
Oh, there's the blue coming from.
I think it was run over by a penguin. I think it worked.
It's very difficult to tell. John's camera is finally
capturing these super slow-motion images of the emperor's dramatic return.
With the penguins performing perfectly, it was all
falling into place. The team were finally able to capture
Antarctica's most spectacular belly flop.
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