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1
00:00:08,500 --> 00:00:09,750
Shall we begin?
2
00:00:13,458 --> 00:00:14,417
We are on a journey.
3
00:00:15,583 --> 00:00:16,667
To the future.
4
00:00:18,917 --> 00:00:20,166
So what happens now?
5
00:00:20,250 --> 00:00:21,542
Something extraordinary.
6
00:00:21,625 --> 00:00:24,208
♪ So what's the damage? ♪
7
00:00:24,291 --> 00:00:25,500
♪ Have you got bones
With what I said? ♪
8
00:00:25,583 --> 00:00:26,417
Elena!
9
00:00:28,333 --> 00:00:30,542
The public hates what we did,
'cause it's un-American.
10
00:00:33,667 --> 00:00:34,583
Checking in.
11
00:00:34,667 --> 00:00:36,625
Party of nine.
Eight adults, one child.
12
00:00:36,709 --> 00:00:37,875
Four nights at the Groupon rate.
13
00:00:37,959 --> 00:00:39,834
I'm the one who asked
about both the birthday cake
14
00:00:39,917 --> 00:00:41,583
and the fire extinguisher.
15
00:00:42,291 --> 00:00:43,625
♪ I don't want to see
That white flag waving ♪
16
00:00:43,709 --> 00:00:45,750
We were pushing
each other beyond having fun.
17
00:00:45,834 --> 00:00:47,333
♪ This is to the bitter end ♪
18
00:00:49,208 --> 00:00:51,375
Dracarys.
19
00:00:51,458 --> 00:00:52,750
♪ 'Cause this is
What I live for ♪
20
00:00:52,834 --> 00:00:54,583
♪ I'll never quit, no no ♪
21
00:00:54,667 --> 00:00:56,250
-Life is about taking a risk.
-♪ This is what I live for ♪
22
00:00:56,667 --> 00:00:57,917
Second time's the charm!
23
00:00:58,000 --> 00:00:59,834
-Uh, it's actually the fourth.
-Fourth. Yeah.
24
00:00:59,917 --> 00:01:01,959
♪ No, this is what I live for ♪
25
00:01:02,417 --> 00:01:05,875
♪ It's time to kiss the ring, oh
I'm trying to get gold ♪
26
00:01:05,959 --> 00:01:07,625
♪ 'Cause this is
What I live for ♪
27
00:01:08,333 --> 00:01:09,667
♪ This is what I live for ♪
28
00:01:09,750 --> 00:01:12,375
All of America is talking
about nothing else.
29
00:01:12,458 --> 00:01:13,625
♪ This is what I live for ♪
30
00:01:14,000 --> 00:01:15,333
I'm freaking out.
31
00:01:17,208 --> 00:01:18,250
Hi.
32
00:01:18,333 --> 00:01:21,000
Phoebe Robinson
and Jessica Williams!
33
00:01:21,830 --> 00:01:23,375
Welcome, welcome, welcome!
34
00:01:23,458 --> 00:01:24,750
♪This is what I live for ♪
35
00:01:27,375 --> 00:01:28,875
I want more!
36
00:01:29,250 --> 00:01:32,750
♪ This is what I live for
I never quit, no no ♪
37
00:01:32,834 --> 00:01:34,667
♪ This is what I live for ♪
38
00:03:04,709 --> 00:03:06,917
It's didn't seem like
we were making an impact
39
00:03:07,000 --> 00:03:08,709
at the time.
40
00:03:08,792 --> 00:03:11,333
We were just a bunch of kids
livin' the dream
41
00:03:11,417 --> 00:03:13,166
and traveling around the world.
42
00:03:18,750 --> 00:03:21,250
It was our bond as a family
43
00:03:21,333 --> 00:03:24,709
that enabled us to become
as successful as we did.
44
00:03:28,830 --> 00:03:30,917
We were all feeding
off each other,
45
00:03:31,000 --> 00:03:33,166
pushing each other
46
00:03:33,250 --> 00:03:36,458
beyond just going out
and having fun.
47
00:03:36,542 --> 00:03:38,500
The competitive thing was
a real cutthroat business.
48
00:03:38,583 --> 00:03:40,625
You're competing at every level.
49
00:03:40,709 --> 00:03:42,792
The surf industry
pit us against each other.
50
00:03:42,875 --> 00:03:44,917
All's fair in love and war,
and we're at war.
51
00:03:45,000 --> 00:03:46,750
You have to be a bit
of an asshole to win.
52
00:03:46,834 --> 00:03:48,875
- He was being a dick.
- Fuck him!
53
00:03:48,959 --> 00:03:51,583
If I can just do this thing
better than everybody,
54
00:03:51,667 --> 00:03:54,917
then I win...
55
00:03:55,000 --> 00:03:56,792
Friendships...
56
00:03:56,875 --> 00:04:00,875
relationships,
happiness--
57
00:04:00,959 --> 00:04:04,375
is winning worth
giving up those things?
58
00:04:17,125 --> 00:04:21,250
I was born in
Cocoa Beach, Florida, in 1972.
59
00:04:21,333 --> 00:04:24,410
My dad owned
a bait and tackle shop,
60
00:04:24,125 --> 00:04:26,750
so we just grew up
fishin' and surfin'.
61
00:04:30,792 --> 00:04:34,917
I liked to build forts
and go camp on the islands,
clamming and shrimping.
62
00:04:39,333 --> 00:04:41,830
I was pretty tough as a kid.
63
00:04:41,166 --> 00:04:43,166
I remember we were riding our
bikes one time down the street,
64
00:04:43,250 --> 00:04:44,750
and for some reason
I turned really sharp
65
00:04:44,834 --> 00:04:46,959
and I just ate it
and hit the ground super-hard.
66
00:04:47,410 --> 00:04:48,417
And the people stopped their car
and they were like,
67
00:04:48,500 --> 00:04:50,583
"Are you OK?"
and my brother goes,
68
00:04:50,667 --> 00:04:52,625
"He's the toughest kid
on the block," or something
like that, you know.
69
00:04:52,709 --> 00:04:55,333
And I was, "Yeah. I'm fine."
Ya know?
70
00:04:57,750 --> 00:04:59,500
I'll kick your butt, man.
71
00:04:59,583 --> 00:05:02,208
When I was eight years old,
a lot changed for me.
72
00:05:03,250 --> 00:05:04,792
I'll kill you, man.
73
00:05:04,875 --> 00:05:07,625
That was when my mom was trying
to kick my dad out.
74
00:05:09,959 --> 00:05:11,625
My mom just couldn't handle
the drinking and stuff.
75
00:05:11,709 --> 00:05:13,542
They would have these
76
00:05:13,625 --> 00:05:16,458
crazy, screaming fights
in the house.
77
00:05:18,709 --> 00:05:21,208
I feel like I changed
as a person.
78
00:05:23,917 --> 00:05:26,125
I went from fighting
and being aggressive
79
00:05:26,208 --> 00:05:28,410
as my way to get out
my feelings,
80
00:05:28,125 --> 00:05:32,000
to real overly sensitive
to everything.
81
00:05:33,333 --> 00:05:35,917
I was really insecure,
ya know?
82
00:05:44,542 --> 00:05:46,917
I grew up in Oxnard Shores.
83
00:05:48,500 --> 00:05:50,792
It was a rough Hispanic town.
84
00:05:52,875 --> 00:05:55,834
My dad was a talented musician.
85
00:05:55,917 --> 00:05:59,959
I think he made it to a point
where he was a big fish
in a small pond.
86
00:06:00,410 --> 00:06:03,917
But then he got sucked
into the drug scene.
87
00:06:05,959 --> 00:06:07,417
He and my stepmom,
88
00:06:07,500 --> 00:06:10,830
they would have knock-out,
drag-out fights,
89
00:06:10,166 --> 00:06:11,500
wake up with black eyes,
90
00:06:11,583 --> 00:06:13,834
and I was just like,
"God, Dad,"
91
00:06:13,917 --> 00:06:16,830
ya know,
"What are you doin'?"
92
00:06:17,583 --> 00:06:19,834
I didn't want to be
like my dad--
93
00:06:19,917 --> 00:06:23,750
a talented guy that just couldn't
get out of his hometown.
94
00:06:23,834 --> 00:06:27,750
And I didn't want to be
as strict as my mom.
95
00:06:27,834 --> 00:06:31,542
I needed to get out
from under my parents' thumb.
96
00:06:39,830 --> 00:06:41,291
I was born and raised
in Hawaii.
97
00:06:41,375 --> 00:06:43,458
I'm from Kona.
98
00:06:44,875 --> 00:06:49,410
Growing up, my parents
ran a restaurant.
99
00:06:49,125 --> 00:06:50,875
My dad was
a pretty gnarly alcoholic.
100
00:06:50,959 --> 00:06:53,542
He was drunk every day.
101
00:06:53,625 --> 00:06:57,375
One day he got in a car wreck
and lost his arm.
102
00:06:57,458 --> 00:07:00,750
My parents split up
when I was like 12 years old.
103
00:07:00,834 --> 00:07:03,410
My dad wasn't
in the picture anymore.
104
00:07:03,125 --> 00:07:05,417
Times got really hard.
105
00:07:05,500 --> 00:07:07,667
I felt a little bit lost.
106
00:07:09,166 --> 00:07:10,917
But following in
my dad's footsteps
107
00:07:11,000 --> 00:07:12,750
was never an option for me.
108
00:07:19,166 --> 00:07:22,291
I was born in
Los Angeles, California.
109
00:07:22,375 --> 00:07:24,750
My father was
a pro football player.
110
00:07:24,834 --> 00:07:26,250
He was very macho.
111
00:07:26,333 --> 00:07:29,417
Big, intimidating guy
with a beard.
112
00:07:29,500 --> 00:07:32,542
It was really tough love
with my father.
113
00:07:32,625 --> 00:07:35,291
He'd always grab us
and throw us around.
114
00:07:35,375 --> 00:07:39,166
All his emotions
came with physical stuff.
115
00:07:40,500 --> 00:07:42,959
He beat up my brother
really bad.
116
00:07:43,410 --> 00:07:45,792
It was-- whoo--
it was a big deal in our life.
117
00:07:45,875 --> 00:07:47,625
It's still hard.
118
00:07:55,333 --> 00:07:58,125
I was born in Kailua,
119
00:07:58,208 --> 00:08:00,333
that's just
the east side of Oahu.
120
00:08:00,417 --> 00:08:06,830
My mother would probably
get arrested for child abuse
121
00:08:06,166 --> 00:08:08,417
for the shit that she did.
122
00:08:08,500 --> 00:08:12,667
I'd get dropped off
at like 5:00 a.m. at Waikiki
123
00:08:12,750 --> 00:08:15,333
with $2 in my pocket,
if I was lucky,
124
00:08:15,417 --> 00:08:18,500
and then I'd get picked up
at 6:00 or 7:00 at night.
125
00:08:18,583 --> 00:08:22,830
What are you gonna eat with $2
during the day?
126
00:08:22,166 --> 00:08:23,750
Probably not
a fuckin' whole lot.
127
00:08:23,834 --> 00:08:26,542
There was this pizza place,
and there would be
128
00:08:26,625 --> 00:08:29,291
a display of a pizza.
"Hey, come eat here!"
129
00:08:29,375 --> 00:08:31,410
We would steal that pizza.
130
00:08:31,125 --> 00:08:32,917
I was a ghetto-ass kid, man,
131
00:08:33,000 --> 00:08:34,667
as ghetto as it gets.
132
00:08:34,750 --> 00:08:36,208
I had nothing else to do.
133
00:08:36,291 --> 00:08:39,667
Get in a fight and
steal some food, and surf.
134
00:08:48,750 --> 00:08:52,166
My way out was surfing.
135
00:08:54,830 --> 00:08:57,959
Ya know, "Things are chaotic?
Go out in the ocean."
136
00:08:58,410 --> 00:09:00,500
Which is funny,
'cause the ocean is chaotic.
137
00:09:00,583 --> 00:09:02,709
But I felt calm out there.
138
00:09:06,125 --> 00:09:09,333
All these problems
were happening in my life,
139
00:09:09,417 --> 00:09:12,458
and the only time I felt really
good was when I was surfing.
140
00:09:15,410 --> 00:09:18,208
That's when I had
a real sense of purpose.
141
00:09:18,291 --> 00:09:21,542
"This is who I am."
I was that surfer kid.
142
00:09:21,625 --> 00:09:24,410
I wasn't that bummed-out kid
at home.
143
00:09:33,709 --> 00:09:38,291
I grew up in Chicago
in a very regimented schedule,
144
00:09:38,375 --> 00:09:41,410
so that independence
and freedom
145
00:09:41,125 --> 00:09:43,542
to be able to shed your parents
146
00:09:43,625 --> 00:09:46,583
and it'd just be you
in the ocean--
147
00:09:46,667 --> 00:09:49,667
that's what I just completely
fell in love with.
148
00:09:54,000 --> 00:09:56,750
For me, surfing
was total freedom.
149
00:09:56,834 --> 00:09:58,959
- Hello, dear.
- Hello.
150
00:09:59,410 --> 00:10:00,917
- Getting ready
to go surfing?
- Yeah.
151
00:10:01,000 --> 00:10:02,333
Good, good, good.
152
00:10:03,750 --> 00:10:05,583
I just remember
153
00:10:05,667 --> 00:10:08,291
standing up for the first time.
154
00:10:09,834 --> 00:10:11,625
All of these elements,
155
00:10:11,709 --> 00:10:13,750
just like rushing by you.
156
00:10:13,834 --> 00:10:16,417
You're away from everything,
all of a sudden, you're above it,
157
00:10:16,500 --> 00:10:19,250
and you were gliding
and it was just-- I don't know.
158
00:10:19,333 --> 00:10:21,000
I was sold.
159
00:10:26,291 --> 00:10:27,959
Growing up on the North Shore,
160
00:10:28,410 --> 00:10:33,000
one of my first memories
of surfing was late in the day,
161
00:10:33,830 --> 00:10:35,959
so the sun was shining
down the wave,
162
00:10:36,410 --> 00:10:39,458
and I remember standing up
and having that perfect image
163
00:10:39,542 --> 00:10:42,458
of the sun glistening
on the barrel.
164
00:10:43,458 --> 00:10:46,830
I remember feeling entranced.
165
00:10:46,166 --> 00:10:49,709
Your first barrel, you're gonna
remember it forever.
166
00:10:51,375 --> 00:10:54,830
Surfing was my savior.
167
00:10:54,166 --> 00:10:57,959
All my challenges at home
and parents splitting up,
168
00:10:58,410 --> 00:11:00,500
I channeled all that
to my surfing.
169
00:11:00,583 --> 00:11:03,830
I could go do something
on my own
170
00:11:03,166 --> 00:11:05,959
that no one else could
tell me how to do,
171
00:11:06,410 --> 00:11:08,250
and I completely understood it.
172
00:11:16,410 --> 00:11:18,125
Every day was something new,
173
00:11:18,208 --> 00:11:21,166
learning something new
on a wave.
174
00:11:21,250 --> 00:11:23,166
And it made me hungry.
175
00:11:23,250 --> 00:11:25,792
Surfing comes first,
and that's my life
176
00:11:25,875 --> 00:11:27,792
and they gotta respect that.
177
00:11:27,875 --> 00:11:29,834
Vertical one more time,
178
00:11:29,917 --> 00:11:31,333
this kid is just rippin'.
179
00:11:31,417 --> 00:11:33,166
Unbelievable coordination
on a surfboard.
180
00:11:33,250 --> 00:11:35,166
That is as good as it gets.
181
00:11:35,250 --> 00:11:37,166
It doesn't get any better;
that's perfect surfing.
182
00:11:37,250 --> 00:11:39,000
Kelly Slater!
183
00:11:40,208 --> 00:11:41,834
Kelly Slater,
184
00:11:41,917 --> 00:11:44,166
one of the bright superstars
of the future,
185
00:11:44,250 --> 00:11:46,333
there's no question about it.
186
00:11:46,417 --> 00:11:50,830
The first time I met Kelly
was at the US Championships,
187
00:11:50,166 --> 00:11:53,709
Kelly was 13 and I was 12.
188
00:11:53,792 --> 00:11:56,291
Square tail, no wing--
189
00:11:56,375 --> 00:11:58,410
looks killer.
190
00:11:58,125 --> 00:12:00,208
Kelly was already
kind of a superhero,
191
00:12:00,291 --> 00:12:02,542
like Michael Jordan,
at that point,
192
00:12:02,625 --> 00:12:04,917
everyone was just like,
"Whoa. Kelly."
193
00:12:05,000 --> 00:12:08,208
And my dad's like, "Hey,
let's go take a photo with him,"
194
00:12:08,291 --> 00:12:12,000
I'm like, "No, no, no."
He's like, "Hey, Kelly!"
And I'm like, "Ohhh!"
195
00:12:12,830 --> 00:12:15,750
That awkward moment when
your parent embarrasses you.
196
00:12:15,834 --> 00:12:18,750
After that,
Rob and I became good friends,
197
00:12:18,834 --> 00:12:20,583
and we would see each other
at contests.
198
00:12:20,667 --> 00:12:24,709
And the winner: Kelly Slater!
199
00:12:24,792 --> 00:12:27,208
But back then, surfing
was not a career path.
200
00:12:27,291 --> 00:12:29,709
It was just something
you enjoyed doing.
201
00:12:34,410 --> 00:12:35,542
When I was a kid,
202
00:12:35,625 --> 00:12:37,750
my local break was
a lot of hard characters
203
00:12:37,834 --> 00:12:39,917
drinking beers and smoking weed
on the beach.
204
00:12:40,000 --> 00:12:41,917
Shane Dorian!
205
00:12:42,000 --> 00:12:44,542
I started competing in
the little local contests.
206
00:12:44,625 --> 00:12:46,917
There would be like
three kids in my division.
207
00:12:47,000 --> 00:12:50,250
And talking to those guys,
they were like, "Oh, yeah,
we're all gonna be pro surfers."
208
00:12:50,333 --> 00:12:52,166
And I was like,
"What are you talking about?"
209
00:12:52,250 --> 00:12:54,830
They're like, "Yeah,
that's what we're doing."
210
00:12:54,166 --> 00:12:56,667
I didn't know that
was an option, you know?
211
00:12:58,333 --> 00:13:00,750
I remember hanging out
with a friend,
212
00:13:00,834 --> 00:13:01,959
looking at Surfer magazine.
213
00:13:02,410 --> 00:13:03,542
I said, "I'm gonna do that.
214
00:13:03,625 --> 00:13:05,410
That's gonna be my job."
215
00:13:05,125 --> 00:13:06,625
And he was like, "Yeah, right."
216
00:13:06,709 --> 00:13:08,417
And I just, "No.
217
00:13:08,500 --> 00:13:10,417
I'm gonna be a pro surfer
someday."
218
00:13:10,500 --> 00:13:13,709
And the blueprint for me
was Tom Curren.
219
00:13:32,375 --> 00:13:34,750
I started surfing in 1985,
220
00:13:34,834 --> 00:13:39,333
and Tom Curren
won the world title that year.
221
00:13:42,125 --> 00:13:44,750
He was the first American
to win the world title
222
00:13:44,834 --> 00:13:47,834
since the inception
of professional surfing.
223
00:13:47,917 --> 00:13:51,625
It had been dominated
by Australians.
224
00:13:51,709 --> 00:13:54,458
If you ask anyone
in our generation,
225
00:13:54,542 --> 00:13:57,417
Tom Curren was our inspiration.
226
00:13:57,500 --> 00:13:59,000
He showed us what was possible.
227
00:13:59,830 --> 00:14:00,458
Rob Machado winning the heat
228
00:14:00,542 --> 00:14:02,208
and advancing...
229
00:14:02,291 --> 00:14:04,542
As a kid...
230
00:14:04,625 --> 00:14:06,125
- Did you get barreled?
- I got barreled.
231
00:14:06,208 --> 00:14:07,917
...I did pretty well
in a few contests.
232
00:14:08,000 --> 00:14:10,830
And by the time I was 18,
233
00:14:10,166 --> 00:14:12,500
I was offered
my first sponsorship deal.
234
00:14:12,583 --> 00:14:16,000
Another youngster rapidly
rising through the ranks
235
00:14:16,830 --> 00:14:18,333
is California's Taylor Knox.
236
00:14:18,417 --> 00:14:21,750
Four thousand dollars richer...
237
00:14:21,834 --> 00:14:24,830
You don't know how this helps.
238
00:14:24,166 --> 00:14:26,750
After finishing fourth
at the World Amateur Titles,
239
00:14:26,834 --> 00:14:28,500
I got the contract
I was looking for.
240
00:14:28,583 --> 00:14:30,208
I think I ended up
with $1200 a month,
241
00:14:30,291 --> 00:14:32,000
and that was a big deal.
242
00:14:32,830 --> 00:14:35,166
Look at that!
Slater's first big win.
243
00:14:35,250 --> 00:14:36,667
After a tremendous
amateur career,
244
00:14:36,750 --> 00:14:38,125
Slater has dedicated himself
245
00:14:38,208 --> 00:14:39,875
in the world
of professional surfing.
246
00:14:39,959 --> 00:14:43,410
...signed the biggest
sponsorship deal ever.
247
00:14:43,125 --> 00:14:44,709
It was a big jump for me,
248
00:14:44,792 --> 00:14:46,500
because I get nervous
in front of the big crowd...
249
00:14:46,583 --> 00:14:49,250
I was getting 75 grand a year
at 18 years old.
250
00:14:49,333 --> 00:14:51,458
Coming from not having anything
when I was a kid
251
00:14:51,542 --> 00:14:54,458
to getting paid anything
to go surfing?
252
00:14:54,542 --> 00:14:58,375
And to be able to buy
my own lunch was a bonus.
253
00:14:58,458 --> 00:15:00,917
Well, Rob, your first win
must give you momentum.
254
00:15:01,000 --> 00:15:04,500
Yeah, definitely. Gives me
a lot more confidence.
