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WOMAN: TODAY FEW PEOPLE'S
WARDROBES ATTRACT
4
00:00:11,045 --> 00:00:14,255
AS MUCH ATTENTION
AS THE BRITISH ROYAL FAMILY'S.
5
00:00:17,224 --> 00:00:20,675
HARDLY A DAY GOES BY
WITHOUT SOME PRESS COMMENT
6
00:00:20,710 --> 00:00:24,403
ON A LITTLE ROYAL ROMPER SUIT
OR A DESIGNER DRESS
7
00:00:24,438 --> 00:00:26,819
OR A SNEAKY
HIGH STREET PURCHASE,
8
00:00:26,854 --> 00:00:29,443
AND YOU MIGHT THINK THAT
THE WORLD TODAY HAS GONE MAD
9
00:00:29,477 --> 00:00:31,824
FOR A PEEK INSIDE
THE ROYAL WARDROBE,
10
00:00:31,859 --> 00:00:35,966
BUT, BELIEVE ME,
IT'S ALWAYS BEEN LIKE THIS.
11
00:00:36,001 --> 00:00:39,453
IN THIS PROGRAM,
I'M GOING TO OPEN WIDE THE DOORS
12
00:00:39,487 --> 00:00:42,939
OF THE ROYAL WARDROBE
TO UNCOVER ITS SECRETS,
13
00:00:42,973 --> 00:00:46,701
EXPLORING THE CLOTHES OF KINGS
AND QUEENS PAST AND PRESENT,
14
00:00:46,736 --> 00:00:50,636
FROM ELIZABETH I OVER 400 YEARS
15
00:00:50,671 --> 00:00:53,950
TO OUR CURRENT BRITISH MONARCH--
QUEEN ELIZABETH II.
16
00:00:53,984 --> 00:00:57,160
I BELIEVE THAT THE FASCINATION
OF ROYAL CLOTHING
17
00:00:57,195 --> 00:01:00,405
GOES BEYOND ITS CUT
OR ITS COLOR.
18
00:01:00,439 --> 00:01:02,407
THESE THINGS ARE MORE
THAN CLOTHES.
19
00:01:02,441 --> 00:01:05,030
THEY'RE SYMBOLS OR STATEMENTS,
20
00:01:05,065 --> 00:01:07,101
AND I THINK THAT
THROUGHOUT HISTORY,
21
00:01:07,136 --> 00:01:10,829
THE ROYAL WARDROBE HAS BEEN
IMPORTANT IN SHAPING THE IMAGE
22
00:01:10,863 --> 00:01:15,834
OF THE MONARCHY FOR BETTER
AND SOMETIMES FOR WORSE.
23
00:01:25,775 --> 00:01:27,984
WORSLEY: I'M GOING TO START
RIFLING THROUGH
24
00:01:28,018 --> 00:01:32,299
THE ROYAL WARDROBES OF HISTORY
WITH ELIZABETH I.
25
00:01:32,333 --> 00:01:36,510
SHE'S A QUEEN WHO I PARTICULARLY
ADMIRE FOR HER SKILL IN USING
26
00:01:36,544 --> 00:01:41,101
CLOTHING TO CONSTRUCT AN IMAGE
OF POWER AND MAJESTY.
27
00:01:42,585 --> 00:01:44,932
AS A CHILD, ELIZABETH
SPENT MUCH TIME
28
00:01:44,966 --> 00:01:48,108
AT HATFIELD HOUSE
IN HERTFORDSHIRE,
29
00:01:48,142 --> 00:01:50,800
AND IT WAS HER FAVORITE
RESIDENCE THROUGHOUT HER LIFE.
30
00:01:50,834 --> 00:01:54,321
IT WAS HERE, BENEATH THIS OAK
IN HATFIELD'S GROUNDS,
31
00:01:54,355 --> 00:02:00,223
THAT SHE DISCOVERED THAT SHE
WAS NOW QUEEN AT THE AGE OF 25.
32
00:02:00,258 --> 00:02:02,398
RIGHT FROM THE START
OF HER REIGN,
33
00:02:02,432 --> 00:02:05,642
ELIZABETH HAD TO CONTROL
HER IMAGE VERY CAREFULLY.
34
00:02:05,677 --> 00:02:07,644
SHE KNEW THAT THE ODDS
WERE STACKED
35
00:02:07,679 --> 00:02:09,784
AGAINST HER BEING
A SUCCESSFUL MONARCH.
