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Palau, a remote and tiny
island chain near the equator,
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is home to one of the world's
richest reef ecosystems.
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It is also home to giants.
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Massive Second World War
wrecks harbor dark secrets on the
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ocean floor. I turn around,
there's a huge monster wreck
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behind me. My heart went
whoop. Undersea trenches, deep
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enough to swallow mountains,
offer a glimpse into the abyss.
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The old phrase that we know
more about the surface of the
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moon and Mars than we know
about the bottom of the ocean
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holds true. And large and
mysterious creatures soar through
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its azure waters. You turn
around and all you see is these
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big gaping mouths coming
out of the blue. It's basically
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like a mouth with wings on
it coming at you. Here, in this
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land of the giants.
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At the southern end of the
Palau Islands, near a dive site
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called German Channel, Manta
researcher Mandy Eppteson
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prepares to descend into the blue.
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During the German occupation
of Palau prior to the First
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World War, miners blasted
and dredged a channel here to
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create a shipping route
between the islands. Today, strong
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currents carry plankton to the
mouth of the channel, making
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it an ideal feeding site for one of the
ocean's most graceful and gentle giants.
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The manta ray. One of the
largest creatures in the sea
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survives by feeding almost
entirely on one of the smallest.
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It's sort of like a bottleneck,
so the plankton gets
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concentrated here, and that's
why it's famous for mantas. So
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we're hoping to see mantas,
obviously, and if we're lucky,
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maybe a new individual that
hasn't been recorded yet so we
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can add it to our database.
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Mandy began the Palau Manta
ID project in 2009, identifying
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each animal by the spots on
its belly. The spot formation on
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a manta is as unique as a
fingerprint. We started taking
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pictures of the bellies to
identify the mantas, and trying
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to show, especially Palau
government, that we don't need
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to hurt the animals or tag
them to be able to find out more
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about them. We've identified
over 280 right now. Five years
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ago, nobody would have believed
we have that many mantas in
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Palau. A simple ID project
can do a lot. By tracking the
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numbers and movements of
mantas, Mandy and the UK-based
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Manta Trust can identify any
population decline caused by
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illegal fishing, and whether
or not tourism may be driving
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mantas away from German Channel.
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Tourism is on the rise in
Palau, a collection of more than
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200 islands, nearly 1,000
miles east of the Philippines, in
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the western Pacific Ocean.
The tourists that flock here to
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explore its natural wonders
contribute about $125 million to
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the economy, more than
half of Palau's gross domestic
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product. Hundreds of miles
of sky-blue ocean surround the
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archipelago.
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Limestone islands, blanketed
in thick and pristine jungle,
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rise like mushrooms from the
sea. They appear to be floating
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gardens.
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Scuba divers from across
the globe are drawn to Palau for
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what lies beneath the emerald
lagoons. One of the world's
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richest reef ecosystems.
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These coral gardens overflow
with 1,500 species of fish,
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500 species of coral, and
more than 100 species of sharks
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and rays. Palau's seas may
contain more species of marine
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life than anywhere else on
Earth, and provide researchers
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an exceptional window into
a vanishing underwater world.
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The explosion of marine life
here is due to marine geology.
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Palau sits on the tip of an
underwater mountain that formed
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70 million years ago. Far
below the island peaks, currents
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crash against the drowned
mountain, then surge upward,
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carrying the nutrients that
underpin the oceanic food chain.
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There is another reason
for the sheer numbers of fish
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that throng these waters.
Palau has a long history of
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conservation.
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For centuries, Palauans
have lived in harmony
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with the sea, never taking
more than they needed.
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In 2009, Palau created
the world's first shark
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sanctuary. Making it illegal
to catch sharks in its seas.
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Then in 2014, it expanded
its conservation efforts
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and banned all foreign
fishing within its waters.
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Palau is now home to the
world's largest marine sanctuary,
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a swath of protected ocean
nearly the size of California.
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Marine law officers
patrol the Palauan seas,
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on the lookout for
illegal fishing vessels.
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As a result, the big fish that
have been all but wiped out
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in some areas of the Pacific
are still very much alive in
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Palau.
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Hefty gray reef sharks.
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Five-foot-long Napoleon wrasses.
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And of course, manta rays, the
marine giants that patrol these seas.
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Though smaller than their
oceanic cousins, reef mantas
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are still among the largest
fish in the sea. They have an
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average wingspan of 11 feet
and reach weights of more than
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3 ,000 pounds. Mantas have
exceptionally large brains,
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specifically the region
responsible for hearing, touch and
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vision. They are highly social
and curious about humans.
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If you've been diving a
long time, you interact with
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different animals. You can
see the difference, for instance,
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between a guppy or a Napoleon
wrasse. In a Napoleon wrasse,
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you can tell there's somebody
home, there's an intelligent
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being in there. And it's the
same with mantas. When you
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look at them and you start
realizing they're actually, in my
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opinion, they can recognize
certain dive guides. They will
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go over a dive group and go
straight for the dive guide. And
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especially the newborn
mantas, they will play with divers
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when it's not too crowded.
You can see it's an intelligent
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animal, like a dog or a
cat, and they can learn.
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At German Channel, mantas
swim against the current to feed
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on large concentrations of
plankton swept into the channel
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entrance.
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Fins curving around its face direct
water into the manta's large open mouth.
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You turn around and all you
see is these big gaping mouths
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coming out of the blue. It's
basically like a mouth with
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wings on it coming at you.
