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♪♪ [Surf Rock]
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♪♪ [Vocalizing]
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♪♪ [Fades]
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[Man Narrating]
Summer means many different
things to different people.
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00:02:39,292 --> 00:02:42,361
To some, it might mean
the thrill of a high-speed
catamaran.
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00:02:42,395 --> 00:02:46,031
Others like to float around
and soak up a few stray rays.
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00:02:46,065 --> 00:02:48,934
Still others like some kind
of inland activity.
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00:02:51,971 --> 00:02:55,107
But for us,
it's the sport of surfing!
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00:02:59,546 --> 00:03:03,115
The thrill and the fun
of the sport of surfing.
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00:03:05,318 --> 00:03:08,187
Some people like to bodysurf.
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00:03:13,526 --> 00:03:17,262
Others like to ride
a short belly board
and get a short ride.
12
00:03:21,467 --> 00:03:24,002
Still others like
a short bellyboard
and a long ride,
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00:03:24,037 --> 00:03:26,838
like George Greenough
at Santa Barbara, California.
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00:03:48,728 --> 00:03:50,696
Most surfers like
to ride a regular board...
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00:03:50,730 --> 00:03:53,365
and perform
on medium-sized waves.
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00:03:53,399 --> 00:03:57,769
Most would like to perform
as well as Australian
Nat Young here.
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00:03:57,804 --> 00:04:00,772
Or as well as American surfer
Butch Van Artsdalen.
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00:04:04,611 --> 00:04:09,147
Some surfers prefer
the hairy thrill of a big wave.
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00:04:24,130 --> 00:04:28,400
You can go right or left,
but you can't very well
do both at once.
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00:04:28,434 --> 00:04:31,870
If you do, at least
it's something commonly known
in the surfing world...
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00:04:31,904 --> 00:04:33,805
as a wipeout.
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00:04:52,325 --> 00:04:57,462
The only way to avoid
a wipeout is to take this wide
"stink bug" stance.
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00:04:57,497 --> 00:05:01,366
Spread your legs
and hang on till your trunks
rip right up the back.
24
00:05:04,637 --> 00:05:08,640
No place represents
summertime to more people
than the Hawaiian Islands.
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00:05:08,675 --> 00:05:12,944
To surfers, summer in Hawaii
means the reefs near waikiki
that break so well--
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00:05:12,979 --> 00:05:16,982
places like this spot,
about a third of a mile
out over the reef.
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00:05:17,016 --> 00:05:19,351
It's called Number Three.
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00:05:19,385 --> 00:05:21,620
Right next to Number Two.
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00:05:27,427 --> 00:05:31,730
One of the outstanding surfers
from Hawaii-- Mr. Paul Strou.
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00:05:45,712 --> 00:05:48,347
There are many places
on the reef that break
during the summer.
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00:05:48,381 --> 00:05:53,051
About 300 yards
from Number Three
is another spot called Kaisers.
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00:05:55,955 --> 00:05:59,491
Friendly surfers in Hawaii.
"Hi there, Charlie."
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00:06:01,761 --> 00:06:03,962
Conditions are ideal.
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00:06:03,996 --> 00:06:06,598
water temperature
averaging 75 degrees.
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00:06:06,632 --> 00:06:09,301
The air temperature--
75 degrees.
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00:06:11,504 --> 00:06:14,506
One of the most popular
summer breaks is
just off to one side...
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00:06:14,540 --> 00:06:18,343
of the Ala wai
Yacht Harbor entrance,
a spot called Ala Moana.
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00:06:18,378 --> 00:06:21,713
On a weekend,
you see surfboards, boats,
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00:06:21,748 --> 00:06:25,217
every imaginable thing
using the harbor entrance.
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00:06:25,251 --> 00:06:29,488
In fact,
the new sport over there
is "trolling for surfers."
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00:06:31,758 --> 00:06:34,826
If you can sort yourself out
from the boats,
you can get a great ride,
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00:06:34,861 --> 00:06:37,996
like Gene Harris
is doing here at Ala Moana.
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00:06:53,713 --> 00:06:56,681
Another outstanding surfer
from Hawaii-- Fred Hemmings.
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00:06:56,716 --> 00:06:59,184
Fred only stands up
on alternate Wednesdays,
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00:06:59,218 --> 00:07:01,686
but when he does,
he really wails.
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00:07:10,229 --> 00:07:14,132
Just across the entrance channel
from Ala Moana is another
surfing spot,
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00:07:14,167 --> 00:07:16,735
called Garbage Hole.
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00:07:16,769 --> 00:07:19,871
They built a breakwater
that cut the surf off,
but in its day...
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00:07:19,906 --> 00:07:24,810
this spot produced
some fantastic rides
for surfers like Wayne Miyata.
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00:07:24,844 --> 00:07:29,014
The ultimate thing to do
in surfing is to be actually
covered up by the wave.
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00:07:29,048 --> 00:07:32,684
And here goes Wayne
doing the ultimate thing.
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00:07:39,358 --> 00:07:43,061
This is summertime in Hawaii.
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00:07:43,095 --> 00:07:47,265
California has a lot of places
that represent summer
to a lot of people,
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00:07:47,300 --> 00:07:50,168
no place more than
this "secret spot"--
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00:07:50,203 --> 00:07:55,607
Malibu Beach, California,
famous for its Malibu
Outriggers, surfing and girls.
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00:07:55,641 --> 00:07:59,177
This a girl, and for those
of you who are maladjusted,
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00:07:59,212 --> 00:08:01,179
this is a Malibu Outrigger.
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00:08:03,549 --> 00:08:07,152
A lot of good surfers
ride in Malibu.
One of the best is Lance Carson.
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00:08:07,186 --> 00:08:09,855
Say hello to the folks, Lance.
At-a-baby.
60
00:08:13,559 --> 00:08:17,696
when Lance goes out at Malibu,
he really gives the place
a going-over.
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00:08:17,730 --> 00:08:21,967
He stays in just the perfect
spot on the wave, which is right
in front of the white water...
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00:08:22,001 --> 00:08:25,070
in the breaking part
of the wave called the curl.
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00:08:25,104 --> 00:08:28,773
The main object in surfing
is to always remain
in the curl.
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00:08:28,808 --> 00:08:33,311
Stay as close as possible
to the white water without
actually getting caught by it.
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00:08:33,346 --> 00:08:38,750
All the maneuvers in surfing--
turning, stalling, trimming,
riding the nose--
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00:08:38,784 --> 00:08:42,287
are directed toward
the ultimate aim
of staying in the curl.
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00:08:47,693 --> 00:08:50,128
Lance's real speciality
is noseriding.
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00:08:50,162 --> 00:08:52,497
A lot of surfers
run up to the nose.
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00:08:52,532 --> 00:08:55,133
A lot run up
and right off the end.
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00:08:55,167 --> 00:08:57,369
Lance usually stays around
for a while.
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00:08:57,403 --> 00:08:59,471
He's so relaxed up there,
you get the feeling...
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00:08:59,505 --> 00:09:02,173
he could have a ham sandwich
while he's waiting around.
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00:09:08,014 --> 00:09:12,250
A surfer who can ride Malibu
better than anyone
in the world is Miki Dora.
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00:09:12,285 --> 00:09:15,854
As Phil Edwards says of Miki,
"His style is so advanced,
75
00:09:15,888 --> 00:09:20,091
most surfers
don't even understand
what he's trying to do."
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00:09:20,126 --> 00:09:23,228
He's very good
at winding his way
through the crowds at Malibu...
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00:09:23,262 --> 00:09:25,931
without losing
any of his composure.
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00:09:33,673 --> 00:09:37,709
On a small wave inside,
Miki with one of his
unique maneuvers,
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00:09:37,743 --> 00:09:40,979
side-slipping his board
back and forth in the wave.
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00:09:42,114 --> 00:09:44,416
He's the only surfer
I've ever seen do this.
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00:09:46,852 --> 00:09:48,987
Mr. Miki Dora.
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00:09:52,525 --> 00:09:54,893
A young fella
named Corky Carroll
gets great rides...
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00:09:54,927 --> 00:09:57,228
wherever he happens
to be surfing.
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00:09:57,263 --> 00:09:59,798
Corky also comes up with some
pretty strange things.
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00:09:59,832 --> 00:10:01,800
Here's a pretty strange
pullout.
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00:10:03,102 --> 00:10:05,837
An "El Rollo."
when Corky does
something strange,
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00:10:05,871 --> 00:10:08,173
everyone for 50 yards
knows all about it.
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00:10:08,207 --> 00:10:11,343
"Hey, did you guys see
that El Rollo?
Boy, it was a beauty!"
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00:10:11,377 --> 00:10:13,345
Yeah, big deal, Corky.
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00:10:14,914 --> 00:10:17,716
During the wintertime
in California,
the conditions really change.
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00:10:17,750 --> 00:10:20,619
The water temperature drops
down to 48 degrees sometimes...
92
00:10:20,653 --> 00:10:24,022
at places like Steamer Lane
in Santa Cruz.
93
00:10:24,056 --> 00:10:27,592
Steamer Lane, home of
the world's latest takeoff.
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00:10:37,970 --> 00:10:42,107
The only person
comfortable surfing in this
cold water is Henry.
95
00:10:42,141 --> 00:10:45,510
Henry is a seal,
nature's greatest bodysurfer.
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00:11:00,259 --> 00:11:03,194
Other places in California
get big during the wintertime,
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00:11:03,229 --> 00:11:05,397
like the Redondo Beach
Breakwater.
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00:11:08,000 --> 00:11:11,336
Although California isn't known
for its big surf, you can see...
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00:11:11,370 --> 00:11:15,340
occasionally it gets big,
and biggest during
the wintertime.
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00:11:15,374 --> 00:11:17,542
Many surfers ride
summer and winter,
101
00:11:17,576 --> 00:11:21,346
but the ultimate thing
for most of us would be
to have an endless summer.
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00:11:21,380 --> 00:11:26,017
The warm water and waves,
without the summer crowds
of California.
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00:11:26,052 --> 00:11:28,687
The only way to do this
is by traveling
around the world,
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00:11:28,721 --> 00:11:32,357
following the summer season
as it moves around the world.
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00:11:32,391 --> 00:11:34,859
Two surfers,
Robert August and Mike Hynson,
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00:11:34,894 --> 00:11:37,996
have been planning a trip
like this for some time.
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00:11:40,866 --> 00:11:44,703
The winter evening
before their departure,
in front of a warm fire,
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00:11:44,737 --> 00:11:48,873
reading up on a few
last-minute books on Africa,
which would be their first stop.
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00:11:54,246 --> 00:11:57,382
Robert August. Mike Hynson.
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00:12:03,589 --> 00:12:05,557
Packing for the journey
was important.
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00:12:05,591 --> 00:12:08,626
Six pairs of trunks,
two boxes of wax,
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00:12:08,661 --> 00:12:12,797
some modern sounds and,
in case of injury,
one band-aid.
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00:12:17,103 --> 00:12:20,071
It was a cold,
foggy winter morning
in November...
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00:12:20,106 --> 00:12:22,173
when Mike and Robert
were ready to depart...
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00:12:22,208 --> 00:12:25,343
on the first leg of their
endless summer journey
around the world.
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00:12:25,377 --> 00:12:29,347
On the plane heading for Africa,
Robert wondered what was
in store for them.
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00:12:29,381 --> 00:12:32,851
would the find surf?
would they catch malaria?
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00:12:32,885 --> 00:12:37,021
would they be speared
by a native?
He didn't have any idea.
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00:12:37,056 --> 00:12:40,692
Across the U.S.,
then across the Atlantic Ocean,
120
00:12:40,726 --> 00:12:43,161
landing in Africa
for the first time...
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00:12:43,195 --> 00:12:45,096
at Dakar, Senegal.
122
00:12:47,399 --> 00:12:49,367
They didn't know
what to expect in Dakar,
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00:12:49,401 --> 00:12:51,870
and at dawn at the airport,
they were anxious
to get under way...
124
00:12:51,904 --> 00:12:54,205
and find an inexpensive place
to stay.
125
00:12:54,240 --> 00:12:56,508
They were a bit perturbed
when a government official
informed them...
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00:12:56,542 --> 00:12:58,777
they didn't have any choice--
they had to stay...
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00:12:58,811 --> 00:13:01,713
at a certain government-owned
hotel or leave the country.
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00:13:01,747 --> 00:13:04,549
So they had their introduction
to primitive Africa...
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00:13:04,583 --> 00:13:07,752
at one of the primitive
little hotels
along the seashore.
130
00:13:10,656 --> 00:13:16,094
The rates here were
unbelievable-- $30 a day each.
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00:13:16,128 --> 00:13:19,230
As you walk through
the front door, they stamp
"sucker" on your forehead.
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00:13:22,368 --> 00:13:24,669
The joke turned out to be
on the government, however,
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00:13:24,703 --> 00:13:27,172
because right out in front
of this hotel was
a little island...
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00:13:27,206 --> 00:13:29,240
about a quarter of a mile
offshore.
135
00:13:29,275 --> 00:13:31,843
And off each end of this island
was surf breaking,
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00:13:31,877 --> 00:13:34,179
surf that no one
had ever ridden before...
137
00:13:34,213 --> 00:13:38,016
and, as far as we know,
no surfer had ever
even seen before.
138
00:13:44,857 --> 00:13:46,825
It's pretty scary paddling out
for the first time...
139
00:13:46,859 --> 00:13:49,427
at a strange spot like this.
140
00:13:49,461 --> 00:13:52,263
They had no idea
what they might find
in the water.
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00:13:52,298 --> 00:13:54,666
So they stuck
pretty close together.
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00:14:01,006 --> 00:14:04,275
For moral support,
they took off together
on the first wave,
143
00:14:04,310 --> 00:14:06,878
figuring if anything
happened to them,
it would happen equally...
144
00:14:06,912 --> 00:14:09,047
and probably wouldn't hurt
so badly that way.
145
00:14:12,685 --> 00:14:15,253
Takes a while to get used
to any new surfing spot,
146
00:14:15,287 --> 00:14:18,957
but here in Africa,
surfing for the first time,
it takes a little longer.
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00:14:21,861 --> 00:14:26,164
Mike, on the left of the screen,
pointing out a rock
just underwater to Robert.
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00:14:26,198 --> 00:14:30,501
You find out where the rocks
are, how the waves are breaking
over the rocks or reef.
149
00:14:30,536 --> 00:14:33,705
Find out if there's any
funny little fish who might be
mad-- things like that.
150
00:14:33,739 --> 00:14:35,707
what we call
"getting a place wired."
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00:14:35,741 --> 00:14:37,709
After you get it wired,
it's just like...
