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1
00:00:05,960 --> 00:00:07,440
The thing
about the Alaska coast
2
00:00:07,440 --> 00:00:13,640
is that there's still places
that are unknown.
3
00:00:13,640 --> 00:00:17,840
Lots of islands,
rocky shorelines.
4
00:00:21,800 --> 00:00:25,800
Where we were working,
well above the Arctic Circle,
5
00:00:25,800 --> 00:00:29,240
you have to have
everything with you.
6
00:00:29,440 --> 00:00:32,960
We took 136 crates of stuff.
7
00:00:32,960 --> 00:00:37,320
That's a measure of
the remoteness of the place.
8
00:00:37,320 --> 00:00:39,680
Alaska's a frontier.
9
00:00:39,680 --> 00:00:42,040
It's a powerful place.
10
00:00:43,560 --> 00:00:48,520
In the 20th century, it was oil;
in the 19th century, gold.
11
00:00:48,520 --> 00:00:50,720
But this land lured
fortune seekers
12
00:00:50,720 --> 00:00:52,400
long before then.
13
00:00:52,400 --> 00:00:55,960
What they encountered
was a vast, relentless,
14
00:00:56,120 --> 00:00:58,680
dangerous landscape.
15
00:00:58,680 --> 00:01:00,000
We're now finding shipwrecks
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00:01:00,000 --> 00:01:03,360
of the first outsiders
who came here.
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00:01:03,360 --> 00:01:06,440
We know
the Russians came to Alaska.
18
00:01:06,600 --> 00:01:12,120
But nobody had ever found
a Russian-era shipwreck
19
00:01:12,360 --> 00:01:14,840
in the United States.
20
00:01:14,840 --> 00:01:18,880
What was it doing,
and why was it lost?
21
00:01:18,880 --> 00:01:21,560
In Alaska's far north,
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00:01:21,560 --> 00:01:23,920
there were 32 vessels
that were lost
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00:01:23,920 --> 00:01:27,080
over the span of one week.
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00:01:27,080 --> 00:01:29,320
It changed the world.
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00:01:29,600 --> 00:01:31,320
What was still there?
26
00:01:31,320 --> 00:01:33,520
And why did people
risk everything
27
00:01:33,520 --> 00:01:35,920
in these frigid waters?
28
00:01:37,600 --> 00:01:39,760
Alaska can be unforgiving,
29
00:01:39,760 --> 00:01:44,680
particularly if you go in
blind, unequipped,
30
00:01:44,680 --> 00:01:46,320
or foolishly.
31
00:01:58,040 --> 00:02:03,920
When you come into
Kodiak, you see fishing boats,
32
00:02:03,920 --> 00:02:05,760
you hear the seagulls,
33
00:02:06,040 --> 00:02:08,400
you see the sea lions
and hear them barking.
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00:02:10,120 --> 00:02:12,480
You could be there in 1850,
35
00:02:12,480 --> 00:02:14,600
and you would have
seen and heard
36
00:02:14,960 --> 00:02:17,720
those same identical
sights and sounds.
37
00:02:32,880 --> 00:02:33,840
Ahoy!
38
00:02:34,080 --> 00:02:34,960
Come aboard.
39
00:02:34,960 --> 00:02:36,120
How's fishing?
40
00:02:36,120 --> 00:02:37,800
Oh, you know.
41
00:02:37,800 --> 00:02:39,560
Wow, that's
a lot of crabs.
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00:02:39,560 --> 00:02:41,200
Can I take a look at one?
43
00:02:45,760 --> 00:02:47,160
I'm a biologist.
44
00:02:47,160 --> 00:02:49,080
Oh, there we go,
that's a big boy.
45
00:02:49,360 --> 00:02:55,240
I went to Alaska in 1984,
specifically to study crabs.
46
00:02:55,240 --> 00:02:57,480
I've studied every crab
in the world,
47
00:02:57,480 --> 00:03:00,720
and I've been pinched by
every crab in the world.
48
00:03:00,720 --> 00:03:03,480
Little did I know that Alaska
would have a hold on me
49
00:03:03,480 --> 00:03:06,160
for the next 20 years.
50
00:03:07,720 --> 00:03:10,960
Kodiak lies off
Alaska's southern coast.
51
00:03:10,960 --> 00:03:14,360
It is an island with a lot
52
00:03:14,360 --> 00:03:17,560
of very deep, narrow bays.
53
00:03:19,080 --> 00:03:22,360
In 1991, I got some money
to use a submarine,
54
00:03:22,360 --> 00:03:26,840
{\an8}and about a week after
starting this project,
55
00:03:26,840 --> 00:03:31,240
we literally ran into
a wall of crabs.
56
00:03:31,240 --> 00:03:32,840
And it was in the news
in Kodiak,
57
00:03:32,840 --> 00:03:35,360
and it got my name out there
58
00:03:35,360 --> 00:03:40,560
as someone who was doing
interesting things underwater.
59
00:03:40,840 --> 00:03:44,520
Sometime in the spring of 1991,
out of the blue,
60
00:03:44,800 --> 00:03:49,280
I got a manila envelope in
the mail from Mike Yarborough.
61
00:03:49,480 --> 00:03:53,280
He introduced himself and
he said he was an archaeologist.
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00:03:53,280 --> 00:03:55,480
I had no idea at the time,
but Mike's letter
63
00:03:55,480 --> 00:03:59,520
was the beginning of
an incredible adventure.
64
00:03:59,520 --> 00:04:02,240
He'd seen the stories
in the newspaper
65
00:04:02,240 --> 00:04:06,480
about me diving in Kodiak,
and he wrote,
66
00:04:06,480 --> 00:04:11,080
"I thought that you'd be
a good person to talk to
67
00:04:11,080 --> 00:04:15,920
about a shipwreck in Kodiak."
68
00:04:15,920 --> 00:04:18,080
The "Kad'iak."
69
00:04:18,080 --> 00:04:20,320
The hairs stood up on my arm.
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00:04:20,320 --> 00:04:24,400
I, I literally got chills.
71
00:04:24,400 --> 00:04:28,320
In the letter, Mike outlined
this incredible legend of a ship
72
00:04:28,320 --> 00:04:31,880
that was abandoned
after hitting a reef.
73
00:04:31,880 --> 00:04:35,560
It drifted, unmanned,
for eight miles,
74
00:04:35,560 --> 00:04:39,160
and ended up in a lagoon
called Icon Bay,
75
00:04:39,160 --> 00:04:43,520
the sacred burial place
of a Russian saint.
76
00:04:43,520 --> 00:04:47,480
Somehow, the ship sank with
its mast poking above the water,
77
00:04:47,880 --> 00:04:51,680
forming the shape of
a Russian Orthodox cross.
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00:04:51,680 --> 00:04:54,920
All this happened
without a soul aboard.
79
00:04:54,920 --> 00:04:59,520
And nobody's seen a trace
of the Kad'yak ever since.
80
00:04:59,520 --> 00:05:02,600
Now, that story's got to be
too good to be true, right?
81
00:05:02,600 --> 00:05:05,320
When I first heard it,
I thought, nah.
82
00:05:05,320 --> 00:05:08,040
That's, that's just...
it's mythical.
83
00:05:08,280 --> 00:05:10,160
But what if it is true?
84
00:05:10,160 --> 00:05:12,480
What if that's what
really happened?
85
00:05:14,640 --> 00:05:18,240
The letter said
the ship sank in 1861.
86
00:05:18,240 --> 00:05:22,960
That's only a few years before
the US took control of Alaska.
87
00:05:22,960 --> 00:05:24,160
For more than a century,
88
00:05:24,160 --> 00:05:27,960
the Russians had
claimed the territory.
89
00:05:27,960 --> 00:05:30,440
There's not a lot
of physical evidence left
90
00:05:30,440 --> 00:05:33,360
to say why they gave it up.
91
00:05:33,360 --> 00:05:37,560
Nobody has ever found
a sailing ship
92
00:05:37,560 --> 00:05:42,360
from the Russian colonial period
in Alaska.