It's an amazing sight. Tissue
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between the manta's gills sift
tiny crustaceans and plankton
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from the water. A manta is
like a giant filtering machine
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capable of vacuuming up more
than 400 pounds of plankton in
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a single week.
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At times, manta feeding can
be a dizzying display. Depending
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on the current and the wind
direction, sometimes they'll
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feed by themselves and
roll. They call it barrel rolling.
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It's like an underwater
ballet. Really nice to watch.
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The manta may look like
it's chasing its tail, but by
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rolling, it pushes more
plankton into its waiting mouth.
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When the current is strong,
usually right before a full
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moon, mantas adopt an
entirely different but equally
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captivating feeding strategy
known as train feeding.
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So you can get anywhere
from 2 to 20 or 200, if there are
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that many, feeding together
in a train, which is an amazing
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sight. And they'll just
keep going back and forth
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across the line where
the plankton gets trapped.
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One of the largest creatures
in the sea, mantas are also
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one of the most mysterious.
Research into their mating and
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birthing behaviour has
barely begun. For hundreds of
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years, mantas were simply
known as devil fish, due to their
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imposing size and bat-like
appearance. But they're very,
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very gentle. When the current
is strong, sometimes when
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you're taking photos or
video, it's very hard to stay out
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of their way, especially when
there's that many of them. So
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when you're freediving and
you dive down to take a picture,
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they'll come straight at you
and sometimes you get thrown in
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their path, basically. And
they'll just very gently lift
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their wing and try not to
touch you. They're very careful
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with people, which is amazing. They
could just slap you if they wanted to.
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Mandy believes that
physically tagging
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mantas can cause harm
to these gentle giants.
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A mantis' skin is like rubber,
and wounds can take years to
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heal. Even though they might
be able to recover from it, it
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leaves scars. And by
photographing the mantas at German
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Channel, we've seen how
long it can take for those scars to
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heal. By photographing them
every season, you can start
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seeing those results. So we
prefer to not do actual tagging.
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Previous tagging studies
enabled scientists to track the
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movement of mantas. Photo
IDs can't do that, but Mandy has
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developed an alternative
that is unveiling more secrets
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of their behavior. She places
time-lapse cameras at the
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cleaning stations, spots on
the reef where small fish rid
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the mantas of dead skin
and parasites. It takes pictures
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every 10 seconds or 30 seconds,
and normally we put four or
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five around the cleaning
station. And then when you pick it
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up, you've got thousands of
pictures to go through. In the
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previous year, Mandy was able
to identify 44 new mantas from
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thousands of time-lapse photos.
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It's a lot of effort, but
worth it in the end. Because
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instead of acoustic tagging
where you can just see a beep
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how many times a manta
passed by, you can actually see the
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manta and what they're doing,
and learn about their behavior
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at the same time without
hurting them. Mantas are curious
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creatures and will closely
inspect the cameras left behind
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on the reef. When we put the
time-lapse cameras, we start
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realizing that they're
immediately aware of something
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changing in their cleaning
station. So they come up to the
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cameras and they unfold their
cephalic flaps, which are sort
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of like feelers for them also.
So they're doing like this to
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the camera to see like, what
is this thing that's sitting on
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my cleaning station?
So those are the kind of
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things you would never
find out any other way.
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Today at German Channel,
one of the busiest manta
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sites in Palau, there are
no mantas to be seen.
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Currents, which should be
incoming based on the moon cycle,
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have switched to outgoing,
which means no plankton is
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flowing into the channel,
and that means fewer mantas.
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Mandy spots something on
the bottom, a feather-tailed
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stingray, buried up
to its eyes in the sand.
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Finally, she sites a large male manta.
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It's one called Uncle
Fester, a regular at German
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Channel that has fed
here for at least 10 years.
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On this day, Mandy sites
just three other mantas. One
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pregnant female already
logged in the database, and two
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others that passed by without
stopping at the cleaning station.
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Mantas may be large,
but they are dwarfed by
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another giant living
in the waters of Palau.
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It's Barrier Reef.
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Coral reefs are the world's
largest living structures, made
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up of millions of tiny plant-like
animals known as coral
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polyps. Reefs begin when
a polyp attaches itself to a
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surface on the ocean floor,
then divides into thousands of
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clones, which secrete a
calcium carbonate skeleton.
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Together, the polyps act as
a single, immense organism.
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Coral reefs are always growing.
When coral dies, it leaves
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behind the rock-like skeleton.
The next generation of coral
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grows on the old skeleton. Coral
reefs are the rainforests of the sea.
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They cover fewer than 2% of
the ocean floor, and yet they
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provide food and shelter for
about one quarter of all ocean
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species. One billion people
depend on coral reefs for food
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and income from fishing and
tourism. Reefs also provide
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protection from hurricanes
and typhoons. The Palau Reef,
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believed to have formed about
two million years ago, may be
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the most essential giant in these waters.
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The bone-white beaches
of the low-lying rock islands
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are built from sand
that originated as coral.
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Reef animals like this
parrotfish feed on coral
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and algae that grows
on the surface of the reef.
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The parrotfish's hard,
beef-like teeth bite off
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not just the coral, but
its hard skeleton as well.
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The pulverized hard coral
material ingested by the fish
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passes through its digestive
system and is deposited back
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into the ocean in clouds
of fine white coral sand.
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One parrotfish can produce 200
pounds of sand in a single year.