152
00:14:37,743 --> 00:14:41,279
riding waves back
in the U.S.A.,
except you aren't.
153
00:14:41,313 --> 00:14:43,214
You're in Africa.
154
00:14:48,554 --> 00:14:50,521
They couldn't get over
being in Africa.
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00:14:50,556 --> 00:14:54,359
Mike would pull out of a wave,
paddle over to Robert and say,
"Robert, guess what?
156
00:14:54,393 --> 00:14:57,028
we're in Africa!"
157
00:14:57,062 --> 00:15:00,198
I don't know what it was,
but it was really
hard to accept.
158
00:15:06,105 --> 00:15:08,873
They practiced the buddy system.
If one lost his board,
159
00:15:08,908 --> 00:15:12,210
the other would paddle over
and pick up the board-- or body.
160
00:15:12,244 --> 00:15:14,712
whichever was closest.
161
00:15:14,747 --> 00:15:17,882
You don't want to do a lot of
swimming in the water down here.
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00:15:20,419 --> 00:15:24,022
Here they were,
only four hours off an airplane
from the United States,
163
00:15:24,056 --> 00:15:28,660
and already into better surf
than they'd left behind them
the day they left California.
164
00:15:28,694 --> 00:15:31,029
They're still
in the Northern Hemisphere,
165
00:15:31,063 --> 00:15:33,031
and although it's
officially wintertime,
166
00:15:33,065 --> 00:15:35,800
the water temperature
was 70 degrees.
167
00:15:35,834 --> 00:15:39,170
They rode these waves
knowing they were the first
to ever do it,
168
00:15:39,204 --> 00:15:44,175
and also knowing the closest
surfer to them was over
4,000 miles away.
169
00:15:44,209 --> 00:15:48,012
This place broke a long way out,
so most people didn't notice
what was going on.
170
00:15:48,047 --> 00:15:51,816
A few of the native kids spotted
the activity and came to watch.
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00:15:51,850 --> 00:15:55,086
Being good Africans,
they threw a few rocks.
172
00:16:01,293 --> 00:16:04,262
Some of the sharp-eyed fishermen
on the beach paddled out...
173
00:16:04,296 --> 00:16:06,531
to get a closer look
in their full race canoes.
174
00:16:14,406 --> 00:16:16,507
One of the fishermen
was really stoked.
175
00:16:16,542 --> 00:16:19,143
He was trying to shoot
the shore break in his canoe.
176
00:16:21,213 --> 00:16:25,950
Your surfing style in strange
waters like this would normally
be very conservative.
177
00:16:25,985 --> 00:16:29,153
You could hardly call Mike's
or Robert's style conservative.
178
00:16:29,188 --> 00:16:33,825
Mike with a great ride--
Dakar, Senegal, west Africa--
179
00:16:33,859 --> 00:16:35,994
completely covered up.
180
00:16:39,431 --> 00:16:42,200
They figured at the rates
they were being charged
at the hotel,
181
00:16:42,234 --> 00:16:45,536
each wave was costing them
about 9.95.
182
00:16:45,571 --> 00:16:48,773
Mike hit the bottom
and picked up
a little ding on his head.
183
00:16:50,509 --> 00:16:53,011
It was so expensive in Senegal,
they decided to leave.
184
00:16:53,045 --> 00:16:58,816
A cup of coffee costs
the equivalent of one American
dollar in Senegalese francs.
185
00:16:58,851 --> 00:17:04,422
Their next stop would be Accra,
Ghana, about 2,000 miles
down Africa's Gold Coast.
186
00:17:04,456 --> 00:17:07,425
Landing in a strange country
like this was pretty weird.
187
00:17:07,459 --> 00:17:11,129
The people of course knew
nothing about surfing
and had never seen a surfboard.
188
00:17:11,163 --> 00:17:14,032
They thought the boards were
some kind of airplane wing.
189
00:17:14,066 --> 00:17:18,569
Commonplace things for us
like getting a ride with your
surfboard were major projects.
190
00:17:18,604 --> 00:17:21,539
They finally commandeered
this taxicab and are trying
to explain to the driver...
191
00:17:21,573 --> 00:17:23,541
that they want to tie the boards
on the roof.
192
00:17:23,575 --> 00:17:25,643
They even brought rope
to do it with.
193
00:17:25,677 --> 00:17:28,546
The driver didn't speak English
and didn't understand.
194
00:17:28,580 --> 00:17:32,150
Mike kept saying, "Look,
they'll fall out of the trunk.
Let's put them on the roof."
195
00:17:32,184 --> 00:17:34,152
The driver kept muttering
something that must have meant,
196
00:17:34,186 --> 00:17:36,154
"Airplane wings go
in the trunk."
197
00:17:36,188 --> 00:17:38,923
None of this was staged.
The discussion went on
for half an hour,
198
00:17:38,957 --> 00:17:41,426
and the driver finally did it
the way he thought was best.
199
00:17:45,631 --> 00:17:48,666
Can you imagine
driving down the highway
in the U.S. like that?
200
00:17:48,700 --> 00:17:50,668
They'd put you in prison.
201
00:17:50,702 --> 00:17:53,504
They made it to a little hotel
without the boards falling out,
202
00:17:53,539 --> 00:17:56,774
congratulating the driver
for being such a good packer.
203
00:17:56,809 --> 00:17:59,777
He really liked Mike and Robert.
Didn't even charge them
for the ride,
204
00:17:59,812 --> 00:18:01,879
and offered to spend
a couple of days with them...
205
00:18:01,914 --> 00:18:04,015
showing them around
his country of Ghana.
206
00:18:04,049 --> 00:18:08,019
No charge. All they had to do
was buy gasoline for his cab.
207
00:18:08,053 --> 00:18:10,621
when they stopped to buy
gasoline for his cab,
208
00:18:10,656 --> 00:18:12,857
it turned out to be
not a very good deal.
209
00:18:12,891 --> 00:18:15,193
Gasoline in Ghana
is very expensive--
210
00:18:15,227 --> 00:18:17,962
five-point-four-and-a-half
shillings per gallon,
211
00:18:17,996 --> 00:18:21,632
almost one American dollar
for a gallon of gas.
212
00:18:21,667 --> 00:18:25,636
It was,
as the name of it implied,
really "Agip."
213
00:18:31,610 --> 00:18:36,114
In a few minutes in West Africa,
you can be out of a city
into a very primitive area.
214
00:18:36,148 --> 00:18:39,617
That's where they are now,
at a primitive fishing village
in Ghana.
215
00:18:39,651 --> 00:18:43,588
Most of these people had never
seen a white man before.
216
00:18:43,622 --> 00:18:47,291
As they walked down the beach,
they really wondered if they
were doing the right thing.
217
00:18:47,326 --> 00:18:51,195
They didn't know whether
the U.N. had been there yet
or not.
218
00:18:51,230 --> 00:18:55,399
They were a little nervous
on the beach, so they paddled
right out in the water.
219
00:18:55,434 --> 00:18:57,935
Paddling out,
they had the horrible thought
that maybe surfing...
220
00:18:57,970 --> 00:19:01,405
would violate some
religious taboo of the natives,
and they'd attack.
221
00:19:02,975 --> 00:19:05,643
During the first ride,
the hundreds of natives
were dead silent,
222
00:19:05,677 --> 00:19:08,546
but went Robert pulled out,
they really went wild.
223
00:19:08,580 --> 00:19:13,050
[Shouting, Cheering]
224
00:19:20,692 --> 00:19:24,028
That was the beginning
of surfing in Ghana.
The people couldn't believe it.
225
00:19:24,062 --> 00:19:26,764
They came down to the beach
with their kids
and their lunch...
226
00:19:26,798 --> 00:19:28,833
and they still had
both hands free.
227
00:19:37,409 --> 00:19:41,045
The natives had never seen
or even dreamed
of anything like this before.
228
00:19:41,079 --> 00:19:44,048
They stood there for hours,
completely fascinated.
229
00:19:44,082 --> 00:19:46,284
If you lost your board,
it would come inside,
230
00:19:46,318 --> 00:19:50,121
and the native kids would hop
on it and play with it till
you come and ask for it back.
231
00:19:50,155 --> 00:19:54,425
Usually they'd give it back,
but they were kids, and you were
bigger than they were.
232
00:19:54,459 --> 00:19:57,461
But you weren't bigger
than the chief,
who was bigger than anybody.
233
00:19:57,496 --> 00:19:59,463
That's why he was chief.
234
00:19:59,498 --> 00:20:01,966
If you lost your board
and the chief wanted
to play with it,
235
00:20:02,000 --> 00:20:04,202
there really wasn't much
you could say about it.
236
00:20:10,108 --> 00:20:12,977
watch Robert trying
to be tactful here.
237
00:20:13,011 --> 00:20:16,814
"Hi there, chief.
Nice day, huh, sir? May I
have my board back, please?"
238
00:20:26,358 --> 00:20:28,659
One reason the natives
were so excited about surfing...
239
00:20:28,694 --> 00:20:31,862
was because they themselves
paddle out through
the surf every day...
240
00:20:31,897 --> 00:20:34,165
in their big dug-out canoes
to go fishing.
241
00:20:34,199 --> 00:20:36,667
So they have a real feeling
for the sea and waves,
242
00:20:36,702 --> 00:20:41,772
and could fully appreciate
Mike and Robert's ability
on their surfboards.
243
00:20:41,807 --> 00:20:44,976
This is really an interesting
tribe of native fishermen.
244
00:20:45,010 --> 00:20:48,813
Their method of fishing
has remained unchanged
for thousands of years.
245
00:20:48,847 --> 00:20:52,049
Everything they have,
they make themselves.
246
00:20:52,084 --> 00:20:57,154
The ropes and nets
are woven from some fiber
they get in the jungle.
247
00:20:57,189 --> 00:21:00,858
The canoe is hollowed
out of a single,
gigantic hardwood log.
248
00:21:03,061 --> 00:21:05,863
when they go stroking out to sea
in their big dug-out canoe,
249
00:21:05,897 --> 00:21:08,866
and you're sitting outside,
looking at them paddling
toward you,
250
00:21:08,900 --> 00:21:12,203
you think they're
coming out with their
forks to have you for dinner.
251
00:21:12,237 --> 00:21:14,205
♪♪ [Singing
In Native Language]
252
00:21:14,239 --> 00:21:16,874
They couldn't speak English,
and Mike couldn't speak
their language.
253
00:21:16,908 --> 00:21:21,112
They paddled by
and said something like--
[Imitates Native Language]
254
00:21:21,146 --> 00:21:23,848
Mike smiled and said,
"Yeah, man, hang 10."
255
00:21:23,882 --> 00:21:25,850
They thought that was great.
256
00:21:25,884 --> 00:21:30,288
They went stroking out,
chanting, "Hang 10, hang 10!"
257
00:21:30,322 --> 00:21:35,760
The only English word
they know is "hang 10."
That has to be unique.
258
00:21:35,794 --> 00:21:38,329
They lay the net
in a big semicircle.
259
00:21:38,363 --> 00:21:41,132
Normally they avoid
riding waves in the canoes,
260
00:21:41,166 --> 00:21:44,135
but they thought they'd give
Mike and Robert a little thrill.
261
00:21:44,169 --> 00:21:48,139
They did when they took off
on a wave in their two-ton
hardwood canoe.
262
00:21:48,173 --> 00:21:51,142
♪♪ [Continues]
263
00:22:06,291 --> 00:22:10,261
Surfing one of these things
is like trying to surf
the Santa Fe Super Chief.
264
00:22:15,434 --> 00:22:19,770
They fish the same stretch
of beach every day, and have
been for hundreds of years.
265
00:22:19,805 --> 00:22:21,906
If they move a mile up
or down the beach,
266
00:22:21,940 --> 00:22:25,443
they run into another tribe
of fishermen who have
that area all staked out.
267
00:22:25,477 --> 00:22:29,280
And if they infringe on each
other's area, a big war starts
and everybody gets massacred.
268
00:22:29,314 --> 00:22:33,317
It's really a mess.
So they stay pretty much
in their own area.
269
00:22:33,352 --> 00:22:35,820
with the last of the canoes
coming in,
everyone in the village...
270
00:22:35,854 --> 00:22:38,289
turns out
to help pull in the big net.
271
00:22:39,424 --> 00:22:42,526
♪♪ [Singing
In Native Language]
272
00:22:43,929 --> 00:22:46,397
They all have duties.
273
00:22:46,431 --> 00:22:49,667
Here's the head rope coiler.
274
00:22:49,701 --> 00:22:54,772
♪♪ [Continues]
275
00:22:54,806 --> 00:23:00,211
It takes them about an hour
to get the net in, and they
usually catch quite a few fish.
276
00:23:00,245 --> 00:23:02,313
They have to divide the catch
up among themselves.
277
00:23:02,347 --> 00:23:05,483
They don't have any money,
but they bargain
for the fish anyway.
278
00:23:05,517 --> 00:23:07,585
The session goes on
for half an hour,
279
00:23:07,619 --> 00:23:10,354
with everyone hollering
at each other at full volume.
280
00:23:10,389 --> 00:23:14,658
Their approach is like,
"Look, Casafugo, I pulled
harder, so I get more fish."
281
00:23:14,693 --> 00:23:18,095
And the other guy says,
"Yeah, but I stayed up late
last night worrying about it."
282
00:23:18,130 --> 00:23:21,766
The other guy says,
"well, I'm bigger than you.
I'm taking the fish."
283
00:23:21,800 --> 00:23:26,370
Part of it has to do with
how big and strong you are
and what you know.
284
00:23:26,405 --> 00:23:28,839
This woman
must have known karate.
285
00:23:33,979 --> 00:23:38,582
The surfboards really
attracted a lot of attention,
as did Mike and Robert.
286
00:23:38,617 --> 00:23:41,318
Robert with a big group
surrounding him.
287
00:23:41,353 --> 00:23:43,454
They were asking him questions
in their native tongue,
288
00:23:43,488 --> 00:23:46,957
and he was answering
what he thought might be
the questions in English.
289
00:23:46,992 --> 00:23:49,927
No one understood one word of
what the other guy was saying.
290
00:23:51,163 --> 00:23:53,264
But when you get surrounded
by a group like that,
291
00:23:53,298 --> 00:23:55,733
you just don't just walk away.
292
00:23:55,767 --> 00:23:59,270
The kids in the village
really got excited
about surfing.
293
00:23:59,304 --> 00:24:02,473
They got so excited,
they started ripping down
their houses.
294
00:24:02,507 --> 00:24:05,476
♪♪ [Continues]
295
00:24:09,881 --> 00:24:12,917
The start of bellyboard surfing
in Ghana.