Moving up in the ratings.
255
00:15:04,583 --> 00:15:06,917
I was kinda scared
about the whole concept
256
00:15:07,000 --> 00:15:08,375
of being a pro surfer.
257
00:15:08,458 --> 00:15:12,125
I was just a little kid.
goin' surfing every day.
258
00:15:12,208 --> 00:15:15,830
I was just out there for
the pure enjoyment of it,
259
00:15:15,166 --> 00:15:18,000
like, there was no stress.
260
00:15:18,830 --> 00:15:21,625
And now you put a piece of paper
in front of someone
261
00:15:21,709 --> 00:15:24,830
with money attached to it,
262
00:15:24,166 --> 00:15:25,750
and expectations
and obligations,
263
00:15:25,834 --> 00:15:27,208
and everything changes.
264
00:15:27,291 --> 00:15:30,830
I saw it as a huge amount
of pressure, for sure.
265
00:15:30,166 --> 00:15:34,333
But I also thought,
"This is my duty to go
and earn these dollars."
266
00:15:34,417 --> 00:15:36,333
It was based on
that world title.
267
00:15:36,417 --> 00:15:38,667
They wanted you
to win that world title.
268
00:15:38,750 --> 00:15:41,583
I wanted to win so badly,
because I never went to college
269
00:15:41,667 --> 00:15:43,166
and had zero backup plan.
270
00:15:43,250 --> 00:15:45,792
I was either gonna make it
on the world tour,
271
00:15:45,875 --> 00:15:48,625
or I'd fail, and that was it.
272
00:15:48,709 --> 00:15:52,500
The end goal was always
to go on the world tour
273
00:15:52,583 --> 00:15:53,917
and be a world champ.
274
00:15:54,000 --> 00:15:55,417
That was the pinnacle
of the sport,
275
00:15:55,500 --> 00:15:57,500
win a world championship.
276
00:15:57,583 --> 00:15:59,375
But at the same time,
277
00:15:59,458 --> 00:16:01,959
you gotta go to Hawaii,
you gotta do good in Hawaii.
278
00:16:11,125 --> 00:16:14,625
Back then it was like, "Hawaii?"
Scared the shit out of me.
279
00:16:18,458 --> 00:16:22,410
Proving that you were going
to be able to surf in Hawaii--
280
00:16:22,125 --> 00:16:24,166
that was a really big part
of the deal.
281
00:16:26,375 --> 00:16:28,959
You want to make a name
for yourself, you go Pipeline.
282
00:16:29,410 --> 00:16:32,410
You can make a career off of
just surfing one wave.
283
00:16:33,542 --> 00:16:36,830
It's so powerful
and so beautiful.
284
00:16:36,166 --> 00:16:38,959
Palm trees swaying,
the white sand beach.
285
00:16:39,410 --> 00:16:41,166
It's an amazing arena.
286
00:16:41,250 --> 00:16:43,417
But when it's in a bad mood,
287
00:16:43,500 --> 00:16:45,166
it pulverizes you.
288
00:16:51,917 --> 00:16:54,166
It picks you up
and just slams you down,
289
00:16:54,250 --> 00:16:56,834
and that reef is so hard.
290
00:16:56,917 --> 00:16:59,750
It feels like you're hitting
a sharp sidewalk.
291
00:17:01,792 --> 00:17:03,375
Pipeline is definitely
292
00:17:03,458 --> 00:17:06,667
the most dangerous spot
on earth.
293
00:17:06,750 --> 00:17:09,917
I've seen a lot of guys
die there.
294
00:17:10,000 --> 00:17:12,250
That's what makes it
such a proving ground.
295
00:17:12,333 --> 00:17:15,125
It's prestigious just
to do good in the trials.
296
00:17:15,208 --> 00:17:17,166
But the real reward
is to be able to go
297
00:17:17,250 --> 00:17:19,959
and surf against the world's
best at Pipeline.
298
00:17:20,410 --> 00:17:22,250
If you're on the North Shore
and Pipeline was good
299
00:17:22,333 --> 00:17:24,875
and you weren't out there,
and you were some hot kid,
300
00:17:24,959 --> 00:17:26,417
everybody knew about it.
301
00:17:26,500 --> 00:17:29,208
Everybody saw you as someone
who was avoiding Pipeline.
302
00:17:32,830 --> 00:17:34,625
Coming from Florida,
being a small wave guy,
303
00:17:34,709 --> 00:17:37,959
there was a lot of eyes on
whether I could surf in Hawaii.
304
00:17:39,792 --> 00:17:43,125
You can be the king of your beach,
wherever that is,
305
00:17:43,208 --> 00:17:45,834
but if you can't surf well in Hawaii,
it doesn't mean anything.
306
00:17:45,917 --> 00:17:50,333
I grew up surfing the Great
Lakes on a giant surfboard.
307
00:17:50,417 --> 00:17:54,830
The first couple times
I went to Hawaii, I hated it.
308
00:17:54,166 --> 00:17:57,291
It's "big fish, small pond"
to "small fish, big pond."
309
00:17:57,375 --> 00:18:01,830
And at 5'6", 130 pounds,
310
00:18:01,166 --> 00:18:03,667
I ain't getting anything.
311
00:18:03,750 --> 00:18:06,875
The waves are bigger, stronger,
they move faster--
312
00:18:06,959 --> 00:18:08,709
it's so dangerous.
313
00:18:08,792 --> 00:18:10,667
It looks like everyone
should go to the hospital.
314
00:18:10,750 --> 00:18:14,417
Like, "No way I'm gonna
paddle out at Pipeline.
315
00:18:14,500 --> 00:18:16,667
Like... no chance."
316
00:18:16,750 --> 00:18:21,625
And then you had
some super-heavy locals.
317
00:18:21,709 --> 00:18:25,458
When you're a 135-pound
skinny haole,
318
00:18:25,542 --> 00:18:28,417
the intimidation factor
is super-high.
319
00:18:28,500 --> 00:18:32,875
I was pretty terrified
of Derek Ho and Dane Kealoha,
320
00:18:32,959 --> 00:18:35,000
Johnny Boy Gomes,
Sunny Garcia.
321
00:18:35,830 --> 00:18:38,250
These were the guys who could
put you in your place real fast.
322
00:18:38,333 --> 00:18:41,500
Like Brazil is to soccer,
Hawaii is to surfing.
323
00:18:41,583 --> 00:18:43,834
So it's territorial.
324
00:18:43,917 --> 00:18:45,583
You can't just come into Hawaii.
325
00:18:45,667 --> 00:18:48,250
That's the hardest place on
earth to fucking infiltrate.
326
00:18:48,333 --> 00:18:52,125
Hawaii is like,
"Respect? Door is wide open.
327
00:18:52,208 --> 00:18:56,125
No respect? Door is closed
and your ass is kicked."
328
00:18:56,208 --> 00:18:58,250
My God, someone stop it!
329
00:18:58,333 --> 00:19:00,417
Some of these tourists
that show up,
330
00:19:00,500 --> 00:19:03,333
they just seem to leave
their brains at home.
331
00:19:03,417 --> 00:19:08,667
If I see someone acting like
a privileged prick,
332
00:19:08,750 --> 00:19:11,875
if I feel like somebody
needs a good beating,
333
00:19:11,959 --> 00:19:13,709
I'm down to give it.
334
00:19:16,458 --> 00:19:19,625
Either you can go home
while you still can walk,
335
00:19:19,709 --> 00:19:23,410
or we're gonna
beat the shit out of you
336
00:19:23,125 --> 00:19:24,959
and send you home anyway.
337
00:19:30,125 --> 00:19:32,709
The land and the culture
was stolen from Hawaiians
338
00:19:32,792 --> 00:19:35,542
not that long ago.
339
00:19:35,625 --> 00:19:38,709
Queen Lili'uokalani was held up
in her palace at gunpoint
340
00:19:38,792 --> 00:19:40,750
and forced to hand it over.
341
00:19:43,834 --> 00:19:46,375
I am literally from the North Shore,
this is where I was raised.
342
00:19:46,458 --> 00:19:49,830
Being a white person
in Hawaii,
343
00:19:49,166 --> 00:19:52,166
you're the minority,
and you can feel it,
344
00:19:52,250 --> 00:19:53,792
it's tangible.
345
00:19:53,875 --> 00:19:56,500
It's like a reversal
from almost anywhere else.
346
00:19:58,291 --> 00:20:00,250
We were all over there
by ourselves.
347
00:20:00,333 --> 00:20:03,709
I don't remember anyone's
parents being over there.
348
00:20:03,792 --> 00:20:05,959
People were getting beat up--
349
00:20:06,410 --> 00:20:07,667
it was kinda like
the Wild West.
350
00:20:07,750 --> 00:20:09,750
"You're on your own, kid."
351
00:20:11,333 --> 00:20:13,410
I was from the Big Island
352
00:20:13,125 --> 00:20:14,750
where the waves are small,
353
00:20:14,834 --> 00:20:16,500
and here I am
on the North Shore of Oahu.
354
00:20:16,583 --> 00:20:18,792
Scary locals
and the waves are gnarly,
355
00:20:18,875 --> 00:20:20,792
and I'm terrified.
356
00:20:29,959 --> 00:20:32,458
And then in the winter of '88,
357
00:20:32,542 --> 00:20:34,917
Benji and his mom
rented a house
358
00:20:35,000 --> 00:20:37,410
right there at Pipeline.
359
00:20:37,125 --> 00:20:39,583
And that was like the epicenter
of the North Shore.
360
00:20:39,667 --> 00:20:42,250
So everyone was gravitating
towards Benji's house.
361
00:20:45,959 --> 00:20:48,125
When my mom and dad split up,
362
00:20:48,208 --> 00:20:50,417
she went to Hawaii on vacation
363
00:20:50,500 --> 00:20:53,375
and came back and said,
"Hey, boys, get in the car,
364
00:20:53,458 --> 00:20:54,792
we're movin' to Hawaii."
365
00:20:54,875 --> 00:20:57,750
And it happened to be
the North Shore of Oahu.
366
00:20:57,834 --> 00:21:00,333
When we first got ahold
of the Pipeline house,
367
00:21:00,417 --> 00:21:03,834
we didn't even know that
Pipeline and Waimea Bay
368
00:21:03,917 --> 00:21:05,750
and Sunset Beach
were down this way.
369
00:21:05,834 --> 00:21:07,417
I mean, this
is how naive we were.
370
00:21:07,500 --> 00:21:10,750
I was 12, livin' at Pipeline.
371
00:21:10,834 --> 00:21:13,830
Ross and Shane Dorian
started hanging out there,
372
00:21:13,166 --> 00:21:15,583
I'm like, "This is rad, they're
hanging out at my house."
373
00:21:15,667 --> 00:21:17,750
And then it became where all
the boys started hanging there.
374
00:21:17,834 --> 00:21:20,417
No way, guys, this is so rad!
375
00:21:22,709 --> 00:21:25,417
When Benji had his house there
at Pipeline,
376
00:21:25,500 --> 00:21:28,500
he was like, "You need a place
to stay? You can stay at my house."
377
00:21:28,583 --> 00:21:32,830
And I went from staying
in some rat-infested crack den
378
00:21:32,166 --> 00:21:33,583
to Benji's house.
379
00:21:33,667 --> 00:21:35,959
Hang out there,
watch Pipeline,
380
00:21:36,410 --> 00:21:38,917
jump on the trampoline,
bodies just everywhere,
381
00:21:39,000 --> 00:21:40,291
sleepin'.
382
00:21:40,375 --> 00:21:42,375
It was like a slumber party.
383
00:21:42,458 --> 00:21:44,583
We all knew each other
384
00:21:44,667 --> 00:21:46,959
from surfing
different amateur events.
385
00:21:47,410 --> 00:21:50,959
But it wasn't until
we all stayed at Benji's house
386
00:21:51,410 --> 00:21:53,291
that we became a posse.
387
00:21:53,375 --> 00:21:54,709
What do you think about Rob?
388
00:21:54,792 --> 00:21:57,709
He's got a real
attitude problem.
389
00:21:57,792 --> 00:22:00,834
It wasn't just this little
core group from Hawaii anymore.
390
00:22:00,917 --> 00:22:04,000
All of a sudden our group
went from this big to this big
to this big.
391
00:22:04,830 --> 00:22:05,291
It just snowballed.
392
00:22:09,291 --> 00:22:11,875
There were 80 surfboards
left at the house every day,
393
00:22:11,959 --> 00:22:15,542
all the surfers were showing up
and there were 15 people
at at time
394
00:22:15,625 --> 00:22:17,667
sleeping on the floor.
395
00:22:17,750 --> 00:22:21,000
Benji's mom was so welcoming
to everyone.
396
00:22:21,830 --> 00:22:22,667
She never asked for a dime,
397
00:22:22,750 --> 00:22:24,583
everyone eating all her food,
398
00:22:24,667 --> 00:22:26,500
leaving all their dirty shit
everywhere,
399
00:22:26,583 --> 00:22:29,375
making the house a wreck,
loud, staying up late--
400
00:22:29,458 --> 00:22:31,834
it was just like free-for-all
fun zone all day long.
401
00:22:31,917 --> 00:22:35,333
The sand was this thick
in my living room.
402
00:22:35,417 --> 00:22:37,750
And after a while
my mom just let go
403
00:22:37,834 --> 00:22:39,375
of the whole control thing
404
00:22:39,458 --> 00:22:41,667
and just said, "I love it.
I love it."
405
00:22:41,750 --> 00:22:44,291
I'd always felt
the more the merrier
406
00:22:44,375 --> 00:22:46,830
because I had nobody
growing up.
407
00:22:46,166 --> 00:22:48,333
My dad had died
and our house was empty.
408
00:22:48,417 --> 00:22:50,667
So to me, we were
just a family,
409
00:22:50,750 --> 00:22:52,542
and these were my boys.
410
00:22:52,625 --> 00:22:54,959
There were kids that were
leaving their parents
411
00:22:55,410 --> 00:22:56,500
on the east coast of America
412
00:22:56,583 --> 00:22:59,250
and spending their holiday
season with my family.
413
00:22:59,333 --> 00:23:01,875
I mean, what were
their parents thinking?
414
00:23:01,959 --> 00:23:05,959
Like, "Our kids
aren't home for Christmas!"
Every year for, like, a decade.
415
00:23:06,410 --> 00:23:07,709
Right about Christmastime
everybody goes home
416
00:23:07,792 --> 00:23:10,208
to see their parents,
and there's more waves for me.
417
00:23:10,291 --> 00:23:12,375
A lot of us come
from broken homes,
418
00:23:12,458 --> 00:23:14,417
but over at Benji's house
you felt like
419
00:23:14,500 --> 00:23:16,830
you were with your family.
420
00:23:17,458 --> 00:23:19,410
Most of us went through
421
00:23:19,125 --> 00:23:20,917
some gnarly hard times
when we were young,
422
00:23:21,000 --> 00:23:24,875
so to go somewhere where
there was a really positive,
423
00:23:24,959 --> 00:23:26,250
loving, accepting home,
424
00:23:26,333 --> 00:23:29,375
we felt like it was safe there.
425
00:23:34,417 --> 00:23:39,500
One day I met Rob surfing where
we surf, our little spot.
426
00:23:41,458 --> 00:23:44,500
And he brought me
into Benji's house.
427
00:23:47,410 --> 00:23:49,000
Without that group,
428
00:23:49,830 --> 00:23:52,875
I would have guaran-fuckin-teed
been in jail.
429
00:23:52,959 --> 00:23:55,625
That single-handedly
changed my whole life.
430
00:23:55,709 --> 00:23:59,959
Whoo!
431
00:24:00,410 --> 00:24:04,250
When Benji had
his house at Pipeline,
432
00:24:04,333 --> 00:24:06,417
it would be ten of us
on the deck
433
00:24:06,500 --> 00:24:08,583
watching the waves,
boards in the racks.
434
00:24:08,667 --> 00:24:11,959
We knew we needed
to get out there and surf.
435
00:24:12,410 --> 00:24:14,291
We just needed
someone to push us.
436
00:24:16,166 --> 00:24:18,166
Rob We'd all stand out
on the deck,
437
00:24:18,250 --> 00:24:20,792
everyone's questioning
the waves, yourself,
438
00:24:20,875 --> 00:24:22,500
and here comes Todd.
439
00:24:25,291 --> 00:24:27,166
Todd Chesser would
walk through the yard,
440
00:24:27,250 --> 00:24:28,959
and he wouldn't even ask
if he could come over.
441
00:24:29,410 --> 00:24:30,333
He was just such a gnarly dude.
442
00:24:30,417 --> 00:24:33,166
- Yeah! Did you do anything yet?
- Yeah.
443
00:24:33,250 --> 00:24:36,458
But not with me.
The day's not any good.
444
00:24:36,542 --> 00:24:38,250
It's gettin' good.
445
00:24:38,333 --> 00:24:40,500
Todd Chesser and Brock Little
were already
446
00:24:40,583 --> 00:24:43,333
completely established
pro surfers at the time.
447
00:24:43,417 --> 00:24:46,166
We looked up to those guys
so much.
448
00:24:46,250 --> 00:24:47,667
We wanted to be
just like them.
449
00:24:47,750 --> 00:24:50,291
Brock was the first guy
450
00:24:50,375 --> 00:24:53,500
that pioneered surfing
Himalayas and Waimea.
451
00:24:53,583 --> 00:24:55,125
He was so fearless.
452
00:24:55,208 --> 00:24:57,542
Behind him, slowly but surely,
453
00:24:57,625 --> 00:24:59,125
Todd Chesser
454
00:24:59,208 --> 00:25:01,208
started surfing
big waves as well.
455
00:25:07,250 --> 00:25:11,792
Brock was already starting
to take off in his career.
456
00:25:11,875 --> 00:25:14,500
And when he would travel
around the world,
457
00:25:14,583 --> 00:25:16,667
Todd hung out with us.
458
00:25:16,750 --> 00:25:19,291
Todd Chesser was
a couple years older.
459
00:25:19,375 --> 00:25:22,333
He was the one
that pushed all of us.
460
00:25:22,417 --> 00:25:24,830
He was brutal.
461
00:25:26,583 --> 00:25:28,166
You'd come in after,
462
00:25:28,250 --> 00:25:31,830
thinking, "Oh, man, I just
got such a good wave.
463
00:25:31,166 --> 00:25:33,410
I wonder if Todd saw it."
464
00:25:34,500 --> 00:25:36,500
Todd didn't talk about
any of the waves I got,
465
00:25:36,583 --> 00:25:39,830
it was like,
"Why'd you paddle in?"
466
00:25:39,166 --> 00:25:43,458
You know? Like, "OK.
Well, um, 'cause it's easier?"
467
00:25:43,542 --> 00:25:46,410
"No. Don't wuss out.
Get through it."
468
00:25:46,125 --> 00:25:50,458
I remember watching Chesser
letting waves land on him.
469
00:25:50,542 --> 00:25:54,410
He was laughing,
almost to say, like,
470
00:25:54,125 --> 00:25:56,291
"What's the big deal, grom?"
471
00:25:56,375 --> 00:25:59,250
And you'd just be like...
looking for an out.
472
00:25:59,333 --> 00:26:01,834
"Oh, my ankle's kinda sore."
473
00:26:01,917 --> 00:26:05,830
"Shut up. Grab your board.
Let's go."
474
00:26:05,166 --> 00:26:06,792
Todd was like a sensei to us.
475
00:26:06,875 --> 00:26:09,917
He was always one step
ahead of what we were doing.
476
00:26:10,000 --> 00:26:11,834
He could see
that you could do it,
477
00:26:11,917 --> 00:26:13,875
but you couldn't see yourself
that you could do it.
478
00:26:13,959 --> 00:26:17,458
And he would say little things
that would get under your skin,
479
00:26:17,542 --> 00:26:19,834
like, " You probably
won't make it anyway."
480
00:26:19,917 --> 00:26:22,458
And you'd be like,
"Fuck that. I'll make it."
481
00:26:22,542 --> 00:26:25,500
Now, looking back on it,
he knew what he was doing.
482
00:26:27,000 --> 00:26:29,542
He knew how far
to push your limits,
483
00:26:29,625 --> 00:26:32,166
dangerously close
to life-or-death.
484
00:26:32,250 --> 00:26:34,750
Todd Chesser would surf
any size big wave,
485
00:26:34,834 --> 00:26:37,125
and he had a huge influence
on all of us.
486
00:26:37,208 --> 00:26:39,333
Eventually we were all
feeding off each other,
487
00:26:39,417 --> 00:26:40,917
pushing each other,
488
00:26:41,000 --> 00:26:42,458
in a friendly way
trying to outdo each other.
489
00:26:42,542 --> 00:26:44,583
We always used to say,
"Oh, you won't go."
490
00:26:44,667 --> 00:26:46,625
Just that challenge,
like turn around on a big wave
491
00:26:46,709 --> 00:26:49,125
or a late drop and just go.
492
00:26:49,208 --> 00:26:53,410
If you heard "You won't go"
in our crew, you're goin'.
493
00:26:53,125 --> 00:26:55,625
And if you don't go...
Aaah!
494
00:26:55,709 --> 00:26:57,917
That's like a month
of getting heckled.
495
00:26:58,000 --> 00:26:59,917
And being heckled-- ugh--
is the worst.
496
00:27:00,000 --> 00:27:01,542
I'd rather split my head open.
497
00:27:01,625 --> 00:27:03,333
Just kicked his ass.
498
00:27:03,417 --> 00:27:07,000
You're not nervous.
Don't chew your fingernail, man.
499
00:27:07,830 --> 00:27:08,709
He's a little mad right now,
500
00:27:08,792 --> 00:27:13,830
It isn't like, "Hey, man,
you'll get the next one,"
501
00:27:13,166 --> 00:27:15,375
it was verbal beatings.
502
00:27:15,458 --> 00:27:17,375
And you felt this big.
503
00:27:17,458 --> 00:27:21,000
And all you would do is think about,
"OK, when's my next chance?