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These rock islands, built by
coral sand and topped by lush
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00:18:10,950 --> 00:18:15,440
and untouched Pacific
jungle, are a major tourist draw.
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Palau is a country of
just 20,000 people. In
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2015, it received more
than 150,000 visitors.
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This tiny island nation is
struggling to find a balance
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between the profit tourism
generates and its impact on the
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reef.
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The research that we're
doing is to look at the sites that
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are visited by tourists and
to try to look at their impact
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on the reef communities,
including the corals and
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the fish and the animals
that live around the reef.
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Today we're trying to look to
see the impacts of snorkelers
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00:19:36,500 --> 00:19:40,920
on shallow coral reefs. So
with Palau's tourism boom, we've
227
00:19:40,920 --> 00:19:44,589
seen an increase of tourists
on our snorkeling reefs and a
228
00:19:44,601 --> 00:19:48,220
lot of them, as we've
noticed, have very little or little
229
00:19:48,220 --> 00:19:52,001
confident swimming skills.
So we want to see if that has
230
00:19:52,013 --> 00:19:55,940
any impact on the corals
and if they're breaking corals or
231
00:19:55,940 --> 00:19:58,480
standing on them. And the effects of that.
232
00:20:02,780 --> 00:20:07,552
To determine the health of
the coral at this site, Evelyn
233
00:20:07,564 --> 00:20:12,100
uses a sampling square
called a quadrat. She throws it
234
00:20:12,100 --> 00:20:15,260
randomly 50 to 60 times at a given site.
235
00:20:18,200 --> 00:20:22,860
When the quadrat lands on the lagoon floor,
she photographs the area within the frame.
236
00:20:26,320 --> 00:20:30,032
Researchers study the photos
for evidence of coral damage
237
00:20:30,044 --> 00:20:33,960
and compare the sample photos
taken at busy snorkeling sites
238
00:20:33,960 --> 00:20:37,240
with those taken at sites
untouched by tourists.
239
00:20:40,800 --> 00:20:44,660
Initial research by Dr. Golbu's
team reveals that the reefs
240
00:20:44,672 --> 00:20:48,480
at crowded snorkeling sites
are dominated by broken coral,
241
00:20:48,520 --> 00:20:53,787
which seriously threatens
the health of the reef. But the
242
00:20:53,799 --> 00:20:59,260
team is studying more than
just corals today. Gary is going
243
00:20:59,260 --> 00:21:03,020
to be counting fish today.
He's one of our experts at the
244
00:21:03,032 --> 00:21:07,000
Coral Reef Center. He knows
a lot of our fish species, their
245
00:21:07,000 --> 00:21:11,286
common names, their Palau
names, as well as their Latin
246
00:21:11,298 --> 00:21:15,980
names. So what he will do is
he will go and measure any fish
247
00:21:15,980 --> 00:21:19,477
that comes within a five meter
radius of him, which is what
248
00:21:19,489 --> 00:21:22,940
we call a stationary fish
count. So he'll stay in one spot
249
00:21:22,940 --> 00:21:26,443
for three minutes and he'll
count any commercially important
250
00:21:26,455 --> 00:21:29,740
fish that comes in that five
meter radius and then write
251
00:21:29,740 --> 00:21:31,440
down their sizes in centimeters.
252
00:21:34,300 --> 00:21:37,401
The fish count, like the
reef survey, is designed
253
00:21:37,413 --> 00:21:40,340
to assess the impact
of tourism on the lagoon.
254
00:21:43,400 --> 00:21:46,342
Although it's prohibited, tour
operators have been known
255
00:21:46,354 --> 00:21:49,360
to feed fish to attract them
to tourist snorkeling sites.
256
00:21:52,900 --> 00:21:57,958
Hand-feeding fish makes them
associate humans with food and
257
00:21:57,970 --> 00:22:03,040
can interfere with their natural
feeding cycles. This study
258
00:22:03,040 --> 00:22:06,058
will help determine the
effect fish feeding has had
259
00:22:06,070 --> 00:22:09,100
on both the size and
numbers of fish in the lagoon.
260
00:22:11,840 --> 00:22:16,142
On a global level,
coral reefs face a threat
261
00:22:16,154 --> 00:22:20,660
far greater than tourism.
Ocean acidification.
262
00:22:25,180 --> 00:22:27,890
Humans have produced
more and more carbon dioxide
263
00:22:27,902 --> 00:22:30,460
emissions through the
burning of fossil fuels.
264
00:22:35,700 --> 00:22:39,354
More than one quarter of
carbon dioxide pumped into the
265
00:22:39,366 --> 00:22:43,360
atmosphere is dissolved into
the oceans, where it upsets the
266
00:22:43,360 --> 00:22:46,260
chemical balance, making water more acidic.
267
00:22:49,240 --> 00:22:53,492
The acidification threatens
the survival of the animals on
268
00:22:53,504 --> 00:22:57,840
the reef. The skeletons of
most marine organisms, including
269
00:22:57,840 --> 00:23:02,008
crustaceans and fish, are
made from calcium carbonate.
270
00:23:02,020 --> 00:23:06,200
If the acidity of the water
increases, there are fewer
271
00:23:06,200 --> 00:23:10,493
carbonate ions in the water,
and it becomes harder for these
272
00:23:10,505 --> 00:23:14,740
animals to form a skeleton.