296
00:24:27,899 --> 00:24:30,701
♪♪ [Fades]
The kids wanted to learn
how to ride a real surfboard,
297
00:24:30,735 --> 00:24:33,771
so Mike and Robert organized
a little surfing school.
298
00:24:33,805 --> 00:24:37,608
First thing the kids had to
learn was to rough up the wax
on the deck of the board...
299
00:24:37,642 --> 00:24:39,944
with some sand
so they wouldn't slip off.
300
00:24:39,978 --> 00:24:42,079
Plenty of help.
301
00:24:42,113 --> 00:24:45,216
The biggest problem
in the school was
selecting one student.
302
00:24:45,250 --> 00:24:48,552
They all wanted to be
the student, and you can only
teach one at a time,
303
00:24:48,587 --> 00:24:51,856
so you just looked around
and tried to find a kid
with a pair of trunks.
304
00:24:51,890 --> 00:24:54,258
Teach him first.
305
00:24:55,660 --> 00:24:58,262
Robert starting his
student off near shore,
306
00:24:58,296 --> 00:25:00,798
pushing him
into a wave.
307
00:25:00,832 --> 00:25:04,301
First time this little
African boy had ever been
on a surfboard in his life.
308
00:25:15,447 --> 00:25:17,414
Mike didn't fool around
near shore.
309
00:25:17,449 --> 00:25:20,217
He started his students
outside in the heavies.
310
00:25:24,289 --> 00:25:26,891
If they let go of the board,
they'd lose their turn
as students,
311
00:25:26,925 --> 00:25:29,593
so they'd hang on to the thing
sideways in the soup.
312
00:25:29,628 --> 00:25:31,595
They weren't afraid of anything.
313
00:25:41,973 --> 00:25:46,510
The best one of the day
was a beautiful tandem
late takeoff, sideways.
314
00:25:51,950 --> 00:25:56,186
As is usual in West Africa,
when the little guys
try something and survive,
315
00:25:56,221 --> 00:26:01,025
the big guys take
the boards away and go out
and try it themselves.
316
00:26:01,059 --> 00:26:04,562
A couple of the heavies
got the boards and started
stroking out.
317
00:26:04,596 --> 00:26:08,832
Keep in mind these men had
never seen a surfboard, let
alone ever tried to ride one.
318
00:26:08,867 --> 00:26:12,636
It takes most beginners
a long time
to just catch a wave.
319
00:26:12,671 --> 00:26:16,307
In my years of surfing,
I've never seen anything
like this.
320
00:26:16,341 --> 00:26:18,809
The very first wave he tried.
321
00:26:23,081 --> 00:26:27,117
- His buddies
were really stoked.
- [Cheering]
322
00:26:27,152 --> 00:26:31,655
They started getting
kinda cocky after a while--
one-armed paddles.
323
00:26:43,134 --> 00:26:46,770
These fellas were amazing.
They didn't have much trouble
catching waves.
324
00:26:46,805 --> 00:26:50,040
They didn't even have too much
trouble standing up
for a short time.
325
00:26:51,209 --> 00:26:53,444
They had absolutely
no trouble at all...
326
00:26:53,478 --> 00:26:56,447
getting the board back
from the people inside.
327
00:26:56,481 --> 00:27:00,451
Mike and Robert would have
to argue, but watch when the
heavy comes in to get the board.
328
00:27:01,987 --> 00:27:03,954
No argument.
329
00:27:08,293 --> 00:27:10,260
They started getting it
really wired.
330
00:27:10,295 --> 00:27:14,798
Some pretty hot angles going,
and a beautiful El Rollo.
331
00:27:18,336 --> 00:27:20,638
They even came up with
a few original maneuvers.
332
00:27:20,672 --> 00:27:24,742
A west African pullout
here called
a "reverse Patrice Lumumba."
333
00:27:27,779 --> 00:27:31,515
These men were so excited
about surfing that we felt
sure after we left...
334
00:27:31,549 --> 00:27:33,651
they'd shape their own surfboard
from some jungle tree...
335
00:27:33,685 --> 00:27:36,754
and are probably out there
surfing right now.
336
00:27:39,424 --> 00:27:42,393
The only problem came
when the local constable
walked up, said,
337
00:27:42,427 --> 00:27:45,629
"Sorry.
No surfing after 11:00."
338
00:27:45,664 --> 00:27:48,432
He didn't look too friendly,
so we didn't argue.
339
00:27:49,934 --> 00:27:52,569
The kids didn't like that rule.
They gave him a little lip,
340
00:27:52,604 --> 00:27:54,605
like, "How'd you like
a black eye, cop?"
341
00:27:59,911 --> 00:28:01,879
Their time just about up
in Ghana,
342
00:28:01,913 --> 00:28:05,315
they strolled down the beach
and said good-bye
to the newfound friends.
343
00:28:10,722 --> 00:28:13,057
Our next stop--
Lagos, Nigeria,
344
00:28:13,091 --> 00:28:15,092
just a short hop
down the coast.
345
00:28:15,126 --> 00:28:17,561
On these short flights,
we took some pretty weird
airlines.
346
00:28:17,595 --> 00:28:20,698
This one was South Mombasa,
with a U.N.-trained
African pilot...
347
00:28:20,732 --> 00:28:23,434
flying a war surplus DC-1.
348
00:28:23,468 --> 00:28:25,469
Figured he'd give 'em
a little thrill.
349
00:28:25,503 --> 00:28:28,338
[Engines Roaring]
350
00:28:38,049 --> 00:28:40,484
Once into Nigeria,
Mike and Robert
hitched a ride...
351
00:28:40,518 --> 00:28:45,489
and struck off to look for surf
in a place no one had ever
surfed before.
352
00:28:45,523 --> 00:28:49,259
The odds against finding surf
in a strange country
are pretty high.
353
00:28:52,897 --> 00:28:55,199
Even getting to a beach
is difficult.
354
00:28:55,233 --> 00:28:57,701
with their fantastic luck
still with them,
355
00:28:57,736 --> 00:29:01,405
they hiked into a beach
and paddled right out
into some hot little waves.
356
00:29:03,041 --> 00:29:06,376
when I say "hot" in this case,
I don't refer
to the shape of the waves,
357
00:29:06,411 --> 00:29:08,779
but to the actual temperature
of the waves.
358
00:29:08,813 --> 00:29:12,916
The water temperature
here in Nigeria,
almost on the equator,
359
00:29:12,951 --> 00:29:16,253
was an unbelievable 91 degrees.
360
00:29:16,287 --> 00:29:19,256
It melted the wax
right off the board.
361
00:29:19,290 --> 00:29:21,258
The air temperature
was about 100.
362
00:29:21,292 --> 00:29:25,062
The humidity felt like 5,000%.
363
00:29:25,096 --> 00:29:28,198
It felt drier underwater
than it did up there
in the air.
364
00:29:31,603 --> 00:29:33,771
United Nations ship outside,
365
00:29:33,805 --> 00:29:38,342
ready to enter the harbor
at Lagos, Nigeria.
366
00:29:38,376 --> 00:29:44,214
we have no way of knowing
whether this is a good day of
surf for Nigeria, or a bad one.
367
00:29:44,249 --> 00:29:46,583
All we know-- it was like this
when we were there,
368
00:29:46,618 --> 00:29:51,288
and it's still better
than a lot of days we get
in California.
369
00:29:51,322 --> 00:29:53,757
Unlike Ghana,
only one native watched.
370
00:29:53,792 --> 00:29:56,326
He wasn't exactly overactive.
371
00:29:56,361 --> 00:29:58,662
Neither would you be
when it's 100 degrees.
372
00:30:02,300 --> 00:30:05,469
It was so hot on the beach,
I decided to wade out
in the water...
373
00:30:05,503 --> 00:30:09,273
and show you what it looks like
if you're standing chest-deep
in Nigerian water...
374
00:30:09,307 --> 00:30:12,976
watching Mike Hynson ride by,
perched on the nose.
375
00:30:13,011 --> 00:30:15,646
You keep one eye on Mike,
and the other eye
on the bottom...
376
00:30:15,680 --> 00:30:18,782
for creatures like stonefish
that exist there.
377
00:30:18,817 --> 00:30:23,287
If you step on a stonefish,
you die in about 15 minutes.
378
00:30:33,231 --> 00:30:35,699
Surfing a place like this
is no problem.
379
00:30:35,733 --> 00:30:37,901
The problem is finding it
to begin with,
380
00:30:37,936 --> 00:30:41,872
and in this case, the problem
was getting back to the road
to hitch a ride.
381
00:30:41,906 --> 00:30:45,042
They had to hike through
a jungle between the beach
and a road.
382
00:30:45,076 --> 00:30:47,811
If you get off the path,
you never find your way out.
383
00:30:47,846 --> 00:30:50,914
This was a full-on jungle,
full of all kinds
of creepy things--
384
00:30:50,949 --> 00:30:52,950
snakes, spiders.
385
00:30:52,984 --> 00:30:56,286
They expected Tarzan to come
swinging by on a vine.
386
00:31:05,964 --> 00:31:08,165
[Airplane Engines whirring]
387
00:31:12,036 --> 00:31:15,305
From Nigeria, they're headed
to South Africa.
388
00:31:15,340 --> 00:31:18,075
They'll be crossing
the equator for the first time.
389
00:31:18,109 --> 00:31:21,612
For the first time,
it's now officially summer.
390
00:31:21,646 --> 00:31:23,180
It was November.
391
00:31:23,214 --> 00:31:24,748
Landing in Cape Town,
392
00:31:24,782 --> 00:31:27,551
they'll also be going to Durban,
1,200 miles up the coast.
393
00:31:29,254 --> 00:31:31,555
The landmark at Cape Town
that's as famous
as Diamond Head...
394
00:31:31,589 --> 00:31:33,557
is Table Mountain.
395
00:31:33,591 --> 00:31:36,493
Let's go up on top
and take a look.
396
00:31:51,809 --> 00:31:55,379
From the top, you can see
a long way down
the Cape Peninsula.
397
00:31:55,413 --> 00:31:59,483
It's a finger of land
about 20 miles long
and five miles wide.
398
00:31:59,517 --> 00:32:01,985
It separates two great oceans.
399
00:32:02,020 --> 00:32:04,988
On one side of the peninsula
is the Atlantic Ocean.
400
00:32:05,023 --> 00:32:07,424
On the other,
the Indian Ocean,
401
00:32:07,458 --> 00:32:10,127
ending in the famous
Cape of Good Hope.
402
00:32:15,199 --> 00:32:18,168
It's a 2,000-foot vertical drop
from Table Mountain...
403
00:32:18,202 --> 00:32:22,005
to the suburbs
of Cape Town below.
404
00:32:22,040 --> 00:32:24,508
Mike getting his jollies in
for the day.
405
00:32:28,546 --> 00:32:30,580
There are surfers
in South Africa.
406
00:32:30,615 --> 00:32:33,183
John Whitmore is the leader
of the group in Cape Town.
407
00:32:33,217 --> 00:32:37,020
John makes surfboards
and sells Volkswagens.
408
00:32:37,055 --> 00:32:39,856
There are about a hundred
surfers around Cape Town,
409
00:32:39,891 --> 00:32:41,858
and when Mike and Robert
arrived,
410
00:32:41,893 --> 00:32:45,262
all 100 of them
took the day off
to go surfing.
411
00:32:45,296 --> 00:32:47,864
California surfers usually
split up into small groups...
412
00:32:47,899 --> 00:32:50,834
and go to different beaches,
trying to avoid crowds.
413
00:32:50,868 --> 00:32:53,570
Here in Cape Town,
they like to go all together.
414
00:32:56,607 --> 00:33:00,644
Down the Cape Highway,
past many beaches with no one
on them and good surf.
415
00:33:00,678 --> 00:33:04,448
But they don't split up.
They all go
to the same beach.
416
00:33:04,482 --> 00:33:08,151
It doesn't matter what beach,
as long as they're together.
417
00:33:08,186 --> 00:33:11,154
They were also anxious to see
Mike and Robert surf.
418
00:33:11,189 --> 00:33:13,757
They get to the beach together,
but when they actually surf,
419
00:33:13,791 --> 00:33:15,993
they split up
into small groups.
420
00:33:16,027 --> 00:33:20,430
One or two, 10 or 20--
They don't care.
The more, the merrier.
421
00:33:21,466 --> 00:33:23,600
These are brave men.
422
00:33:36,647 --> 00:33:39,282
As you can tell,
they haven't been surfing long
in Cape Town,
423
00:33:39,317 --> 00:33:41,284
but they really have a ball.
424
00:33:41,319 --> 00:33:43,620
They get out there
and really go at it--
425
00:33:43,654 --> 00:33:47,791
bite, scratch, kick
and really shove
each other around.
426
00:33:52,897 --> 00:33:55,065
John Whitmore, who made
most of their surfboards.
427
00:33:55,099 --> 00:33:58,568
He's also been surfing longer
than most of the other
people down there.
428
00:34:01,472 --> 00:34:06,676
The South Africans were
so enthusiastic about Mike
and Robert's surfing ability,
429
00:34:06,711 --> 00:34:11,281
there were instances
when surfers drove 400 miles
just to meet them.
430
00:34:11,315 --> 00:34:13,817
They'd drive 400 miles,
get out of the car,
431
00:34:13,851 --> 00:34:17,487
shake hands
and drive 400 miles
back home again.
432
00:34:27,632 --> 00:34:30,000
There are very few teenagers
that surf around Cape Town.
433
00:34:30,034 --> 00:34:34,037
Here's one of the few,
Peter Basford,
getting a nice ride.
434
00:34:34,072 --> 00:34:38,141
The average age around
Cape Town for surfers would be
in their late 20s and 30s.
435
00:34:43,214 --> 00:34:46,450
Mike and Robert
were quick to make friends
with the natives...
436
00:34:46,484 --> 00:34:48,452
wherever they visited.
437
00:34:51,022 --> 00:34:55,425
Robert with a good pair of
dark glasses on so they couldn't
see where he was looking.
438
00:34:58,763 --> 00:35:02,232
They spent a few happy days
around Cape Town
meeting natives,
439
00:35:02,266 --> 00:35:04,234
but they'd come here
to get away from the crowds...
440
00:35:04,268 --> 00:35:07,404
and find a beach they could
surf by themselves.
441
00:35:07,438 --> 00:35:10,807
So they borrowed a car
and struck off alone
down the Cape Peninsula...
442
00:35:10,842 --> 00:35:13,477
to look for some surf.
443
00:35:13,511 --> 00:35:17,013
If you want to be alone,
you're welcome to be alone
in South Africa.