504
00:27:21,830 --> 00:27:23,625
Because I can't
let that happen again."
505
00:27:23,709 --> 00:27:26,792
I remember eating shit
on a 10-foot wave at Pipe
506
00:27:26,875 --> 00:27:28,959
and Chesser actually
acknowledging it.
507
00:27:29,410 --> 00:27:31,125
Like going,
"Dude, that was sick.
508
00:27:31,208 --> 00:27:33,583
So stoked you went on that wave."
509
00:27:33,667 --> 00:27:37,834
"Yeah, but I cartwheeled
down the face and ate crap."
510
00:27:37,917 --> 00:27:40,417
"Yeah. That was killer."
511
00:27:40,500 --> 00:27:43,291
It changed the way
we perceived safety.
512
00:27:43,375 --> 00:27:47,291
I mean, at 15, we were
surfing 25-foot waves.
It was unbelievably dangerous.
513
00:27:47,375 --> 00:27:49,750
♪ Flyin' up to heaven
and I fell from the clouds ♪
514
00:27:49,834 --> 00:27:53,166
♪ It was pretty freakin' sweet
until I blacked out ♪
515
00:28:13,667 --> 00:28:16,500
I remember one day
as we were paddling out,
516
00:28:16,583 --> 00:28:18,410
this enormous set comes in.
517
00:28:18,125 --> 00:28:20,583
Yee-haw!
518
00:28:20,667 --> 00:28:22,834
Oh, my God!
519
00:28:25,125 --> 00:28:26,834
And I couldn't even
take a breath in.
520
00:28:26,917 --> 00:28:30,500
I was like hyperventilating
like I'm gonna fucking die.
521
00:28:30,583 --> 00:28:33,410
And I remember
looking over at Benji,
522
00:28:33,125 --> 00:28:35,417
and Benji laughing.
"Haaa!"
523
00:28:35,500 --> 00:28:38,410
Like a fun ride
at an amusement park.
524
00:28:38,125 --> 00:28:39,792
Todd Chesser, he taught me
525
00:28:39,875 --> 00:28:41,291
that if a wave breaks
in front of you
526
00:28:41,375 --> 00:28:43,500
and you laugh,
it calms your heart rate
527
00:28:43,583 --> 00:28:45,625
so you can breathe more.
528
00:28:45,709 --> 00:28:48,917
You can't afford to surf
big waves if you're scared.
529
00:28:49,000 --> 00:28:51,792
That just means
your adrenaline's running,
your heart's pumping--
530
00:28:51,875 --> 00:28:55,375
odds are you're not gonna be
able to hold your breath
as long.
531
00:28:55,458 --> 00:28:57,375
It's just simple science.
532
00:28:58,583 --> 00:28:59,709
A number of guys
got hurt really bad.
533
00:28:59,792 --> 00:29:01,410
Benji had a really bad,
scary one,
534
00:29:01,125 --> 00:29:02,625
he caught a second reef wave
one day
535
00:29:02,709 --> 00:29:05,875
and just got hammered
on the inside reef.
536
00:29:05,959 --> 00:29:07,917
I got held down
for two waves.
537
00:29:08,000 --> 00:29:10,875
I was down,
scrambling for my life,
538
00:29:10,959 --> 00:29:13,000
and I felt the give-up--
539
00:29:13,830 --> 00:29:16,959
the give-up is where you just
kinda go "Not gonna make it,"
like, "Uhh! Uhh!"
540
00:29:17,410 --> 00:29:19,500
I remember
when I hit the water,
541
00:29:19,583 --> 00:29:21,458
the lip hit me and knocked
all the wind out of me.
542
00:29:21,542 --> 00:29:23,417
And I immediately was going...
543
00:29:23,500 --> 00:29:25,750
I was underwater forever,
544
00:29:25,834 --> 00:29:28,917
and then the wave
finally started letting me up
545
00:29:29,000 --> 00:29:32,667
and I started swimming up,
and I felt like this was it,
546
00:29:32,750 --> 00:29:34,417
like I need to get
to the surface.
547
00:29:34,500 --> 00:29:37,830
And the next wave
broke like this, over me,
548
00:29:37,166 --> 00:29:40,830
and that was
the last thing I remember.
549
00:29:42,959 --> 00:29:45,750
I opened my eyes,
and time had passed,
550
00:29:45,834 --> 00:29:47,417
I was crying hysterically.
551
00:29:47,500 --> 00:29:49,583
I was just sitting in the foam
on my board
552
00:29:49,667 --> 00:29:51,875
and I was coughing up
all this gross shit...
553
00:29:51,959 --> 00:29:54,959
And I look, and Dorian is
running, he's like, "Aah!"
554
00:29:55,410 --> 00:29:58,166
And he comes and grabs me,
"Oh, my God, we made it!"
555
00:29:58,250 --> 00:29:59,750
We hug, we're laughing,
556
00:29:59,834 --> 00:30:01,917
and my ears are messed up,
my body hurts,
557
00:30:02,000 --> 00:30:03,542
and I'm like, "I almost died!"
558
00:30:03,625 --> 00:30:05,750
And Dorian's like,
"I'm goin' back out."
559
00:30:05,834 --> 00:30:08,830
And I'm like... ding!
560
00:30:08,166 --> 00:30:10,000
Like, "Arghh!"
561
00:30:10,830 --> 00:30:12,333
It's a fine line between
562
00:30:12,417 --> 00:30:14,125
having the best wave
of your life
563
00:30:14,208 --> 00:30:15,667
and actually getting hurt.
564
00:30:15,750 --> 00:30:17,792
Jack Johnson blew his face up
one time
565
00:30:17,875 --> 00:30:19,875
on a Kelly "You won't go."
566
00:30:24,410 --> 00:30:25,625
I went to Jack's house,
567
00:30:25,709 --> 00:30:27,667
and he looked like
the Elephant Man.
568
00:30:27,750 --> 00:30:29,166
His teeth were missing.
569
00:30:29,250 --> 00:30:31,000
The only think I could do
was almost laugh
570
00:30:31,830 --> 00:30:33,417
because it was uncomfortable--
I don't even know what to say.
571
00:30:33,500 --> 00:30:35,830
That wave
you hurt yourself on--
572
00:30:35,166 --> 00:30:37,667
why you told everyone that
I said you won't go on that?
573
00:30:37,750 --> 00:30:39,542
Why did you do that?
Trying to make me feel bad?
574
00:30:39,625 --> 00:30:41,410
I didn't tell anybody that, Kelly.
575
00:30:41,125 --> 00:30:44,542
His life was altered,
like, he almost died.
576
00:30:44,625 --> 00:30:47,208
Almost dying in big waves,
as morbid as it sounds,
577
00:30:47,291 --> 00:30:50,166
is one of the things that's
exciting about big wave surfing.
578
00:30:50,250 --> 00:30:53,709
It's that kind of junkie vibe
you get from it that
keeps you coming back.
579
00:30:56,709 --> 00:30:58,667
We've all had stitches,
580
00:30:58,750 --> 00:31:01,208
we've all bounced
off the bottom.
581
00:31:05,208 --> 00:31:08,375
You go out when it's 10 feet,
and you're like,
582
00:31:08,458 --> 00:31:11,792
"Oh, wow. I took a couple
on the head, I hit the bottom,
583
00:31:11,875 --> 00:31:13,667
and I'm OK."
584
00:31:13,750 --> 00:31:16,208
So then you go out
when it's 12 feet.
585
00:31:18,625 --> 00:31:20,917
Next thing you know
it's 20 feet.
586
00:31:23,792 --> 00:31:25,750
I couldn't get out
of the barrel.
587
00:31:25,834 --> 00:31:27,542
The whole way
I'm just going, "Whoa!"
588
00:31:27,625 --> 00:31:29,875
And I'd think I'd be coming out,
and it'd keep peeling,
589
00:31:29,959 --> 00:31:31,834
like, "What?! What?! What?!"
590
00:31:31,917 --> 00:31:34,542
I remember being out on
this huge day at Pipeline
591
00:31:34,625 --> 00:31:37,959
and watching Shane Dorian
catch a 20-foot left.
592
00:31:39,458 --> 00:31:42,375
I'm like, "Oh, my God.
Dude, that's my friend!
593
00:31:42,458 --> 00:31:43,834
He's on a 20-foot--
594
00:31:43,917 --> 00:31:46,291
Well, if he got one,
then I can get one."
595
00:31:46,375 --> 00:31:48,917
Whoa! Whoa!
596
00:31:51,625 --> 00:31:54,542
Before long, our crew
was ruling Pipeline.
597
00:31:54,625 --> 00:31:56,208
I mean, we were catching
all the sets,
598
00:31:56,291 --> 00:31:58,375
and it all came from
putting our time in
599
00:31:58,458 --> 00:32:00,500
and taking our place.
600
00:32:11,792 --> 00:32:13,583
Whoo-hoo!
601
00:32:13,667 --> 00:32:15,458
One day Surfer magazine
calls me,
602
00:32:15,542 --> 00:32:17,333
"Hey, we're gonna do
a photo of your house."
603
00:32:17,417 --> 00:32:19,830
And I was like, "Cool. Why?"
604
00:32:19,166 --> 00:32:21,291
And the photo is legendary now.
605
00:32:21,375 --> 00:32:23,208
When I look at it,
I'm like, "Oh, I get it.
606
00:32:23,291 --> 00:32:25,166
I know what everyone was
saying-- 'Benji's house!'"
607
00:32:27,000 --> 00:32:31,125
That day our crew
was set in stone.
608
00:32:31,208 --> 00:32:33,375
We were a brotherhood.
609
00:32:33,458 --> 00:32:35,792
We had our own language
for a long time.
610
00:32:35,875 --> 00:32:37,709
We'd all just speak
in weird tongues
611
00:32:37,792 --> 00:32:40,834
and just had so many code words
that were like four layers deep.
612
00:32:41,875 --> 00:32:43,208
Get up, boolay!
613
00:32:43,291 --> 00:32:45,959
The contest is on, bro.
Get up and get some cereal.
614
00:32:46,410 --> 00:32:47,792
This is your sock on drugs.
615
00:32:47,875 --> 00:32:50,375
This is my sock on PK.
616
00:32:50,458 --> 00:32:52,125
Kalani was like
a younger brother
617
00:32:52,208 --> 00:32:54,375
who doesn't know
where he fits in sometimes.
618
00:32:54,458 --> 00:32:56,625
And so he would be
like a little shit to us.
619
00:32:56,709 --> 00:32:58,375
One time we were jumping
on the trampoline,
620
00:32:58,458 --> 00:33:00,709
and for absolutely
no reason whatsoever,
621
00:33:00,792 --> 00:33:02,709
on an up-bounce he just
pushed me into the bushes.
622
00:33:02,792 --> 00:33:04,834
I got up and I wanted
to kill him, but he's so small,
623
00:33:04,917 --> 00:33:07,166
I'm like, "Why did you do that?"
He's like, "I don't know.
624
00:33:07,250 --> 00:33:09,166
I just felt like doing it."
625
00:33:09,250 --> 00:33:11,375
We sponsored Kalani
when he was ten years old.
626
00:33:11,458 --> 00:33:13,166
He was really wiggly
and really fast,
627
00:33:13,250 --> 00:33:14,625
really squirmy--
wiggly, wiggly, wiggly!
628
00:33:14,709 --> 00:33:16,667
I'm like,
"This guy's so wiggly!"
629
00:33:16,750 --> 00:33:18,792
He was this big--
he was like an action figure.
630
00:33:18,875 --> 00:33:22,458
And he was doing things that
no 12-year-old's ever done.
631
00:33:22,542 --> 00:33:25,208
He's got the genes of Superman.
632
00:33:25,291 --> 00:33:29,166
He could eat cinnamon rolls
and get ripped.
633
00:33:29,250 --> 00:33:31,750
We all had different diets,
completely.
634
00:33:31,834 --> 00:33:34,667
Shane eats protein
and raw deer
635
00:33:34,750 --> 00:33:38,000
and stuff that he kills--
Arr! Arr! Arr! Like that.
636
00:33:38,830 --> 00:33:40,375
Machado, quesadillas.
637
00:33:40,458 --> 00:33:43,291
All day! That's it!
Ranch quesadillas.
638
00:33:43,375 --> 00:33:46,583
Kelly eats raw almonds
and air.
639
00:33:47,750 --> 00:33:48,959
Ross is on
640
00:33:49,410 --> 00:33:52,208
a paleo-anorexic-heroin diet.
641
00:33:53,417 --> 00:33:55,458
I eat carbs-- unhh!--
642
00:33:55,542 --> 00:33:56,834
out of beer bottles.
643
00:33:56,917 --> 00:33:59,667
Benji's the class clown.
644
00:34:01,830 --> 00:34:02,417
Benji doesn't have
645
00:34:02,500 --> 00:34:04,830
one competitive bone
in his body,
646
00:34:04,166 --> 00:34:05,875
so he's like the extreme--
there's Kelly,
647
00:34:05,959 --> 00:34:07,830
and there's Benji over here.
648
00:34:10,750 --> 00:34:12,375
I thought we were boxing!
649
00:34:12,458 --> 00:34:14,208
I'm outta here.
650
00:34:14,291 --> 00:34:15,875
I gotta surf tomorrow.
651
00:34:15,959 --> 00:34:19,250
Kelly is hell,
because we all think
652
00:34:19,333 --> 00:34:21,875
he sold his soul
to the devil.
653
00:34:21,959 --> 00:34:24,410
He's always been
freakishly flexible.
654
00:34:24,125 --> 00:34:25,959
He's got scoliosis
in his spine.
655
00:34:27,500 --> 00:34:29,625
That is so wrong.
656
00:34:29,709 --> 00:34:31,250
Triple-jointed,
657
00:34:31,333 --> 00:34:33,875
the weird nugget calves
with the twig legs.
658
00:34:33,959 --> 00:34:36,291
He's got a body that
no human's supposed to have.
659
00:34:36,375 --> 00:34:37,625
Like, he's creepy body.
660
00:34:39,583 --> 00:34:42,959
Kelly's lucky he's Syrian.
He's meant to be in the sun.
661
00:34:43,410 --> 00:34:45,417
Shane is just Shane-o.
662
00:34:45,500 --> 00:34:47,417
Shane-o!
663
00:34:47,500 --> 00:34:49,583
He was super into his hair.
664
00:34:49,667 --> 00:34:52,250
I think that's a bad thing
for a guy who's bald now.
665
00:34:52,333 --> 00:34:55,458
I'm glad I was never
that into my hair.
666
00:34:55,542 --> 00:34:58,250
Whenever a camera
would come out,
667
00:34:58,333 --> 00:35:02,000
Shane would kind of
pucker his lips.
668
00:35:02,830 --> 00:35:04,417
We used to all give him shit,
like, "What are you doing
with your mouth, dude?"
669
00:35:04,500 --> 00:35:08,458
Shane did the frickin' "Zoolander"
Blue Steel before that movie came out.
670
00:35:10,500 --> 00:35:12,583
Ross. Really sarcastic,
671
00:35:12,667 --> 00:35:15,125
dirty sense of humor--
I like it.
672
00:35:15,208 --> 00:35:16,917
Ross is super-gross,
673
00:35:17,000 --> 00:35:19,250
says horribly
inappropriate things,
674
00:35:19,333 --> 00:35:21,458
but looks like the nicest guy
you've ever met.
675
00:35:21,542 --> 00:35:24,583
Pat is like a little
garden gnome.
676
00:35:24,667 --> 00:35:27,417
He is the happiest guy
in the world.
677
00:35:27,500 --> 00:35:28,917
When Pat has a bad day,
678
00:35:29,000 --> 00:35:31,166
he's like, Man,
I'm so bummed right now."
679
00:35:31,250 --> 00:35:32,667
That's Pat being mad
right there.
680
00:35:32,750 --> 00:35:34,166
Pat's balls,
681
00:35:34,250 --> 00:35:35,792
he had a fascination
682
00:35:35,875 --> 00:35:37,291
with his balls
when we were young.
683
00:35:37,375 --> 00:35:40,709
You'd look over at him
at lunch or lineup
684
00:35:40,792 --> 00:35:42,959
or when we're waiting
for a flight,
685
00:35:43,410 --> 00:35:44,375
and he'd just have
his balls out.
686
00:35:44,458 --> 00:35:45,625
He was proud of his balls.
687
00:35:45,709 --> 00:35:47,583
He was like a little guy
with big balls.
688
00:35:51,458 --> 00:35:53,667
Yeah, I don't know.
689
00:35:53,750 --> 00:35:57,410
I just would-- they'd always
just drop out.
690
00:35:57,125 --> 00:35:59,750
Is anyone there?
Where the hell am I?!
691
00:35:59,834 --> 00:36:02,500
Taylor Knox is the biggest jock
of our crew.
692
00:36:02,583 --> 00:36:04,500
The quarterback guy
in high school
693
00:36:04,583 --> 00:36:06,166
that pulled underwear
up the guy's butt?
694
00:36:06,250 --> 00:36:08,750
- He was that guy.
- Taylor Knox,
695
00:36:08,834 --> 00:36:11,000
his nickname was Bonehead.
696
00:36:11,830 --> 00:36:13,500
We're not supposed
to say that, though.
697
00:36:14,583 --> 00:36:16,417
Anyone else call him Bonehead?
698
00:36:16,500 --> 00:36:18,250
Am I the only one?
699
00:36:21,417 --> 00:36:25,125
Rob Machado, we just
call him The Fro. Fromo.
700
00:36:25,208 --> 00:36:27,834
It grows fast, dude.
You got a pretty fertile head.
701
00:36:27,917 --> 00:36:31,830
- You said "head."
- You said "fertile."
702
00:36:31,166 --> 00:36:33,500
Let's be honest,
the white Jimi Hendrix.
703
00:36:33,583 --> 00:36:35,291
They would see him walking
down the street in Japan,
704
00:36:35,375 --> 00:36:37,709
and it was like Elvis sighting--
you'd just see the afro.
705
00:36:37,792 --> 00:36:41,166
You would see
that thing going through,
it'd be, "Aaah! Rob Machado!"
706
00:36:41,250 --> 00:36:44,208
And then there was
Taylor Steele.
707
00:36:47,834 --> 00:36:49,500
Every morning
on my way to school,
708
00:36:49,583 --> 00:36:51,792
I'd have to walk right by
this old van,
709
00:36:51,875 --> 00:36:54,709
it looked like
a rapist's van, 100%.
710
00:36:54,792 --> 00:36:57,542
One day, it's almost Christmas,
711
00:36:57,625 --> 00:36:59,458
and my mom goes,
"Why don't you invite
712
00:36:59,542 --> 00:37:01,750
those two boys in that van
out there for dinner?"
713
00:37:01,834 --> 00:37:03,667
And I go, "What?! No way!"
714
00:37:03,750 --> 00:37:06,125
She's like, "Come on, they don't
have their family here."
715
00:37:06,208 --> 00:37:08,792
So I go out there,
I'm "Hey, guys," ya know?
716
00:37:08,875 --> 00:37:11,410
The whole door comes open,
717
00:37:11,125 --> 00:37:13,625
I'm like, "Whoa,"
they lived in there,
it was kind of gnarly.
718
00:37:13,709 --> 00:37:15,792
And I'm like, "You guys want
to have Christmas dinner here?"
719
00:37:15,875 --> 00:37:17,410
They're like, "Yeah!"
720
00:37:17,125 --> 00:37:20,667
Yeah, that story's
not true at all.
721
00:37:20,750 --> 00:37:22,410
Benji only let me
stay at his house
722
00:37:22,125 --> 00:37:23,625
because I was doing
his chores for him.
723
00:37:23,709 --> 00:37:26,667
Are you having fun
doing dishes?
724
00:37:26,750 --> 00:37:28,500
We were shooting
Pipeline every day,
725
00:37:28,583 --> 00:37:30,333
because that was
the spot to shoot.
726
00:37:30,417 --> 00:37:33,667
Seeing yourself on video was
a huge novelty at that time.
727
00:37:33,750 --> 00:37:35,625
There was no one on the beach
with cameras.
728
00:37:39,417 --> 00:37:41,375
That was way before
videos were videos.
729
00:37:41,458 --> 00:37:44,333
We weren't in videos,
only big-time corporate
companies did videos.
730
00:37:44,417 --> 00:37:47,830
After each session,
Taylor would only
731
00:37:47,166 --> 00:37:49,208
let us watch it
one time through,
732
00:37:49,291 --> 00:37:51,208
and we couldn't stop
to rewind or pause.
733
00:37:51,291 --> 00:37:53,000
'Cause it would
destroy the tape.
734
00:37:53,830 --> 00:37:55,709
There's be like 25 of us,
all screaming,
735
00:37:55,792 --> 00:37:57,458
"Look how smashed Shane-o got!"
736
00:37:57,542 --> 00:37:59,417
Or, "He had the best one,
he won the session today."
737
00:37:59,500 --> 00:38:01,250
So that could be like
five hours.
738
00:38:01,333 --> 00:38:03,875
One day, I remember
Taylor telling us
739
00:38:03,959 --> 00:38:05,417
"I'm gonna make this movie,
740
00:38:05,500 --> 00:38:06,959
and you guys are all
gonna have parts."
741
00:38:07,410 --> 00:38:09,792
So then we started
working on our parts.
742
00:38:09,875 --> 00:38:13,750
None of us really knew
what was about to happen.
743
00:38:17,417 --> 00:38:20,542
The guys were surfing
faster and more energetic,
744
00:38:20,625 --> 00:38:22,417
and I wanted
that kind of feel to it.
745
00:38:25,959 --> 00:38:29,583
Punk rock and surfing
were never merged before.
746
00:38:29,667 --> 00:38:32,125
And I didn't know it
until I put in the first edit,
747
00:38:32,208 --> 00:38:33,709
and once I saw it in an edit,
748
00:38:33,792 --> 00:38:35,375
I went,
"That is the perfect mix."
749
00:38:47,917 --> 00:38:51,625
But my parents,
they just didn't get it.