Acidity can be increased to the
273
00:23:14,740 --> 00:23:19,497
point where even coral can no
longer make a skeleton. Even
274
00:23:19,509 --> 00:23:24,440
before that stage, the struggle
to make a skeleton can leave
275
00:23:24,440 --> 00:23:28,556
coral weak and vulnerable.
You might have a coral, but it's
276
00:23:28,568 --> 00:23:32,420
not strong, and it's able to
clear a storm and it would
277
00:23:32,420 --> 00:23:36,085
break. Or you would have
very high bioerosion. A lot of
278
00:23:36,097 --> 00:23:39,840
other organisms would be
able to live inside and break a
279
00:23:39,840 --> 00:23:43,664
skeleton of a coral. It's
yet another threat on the
280
00:23:43,676 --> 00:23:47,880
Palau Barrier Reef that was
already stressed by reckless
281
00:23:47,880 --> 00:23:53,988
overfishing. For decades,
foreign fishing vessels plundered
282
00:23:54,000 --> 00:24:00,120
these seas, brutally raking
fish from the reef. The reef is
283
00:24:00,120 --> 00:24:03,768
an ecosystem, and you need
corals and you need fish. And if
284
00:24:03,780 --> 00:24:07,440
you take all the fish from
the system, then it would affect
285
00:24:07,440 --> 00:24:11,230
the reefs. It would affect its
health and its recovery from
286
00:24:11,242 --> 00:24:14,980
disturbance. And so that is
one of the main issues that we
287
00:24:14,980 --> 00:24:18,358
need to ensure that we
still have enough fish in
288
00:24:18,370 --> 00:24:21,760
the reef to allow the
reef function to continue.
289
00:24:36,640 --> 00:24:42,515
Not all of Palau's reefs are
two million years old. Some are
290
00:24:42,527 --> 00:24:48,220
relative youngsters that can
be traced back just 70 years,
291
00:24:48,600 --> 00:24:51,740
to a time when battles raged
over Palau's tropical waters.
292
00:24:57,920 --> 00:25:01,702
At the bottom of Malacal
Harbor, a massive,
293
00:25:01,714 --> 00:25:05,680
broken skeleton appears
slowly from the blue.
294
00:25:09,560 --> 00:25:13,977
It is the Iroh, a Japanese
Navy tanker that met its doom
295
00:25:13,989 --> 00:25:18,340
during the Second World
War, when U.S. airplanes rained
296
00:25:18,340 --> 00:25:20,420
explosives on the Japanese fleet.
297
00:25:28,000 --> 00:25:32,321
Over the decades, the
Iroh has transformed into an
298
00:25:32,333 --> 00:25:36,920
artificial reef, providing
shelter for prey, food for
299
00:25:36,920 --> 00:25:41,773
predators, and a breeding
ground for the hard and soft
300
00:25:41,785 --> 00:25:47,180
corals that have taken hold
of the ship. She's a spectacular
301
00:25:47,180 --> 00:25:51,573
wreck to dive now. She is
teeming with life. And it's just
302
00:25:51,585 --> 00:25:56,140
an amazing wreck dive because
you have all that history, you
303
00:25:56,140 --> 00:25:59,806
have all that drama of the
sinking of the vessel, and now
304
00:25:59,818 --> 00:26:03,560
70 years plus later, you
look at it and it's just the most
305
00:26:03,560 --> 00:26:09,087
beautiful, spectacular reef
there is around there. The
306
00:26:09,099 --> 00:26:14,940
Iroh sits upright in its watery
grave, 130 feet below the
307
00:26:14,940 --> 00:26:15,400
surface.
308
00:26:19,000 --> 00:26:24,885
It's a colossal wreck, nearly
500 feet long, weighing
309
00:26:24,897 --> 00:26:31,340
upwards of 14,000 tons, and
remains largely intact, except
310
00:26:31,340 --> 00:26:33,891
for the damage caused
when a massive explosion
311
00:26:33,903 --> 00:26:36,520
in the engine room sent
the ship to the bottom.
312
00:26:39,920 --> 00:26:48,300
On the bow sits a turret gun, its barrel
an armored shield draped in soft coral.
313
00:26:52,940 --> 00:26:56,700
Wrecks like the Iroh provide
a stable setting for coral.
314
00:26:59,440 --> 00:27:02,288
Corals spawn in the
water column. Eggs are
315
00:27:02,300 --> 00:27:05,360
carried by the current
and can land anywhere.
316
00:27:08,540 --> 00:27:12,586
The shallow depth, warm
water, and relative stillness of
317
00:27:12,598 --> 00:27:16,940
this lagoon make an ideal
breeding ground for the algae that
318
00:27:16,940 --> 00:27:18,700
cements coral reefs together.
319
00:27:23,080 --> 00:27:27,720
The Iroh is alive with
stony staghorn coral,
320
00:27:32,480 --> 00:27:40,000
ivory tube sponges, and
321
00:27:40,000 --> 00:27:41,640
black coral trees.
322
00:27:46,200 --> 00:27:50,540
Fish make their home on
or near the wreck as well.
323
00:27:53,460 --> 00:27:54,860
Clouds of fry,
324
00:27:59,160 --> 00:28:04,140
lionfish, and
325
00:28:04,140 --> 00:28:05,760
pacific spadefish.
326
00:28:11,160 --> 00:28:15,260
Three masts reach toward
a distant sky and provide
327
00:28:15,272 --> 00:28:18,820
an ideal surface for
sun-seeking organisms,
328
00:28:21,120 --> 00:28:23,900
including huge colonies
of bubble tip anemones.