93
00:05:42,360 --> 00:05:45,880
To find something like that
94
00:05:45,880 --> 00:05:48,480
would be spectacular.
95
00:05:51,360 --> 00:05:53,880
I've got to do this.
I just have to do it.
96
00:05:54,120 --> 00:05:56,560
There's no way
I can not do this.
97
00:05:58,800 --> 00:06:02,400
I didn't really know much
about the ship,
98
00:06:02,400 --> 00:06:05,440
so I began investigating that.
99
00:06:05,440 --> 00:06:09,560
And through various sources,
I began to piece together
100
00:06:09,560 --> 00:06:13,600
the story of the Kad'yak.
101
00:06:13,600 --> 00:06:16,160
I discovered it was
a three-masted sailing ship
102
00:06:16,160 --> 00:06:20,720
with copper sheathing
protecting the wooden hull.
103
00:06:20,720 --> 00:06:23,360
The captain,
Illarion Arkhimandritov,
104
00:06:23,360 --> 00:06:28,040
survived and later returned to
Icon Bay to chart the coastline.
105
00:06:28,040 --> 00:06:33,200
This is just a few miles
from Kodiak's main harbor.
106
00:06:33,200 --> 00:06:36,760
And the more I read,
the more fascinated I became.
107
00:06:41,320 --> 00:06:43,880
He took compass bearings
to landmarks
108
00:06:43,880 --> 00:06:46,360
such as capes and islands,
109
00:06:46,360 --> 00:06:49,760
and took one final bearing
to the mast of the ship
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00:06:49,760 --> 00:06:53,880
that was still standing
in the center of the bay.
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00:06:53,880 --> 00:06:57,640
If I could find out where that
last bearing was taken from,
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00:06:57,640 --> 00:07:03,480
I'd be able to pinpoint where
in the bay the mast had been.
113
00:07:03,480 --> 00:07:07,840
Arkhimandritov's notes were...
114
00:07:08,040 --> 00:07:10,680
cryptic, to say the least.
115
00:07:10,680 --> 00:07:11,840
I spent literally years
116
00:07:11,840 --> 00:07:14,080
crisscrossing the bay
in my kayak,
117
00:07:14,080 --> 00:07:18,280
trying to match his compass
bearings to the landscape.
118
00:07:18,280 --> 00:07:22,080
They didn't line up, they didn't
take me where I wanted to go.
119
00:07:22,680 --> 00:07:26,520
I still didn't know exactly
where he stood, and I thought,
120
00:07:26,640 --> 00:07:28,840
I think it's this point here;
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00:07:28,840 --> 00:07:32,520
I'm gonna draw my X
on the chart.
122
00:07:32,520 --> 00:07:34,120
That was what I had to go with.
123
00:07:34,120 --> 00:07:37,200
But it was better than
anything else I had.
124
00:07:44,480 --> 00:07:46,360
Brad called me and he said,
125
00:07:46,360 --> 00:07:50,080
"Hey, Stefan, I think
I've found Kad'yak.
126
00:07:50,080 --> 00:07:52,000
I think I know where it is."
127
00:07:55,720 --> 00:07:58,240
And he said, "Would you like to
come with me diving on the boat
128
00:07:58,440 --> 00:08:01,040
and film it?"
And I said, "Of course."
129
00:08:03,200 --> 00:08:04,840
I jumped on it.
130
00:08:04,840 --> 00:08:06,880
"Great, let's do it.
When can we do it?"
131
00:08:06,880 --> 00:08:08,400
"Uh, three weeks from now."
132
00:08:08,400 --> 00:08:09,480
"Who will we bring?"
133
00:08:09,480 --> 00:08:11,880
"Well, invite all
the divers you know."
134
00:08:14,080 --> 00:08:16,480
You always
want to be first,
135
00:08:16,480 --> 00:08:18,880
see something with your own eyes
136
00:08:18,880 --> 00:08:21,600
and with your camera
for the first time.
137
00:08:21,800 --> 00:08:24,680
That's exciting
for any filmmaker.
138
00:08:30,240 --> 00:08:33,920
One morning
in late July of 2003,
139
00:08:34,280 --> 00:08:38,120
we get together
to go find the Kad'yak.
140
00:08:40,240 --> 00:08:44,920
Okay, so we're
at about 90 feet here.
141
00:08:44,920 --> 00:08:48,680
The first thing I did
when we got to Icon Bay,
142
00:08:48,960 --> 00:08:51,840
we get our gear on,
our tanks, our masks,
143
00:08:51,840 --> 00:08:55,120
and we just roll off
into the water.
144
00:08:57,160 --> 00:09:00,720
On our first dive,
we kind of thought
145
00:09:00,720 --> 00:09:04,160
we'll see a boat sitting
down at the bottom.
146
00:09:06,640 --> 00:09:10,360
We descended
something like 80 feet.
147
00:09:10,360 --> 00:09:12,600
There was a lot of sediment.
148
00:09:12,600 --> 00:09:17,240
I literally could not
see the seafloor.
149
00:09:17,240 --> 00:09:21,480
We got to the end of our dive
and we hadn't seen anything.
150
00:09:21,840 --> 00:09:25,280
So, I was kind of disappointed.
151
00:09:25,280 --> 00:09:27,960
The next team of divers went in,
152
00:09:28,360 --> 00:09:30,080
and they came back up
at the end of their dive,
153
00:09:30,240 --> 00:09:33,720
and they said, we think
we've found something.
154
00:09:33,720 --> 00:09:39,680
And one of the divers had picked
up some little bits of metal.
155
00:09:41,280 --> 00:09:43,080
We knew that Kad'yak
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00:09:43,080 --> 00:09:45,560
had been covered
with copper sheets,
157
00:09:45,880 --> 00:09:49,240
to protect the wood
from the sea worms.
158
00:09:49,240 --> 00:09:52,760
This could be copper
from the bottom of a ship,
159
00:09:52,760 --> 00:09:54,400
or it could be aluminum foil
160
00:09:54,400 --> 00:09:57,000
somebody threw over
with their fried chicken.
161
00:09:57,000 --> 00:09:59,160
We don't know what it is.
162
00:09:59,160 --> 00:10:02,120
But it deserves another look.
163
00:10:02,320 --> 00:10:06,600
So, the next team of divers
went down,
164
00:10:06,600 --> 00:10:08,520
and they came back up
at the end of their dive,
165
00:10:08,520 --> 00:10:12,440
and they said, "Brad, you're
not gonna believe this!
166
00:10:12,440 --> 00:10:14,800
We saw a cannon!"
167
00:10:14,800 --> 00:10:18,120
"A cannon? Really?
Are you sure it wasn't rocks?"
168
00:10:18,120 --> 00:10:22,280
"No, it was a cannon,
we saw a cannon."
169
00:10:22,280 --> 00:10:26,240
Does this mean that there's
a whole ship lying down there?
170
00:10:27,520 --> 00:10:31,160
That diver went back down
with a camera
171
00:10:31,160 --> 00:10:33,320
so we could see what
the diver was seeing.
172
00:10:33,320 --> 00:10:34,640
And we're up on the deck
of the boat
173
00:10:34,760 --> 00:10:36,800
going, "Wow! Look at that!
He found an anchor!
174
00:10:36,800 --> 00:10:38,760
Oh, my gosh! Look at that!"
175
00:10:41,120 --> 00:10:44,480
And then the diver swims
a little bit and turns around,
176
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and here's the cannon,
and we're going, "Oh, my gosh!"
177
00:10:49,160 --> 00:10:50,800
I think we found a shipwreck.
178
00:10:54,120 --> 00:10:56,960
In the water, you can't
allow yourself to get excited,
179
00:10:56,960 --> 00:10:58,200
because it could be dangerous.
180
00:10:58,200 --> 00:11:00,600
But of course, when
you find something
181
00:11:00,600 --> 00:11:02,360
that's hundreds of years old,
182
00:11:02,360 --> 00:11:04,800
your heart starts
beating faster.