750
00:38:51,709 --> 00:38:53,917
The footage
didn't look that great,
751
00:38:54,000 --> 00:38:55,250
it was kind of grainy.
752
00:38:55,333 --> 00:38:57,000
I'm old school.
753
00:38:57,830 --> 00:38:58,834
All the surf movies I'd seen
754
00:38:58,917 --> 00:39:01,542
had scenery and locations.
755
00:39:03,291 --> 00:39:06,250
At the time, surf movies
were built on
756
00:39:06,333 --> 00:39:08,410
going to an exotic destination
757
00:39:08,125 --> 00:39:10,750
that only a handful of people
could afford.
758
00:39:10,834 --> 00:39:14,166
But Taylor's movies were built
in everyday conditions.
759
00:39:14,250 --> 00:39:17,500
All of a sudden,
the kids could relate.
760
00:39:17,583 --> 00:39:19,000
They're like, "Oh, my God!
761
00:39:19,830 --> 00:39:20,667
I just got to watch
the best surfers
762
00:39:20,750 --> 00:39:23,000
surf waves that
I surf every day."
763
00:39:38,792 --> 00:39:43,830
We didn't relate to it,
but we said, "What we'll do is
764
00:39:43,166 --> 00:39:44,959
we'll pay for
the first thousand,
765
00:39:45,410 --> 00:39:46,834
but you have to go sell 'em."
766
00:39:46,917 --> 00:39:48,875
This is Taylor.
That's an attack dog for ya.
767
00:39:48,959 --> 00:39:50,834
- What have you been doin'?
- Makin' movies.
768
00:39:50,917 --> 00:39:53,583
- You doin' this for school?
- Just for the hell of it.
769
00:39:53,667 --> 00:39:55,208
This guy, he's from Bubblegum.
770
00:39:55,291 --> 00:39:57,834
Come in on Monday.
I'll take care of ya.
771
00:39:57,917 --> 00:40:01,750
When Taylor came back and said
he sold all of 'em,
we were in shock.
772
00:40:01,834 --> 00:40:05,583
We started liking it.
My husband would work out
to the music.
773
00:40:05,667 --> 00:40:09,125
Wow, look at
all those people coming!
774
00:40:09,208 --> 00:40:10,792
Holy shit!
775
00:40:15,375 --> 00:40:17,333
It was such a success that
Taylor immediately was like,
776
00:40:17,417 --> 00:40:19,583
"We're gonna do another one
of these things."
777
00:40:22,410 --> 00:40:25,250
We're gonna film for a year--
try and make the best part you can."
778
00:40:28,125 --> 00:40:30,750
Taylor's movies were like
the glue between us.
779
00:40:30,834 --> 00:40:33,625
They were the thing that
bonded us, kept us together,
780
00:40:33,709 --> 00:40:36,750
traveling together, staying together,
filming together.
781
00:40:40,750 --> 00:40:43,875
You're taking
your seat belt off again.
782
00:40:43,959 --> 00:40:47,291
Sorry. I didn't even know
they were filming me this day.
783
00:40:47,375 --> 00:40:50,250
I was just out there.
The sun was too bright,
so I'm like, "Aah!"
784
00:40:50,333 --> 00:40:52,166
Then somebody
snapped a picture of me.
785
00:40:52,250 --> 00:40:53,959
I just want to sleep.
786
00:40:57,792 --> 00:40:59,417
We started touring the movies
787
00:40:59,500 --> 00:41:01,959
with the bands that had songs
in the films.
788
00:41:04,625 --> 00:41:07,208
If there's more than five people
in this bar, I'm not doing it.
789
00:41:07,291 --> 00:41:09,750
It was all about
having a heart
790
00:41:09,834 --> 00:41:11,291
that is beating really fast
791
00:41:11,375 --> 00:41:12,959
and it's gonna
explode out of your chest
792
00:41:13,410 --> 00:41:14,625
if you don't make
something of yourself,
793
00:41:14,709 --> 00:41:16,625
because you're driven
to change how it was
794
00:41:16,709 --> 00:41:17,750
when you were younger.
795
00:41:22,709 --> 00:41:24,625
We were all
disenfranchised youth
796
00:41:24,709 --> 00:41:26,375
trying to find our own way.
797
00:41:29,542 --> 00:41:31,583
There would be
no Unwritten Law
798
00:41:31,667 --> 00:41:33,333
without the Momentum
and Focus videos.
799
00:41:33,417 --> 00:41:36,125
When we recognized we had
fans across the planet,
800
00:41:36,208 --> 00:41:40,410
we just kind of celebrated
every night... since then.
801
00:41:47,834 --> 00:41:51,830
Taylor's movie was
the biggest thing that ever
happened to our band.
802
00:41:51,166 --> 00:41:53,375
It changed
our lives completely.
803
00:41:53,458 --> 00:41:54,834
It meant that
we could put out records
804
00:41:54,917 --> 00:41:56,500
and go on tour for
the rest of our lives,
805
00:41:56,583 --> 00:41:58,458
and that's what we did.
806
00:41:58,542 --> 00:42:00,458
♪ Especially those who weren't
with us too long ♪
807
00:42:00,542 --> 00:42:03,875
♪ Life is the most precious
thing you can lose ♪
808
00:42:03,959 --> 00:42:08,792
♪ Canton, Colvin, Nichols,
this one's for you! ♪
809
00:42:08,875 --> 00:42:12,750
♪ Oh, oh, oh, oh ♪
810
00:42:12,834 --> 00:42:17,542
♪ Oh, oh oh oh ♪
811
00:42:25,625 --> 00:42:27,208
We wanna thank Taylor Steele
812
00:42:27,291 --> 00:42:28,709
for making this
all fuckin' possible.
813
00:42:28,792 --> 00:42:30,959
Give it up
for Taylor Steele!
814
00:42:32,959 --> 00:42:35,625
Taylor Steele's movies
made the Momentum crew
815
00:42:35,709 --> 00:42:37,542
all pretty big
and pretty popular.
816
00:42:37,625 --> 00:42:39,208
But there wasn't
a lot of belief
817
00:42:39,291 --> 00:42:41,291
amongst the old guard
that these guys
818
00:42:41,375 --> 00:42:43,709
were actually gonna make it
competitively.
819
00:42:43,792 --> 00:42:45,500
Rob Back then,
there was two things
820
00:42:45,583 --> 00:42:47,000
that were important to us.
821
00:42:47,830 --> 00:42:49,458
Getting a good section
in Taylor's movies,
822
00:42:49,542 --> 00:42:52,875
and making it
on the world tour.
823
00:42:52,959 --> 00:42:56,542
The world tour used to be
the top 44 surfers in the world
824
00:42:56,625 --> 00:42:59,917
competing through a series
of 10 to 12 events,
825
00:43:00,000 --> 00:43:01,625
all over the world,
826
00:43:01,709 --> 00:43:03,625
and only one guy
is crowned World Champion
827
00:43:03,709 --> 00:43:05,458
at the end of the year.
828
00:43:05,542 --> 00:43:08,500
The Australians were dominant,
like the Hawaiians in Hawaii.
829
00:43:08,583 --> 00:43:10,250
That's their zone.
830
00:43:13,500 --> 00:43:15,583
Well over 50% of guys on tour
831
00:43:15,667 --> 00:43:17,417
were from Australia.
832
00:43:17,500 --> 00:43:20,830
Australia and America
had a great rivalry going.
833
00:43:20,166 --> 00:43:23,500
When we drew those guys
in the heats, it made us try
that much harder.
834
00:43:23,583 --> 00:43:25,959
Whatever happens, I'm gonna get
a chance to beat him,
835
00:43:26,410 --> 00:43:28,875
and I'm just really looking forward
to that opportunity.
836
00:43:28,959 --> 00:43:30,917
The Australian guys
were so dominant at the time,
837
00:43:31,000 --> 00:43:33,375
so many world champions,
they were this old guard
838
00:43:33,458 --> 00:43:35,125
on the tour
that we all looked up to.
839
00:43:35,208 --> 00:43:37,792
I'd see these guys
I'd seen in the magazines.
840
00:43:37,875 --> 00:43:39,583
I was so star-struck.
841
00:43:39,667 --> 00:43:41,625
Then we'd get in heats with
them, and they were so willing
842
00:43:41,709 --> 00:43:43,417
to do anything it took
to beat us.
843
00:43:43,500 --> 00:43:45,750
And I mean anything.
844
00:43:45,834 --> 00:43:47,834
Paddle through the pack,
growl at everyone,
845
00:43:47,917 --> 00:43:49,583
give them stink-eye,
make sure
846
00:43:49,667 --> 00:43:51,125
that every good wave that comes
through, you're on it.
847
00:43:51,208 --> 00:43:52,500
You don't give a shit
about anyone else.
848
00:43:52,583 --> 00:43:53,875
It's a selfish sport--
849
00:43:53,959 --> 00:43:56,375
"Get out of my bloody way.
It's my day."
850
00:43:56,458 --> 00:43:58,959
It was like our generation
versus their generation,
851
00:43:59,410 --> 00:44:01,625
and those guy saw us
as a total threat.
852
00:44:01,709 --> 00:44:03,291
There was so much on the line.
853
00:44:03,375 --> 00:44:05,125
This is my career,
my lifestyle
854
00:44:05,208 --> 00:44:07,166
that's setting myself up
for the rest of my life,
855
00:44:07,250 --> 00:44:10,830
so I'm not gonna let
some little twerp
take it away from me.
856
00:44:10,166 --> 00:44:11,625
I had a heat
with Martin Potter,
857
00:44:11,709 --> 00:44:13,709
ended up winning
right at the end.
858
00:44:13,792 --> 00:44:16,583
He ran up the beach
and bashed his board
into a big fence there,
859
00:44:16,667 --> 00:44:19,125
ripped out all
the electrical cords,
throwing a fit.
860
00:44:19,208 --> 00:44:22,542
I was so stoked that
that was the reaction
to him losing.
861
00:44:22,625 --> 00:44:25,709
My first year on tour,
I took down Martin Potter.
862
00:44:25,792 --> 00:44:29,208
I remember hearing him yelling
on the beach.
863
00:44:29,291 --> 00:44:31,792
And I was just sitting
out in the water--
864
00:44:31,875 --> 00:44:33,875
giggling.
865
00:44:33,959 --> 00:44:36,834
My first win on tour
was against Gary Elkerton,
866
00:44:36,917 --> 00:44:38,375
and it was in France,
where he lived.
867
00:44:38,458 --> 00:44:40,208
It turned into
this big protest,
868
00:44:40,291 --> 00:44:41,875
his wife came
and rushed the stand,
869
00:44:41,959 --> 00:44:44,500
he starts throwing his board
and screaming at the judges.
870
00:44:44,583 --> 00:44:46,291
I thought it was great.
I loved it.
871
00:44:46,375 --> 00:44:48,625
I loved every second of it.
872
00:44:48,709 --> 00:44:51,291
The first time I ever
competed against Slater,
873
00:44:51,375 --> 00:44:53,208
before the contest,
Kelly's standing right there
874
00:44:53,291 --> 00:44:55,750
and he sort of puts his hand out
to say "Good luck,"
875
00:44:55,834 --> 00:44:59,417
and I slapped his hand away
and said, "Get the frick
out of my face, mate."
876
00:44:59,500 --> 00:45:02,750
But the whole surfing world
knew he was the messiah.
877
00:45:02,834 --> 00:45:05,750
It was like,
878
00:45:05,834 --> 00:45:10,125
it's not if he's gonna win a world title,
it's how many he's gonna win.
879
00:45:10,208 --> 00:45:13,875
Kelly was always by far
the best surfer in our group.
880
00:45:13,959 --> 00:45:15,542
No one disputed that.
881
00:45:15,625 --> 00:45:19,709
We were all rooting for him
to win the world title.
882
00:45:19,792 --> 00:45:23,625
In '91, Kelly finished 44th.
883
00:45:23,709 --> 00:45:25,709
And then that next year,
884
00:45:25,792 --> 00:45:27,458
he won the world title.
885
00:45:30,333 --> 00:45:35,830
We were just trippin'.
It was a victory for all of us.
886
00:45:35,166 --> 00:45:37,709
We were working as a unit.
887
00:45:37,792 --> 00:45:39,250
Our levels were all rising,
888
00:45:39,333 --> 00:45:41,709
and in the successive years
after, I won,
889
00:45:41,792 --> 00:45:44,125
'93, '94, '95.
890
00:45:44,208 --> 00:45:46,583
Basically all my friends
started winning events.
891
00:45:46,667 --> 00:45:47,959
Kelly Slater!
892
00:45:48,410 --> 00:45:50,417
I just needed one wave,
and thank God I got it.
893
00:45:50,500 --> 00:45:51,709
You seem to have found
894
00:45:51,792 --> 00:45:53,000
a new confidence from winning.
895
00:45:53,830 --> 00:45:54,625
Feels unreal.
896
00:45:54,709 --> 00:45:56,709
Taylor Knox,
taking home the gold...
897
00:45:56,792 --> 00:45:58,792
I think it's really
important for American surfing,
898
00:45:58,875 --> 00:46:00,709
because our level of surfing
has improved drastically
899
00:46:00,792 --> 00:46:04,375
compared with the Australians
over the last few years.
900
00:46:04,458 --> 00:46:06,750
Rob Machado celebrating...
901
00:46:06,834 --> 00:46:08,542
And the money goes
to Rob Machado
902
00:46:08,625 --> 00:46:11,417
as the crowd roars
its approval!
903
00:46:17,792 --> 00:46:19,875
I'd just like to thank
all the fans
904
00:46:19,959 --> 00:46:23,417
for coming out and supporting--
it's just a great feeling.
905
00:46:23,500 --> 00:46:25,834
Do you have any messages
to your mom or father or...?
906
00:46:25,917 --> 00:46:28,166
Yeah. I lo-- I lo--
I love 'em.
907
00:46:30,000 --> 00:46:31,250
Well, thank you
very much.
908
00:46:31,333 --> 00:46:32,709
Thanks.
909
00:46:32,792 --> 00:46:35,625
It was surreal.
910
00:46:35,709 --> 00:46:37,959
It wasn't a dream anymore.
911
00:46:40,830 --> 00:46:44,291
All of a sudden,
being a pro surfer was a reality.
912
00:46:44,375 --> 00:46:46,542
We were just
taking over the tour.
913
00:46:46,625 --> 00:46:49,542
Different lines being drawn...
914
00:46:49,625 --> 00:46:52,792
different boards being rode...
915
00:46:52,875 --> 00:46:55,917
more aerials, more tail slides,
916
00:46:56,000 --> 00:46:58,125
faster.
917
00:46:58,208 --> 00:47:00,291
The judges had to adapt.
918
00:47:00,375 --> 00:47:02,125
Everyone had to adapt.
919
00:47:04,542 --> 00:47:07,625
It was a different way
of surfing from what
was being done before,
920
00:47:07,709 --> 00:47:09,959
where everything was sort of
on the wave.
921
00:47:10,410 --> 00:47:14,208
OK, we've got that, but now we're
gonna start going above the lip.
922
00:47:15,959 --> 00:47:17,917
Kelly and I were
really working on
923
00:47:18,000 --> 00:47:19,375
the narrower, thinner boards,
924
00:47:19,458 --> 00:47:22,625
so they could more easily
be thrown into the air.
925
00:47:22,709 --> 00:47:26,542
I remember one time
Kelly came down the line,
surfing this wave,
926
00:47:26,625 --> 00:47:29,125
and flew over my head
doing a helicopter,
927
00:47:29,208 --> 00:47:31,375
and landed.
928
00:47:31,458 --> 00:47:33,000
And I went, "Oh, my gosh,
929
00:47:33,830 --> 00:47:34,375
things are really changing."
930
00:47:34,458 --> 00:47:37,542
Hey, bud, let's party.
931
00:47:37,625 --> 00:47:39,000
Back in the '70s and '80s,
932
00:47:39,830 --> 00:47:40,333
if you surfed, you were
a fuckin' loser,
933
00:47:40,417 --> 00:47:41,834
you were a hippie, a stoner.
934
00:47:41,917 --> 00:47:44,333
You didn't get respect
if you were a surfer.
935
00:47:44,417 --> 00:47:47,000
At that time,
there was a major drug culture
936
00:47:47,830 --> 00:47:48,834
within surfing as a whole,
937
00:47:48,917 --> 00:47:51,830
but in our group,
nobody was doing drugs,
938
00:47:51,166 --> 00:47:52,375
it was a clean lifestyle.
939
00:47:52,458 --> 00:47:53,458
I've been asked to talk about
940
00:47:53,542 --> 00:47:54,834
how bad drugs are.
941
00:47:54,917 --> 00:47:57,291
To us, it was a real sport.
942
00:47:57,375 --> 00:47:59,709
And that was the thing
that you could also package up
943
00:47:59,792 --> 00:48:02,166
and say, "These guys
are actually athletes,
944
00:48:02,250 --> 00:48:03,792
they're taking it
to this next level."
945
00:48:03,875 --> 00:48:05,333
♪ Hey! ♪
946
00:48:08,830 --> 00:48:10,375
Right before Taylor's movies
came out,
947
00:48:10,458 --> 00:48:12,375
there was a pretty big recession
in surfing,
948
00:48:12,458 --> 00:48:14,830
and then
the Momentum Generation
949
00:48:14,166 --> 00:48:16,959
put a whole bunch
of new energy into the sport.
950
00:48:17,410 --> 00:48:19,830
And surfing had a boom period.
951
00:48:19,166 --> 00:48:20,709
Surfing used to be
a subculture,
952
00:48:20,792 --> 00:48:22,291
then it became
a counterculture,
953
00:48:22,375 --> 00:48:23,917
and then it became
an action sport.
954
00:48:24,000 --> 00:48:25,750
- Jumped it...
- Beat it...
- Surfed it...
955
00:48:25,834 --> 00:48:27,375
You bring on the X Games,
956
00:48:27,458 --> 00:48:29,410
throw a little punk rock
in there,
957
00:48:29,125 --> 00:48:31,208
all of a sudden
it's on ESPN, ABC...
958
00:48:31,291 --> 00:48:33,375
MTV, youth movement,
959
00:48:33,458 --> 00:48:36,542
the industry changed,
magazines changed,
960
00:48:36,625 --> 00:48:37,875
fashion changed,
961
00:48:37,959 --> 00:48:40,208
sponsors were
popping up everywhere.
962
00:48:40,291 --> 00:48:42,417
The Momentum guys
just leapfrogged
963
00:48:42,500 --> 00:48:44,750
all the expectations,
all the boundaries.
964
00:48:44,834 --> 00:48:48,583
The surf world just went
180 degrees-- broop!
965
00:48:48,667 --> 00:48:50,208
All of a sudden,
these guys were it.
966
00:48:50,291 --> 00:48:52,375
Those magical years
967
00:48:52,458 --> 00:48:55,208
when you saw all of our names
growing together,
968
00:48:55,291 --> 00:48:59,417
Kelly paved the way,
because he was crossing over
into mainstream media.
969
00:48:59,500 --> 00:49:02,583
As embarrassed as Kelly is
by doing "Baywatch,"
970
00:49:02,667 --> 00:49:04,750
he went into how many
millions of homes?
971
00:49:04,834 --> 00:49:06,291
That turned a light on
for surfing,
972
00:49:06,375 --> 00:49:09,333
because you had
some average family in Kentucky
973
00:49:09,417 --> 00:49:11,709
turn on "Baywatch" and like,
"Who's this Kelly Slater guy?"
974
00:49:11,792 --> 00:49:13,667
"Oh, he surfs."
"What's surfing?"
975
00:49:13,750 --> 00:49:15,125
Fuckin' "Baywatch."
976
00:49:15,208 --> 00:49:17,830
I mean, everybody
made fun of him.
977
00:49:17,166 --> 00:49:19,750
It was unbelievable.
It was the corniest thing ever.
978
00:49:19,834 --> 00:49:21,417
I was really insecure
about it.
979
00:49:21,500 --> 00:49:23,410
I was like, "Fuck,
why did I do this thing?"
980
00:49:23,125 --> 00:49:25,250
The whole things was so
outrageous and ridiculous.
981
00:49:25,333 --> 00:49:28,125
We'd be surfing a place
where we wouldn't have leashes,
982
00:49:28,208 --> 00:49:29,625
right in front of a cliff,
'cause that's what you do.
983
00:49:29,709 --> 00:49:31,208
And we would lose our boards
984
00:49:31,291 --> 00:49:33,410
and it would just perfectly
go into this cave,
985
00:49:33,125 --> 00:49:34,458
which is what happens,
986
00:49:34,542 --> 00:49:36,959
and there would be
an octopus in there,
987
00:49:37,410 --> 00:49:38,583
which is, of course,
believable.
988
00:49:42,000 --> 00:49:43,959
I looked at the guy
who wrote that,
989
00:49:44,410 --> 00:49:47,792
I'm like, "You did not--
Did you write this?"
990
00:49:47,875 --> 00:49:49,542
The bottom line is,
991
00:49:49,625 --> 00:49:52,667
my boy was on
the hottest TV show around,
992
00:49:52,750 --> 00:49:55,250
hooked up with
the hottest woman on earth.
993
00:49:55,333 --> 00:49:57,625
Kelly Slater
has become the envy of guys
994
00:49:57,709 --> 00:50:00,792
the world over for snagging
the ultimate beach beauty,
Pamela Anderson.
995
00:50:00,875 --> 00:50:02,750
...Pamela Anderson,
supporting her latest beau,
996
00:50:02,834 --> 00:50:04,208
contestant Kelly Slater.
997
00:50:04,291 --> 00:50:06,333
But is it serious?
A bit too early to say.
998
00:50:06,417 --> 00:50:08,583
WoThey're both extraordinarily
attractive people.
999
00:50:08,667 --> 00:50:10,333
Slater's agent says
Anderson and Slater
1000
00:50:10,417 --> 00:50:12,917
are just very close friends.