329
00:28:28,400 --> 00:28:32,059
A close relative of both
jellyfish and coral, the bubble
330
00:28:32,071 --> 00:28:36,000
tip anemone is equipped with
sweeping venom-filled tentacles
331
00:28:36,000 --> 00:28:38,440
that ensnare passing prey.
332
00:28:42,360 --> 00:28:47,452
The slightest touch triggers
the tentacles, which inject a
333
00:28:47,464 --> 00:28:52,740
paralyzing neurotoxin into
its victim. But not to the tomato
334
00:28:52,740 --> 00:28:57,388
clownfish nestled inside its
tentacles. To defend itself and
335
00:28:57,400 --> 00:29:02,060
ensure it has enough to eat,
the bubble tip anemone forms an
336
00:29:02,060 --> 00:29:07,013
unlikely alliance. A layer
of mucus on the clownfish's
337
00:29:07,025 --> 00:29:11,720
skin makes it immune to
the anemone's lethal sting.
338
00:29:15,060 --> 00:29:18,983
It's a symbiotic relationship.
The anemone protects the
339
00:29:18,995 --> 00:29:23,140
clownfish from predators and
snacks on its leftover meals.
340
00:29:25,060 --> 00:29:28,429
In return, the clownfish
drives off intruders
341
00:29:28,441 --> 00:29:31,160
and cleans the
anemone of parasites.
342
00:29:37,460 --> 00:29:40,924
The coral-encrusted
Iroh is just one of more
343
00:29:40,936 --> 00:29:44,180
than 60 Second World
War wrecks in Palau.
344
00:29:48,240 --> 00:29:52,798
In March 1944, U.S. Navy
planes appeared high above the
345
00:29:52,810 --> 00:29:57,380
islands, bombarding the
Japanese fleet with rockets and
346
00:29:57,380 --> 00:30:00,940
torpedoes and sending most
of its vessels to the bottom.
347
00:30:05,220 --> 00:30:11,798
The coordinated attack was
codenamed Operation Desecrate 1.
348
00:30:11,810 --> 00:30:18,180
In September 1944, the island
of Peleliu was the scene of
349
00:30:18,180 --> 00:30:22,370
one of the bloodiest battles
of the Second World War. U.S.
350
00:30:22,382 --> 00:30:26,300
Marines made an amphibious
assault on these beaches to
351
00:30:26,300 --> 00:30:30,987
liberate the island from
Japanese forces. Fighting lasted
352
00:30:30,999 --> 00:30:35,780
for months and took the lives
of 10,000 Japanese and 1,800
353
00:30:35,780 --> 00:30:36,940
American soldiers.
354
00:30:39,680 --> 00:30:43,758
Today, the island is surreally
peaceful, although scattered
355
00:30:43,770 --> 00:30:47,860
amid the lush vegetation are
the reminders of past horrors.
356
00:30:50,860 --> 00:30:54,980
A crippled Japanese fighter
plane reclaimed by the jungle.
357
00:30:58,760 --> 00:31:02,840
A gutted U.S. Marine landing
craft corroded by the elements.
358
00:31:05,580 --> 00:31:09,343
And sobering memorials to
the thousands, Japanese and
359
00:31:09,355 --> 00:31:13,620
American, that spent their final
moments on what was once an
360
00:31:13,620 --> 00:31:14,540
island paradise.
361
00:31:23,500 --> 00:31:26,705
Francis Torabiang is a
native Palauan who grew
362
00:31:26,717 --> 00:31:30,140
up on the islands in the
years following the war.
363
00:31:35,400 --> 00:31:39,310
He founded Palau's first
dive operation and, in the
364
00:31:39,322 --> 00:31:43,320
1980s, helped discover more
than 30 Japanese wrecks.
365
00:31:46,780 --> 00:31:50,860
Including the 285-foot-long Chuyo Maru.
366
00:31:56,280 --> 00:32:03,100
Like the Iro, it sits upright and is
overgrown with corals, sponges and oysters.
367
00:32:08,600 --> 00:32:13,562
The Chuyo Maru was a coastal
freighter sent to the bottom
368
00:32:13,574 --> 00:32:18,720
during Operation Desecrate 1
and discovered by Torabiang in
369
00:32:18,720 --> 00:32:19,760
1989.
370
00:32:23,040 --> 00:32:27,385
I followed the anchor line
down and there's nothing there.
371
00:32:27,397 --> 00:32:31,680
I turn around, there's a huge
monster wreck behind me. My
372
00:32:31,680 --> 00:32:36,598
heart went whoop. I got
scared. Actually I got a little bit
373
00:32:36,610 --> 00:32:41,540
scared because it's a huge
thing right behind me. I did not
374
00:32:41,540 --> 00:32:46,858
see it because I was going
down this way. That was exciting.
375
00:32:46,870 --> 00:32:52,200
I mean, that completely changed
my way of diving. Today when
376
00:32:52,200 --> 00:32:57,251
I take people diving, I don't
try to explain everything. I
377
00:32:57,263 --> 00:33:02,240
talk about safety, the depth,
time, and how you go around
378
00:33:02,240 --> 00:33:06,051
this wreck. And I tell them,
that's good enough. I don't
379
00:33:06,063 --> 00:33:10,020
want to go beyond that. Why?