183
00:11:08,880 --> 00:11:13,600
I was elated
and ecstatic,
184
00:11:13,600 --> 00:11:16,520
but I was also wary,
185
00:11:16,520 --> 00:11:20,240
because hundreds of ships
were used
186
00:11:20,240 --> 00:11:23,600
in the early centuries
of Alaska.
187
00:11:23,600 --> 00:11:26,000
Ships were commonly lost.
188
00:11:26,000 --> 00:11:29,160
How could we know if
we'd found the Kad'yak?
189
00:11:31,920 --> 00:11:35,200
We didn't have the expertise
to answer the key questions:
190
00:11:35,200 --> 00:11:36,680
When did it sink?
191
00:11:36,680 --> 00:11:39,320
Is it even a Russian ship?
192
00:11:39,320 --> 00:11:42,960
We needed a professional
archaeological survey.
193
00:11:46,800 --> 00:11:49,120
Nine months after we first
laid eyes on the wreck,
194
00:11:49,120 --> 00:11:54,200
we were back with a pro team
from East Carolina University.
195
00:11:54,200 --> 00:11:58,600
This dive was the first time
I had dived at that site
196
00:11:58,600 --> 00:12:02,520
with professional
archaeologists.
197
00:12:02,520 --> 00:12:04,760
Ooh.
198
00:12:04,760 --> 00:12:08,680
Frank Cantelas, he was
the principal investigator.
199
00:12:08,680 --> 00:12:10,720
This comes back to
where these diameters are...
200
00:12:10,720 --> 00:12:13,160
They had made out
a wonderful plan:
201
00:12:13,160 --> 00:12:17,240
what to do and what to look for
and what to bring up.
202
00:12:20,320 --> 00:12:22,560
What they revealed
was incredible.
203
00:12:24,760 --> 00:12:27,440
Systematically,
the archaeologists removed
204
00:12:27,440 --> 00:12:29,880
the sediment around
the artifacts.
205
00:12:32,240 --> 00:12:36,880
What they uncovered was
the wooden remains of a hull.
206
00:12:39,520 --> 00:12:40,560
The first thing that struck me
207
00:12:40,560 --> 00:12:43,400
was the pile of rocks
in the middle.
208
00:12:43,400 --> 00:12:47,720
It stands up about
three feet off the seafloor.
209
00:12:47,720 --> 00:12:50,840
It's not a natural formation.
210
00:12:50,840 --> 00:12:54,040
That's called ballast.
211
00:12:54,240 --> 00:12:56,160
That would keep
the ship weighted
212
00:12:56,160 --> 00:12:59,920
and prevent it
from tipping over.
213
00:12:59,920 --> 00:13:03,480
There's ship timber sticking out
under the ballast pile.
214
00:13:03,480 --> 00:13:06,320
Being able to see the wood
and the ribs there,
215
00:13:06,320 --> 00:13:10,520
all of a sudden,
that ship takes shape.
216
00:13:10,520 --> 00:13:12,560
We think that there
were supposed to be
217
00:13:12,560 --> 00:13:15,560
six cannons on the ship.
218
00:13:15,560 --> 00:13:17,920
If there's anything I wanted
to ever find underwater,
219
00:13:17,920 --> 00:13:19,760
it was a cannon.
220
00:13:19,760 --> 00:13:22,200
It was just amazing.
221
00:13:22,200 --> 00:13:25,360
You wouldn't find that
on a modern wreck.
222
00:13:25,360 --> 00:13:27,840
We found three anchors.
223
00:13:27,840 --> 00:13:31,400
The largest one is probably
the main anchor.
224
00:13:31,400 --> 00:13:35,400
Definitely 19th century anchors.
225
00:13:35,400 --> 00:13:39,360
We found parts of what
obviously appeared to be
226
00:13:39,360 --> 00:13:42,040
a sailing ship.
227
00:13:42,040 --> 00:13:44,360
Could it be the Kad'yak?
228
00:13:49,240 --> 00:13:51,320
As we searched the
wreck for clues to its identity,
229
00:13:51,320 --> 00:13:55,640
we saw there were a lot
of unrecognizable things.
230
00:13:57,360 --> 00:13:59,160
There was at one location
231
00:13:59,160 --> 00:14:04,280
a big pile of what looked like
rusted metal machinery.
232
00:14:04,280 --> 00:14:06,480
Part of it looked like
there was a wheel,
233
00:14:06,480 --> 00:14:08,760
a round part that
might be a pulley.
234
00:14:08,760 --> 00:14:12,520
I thought maybe it was
part of some mechanism
235
00:14:12,520 --> 00:14:16,680
for raising and lowering
cargo into the hold.
236
00:14:18,480 --> 00:14:21,680
I thought, if I could learn more
about Russian trading activity
237
00:14:21,680 --> 00:14:26,320
in Kodiak, maybe it could
help me identify the ship.
238
00:14:29,200 --> 00:14:32,600
Russians came to Alaska
to hunt sea otters
239
00:14:32,600 --> 00:14:35,640
and other fur-bearing animals.
240
00:14:35,640 --> 00:14:38,960
By 1861, they'd been running
the operation out of Kodiak
241
00:14:38,960 --> 00:14:41,400
for nearly 70 years.
242
00:14:43,320 --> 00:14:45,760
But there were a lot of
references to a set of docks
243
00:14:45,760 --> 00:14:46,920
on a tiny little island
244
00:14:46,920 --> 00:14:51,520
just across from
Kodiak's main harbor.
245
00:14:51,520 --> 00:14:55,200
What were they up to over there?
246
00:14:55,200 --> 00:14:57,920
I went there to visit,
247
00:14:57,920 --> 00:15:01,080
and walked through the woods.
248
00:15:01,080 --> 00:15:04,840
On Woody Island, there are
a couple of small lakes.
249
00:15:05,320 --> 00:15:07,440
I saw that there was
physical evidence
250
00:15:07,440 --> 00:15:11,080
that this place had been
manipulated by humans
251
00:15:11,080 --> 00:15:14,920
over 100 years ago
for a specific purpose.
252
00:15:16,760 --> 00:15:20,200
There was a trench about
maybe six feet across
253
00:15:20,200 --> 00:15:22,280
and about four feet deep,
254
00:15:22,280 --> 00:15:25,160
that goes straight down
through the woods.
255
00:15:27,480 --> 00:15:28,880
These earthworks
didn't look like
256
00:15:28,880 --> 00:15:32,480
they had anything to do
with the fur trade.
257
00:15:32,480 --> 00:15:35,200
So what was this trench for?
258
00:15:37,320 --> 00:15:41,280
Looking at the position of
the lakes, it became obvious.
259
00:15:43,240 --> 00:15:47,120
This lake would have been
the perfect place to make ice.
260
00:15:47,120 --> 00:15:48,520
Which was good for the Russians,
261
00:15:48,520 --> 00:15:52,760
because there was
a new market opening up.
262
00:15:52,760 --> 00:15:58,320
In 1849, the San Francisco
Gold Rush happened.
263
00:15:58,320 --> 00:16:00,400
San Francisco became
a boomtown,
264
00:16:00,400 --> 00:16:04,360
and they needed things
that cities need.
265
00:16:04,360 --> 00:16:07,880
They needed
refrigeration for food.
266
00:16:10,400 --> 00:16:12,680
Well, the Russians,
sitting up in Alaska,
267
00:16:12,680 --> 00:16:15,560
saw this as an opportunity.
268
00:16:17,440 --> 00:16:20,800
During the winter, they drew
horse-drawn saws along the ice
269
00:16:20,800 --> 00:16:24,320
to cut it into blocks
to sell to San Francisco.
270
00:16:33,080 --> 00:16:36,960
The Russians probably dug this
trench and lined it with wood,
271
00:16:36,960 --> 00:16:40,280
so that they could easily
slide ice from here
272
00:16:40,280 --> 00:16:43,640
down to the storehouses,
before loading on the ship.