444
00:35:17,048 --> 00:35:21,651
It's one of the few places
in the world you can even
be alone on the main highway.
445
00:35:29,794 --> 00:35:32,762
You pass many beaches
with not a soul on them,
446
00:35:32,797 --> 00:35:38,101
not a footprint in the sand,
and there hasn't been one
in 10 years.
447
00:35:38,136 --> 00:35:41,271
You can be so alone
on the beach down there,
it's almost scary.
448
00:35:53,484 --> 00:35:56,620
They called this place
Long Beach...
449
00:35:56,654 --> 00:35:59,122
and paddled out
for a few waves.
450
00:36:06,998 --> 00:36:09,065
Conditions here
resemble Northern California,
451
00:36:09,100 --> 00:36:11,268
with heavy kelp beds
outside.
452
00:36:11,302 --> 00:36:14,137
The kelp cuts the chop
and makes the waves
inside smoother,
453
00:36:14,172 --> 00:36:16,840
although it makes them smaller.
454
00:36:16,874 --> 00:36:19,709
This is on the Atlantic side
of the Cape Peninsula,
455
00:36:19,744 --> 00:36:24,347
and although it's summertime,
the water temperature
is only 54 degrees.
456
00:36:24,382 --> 00:36:27,684
It never gets very warm
on the Atlantic side
of the peninsula,
457
00:36:27,718 --> 00:36:32,088
but only five miles away
across land is the Indian Ocean.
458
00:36:32,123 --> 00:36:36,960
The water there is sometimes
20 degrees warmer
on the same day.
459
00:36:36,994 --> 00:36:39,863
The best surf seems to be
on the Atlantic side,
460
00:36:39,897 --> 00:36:44,100
so most of the surfing around
Cape Town is done in cold water,
even in the summer.
461
00:36:50,942 --> 00:36:54,377
with the tremendous difference
in water temperature
between the two oceans...
462
00:36:54,412 --> 00:36:57,013
separated by such a narrow
land mass,
463
00:36:57,048 --> 00:37:00,116
it causes some pretty good
winds to blow.
464
00:37:00,151 --> 00:37:04,154
Here's a little
afternoon offshore breeze
around Cape Town.
465
00:37:04,188 --> 00:37:08,291
[wind whistling]
466
00:37:08,326 --> 00:37:10,293
Nobody gets very excited
about it.
467
00:37:10,328 --> 00:37:14,264
They just tie their car
to a tree and watch their kids
as they go sailing by.
468
00:37:14,298 --> 00:37:16,666
Mike and Robert decided
to head for Durban,
469
00:37:16,701 --> 00:37:19,469
which is 1,200 miles
up the Indian Ocean coast.
470
00:37:22,873 --> 00:37:25,075
So off they went to Durban.
471
00:37:28,212 --> 00:37:30,914
If you try to hitch a ride
at Durban, you can sit there...
472
00:37:30,948 --> 00:37:33,583
for three days
and never see a car.
473
00:37:35,119 --> 00:37:39,990
As the hours rolled by
and the warm summer sun
beat down,
474
00:37:40,024 --> 00:37:44,461
Mike couldn't help
but think back to the summer
that had passed in California,
475
00:37:44,495 --> 00:37:47,631
and the places that break
during California's summertime,
476
00:37:47,665 --> 00:37:50,800
like The wedge
in Newport Beach.
477
00:37:50,835 --> 00:37:53,103
The dirty old wedge.
478
00:37:58,976 --> 00:38:04,447
The dirty old wedge,
where $6,000 worth of swim fins
were lost last year--
479
00:38:04,482 --> 00:38:07,183
and their owners.
480
00:38:07,218 --> 00:38:11,755
The wedge in California,
where you catch waves
you didn't even want.
481
00:38:22,266 --> 00:38:24,534
You come out of the water
after a wave like this,
482
00:38:24,568 --> 00:38:27,404
your back looks like
a Twist-O-Flex watchband.
483
00:38:32,777 --> 00:38:35,178
Few people ride bellyboards
at The wedge.
484
00:38:35,212 --> 00:38:37,647
Bodysurfing is bad enough,
because when you get wiped out,
485
00:38:37,682 --> 00:38:42,018
it feels like your arms,
legs and head are all going
different directions.
486
00:38:42,053 --> 00:38:46,222
Add a bellyboard to that mess,
it's like an extra piece
of shrapnel in a hand grenade.
487
00:39:01,572 --> 00:39:03,673
The waves break
in very shallow water,
488
00:39:03,708 --> 00:39:07,577
so if you don't land
just right, you can
really get bent.
489
00:39:07,611 --> 00:39:11,414
They come out with shovels
at low tide and dig you
out of the sand.
490
00:39:14,085 --> 00:39:18,288
Usually on a big day,
it's a very short ride.
It's kind of a big drop.
491
00:39:18,322 --> 00:39:20,957
Occasionally someone
gets a long ride.
492
00:39:20,991 --> 00:39:23,360
Here's some kind of record
for a big day.
493
00:39:23,394 --> 00:39:26,563
I can't figure out whether
this guy has a bellyboard...
494
00:39:26,597 --> 00:39:28,631
or is bodysurfing...
495
00:39:28,666 --> 00:39:30,567
or has rigor mortis
of the stomach.
496
00:39:35,940 --> 00:39:39,242
You may wonder why people
don't occasionally
land on each other.
497
00:39:39,276 --> 00:39:41,711
As a matter of fact,
occasionally they do.
498
00:39:41,746 --> 00:39:44,414
In fact,
they do it all the time.
Here's once.
499
00:39:47,685 --> 00:39:53,022
This is the slam-bang,
crowded action
of California's summertime.
500
00:39:53,057 --> 00:39:55,925
Mike Hynson and Robert August
were glad they were here,
501
00:39:55,960 --> 00:39:58,428
especially when they looked
down the highway...
502
00:39:58,462 --> 00:40:00,930
and saw the first car
coming their way...
503
00:40:00,965 --> 00:40:04,267
in the shimmering heat waves
of summer in South Africa.
504
00:40:08,806 --> 00:40:11,441
There was a truck
with a surfboard on top.
505
00:40:11,475 --> 00:40:14,477
A surfboard's a rare thing
to see in South Africa.
506
00:40:14,512 --> 00:40:17,113
It turned out to be
a young surfer named James...
507
00:40:17,148 --> 00:40:19,115
and an older fellow
named Terence...
508
00:40:19,150 --> 00:40:21,918
who was taking James a few miles
up the coast to go surfing.
509
00:40:21,952 --> 00:40:27,624
They met, and Mike and Robert
explained they were headed
for Durban, 1,200 miles away.
510
00:40:27,658 --> 00:40:31,661
Terence was only going
a few miles, but he thought it
over for a minute and said,
511
00:40:31,695 --> 00:40:34,097
"what the heck?
Load your boards.
I'll take you to Durban."
512
00:40:34,131 --> 00:40:37,100
On the spur of the moment,
Terence decided,
513
00:40:37,134 --> 00:40:41,704
and ended up driving Mike
and Robert over 2,000 miles
through South Africa,
514
00:40:41,739 --> 00:40:45,408
a trip that took him
out of his way for two weeks.
515
00:40:45,443 --> 00:40:47,477
Terence Bullen.
He doesn't surf.
516
00:40:47,511 --> 00:40:49,612
He captures animals
for zoos around the world...
517
00:40:49,647 --> 00:40:52,115
and milks cobra snakes
for their venom.
518
00:40:52,149 --> 00:40:54,617
He handles a thousand
deadly cobras a week,
519
00:40:54,652 --> 00:40:56,653
and when he's not
extracting their venom,
520
00:40:56,687 --> 00:40:59,823
he keeps them in baskets
in his bedroom.
521
00:40:59,857 --> 00:41:04,828
He's one of the few people
in the world to capture
an African elephant alive.
522
00:41:04,862 --> 00:41:08,331
Terence wasn't afraid
of anything in the world,
except the ocean,
523
00:41:08,365 --> 00:41:11,167
and he wouldn't go in that
for anything.
524
00:41:11,202 --> 00:41:14,737
This is the truck he uses
for hunting safaris.
525
00:41:14,772 --> 00:41:20,477
This is the truck that took us
1,200 miles along the virgin
coastline of the Indian Ocean.
526
00:41:20,511 --> 00:41:24,781
If you thoroughly explored
the surfing possibilities
along the beaches,
527
00:41:24,815 --> 00:41:27,283
it would take you 10 years.
528
00:41:33,023 --> 00:41:36,493
we just concentrated
on places right alongside
the paved highway.
529
00:41:36,527 --> 00:41:40,563
You pull off in the morning,
look out. There'll be
a place like this.
530
00:41:40,598 --> 00:41:42,932
It doesn't even have a name.
531
00:41:42,967 --> 00:41:45,668
So you go out for a wave
before breakfast.
532
00:41:52,009 --> 00:41:55,745
About 300 miles north of
Cape Town on the Indian Ocean,
533
00:41:55,779 --> 00:41:57,981
the water was 70 degrees.
534
00:41:58,015 --> 00:42:00,917
Offshore breezes.
Perfect conditions.
535
00:42:05,456 --> 00:42:09,325
There are hundreds
of places like this up and down
that 1,200-mile coastline...
536
00:42:09,360 --> 00:42:11,794
between Cape Town and Durban.
537
00:42:11,829 --> 00:42:15,999
Mike out, along with James,
who is just learning
how to surf.
538
00:42:16,033 --> 00:42:18,501
Robert stayed on the beach
to keep his eye on Terence...
539
00:42:18,536 --> 00:42:21,104
because Terence had a habit
of pulling tricks on them.
540
00:42:21,138 --> 00:42:23,172
Like one time he caught
a couple of cobras...
541
00:42:23,207 --> 00:42:25,441
and wrapped them up
in their sleeping bags.
542
00:42:25,476 --> 00:42:29,379
when they unrolled the bags,
he really laughed.
He thought that was hysterical.
543
00:42:31,815 --> 00:42:34,183
This particular day, Terence
got a couple of horses...
544
00:42:34,218 --> 00:42:36,286
and launched Mike and Robert
down the beach.
545
00:42:36,320 --> 00:42:40,356
They'd never ridden one
in their lives. He laughed
so hard, he almost got a hernia.
546
00:42:51,569 --> 00:42:55,438
Robert with a death grip
on an English saddle.
547
00:42:55,472 --> 00:42:58,141
Threatened to drown Terence
if he could catch him.
548
00:42:59,777 --> 00:43:03,313
With this man, we drove
thousands of miles
through South Africa.
549
00:43:03,347 --> 00:43:05,315
Mike's radio always
at full volume.
550
00:43:05,349 --> 00:43:07,817
Scared the daylights
out of any animal around.
551
00:43:12,856 --> 00:43:15,358
These animals are really
an impressive thing to see.
552
00:43:15,392 --> 00:43:18,895
You drive through countryside
that looks like parts
of the United States.
553
00:43:18,929 --> 00:43:20,964
You almost forget
you're in Africa.
554
00:43:20,998 --> 00:43:25,268
But suddenly you remember
when a big eland goes trudging
off from beside the road.
555
00:43:25,302 --> 00:43:27,203
It weighs almost a ton.
556
00:43:29,106 --> 00:43:32,108
As the countryside changes,
you see different animals.
557
00:43:32,142 --> 00:43:35,445
A little further along,
we saw a herd of impala
having lunch...
558
00:43:35,479 --> 00:43:37,380
right beside the road.
559
00:43:41,986 --> 00:43:45,088
Mike and Robert like to surf
more than anything else,
560
00:43:45,122 --> 00:43:48,958
but they each felt they'd like
to spend at least six months
in South Africa...
561
00:43:48,993 --> 00:43:51,427
doing nothing but looking
at animals.
562
00:43:51,462 --> 00:43:53,630
It's really an impressive
thing to see.
563
00:43:53,664 --> 00:43:56,532
There are hundreds
of different kinds,
and Terence knew them all.
564
00:43:56,567 --> 00:44:00,269
with his sharp eyes,
he could spot them
about 10 miles away.
565
00:44:00,304 --> 00:44:02,839
This is a bontebok,
now rare.
566
00:44:02,873 --> 00:44:06,743
Mike started his career
as a game stalker
in his camouflage shirt.
567
00:44:11,148 --> 00:44:13,516
Terence would always send them
out after things.
568
00:44:13,550 --> 00:44:16,152
He'd say, "See how close
you guys can get
to those giraffes."
569
00:44:16,186 --> 00:44:19,889
Then he'd lock the doors,
roll up the windows, sit in
there giggling like a maniac,
570
00:44:19,923 --> 00:44:23,726
tell you about the lion
in the bushes later.
571
00:44:23,761 --> 00:44:26,529
There are millions of monkeys
in South Africa.
572
00:44:26,563 --> 00:44:29,465
If you park your car
out in the country
and forget to lock it,
573
00:44:29,500 --> 00:44:32,201
the monkeys climb out of
the trees, get in the car
and take anything...
574
00:44:32,236 --> 00:44:35,304
that's not bolted down--
windshield wipers,
radio knobs,
575
00:44:35,339 --> 00:44:37,306
everything
in the glove compartment--
576
00:44:37,341 --> 00:44:39,509
and pass it up to their
buddies in the tree.
577
00:44:39,543 --> 00:44:42,078
They've got a regular
auto supply store going
up there.
578
00:44:42,112 --> 00:44:44,814
You come back and start
yelling for your parts,
579
00:44:44,848 --> 00:44:48,117
they just giggle and throw you
down a '38 Hudson hubcap.
580
00:44:50,487 --> 00:44:53,723
There are many native villages.
This is a Zulu village.
581
00:44:53,757 --> 00:44:58,227
we were a little afraid
to go in it, so Mike picked out
the littlest guy to meet first.
582
00:44:58,262 --> 00:45:00,830
He was more afraid
than we were.
583
00:45:00,864 --> 00:45:05,268
Arrow shirt going there.
Shot by an arrow.
584
00:45:05,302 --> 00:45:07,603
He couldn't speak English,
and we couldn't speak Zulu,
585
00:45:07,638 --> 00:45:10,473
so we just shook hands
and tried to be friendly.
586
00:45:10,507 --> 00:45:12,775
Robert called him "Mr. Clean."
587
00:45:18,682 --> 00:45:20,950
Continuing the journey
up the coast.
588
00:45:20,984 --> 00:45:24,020
The further north you go
in South Africa,
the hotter it gets.
589
00:45:26,657 --> 00:45:30,159
They drove all night,
arriving in Durban
first thing in the morning,
590
00:45:30,194 --> 00:45:33,830
and were greeted by
some of the local surfers
who live in the area--
591
00:45:37,668 --> 00:45:43,072
Jack Wilson, Max Wetteland
and Harry Bold.