1001
00:50:17,875 --> 00:50:20,500
They would hand out
Photo Slut of the Year award
1002
00:50:20,583 --> 00:50:23,166
to the guy that just
tried too hard.
1003
00:50:28,417 --> 00:50:29,834
'Cause Chesser would
make fun of you
1004
00:50:29,917 --> 00:50:31,500
if you got too many photos
in a magazine.
1005
00:50:31,583 --> 00:50:33,166
No photos, please.
1006
00:50:33,250 --> 00:50:34,875
Todd was like
the moral compass
1007
00:50:34,959 --> 00:50:37,830
defining what was cool
and not cool.
1008
00:50:37,166 --> 00:50:39,834
Listen here, Spielberg,
turn off the camera.
1009
00:50:39,917 --> 00:50:41,709
Chesser was the guy
that kept everybody honest,
1010
00:50:41,792 --> 00:50:44,667
kept everybody real
and humble.
1011
00:50:44,750 --> 00:50:46,625
If anybody got on
their high horse,
1012
00:50:46,709 --> 00:50:48,458
he would just level them.
1013
00:50:48,542 --> 00:50:50,410
I want to ask you
about your morals
1014
00:50:50,125 --> 00:50:53,333
and if you feel cheap
about using women for sex.
1015
00:50:53,417 --> 00:50:54,959
- No.
- No?
1016
00:50:55,410 --> 00:50:56,875
- Not at all.
- No remorse?
1017
00:50:56,959 --> 00:50:58,458
You ever puffed your chest out,
1018
00:50:58,542 --> 00:51:00,291
Todd would be the first one
to pop your bubble.
1019
00:51:02,830 --> 00:51:03,709
He was really a soulful guy.
1020
00:51:03,792 --> 00:51:07,542
He didn't seek out
the limelight.
1021
00:51:07,625 --> 00:51:10,208
"Don't just surf when
there's cameras on the beach,
1022
00:51:10,291 --> 00:51:11,583
like, who are you?"
1023
00:51:11,667 --> 00:51:13,583
Say hello to your family.
1024
00:51:13,667 --> 00:51:15,917
I'm putting music
over all this stuff.
1025
00:51:16,000 --> 00:51:19,250
To all the guys, Todd
came across as so macho,
1026
00:51:19,333 --> 00:51:21,875
but really, when it was
just me and him,
1027
00:51:21,959 --> 00:51:23,458
he was such a softie.
1028
00:51:25,709 --> 00:51:29,250
One night, Todd kept saying,
"You should go to
this one bar."
1029
00:51:29,333 --> 00:51:31,830
So me and all my friends
were there,
1030
00:51:31,166 --> 00:51:32,959
and all of a sudden,
the singer goes,
1031
00:51:33,410 --> 00:51:35,125
"We have a special guest
here tonight.
1032
00:51:35,208 --> 00:51:38,410
Mr. Todd Chesser, come up."
1033
00:51:38,125 --> 00:51:41,250
He has this white
'70s ruffled tuxedo on.
1034
00:51:41,333 --> 00:51:44,834
And he got down on one knee
and said,
1035
00:51:44,917 --> 00:51:49,125
"Will you marry me, honey baby?"
1036
00:51:49,208 --> 00:51:52,166
And the singer said,
"Now you've gotta answer."
1037
00:51:52,250 --> 00:51:53,625
And I said, "Yes!"
1038
00:51:53,709 --> 00:51:56,125
Ooh!
1039
00:51:58,417 --> 00:52:01,750
- Todd: How glad are we?
- So glad.
1040
00:52:01,834 --> 00:52:03,417
Everything was coming
into place.
1041
00:52:03,500 --> 00:52:05,750
He found the girl of his dreams,
he had a good sponsor,
1042
00:52:05,834 --> 00:52:07,875
everything was going
just terrifically.
1043
00:52:09,917 --> 00:52:11,834
Did I tell you
how lucky you are?
1044
00:52:11,917 --> 00:52:15,125
For Todd, it was the time
to finally grow up.
1045
00:52:15,208 --> 00:52:19,291
We were all so excited for him
to get married, the whole deal.
1046
00:52:19,375 --> 00:52:20,542
Good morning!
1047
00:52:20,625 --> 00:52:22,291
Where's the freakin' elephants?
1048
00:52:22,375 --> 00:52:25,250
He was just a good example
to remind us
1049
00:52:25,333 --> 00:52:28,333
to stay true to ourselves
and remember what's important.
1050
00:52:28,417 --> 00:52:30,917
He was the closest thing
to a soul surfer out of all us,
1051
00:52:31,000 --> 00:52:34,000
because he didn't care
about the accolades.
1052
00:52:34,830 --> 00:52:38,333
It's not about titles,
it's about being happy.
1053
00:52:40,208 --> 00:52:42,291
I mean, nothing was cooler
about our crew
1054
00:52:42,375 --> 00:52:44,208
than when Kelly won
his first world title,
1055
00:52:44,291 --> 00:52:46,417
we put that jerk
in a frickin' trash can
1056
00:52:46,500 --> 00:52:49,375
with a helmet and a blanket,
we pushed him down a hill.
1057
00:52:52,583 --> 00:52:55,333
He just ate crap
the whole way down.
1058
00:52:55,417 --> 00:52:57,834
Any other sport,
the Michael Jordon of that sport
1059
00:52:57,917 --> 00:53:00,667
is not rolling down a mountain
after his first world title.
1060
00:53:00,750 --> 00:53:02,500
It was crazy.
It was a crazy time.
1061
00:53:02,583 --> 00:53:05,875
I felt like all of my childhood
dreams came together
1062
00:53:05,959 --> 00:53:08,709
in this weird reality
where I was with my friends,
traveling around the world,
1063
00:53:08,792 --> 00:53:12,291
doing what I wanted to do
for a living.
1064
00:53:12,375 --> 00:53:16,583
The best feeling I had was,
I just belonged.
1065
00:53:16,667 --> 00:53:18,500
For the longest time
in my life,
1066
00:53:18,583 --> 00:53:20,959
I felt like the carrot
dangling in front of the horse,
1067
00:53:21,410 --> 00:53:23,208
where it was right in front
of me for so long
1068
00:53:23,291 --> 00:53:26,333
and I was like, "Oh,
I finally got the carrot."
1069
00:54:02,667 --> 00:54:03,709
Yes!
1070
00:54:05,830 --> 00:54:06,959
Yeah!
1071
00:54:13,625 --> 00:54:15,458
Well, you got one now.
1072
00:54:29,875 --> 00:54:31,830
Aaah!
1073
00:54:49,166 --> 00:54:51,333
Ohhh! Ohhh!
1074
00:54:53,166 --> 00:54:54,834
Oh ho! The boys are in town!
1075
00:55:00,208 --> 00:55:01,542
That was great.
1076
00:55:01,625 --> 00:55:03,208
Let's get outta here.
1077
00:55:08,166 --> 00:55:10,792
In the mid-'90s,
it was our show.
1078
00:55:10,875 --> 00:55:13,625
It was no longer
the new kids up against
1079
00:55:13,709 --> 00:55:17,750
the guys that were still
hanging around from the '80s.
1080
00:55:17,834 --> 00:55:20,542
We weren't looking up anymore.
We were looking at each other.
1081
00:55:26,250 --> 00:55:28,542
The only reason Shane's good
1082
00:55:28,625 --> 00:55:30,375
is because he hangs out with me.
1083
00:55:30,458 --> 00:55:31,834
It's the only reason.
1084
00:55:33,250 --> 00:55:34,166
What?!
1085
00:55:34,250 --> 00:55:36,166
'Cause I like beating Ross.
1086
00:55:36,250 --> 00:55:39,410
He hasn't beaten me
in a long time, and I'm
really proud of that.
1087
00:55:40,250 --> 00:55:41,792
Ross and Shane
1088
00:55:41,875 --> 00:55:44,000
had this
crazy rivalry at the time.
1089
00:55:44,830 --> 00:55:47,375
They're the same age,
they have the same sponsor--
1090
00:55:47,458 --> 00:55:49,625
they were competing
at every level.
1091
00:55:49,709 --> 00:55:52,208
- Get that right. Wanna go?
- I might do that.
1092
00:56:01,830 --> 00:56:04,792
I can still remember
Shane had a heat with Ross
1093
00:56:04,875 --> 00:56:06,667
at Reunion Island.
1094
00:56:06,750 --> 00:56:08,208
They were screaming
at each other,
1095
00:56:08,291 --> 00:56:10,000
"Fuck-you's,"
and we were just like,
1096
00:56:10,830 --> 00:56:12,375
"I'm gonna get
the hell out of here."
1097
00:56:17,250 --> 00:56:19,458
You know "There's two sides
to every story"? There's not.
1098
00:56:19,542 --> 00:56:23,250
This story, there's only one side
that's the truth.
1099
00:56:23,333 --> 00:56:25,458
We were staying together
at Reunion Island,
1100
00:56:25,542 --> 00:56:27,208
and then we were
in the same heat,
1101
00:56:27,291 --> 00:56:29,542
Shane versus Ross,
the next day,
1102
00:56:29,625 --> 00:56:31,834
and one board
that was super, super good.
1103
00:56:31,917 --> 00:56:34,125
I was so amped on the board,
I remember telling Ross
1104
00:56:34,208 --> 00:56:35,500
how good my board worked.
1105
00:56:35,583 --> 00:56:38,375
The next morning I wake up,
Ross is gone,
1106
00:56:38,458 --> 00:56:41,250
perfect fist-size hole
in my board.
1107
00:56:41,333 --> 00:56:44,750
And we're staying together
in the same room with
no one else around.
1108
00:56:44,834 --> 00:56:47,583
Like woke up
in the middle of the night
and punched his board?
1109
00:56:47,667 --> 00:56:49,792
I don't know, I must have
blocked that out.
1110
00:56:49,875 --> 00:56:53,333
I don't remember doing that.
That's crazy. What a snapper.
1111
00:56:53,417 --> 00:56:56,000
I grew up in Waialua,
can't help it, I'm part moke.
1112
00:56:56,830 --> 00:56:58,417
I don't remember doing that,
though. Is he sure?
1113
00:56:58,500 --> 00:57:01,458
I remember just going,
"Wow, I can't believe
he would do that!
1114
00:57:01,542 --> 00:57:03,250
So next level!"
1115
00:57:03,333 --> 00:57:05,417
But I beat him.
1116
00:57:06,750 --> 00:57:08,917
It felt so good.
1117
00:57:09,000 --> 00:57:11,792
Riding the board with
a hole in it and everything.
1118
00:57:13,583 --> 00:57:15,792
Well, of course Shane
would tell you that story,
1119
00:57:15,875 --> 00:57:18,125
because that's the one
where he smoked me.
1120
00:57:19,500 --> 00:57:21,830
But at the end of the day,
1121
00:57:21,166 --> 00:57:25,000
our rivalry wasn't as bad
as Rob and Kelly.
1122
00:57:25,830 --> 00:57:27,417
Even if you get behind,
you're just gonna quit?
1123
00:57:27,500 --> 00:57:29,417
Yeah. Yeah,
I like quitting.
1124
00:57:29,500 --> 00:57:31,250
It makes it easier,
ya know?
1125
00:57:31,333 --> 00:57:33,625
I could tell that about you.
You give up real easily.
1126
00:57:33,709 --> 00:57:35,458
Especially that one year, '95,
1127
00:57:35,542 --> 00:57:36,959
where everything came to a head,
1128
00:57:37,410 --> 00:57:38,417
there was conflict.
1129
00:57:38,500 --> 00:57:40,417
So that's when you see
this magnifying glass
1130
00:57:40,500 --> 00:57:44,709
on that raw motivation
for Kelly, almost like demons.
1131
00:57:46,250 --> 00:57:48,875
It gets put on a forefront
against Rob.
1132
00:57:48,959 --> 00:57:50,750
Feels really good
to be right here...
1133
00:57:50,834 --> 00:57:52,583
Rob Kelly won
the world title in '92.
1134
00:57:52,667 --> 00:57:56,458
And '94. The rest of our crew,
1135
00:57:56,542 --> 00:57:58,410
some of us had won events,
1136
00:57:58,125 --> 00:58:01,333
but no one had even come close
to winning a world title.
1137
00:58:01,417 --> 00:58:05,625
And then '95, I was having
a really good year.
1138
00:58:05,709 --> 00:58:09,333
I got a win in Japan,
Kelly won Indonesia.
1139
00:58:09,417 --> 00:58:11,542
I won an event in France...
1140
00:58:11,625 --> 00:58:13,959
It was just this
back-and-forth seesaw battle
1141
00:58:14,410 --> 00:58:15,583
throughout the year.
1142
00:58:15,667 --> 00:58:18,625
And then we came straight back
to the U.S. Open.
1143
00:58:18,709 --> 00:58:20,458
And me and Kelly
made the final,
1144
00:58:20,542 --> 00:58:23,583
and everybody was kind of
pullin' for me.
1145
00:58:25,750 --> 00:58:28,417
Kelly was just better than
everybody, almost all the time.
1146
00:58:28,500 --> 00:58:31,583
When he would win,
we wouldn't all run down
and cheer him at the beach,
1147
00:58:31,667 --> 00:58:33,709
'cause he was winning
every week. It was just like,
"Jeez, man."
1148
00:58:33,792 --> 00:58:36,333
What question do I get
asked the most?
1149
00:58:36,417 --> 00:58:39,830
Uh... "Where's Kelly Slater?"
1150
00:58:39,166 --> 00:58:41,000
He became, like, overly famous.
1151
00:58:41,830 --> 00:58:43,410
He was dating Pam,
he was on "Baywatch,"
1152
00:58:43,125 --> 00:58:44,792
everybody in the world
knew who he was.
1153
00:58:44,875 --> 00:58:47,000
People started wishing
the other guy would win.
1154
00:58:47,830 --> 00:58:49,834
And Rob was the only one
that really stood a chance.
1155
00:58:49,917 --> 00:58:52,000
You travel with Kelly,
you play music with him,
1156
00:58:52,830 --> 00:58:53,917
how's it gonna be
going against him?
1157
00:58:54,000 --> 00:58:56,000
You gotta do
what you gotta do to win.
1158
00:58:56,830 --> 00:58:58,875
When we're in the water,
he's just another guy
with a jersey on.
1159
00:58:58,959 --> 00:59:01,250
Massive crowd
here at Huntington...
1160
00:59:01,333 --> 00:59:04,500
Two of the greatest
small-wave surfers...
1161
00:59:08,000 --> 00:59:11,830
He's back in, gets a little
rebound off the...
1162
00:59:11,166 --> 00:59:12,750
Oh, big move!
1163
00:59:12,834 --> 00:59:15,792
Rob Machado takes off,
he's got unbelievable speed,
1164
00:59:15,875 --> 00:59:17,750
ripping it...
1165
00:59:17,834 --> 00:59:20,208
Rob Machado having
a great final here,
1166
00:59:20,291 --> 00:59:23,750
his final wave,
big snap right there...
1167
00:59:25,291 --> 00:59:27,834
Great win for Rob Machado...
1168
00:59:27,917 --> 00:59:30,166
That was a pretty
significant win for me.
1169
00:59:30,250 --> 00:59:31,917
Everybody just went nuts.
1170
00:59:32,000 --> 00:59:34,125
Rob being mobbed
as he comes to the sand
1171
00:59:34,208 --> 00:59:36,792
with this huge throng--
here they come.
1172
00:59:45,458 --> 00:59:48,667
Kelly was really super alpha,
1173
00:59:48,750 --> 00:59:50,417
super intense.
1174
00:59:52,208 --> 00:59:55,250
He did some small things
that year that upset Rob,
1175
00:59:55,333 --> 00:59:57,625
where he took one
of Rob's boards in France.
1176
00:59:57,709 --> 01:00:00,375
Maurice made me a couple
of boards, and they felt
terrible, both of 'em.
1177
01:00:00,458 --> 01:00:02,458
I went over to his house like,
"These boards feel like shit,
1178
01:00:02,542 --> 01:00:04,583
I don't wanna ride 'em.
You got anything else?"
1179
01:00:04,667 --> 01:00:07,667
And he goes, "I made three
for Rob. They're downstairs."
1180
01:00:07,750 --> 01:00:09,500
He goes, "You can't
ride three boards at once,
1181
01:00:09,583 --> 01:00:12,830
you might as well
grab one of those and try it."
1182
01:00:12,166 --> 01:00:15,166
Rob New surfboards
are pretty sacred.
1183
01:00:15,250 --> 01:00:17,792
I would have a really hard time
1184
01:00:17,875 --> 01:00:20,667
taking someone's
brand-new surfboard
that was made for them.
1185
01:00:20,750 --> 01:00:22,667
I don't care
if there's ten of 'em.
1186
01:00:24,208 --> 01:00:25,750
It turned really weird,
1187
01:00:25,834 --> 01:00:28,375
I put my traction pad on,
put my stickers on,
1188
01:00:28,458 --> 01:00:30,792
and Rob came over
and he's like,
1189
01:00:30,875 --> 01:00:32,959
"Man, fuckin' take
that shit off my board.
1190
01:00:33,410 --> 01:00:34,750
Give me that board back."
1191
01:00:34,834 --> 01:00:37,166
And he was kinda
just being a dick.
1192
01:00:37,250 --> 01:00:39,291
I was being a dick.
1193
01:00:39,375 --> 01:00:41,834
I thought he was
being a dick.
1194
01:00:41,917 --> 01:00:45,208
"That was mine,
and you took it and rode it,
1195
01:00:45,291 --> 01:00:48,125
and then put your stickers on it
and your traction pad.
1196
01:00:48,208 --> 01:00:50,417
And yeah, take it off.
1197
01:00:50,500 --> 01:00:54,667
You should be returning
that thing to me brand-new,
1198
01:00:54,750 --> 01:00:56,417
how it was."
1199
01:00:56,500 --> 01:00:57,792
So I was like, "Fuck him.
1200
01:00:57,875 --> 01:01:00,500
Take the traction off
your own board."
1201
01:01:00,583 --> 01:01:02,417
I wasn't doing this
to be a dick.
1202
01:01:02,500 --> 01:01:05,500
I was just trying to be nice
and take the stuff off,
1203
01:01:05,583 --> 01:01:09,830
but then afterwards
I realized he was really
being a jerk.
1204
01:01:09,166 --> 01:01:12,542
So then it kind of pissed me off.
1205
01:01:12,625 --> 01:01:16,410
After that, Rob and Kelly
didn't talk for a while,
1206
01:01:16,125 --> 01:01:18,625
and it got pretty weird.
1207
01:01:18,709 --> 01:01:22,333
You could just feel the tension
building up to the last contest.
1208
01:01:22,417 --> 01:01:24,667
The beach is divided
between Kelly Slater
1209
01:01:24,750 --> 01:01:26,333
and Rob Machado...
1210
01:01:26,417 --> 01:01:28,667
...these guys used to be
the best of friends...
1211
01:01:28,750 --> 01:01:31,917
We were going into
the Pipeline Masters in Hawaii,
1212
01:01:32,000 --> 01:01:34,333
and Sunny Garcia, from Hawaii,
1213
01:01:34,417 --> 01:01:36,208
has a commanding lead.
1214
01:01:36,291 --> 01:01:38,417
They need me to do shitty,
which isn't gonna happen,
1215
01:01:38,500 --> 01:01:40,917
and they need to do
extremely well,
1216
01:01:41,000 --> 01:01:42,875
which is gonna be hard.
1217
01:01:42,959 --> 01:01:44,875
So I'm pretty confident.
1218
01:01:44,959 --> 01:01:48,333
Sunny was gonna bring home
the first Hawaiian world title.
1219
01:01:49,583 --> 01:01:52,830
So many people
were pulling for Sunny.
1220
01:01:52,166 --> 01:01:54,000
And Occy felt that stress.
1221
01:01:54,830 --> 01:01:55,542
It was for his world title,
1222
01:01:55,625 --> 01:01:57,208
he just had to win that heat.
1223
01:01:57,291 --> 01:01:59,667
I was getting threats
from a few Hawaiians,
1224
01:01:59,750 --> 01:02:03,250
saying, "If you do
win this heat, you might
not be going home,"
1225
01:02:03,333 --> 01:02:05,667
and stuff like that--
and it was quite scary.
1226
01:02:05,750 --> 01:02:08,125
Masters champ up against
Hawaiian favorite...
1227
01:02:08,208 --> 01:02:10,208
But Sunny was having a shocker.
1228
01:02:10,291 --> 01:02:12,500
He broke his board,
had to go to the beach
to get another one.
1229
01:02:12,583 --> 01:02:15,625
And while that was happening,
I'm sitting out there
all by myself.
1230
01:02:15,709 --> 01:02:18,875
And a perfect wave came.
And what do I do? I gotta go.
1231
01:02:18,959 --> 01:02:21,000
I can't not go. So I went.
1232
01:02:21,830 --> 01:02:24,125
I got a huge barrel,
and spat out.
1233
01:02:25,625 --> 01:02:26,959
I'm like, "Oh, no."
1234
01:02:27,410 --> 01:02:29,458
Usually you'd be coming out
claiming it,
1235
01:02:29,542 --> 01:02:31,375
but I'm coming out like,
"Oh, no!"
1236
01:02:31,458 --> 01:02:33,250
Five minutes left,
I need one more wave.
1237
01:02:33,333 --> 01:02:36,166
Poor Mark, he's like,
"Take this wave!
1238
01:02:36,250 --> 01:02:37,834
Take any wave you want."
1239
01:02:39,709 --> 01:02:41,542
I couldn't make a wave,
1240
01:02:41,625 --> 01:02:44,208
and I knew right then
I just lost the world title.
1241
01:02:44,291 --> 01:02:47,250
And Occy ends up winning the heat.
1242
01:02:47,333 --> 01:02:49,625
Sunny Garcia is out of the contest.
1243
01:02:49,709 --> 01:02:51,333
I don't believe what I just saw.
1244
01:02:51,417 --> 01:02:53,208
And it was like,
"What just happened?"