273
00:16:46,400 --> 00:16:48,240
Those ice blocks
would have to be huge
274
00:16:48,440 --> 00:16:52,200
to last the journey
to San Francisco.
275
00:16:52,200 --> 00:16:56,480
Lifting them aboard would have
required specialized equipment.
276
00:16:56,480 --> 00:16:58,640
This chunk of rusted metal
down there
277
00:16:58,800 --> 00:17:01,480
might actually be
part of that system,
278
00:17:01,480 --> 00:17:04,600
part of that ice machinery.
279
00:17:04,600 --> 00:17:07,000
Buried in documents
on the Russian ice trade
280
00:17:07,000 --> 00:17:09,520
was some fascinating detail.
281
00:17:11,400 --> 00:17:14,760
The Kad'yak had
an ice elevator on board,
282
00:17:14,760 --> 00:17:16,800
a piece of machinery
that was built
283
00:17:16,800 --> 00:17:22,680
to help lower and raise ice
into and out of the hold.
284
00:17:22,680 --> 00:17:24,440
I figured this metal
on the seafloor
285
00:17:24,440 --> 00:17:26,320
must be related to that device,
286
00:17:26,320 --> 00:17:29,520
but it was too corroded
to say for sure.
287
00:17:29,520 --> 00:17:32,880
We needed more evidence
to say this was the Kad'yak.
288
00:17:38,720 --> 00:17:40,680
A few days after
the archaeologists arrived,
289
00:17:40,680 --> 00:17:42,880
I was diving with
Frank Cantelas,
290
00:17:42,880 --> 00:17:46,320
and we saw this object
embedded in the seafloor
291
00:17:46,320 --> 00:17:51,000
that was about a foot long
and sort of round.
292
00:17:52,440 --> 00:17:54,840
And Frank indicated
to just leave it,
293
00:17:54,840 --> 00:17:58,440
and maybe we'll come back
for it later.
294
00:18:03,120 --> 00:18:06,120
Several days later,
we'd all finished diving,
295
00:18:06,120 --> 00:18:09,360
and Frank said, "Oh, by the way,
296
00:18:09,360 --> 00:18:13,280
I had a look at that
interesting object today,
297
00:18:13,280 --> 00:18:15,840
and it's got writing on it."
298
00:18:15,840 --> 00:18:19,440
And my mouth just about
hit the floor.
299
00:18:19,440 --> 00:18:21,920
And I was like, "Really?
300
00:18:21,920 --> 00:18:24,720
We've got to go back
and get it."
301
00:18:24,720 --> 00:18:27,800
They brought up
this item to the boat.
302
00:18:27,800 --> 00:18:30,400
It was partly metal,
partly wood,
303
00:18:30,400 --> 00:18:33,720
with the inscriptions on it.
304
00:18:33,720 --> 00:18:37,200
Everybody gathered
around that piece,
305
00:18:37,200 --> 00:18:40,600
and somebody was cleaning off
the top of it.
306
00:18:40,600 --> 00:18:43,560
Sure enough, it's got
Cyrillic writing on it.
307
00:18:43,560 --> 00:18:45,680
And I can read Cyrillic letters.
308
00:18:45,680 --> 00:18:51,920
It says "K, O,"
the Cyrillic delta, "deh."
309
00:18:51,920 --> 00:18:53,800
Jenya Anitchenko,
the Russian graduate student,
310
00:18:53,800 --> 00:18:56,840
looked at that,
and she says, "That's it."
311
00:18:56,840 --> 00:18:58,960
It says "Kad'yak."
312
00:18:58,960 --> 00:19:01,440
This is the name of the ship.
313
00:19:01,440 --> 00:19:04,080
Everybody
kind of went crazy.
314
00:19:04,080 --> 00:19:06,440
To find an object
with the name of the ship
315
00:19:06,440 --> 00:19:08,320
that you're studying
written on it
316
00:19:08,320 --> 00:19:11,240
is the holy grail
of marine archaeology,
317
00:19:11,240 --> 00:19:13,640
and we had found it.
318
00:19:13,640 --> 00:19:15,040
What is it?
319
00:19:15,040 --> 00:19:19,200
It's the hub of
the ship's wheel.
320
00:19:19,200 --> 00:19:23,360
Not in our wildest dreams
could we have predicted that.
321
00:19:23,360 --> 00:19:24,360
Here it is.
322
00:19:24,360 --> 00:19:26,560
We found the Kad'yak.
323
00:19:26,560 --> 00:19:29,040
When you know that
it's the correct boat,
324
00:19:29,040 --> 00:19:32,680
that's when you can open
the bottle of champagne
325
00:19:32,680 --> 00:19:35,000
and celebrate.
326
00:19:35,000 --> 00:19:38,360
We'd found the only
Russian-era sailing ship
327
00:19:38,360 --> 00:19:41,160
ever discovered
in Alaskan waters.
328
00:19:41,160 --> 00:19:43,560
But the wreck was
eight miles from the reef
329
00:19:43,560 --> 00:19:46,280
that tore its hull open.
330
00:19:46,280 --> 00:19:50,000
How had the ship stayed afloat
without a crew
331
00:19:50,000 --> 00:19:53,240
for three whole days
before it finally sank?
332
00:19:56,960 --> 00:19:59,600
It turns out that
the Russian captain survived
333
00:19:59,600 --> 00:20:01,720
and later described
the ship's sinking
334
00:20:01,720 --> 00:20:04,160
in letters to his superiors.
335
00:20:05,880 --> 00:20:09,680
On the morning
of March 30, 1860,
336
00:20:09,680 --> 00:20:12,160
Captain Illarion Arkhimandritov
had his ship loaded,
337
00:20:12,160 --> 00:20:15,280
and then he set sail.
338
00:20:15,280 --> 00:20:20,360
The ship's going along well,
the sails are all set.
339
00:20:20,360 --> 00:20:23,520
And suddenly there's crunching
and a shrieking
340
00:20:23,520 --> 00:20:25,200
and a snapping of boards.
341
00:20:26,800 --> 00:20:29,120
The ship was probably
tearing its bottom out
342
00:20:29,120 --> 00:20:32,480
across the rock reef
that it had hit.
343
00:20:32,480 --> 00:20:36,720
There was nothing they could do;
the damage was too great.
344
00:20:36,720 --> 00:20:40,200
They had to abandon the ship.
345
00:20:40,200 --> 00:20:43,360
But it didn't sink.
346
00:20:43,360 --> 00:20:46,160
It stayed afloat.
347
00:20:46,160 --> 00:20:48,440
That would make sense if
the crew had just loaded up
348
00:20:48,440 --> 00:20:51,600
with cargo at Woody Island,
349
00:20:51,600 --> 00:20:57,480
because even though the ship
had a big hole in the bottom,
350
00:20:57,480 --> 00:20:59,520
it was full of ice.
351
00:20:59,520 --> 00:21:04,120
So, it was now
a wooden-hulled iceberg.
352
00:21:06,440 --> 00:21:09,800
It kept the ship afloat
for three days,
353
00:21:09,800 --> 00:21:12,560
drifting without
captain or crew.
354
00:21:14,560 --> 00:21:19,360
The Kad'yak finally came to rest
355
00:21:19,360 --> 00:21:22,120
with the top of the mast
sticking out of the water,
356
00:21:22,120 --> 00:21:25,680
forming the shape of
the Russian Orthodox cross.
357
00:21:29,880 --> 00:21:33,920
The ship had settled
on top of the reef,
358
00:21:33,920 --> 00:21:38,920
so Arkhimandritov could still
see the mast three months later.
359
00:21:38,920 --> 00:21:41,280
At some point,
probably during the winter,
360
00:21:41,280 --> 00:21:44,040
storms had broken up the ship.
361
00:21:44,040 --> 00:21:48,680
The bow had fallen off
to the west,
362
00:21:48,680 --> 00:21:53,320
and on the other side of the
reef was the rest of the ship.