592
00:45:43,107 --> 00:45:45,408
Morning comes pretty early
in Durban.
593
00:45:45,442 --> 00:45:49,412
The sun is already up,
and it's only 4:30 a.m.
594
00:45:49,446 --> 00:45:52,348
Robert out for a few waves
in the shimmering heat...
595
00:45:52,382 --> 00:45:55,084
of tropical South Africa--
Durban.
596
00:45:56,787 --> 00:46:00,456
4:30 in the morning--
it's already 80 degrees out.
597
00:46:00,491 --> 00:46:02,525
water temperature
about the same.
598
00:46:03,994 --> 00:46:07,964
With the warm water,
there's a tremendous
problem with sharks.
599
00:46:16,640 --> 00:46:20,176
Later in the afternoon,
around 5:30 a.m.,
600
00:46:20,210 --> 00:46:22,812
some more of
the local surfers showed up.
601
00:46:22,846 --> 00:46:25,114
They haven't been surfing long
around Durban either,
602
00:46:25,149 --> 00:46:27,283
but they get some great rides.
603
00:46:32,089 --> 00:46:35,057
They call their bathing suits
down there "costumes."
604
00:46:35,092 --> 00:46:37,994
In America,
we call this thing a G-string.
605
00:46:43,133 --> 00:46:45,601
As I mentioned, sharks are
a tremendous problem here.
606
00:46:45,636 --> 00:46:47,870
If you go in the water
away from the main beach,
607
00:46:47,905 --> 00:46:51,274
the odds are 50-50
you'll be killed by a shark.
608
00:46:51,308 --> 00:46:53,442
This beach is meshed,
or netted against sharks.
609
00:46:53,477 --> 00:46:56,012
But even here
you keep your eyes open.
610
00:46:56,046 --> 00:46:58,848
You look over the top of a wave
and see a fin coming toward you,
611
00:46:58,882 --> 00:47:00,683
your heart stops.
612
00:47:00,717 --> 00:47:03,286
If you're swimming,
you really wish you weren't.
613
00:47:06,323 --> 00:47:09,125
Turned out to be only
a group of friendly porpoises...
614
00:47:09,159 --> 00:47:12,195
who were coming in
to see what was going on
in their ocean.
615
00:47:12,229 --> 00:47:14,730
Shows you how well
the nets work.
616
00:47:14,765 --> 00:47:17,166
Everyone's happy
to see the porpoises,
617
00:47:17,201 --> 00:47:20,770
because when they're around,
they seem to keep
the sharks away.
618
00:47:20,804 --> 00:47:24,941
Sharks and porpoises
have yet to integrate
in South Africa.
619
00:47:36,920 --> 00:47:40,556
After surfing,
you can ride the Zulu rickshaw
down the promenade.
620
00:47:40,591 --> 00:47:43,226
It's a lot of fun.
All the tourists do it.
621
00:47:43,260 --> 00:47:46,796
This driver wasn't very heavy,
and he wasn't used to
all the weight in the rickshaw.
622
00:47:46,830 --> 00:47:50,099
He was bouncing
along Zulu-style,
bounced once too high...
623
00:47:50,133 --> 00:47:52,034
and got stuck up there.
624
00:48:07,784 --> 00:48:12,655
Leaving Durban, heading
to Johannesburg where we catch
a plane for Australia.
625
00:48:12,689 --> 00:48:15,992
Driving through the interior
past these rugged
thorn bushes...
626
00:48:16,026 --> 00:48:19,228
that reminded us
so much of tough old Terence...
627
00:48:19,263 --> 00:48:23,266
and the dirty tricks he pulled,
like telling Mike
to go pet the zebra.
628
00:48:33,377 --> 00:48:35,611
what we remember most
about South Africa...
629
00:48:35,646 --> 00:48:38,514
is a place we discovered
with our friend Terence.
630
00:48:38,548 --> 00:48:42,618
On the map, we could see
a big cape sticking out
seven miles to sea,
631
00:48:42,653 --> 00:48:46,622
a point of land called
on the map Cape St. Francis.
632
00:48:46,657 --> 00:48:50,326
It was about three miles
across these sand dunes
to the water.
633
00:48:50,360 --> 00:48:52,895
we had no idea
what was on the other side,
634
00:48:52,930 --> 00:48:54,897
but we'd come
halfway around the world,
635
00:48:54,932 --> 00:48:57,366
so we thought
we'd go take a look.
636
00:48:57,401 --> 00:49:01,070
we struck off
across the sand dunes
led by our friend...
637
00:49:01,104 --> 00:49:03,439
"Terence of Africa."
638
00:49:22,225 --> 00:49:26,295
Halfway around the world
and halfway across the dunes,
it seemed like a bad idea.
639
00:49:26,330 --> 00:49:29,398
It started to get pretty hot.
640
00:49:29,433 --> 00:49:32,368
The odds were against us
finding surf.
641
00:49:32,402 --> 00:49:35,504
we didn't even know
if we'd find the water.
642
00:49:35,539 --> 00:49:39,008
when you go looking for surf,
you don't look for
a really big wave.
643
00:49:39,042 --> 00:49:41,978
If you found one,
you'd never ride it
in strange waters.
644
00:49:42,012 --> 00:49:43,980
It would be much too dangerous.
645
00:49:44,014 --> 00:49:48,084
what every surfer dreams
of finding is a small wave
with perfect shape.
646
00:49:48,118 --> 00:49:50,119
what we call a perfect wave.
647
00:49:50,153 --> 00:49:53,356
The odds against
finding that are
10 million-to-one.
648
00:49:53,390 --> 00:49:57,927
They finally got
their first look at
Cape St. Francis, South Africa.
649
00:50:11,508 --> 00:50:14,977
You can't tell
how good a wave is
till you actually ride it.
650
00:50:15,012 --> 00:50:18,781
On Mike's first ride,
the first five seconds,
651
00:50:18,815 --> 00:50:22,618
he knew he'd finally found
that perfect wave.
652
00:50:30,994 --> 00:50:34,697
The waves looked like
they'd been made
by some kind of a machine.
653
00:50:34,731 --> 00:50:39,101
The rides were so long,
I couldn't get most of them
on one piece of film.
654
00:50:39,136 --> 00:50:44,807
Here's Mike further along,
still riding the same wave
at Cape St. Francis.
655
00:50:51,314 --> 00:50:56,118
On some of the rides,
I timed them in the curl
for 45 seconds.
656
00:51:03,126 --> 00:51:08,998
Outside, really driving
about halfway through
the wave already, Robert August.
657
00:51:09,032 --> 00:51:12,701
Look at the wave in front.
Same perfect shape
as the wave he's on.
658
00:51:17,908 --> 00:51:20,509
After we rode Cape St. Francis,
we talked to fishermen...
659
00:51:20,544 --> 00:51:22,845
who come in this area
quite frequently.
660
00:51:22,879 --> 00:51:25,014
They told us the waves there
were funny looking things.
661
00:51:25,048 --> 00:51:27,283
They said
they looked like pipes.
662
00:51:27,317 --> 00:51:29,585
And they said the waves
always looked like that.
663
00:51:29,619 --> 00:51:32,588
Day after day,
same stupid looking waves.
664
00:51:32,622 --> 00:51:36,158
They told us of days
when the surf broke big
out by the end of the cape,
665
00:51:36,193 --> 00:51:40,729
seven miles further out,
and rolled all the way in
to where we were surfing.
666
00:51:40,764 --> 00:51:45,434
Can you imagine riding
a 15-foot wave shaped like this
for seven miles?
667
00:51:45,469 --> 00:51:48,938
You'd have a nervous breakdown
the first 50 yards.
668
00:51:48,972 --> 00:51:50,973
I had one on a three-foot wave.
669
00:51:55,078 --> 00:51:57,046
From all the information
we could gather,
670
00:51:57,080 --> 00:52:00,116
we figure it's like this
about 300 days of the year.
671
00:52:00,150 --> 00:52:05,754
The water was 70 degrees,
the prevailing wind there,
straight offshore.
672
00:52:05,789 --> 00:52:09,558
A perfect wave,
and perfect conditions.
673
00:52:09,593 --> 00:52:12,228
The only disadvantage was
you kept getting cramps
in your legs...
674
00:52:12,262 --> 00:52:14,597
from squatting down
for so long in the curl.
675
00:52:34,184 --> 00:52:36,552
The thing you can't show
is the fantastic speed...
676
00:52:36,586 --> 00:52:40,289
and that feeling you get
in the pit of your stomach.
677
00:52:40,323 --> 00:52:44,293
It's the kind of a wave
that makes you talk to yourself.
678
00:52:44,327 --> 00:52:46,729
I couldn't help but think
of the hundreds of years...
679
00:52:46,763 --> 00:52:48,931
these waves must have
been breaking here.
680
00:52:48,965 --> 00:52:52,968
But until this day,
no one had ever ridden one.
681
00:52:53,003 --> 00:52:56,005
Think of the thousands
of waves that went to waste,
682
00:52:56,039 --> 00:53:00,409
and the waves that are
going to waste right now
at Cape St. Francis.
683
00:53:02,412 --> 00:53:07,016
Out of the whole day of surfing,
we didn't see one wave section,
or break in front of itself.
684
00:53:07,050 --> 00:53:09,351
Each wave was perfect.
685
00:53:11,054 --> 00:53:14,557
The surf came in diagonally,
which gave you this long ride--
686
00:53:14,591 --> 00:53:18,360
was shallow,
only a foot or two deep
beneath Robert's board.
687
00:53:18,395 --> 00:53:22,031
Sandy bottom
with rocks along the shoreline.
688
00:53:33,210 --> 00:53:36,178
Strictly a one-man wave.
Just wasn't room
for two surfers.
689
00:53:36,213 --> 00:53:38,714
Here, Robert's really
in the right spot.
690
00:53:38,748 --> 00:53:40,716
But Mike, with the wake
of his board...
691
00:53:40,750 --> 00:53:43,452
causing the wave to break sooner
than it normally would have.
692
00:53:43,486 --> 00:53:46,488
Before long,
Mike was in the right spot.
693
00:53:48,925 --> 00:53:53,562
Every surfer dreams
of finding a place
as good as Malibu or Rincon.
694
00:53:53,597 --> 00:53:58,567
we found a place that's better,
and it's better every day.
695
00:53:58,602 --> 00:54:00,836
The best ride of the day
was one that Robert got--
696
00:54:00,870 --> 00:54:04,139
really locked in,
screaming at the top
of his lungs.
697
00:54:18,989 --> 00:54:20,956
Robert came over
the top of the wave...
698
00:54:20,991 --> 00:54:23,826
and let out a bellow
you could hear
halfway back to Cape Town.
699
00:54:23,860 --> 00:54:27,896
He was so excited, he was
almost frothing at the mouth.
700
00:54:27,931 --> 00:54:31,066
Mike was kind of excited too.
701
00:54:31,101 --> 00:54:33,636
Oh, big deal.
702
00:54:37,173 --> 00:54:40,009
we've seen a lot of surfing
so far in the endless summer.
703
00:54:40,043 --> 00:54:43,379
Let's see what it looks like now
when you're actually
in the water riding...
704
00:54:43,413 --> 00:54:47,549
as we watch the amazing footwork
of Mr. Phil Edwards in Hawaii.
705
00:55:29,459 --> 00:55:32,528
I'd like to show you
what a wipeout looks like
from the board.
706
00:55:32,562 --> 00:55:36,899
I'm pretty good
at getting wiped out,
so I'll be the stooge.
707
00:55:36,933 --> 00:55:40,803
If you watch carefully,
you can see the board pearl,
708
00:55:40,837 --> 00:55:44,707
the coral bottom
and my head come by with
bubbles coming out the ears.
709
00:55:45,975 --> 00:55:48,777
You come up looking
for your board and find...
710
00:55:48,812 --> 00:55:51,580
you have one extra
hole in the head from
the back of the camera.
711
00:55:53,116 --> 00:55:55,250
while Mike and Robert
are making their way
to Australia,
712
00:55:55,285 --> 00:55:58,053
let's see
what's going on in Hawaii.
713
00:55:58,088 --> 00:56:01,623
Lots of girls surf in Hawaii,
and many of them
are very good.
714
00:56:07,697 --> 00:56:11,467
Taking off outside
in the green...
715
00:56:11,501 --> 00:56:14,403
"chest protector,"
Bernie Ross.
716
00:56:14,437 --> 00:56:18,607
This is Haleiwa Beach
on the North Shore of
the island of Oahu in Hawaii.
717
00:56:19,809 --> 00:56:21,910
Butch Van Artsdalen
with a spinner.
718
00:56:23,213 --> 00:56:26,181
There's a shallow spot
in the reef at Haleiwa...
719
00:56:26,216 --> 00:56:28,384
right about there.
720
00:56:34,691 --> 00:56:37,359
Butch Van Artsdalen,
really a fantastic surfer.
721
00:56:37,394 --> 00:56:40,662
Switches his stance
back and forth, riding with
either foot forward.
722
00:56:40,697 --> 00:56:42,664
A few surfers do this,
but none as well as Butch.
723
00:56:42,699 --> 00:56:45,000
He does it in
impossible situations,
724
00:56:45,034 --> 00:56:47,136
like right in the middle
of a pullout in midair.
725
00:56:47,170 --> 00:56:49,271
Right here.
726
00:56:49,305 --> 00:56:53,509
Butch Van Artsdalen.
727
00:56:53,543 --> 00:56:55,978
A surfer who's not
as skilled as Butch...
728
00:56:56,012 --> 00:56:58,414
but who has as much fun
as anyone's ever had surfing...
729
00:56:58,448 --> 00:57:01,717
is Lord James Blears,
the famous wrestler.
730
00:57:01,751 --> 00:57:05,988
Here goes the Lord
with one of his famous
"Tallyho" pullouts.
731
00:57:06,022 --> 00:57:08,357
Tallyho!
732
00:57:08,391 --> 00:57:11,960
If he gets mad at the wave,
he just crushes the poor thing.
733
00:57:11,995 --> 00:57:17,266
The wave gets mad at you,
it just crushes you
right back again.
734
00:57:22,205 --> 00:57:24,173
On a crowded day at Haleiwa,
735
00:57:24,207 --> 00:57:28,477
you see boards and bodies
going in every
imaginable direction.
736
00:57:28,511 --> 00:57:31,346
Although by the calendar
it's wintertime in Hawaii,
737
00:57:31,381 --> 00:57:34,683
the water is 75 degrees,
and so is the air.
738
00:57:34,717 --> 00:57:38,053
The temperature only changes
about two degrees
during the year.