1245
01:02:53,291 --> 01:02:56,333
The state of Hawaii
has gone silent.
1246
01:03:02,333 --> 01:03:03,834
And I was like,
"Wow, this is crazy."
1247
01:03:03,917 --> 01:03:06,333
It's almost like this big door
just opened up.
1248
01:03:06,417 --> 01:03:08,125
Time to get up.
1249
01:03:08,208 --> 01:03:10,125
It's the morning
of the quarterfinals.
1250
01:03:10,208 --> 01:03:13,417
- Are you ready to rock and roll?
- Yes.
1251
01:03:13,500 --> 01:03:17,458
Of course, me and Kelly
come up against each other
in the semis.
1252
01:03:17,542 --> 01:03:19,583
Number one and two,
Rob Machado and Kelly Slater.
1253
01:03:19,667 --> 01:03:21,834
Rob Machado, this guy's
been on fire.
1254
01:03:21,917 --> 01:03:24,458
Both of 'em can do any maneuver
you can dream of...
1255
01:03:24,542 --> 01:03:27,208
The public knows Rob
as being a cruisy,
1256
01:03:27,291 --> 01:03:28,709
mellow, stylish guy.
1257
01:03:28,792 --> 01:03:30,709
"Oh, Rob's like Zen master."
1258
01:03:30,792 --> 01:03:32,375
Not when we were growing up.
1259
01:03:32,458 --> 01:03:35,625
He was as cutthroat
as any of us.
1260
01:03:35,709 --> 01:03:37,458
Rob and I are just
really competitive
1261
01:03:37,542 --> 01:03:39,250
and I want to beat him
equally as bad.
1262
01:03:39,333 --> 01:03:41,291
By Rob making the semifinal,
1263
01:03:41,375 --> 01:03:43,291
he moved into first place,
he passed Sunny.
1264
01:03:43,375 --> 01:03:46,208
And I had to beat Rob,
and then win the final.
1265
01:03:46,291 --> 01:03:48,250
Kelly had to win the final.
1266
01:03:48,333 --> 01:03:52,375
But if I beat Kelly,
I win the world title.
1267
01:03:53,625 --> 01:03:54,875
...best season to date
1268
01:03:54,959 --> 01:03:56,875
now coming to a head
here today
1269
01:03:56,959 --> 01:03:58,709
up against Kelly Slater.
1270
01:04:00,834 --> 01:04:02,375
This one cloud blew through,
1271
01:04:02,458 --> 01:04:04,750
and it was just blue sky
all of a sudden.
1272
01:04:06,830 --> 01:04:09,000
The waves got really,
really good.
1273
01:04:11,250 --> 01:04:15,417
Back then it was your
best three waves in 30 minutes.
1274
01:04:17,583 --> 01:04:19,667
And I took up on a left...
1275
01:04:22,125 --> 01:04:23,709
I got a 10.
1276
01:04:23,792 --> 01:04:25,458
Now Slater's gonna answer...
1277
01:04:25,542 --> 01:04:27,667
And then Kelly
got really deep.
1278
01:04:29,250 --> 01:04:30,834
Kelly got a 10.
1279
01:04:30,917 --> 01:04:33,500
And now it's Rob's turn!
1280
01:04:33,583 --> 01:04:36,750
I mean, up until that point,
1281
01:04:36,834 --> 01:04:40,959
between us both,
it was the highest-scoring heat
1282
01:04:41,410 --> 01:04:43,000
in the history of pro surfing.
1283
01:04:43,830 --> 01:04:46,625
This is a barrel-fest
like nothing I've ever seen.
1284
01:04:46,709 --> 01:04:48,583
And in these conditions,
they're the two best
1285
01:04:48,667 --> 01:04:51,375
we could ever ask for,
Rob Machado and Kelly Slater.
1286
01:04:51,458 --> 01:04:53,750
It came down
to the end of the heat.
1287
01:04:53,834 --> 01:04:57,000
Kelly got a perfect left,
spit out a tube,
1288
01:04:57,830 --> 01:04:58,542
did this big roundhouse.
1289
01:04:58,625 --> 01:05:00,667
And I hear the crowd go crazy.
1290
01:05:00,750 --> 01:05:02,625
And there's another one,
1291
01:05:02,709 --> 01:05:05,333
just a perfect
10-foot A-frame.
1292
01:05:05,417 --> 01:05:07,375
I took off on the thing,
1293
01:05:07,458 --> 01:05:09,792
and I became like mesmerized.
1294
01:05:14,375 --> 01:05:20,830
And I was just in this...
bright blue cavern.
1295
01:05:27,208 --> 01:05:29,834
I come out, and there's Kelly
1296
01:05:29,917 --> 01:05:32,830
with his arms up, you know?
1297
01:05:32,166 --> 01:05:34,000
And, uh...
1298
01:05:36,417 --> 01:05:38,917
...I did kinda like
this half-cut back
1299
01:05:39,000 --> 01:05:42,166
and almost fell,
and then we high-fived.
1300
01:05:52,208 --> 01:05:55,830
I see Rob
flying out of the barrel,
1301
01:05:55,166 --> 01:05:58,830
and instead of kicking out
to get priority,
1302
01:05:58,166 --> 01:05:59,542
and he would have won,
1303
01:05:59,625 --> 01:06:03,458
just goes that extra further
and high-fives Kelly.
1304
01:06:03,542 --> 01:06:05,291
And maybe it was Kelly
doing that,
1305
01:06:05,375 --> 01:06:08,458
because he's there going,
"Please high-five me,
1306
01:06:08,542 --> 01:06:10,166
and then
I'm gonna get priority."
1307
01:06:10,250 --> 01:06:12,458
And the way Kelly thinks,
he was probably thinking that.
1308
01:06:12,542 --> 01:06:15,125
For sure.
That wasn't by accident.
1309
01:06:15,208 --> 01:06:16,834
Kelly doesn't do shit
by accident.
1310
01:06:16,917 --> 01:06:19,875
You don't become one of
the most dominant surfers
1311
01:06:19,959 --> 01:06:22,709
on the planet
by giving people high-fives.
1312
01:06:22,792 --> 01:06:25,959
I've never seen him
ever do that with anyone else.
1313
01:06:26,410 --> 01:06:28,709
I think a lot of people
read into that too much.
1314
01:06:28,792 --> 01:06:30,333
I think that was
totally genuine,
1315
01:06:30,417 --> 01:06:32,208
like his friend got spit
out of a barrel,
1316
01:06:32,291 --> 01:06:33,917
and they threw a high-five
at each other.
1317
01:06:34,000 --> 01:06:37,166
If you break down
the actual high-five,
1318
01:06:37,250 --> 01:06:40,000
Kelly's thinking, "Yes.
I still have this heat."
1319
01:06:40,830 --> 01:06:42,792
I guarantee
he calculated the numbers.
1320
01:06:42,875 --> 01:06:46,208
And Rob wasted a bit of time
there, definitely a mistake,
1321
01:06:46,291 --> 01:06:49,375
by giving the casual high-five
and then paddle back out,
1322
01:06:49,458 --> 01:06:52,667
and Kelly got the priority,
meaning he got the next wave.
1323
01:06:54,417 --> 01:06:57,000
I fuckin' would've
ran Kelly's fuckin' ass over.
1324
01:06:57,830 --> 01:06:59,125
I would've just got him
on interference--
1325
01:06:59,208 --> 01:07:01,125
even if I just clipped him
and fell.
1326
01:07:01,208 --> 01:07:03,410
You're fuckin' out there
to win the world title.
1327
01:07:03,125 --> 01:07:05,250
Fuckin' high-five you
when you got on the beach
1328
01:07:05,333 --> 01:07:07,458
after I fuckin' take you down.
1329
01:07:07,542 --> 01:07:09,375
Like, to me, that just--
1330
01:07:09,458 --> 01:07:11,583
I'm a competitor,
1331
01:07:11,667 --> 01:07:13,792
and I know that Kelly's
the same way.
1332
01:07:13,875 --> 01:07:19,834
He is the most calculated,
smartest, driven surfer ever.
1333
01:07:19,917 --> 01:07:21,875
There's a reason
for everything.
1334
01:07:21,959 --> 01:07:24,792
I would've just run him over,
'cause he was right in the way.
1335
01:07:24,875 --> 01:07:28,542
But Rob fell into the trap,
and Kelly won the world title--
1336
01:07:28,625 --> 01:07:30,410
yet again.
1337
01:07:45,959 --> 01:07:48,709
Am I gonna run someone over? No.
1338
01:07:48,792 --> 01:07:51,583
That's just not in my DNA.
1339
01:07:51,667 --> 01:07:54,166
Maybe that was the downfall
for me.
1340
01:07:54,250 --> 01:07:55,750
You know, I wasn't--
1341
01:07:55,834 --> 01:07:59,709
I didn't have
that cutthroat mentality.
1342
01:07:59,792 --> 01:08:02,166
Was the high-five
1343
01:08:02,250 --> 01:08:06,250
a tactical maneuver
on Kelly's part?
1344
01:08:08,410 --> 01:08:10,458
Kelly is so calculated.
1345
01:08:10,542 --> 01:08:14,333
Like, he knew exactly
what he needed to do.
1346
01:08:14,417 --> 01:08:18,830
I don't know. I'd love
to hear his side of the story.
1347
01:08:18,166 --> 01:08:20,410
It bums me out
more than anything
1348
01:08:20,125 --> 01:08:21,917
to hear that from people
who are my friends.
1349
01:08:22,000 --> 01:08:25,875
I think it's just outrageous.
I never thought of that at all.
1350
01:08:25,959 --> 01:08:29,417
And in my memories of
thinking about the heat,
1351
01:08:29,500 --> 01:08:32,830
there was never
any intention whatsoever
1352
01:08:32,166 --> 01:08:35,410
other than just to be stoked
and express that right then.
1353
01:08:35,125 --> 01:08:37,333
And I don't think it would
have mattered so much anyways,
1354
01:08:37,417 --> 01:08:39,959
'cause I was trying
to go right on every wave
and Rob was trying to go left,
1355
01:08:40,410 --> 01:08:42,667
so the priority
wouldn't even have mattered.
1356
01:08:45,830 --> 01:08:47,125
A little later, we took
like 30 friends out to dinner,
1357
01:08:47,208 --> 01:08:49,125
we were all celebrating,
and the hard thing was,
1358
01:08:49,208 --> 01:08:51,792
Rob was at the same restaurant
with his family,
1359
01:08:51,875 --> 01:08:54,291
and they were all
really somber.
1360
01:08:54,375 --> 01:08:57,208
It was a weird predicament.
1361
01:09:01,410 --> 01:09:03,709
That marked the beginning
of some dark years.
1362
01:09:11,542 --> 01:09:15,410
It was the morning
of February 13th.
1363
01:09:15,125 --> 01:09:17,583
Todd was out in the yard
getting ready to go surfing,
1364
01:09:17,667 --> 01:09:19,709
and I thought he had left.
1365
01:09:19,792 --> 01:09:21,542
Then I heard something,
1366
01:09:21,625 --> 01:09:25,166
and I peeked out the door
down the hallway
1367
01:09:25,250 --> 01:09:27,959
and I saw him...
standing there.
1368
01:09:28,410 --> 01:09:29,875
And he was just standing there.
1369
01:09:31,458 --> 01:09:35,625
He just said, "I love you,"
and I said, "I love you,"
1370
01:09:35,709 --> 01:09:38,166
and there's a part of me
1371
01:09:38,250 --> 01:09:41,792
that almost felt like
he knew something.
1372
01:09:41,875 --> 01:09:45,834
I don't know,
it was just the look on his face
that day, I'll never forget.
1373
01:09:45,917 --> 01:09:47,583
I can't remember what
I had for lunch yesterday,
1374
01:09:47,667 --> 01:09:49,834
but I will never forget the look
on his face that morning.
1375
01:10:03,875 --> 01:10:06,500
The call came in,
three surfers in distress...
1376
01:10:06,583 --> 01:10:10,166
Rescue crew
pulled 27-year-old Todd Chesser
1377
01:10:10,250 --> 01:10:12,667
from the water just south
of Waimea Bay.
1378
01:10:12,750 --> 01:10:14,875
Lifeguards found Todd's body
after a 40-minute search.
1379
01:10:14,959 --> 01:10:16,875
The shore break at Waimea
was critical at that time,
1380
01:10:16,959 --> 01:10:18,542
60-foot faces.
1381
01:10:18,625 --> 01:10:20,410
We were trying
to give him CPR,
1382
01:10:20,125 --> 01:10:22,410
but there was too much water.
1383
01:10:22,125 --> 01:10:24,834
Safety officials
closed all North Shore beaches.
1384
01:10:24,917 --> 01:10:27,542
...was set to he married
to Janet Rollins on August 2nd.
1385
01:10:27,625 --> 01:10:31,208
Come on, come on!
1386
01:10:37,959 --> 01:10:41,208
I got a call from
this girl at work,
1387
01:10:41,291 --> 01:10:44,542
saying that my son
was in trouble.
1388
01:10:44,625 --> 01:10:46,750
I jumped in my car
and was praying,
1389
01:10:46,834 --> 01:10:50,125
saying, "Don't let this happen,
don't let this be real."
1390
01:10:51,166 --> 01:10:53,410
So, yeah,
1391
01:10:53,125 --> 01:10:55,830
I went to the hospital,
1392
01:10:55,166 --> 01:10:57,417
and all the friends
were out there,
1393
01:10:57,500 --> 01:10:59,792
all the friends
were standing there.
1394
01:10:59,875 --> 01:11:02,667
And then...
1395
01:11:02,750 --> 01:11:07,417
the doctor told me,
"We think your son passed away
1396
01:11:07,500 --> 01:11:09,542
before the ambulance came."
1397
01:11:09,625 --> 01:11:12,500
And I said to the doctor,
1398
01:11:12,583 --> 01:11:16,250
"Well, that must be really hard
for you to tell people this,
1399
01:11:16,333 --> 01:11:18,500
that happened
to their loved one,
1400
01:11:18,583 --> 01:11:19,959
it must be really hard for you."
1401
01:11:20,410 --> 01:11:22,625
I was feeling that compassion
for that person
1402
01:11:22,709 --> 01:11:25,417
and trying not to think
about myself.
1403
01:11:25,500 --> 01:11:28,834
But yeah, it was
the worst day of my life.
1404
01:11:51,125 --> 01:11:54,709
I remember just looking
at grown men just bawling.
1405
01:11:59,917 --> 01:12:01,959
Rob Holy shit.
1406
01:12:02,410 --> 01:12:04,208
Todd's... gone.
1407
01:12:06,750 --> 01:12:10,500
It was just like
losing a family member.
1408
01:12:10,583 --> 01:12:12,959
He was the unkillable,
1409
01:12:13,410 --> 01:12:16,375
unfadeable, unscareable dude.
1410
01:12:16,458 --> 01:12:18,625
You can't kill him.
1411
01:12:18,709 --> 01:12:21,333
Certain guys just
couldn't be taken down.
1412
01:12:21,417 --> 01:12:25,208
It was like...
a giant was gone.
1413
01:12:25,291 --> 01:12:29,830
At first, it didn't--
it didn't make sense.
1414
01:12:29,166 --> 01:12:32,830
It didn't even
really register.
1415
01:12:32,166 --> 01:12:36,830
And then... it just hit me,
1416
01:12:36,166 --> 01:12:40,750
like someone had taken
a baseball bat...
1417
01:12:40,834 --> 01:12:43,500
and just swung it at my stomach
1418
01:12:43,583 --> 01:12:45,417
as hard as they could,
1419
01:12:45,500 --> 01:12:47,542
and wouldn't stop.
1420
01:12:50,830 --> 01:12:54,291
Todd was like... a mentor
for all us younger guys.
1421
01:12:54,375 --> 01:12:56,291
He was an incredible guy.
1422
01:12:56,375 --> 01:12:59,410
I just wanna say,
"Cheese, we'll miss you."
1423
01:12:59,125 --> 01:13:00,750
At his funeral, I'm sitting
1424
01:13:00,834 --> 01:13:02,917
next to his fiancée
and all these people,
1425
01:13:03,000 --> 01:13:07,166
and I just remember going,
"Fuck, this is just too much.
This is too much."
1426
01:13:07,250 --> 01:13:12,792
Everyone here was who
we wanted to be at our wedding.
1427
01:13:15,208 --> 01:13:19,667
I mean--
Fuck. It's hard, man.
1428
01:13:19,750 --> 01:13:23,830
I was so worried about Janet,
I was so worried about Jeannie.
1429
01:13:25,500 --> 01:13:29,410
I almost felt guilty
for being so sad,
1430
01:13:29,125 --> 01:13:30,917
because...
1431
01:13:33,458 --> 01:13:36,875
...she had lost so much already
in her life, ya know,
1432
01:13:36,959 --> 01:13:39,375
with Todd's dad passing away.
1433
01:13:39,458 --> 01:13:41,375
And Todd was like
her everything.
1434
01:13:41,458 --> 01:13:45,000
It just felt like too much
to have to deal with for her.
1435
01:13:47,625 --> 01:13:51,583
When I saw
what she was going through...
1436
01:13:51,667 --> 01:13:53,750
I realized what
I was supposed to do,
1437
01:13:53,834 --> 01:13:56,000
and it was: be there for her.
1438
01:13:56,830 --> 01:13:59,125
And I told my mom,
"I'm going to Fiji in six days.
1439
01:13:59,208 --> 01:14:01,291
I'm gonna take her."
1440
01:14:03,500 --> 01:14:05,333
We stayed in a little hut.
1441
01:14:05,417 --> 01:14:07,830
And she just would cry all night
1442
01:14:07,166 --> 01:14:11,500
and she just kept yelling at me,
"Why? Why is this happening?"
1443
01:14:11,583 --> 01:14:13,583
But I didn't know what to say.
1444
01:14:17,417 --> 01:14:20,709
On that trip,
she brought Todd's last board.
1445
01:14:20,792 --> 01:14:23,875
And one day, we paddle out
to a place called Restaurants.
1446
01:14:23,959 --> 01:14:26,410
It was completely flat.
1447
01:14:26,125 --> 01:14:27,500
And then, out of nowhere,
1448
01:14:27,583 --> 01:14:29,583
a 4-foot wave
comin' off the reef.
1449
01:14:29,667 --> 01:14:32,125
She catches it, gets barreled
on his board-- she rips--
1450
01:14:32,208 --> 01:14:34,458
going down the line-- whoo!
I get the next one.
1451
01:14:34,542 --> 01:14:36,709
We're flying. She's screaming
at me, I'm screaming at her.
1452
01:14:36,792 --> 01:14:38,792
We surfed for
an hour and a half.
1453
01:14:38,875 --> 01:14:42,417
We come to the beach,
and everybody that was
on the island was watching.
1454
01:14:42,500 --> 01:14:44,959
People came in
from Cloud Break, and I go,
"Was it bombing?"
1455
01:14:45,410 --> 01:14:46,542
They're all, "It was flat."
1456
01:14:46,625 --> 01:14:49,250
It gives me chicken skin,
because if you surf,
1457
01:14:49,333 --> 01:14:50,750
you know how rare that was.
1458
01:14:50,834 --> 01:14:52,291
And she was on his board,
1459
01:14:52,375 --> 01:14:55,542
and I swear it was like
he was saying "bye."
1460
01:14:55,625 --> 01:14:59,709
♪ Look for me in the tides ♪
1461
01:14:59,792 --> 01:15:01,834
♪ And it's all right ♪
1462
01:15:01,917 --> 01:15:03,667
She didn't sleep
for seven nights.
1463
01:15:03,750 --> 01:15:07,500
That night was the only night
she slept. The only night.
1464
01:15:09,000 --> 01:15:12,375
That day, Jeannie got
a goodbye hug from her son.
1465
01:15:12,458 --> 01:15:15,834
It was just one of the most
special moments of my life.
1466
01:15:18,208 --> 01:15:22,125
♪ Set me free,
in the tides ♪
1467
01:15:22,208 --> 01:15:25,417
♪ And fade away... ♪
1468
01:15:27,208 --> 01:15:29,166
I'll always
be thankful to Benji
1469
01:15:29,250 --> 01:15:30,625
for taking me on that trip,
1470
01:15:30,709 --> 01:15:33,542
because it was the thing
that I needed to heal.
1471
01:15:35,667 --> 01:15:39,834
But Benji had a really tough
time for a while after that.
1472
01:15:41,583 --> 01:15:44,208
After Chesser passed away,
1473
01:15:44,291 --> 01:15:46,333
I hated surfing.
1474
01:15:47,375 --> 01:15:49,583
It was tough.
1475
01:15:49,667 --> 01:15:50,875
So...
1476
01:15:52,625 --> 01:15:54,250
I got into drinking more.
1477
01:15:54,333 --> 01:15:57,410
Tons of cocaine and ecstasy
was our thing,
1478
01:15:57,125 --> 01:16:01,125
but every time I woke up,
I realized he was still gone.
1479
01:16:01,208 --> 01:16:05,458
I was definitely depressed,
I was suicidal...
1480
01:16:05,542 --> 01:16:09,830
so I checked into this place
called Inpatient whatever.
1481
01:16:09,166 --> 01:16:11,792
There was all these people
that were on smack, heroin,
1482
01:16:11,875 --> 01:16:14,291
all this stuff, I just needed
to talk to people,
1483
01:16:14,375 --> 01:16:16,625
I needed help, like,
I wanted answers.
1484
01:16:19,959 --> 01:16:24,208
Men have the hardest time
with feelings and emotion,
1485
01:16:24,291 --> 01:16:27,125
a lot of macho, lot of ego,
1486
01:16:27,208 --> 01:16:30,834
so you never really go,
"Let's talk about this."
1487
01:16:35,417 --> 01:16:37,830
In our group of friends,
1488
01:16:37,166 --> 01:16:39,250
I don't know if we ever
actually sat around and said,
1489
01:16:39,333 --> 01:16:41,709
"Hey, man,
how ya doin' with that?"