I say I want you to have that
380
00:33:10,020 --> 00:33:15,625
excitement like I do. I want
you to have that feeling. It's
381
00:33:15,637 --> 00:33:21,160
hard to explain, but when
things are in the water for last
382
00:33:21,160 --> 00:33:29,960
50-some years, 70 years, and then the first
time you go, it's a really exciting dive.
383
00:33:36,840 --> 00:33:41,780
The Chuyo Maru shares its
watery grave with a mystery ship.
384
00:33:45,440 --> 00:33:49,703
Its true name remains unknown.
No records of the ship can be
385
00:33:49,715 --> 00:33:53,920
found in Japanese Navy
archives. Though like most wrecks in
386
00:33:53,920 --> 00:33:56,814
Palau, it was sunk
along with most of the
387
00:33:56,826 --> 00:33:59,940
Japanese fleet during
Operation Desecrate 1.
388
00:34:04,160 --> 00:34:07,988
Today, it's known simply as
the Helmet Wreck, or Depth
389
00:34:08,000 --> 00:34:11,980
Charge Wreck, for the dozens
of bombs found in its hold.
390
00:34:14,320 --> 00:34:18,366
Divers are warned not to
touch any of the charges. Many
391
00:34:18,378 --> 00:34:22,580
of Palau's wrecks are laden
with live ammunition that can
392
00:34:22,580 --> 00:34:27,306
explode if disturbed. In
fact, it's illegal for divers to
393
00:34:27,318 --> 00:34:32,220
take anything from Palau's
sunken historical treasures. The
394
00:34:32,220 --> 00:34:37,188
Depth Charge Wreck is a trove
of Second World War artifacts.
395
00:34:37,200 --> 00:34:42,180
The cylinder poking out of the
wreck is a clinometer used to
396
00:34:42,180 --> 00:34:45,660
measure the height of clouds
to predict incoming storms.
397
00:34:48,380 --> 00:34:53,792
These sake bottles and a corroded
Japanese gas mask are grim
398
00:34:53,804 --> 00:34:59,140
reminders that men died here
in what is now a living museum
399
00:34:59,140 --> 00:35:04,471
of the sea. When I take the
Japanese diving there, I can
400
00:35:04,483 --> 00:35:10,200
see they have a goose bump.
They tell me a little bit eerie.
401
00:35:13,520 --> 00:35:17,778
That's the way they do. I
respect that. So it's a part
402
00:35:17,790 --> 00:35:22,060
of history and part of our
relationship with Japan and
403
00:35:22,060 --> 00:35:26,509
something that people need
to understand that we need to
404
00:35:26,521 --> 00:35:31,060
respect other people. These
once mighty wrecks won't last
405
00:35:31,060 --> 00:35:36,324
forever. Saltwater corrodes
and eats away at the steel
406
00:35:36,336 --> 00:35:41,420
skeletons. Eventually, the
lagoon will swallow these
407
00:35:41,420 --> 00:35:41,920
remains.
408
00:35:49,260 --> 00:35:53,588
Over the eons, saltwater
erosion has also carved stunning
409
00:35:53,600 --> 00:35:57,640
caverns and tunnels into
Palau's limestone geography.
410
00:36:05,360 --> 00:36:11,104
Hidden 12 feet below the
surface, Chandelier Cave is one of
411
00:36:11,116 --> 00:36:16,680
the largest cave systems in
Palau. At one time, it was an
412
00:36:16,680 --> 00:36:19,960
open-air cave on the
surface of the Rock Islands.
413
00:36:23,720 --> 00:36:27,244
After the last ice age,
oceans rose, filling the
414
00:36:27,256 --> 00:36:30,720
cave with seawater and
concealing the entrance.
415
00:36:34,660 --> 00:36:38,933
Stalactites, formed from calcite
deposited by water dripping
416
00:36:38,945 --> 00:36:43,160
from the cave ceiling, hang
like glittering light fixtures,
417
00:36:43,620 --> 00:36:45,480
giving Chandelier Cave its name.
418
00:36:49,280 --> 00:36:52,830
Inside the cave, there is no
sunlight to nourish plankton.
419
00:36:56,610 --> 00:37:01,890
Free from these microscopic
organisms, the water is crystal clear.
420
00:37:10,190 --> 00:37:14,312
At Siais Tunnel, divers
drop down to enter a
421
00:37:14,324 --> 00:37:19,010
chamber that reaches
depths of more than 140 feet.
422
00:37:25,910 --> 00:37:31,743
Even this far below the
surface, sunlight penetrates
423
00:37:31,755 --> 00:37:37,710
the tunnel to illuminate
gorgeous orange sea fans and
424
00:37:37,710 --> 00:37:48,230
lionfish nibbling on soft corals. Palau is
425
00:37:48,230 --> 00:37:52,288
a jumping-off point for some
of the deepest diving in the
426
00:37:52,300 --> 00:37:56,510
Pacific. It sits atop what is
essentially a sunken mountain
427
00:37:56,510 --> 00:38:03,958
range. A steep drop-off, more
than 30,000 feet deep, fringes
428
00:38:03,970 --> 00:38:11,430
the islands. This is the Palau
Trench. It just drops off and
429
00:38:11,430 --> 00:38:14,826
it plummets into the abyss
and very, very close to shore as
430
00:38:14,838 --> 00:38:18,190
well. So people always talk
about the Marianas Trench, the
431
00:38:18,190 --> 00:38:21,821
deepest part of the planet,
Challenger Deep. That's nearly
432
00:38:21,833 --> 00:38:25,290
300 kilometers offshore.