739
00:57:38,087 --> 00:57:43,225
So unless you have sensitive
skin, you can't tell whether
it's winter or summer in Hawaii.
740
00:57:43,259 --> 00:57:47,663
Hawaii is truly a land
of an endless summer.
741
00:57:47,697 --> 00:57:50,599
Fella you saw at Malibu
now riding Haleiwa,
Miki Dora.
742
00:57:50,633 --> 00:57:54,069
Miki rides well frontwards...
or backwards.
743
00:58:05,448 --> 00:58:09,785
A Hawaiian surfer
who's really fantastic
is Conrad Cunha.
744
00:58:09,819 --> 00:58:12,221
when he plants his 200 pounds
right over his feet,
745
00:58:12,255 --> 00:58:15,691
you get the feeling
nothing could knock him
off that board.
746
00:58:15,725 --> 00:58:18,594
Just like he's glued down.
747
00:58:18,628 --> 00:58:21,763
In fact his friends call him
"willie will Hold."
748
00:58:44,654 --> 00:58:48,690
Out in front of Conrad,
Australian Mick McManus,
really getting covered up.
749
00:58:59,035 --> 00:59:01,069
There was a young fellow
out surfing that day...
750
00:59:01,104 --> 00:59:04,806
who had a little trouble
with a growth on his back.
751
00:59:04,841 --> 00:59:07,109
Actually, his father
fixed him up
with a life preserver...
752
00:59:07,143 --> 00:59:09,878
so if he fell off
he'd float...
753
00:59:09,913 --> 00:59:11,880
face down.
754
00:59:13,483 --> 00:59:15,450
Dear old Dad.
755
00:59:17,320 --> 00:59:19,288
with a warm wind
in Hawaii blowing,
756
00:59:19,322 --> 00:59:21,290
you'll often see the speedy
Pacific catamarans...
757
00:59:21,324 --> 00:59:24,059
out in the Ala wai Yacht Harbor
having a ball.
758
00:59:24,093 --> 00:59:27,262
Surfers when they're not surfing
having almost as much fun.
759
00:59:29,432 --> 00:59:32,901
The gusts of wind blowing out
of Manoa Valley.
760
00:59:32,936 --> 00:59:36,271
And when the crews
hiking out to windward
trying to hold the hull down.
761
00:59:36,306 --> 00:59:38,640
Hiking out,
hanging onto a thin line.
762
00:59:38,675 --> 00:59:41,043
Thin, slippery line.
763
00:59:47,984 --> 00:59:50,652
Once you lose your crew,
you're liable to lose
the whole boat.
764
01:00:01,164 --> 01:00:03,198
These cats are a lot of fun
in the harbor,
765
01:00:03,232 --> 01:00:06,835
but they're a real thrill
on the open ocean
riding ground swells.
766
01:00:06,869 --> 01:00:10,072
Let's hop on board one now
with Bob Casey...
767
01:00:10,106 --> 01:00:12,407
and Phil Edwards
in the blue water
off Diamond Head...
768
01:00:12,442 --> 01:00:17,646
and see what it looks like from
on board charging at a ground
swell at 20 miles an hour.
769
01:00:17,680 --> 01:00:20,983
water comes off the bow
like it was shot
from a fire hose.
770
01:00:25,488 --> 01:00:27,689
Phil decided to cool off,
771
01:00:27,724 --> 01:00:30,559
troll for sharks.
772
01:00:30,593 --> 01:00:33,395
wiggle your toes three times
and strike!
773
01:00:46,809 --> 01:00:50,345
whether you like to surf
or sail,
774
01:00:50,380 --> 01:00:52,080
or surf a sailboat,
775
01:00:52,115 --> 01:00:53,782
Hawaii, even in the winter,
776
01:00:53,816 --> 01:00:57,552
is truly the land
of an endless summer.
777
01:00:59,055 --> 01:01:00,222
Let's rejoin Mike and Robert.
778
01:01:00,256 --> 01:01:02,858
They've left Africa,
traveled up through India,
779
01:01:02,892 --> 01:01:06,895
across the equator
for the third time down to
Perth, Western Australia.
780
01:01:06,929 --> 01:01:09,531
Let's hop on down there
and see what's going on.
781
01:01:17,073 --> 01:01:21,109
They met some of
the local residents,
and a few surfers too.
782
01:01:21,144 --> 01:01:24,913
A group of Australian blokes
took Mike and Robert with them
on a surfing trip.
783
01:01:24,947 --> 01:01:29,084
They drove over a thousand miles
in four days looking for surf.
784
01:01:29,118 --> 01:01:32,487
Everywhere they went
they were greeted with
a familiar cry...
785
01:01:32,522 --> 01:01:34,956
surfers have heard
a thousand times each,
786
01:01:34,991 --> 01:01:40,095
"You guys really missed it.
You should have
been here yesterday."
787
01:01:41,564 --> 01:01:44,199
The roads aren't the greatest
in western Australia.
788
01:01:44,233 --> 01:01:47,335
When there are no roads,
they just commandeer a tractor
and manure cart...
789
01:01:47,370 --> 01:01:49,738
and get to the beach that way.
790
01:01:49,772 --> 01:01:54,176
Down to a place called Ocean
Beach near the little town
of Denmark, Western Australia.
791
01:01:54,210 --> 01:01:57,479
Beautiful, deserted beach,
but not much surf this day.
792
01:01:57,513 --> 01:02:00,082
They were thinking of
hiking down to the beach
to go surfing anyway...
793
01:02:00,116 --> 01:02:02,951
when they saw
an all-too-familiar
Australian site.
794
01:02:02,985 --> 01:02:04,519
we call them sharks.
795
01:02:04,554 --> 01:02:07,856
They Australians call them
"the men in the gray suits."
796
01:02:07,890 --> 01:02:10,926
whatever you call them,
they like your body.
797
01:02:12,161 --> 01:02:15,297
The place didn't look
that red-hot anyway.
798
01:02:15,331 --> 01:02:18,934
The only wave they found
in four days of searching
around Perth...
799
01:02:18,968 --> 01:02:21,103
was the three-inch wake
of this little boat.
800
01:02:21,137 --> 01:02:23,872
Mike riding the wake unattached.
801
01:02:23,906 --> 01:02:26,942
The people on the boat said,
"Gee, Mike, you should've
been here yesterday.
802
01:02:26,976 --> 01:02:28,944
we had a bigger boat."
803
01:02:30,246 --> 01:02:32,481
He braved the shore break
and came in.
804
01:02:35,618 --> 01:02:39,821
They picked up some surplus
Australian army hats that they
hoped would change their luck.
805
01:02:41,624 --> 01:02:44,726
Maybe they'd have better luck
and strike some good surf
at their next stop...
806
01:02:44,761 --> 01:02:48,630
2,000 miles across
the Australian continent
to Melbourne.
807
01:02:49,999 --> 01:02:51,967
They were greeted by
some local surfers...
808
01:02:52,001 --> 01:02:55,003
and lost no time
in heading from the city
of Melbourne to Bells Beach...
809
01:02:55,037 --> 01:02:59,441
about 60 miles away
with high hopes
of hitting some summer surf.
810
01:03:06,015 --> 01:03:10,519
Down the dry, dusty dirt road
to Bells Beach.
811
01:03:13,756 --> 01:03:17,425
They pulled up on the bluff
to get their first look at
the famous Bells Beach surf...
812
01:03:17,460 --> 01:03:20,862
and were greeted with the cry,
"You guys really missed it.
813
01:03:20,897 --> 01:03:24,332
You should've
been here yesterday."
814
01:03:24,367 --> 01:03:28,470
There wasn't much surf, so they
just went down to the beach to
meet some of the local blokes...
815
01:03:28,504 --> 01:03:30,505
and found out
an interesting thing.
816
01:03:30,540 --> 01:03:33,642
Bells Beach is
the fly center of Australia.
817
01:03:33,676 --> 01:03:37,746
You go onto the beach
and there are 30 flies
assigned to your body.
818
01:03:37,780 --> 01:03:40,415
when you leave, they go
back to command headquarters...
819
01:03:40,449 --> 01:03:42,350
and wait for another assignment.
820
01:03:43,753 --> 01:03:46,121
They met a young fella
named Rodney Sumpter
who told them,
821
01:03:46,155 --> 01:03:49,658
"You didn't miss it yesterday.
You missed it by about
six months.
822
01:03:49,692 --> 01:03:54,429
Because it's during the
wintertime we get the best surf
at Bells, round about July."
823
01:03:54,463 --> 01:03:58,533
He said,
"Remember that dry dirt road
you came in on today?
824
01:03:58,568 --> 01:04:01,336
well, during the winter, it's
not a dry dirt road anymore."
825
01:04:07,176 --> 01:04:10,245
Rodney said the surf
isn't the same either.
826
01:04:10,279 --> 01:04:12,547
And obviously it isn't.
827
01:04:19,255 --> 01:04:21,523
He told them
of all the great days of surf...
828
01:04:21,557 --> 01:04:25,060
he and Nat Young had had
riding Bells Beach.
829
01:04:25,094 --> 01:04:27,529
Nat Young here,
only 16 years old,
830
01:04:27,563 --> 01:04:31,199
and one of
the very finest surfers
in Australia.
831
01:04:33,970 --> 01:04:36,571
The winter conditions
in Melbourne in July
are very similar...
832
01:04:36,606 --> 01:04:39,641
to the winter conditions
in Southern California
in December.
833
01:04:39,675 --> 01:04:42,744
water temperature
between 55 and 60 degrees,
834
01:04:42,778 --> 01:04:45,080
and general conditions
about the same.
835
01:04:48,184 --> 01:04:51,553
But it's Bells Beach,
Melbourne, Australia.
836
01:05:02,298 --> 01:05:06,935
Here goes Rodney Sumpter,
our storyteller, and also
a great young Australian surfer.
837
01:05:06,969 --> 01:05:09,337
He, too, 16 years old.
838
01:05:17,480 --> 01:05:20,882
"Yeah," said Rodney.
"Should've come in July."
839
01:05:20,917 --> 01:05:24,986
Rodney knew what he was talking
about, so they asked him if
he'd ever been back to Perth...
840
01:05:25,021 --> 01:05:27,789
where they'd just come from.
841
01:05:27,823 --> 01:05:32,460
Rodney laughed and said,
"Sure, I've been back there.
Heck, I'm 16 years old.
842
01:05:32,495 --> 01:05:34,896
I've been almost everywhere."
843
01:05:34,931 --> 01:05:37,766
And Rodney told Mike and Robert
all about a trip...
844
01:05:37,800 --> 01:05:40,835
he and Nat made
back to western Australia.
845
01:05:40,870 --> 01:05:43,405
Only they made their trip
during the wintertime.
846
01:05:46,075 --> 01:05:50,845
They went to the exact beach
Mike and Robert had been to--
Ocean Beach, Denmark.
847
01:05:50,880 --> 01:05:55,183
Only the day they arrived,
they had good luck and struck
some beautiful little curls.
848
01:06:02,525 --> 01:06:06,127
It's very difficult
to get good waves
when you're traveling around.
849
01:06:06,162 --> 01:06:09,831
If you live in an area,
you're bound to get a number
of good days a year.
850
01:06:09,865 --> 01:06:12,867
But if you're just
passing through
for a day or a week,
851
01:06:12,902 --> 01:06:15,837
the chances are you won't
strike a really good day.
852
01:06:15,871 --> 01:06:20,075
Nat and Rodney were lucky
at the same beach
Mike and Robert hadn't been.
853
01:06:21,911 --> 01:06:24,546
The Australians are
very competitive surfers.
854
01:06:24,580 --> 01:06:27,215
They always like to do one
better than "the yanks"
as they call us.
855
01:06:27,249 --> 01:06:30,251
So if you go out and hang five,
they'll go out and hang 10.
856
01:06:30,286 --> 01:06:33,888
You hang 10,
they'll do one better, which
is something like hang body.
857
01:06:46,335 --> 01:06:48,470
"Yeah," said Rodney.
"It was a good trip.
858
01:06:48,504 --> 01:06:50,905
"But don't worry.
You're headed for Sydney.
859
01:06:50,940 --> 01:06:53,274
"There's good surf there
quite often in the summer.
860
01:06:53,309 --> 01:06:56,311
With a little luck,
you'll strike it good."
861
01:06:58,114 --> 01:07:00,115
With a little luck,
they struck it bad.
862
01:07:00,149 --> 01:07:04,652
Three-foot wind chop,
one-foot waves
and three inches of rain.
863
01:07:04,687 --> 01:07:08,356
So they went down
to the beach and met
some of the local rogues.
864
01:07:16,766 --> 01:07:20,235
Out of any group of surfers,
there's always one
who will say the same thing.
865
01:07:20,269 --> 01:07:23,338
"You guys really missed it.
You should've
been here yesterday."
866
01:07:23,372 --> 01:07:25,273
By now,
Robert was ready to snap.
867
01:07:25,307 --> 01:07:26,908
He said,
"wait a minute, buddy.
868
01:07:26,942 --> 01:07:31,212
"If you were in Hawaii right now
at Waimea Bay,
it might really be big.
869
01:07:31,247 --> 01:07:35,216
And when I say 'big,' fella,
I really mean big."
870
01:07:35,251 --> 01:07:38,053
That's what Robert means--
really big.
871
01:07:38,087 --> 01:07:40,955
In fact, when Waimea Bay
in Hawaii gets big,
872
01:07:40,990 --> 01:07:43,158
it's a whole specialized
part of surfing.
873
01:07:43,192 --> 01:07:46,995
They'll sometimes sit
and watch it for a couple
of hours before going out.
874
01:07:47,029 --> 01:07:50,065
If it gets too big and
closes out, the closest place
you can get ashore...
875
01:07:50,099 --> 01:07:52,267
is 20 miles away.
876
01:07:52,301 --> 01:07:55,136
Special boards are used
called "big guns."
877
01:07:57,239 --> 01:08:00,141
You have to wait
for a lull in the shore break...
878
01:08:00,176 --> 01:08:02,143
before you can even
try to get out.
879
01:08:02,178 --> 01:08:04,112
Sometimes you'll stand there
for half an hour...
880
01:08:04,146 --> 01:08:06,214
waiting for a chance to
get through this shore break.
881
01:08:23,099 --> 01:08:26,167
People started to gather
and watch as the surfers
who made it out...
882
01:08:26,202 --> 01:08:28,470
to sit in groups
and talk nervously
in low tones...
883
01:08:28,504 --> 01:08:32,006
waiting for
the first big set of waves.
884
01:08:32,041 --> 01:08:36,411
It's not uncommon
to see fire engines
and ambulances on the beach.