363
00:21:53,320 --> 00:21:55,760
And that is how we found it.
364
00:22:04,640 --> 00:22:10,360
Finding the Kad'yak proves
that these tales and records
365
00:22:10,360 --> 00:22:14,560
about the ice business,
which are kind of obscure,
366
00:22:14,560 --> 00:22:16,480
that they really were true,
367
00:22:16,480 --> 00:22:19,320
and that it really did
contribute significantly
368
00:22:19,320 --> 00:22:22,880
to the development of Alaska.
369
00:22:22,880 --> 00:22:26,840
It brings it all back
and makes it real,
370
00:22:26,840 --> 00:22:30,640
and it elevates it
from mystery to history.
371
00:22:35,000 --> 00:22:38,840
Not long after,
artificial ice became common,
372
00:22:38,840 --> 00:22:42,520
and there were not enough
fur-bearing animals
373
00:22:42,520 --> 00:22:47,320
left in Alaska to support
the Russian colony.
374
00:22:47,320 --> 00:22:51,560
For the Russians, Alaska had
become a worthless wasteland.
375
00:22:51,560 --> 00:22:55,320
And Russia, at that point,
began to talk about
376
00:22:55,320 --> 00:22:59,920
selling Russian America
to the United States.
377
00:23:01,480 --> 00:23:04,680
In 1867, just six years
after the Kad'yak sank,
378
00:23:04,680 --> 00:23:07,280
the deal was done.
379
00:23:07,280 --> 00:23:09,240
The US paid just
two cents an acre
380
00:23:09,240 --> 00:23:13,040
for territory they still saw
as potentially valuable.
381
00:23:13,040 --> 00:23:16,640
And American sailors saw
untapped resources offshore.
382
00:23:19,520 --> 00:23:23,240
They sent hundreds
of ships in pursuit.
383
00:23:23,240 --> 00:23:26,920
Unfortunately, many never
made it back out.
384
00:23:41,440 --> 00:23:44,520
I'm a retired
airline pilot who used to fly
385
00:23:44,520 --> 00:23:48,200
back and forth on America's
busiest routes every day.
386
00:23:48,200 --> 00:23:50,640
But I love to explore.
387
00:23:54,480 --> 00:23:56,600
Nowadays I use my license
to fly over
388
00:23:56,600 --> 00:24:00,840
remote parts of
the North American wilderness.
389
00:24:00,840 --> 00:24:04,240
I was always attracted to
the north coast of Alaska,
390
00:24:04,240 --> 00:24:08,160
because of its incredible
history of human endurance.
391
00:24:08,160 --> 00:24:10,320
I've been reading about
Arctic exploration
392
00:24:10,320 --> 00:24:14,720
for probably 50 years now,
ever since I was very young.
393
00:24:14,720 --> 00:24:16,960
The story of the whalers
and the voyages
394
00:24:16,960 --> 00:24:20,200
that they did were
actually very remarkable.
395
00:24:20,200 --> 00:24:22,880
Some lasted as long
as five years,
396
00:24:22,880 --> 00:24:26,040
and these captains and sailors
were incredibly capable.
397
00:24:26,040 --> 00:24:31,720
They faced perils of weather
and lack of provisions.
398
00:24:34,360 --> 00:24:37,560
In the mid-1800s, whale oil
lubricated the machines
399
00:24:37,560 --> 00:24:39,200
of the Industrial Revolution,
400
00:24:39,200 --> 00:24:42,120
so it was a very
valuable commodity.
401
00:24:45,080 --> 00:24:46,960
But when things
went wrong in Alaska,
402
00:24:46,960 --> 00:24:49,440
they could be catastrophic.
403
00:24:51,880 --> 00:24:55,400
I ran across the story
of the 1871 whaling disaster
404
00:24:55,400 --> 00:25:00,120
very early on, and it really
captured my imagination.
405
00:25:01,480 --> 00:25:04,880
This is the logbook
of Captain Valentine Lewis
406
00:25:04,880 --> 00:25:08,200
of the whaling ship
the Thomas Dickerson,
407
00:25:08,200 --> 00:25:11,960
and on Thursday the 14th
of September of 1871,
408
00:25:11,960 --> 00:25:14,040
he writes this:
409
00:25:14,040 --> 00:25:17,640
"With light winds from
the south, good weather,
410
00:25:17,640 --> 00:25:20,440
and the ship still ice-bound,
411
00:25:20,440 --> 00:25:23,000
may God please send us
a northeast wind
412
00:25:23,000 --> 00:25:25,280
or all will be lost."
413
00:25:25,280 --> 00:25:29,160
After that, the logbook ends.
414
00:25:29,160 --> 00:25:32,800
He's saying that his ship
is stuck in an ice field.
415
00:25:32,800 --> 00:25:34,440
They need help.
416
00:25:34,440 --> 00:25:36,520
Then he goes quiet.
417
00:25:38,080 --> 00:25:40,360
What is known is that a fleet
of more than 30 ships
418
00:25:40,360 --> 00:25:42,880
had been hunting whales
off the north coast of Alaska
419
00:25:42,880 --> 00:25:47,080
in the early fall,
late in the season.
420
00:25:47,080 --> 00:25:49,200
This area was not
very well-known,
421
00:25:49,200 --> 00:25:51,920
and they were actually
pushing the boundaries
422
00:25:51,920 --> 00:25:56,360
of what was capable with
their ships of the time.
423
00:25:59,680 --> 00:26:01,360
Sea ice started forming
and trapped them
424
00:26:01,360 --> 00:26:05,960
before they could escape to
the warmer waters in the south.
425
00:26:05,960 --> 00:26:08,640
Almost all those vessels
went down.
426
00:26:10,000 --> 00:26:12,800
So, out of the 32 ships
that were lost,
427
00:26:12,800 --> 00:26:16,240
only one of 'em was salvaged.
428
00:26:16,240 --> 00:26:19,320
You'd think more than 100 years
of being crushed by the sea ice
429
00:26:19,320 --> 00:26:21,480
would have totally
destroyed 'em,
430
00:26:21,480 --> 00:26:24,040
but I thought, could
the remains of those ships
431
00:26:24,040 --> 00:26:25,520
still be out there?
432
00:26:30,040 --> 00:26:32,560
For the locals,
the 1871 whaling disaster
433
00:26:32,560 --> 00:26:35,080
must have been like
a hardware store
434
00:26:35,080 --> 00:26:38,040
washing up along the beach.
435
00:26:39,560 --> 00:26:42,440
Talking to the residents
on Alaska's north coast,
436
00:26:42,440 --> 00:26:44,240
I discovered they'd
been salvaging debris
437
00:26:44,240 --> 00:26:47,040
from the wrecks for generations.
438
00:26:47,040 --> 00:26:50,800
They recycled the components
of these ships.
439
00:26:50,800 --> 00:26:52,280
I knew the ships
must have been lost
440
00:26:52,280 --> 00:26:56,120
close to where this debris
had come ashore.
441
00:26:56,120 --> 00:27:00,360
Among the items we found on
the beach was a flensing tool.
442
00:27:00,360 --> 00:27:03,640
And a flensing tool
is a broad blade
443
00:27:03,640 --> 00:27:08,640
that is used to remove
the blubber from the whale
444
00:27:08,640 --> 00:27:12,600
before it is boiled down
for oil.
445
00:27:14,120 --> 00:27:15,920
This tool had been
found on a beach
446
00:27:15,920 --> 00:27:20,320
just west of Point Franklin
on Alaska's north coast.
447
00:27:23,600 --> 00:27:26,640
So I got my team together,
and that's where we headed.
448
00:27:30,800 --> 00:27:35,720
We had a helicopter that brought
us directly to the campsite.
449
00:27:35,720 --> 00:27:39,160
When they dropped us off
at the beach,
450
00:27:39,160 --> 00:27:42,960
the silence of the tundra
kind of descended upon us.