36
00:02:09,819 --> 00:02:13,443
FIRSTLY, SHE WAS FEMALE--
BEING A KING WAS A MAN'S JOB--
37
00:02:13,478 --> 00:02:16,205
AND SECONDLY, BECAUSE HER MOTHER
HAD BEEN ANNE BOLEYN,
38
00:02:16,239 --> 00:02:19,311
MANY PEOPLE BELIEVED
THAT SHE WAS ILLEGITIMATE.
39
00:02:19,346 --> 00:02:22,072
THIRDLY, SHE HAD
VERY BIG SHOES TO FILL,
40
00:02:22,107 --> 00:02:26,594
THOSE OF HER FATHER HENRY VIII,
WHO HAD EVERY NATURAL
41
00:02:26,629 --> 00:02:28,665
AND ARTIFICIAL ADVANTAGE.
42
00:02:28,700 --> 00:02:31,323
HE WAS A FINE FIGURE OF A MAN,
43
00:02:31,358 --> 00:02:33,877
ALTHOUGH WHEN IT TURNED
TO FAT LATER ON,
44
00:02:33,912 --> 00:02:36,742
HE WAS 54 INCHES
AROUND THE WAIST,
45
00:02:36,777 --> 00:02:39,400
BUT HERE, HE'S HAD HOLBEIN
MAKE THE MOST
46
00:02:39,435 --> 00:02:42,507
OF HIS VERY SPLENDID COSTUME,
47
00:02:42,541 --> 00:02:44,612
AND THE EYE CANNOT HELP
BUT BE DRAWN
48
00:02:44,647 --> 00:02:47,374
TO THIS PARTICULAR GARMENT HERE,
THE CODPIECE,
49
00:02:47,408 --> 00:02:51,688
WHICH, FOLLOWING TUDOR FASHION,
HAS BECOME OUTSIZED.
50
00:02:51,723 --> 00:02:54,691
MEN USED THEM AS LITTLE PURSES
TO CARRY MONEY IN
51
00:02:54,726 --> 00:02:57,453
OR SOMETIMES PRECIOUS THINGS,
LIKE JEWELS,
52
00:02:57,487 --> 00:03:01,042
HENCE THE EXPRESSION
A MAN'S "CROWN JEWELS,"
53
00:03:01,077 --> 00:03:03,493
BUT WHAT HOLBEIN
IS REALLY SAYING HERE
54
00:03:03,528 --> 00:03:05,219
IS THAT HENRY IS FERTILE.
55
00:03:05,254 --> 00:03:07,394
HE'S FULL OF LOVELY SPERM.
56
00:03:07,428 --> 00:03:11,570
HE IS THE IDEAL
MEDIEVAL MACHO MONARCH.
57
00:03:14,504 --> 00:03:16,782
ELIZABETH OBVIOUSLY
DIDN'T HAVE HER FATHER'S
58
00:03:16,817 --> 00:03:18,922
IMPOSING PHYSICAL ATTRIBUTES,
59
00:03:18,957 --> 00:03:21,891
BUT SHE HELPED TO MAKE UP
FOR THAT USING CLOTHES,
60
00:03:21,925 --> 00:03:26,136
AND TO SPREAD THE MESSAGE
OF HOW QUEENLY THIS QUEEN WAS,
61
00:03:26,171 --> 00:03:29,933
PORTRAITS OF HER WERE HUNG IN
EVERY GREAT HOUSE OF THE REALM,
62
00:03:29,968 --> 00:03:32,522
INCLUDING HATFIELD.
63
00:03:34,938 --> 00:03:38,528
THIS IS AN EXTRAORDINARY
DRESS THAT SHE'S WEARING,
64
00:03:38,563 --> 00:03:41,151
AND WHAT'S THIS
WHITE, GAUZY STUFF
65
00:03:41,186 --> 00:03:44,051
THAT'S SORT OF SWIRLING
AROUND HER LIKE A CLOUD?
66
00:03:44,085 --> 00:03:45,742
WELL, THAT'S
VERY FINE FABRIC.
67
00:03:45,777 --> 00:03:49,021
IT'S WIRED AT THE
EDGES SO IT GIVES
68
00:03:49,056 --> 00:03:51,058
THE EFFECT UP THERE
OF WINGS.
69
00:03:51,092 --> 00:03:54,717
SO IT'S GIVING HER,
AS SHE MOVES,
70
00:03:54,751 --> 00:03:55,752
TREMENDOUS
SORT OF PRESENCE
71
00:03:55,787 --> 00:03:57,271
AND CONSEQUENCE.