We've got massively deep water
433
00:38:25,290 --> 00:38:30,238
within 15 or 20 kilometers
of our shoreline, so it's very,
434
00:38:30,250 --> 00:38:35,210
very unique. The Palau Trench
is deep enough to completely
435
00:38:35,210 --> 00:38:36,710
submerge Mount Everest.
436
00:38:39,890 --> 00:38:43,602
Scuba divers typically
descend about 130 feet, less
437
00:38:43,614 --> 00:38:47,410
than half of one percent
of the depth of the trench.
438
00:38:50,330 --> 00:38:54,987
Divers have only just scratched
its surface. What is known
439
00:38:54,999 --> 00:38:59,510
about what's down the Palau
Trench, honestly, very, very
440
00:38:59,510 --> 00:39:02,848
little. The old phrase that
we've all heard that we know
441
00:39:02,860 --> 00:39:06,210
more about the surface of the
Moon and Mars than we know
442
00:39:06,210 --> 00:39:10,458
about the bottom of the
ocean, holds true. Collins has
443
00:39:10,470 --> 00:39:14,730
compiled a 3D map of the
trench from satellite-derived
444
00:39:14,730 --> 00:39:19,169
gravity data and sonar
measurements collected on dives. The
445
00:39:19,181 --> 00:39:23,410
green shows the Palau
Islands, just the tip of a massive
446
00:39:23,410 --> 00:39:27,604
underwater mountain. You
can see that some of these sheer
447
00:39:27,616 --> 00:39:31,750
walls, they plummet miles,
literally miles, two or three
448
00:39:31,750 --> 00:39:35,333
miles, before they might
have a slight shelf and another
449
00:39:35,345 --> 00:39:38,750
feature. And again, before
they just plummet into the
450
00:39:38,750 --> 00:39:43,335
abyssal plain at over 9,000
meters deep. Once we look over
451
00:39:43,347 --> 00:39:47,710
the edge of that reef,
sometimes it's a little daunting
452
00:39:47,710 --> 00:39:51,635
because you have the beautiful
colors, the shallow waters,
453
00:39:51,647 --> 00:39:55,450
and you just look over and
it's literally looking down a
454
00:39:55,450 --> 00:39:58,674
cliff. And especially
knowing how deep that is, so
455
00:39:58,686 --> 00:40:02,430
sometimes it can be a little
bit daunting and a little bit
456
00:40:02,430 --> 00:40:04,750
disorientating, but
it's also a bit thrilling.
457
00:40:18,650 --> 00:40:23,599
A short boat ride from Siez
Tunnel lies a marine environment
458
00:40:23,611 --> 00:40:28,490
so spectacular, it's considered
one of the seven underwater
459
00:40:28,490 --> 00:40:30,150
wonders of the world.
460
00:40:33,710 --> 00:40:38,796
Palau is home to more than
50 marine lakes. When glaciers
461
00:40:38,808 --> 00:40:43,730
melted at the end of the
last ice age 10,000 years ago,
462
00:40:44,490 --> 00:40:48,450
ocean levels rose, filling
low-lying areas with seawater.
463
00:40:52,570 --> 00:40:57,330
Fishers and tunnels in the limestone
connect these saltwater lakes to the ocean.
464
00:41:01,490 --> 00:41:06,249
Beneath the surface of a
100-foot deep marine lake, on the
465
00:41:06,261 --> 00:41:10,790
uninhabited coral island of
El Malek, is an astonishing
466
00:41:10,790 --> 00:41:11,590
sight.
467
00:41:19,190 --> 00:41:23,540
Millions of rippling jellyfish
pack the fluorescent green
468
00:41:23,552 --> 00:41:27,990
water, their shimmering bodies
casting a luminescent glow.
469
00:41:29,450 --> 00:41:31,850
This is Jellyfish Lake.
470
00:41:34,590 --> 00:41:38,970
These golden jellyfish have thrived
in the lake for more than 10,000 years.
471
00:41:41,890 --> 00:41:46,450
In this closed system, there
are few predators, so the
472
00:41:46,462 --> 00:41:50,950
jellyfish have lost their
need to sting. They possess
473
00:41:50,950 --> 00:41:55,017
stinging cells, just not ones
powerful enough to cause
474
00:41:55,029 --> 00:41:59,330
serious harm to humans.
Getting to swim through that many
475
00:41:59,330 --> 00:42:03,303
jellyfish is a pretty weird but
wonderful experience. When
476
00:42:03,315 --> 00:42:07,030
you find a very dense patch
of them, the whole lake is
477
00:42:07,030 --> 00:42:10,192
essentially pulsating these
jellyfish, so it's very cool
478
00:42:10,204 --> 00:42:13,490
to see. They're not harmful
unless you have very sensitive
479
00:42:13,490 --> 00:42:17,390
skin. They're very soft. They're just
doing their own thing, cruising along.
480
00:42:20,570 --> 00:42:24,631
There's another, even more
remarkable way in which these
481
00:42:24,643 --> 00:42:28,930
jellyfish differ from their
cousins in Palau's nearby ocean
482
00:42:28,930 --> 00:42:33,858
lagoons. Most species of
jellyfish, like this moon jelly,
483
00:42:33,870 --> 00:42:38,810
drift serenely on ocean
currents, just as their ancestors
484
00:42:38,810 --> 00:42:41,270
have since before the age of the dinosaurs.