451
00:27:46,400 --> 00:27:50,080
In winter, ice covers up
the sea and the shore.
452
00:27:50,080 --> 00:27:53,800
But in the summer, it melts
back to reveal the beach.
453
00:27:55,640 --> 00:27:58,680
In August, along the shoreline,
454
00:27:58,680 --> 00:28:02,240
when the wind is calm,
it's absolutely beautiful.
455
00:28:02,240 --> 00:28:06,960
We enjoyed 24-hour daylight,
456
00:28:06,960 --> 00:28:10,840
but we also had
an awful lot of down days
457
00:28:10,840 --> 00:28:12,880
where the winds were howling.
458
00:28:12,880 --> 00:28:16,520
So we started looking
upon the shoreline.
459
00:28:17,920 --> 00:28:21,520
There is quite a bit
of driftwood up there,
460
00:28:21,520 --> 00:28:25,320
but we started noticing in
and amongst all this driftwood
461
00:28:25,320 --> 00:28:28,440
were ships' timbers.
462
00:28:28,440 --> 00:28:30,840
Amongst all the artifacts
we found on the beach
463
00:28:30,840 --> 00:28:37,760
were portions of the hulls
that are virtually intact.
464
00:28:37,760 --> 00:28:39,000
And it's impressive.
465
00:28:39,000 --> 00:28:41,320
There's an awful lot of it.
466
00:28:42,760 --> 00:28:46,800
In theory, this wreckage could
have been from any wooden ship.
467
00:28:46,800 --> 00:28:51,200
But then we began to find
other intriguing items.
468
00:28:51,200 --> 00:28:55,280
All along the beach, there were
portions of sheet copper,
469
00:28:55,280 --> 00:28:58,480
and this copper was used
to cover the hull,
470
00:28:58,480 --> 00:29:01,600
to protect the wood
from the teredo worm.
471
00:29:01,600 --> 00:29:05,640
One of these copper sheets still
had the maker's mark on it.
472
00:29:05,640 --> 00:29:08,320
The maker's mark said "A.B."
473
00:29:08,320 --> 00:29:15,360
and was able to trace that to
a copper company in Connecticut,
474
00:29:15,360 --> 00:29:17,120
the heart of
American shipbuilding
475
00:29:17,120 --> 00:29:20,440
and the whaling industry
at the time.
476
00:29:23,280 --> 00:29:25,360
We knew we were
on the right track,
477
00:29:25,360 --> 00:29:30,440
but we had no proof that these
ships were from the 1871 fleet.
478
00:29:30,440 --> 00:29:34,080
We needed to search
for wreckage offshore.
479
00:29:35,600 --> 00:29:37,320
We used a small inflatable boat,
480
00:29:37,320 --> 00:29:41,240
and the best survey instruments
I could mount on that vessel.
481
00:29:41,240 --> 00:29:45,840
But in the area we searched,
we couldn't find anything.
482
00:29:45,840 --> 00:29:48,760
Out of a 14-foot
inflatable boat,
483
00:29:48,760 --> 00:29:52,360
we were forced to use
a very compact sonar.
484
00:29:52,360 --> 00:29:55,800
We, you know, could have
had better equipment,
485
00:29:55,800 --> 00:29:57,880
a more stable vessel.
486
00:30:00,520 --> 00:30:02,920
This area deserved an expedition
487
00:30:02,920 --> 00:30:04,800
with more sophisticated
equipment,
488
00:30:04,800 --> 00:30:09,840
and in 2015, that's what NOAA
brought to the table.
489
00:30:16,160 --> 00:30:18,360
What I loved about the
stories of the Alaska shipwrecks
490
00:30:18,360 --> 00:30:22,360
is that it was so closely tied
to areas where I'd grown up.
491
00:30:25,960 --> 00:30:28,280
The story of the lost
whaling fleet of 1871
492
00:30:28,280 --> 00:30:31,840
is perhaps the most
incredible to me.
493
00:30:31,840 --> 00:30:36,600
32 ships lost, with more than
1,000 people aboard.
494
00:30:36,600 --> 00:30:38,360
Not only crew,
495
00:30:38,360 --> 00:30:42,240
but also some of the captains'
wives and children.
496
00:30:42,240 --> 00:30:46,280
Amazingly, everyone escaped.
497
00:30:46,480 --> 00:30:51,720
That nobody died is
practically miraculous.
498
00:30:51,720 --> 00:30:54,000
1,200-odd people.
499
00:30:54,320 --> 00:30:56,000
How do you do that?
500
00:30:56,000 --> 00:30:57,640
We would never know the answer
501
00:30:57,640 --> 00:30:59,840
unless we found
wreckage offshore
502
00:30:59,840 --> 00:31:02,640
where they originally sank.
503
00:31:02,640 --> 00:31:04,680
The fear was that maybe that ice
504
00:31:04,680 --> 00:31:08,920
had literally just
chewed up those ships
505
00:31:08,920 --> 00:31:11,600
and left nothing.
506
00:31:11,600 --> 00:31:15,320
But where there's smoke,
there's fire.
507
00:31:15,320 --> 00:31:16,800
What Randy was showing us
508
00:31:17,120 --> 00:31:19,600
was that ships had not
completely broken apart
509
00:31:19,800 --> 00:31:21,680
and disappeared
into matchsticks.
510
00:31:22,280 --> 00:31:25,760
There were big chunks of these
ships up on the beaches,
511
00:31:25,760 --> 00:31:28,960
and those chunks of ships
had survived
512
00:31:28,960 --> 00:31:34,480
over a century and a half
of being moved by ice.
513
00:31:34,480 --> 00:31:38,200
That was an important clue.
514
00:31:38,200 --> 00:31:41,480
The question in our minds was,
could we find these ships
515
00:31:41,480 --> 00:31:45,080
and figure out what had happened
after they'd been abandoned?
516
00:31:48,720 --> 00:31:52,320
Each winter, as the
Arctic freezes, icebergs form
517
00:31:52,320 --> 00:31:57,560
and sea ice pushes right up
to the north Alaskan coast.
518
00:31:57,560 --> 00:32:01,200
This is what trapped
the whaling fleet of 1871
519
00:32:01,200 --> 00:32:04,520
in the area we now call
Alaska's North Slope,
520
00:32:04,520 --> 00:32:08,960
before they could reach
warmer southern waters.
521
00:32:08,960 --> 00:32:10,520
There was a big question:
522
00:32:10,520 --> 00:32:11,920
Would that grinding sea ice
523
00:32:11,920 --> 00:32:15,720
have left anything intact
on the seabed?
524
00:32:15,720 --> 00:32:18,560
This chart, with
soundings and fathoms,
525
00:32:18,560 --> 00:32:20,800
would suggest,
if you didn't know better,
526
00:32:20,800 --> 00:32:23,440
that this area's charted and
we know what's on the bottom.
527
00:32:23,680 --> 00:32:26,400
But the reality is,
is that there's whole areas
528
00:32:26,400 --> 00:32:29,400
that are blank
and they're uncharted.
529
00:32:29,680 --> 00:32:32,840
You've got gaps here and here,
and gaps in here.
530
00:32:32,840 --> 00:32:34,080
There's no data here.
531
00:32:34,080 --> 00:32:35,720
This is blank.
532
00:32:36,280 --> 00:32:39,080
To stand any chance
of finding remains,
533
00:32:39,080 --> 00:32:44,200
we had to plan for total data
capture to map the seabed.
534
00:32:49,560 --> 00:32:54,840
I had known about this,
this story for decades.
535
00:32:59,320 --> 00:33:03,520
{\an8}The disaster of 1871
was one of the things
536
00:33:03,520 --> 00:33:05,880
that basically ended
Yankee whaling
537
00:33:05,880 --> 00:33:08,440
in the early 20th century,
538
00:33:08,640 --> 00:33:11,880
because it was such
a devastating loss.
539
00:33:11,880 --> 00:33:17,040
What was still there,
if anything was still there?