1490
01:16:41,792 --> 01:16:43,709
Shut up.
1491
01:16:43,792 --> 01:16:45,500
It was just something
I wanted to forget.
1492
01:16:45,583 --> 01:16:47,333
And I think that goes
for a lot of us.
1493
01:16:50,542 --> 01:16:54,709
We felt like Todd had been
taken from us personally.
1494
01:16:54,792 --> 01:16:58,583
Not just our group,
but us personally.
1495
01:16:58,667 --> 01:17:01,583
I felt like he had been
taken from me.
1496
01:17:01,667 --> 01:17:03,458
My way of dealing with it was,
1497
01:17:03,542 --> 01:17:06,125
I just felt more comfortable
by myself.
1498
01:17:07,750 --> 01:17:10,417
I just didn't want
to talk about it anymore.
1499
01:17:10,500 --> 01:17:13,208
Didn't want to
think about it anymore.
1500
01:17:15,542 --> 01:17:18,458
If we would've sat down
and just talked it out,
1501
01:17:18,542 --> 01:17:21,875
it would've helped a lot of us
process it better.
1502
01:17:21,959 --> 01:17:26,959
We were kind of worried
about showing weakness.
1503
01:17:27,410 --> 01:17:29,792
You don't want to show
your competitor weakness.
1504
01:17:33,875 --> 01:17:35,834
There was underlying tensions
from competing
1505
01:17:35,917 --> 01:17:37,625
on the world tour
against each other,
1506
01:17:37,709 --> 01:17:40,000
and people
were starting companies
1507
01:17:40,830 --> 01:17:42,125
that didn't involve everybody.
1508
01:17:42,208 --> 01:17:46,250
We were all angry
and looking for
someone to blame.
1509
01:17:46,333 --> 01:17:51,375
It was the start of a change
from "it's all fun and games"
1510
01:17:51,458 --> 01:17:53,667
to it all getting serious.
1511
01:17:56,792 --> 01:17:58,834
Money started coming into play,
1512
01:17:58,917 --> 01:18:01,000
managers came into play
during this time.
1513
01:18:01,830 --> 01:18:03,667
I had many arguments
with Kelly's manager
1514
01:18:03,750 --> 01:18:06,917
because he wanted money
to use him in my movies.
1515
01:18:08,667 --> 01:18:12,250
Soon after, Kelly's manager
was also Rob's manager
1516
01:18:12,333 --> 01:18:14,333
and Kalani's manager.
1517
01:18:14,417 --> 01:18:17,750
And that's when I said, "Fine,
I'm not gonna shoot 'em."
1518
01:18:21,208 --> 01:18:24,000
In February of 1997,
Todd Chesser died,
1519
01:18:24,830 --> 01:18:28,208
and then that same year
was the last time
we made a film together.
1520
01:18:32,542 --> 01:18:35,375
I remember Taylor telling us
that he was gonna be done,
1521
01:18:35,458 --> 01:18:36,709
and just a feeling of sadness,
1522
01:18:36,792 --> 01:18:38,875
like we were part of
something really special
1523
01:18:38,959 --> 01:18:40,917
and it was the end of an era.
1524
01:18:41,000 --> 01:18:44,208
The catalyst that
brought us together--
1525
01:18:44,291 --> 01:18:46,875
filming with Taylor--
that was gone.
1526
01:18:46,959 --> 01:18:49,410
And really,
people were just
1527
01:18:49,125 --> 01:18:51,750
trying to take care
of themselves,
1528
01:18:51,834 --> 01:18:53,875
looking after
their own interests.
1529
01:18:53,959 --> 01:18:56,830
People can get pretty ruthless
1530
01:18:56,166 --> 01:18:59,583
when money's on the line,
so I'm kinda putting the money
out of my head.
1531
01:18:59,667 --> 01:19:01,834
Chesser would
call you a sell-out
1532
01:19:01,917 --> 01:19:04,125
if you were becoming
too business-headed.
1533
01:19:04,208 --> 01:19:07,410
He made sure that you were
surfing for the right reasons
1534
01:19:07,125 --> 01:19:10,208
and you're part of the group
for the right reasons.
1535
01:19:10,291 --> 01:19:12,875
He enjoyed all of us
hanging out together
1536
01:19:12,959 --> 01:19:17,667
way more than making a dollar
or being famous.
1537
01:19:17,750 --> 01:19:20,500
Todd definitely never let
financial upside
1538
01:19:20,583 --> 01:19:22,834
influence our decision-making.
1539
01:19:24,830 --> 01:19:27,583
When Todd died,
that was gone.
1540
01:19:27,667 --> 01:19:31,830
Soon afterwards,
a lot of us started
going our own ways.
1541
01:19:36,125 --> 01:19:37,750
At some point you grow up
1542
01:19:37,834 --> 01:19:40,830
and stop living at your
friend's house in San Diego,
1543
01:19:40,166 --> 01:19:42,830
going to punk rock shows,
ya know?
1544
01:19:42,166 --> 01:19:44,208
At some point you start
to figure out, "Yeah,
1545
01:19:44,291 --> 01:19:46,458
we love all these guys,
but my life's this thing,
1546
01:19:46,542 --> 01:19:48,667
and not everyone
fits into this thing."
1547
01:19:50,500 --> 01:19:53,830
And for me,
the competition shifted
1548
01:19:53,166 --> 01:19:56,917
to maybe more important than
camaraderie in those years.
1549
01:19:59,208 --> 01:20:02,959
And that was my way to focus
my, I don't know, sadness
1550
01:20:03,410 --> 01:20:05,333
after Todd passed away.
1551
01:20:05,417 --> 01:20:08,830
Winning competitions
wouldn't address the pain,
1552
01:20:08,166 --> 01:20:11,583
it would just fuel
my direction.
1553
01:20:11,667 --> 01:20:14,917
It gave me a sense of pride
in myself.
1554
01:20:15,000 --> 01:20:17,542
People noticing you, and--
1555
01:20:17,625 --> 01:20:19,000
It makes you feel good,
1556
01:20:19,830 --> 01:20:21,542
however shallow or deep
that could be.
1557
01:20:23,542 --> 01:20:26,458
So I went on this absolute
tear, competitively.
1558
01:20:26,542 --> 01:20:30,792
I thought in my head,
"There's no reason
I can't win every contest."
1559
01:20:30,875 --> 01:20:32,625
I wanted it all, ya know?
1560
01:20:32,709 --> 01:20:35,208
I just wanted to win
absolutely everything.
1561
01:20:46,709 --> 01:20:49,125
- Whoo! Whoo!
- Williams: For Kelly,
1562
01:20:49,208 --> 01:20:50,959
whenever he had a breakup
1563
01:20:51,410 --> 01:20:52,709
or problems with family
or whatever,
1564
01:20:52,792 --> 01:20:54,208
he was able to channel that
1565
01:20:54,291 --> 01:20:57,500
into annihilating people
on the water.
1566
01:21:04,709 --> 01:21:07,750
We were all competitive,
but if you're gonna be
a world champion,
1567
01:21:07,834 --> 01:21:10,250
you gotta be a frickin' animal.
1568
01:21:13,667 --> 01:21:15,917
Rob Kelly had this idea
in his mind
1569
01:21:16,000 --> 01:21:19,709
that he wanted to break
Mark Richards' record
and win five in a row.
1570
01:21:19,792 --> 01:21:23,375
And we were the only ones
that were gonna get in his way.
1571
01:21:26,830 --> 01:21:29,166
Competing against your friend,
and holding 'em off waves
1572
01:21:29,250 --> 01:21:31,830
or keeping priority,
1573
01:21:31,166 --> 01:21:35,750
to me, it's against
the art of surfing.
1574
01:21:35,834 --> 01:21:38,709
Deep down inside, I probably
knew I wasn't ruthless enough
1575
01:21:38,792 --> 01:21:41,375
to win a world title,
because I'm not comfortable
1576
01:21:41,458 --> 01:21:44,875
with doing the dirty work
that needs to be done.
1577
01:21:44,959 --> 01:21:47,458
You bang boards, you try and
push each other out of position,
1578
01:21:47,542 --> 01:21:49,625
every now and again you get
the elbow in the head.
1579
01:21:49,709 --> 01:21:51,291
That's what we call "hassling."
1580
01:21:51,375 --> 01:21:53,830
There's a lot of guys
who are amazing surfers,
1581
01:21:53,166 --> 01:21:54,750
but such mellow characters
that they couldn't
1582
01:21:54,834 --> 01:21:56,417
bring themselves to do that,
1583
01:21:56,500 --> 01:21:58,410
and so their careers
are very short.
1584
01:22:00,208 --> 01:22:03,291
You have to be
a bit of an asshole to win.
1585
01:22:03,375 --> 01:22:06,250
And I didn't have
that killer instinct
in that way.
1586
01:22:06,333 --> 01:22:09,875
The last couple years on tour
I was like, "What am I doing?"
1587
01:22:09,959 --> 01:22:14,834
I was pretty quick to realize
that this isn't for me anymore.
1588
01:22:14,917 --> 01:22:16,583
When I was in heats,
1589
01:22:16,667 --> 01:22:18,667
I knew that I should
have been achieving more.
1590
01:22:18,750 --> 01:22:21,417
I was constantly
blaming the judges
for shitty results,
1591
01:22:21,500 --> 01:22:24,875
and then all of a sudden
breaking my foot,
it was like, "Pfft."
1592
01:22:24,959 --> 01:22:27,000
Just "I'm outta here."
1593
01:22:28,834 --> 01:22:31,542
The competitive thing
was a real cutthroat business.
1594
01:22:31,625 --> 01:22:34,667
You're only as good as your
rating at the end of the year.
1595
01:22:34,750 --> 01:22:39,417
I had to learn to be able
to sit on people with priority,
and use tactics.
1596
01:22:41,834 --> 01:22:45,208
And I felt like, "This is not
where I'm supposed to be."
1597
01:22:47,291 --> 01:22:49,333
When I was on tour,
everybody's talking,
1598
01:22:49,417 --> 01:22:51,458
"You're the next Kelly Slater"
and shit like that,
1599
01:22:51,542 --> 01:22:54,834
and I was like,
"I'm not that guy."
1600
01:22:54,917 --> 01:22:57,250
I wasn't ready to go
to those dark places
1601
01:22:57,333 --> 01:22:59,625
to win that world championship.
1602
01:22:59,709 --> 01:23:01,542
Nobody wants it like Kelly.
1603
01:23:01,625 --> 01:23:04,917
He's such a gnarly,
gnarly savage.
1604
01:23:05,000 --> 01:23:06,750
This controversial
play by Slater
1605
01:23:06,834 --> 01:23:09,583
forced an interference penalty
on Beschen, costing him...
1606
01:23:09,667 --> 01:23:11,709
Kelly paddles up
over Shane's back...
1607
01:23:11,792 --> 01:23:14,458
Surfers don't like it,
but it is allowed.
1608
01:23:14,542 --> 01:23:16,458
Almost like cheating
within the rules.
1609
01:23:16,542 --> 01:23:19,000
I despise people that
do that kind of stuff.
1610
01:23:19,830 --> 01:23:21,959
After the heat with Kelly
at the Pipe Masters in '95,
1611
01:23:22,410 --> 01:23:26,410
I started to struggle
with being as competitive.
1612
01:23:26,125 --> 01:23:27,917
I lost motivation,
1613
01:23:28,000 --> 01:23:31,417
and just got really salty
at the whole tour.
1614
01:23:31,500 --> 01:23:34,667
People got that vibe from me.
1615
01:23:34,750 --> 01:23:36,500
Then when I broke my hand,
1616
01:23:36,583 --> 01:23:40,830
all the surfers had this vote
for the injury wild cards.
1617
01:23:40,166 --> 01:23:41,834
If you have
a really bad injury
1618
01:23:41,917 --> 01:23:43,667
and you're able to compete
during the year,
1619
01:23:43,750 --> 01:23:45,542
then you can apply
for an injury wild card
1620
01:23:45,625 --> 01:23:47,667
to qualify for the next year
on the tour.
1621
01:23:47,750 --> 01:23:49,834
So I was applying for
an injury wild card,
1622
01:23:49,917 --> 01:23:51,959
Rob was applying
for an injury wild card.
1623
01:23:52,410 --> 01:23:54,375
It's super-awkward,
you go up and plead your case
1624
01:23:54,458 --> 01:23:56,500
to all the guys
who are on the tour,
1625
01:23:56,583 --> 01:23:58,333
and then everybody votes.
1626
01:23:59,834 --> 01:24:04,208
Here we are, voting between
Rob and Shane Dorian.
1627
01:24:04,291 --> 01:24:07,410
Two friends. But there's only
one guy's gonna get it.
1628
01:24:07,125 --> 01:24:10,375
The grumblings around town
were that Rob's over the tour.
1629
01:24:10,458 --> 01:24:12,917
He doesn't care about it
anymore.
1630
01:24:13,000 --> 01:24:15,834
So they voted for Shane.
1631
01:24:15,917 --> 01:24:17,875
Yeah.
1632
01:24:17,959 --> 01:24:19,625
I was done.
1633
01:24:19,709 --> 01:24:21,458
I'm off the tour.
1634
01:24:25,375 --> 01:24:28,830
Going through the transition
of being a professional surfer
1635
01:24:28,166 --> 01:24:30,250
to what's your next chapter
in life,
1636
01:24:30,333 --> 01:24:33,542
there's no books out there
to tell you how to do it.
1637
01:24:33,625 --> 01:24:35,583
When it happened to me,
1638
01:24:35,667 --> 01:24:37,875
I went from a very busy life
and busy schedule
1639
01:24:37,959 --> 01:24:41,830
to all of a sudden
grinding to a halt
and being at home
1640
01:24:41,166 --> 01:24:43,291
and just listening
to the quiet.
1641
01:24:44,709 --> 01:24:47,410
It started to turn very dark,
1642
01:24:47,125 --> 01:24:48,750
and I became depressed.
1643
01:24:51,333 --> 01:24:53,125
After I quit the tour,
1644
01:24:53,208 --> 01:24:55,792
I end up working
for a biotech company,
1645
01:24:55,875 --> 01:24:58,625
helping for marketing
in trade shows.
1646
01:24:58,709 --> 01:25:02,166
Wearing a suit and tie and shit
every day...
1647
01:25:02,250 --> 01:25:04,542
behind a desk.
1648
01:25:04,625 --> 01:25:06,750
So I was like,
"This is heavy, like--
1649
01:25:06,834 --> 01:25:09,458
like, "What am I doing?"
1650
01:25:11,333 --> 01:25:13,625
Rob After I was voted off the tour,
1651
01:25:13,709 --> 01:25:16,250
my sponsor at the time
went bankrupt.
1652
01:25:16,333 --> 01:25:18,917
I thought it was
the end of the world.
1653
01:25:19,000 --> 01:25:22,625
I'm not on tour,
I don't have a sponsor.
1654
01:25:22,709 --> 01:25:24,792
Holy crap.
What am I gonna do?
1655
01:25:32,834 --> 01:25:36,458
After Rob got off tour,
1656
01:25:36,542 --> 01:25:38,375
he was a broken man.
1657
01:25:38,458 --> 01:25:41,750
A couple years later
he came to Bali
1658
01:25:41,834 --> 01:25:44,830
and lived in my house
for six months,
1659
01:25:44,166 --> 01:25:45,834
being really negative.
1660
01:25:45,917 --> 01:25:49,583
And so we came up with a movie
that we could do together
1661
01:25:49,667 --> 01:25:52,375
to help get him back
in a positive zone.
1662
01:25:58,792 --> 01:26:02,125
These kids here
play this game with rocks.
1663
01:26:02,208 --> 01:26:03,667
They throw one up in the air,
1664
01:26:03,750 --> 01:26:06,959
they pick up the other ones
before it falls.
1665
01:26:08,625 --> 01:26:12,542
I'm not really sure
how you win...
1666
01:26:12,625 --> 01:26:14,750
but maybe you don't.
1667
01:26:16,458 --> 01:26:19,125
Maybe you just play.
1668
01:26:19,208 --> 01:26:21,792
At the start of it,
he was in a really bad place,
1669
01:26:21,875 --> 01:26:24,625
and at the end of it
he was the old Rob again.
1670
01:26:29,291 --> 01:26:31,333
It was just like old times.
1671
01:26:31,417 --> 01:26:34,333
But now he was
reinventing himself
1672
01:26:34,417 --> 01:26:35,875
and becoming a free surfer,
1673
01:26:35,959 --> 01:26:39,166
trying to make a living
on just sponsor money
1674
01:26:39,250 --> 01:26:42,750
without the need to be
competing on the world tour.
1675
01:26:42,834 --> 01:26:45,333
And "The Drifter" helped
with his sponsorships
1676
01:26:45,417 --> 01:26:49,333
so that he could
actually go on trips
and make surf movies.
1677
01:26:49,417 --> 01:26:51,333
Taylor Steele's responsible
1678
01:26:51,417 --> 01:26:54,917
for this new phase of my life
and my career.
1679
01:26:56,000 --> 01:26:58,291
I'm beyond grateful.
1680
01:26:58,375 --> 01:27:00,750
He revived me.
1681
01:27:03,208 --> 01:27:06,458
At the time, if you
stopped being on the tour,
1682
01:27:06,542 --> 01:27:08,542
you vanished into thin air.
1683
01:27:08,625 --> 01:27:10,875
That was it for you.
1684
01:27:10,959 --> 01:27:14,830
Rob was the first person
who ever left the tour
1685
01:27:14,166 --> 01:27:16,542
who had success immediately.
1686
01:27:16,625 --> 01:27:19,625
So I went to my sponsors
and said,
1687
01:27:19,709 --> 01:27:22,667
"Rob's left the tour,
and look at him."
1688
01:27:22,750 --> 01:27:25,875
And I quit the tour
with the intention
1689
01:27:25,959 --> 01:27:27,667
to surf really big waves,
1690
01:27:27,750 --> 01:27:29,542
and there was definitely
a part of that
1691
01:27:29,625 --> 01:27:32,375
that had to do with
doing it for Todd, too.
1692
01:27:36,709 --> 01:27:40,830
On a subconscious level,
I felt like I needed
to surf big waves
1693
01:27:40,166 --> 01:27:42,583
so that Todd would be proud
of me, even when he was gone.
1694
01:27:43,834 --> 01:27:46,625
Catch it, catch it! Whoo!
1695
01:27:46,709 --> 01:27:49,417
Whoo-hoo-hoo-hoo-hoo!
1696
01:28:03,500 --> 01:28:07,500
Shane Dorian, the greatest
big wave surfer of all time--
don't think you can debate that.
1697
01:28:09,830 --> 01:28:10,875
Shane has really focused on
1698
01:28:10,959 --> 01:28:13,375
the traditional
big-wave riding approach,
1699
01:28:13,458 --> 01:28:16,830
and that's to paddle in
with your bare arms
1700
01:28:16,166 --> 01:28:19,417
into a 60-foot wave
and get barreled.
1701
01:28:19,500 --> 01:28:22,875
For some people, it's getting
to the top of Everest--
1702
01:28:22,959 --> 01:28:25,458
for me, it's big waves.
1703
01:28:25,542 --> 01:28:28,792
The ocean is throwing
everything at you that it can,
1704
01:28:28,875 --> 01:28:31,125
and in that fleeting moment,
you feel like
1705
01:28:31,208 --> 01:28:33,625
every single experience
in your whole surfing life
1706
01:28:33,709 --> 01:28:36,959
comes together for you
to ride that wave
absolutely perfectly.
1707
01:28:37,410 --> 01:28:39,250
That's happened maybe
three times in my life.
1708
01:28:39,333 --> 01:28:41,500
That's what keeps me
coming back.
1709
01:28:43,250 --> 01:28:46,830
Rob leaving and having success
definitely inspired me
1710
01:28:46,166 --> 01:28:48,410
to do what
I really wanted to do.
1711
01:28:50,625 --> 01:28:52,417
Rob At that time in my life,
1712
01:28:52,500 --> 01:28:54,917
I was traveling
around the world, surfing,
1713
01:28:55,000 --> 01:28:58,375
and I remember at one point
I flew to Australia,
1714
01:28:58,458 --> 01:29:00,333
I walked into this restaurant,
1715
01:29:00,417 --> 01:29:03,500
and I looked over
and Kelly was sitting
in the corner by himself.
1716
01:29:03,583 --> 01:29:08,667
And he was pale, and he looked
ten pounds lighter,
1717
01:29:08,750 --> 01:29:12,583
like in the darkest place.
1718
01:29:12,667 --> 01:29:15,625
The contest was meant to start
the next day,
1719
01:29:15,709 --> 01:29:19,458
but I remember him telling me,
"I don't want to surf
right now."
1720
01:29:19,542 --> 01:29:22,125
And I was like...
1721
01:29:22,208 --> 01:29:24,500
"Don't. Go home...
1722
01:29:24,583 --> 01:29:27,250
and fix whatever
you need to fix."
1723
01:29:30,750 --> 01:29:34,417
He withdrew from the contest
and got on a plane and left.
1724
01:29:40,830 --> 01:29:43,166
Through my most competitive
and passionate years,
1725
01:29:43,250 --> 01:29:45,792
I had these ultimate highs.
1726
01:29:45,875 --> 01:29:48,542
But there was no way
to have those
1727
01:29:48,625 --> 01:29:52,959
without having these lows
that other people
can't even understand.
1728
01:29:55,375 --> 01:29:57,542
I went through
a pretty gnarly depression
1729
01:29:57,625 --> 01:30:00,417
that I think a lot
of my friends weren't aware of.
1730
01:30:02,625 --> 01:30:05,542
And then after I won
my sixth world title
1731
01:30:05,625 --> 01:30:08,830
and beat Mark Richards' record,
1732
01:30:08,166 --> 01:30:11,792
I just literally broke down
and started crying.
1733
01:30:13,959 --> 01:30:15,917
I had a real epiphany.