885
01:08:36,445 --> 01:08:38,513
when the first big sets
come marching through,
886
01:08:38,547 --> 01:08:41,182
out you paddle
with your heart
in your mouth.
887
01:08:57,533 --> 01:09:00,502
Someone's gotta turn around
and take off on the first wave.
888
01:09:00,536 --> 01:09:03,471
Miki Dora did...
and wished he hadn't.
889
01:09:24,727 --> 01:09:27,562
Greg Knoll rode Waimea Bay
with such aggressiveness,
890
01:09:27,596 --> 01:09:30,632
he earned himself
the nickname of "The Bull,"
891
01:09:30,666 --> 01:09:33,902
hanging on through
unbelievable masses
of white water.
892
01:09:43,579 --> 01:09:47,248
Only a handful of surfers
actually ride these big waves.
893
01:09:47,283 --> 01:09:50,818
Some of them are sportsmen.
Some of them are nuts.
894
01:09:53,289 --> 01:09:56,624
Waimea Bay on the North Shore
of Oahu in Hawaii.
895
01:09:56,659 --> 01:10:00,728
This will give you an idea
of the fantastic power
of these waves.
896
01:10:00,763 --> 01:10:03,064
A surfboard is
as buoyant as a cork.
897
01:10:03,098 --> 01:10:06,234
It takes a tremendous
amount of power
to hold one underwater.
898
01:10:06,268 --> 01:10:10,705
when Dick Brewer gets wiped out,
watch how long his surfboard
gets held down.
899
01:10:10,739 --> 01:10:14,309
You'll finally see it pop up
in the upper right hand corner
of the picture.
900
01:10:17,112 --> 01:10:20,815
Imagine what his body's
been doing under there
all that time.
901
01:10:31,327 --> 01:10:33,828
The most dangerous thing
in a big wave...
902
01:10:33,862 --> 01:10:37,265
is to get hit
with your surfboard
or someone else's board.
903
01:10:37,299 --> 01:10:41,936
A surfboard hurled with
the force of one of these waves
can cut you in half.
904
01:10:41,971 --> 01:10:45,373
So the most common sight
you see at Waimea is
surfers diving off,
905
01:10:45,407 --> 01:10:49,177
trying to get away
from their board
underwater to safety.
906
01:10:49,211 --> 01:10:52,046
They're diving
in awkward positions--
literally diving--
907
01:10:52,081 --> 01:10:54,082
to save their own lives.
908
01:11:14,336 --> 01:11:17,171
when you see one
of these big waves
letting down in front of you,
909
01:11:17,206 --> 01:11:21,075
your heart's beating so fast,
you can do a standing
broad jump of 15 feet...
910
01:11:21,110 --> 01:11:22,710
and not even know it.
911
01:11:26,882 --> 01:11:29,817
Just paddling out
can be a national disaster.
912
01:11:35,724 --> 01:11:39,294
You take off,
make the steep drop,
913
01:11:39,328 --> 01:11:44,465
hear the white water
rumbling behind you
and feel the spray on your back.
914
01:11:44,500 --> 01:11:47,502
You see you're going to make it
into the safety of the shoulder.
915
01:11:47,536 --> 01:11:49,504
It feels like
the happiest day of your life.
916
01:11:50,673 --> 01:11:53,241
Waimea Bay has only
been ridden since 1958...
917
01:11:53,275 --> 01:11:55,543
when the first group
of surfers challenged it.
918
01:11:55,577 --> 01:11:59,414
Yet surfers watched it break
for 10 years before going out.
919
01:11:59,448 --> 01:12:02,150
Can you imagine the courage
it took to be the first?
920
01:12:05,487 --> 01:12:09,090
If you could harness the power
of one of these waves,
you could light a city...
921
01:12:09,124 --> 01:12:11,025
for a week.
922
01:12:12,361 --> 01:12:14,595
This one really putting on
a display of power,
923
01:12:14,630 --> 01:12:18,900
shooting plumes of white water
40 feet in the air,
924
01:12:18,934 --> 01:12:21,402
almost defying humans
to challenge it.
925
01:12:22,504 --> 01:12:24,472
"Yeah, fella,
you really missed it."
926
01:12:24,506 --> 01:12:27,342
The guy said,
"well, we're going out surfing
here. You wanna go out?"
927
01:12:27,376 --> 01:12:29,277
Robert said,
"No. I don't think so."
928
01:12:29,311 --> 01:12:32,213
The Aussie said,
"Well, some of the kids
are going out anyhow."
929
01:12:32,247 --> 01:12:35,883
"Some of the kids in Australia
are too much."
930
01:12:39,388 --> 01:12:42,590
Mike and Robert figured,
"Well, it's not
that bad out there."
931
01:12:42,624 --> 01:12:44,525
They might as well go out.
932
01:12:48,130 --> 01:12:50,832
This is one of the girl surfers
in Australia.
Her name is Pearl.
933
01:12:50,866 --> 01:12:53,267
"Hi, Mike."
934
01:12:54,970 --> 01:12:57,004
Her bathing suit
is nothing unique down there.
935
01:12:57,039 --> 01:13:00,041
Most of the girls
wear the same kind of a suit.
936
01:13:00,075 --> 01:13:02,477
There's another girl
paddling out.
Same type.
937
01:13:02,511 --> 01:13:05,012
Doesn't bother anybody.
938
01:13:05,047 --> 01:13:08,416
But it bothered Robert,
and it bothered Mike.
939
01:13:28,103 --> 01:13:30,605
Robert had never
done a spinner in his life.
940
01:13:32,408 --> 01:13:37,044
when the girls get wiped out,
they have some trouble
losing parts of these suits.
941
01:13:37,079 --> 01:13:41,082
The darn things are so little
they roll up in a ball and go
down a clam hole or something...
942
01:13:41,116 --> 01:13:43,351
and they never find them again.
943
01:13:43,385 --> 01:13:46,587
The lifeguards down there
carry spare bathing suits.
944
01:13:46,622 --> 01:13:48,923
Carry 15 in a Band-Aid box.
945
01:13:50,325 --> 01:13:53,094
Mike Hynson and Robert August
were quick to make friends...
946
01:13:53,128 --> 01:13:56,464
with the natives
in any country they visited.
947
01:14:02,271 --> 01:14:04,906
Pearl had to go home.
Mike was one of
the last of the good guys,
948
01:14:04,940 --> 01:14:07,074
so he said
he'd run her on home.
949
01:14:09,044 --> 01:14:12,547
All Robert could say was,
"Ah, fudge."
950
01:14:21,623 --> 01:14:25,526
Leaving Australia,
we're headed 1,200 miles
across the Tasman Sea...
951
01:14:25,561 --> 01:14:26,994
to New Zealand.
952
01:14:27,029 --> 01:14:28,996
This is really
a beautiful country,
953
01:14:29,031 --> 01:14:31,332
with high mountains
and waterfalls.
954
01:14:31,366 --> 01:14:34,936
It's about the size
of California, but with only
two million people.
955
01:14:37,573 --> 01:14:40,241
There are 10 million sheep
in New Zealand.
956
01:14:40,275 --> 01:14:42,977
More sheep than people.
957
01:14:43,011 --> 01:14:45,112
This is one of the beautiful
East Coast beaches.
958
01:14:45,147 --> 01:14:49,116
Perfect conditions,
but surf that rarely
gets over three feet.
959
01:14:49,151 --> 01:14:51,719
On the West Coast,
it's a little more rugged.
960
01:15:00,095 --> 01:15:03,698
The surf on the west Coast
rarely drops below six feet.
961
01:15:03,732 --> 01:15:08,936
The wind usually blows
about 20 knots, making
poor surfing conditions.
962
01:15:08,971 --> 01:15:13,341
John Paine and Tim Murdoch,
two New Zealand surfers
we met--
963
01:15:13,375 --> 01:15:16,744
they took us on a trip
leaving from Tim's house
near Auckland,
964
01:15:16,778 --> 01:15:19,180
heading to the extreme
northeast tip of the island,
965
01:15:19,214 --> 01:15:22,149
a place called Ahipara.
966
01:15:22,184 --> 01:15:26,521
Driving there Tim and John
explained Ahipara
was a well-known surfing spot.
967
01:15:26,555 --> 01:15:31,225
A lot of people surf there.
Last year, they figured
probably... three or four.
968
01:15:32,928 --> 01:15:36,731
Here's the cove at Ahipara
on the extreme northeast cape...
969
01:15:36,765 --> 01:15:38,866
of New Zealand's North Island.
970
01:15:40,636 --> 01:15:43,070
Robert and John Paine
paddling out for a wave...
971
01:15:43,105 --> 01:15:46,007
with horses clomping along
the path in the background--
972
01:15:46,041 --> 01:15:48,743
people coming in
from the sheep ranch.
973
01:15:56,952 --> 01:16:01,355
This is considered
a fair sized day
for New Zealand's East Coast.
974
01:16:11,667 --> 01:16:15,202
That's part of a paddle wheel
of an old steamship
that went aground.
975
01:16:17,606 --> 01:16:21,309
It's Christmastime
in New Zealand right
in the middle of their summer.
976
01:16:21,343 --> 01:16:26,714
They think of Santa Claus
as a guy who wears Bermudas
and hangs out on the beach.
977
01:16:32,955 --> 01:16:35,356
Tim and John went home
to spend Christmas
with their parents...
978
01:16:35,390 --> 01:16:39,126
and left Mike and Robert
to explore New Zealand
by themselves.
979
01:16:40,862 --> 01:16:44,532
Heading from
the East to West Coast,
you pass through the mountains.
980
01:16:44,566 --> 01:16:47,034
Mike and Robert stop
to sample a little
of the world-famous...
981
01:16:47,069 --> 01:16:49,270
New Zealand trout fishing.
982
01:16:50,939 --> 01:16:53,507
A pleasant way
to spend a day,
983
01:16:53,542 --> 01:16:56,877
and also a good way
to pick up something to eat.
984
01:16:56,912 --> 01:17:01,215
They fished for a few hours
and caught quite a few trout.
985
01:17:01,249 --> 01:17:03,951
This is just a baby trout
by New Zealand standards.
986
01:17:03,986 --> 01:17:05,953
It only weighed about
two pounds.
987
01:17:05,988 --> 01:17:10,057
It has to be over two pounds
to even be legal size.
988
01:17:10,092 --> 01:17:12,093
Here's some of
the regular fellers they caught.
989
01:17:12,127 --> 01:17:15,429
Four and five pound
rainbow and brown trout.
990
01:17:18,500 --> 01:17:21,535
That evening, they had
roast trout on a stick.
991
01:17:21,570 --> 01:17:24,905
Page 44 of their
woody woodchuck manual.
992
01:17:24,940 --> 01:17:27,375
But it tasted pretty good.
993
01:17:27,409 --> 01:17:30,845
They had enough fish for weeks.
They had trout for dinner,
994
01:17:30,879 --> 01:17:33,047
trout sandwiches for lunch,
995
01:17:33,081 --> 01:17:36,651
flaked trout
in their mush in the morning,
996
01:17:36,685 --> 01:17:38,386
rotten trout.
997
01:17:43,325 --> 01:17:47,161
They camped out that night in
the mountains of New Zealand...
998
01:17:47,195 --> 01:17:50,164
and struck off the next morning
for the west Coast...
999
01:17:50,198 --> 01:17:53,000
and a place called Raglan.
1000
01:17:53,035 --> 01:17:55,002
It's an amazing country
to drive through.
1001
01:17:55,037 --> 01:17:57,405
One minute there's
a cool mountain stream.
1002
01:17:57,439 --> 01:18:00,841
Around the corner,
a thermal area with a pit
of bubbling mud.
1003
01:18:02,778 --> 01:18:06,447
On down to Raglan
on New Zealand's west Coast.
1004
01:18:18,827 --> 01:18:24,098
This is the huge cove at Raglan,
many miles across
and a couple of miles deep.
1005
01:18:26,201 --> 01:18:30,304
The lines of surf
rapping in from the Tasman Sea.
1006
01:18:30,338 --> 01:18:35,342
It was blowing about 15 knots,
which is considered fairly
glassy for the west Coast.
1007
01:18:36,978 --> 01:18:39,847
watch Mike catch his fin
on a rock here
just underwater.
1008
01:18:41,283 --> 01:18:44,085
Oop.
1009
01:18:44,119 --> 01:18:46,087
It was Christmas Day,
1010
01:18:46,121 --> 01:18:50,624
and they had the huge cove
at Raglan all to themselves.
1011
01:18:53,995 --> 01:18:57,498
The most unique thing
about this place is
the length of the ride.
1012
01:18:57,532 --> 01:19:01,001
The ride's so long
it's ridiculous.
1013
01:19:01,036 --> 01:19:02,803
I can't even show you
a complete ride.
1014
01:19:02,838 --> 01:19:06,540
It would take the whole
second part of the film.
1015
01:19:06,575 --> 01:19:09,376
So I'll show you
kind of highlights
of one of Robert's rides.
1016
01:19:09,411 --> 01:19:11,579
This is about
the middle part of the ride.
1017
01:19:13,248 --> 01:19:16,784
Later in the day,
here's some more
of the middle part of the ride.
1018
01:19:19,888 --> 01:19:23,157
Once the novelty
of the long ride wears off,
it gets kind of boring.
1019
01:19:23,191 --> 01:19:26,727
You start talking to yourself,
reciting poetry, yodeling--
1020
01:19:26,762 --> 01:19:28,863
anything to keep
your mind occupied.
1021
01:19:31,032 --> 01:19:34,969
This is the shore break.
It only lasts
for about 15 minutes.
1022
01:19:36,671 --> 01:19:39,707
You go out surfing
for the day at Raglan,
you get two rides--
1023
01:19:39,741 --> 01:19:42,877
one after breakfast,
and one after lunch.
1024
01:19:42,911 --> 01:19:45,012
If you try for three,
you starve to death.
1025
01:19:52,053 --> 01:19:55,156
Surfers here don't carry wax.
They carry life-raft rations.
1026
01:19:57,659 --> 01:19:59,894
Mike and Robert riding it
together in the afternoon...
1027
01:19:59,928 --> 01:20:02,463
so they'd have someone
to talk to.
1028
01:20:02,497 --> 01:20:04,565
Mike was discussing
highlights of the trip.
1029
01:20:04,599 --> 01:20:06,400
Robert kept saying,
"watch where
you're going, Mike.
1030
01:20:06,434 --> 01:20:09,136
If you fall off,
you won't get in
till tomorrow morning."