540
00:33:17,040 --> 00:33:20,640
It was a question that
needed to be answered.
541
00:33:20,640 --> 00:33:23,320
I was the mission coordinator.
542
00:33:23,320 --> 00:33:27,880
{\an8}Once we got there,
it was deeply personal.
543
00:33:35,280 --> 00:33:39,440
{\an8}We were going out, we were going
to essentially develop a map
544
00:33:39,440 --> 00:33:44,800
{\an8}of the seabed between
Point Franklin and Wainwright.
545
00:33:50,120 --> 00:33:52,440
I remember sitting
on the afterdeck
546
00:33:52,440 --> 00:33:55,320
of the vessel we were on
and thinking to myself,
547
00:33:55,320 --> 00:34:00,000
you know, this is the same place
where the whalers tucked in.
548
00:34:00,000 --> 00:34:03,320
They were here,
and now we're here.
549
00:34:03,320 --> 00:34:08,080
And that was a very powerful
experience for me.
550
00:34:08,080 --> 00:34:13,320
One of the first things
we did was to scan using sonar.
551
00:34:13,320 --> 00:34:16,680
With sonar, you're basically
bouncing sound waves
552
00:34:16,680 --> 00:34:19,480
off the seabed
and building a picture
553
00:34:19,480 --> 00:34:21,920
from the returning signal.
554
00:34:23,560 --> 00:34:25,000
What you're looking
for are straight lines,
555
00:34:25,000 --> 00:34:28,040
which are rare in nature.
556
00:34:28,040 --> 00:34:31,160
What's it look like
on the screen?
557
00:34:31,160 --> 00:34:33,240
Suddenly you see
these straight lines
558
00:34:33,240 --> 00:34:37,040
and then more horizontal
figures, blocks,
559
00:34:37,040 --> 00:34:40,480
and it's like, that,
that looks interesting,
560
00:34:40,480 --> 00:34:43,440
that could be a piece
of a shipwreck.
561
00:34:45,120 --> 00:34:47,000
The sonar picked up
six features
562
00:34:47,000 --> 00:34:49,640
that appeared to be manmade.
563
00:34:51,720 --> 00:34:54,000
But the sonar can be
a bit misleading.
564
00:34:54,200 --> 00:34:56,520
Is it a provocatively shaped
group of rocks,
565
00:34:56,800 --> 00:34:58,600
or is that the outline
of a hull?
566
00:34:58,600 --> 00:35:02,440
That's when you need
to put eyes on it.
567
00:35:02,440 --> 00:35:04,640
Diving was not an option.
568
00:35:04,640 --> 00:35:07,520
You're literally in water
that's just above freezing.
569
00:35:07,520 --> 00:35:11,440
You get into that water
and it hurts.
570
00:35:14,960 --> 00:35:17,880
To avoid diving,
we created a drop camera system
571
00:35:17,880 --> 00:35:20,400
that could be lowered
to the seabed.
572
00:35:23,440 --> 00:35:25,600
We started to drag
the drop camera around,
573
00:35:25,600 --> 00:35:29,200
try to get a better view
of what was there.
574
00:35:29,200 --> 00:35:31,440
See that?
575
00:35:31,680 --> 00:35:34,800
What is that?
576
00:35:34,800 --> 00:35:36,960
Suddenly,
this structure appeared.
577
00:35:36,960 --> 00:35:40,800
It was a mass of heavy wood.
578
00:35:40,800 --> 00:35:42,880
You could see sections
of the hull that were there,
579
00:35:42,880 --> 00:35:45,400
indicating some of that
structure had survived.
580
00:35:45,400 --> 00:35:48,800
You had the broken ends
of the ribs, or the frames,
581
00:35:48,800 --> 00:35:50,920
that had been gnawed by the ice.
582
00:35:50,920 --> 00:35:53,280
But it's covered
in marine growth.
583
00:35:53,280 --> 00:35:55,520
You had some
stone ballast as well
584
00:35:55,520 --> 00:35:58,720
that helped stabilize that ship
when it was afloat.
585
00:35:58,720 --> 00:36:03,440
You go, okay,
we've got a shipwreck.
586
00:36:03,440 --> 00:36:05,800
Pieces of copper sheathing
were visible on sections
587
00:36:05,800 --> 00:36:09,840
of planking next to
the 70-foot-long hull.
588
00:36:09,840 --> 00:36:12,600
It was clear evidence that
what we were looking at
589
00:36:12,600 --> 00:36:18,080
was a vessel that had at least
been built in the 19th century.
590
00:36:18,080 --> 00:36:20,760
We now knew a shipwreck
could survive underwater
591
00:36:20,760 --> 00:36:22,840
on the north Alaskan coast.
592
00:36:23,160 --> 00:36:26,760
But were these the remains
of a whaling ship?
593
00:36:30,040 --> 00:36:32,720
{\an8}We needed more than
just an empty hull,
594
00:36:32,720 --> 00:36:34,240
{\an8}so we turned our attention
595
00:36:34,240 --> 00:36:37,560
{\an8}to another of the most promising
of the six sites,
596
00:36:37,760 --> 00:36:41,360
10 miles up the coast.
597
00:36:41,360 --> 00:36:47,240
What we saw on the bottom
were basically large timbers
598
00:36:47,240 --> 00:36:49,640
that were ribs of a vessel.
599
00:36:49,640 --> 00:36:54,280
And then we really saw
the cool stuff.
600
00:36:54,280 --> 00:36:55,680
You're seeing
clear structure
601
00:36:55,680 --> 00:36:58,160
that had survived
being in the ice,
602
00:36:58,160 --> 00:37:03,800
and with that, artifacts
scattered around it.
603
00:37:03,800 --> 00:37:06,320
What this wreck showed us
that the other didn't
604
00:37:06,320 --> 00:37:10,240
was the actual ship's hardware.
605
00:37:10,240 --> 00:37:13,640
You began to see things
like an anchor.
606
00:37:13,640 --> 00:37:16,360
And then another feature
which shows up,
607
00:37:16,360 --> 00:37:21,480
which is a metal bar, two bars,
that come around into a loop.
608
00:37:21,480 --> 00:37:23,440
Right beside there was
a piece of iron
609
00:37:23,440 --> 00:37:27,000
shaped like a corner bracket,
a couple of feet long.
610
00:37:27,000 --> 00:37:31,320
The question was, did we have
enough in those wrecks
611
00:37:31,320 --> 00:37:33,720
to prove that these
were the remains
612
00:37:33,720 --> 00:37:38,720
of the largest wrecking event in
the history of American whaling?
613
00:37:42,000 --> 00:37:43,720
To try to make sense
of what we were seeing
614
00:37:43,720 --> 00:37:46,400
on the seabed,
we decided to study
615
00:37:46,400 --> 00:37:52,880
the last 19th century
whaling ship still in existence.
616
00:37:52,880 --> 00:37:54,880
This loop of iron
is very similar
617
00:37:54,880 --> 00:37:58,320
to what we saw in that wreckage.
618
00:37:58,320 --> 00:37:59,800
They're called
chain plates.
619
00:37:59,800 --> 00:38:04,080
This is all part of the standing
rigging that supports the mast.
620
00:38:04,080 --> 00:38:06,000
This is something that speaks
directly to the fact
621
00:38:06,000 --> 00:38:11,320
that we've got a 19th century
ship lying in pieces.
622
00:38:11,320 --> 00:38:14,400
That metal bar with the loop
was a clear indicator
623
00:38:14,400 --> 00:38:17,280
that our wrecks were
of the right period.
624
00:38:19,040 --> 00:38:24,120
But did any of these artifacts
prove that these were whalers?
625
00:38:24,120 --> 00:38:25,280
This is a smoking gun.
626
00:38:25,280 --> 00:38:27,000
Oh, absolutely.
627
00:38:27,000 --> 00:38:29,760
I mean, they would
only be on vessels
628
00:38:29,760 --> 00:38:32,200
that had tryworks installations.