72
00:03:57,306 --> 00:03:59,100
IT LOOKS LIKE A SORT
OF PERSONAL CLOUD
73
00:03:59,135 --> 00:04:01,965
OF DRY ICE SWIRLING AROUND
HER WHEREVER SHE GOES.
74
00:04:02,000 --> 00:04:03,967
IT LOOKS FANTASTIC
IN THE PORTRAIT.
75
00:04:04,002 --> 00:04:06,073
WHAT IT WAS LIKE IN
REALITY WALKING AROUND
76
00:04:06,107 --> 00:04:08,386
WITH GREAT,
WIRED WINGS, YOU KNOW,
77
00:04:08,420 --> 00:04:10,698
PARTICULARLY IF THERE
WAS ANY KIND OF WIND--
78
00:04:10,733 --> 00:04:13,287
I GUESS YOU'D BLOW AWAY
IF THE WIND GOT BEHIND YOU.
79
00:04:13,322 --> 00:04:15,841
WELL, I WOULDN'T
TRY IT OUT A BIT.
80
00:04:15,876 --> 00:04:17,567
WORSLEY, VOICE-OVER: WHILE
ELIZABETH'S INCREDIBLE DRESS
81
00:04:17,602 --> 00:04:22,158
MAY HAVE BEEN IMPRACTICAL,
IT CERTAINLY GAVE HER PRESENCE,
82
00:04:22,192 --> 00:04:25,195
BUT IT WASN'T JUST THE COLOR
AND SHAPE THAT HAD SIGNIFICANCE.
83
00:04:25,230 --> 00:04:27,336
THE DRESS IS FULL OF SYMBOLISM
84
00:04:27,370 --> 00:04:30,753
THAT AN ELIZABETHAN VIEWER
COULD READ LIKE A BOOK.
85
00:04:30,787 --> 00:04:34,308
TO THEM, THE PEARLS SIGNIFIED
PEACE AND PURITY.
86
00:04:34,343 --> 00:04:37,242
SHE WAS SUPPOSED TO BE
THE VIRGIN QUEEN.
87
00:04:37,277 --> 00:04:39,727
THE BEJEWELED SNAKE
SYMBOLIZED WISDOM.
88
00:04:39,762 --> 00:04:42,454
THE HEART SYMBOLIZED LOVE.
89
00:04:42,489 --> 00:04:45,595
THIS QUEEN RULED
WITH BOTH HEART AND HEAD
90
00:04:45,630 --> 00:04:48,288
AND SHE HAD EYES EVERYWHERE.
91
00:04:50,186 --> 00:04:53,223
WHAT'S GOING ON, FOR EXAMPLE,
WITH THESE LITTLE EYES?
92
00:04:53,258 --> 00:04:56,434
WELL, THE EYES
AND THE EARS--
93
00:04:56,468 --> 00:04:58,436
THEY REALLY ARE VERY
FREAKISH, AREN'T THEY?
94
00:04:58,470 --> 00:04:59,782
THEY ARE
EXTRAORDINARY.
95
00:04:59,816 --> 00:05:01,301
AND DO YOU THINK THIS
IS THE QUEEN SAYING,
96
00:05:01,335 --> 00:05:02,474
"I CAN HEAR EVERYTHING,
97
00:05:02,509 --> 00:05:03,786
AND I CAN SEE
EVERYTHING THAT YOU DO"?
98
00:05:03,820 --> 00:05:05,512
IT IS.
99
00:05:05,546 --> 00:05:07,652
RULE OF THE STATE,
AS IT WERE,
100
00:05:07,686 --> 00:05:10,517
IS SYMBOLIZED
BY EYES AND EARS.
101
00:05:10,551 --> 00:05:12,553
AND WHAT'S GOING ON
WITH THE RAINBOW?
102
00:05:12,588 --> 00:05:14,762
WE KNOW THIS AS
THE "RAINBOW PICTURE"
103
00:05:14,797 --> 00:05:16,557
BECAUSE SHE'S
HOLDING THIS THING
104
00:05:16,592 --> 00:05:18,387
THAT LOOKS LIKE
A GRAY HOSEPIPE.
105
00:05:18,421 --> 00:05:21,217
THIS AT ONE STAGE MUST
HAVE BEEN ALL THE COLORS
106
00:05:21,251 --> 00:05:24,358
OF THE RAINBOW,
BUT NOW THEY'VE FADED.
107
00:05:24,393 --> 00:05:27,016
SO WE HAVE THIS
LITTLE INSCRIPTION HERE.
108
00:05:27,050 --> 00:05:28,051
THAT'S A CLUE.