1031
01:20:21,416 --> 01:20:25,653
Drying off after the day
of surfing in the afternoon
summer sun of New Zealand,
1032
01:20:25,687 --> 01:20:29,557
they remarked to each other
how ironic their trip
had been so far.
1033
01:20:29,591 --> 01:20:32,927
In Africa, where they really
didn't expect to find surf,
1034
01:20:32,961 --> 01:20:34,929
they found such good waves.
1035
01:20:34,963 --> 01:20:39,800
In Australia that has good surf,
they'd been unlucky
and hadn't gotten anything.
1036
01:20:39,835 --> 01:20:42,069
Here in New Zealand,
they'd had a few
pretty good days,
1037
01:20:42,103 --> 01:20:45,372
but they knew
it could've been even better.
1038
01:20:45,407 --> 01:20:49,210
That's what it's like
when you're following
the summer around the world...
1039
01:20:49,244 --> 01:20:51,345
looking for places to surf.
1040
01:20:55,317 --> 01:20:58,018
Their next stop
would be the island of Tahiti.
1041
01:20:58,053 --> 01:21:01,255
Ask anyone who's been there
and they'll tell you
the same thing--
1042
01:21:01,289 --> 01:21:04,058
there's no surf in Tahiti.
1043
01:21:04,092 --> 01:21:07,194
The reason they say
is because this barrier reef...
1044
01:21:07,229 --> 01:21:10,397
cuts up all the surf
coming into the beach.
1045
01:21:10,432 --> 01:21:13,634
But it makes for
crystal-clear waters
in the lagoons.
1046
01:21:16,771 --> 01:21:21,508
This is about six feet
of water we're flying over with
coral and sand on the bottom.
1047
01:21:28,984 --> 01:21:32,920
Didn't take Mike and Robert long
to get into the swing of things
in Tahiti.
1048
01:21:32,954 --> 01:21:34,955
A flower behind that ear
means they're not married.
1049
01:21:34,990 --> 01:21:38,125
And they kept hollering,
"Hey! I'm not married!"
1050
01:21:38,159 --> 01:21:42,429
Although there's no surf,
they thought they'd go
paddle in the lagoon.
1051
01:21:42,464 --> 01:21:46,600
And although there's no surf,
they found something
that looked kind of like a wave.
1052
01:21:49,437 --> 01:21:53,340
They called this place
"El Stumpo."
1053
01:21:53,375 --> 01:21:56,911
They named it El Stumpo
after the famous
Polynesian explorer...
1054
01:21:56,945 --> 01:21:58,946
Leonardo El Stumpo.
1055
01:22:05,353 --> 01:22:08,923
The waves weren't gigantic,
but they were well formed
little devils.
1056
01:22:15,830 --> 01:22:19,099
You could see the waves
breaking on the reef
in the background.
1057
01:22:19,134 --> 01:22:21,101
There was a pass
through the barrier reef,
1058
01:22:21,136 --> 01:22:24,338
and the swells
were coming through
and breaking near the beach.
1059
01:22:36,751 --> 01:22:40,321
For such a tiny little wave,
you could really get
worked over.
1060
01:22:43,558 --> 01:22:45,559
Everyone said
there was no surf in Tahiti,
1061
01:22:45,593 --> 01:22:48,829
but they had already found some,
so they thought they'd better
drive around the island...
1062
01:22:48,863 --> 01:22:50,431
and take a good look.
1063
01:22:50,465 --> 01:22:53,200
Off they went
through the famous town
of Papeete.
1064
01:22:54,836 --> 01:22:58,339
You get to one side
of the island,
and you find everyone's wrong.
1065
01:22:58,373 --> 01:23:02,109
There is surf in Tahiti.
There's no barrier reef at all
on one side of the island.
1066
01:23:02,143 --> 01:23:06,413
There's all kinds of surf
rolling into
the black sand beaches.
1067
01:23:06,448 --> 01:23:08,716
Just a matter
of finding the right beach...
1068
01:23:08,750 --> 01:23:12,186
with the right
bottom contours,
the right swell direction,
1069
01:23:12,220 --> 01:23:14,521
and you'll find
a place to surf.
1070
01:23:14,556 --> 01:23:17,558
we found an interesting spot.
we called it "Ins and Outs"...
1071
01:23:17,592 --> 01:23:21,462
because you could ride
the wave in,
or you could ride the wave out.
1072
01:23:30,438 --> 01:23:33,640
The wave going out
had better shape than the wave
did coming in,
1073
01:23:33,675 --> 01:23:36,377
so they spent
most of the time
riding out.
1074
01:23:40,949 --> 01:23:43,851
The waves would roll in,
up the steep beach,
1075
01:23:43,885 --> 01:23:47,087
back down the steep beach
and right back out to sea again.
1076
01:23:48,456 --> 01:23:51,525
Had enough shape and power--
you could turn, run the nose,
1077
01:23:51,559 --> 01:23:53,560
just like you were riding in.
1078
01:23:53,595 --> 01:23:55,562
Except you weren't.
You were riding out.
1079
01:23:56,831 --> 01:23:58,465
The Tahitian kids had ridden
out most of their lives,
1080
01:23:58,500 --> 01:24:01,635
and they were busy
riding in on their surf mats
and belly boards.
1081
01:24:01,669 --> 01:24:04,905
But when they met the out part,
shazam!
1082
01:24:06,975 --> 01:24:10,444
Three ways to go--
in, out and up.
1083
01:24:18,853 --> 01:24:20,854
Everyone inside was drowning.
1084
01:24:20,889 --> 01:24:24,158
Here's the Royal
Tahitian kid, Irving.
1085
01:24:24,192 --> 01:24:26,794
He's got the shiniest skin
on the block.
1086
01:24:30,765 --> 01:24:34,301
Mike with a record
long ride out at Ins and Outs,
1087
01:24:34,335 --> 01:24:36,303
heading straight out to sea,
1088
01:24:36,337 --> 01:24:38,305
straight toward Hawaii.
1089
01:24:44,312 --> 01:24:49,316
I couldn't help but feel sorry
for the Tahitian kids
having so much fun surfing.
1090
01:24:49,350 --> 01:24:51,485
They didn't know
there was no surf in Tahiti.
1091
01:24:55,857 --> 01:24:58,125
This place got
kind of confusing,
1092
01:24:58,159 --> 01:25:00,761
so Mike and Robert
paddled down the beach
a few hundred yards...
1093
01:25:00,795 --> 01:25:02,362
and found another surfing spot.
1094
01:25:02,397 --> 01:25:05,299
They called this other spot
"The Other Spot."
1095
01:25:05,333 --> 01:25:07,434
It was a pretty good spot too.
1096
01:25:13,408 --> 01:25:16,543
The best waves came through
right in the middle
of a rain squall.
1097
01:25:16,578 --> 01:25:20,781
It was kind of weird
when it rained.
The rain was 75 degrees.
1098
01:25:20,815 --> 01:25:23,517
The water was 75 degrees.
1099
01:25:23,551 --> 01:25:26,253
The air temperature
was 75 degrees.
1100
01:25:26,287 --> 01:25:30,557
It was so pleasant,
it almost made you
sick to your stomach.
1101
01:25:30,592 --> 01:25:34,761
The people in Tahiti
were really insistent
about there being no surf.
1102
01:25:34,796 --> 01:25:39,233
Mike came out of the water once
and a man said, "Hey, there's
no waves in Tahiti."
1103
01:25:39,267 --> 01:25:42,402
He'd been standing right there
watching Mike surf.
1104
01:25:42,437 --> 01:25:44,905
Mike didn't want
to be a smart aleck,
so he just said,
1105
01:25:44,939 --> 01:25:49,476
"Well, sir,
they're pretty good things,
whatever you call 'em."
1106
01:25:49,511 --> 01:25:52,846
Here's Mike
with a nice ride
on a Tahitian thing.
1107
01:26:13,034 --> 01:26:16,303
On their last evening,
they set out beyond
the breaker line...
1108
01:26:16,337 --> 01:26:19,840
and remarked to each other
how ironic it had been again.
1109
01:26:19,874 --> 01:26:22,509
Here in Tahiti
where there's not supposed
to be any surf...
1110
01:26:22,544 --> 01:26:27,114
they found three places,
El Stumpo, Ins and Outs,
1111
01:26:27,148 --> 01:26:29,383
and the Other Spot.
1112
01:26:29,417 --> 01:26:32,085
Their next stop
would be Hawaii.
1113
01:26:33,121 --> 01:26:35,589
On the plane,
they were anxious
to get to Hawaii.
1114
01:26:35,623 --> 01:26:39,026
They didn't have to look
for surf anymore. They knew
right where to find it.
1115
01:26:39,060 --> 01:26:43,330
Mike was itching to get
his feet in a board
in Hawaii and get a few waves.
1116
01:26:43,364 --> 01:26:45,966
It wasn't long
before he did.
1117
01:27:05,520 --> 01:27:08,555
Good old Hawaii.
It sure was great to be back
in the Islands.
1118
01:27:08,590 --> 01:27:13,260
No more searching for surf.
Just go out and ride
in the warm blue water.
1119
01:27:13,294 --> 01:27:16,863
Good old Hawaii
and the friendly natives.
1120
01:27:16,898 --> 01:27:19,233
And the junior birdmen.
1121
01:27:30,545 --> 01:27:33,614
Ooh! Oh!
1122
01:27:35,883 --> 01:27:40,153
Good old Hawaii
and the dirty old
nasty Pipeline.
1123
01:27:40,188 --> 01:27:43,590
This is the surfing spot
that's hardly even
a surfing spot.
1124
01:27:43,625 --> 01:27:46,159
It's more like
a Roman gladiator's pit.
1125
01:27:50,398 --> 01:27:52,833
So dangerous,
it almost defies description.
1126
01:27:52,867 --> 01:27:54,601
The way the waves break
is bad enough.
1127
01:27:54,636 --> 01:27:57,571
But it's also very shallow,
and on the bottom is coral.
1128
01:27:57,605 --> 01:28:02,909
Not the usual formation,
but coral that sticks up like
big overgrown railroad spikes.
1129
01:28:08,116 --> 01:28:10,284
You hang onto your board,
1130
01:28:10,318 --> 01:28:14,554
you go over the falls with it
every time, guaranteed.
1131
01:28:14,589 --> 01:28:18,125
Any wipeout at the Pipeline
in Hawaii is a bad one.
1132
01:28:22,897 --> 01:28:25,065
And most places,
when someone gets wiped out,
1133
01:28:25,099 --> 01:28:27,234
everyone watching
on the beach laughs.
1134
01:28:27,268 --> 01:28:30,337
No one laughs at the Pipeline.
They wait and see
if you come up again.
1135
01:28:30,371 --> 01:28:33,106
No one laughed very hard
when Bob Pike came out
of the water...
1136
01:28:33,141 --> 01:28:36,109
with a broken collarbone
and three broken ribs...
1137
01:28:36,144 --> 01:28:38,111
from bouncing off
the shallow bottom.
1138
01:28:39,681 --> 01:28:41,648
You ride this place
with a different attitude.
1139
01:28:41,683 --> 01:28:46,586
You don't want to fool around.
You want to make that wave
more than anything in the world.
1140
01:28:46,621 --> 01:28:50,557
A surfer who rode the place
better than anyone thought
ever imaginable...
1141
01:28:50,591 --> 01:28:52,893
was Butch Van Artsdalen.
1142
01:28:52,927 --> 01:28:56,963
The waves came marching through
and Butch kept doing
impossible things,
1143
01:28:56,998 --> 01:29:00,133
getting impossible rides
on impossible waves to ride.
1144
01:29:23,391 --> 01:29:25,359
It seemed like
Butch was invincible,
1145
01:29:25,393 --> 01:29:29,963
like he could do nothing wrong,
coming through one
unbelievable tube after another,
1146
01:29:29,997 --> 01:29:32,165
almost making this wave--
Not quite.
1147
01:29:32,200 --> 01:29:35,936
The wave hit
his board dead-center,
and Butch had two halves.
1148
01:29:40,007 --> 01:29:43,343
You can drive a car
over a surfboard
and it won't break.
1149
01:29:43,378 --> 01:29:47,214
But a wave at the Pipeline
can easily snap one in half.
1150
01:29:56,357 --> 01:29:59,259
when the collapsing wave
squirts air and water
out the end,
1151
01:29:59,293 --> 01:30:01,428
it sounds like
a jet plane taking off.
1152
01:30:01,462 --> 01:30:04,331
If you're standing there,
you get blown
right off your board.
1153
01:30:11,506 --> 01:30:14,708
There's so much adrenaline
pumped through your system
on a wave like this...
1154
01:30:14,742 --> 01:30:17,310
that when you get
to the shoulder,
the easy part,
1155
01:30:17,345 --> 01:30:21,014
you're so relieved,
you just sometimes fall off
in a semi faint.
1156
01:30:23,084 --> 01:30:27,120
The worst wipeout I've ever seen
was Danny Derone
at the Pipeline.
1157
01:30:27,155 --> 01:30:29,623
An upside-down, head-dip,
human pile driver.
1158
01:30:29,657 --> 01:30:32,058
watch this terrible wipeout.
1159
01:30:36,898 --> 01:30:40,167
Danny came up smiling,
and we thought he'd snapped
something loose in his head.
1160
01:30:42,003 --> 01:30:44,805
Mike and Robert,
their first day back in Hawaii,
1161
01:30:44,839 --> 01:30:47,674
and already they'd been
into some good waves.
1162
01:30:47,708 --> 01:30:50,444
They'd be into
some more good waves
the next morning.
1163
01:30:50,478 --> 01:30:54,915
But they couldn't help but
think back to the many things
they'd already seen and done.
1164
01:30:54,949 --> 01:30:59,085
The animals,
and especially the perfect wave
they discovered and rode...
1165
01:30:59,120 --> 01:31:01,788
at Cape St. Francis
in South Africa.
1166
01:31:04,859 --> 01:31:09,329
They missed these things,
but there wasn't a much
better place to be than Hawaii.
1167
01:31:10,498 --> 01:31:13,200
In a couple of months
when the season changed,
1168
01:31:13,234 --> 01:31:16,770
they'd return
with the summer season
to their homes in California.
1169
01:31:25,379 --> 01:31:27,681
with enough time
and enough money,
1170
01:31:27,715 --> 01:31:29,382
you could spend
the rest of your life...
1171
01:31:29,417 --> 01:31:32,219
following the summer
around the world.
1172
01:31:32,253 --> 01:31:34,754
But for now,
the endless summer must end.
1173
01:31:34,789 --> 01:31:38,091
This is Bruce Brown.
Thank you for watching.
1174
01:31:38,125 --> 01:31:40,026
I hope you enjoyed my film.
103132
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