1734
01:30:16,000 --> 01:30:18,291
That competitiveness
was taking a toll on me,
1735
01:30:18,375 --> 01:30:21,830
it was really sapping me
of enjoying what I was doing
1736
01:30:21,166 --> 01:30:24,125
and detracting
from my friendships.
1737
01:30:24,208 --> 01:30:29,875
And then my mother called me
and said that my dad had cancer.
1738
01:30:29,959 --> 01:30:32,166
And that was the breaking point
right there.
1739
01:30:32,250 --> 01:30:33,917
Love you too, Mom.
1740
01:30:34,959 --> 01:30:36,830
I had a few nights
1741
01:30:36,166 --> 01:30:37,625
I literally
cried myself to sleep
1742
01:30:37,709 --> 01:30:40,667
because I was so angry
and confused about my dad.
1743
01:30:43,375 --> 01:30:45,709
Like, why would my dad
drink so much
1744
01:30:45,792 --> 01:30:47,834
and cheat on my mom so much?
1745
01:30:47,917 --> 01:30:50,458
And I don't think my father
1746
01:30:50,542 --> 01:30:53,959
came to one world tour event
I ever surfed.
1747
01:30:54,410 --> 01:30:59,208
But then he came to Hawaii
for the Pipe Masters
when he was dying.
1748
01:30:59,291 --> 01:31:01,583
I remember surfing the finals,
and he was crying.
1749
01:31:01,667 --> 01:31:03,250
I said,
"What are you crying for?"
1750
01:31:03,333 --> 01:31:05,830
And he's just like,
"Man, I'm so proud of you."
1751
01:31:05,166 --> 01:31:06,834
I'm like, "Sorry I didn't win.
1752
01:31:06,917 --> 01:31:08,458
I really wanted to win
for you, Dad."
1753
01:31:08,542 --> 01:31:11,458
He's like, "No, you won.
Don't worry about that.
1754
01:31:11,542 --> 01:31:13,542
I'm just so proud of you."
1755
01:31:16,375 --> 01:31:18,291
It was just tough, you know,
1756
01:31:18,375 --> 01:31:20,875
my dad's dying of cancer and...
1757
01:31:22,410 --> 01:31:27,166
uh... can barely
take care of himself,
1758
01:31:27,250 --> 01:31:30,667
and Ross had said,
"Come sit at the house, and..."
1759
01:31:31,834 --> 01:31:33,875
it's, uh...
1760
01:31:37,375 --> 01:31:41,166
I don't think I've ever shown him
a real appreciation for that.
1761
01:31:44,667 --> 01:31:46,667
After his dad died,
1762
01:31:46,750 --> 01:31:48,667
it was quite beautiful
1763
01:31:48,750 --> 01:31:50,625
when Kelly reached out
to a lot of us
1764
01:31:50,709 --> 01:31:53,834
and had real, sincere
conversations with us all.
1765
01:31:55,375 --> 01:32:00,166
I had never seen him
so stripped bare emotionally.
1766
01:32:02,458 --> 01:32:05,458
I remember Kelly and I
got together--
1767
01:32:05,542 --> 01:32:08,125
it was like a full
therapy session.
1768
01:32:09,500 --> 01:32:12,410
We just talked about memories
1769
01:32:12,125 --> 01:32:14,417
and good times and...
1770
01:32:14,500 --> 01:32:19,834
it was so refreshing
to be able to just be friends.
1771
01:32:23,830 --> 01:32:25,709
My father was super abusive.
1772
01:32:25,792 --> 01:32:28,667
That was the reason I went
to rehab, a hundred percent.
1773
01:32:28,750 --> 01:32:30,583
A lot of people
went the other way,
1774
01:32:30,667 --> 01:32:33,709
but Kelly stayed there for
30 days just to hang out with me.
1775
01:32:35,375 --> 01:32:37,542
Kelly worked on
all his stuff
1776
01:32:37,625 --> 01:32:39,417
before I went through mine,
1777
01:32:39,500 --> 01:32:42,709
so when I went through mine,
he took care of me.
1778
01:32:42,792 --> 01:32:46,000
We would have these talks
for hours at night
1779
01:32:46,830 --> 01:32:50,208
about life, fathers--
"Why? Why am I feeling this?"
1780
01:32:50,291 --> 01:32:53,250
And Kelly taught me
hanging onto animosity
1781
01:32:53,333 --> 01:32:57,458
is only ruining my life--
it's not ruining his life.
1782
01:32:57,542 --> 01:32:59,959
So I made amends with my dad
and I stopped doing drugs,
1783
01:33:00,410 --> 01:33:02,208
all at once.
1784
01:33:05,000 --> 01:33:09,250
Every situation in your life,
you have your pride and ego
or you have love,
1785
01:33:09,333 --> 01:33:11,709
and if you choose this,
it's always gonna be bad,
1786
01:33:11,792 --> 01:33:15,458
and if you choose this,
it's always gonna be good.
1787
01:33:15,542 --> 01:33:18,917
I learned all that from my
smartass fuckin' Slater friend.
1788
01:33:19,000 --> 01:33:23,625
And I couldn't--
I couldn't thank him enough.
1789
01:33:25,959 --> 01:33:29,458
Everyone in the world
is fighting the same battle.
1790
01:33:29,542 --> 01:33:31,410
People are all suffering from
1791
01:33:31,125 --> 01:33:34,000
a lack of connecting with love
with people around us.
1792
01:33:35,667 --> 01:33:37,542
Personally,
I had to wake up to myself
1793
01:33:37,625 --> 01:33:39,625
and see that
who I thought I was
1794
01:33:39,709 --> 01:33:42,250
maybe wasn't all
I was cracked up to be.
1795
01:33:44,000 --> 01:33:46,750
Kelly kind of did
lose the plot a little bit,
1796
01:33:46,834 --> 01:33:49,375
but he came back
in the biggest way ever.
1797
01:33:49,458 --> 01:33:51,792
It's pretty neat
to see our clique,
1798
01:33:51,875 --> 01:33:54,208
how we bring people
back from the dead.
1799
01:33:56,583 --> 01:33:59,000
When I was working
for the biotech company,
1800
01:33:59,830 --> 01:34:01,583
it was just
tearing me up inside.
1801
01:34:01,667 --> 01:34:06,291
I definitely fit a wetsuit vibe
more than a suit-suit vibe.
1802
01:34:06,375 --> 01:34:10,625
And I was really lucky that
Benji, Kelly, Rob, and Ross
1803
01:34:10,709 --> 01:34:13,125
helped me get
all my sponsors back.
1804
01:34:13,208 --> 01:34:15,830
They made all the calls
behind the scenes
1805
01:34:15,166 --> 01:34:16,583
that I only heard about
afterwards.
1806
01:34:16,667 --> 01:34:19,542
"Hey, you know what?
So-and-so called me.
1807
01:34:19,625 --> 01:34:22,410
You got some pretty heavy
friends in high places."
1808
01:34:22,125 --> 01:34:24,125
I love Kalani,
1809
01:34:24,208 --> 01:34:28,125
so I might've had a conversation
here or there.
1810
01:34:28,208 --> 01:34:30,792
I did. I helped him a little
bit get in the door.
1811
01:34:30,875 --> 01:34:33,375
I mean, it's Kalani Robb.
He's way better than me!
1812
01:34:33,458 --> 01:34:37,830
And I remember going,
"You should have the pay check,
not me. This is ridiculous."
1813
01:34:38,750 --> 01:34:41,375
I made a phone call,
and I just said,
1814
01:34:41,458 --> 01:34:42,917
"Let's sponsor Kalani."
1815
01:34:43,000 --> 01:34:46,917
He's just too talented
to be behind a desk.
1816
01:34:53,830 --> 01:34:57,250
As a kid,
whatever I dreamed to be,
1817
01:34:57,333 --> 01:34:59,792
I've so outdone that.
1818
01:34:59,875 --> 01:35:01,917
And the only reason, truly,
1819
01:35:02,000 --> 01:35:03,542
why I'm still here doing anything
1820
01:35:03,625 --> 01:35:06,375
is 'cause of my friends.
for sure.
1821
01:35:06,458 --> 01:35:08,250
I wouldn't be here
without them.
1822
01:35:12,830 --> 01:35:14,834
A few guys
should have turned out bad
1823
01:35:14,917 --> 01:35:17,410
considering the upbringing
they had.
1824
01:35:17,125 --> 01:35:20,208
But the group,
and having that support around,
1825
01:35:20,291 --> 01:35:22,917
guys saying,
"Hey, don't do that shit,"
1826
01:35:23,000 --> 01:35:24,458
kind of slapped
some guys around
1827
01:35:24,542 --> 01:35:27,959
that could have
gone the wrong way.
1828
01:35:28,410 --> 01:35:29,959
I mean, I was no exception.
1829
01:35:34,458 --> 01:35:37,333
I was on the world tour
for 20 years...
1830
01:35:37,417 --> 01:35:39,583
and I could not
1831
01:35:39,667 --> 01:35:41,834
get over that hump of...
1832
01:35:41,917 --> 01:35:43,625
"I didn't win."
1833
01:35:49,917 --> 01:35:51,792
Taylor took himself so serious.
1834
01:35:51,875 --> 01:35:54,750
When he would not win
world titles,
1835
01:35:54,834 --> 01:35:58,583
just to watch how it was
eating away at the guy?
1836
01:35:58,667 --> 01:36:00,410
I couldn't be around him,
1837
01:36:00,125 --> 01:36:02,417
because I'm so opposite
of Taylor.
1838
01:36:02,500 --> 01:36:03,959
And then one day
1839
01:36:04,410 --> 01:36:05,917
he finally just let it go.
1840
01:36:06,000 --> 01:36:09,333
"I'm never gonna win
a world title. I'm done."
1841
01:36:09,417 --> 01:36:12,166
And then he can actually live.
1842
01:36:13,542 --> 01:36:15,417
My friends helped me realize
1843
01:36:15,500 --> 01:36:18,125
surfing doesn't
define me as a person.
1844
01:36:19,709 --> 01:36:21,583
There's what you do,
and then there's who you are,
1845
01:36:21,667 --> 01:36:25,750
and that's the difference
that I didn't know back then.
1846
01:36:25,834 --> 01:36:29,500
I got a little bit of
Benji blood injected in me.
1847
01:36:29,583 --> 01:36:32,500
And I got more happy
just being who I am.
1848
01:36:41,750 --> 01:36:44,625
It's an emotional
roller-coaster, this career.
1849
01:36:44,709 --> 01:36:46,709
You lose more than you win.
1850
01:36:46,792 --> 01:36:50,291
But it's all about
the state of mind you're in.
1851
01:36:52,291 --> 01:36:54,417
'Cause I've seen guys win
contests and not enjoy it,
1852
01:36:54,500 --> 01:36:56,792
and I've seen guys get third
and were ecstatic.
1853
01:36:56,875 --> 01:36:58,542
So who won?
1854
01:36:58,625 --> 01:37:01,709
To me it's the one
having the most fun.
1855
01:37:03,291 --> 01:37:06,000
And that what I loved
about Todd.
1856
01:37:06,830 --> 01:37:08,458
It was about surfing
1857
01:37:08,542 --> 01:37:10,875
for the pure love of surfing.
1858
01:37:14,166 --> 01:37:17,291
People say that Taylor and I
paved the way
1859
01:37:17,375 --> 01:37:19,583
for the professional
free surfer.
1860
01:37:19,667 --> 01:37:24,834
But honestly, to me,
Todd was the original free surfer.
1861
01:37:30,458 --> 01:37:32,333
When I look back at it now,
1862
01:37:32,417 --> 01:37:34,458
each one of us
has kind of taken
1863
01:37:34,542 --> 01:37:37,417
a part of Todd and his legacy.
1864
01:37:48,834 --> 01:37:50,667
It was Shane becoming
1865
01:37:50,750 --> 01:37:54,208
the best big wave surfer
in the world,
1866
01:37:54,291 --> 01:37:56,667
Kelly reconnecting
the whole group,
1867
01:37:56,750 --> 01:38:00,542
being that catalyst that
brought us all back together.
1868
01:38:00,625 --> 01:38:01,959
Christmas '14.
1869
01:38:02,410 --> 01:38:03,333
I was like, "I'd love
1870
01:38:03,417 --> 01:38:05,583
to do something
for all my friends."
1871
01:38:05,667 --> 01:38:08,166
I just sent this message out,
I just said,
1872
01:38:08,250 --> 01:38:10,834
"Even though we don't see each
other, I love all you fuckers."
1873
01:38:10,917 --> 01:38:13,125
Ironically, Kelly's
always been the one
1874
01:38:13,208 --> 01:38:15,410
that was crawling
into his own shell,
1875
01:38:15,125 --> 01:38:17,291
but he was the one
that created the text thread
1876
01:38:17,375 --> 01:38:19,834
that's kind of grown
into this wonderful thing
1877
01:38:19,917 --> 01:38:22,917
where we all
keep in touch daily.
1878
01:38:23,000 --> 01:38:24,500
It really shows
1879
01:38:24,583 --> 01:38:27,417
how much we crave
to connect with each other.
1880
01:38:27,500 --> 01:38:29,959
So one day, I texted everybody,
1881
01:38:30,410 --> 01:38:32,875
I said, "Let's get
a Momentum reunion together."
1882
01:38:32,959 --> 01:38:36,333
That was the first time
we all got together
1883
01:38:36,417 --> 01:38:37,709
in so long.
1884
01:38:37,792 --> 01:38:40,830
Benji-o!
1885
01:38:40,166 --> 01:38:42,375
It was just like
we never left.
1886
01:38:47,166 --> 01:38:50,583
Now that the competition's been
taken out of our friendship,
1887
01:38:50,667 --> 01:38:53,500
it brought us back
to being kids again.
1888
01:38:53,583 --> 01:38:56,917
It was like being there
25 years ago.
1889
01:38:59,208 --> 01:39:00,750
And I don't care if we have
the same blood
1890
01:39:00,834 --> 01:39:02,875
running through
our veins or not.
1891
01:39:02,959 --> 01:39:07,417
To me, friendship
is the hidden blood.
1892
01:39:07,500 --> 01:39:10,830
It's the closeness
that makes you
1893
01:39:10,166 --> 01:39:13,333
connected to another spirit.
1894
01:39:15,830 --> 01:39:17,625
As a whole,
I look at my life...
1895
01:39:17,709 --> 01:39:19,667
I've been given so much,
1896
01:39:19,750 --> 01:39:22,959
and thankfully,
I sought out the people
1897
01:39:23,410 --> 01:39:25,410
I wanted to be around
1898
01:39:25,125 --> 01:39:26,875
who were better people
than I was.
1899
01:39:26,959 --> 01:39:30,125
And those people have rubbed
off on me in a lot of ways,
1900
01:39:30,208 --> 01:39:32,458
and still do every day.
1901
01:39:32,542 --> 01:39:35,125
A lot of us have been friends
since we were 12 years old,
1902
01:39:35,208 --> 01:39:39,125
so I can say my deepest,
darkest whatever
1903
01:39:39,208 --> 01:39:41,375
and those guys
don't even bat an eye.
1904
01:39:41,458 --> 01:39:43,792
It's just, those are my friends.
1905
01:39:45,583 --> 01:39:47,333
The reunion was insane.
1906
01:39:47,417 --> 01:39:50,375
We had so much fun
teasing each other, laughing.
1907
01:39:50,458 --> 01:39:52,792
And surfing is just a bonus.
1908
01:41:01,830 --> 01:41:03,208
♪ There's no combination
or words I could put ♪
1909
01:41:03,291 --> 01:41:05,208
♪ On the back of a postcard ♪
1910
01:41:05,291 --> 01:41:06,875
♪ No song that I could sing ♪
1911
01:41:06,959 --> 01:41:09,542
♪ But I can try
for your heart ♪
1912
01:41:09,625 --> 01:41:13,250
♪ Our dreams, and they are
made out of real things ♪
1913
01:41:13,333 --> 01:41:15,667
♪ Like a shoebox
of photographs ♪
1914
01:41:15,750 --> 01:41:18,125
♪ With sepia-toned loving ♪
1915
01:41:18,208 --> 01:41:22,375
♪ Love is the answer,
at least for most of
the questions in my heart ♪
1916
01:41:22,458 --> 01:41:26,875
♪ Why are we here
and where do we go
and how come it's so hard? ♪
1917
01:41:26,959 --> 01:41:31,125
♪ It's not always easy
and sometimes life
can be deceiving ♪
1918
01:41:31,208 --> 01:41:36,000
♪ I'll tell you one thing,
it's always better
when we're together ♪
1919
01:41:36,830 --> 01:41:40,417
♪ Hmm, it's always better
when we're together ♪
1920
01:41:40,500 --> 01:41:44,542
♪ Yeah, we'll look at them
stars when we're together ♪
1921
01:41:44,625 --> 01:41:49,375
♪ Well, it's always better
when we're together ♪
1922
01:41:49,458 --> 01:41:53,875
♪ Yeah, it's always better
when we're together ♪
1923
01:41:57,875 --> 01:41:59,542
Here we are at Finals Day
at the...
1924
01:41:59,625 --> 01:42:02,458
I wouldn't be surprised
if almost 100% of the people...
1925
01:42:02,542 --> 01:42:05,000
They're the favorite
in that event to win...
1926
01:42:08,917 --> 01:42:13,750
♪ And all of these moments
just might find their way
into my dreams tonight ♪
1927
01:42:13,834 --> 01:42:16,375
♪ But I know
that they'll be gone ♪
1928
01:42:16,458 --> 01:42:20,792
♪ When the morning light sings
and brings new things ♪
1929
01:42:20,875 --> 01:42:23,208
♪ But tomorrow night you see ♪
1930
01:42:23,291 --> 01:42:25,830
♪ That they'll be gone too ♪
1931
01:42:25,166 --> 01:42:27,410
♪ Too many things
I have to do ♪
1932
01:42:27,125 --> 01:42:29,583
♪ But if all of these dreams
might find their way ♪
1933
01:42:29,667 --> 01:42:31,792
♪ Into my day-to-day scene ♪
1934
01:42:31,875 --> 01:42:33,917
♪ I'd be under the impression ♪
1935
01:42:34,000 --> 01:42:35,750
♪ I was somewhere in between ♪
1936
01:42:35,834 --> 01:42:37,959
♪ With only two,
just me and you ♪
1937
01:42:38,410 --> 01:42:40,458
♪ Not so many things
we got to do ♪
1938
01:42:40,542 --> 01:42:42,291
♪ Or places we got to be ♪
1939
01:42:42,375 --> 01:42:45,834
♪ We'll sit beneath
the mango tree ♪
1940
01:42:45,917 --> 01:42:49,250
♪ Yeah, it's always better
when we're together ♪
1941
01:42:49,333 --> 01:42:53,417
♪ I'll tell you one thing,
it's always better
when were together ♪
1942
01:42:53,500 --> 01:42:56,500
♪ Ooh, it's always better
when we're... ♪
1943
01:42:56,583 --> 01:42:58,166
Janet After Todd died,
1944
01:42:58,250 --> 01:43:00,417
Kelly said to me,
"You realize now
1945
01:43:00,500 --> 01:43:03,750
the only person you could ever
really date is Pat."
1946
01:43:03,834 --> 01:43:05,875
And I remember thinking,
1947
01:43:05,959 --> 01:43:07,583
"So weird,
he's like my brother."
1948
01:43:07,667 --> 01:43:09,830
You know? "It's Pat."
1949
01:43:11,625 --> 01:43:13,750
Janet and I were
such close friends,
1950
01:43:13,834 --> 01:43:15,750
it's like from one of those
romantic comedies.
1951
01:43:15,834 --> 01:43:17,875
Like, "Why doesn't this guy
just kiss the chick?"
1952
01:43:17,959 --> 01:43:19,834
We were living together
as roommates,
1953
01:43:19,917 --> 01:43:23,166
and I came home one night,
and he told me how he felt.
1954
01:43:23,250 --> 01:43:27,410
"Hey, Janet, you know,
we've been friends
for a long time.
1955
01:43:28,875 --> 01:43:32,410
"Y-Yeah." You know?
Like, "What do you think?"
1956
01:43:32,125 --> 01:43:35,917
Whoa.
Didn't see that coming.
1957
01:43:36,000 --> 01:43:38,410
And at first it was
a little weird,
1958
01:43:38,125 --> 01:43:39,959
but it just felt right.
1959
01:43:42,830 --> 01:43:44,625
The only person Todd...
1960
01:43:44,709 --> 01:43:47,959
would have felt comfortable
with me being with is Pat.
1961
01:43:48,410 --> 01:43:51,125
Sometimes I think
he was up there kinda...
1962
01:43:51,208 --> 01:43:53,542
orchestrating it,
probably telling the guys
1963
01:43:53,625 --> 01:43:55,410
to threaten the other guys away.
1964
01:44:00,333 --> 01:44:03,000
Hearing some of the speeches
at our wedding,
1965
01:44:03,830 --> 01:44:05,959
I kinda started
to put it together.
1966
01:44:06,410 --> 01:44:08,375
I was like, "OK...
1967
01:44:08,458 --> 01:44:10,333
They all knew
what they were doing."
1968
01:44:10,417 --> 01:44:13,500
It was just so perfect
that her and Pat got together.
1969
01:44:13,583 --> 01:44:15,417
I mean, I gotta pinch myself
sometimes.
1970
01:44:15,500 --> 01:44:18,667
That's like Todd's spirit
coming through.
1971
01:45:11,830 --> 01:45:14,917
♪ Look for me in the tides ♪
1972
01:45:15,000 --> 01:45:18,291
♪ And it's all right ♪
1973
01:45:33,417 --> 01:45:35,625
♪ Set me free ♪
1974
01:45:35,709 --> 01:45:41,667
♪ In the tides and fade away ♪
1975
01:45:41,750 --> 01:45:44,166
♪ Set me free ♪
1976
01:45:44,250 --> 01:45:49,208
♪ In the tides and fade away ♪
147264
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