485
00:42:43,990 --> 00:42:48,618
The five million specimens
at Jellyfish Lake are far from
486
00:42:48,630 --> 00:42:53,430
passive. They may look like
they're drifting aimlessly, but
487
00:42:53,430 --> 00:42:59,638
in fact, they're on a journey.
Migrating almost a mile, they
488
00:42:59,650 --> 00:43:05,870
follow the same path and same
schedule every day. As the sun
489
00:43:05,870 --> 00:43:11,193
rises in the east, the jellyfish
swim toward its life-giving
490
00:43:11,205 --> 00:43:16,190
rays. They have to make
the trek to survive. The body of
491
00:43:16,190 --> 00:43:21,040
each jellyfish contains a
crop of algae, its main source
492
00:43:21,052 --> 00:43:26,170
of food. The algae processes
sunlight to produce sugar that
493
00:43:26,170 --> 00:43:31,097
feeds the jellyfish. For
hours, they swim east toward
494
00:43:31,109 --> 00:43:36,230
the sun, pumping water
through their bells and rotating
495
00:43:36,230 --> 00:43:40,976
counterclockwise to provide
even exposure to the sun for the
496
00:43:40,988 --> 00:43:45,590
algae in their bodies. Trees
that surround and shelter the
497
00:43:45,590 --> 00:43:50,591
lake also cast shadows on
the surface. The jellyfish must
498
00:43:50,603 --> 00:43:55,530
avoid the shade. They need
to absorb as much sunlight as
499
00:43:55,530 --> 00:43:59,491
possible to maximize the
energy created by the algae within
500
00:43:59,503 --> 00:44:03,410
their bells. So what they do
is they follow the sun around
501
00:44:03,410 --> 00:44:07,813
the lake, so at a given time
during the day, they'll be in
502
00:44:07,825 --> 00:44:12,390
the brightest spot of the lake
finding the most food. As the
503
00:44:12,390 --> 00:44:17,383
sun begins to set in the west,
the dense bloom of jellyfish
504
00:44:17,395 --> 00:44:22,150
reverses course and heads
back to the western shore. All
505
00:44:22,150 --> 00:44:27,169
this swimming churns up
nutrients in the water that form the
506
00:44:27,181 --> 00:44:32,130
base of the lake's food chain.
When the sun disappears into
507
00:44:32,130 --> 00:44:37,089
the horizon, the jellyfish sink
50 feet down, where nitrogen
508
00:44:37,101 --> 00:44:41,990
-rich waters help sustain the
algae in their bodies, before
509
00:44:41,990 --> 00:44:48,350
ascending to the surface before dawn,
to start their complex migration once more.
510
00:44:51,910 --> 00:44:55,437
Of Palau's 52 marine
lakes, five are home to
511
00:44:55,449 --> 00:44:58,910
persistent populations
of golden jellyfish.
512
00:45:02,970 --> 00:45:07,406
Fragile creatures, they have
shown an outstanding ability
513
00:45:07,418 --> 00:45:11,790
to adapt in these landlocked
lakes. Lakes that were once
514
00:45:11,790 --> 00:45:17,690
connected to the ocean, that defines
and sustains this tiny island nation.
515
00:45:23,570 --> 00:45:28,994
For thousands of years,
Palauans have depended on their
516
00:45:29,006 --> 00:45:34,830
coral reef for survival. It's
such a diverse habitat, so if
517
00:45:34,830 --> 00:45:38,878
we lose that, we really lost
a lot of our ocean, a lot of
518
00:45:38,890 --> 00:45:43,090
biodiversity in our ocean.
Billions of people live near the
519
00:45:43,090 --> 00:45:47,088
coast and they depend on
coral reefs. So all of those, and
520
00:45:47,100 --> 00:45:51,110
especially us on these small
islands, we would be severely
521
00:45:51,110 --> 00:45:55,834
affected and our way of
life is totally changed. It
522
00:45:55,846 --> 00:46:00,490
would be a devastation
to us not to have the reef.
523
00:46:05,910 --> 00:46:10,877
These Pacific Islanders hold
two traditions of deep respect
524
00:46:10,889 --> 00:46:15,370
for the sea. Yesterday, one
of my customers asked me,
525
00:46:15,690 --> 00:46:20,231
Francie, don't you get tired
of coming out here in the
526
00:46:20,243 --> 00:46:25,210
ocean? And I said, it's amazing.
Not one day is the same as
527
00:46:25,210 --> 00:46:31,674
another day, never the same.
The clouds, the sun, the rain,
528
00:46:31,686 --> 00:46:38,270
the wind, the tide, the movement.
So it's never the same, so
529
00:46:38,270 --> 00:46:42,928
that's why I don't get tired
of going to the ocean. In
530
00:46:42,940 --> 00:46:47,950
these protected waters that
contain more species of marine
531
00:46:47,950 --> 00:46:53,125
creatures than almost anyplace
else on earth, long lost war
532
00:46:53,137 --> 00:46:58,410
wrecks, claimed by the power
of the ocean, burst with energy
533
00:46:58,410 --> 00:47:05,590
and life. Yawning trenches
plunge into unseen depths, and
534
00:47:05,602 --> 00:47:12,670
manta rays soar, here in
this exotic land of the giants.
535
00:47:26,790 --> 00:47:28,190
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