629
00:38:32,200 --> 00:38:33,760
Yeah.
630
00:38:33,760 --> 00:38:36,520
That explained the
bracket-shaped piece of iron
631
00:38:36,520 --> 00:38:39,760
that we found in our survey.
632
00:38:39,760 --> 00:38:44,360
The tryworks is the big furnace
with its huge pots
633
00:38:44,360 --> 00:38:49,000
for taking whale fat
and making it whale oil.
634
00:38:49,000 --> 00:38:53,440
They were held in place with
iron brackets called knees.
635
00:38:55,240 --> 00:39:00,240
That's bolted in place, and
that's bolted down to the deck.
636
00:39:00,240 --> 00:39:02,800
They go out to sea, they get
onto the whaling grounds.
637
00:39:02,800 --> 00:39:05,920
Out come the big pots,
out come the bricks.
638
00:39:05,920 --> 00:39:09,040
They lay all the bricks,
they make this big tryworks,
639
00:39:09,040 --> 00:39:12,600
and then they start whaling.
640
00:39:12,600 --> 00:39:16,520
Seeing the chain plates and
the iron knees at Mystic Seaport
641
00:39:16,520 --> 00:39:20,360
confirmed we had
19th century vessels,
642
00:39:20,360 --> 00:39:23,160
and we had a 19th century vessel
643
00:39:23,160 --> 00:39:27,840
that clearly had been
used as a whaler.
644
00:39:27,840 --> 00:39:30,280
With this evidence,
and these clues,
645
00:39:30,280 --> 00:39:34,080
the wrecks, the artifacts that
Randy had found on the beach,
646
00:39:34,080 --> 00:39:39,160
everything was consistent with
19th century whaling vessels.
647
00:39:39,160 --> 00:39:43,040
There's no doubt in my mind
that we had finally found
648
00:39:43,040 --> 00:39:46,760
the submerged remains
of the greatest disaster
649
00:39:46,760 --> 00:39:49,800
in the history
of American whaling.
650
00:39:49,800 --> 00:39:51,920
The common sense
assumption would be
651
00:39:51,920 --> 00:39:55,560
that the Arctic eats ships
and leaves very little.
652
00:39:55,560 --> 00:39:58,080
No.
653
00:39:58,080 --> 00:39:59,440
Things have been preserved
654
00:39:59,440 --> 00:40:03,160
despite the violence
of the disaster
655
00:40:03,160 --> 00:40:06,760
and the intervening
century and a half
656
00:40:06,760 --> 00:40:09,960
of ongoing storms and ice.
657
00:40:09,960 --> 00:40:13,280
Things survive
just as powerfully
658
00:40:13,280 --> 00:40:15,960
as human stories survive.
659
00:40:21,160 --> 00:40:25,760
The 1871 whaling disaster was
a major blow to the industry.
660
00:40:30,320 --> 00:40:32,160
The loss made news
around the world,
661
00:40:32,160 --> 00:40:35,520
but we still had
one final question:
662
00:40:35,520 --> 00:40:39,000
How did everyone
actually escape?
663
00:40:39,000 --> 00:40:41,160
The ice was in,
and it wasn't going anywhere.
664
00:40:41,160 --> 00:40:44,040
Their ships were caught.
665
00:40:44,040 --> 00:40:47,120
The reports say that the crews
managed to make their way
666
00:40:47,120 --> 00:40:53,800
to another group of
whaling ships 90 miles away.
667
00:40:53,800 --> 00:40:56,560
In the ice-locked Arctic
in poor weather,
668
00:40:56,560 --> 00:41:00,280
that's a very hazardous trek.
669
00:41:00,280 --> 00:41:02,760
When we looked again
at our mapping data,
670
00:41:02,760 --> 00:41:05,960
we found an important clue.
671
00:41:05,960 --> 00:41:07,440
Where we did
the seabed mapping
672
00:41:07,440 --> 00:41:10,120
close enough to the shoreline,
673
00:41:10,120 --> 00:41:13,040
we did see evidence
of a raised feature
674
00:41:13,040 --> 00:41:16,720
that runs parallel
to the shoreline.
675
00:41:16,720 --> 00:41:21,840
The sonar clearly shows
this sandbar or reef offshore.
676
00:41:21,840 --> 00:41:28,200
It was maybe five feet
below the surface of the water.
677
00:41:28,200 --> 00:41:33,560
We wondered, did that sandbar
play a role in the escape?
678
00:41:33,560 --> 00:41:37,160
We went through all the evidence
we could find.
679
00:41:37,160 --> 00:41:41,400
If you look at the pictures
based on first-person accounts,
680
00:41:41,400 --> 00:41:47,800
there are pictures of the shore,
open water, ice pounded up,
681
00:41:47,800 --> 00:41:51,760
and then the vessels
stuck in the ice.
682
00:41:51,760 --> 00:41:56,960
Looking at everything,
it all became very clear.
683
00:41:56,960 --> 00:42:01,400
The ships are offshore,
and as the ice comes in,
684
00:42:01,400 --> 00:42:03,680
many of them are caught.
685
00:42:03,680 --> 00:42:07,400
As the ships are racing
to get south,
686
00:42:07,400 --> 00:42:10,720
they're encountering
more and more ice.
687
00:42:10,720 --> 00:42:12,240
They're stuck.
688
00:42:12,240 --> 00:42:17,480
And as the days pass, fangs
of ice begin to pierce hulls.
689
00:42:17,480 --> 00:42:18,840
Water floods in.
690
00:42:18,840 --> 00:42:23,360
Pressure begins to crack
and break frames.
691
00:42:23,360 --> 00:42:26,760
But that sandbar stops the ice.
692
00:42:26,760 --> 00:42:28,200
It leaves a gap.
693
00:42:28,200 --> 00:42:29,800
Between the sandbar
and the beach,
694
00:42:29,800 --> 00:42:33,720
it's an open channel of water,
and that's the escape route.
695
00:42:33,720 --> 00:42:40,080
That sandbar literally, I think,
helped save lives.
696
00:42:40,080 --> 00:42:44,120
The ships themselves are
trapped, and some are crushed.
697
00:42:44,120 --> 00:42:47,160
But they still have
their little whaleboats.
698
00:42:47,160 --> 00:42:50,000
They get into those boats
and row to where ships
699
00:42:50,000 --> 00:42:52,480
that have not been caught in
the ice are waiting for them.
700
00:42:52,480 --> 00:42:56,600
And now packed in,
in large numbers,
701
00:42:56,600 --> 00:42:58,520
they all get to go home.
702
00:42:58,520 --> 00:43:02,000
The weather was awful,
the ice was bad,
703
00:43:02,000 --> 00:43:05,840
and it's an incredible story
of human endurance.
704
00:43:07,800 --> 00:43:11,400
1,200 more people
walked out of this,
705
00:43:11,400 --> 00:43:15,480
but this was the beginning
of the end for an industry
706
00:43:15,480 --> 00:43:19,760
that had dominated the American
economy for centuries.
707
00:43:22,560 --> 00:43:24,640
Whether you're
searching for fur,
708
00:43:24,640 --> 00:43:26,720
whether you're searching
for fish,
709
00:43:26,720 --> 00:43:30,600
whether you're
searching for whale oil,
710
00:43:30,600 --> 00:43:33,360
this is a dangerous
place to sail.
711
00:43:35,400 --> 00:43:38,640
{\an8}In the 150 years since the US
purchased the territory,
712
00:43:38,640 --> 00:43:40,720
{\an8}people have taken huge risks
713
00:43:40,720 --> 00:43:45,880
{\an8}to pursue its abundant
natural resources.
714
00:43:45,880 --> 00:43:51,400
{\an8}It's a land of ice and extremes,
but people keep coming.
715
00:43:51,400 --> 00:43:55,120
{\an8}And just when Alaska
looks too challenging,
716
00:43:55,120 --> 00:43:59,360
{\an8}it offers up a new
irresistible temptation.
57362
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