109
00:05:28,086 --> 00:05:29,432
THE INSCRIPTION
IN LATIN SAYS,
110
00:05:29,467 --> 00:05:31,503
"WITHOUT THE SUN, YOU
DON'T GET THE RAINBOW."
111
00:05:31,538 --> 00:05:33,574
SO SHE IS THE SUN,
BASICALLY.
112
00:05:33,609 --> 00:05:36,370
SHE IS THE SUN,
A VERY COMMON METAPHOR
113
00:05:36,405 --> 00:05:38,890
FOR A RULER, AND THE
RAINBOW IS A SYMBOL
114
00:05:38,924 --> 00:05:41,341
OF PEACE, AND THIS
IS REALLY WHAT
115
00:05:41,375 --> 00:05:44,344
EVERYBODY WANTS--
PEACE AND TRANQUILITY.
116
00:05:44,378 --> 00:05:46,380
THE PICTURE IS SAYING,
"I'VE GOT A HEART.
117
00:05:46,415 --> 00:05:47,899
"I'M WISE.
I'M WEARING A SNAKE.
118
00:05:47,933 --> 00:05:50,142
"I CAN HEAR YOU AND SEE YOU
WITH THE EYES AND EARS,
119
00:05:50,177 --> 00:05:51,420
"AND ALSO,
I'M HOLDING A RAINBOW.
120
00:05:51,454 --> 00:05:52,628
I CAN CONTROL
THE WEATHER."
121
00:05:52,662 --> 00:05:54,975
THAT'S A PRETTY GOOD
RANGE OF SKILLS
122
00:05:55,009 --> 00:05:56,010
AND ATTRIBUTES,
ISN'T IT?
123
00:05:56,045 --> 00:05:58,461
WELL, EFFECTIVELY,
IT IS.
124
00:05:58,496 --> 00:06:00,981
WORSLEY, VOICE-OVER: ELIZABETH'S
DRESSES WERE AN IMPORTANT PART
125
00:06:01,015 --> 00:06:04,225
OF THE TUDOR PROPAGANDA MACHINE,
WHERE THE PEOPLE SAW THEM
126
00:06:04,260 --> 00:06:07,884
IN PICTURES OR ON HER PROGRESSES
AROUND THE COUNTRY,
127
00:06:07,919 --> 00:06:10,059
AND WE KNOW THEY
WERE IMPORTANT TO HER
128
00:06:10,093 --> 00:06:13,096
FROM THE NUMBER SHE POSSESSED.
129
00:06:13,131 --> 00:06:16,272
THIS LITTLE STREET HERE
IS CALLED WARDROBE PLACE
130
00:06:16,306 --> 00:06:20,276
BECAUSE 400 YEARS AGO,
A VAST BUILDING STOOD HERE
131
00:06:20,310 --> 00:06:22,623
TO HOUSE THE ROYAL WARDROBE.
132
00:06:22,658 --> 00:06:26,144
IT HAD ITS OWN SPECIAL STAFF,
THE WARDERS OF THE ROBES,
133
00:06:26,178 --> 00:06:28,560
AND THIS MAP
OF ELIZABETHAN LONDON
134
00:06:28,595 --> 00:06:31,701
SHOWS THAT IT TOOK UP
A WHOLE CITY BLOCK.
135
00:06:31,736 --> 00:06:34,255
IT WAS LIKE A VAST WAREHOUSE
FULL OF DRESSES.
136
00:06:34,290 --> 00:06:38,225
AN INVENTORY TAKEN IN 1599
REVEALED THAT ELIZABETH I
137
00:06:38,259 --> 00:06:41,884
HAD 1,326 OF THEM.
138
00:06:42,988 --> 00:06:45,232
ELIZABETH'S VAST
CLOTHING COLLECTION
139
00:06:45,266 --> 00:06:48,753
REQUIRED A HUGE RETINUE OF STAFF
TO LOOK AFTER IT.
140
00:06:48,787 --> 00:06:52,308
ONE MAN WAS EMPLOYED
JUST TO LOOK AFTER HER MUFFS.
141
00:06:52,342 --> 00:06:55,242
SO CONSIDERING THE SHEER NUMBER
OF HER DRESSES,
142
00:06:55,276 --> 00:06:58,763
IT'S QUITE REMARKABLE
THAT NONE SURVIVE TODAY.
143
00:07:00,212 --> 00:07:03,388
AT WESTMINSTER ABBEY, THOUGH,
THE RESTING PLACE OF THE ROYALS
144
00:07:03,423 --> 00:07:06,771
FOR THE LAST 1,000 YEARS,
YOU DO GET A TANTALIZING
145
00:07:06,805 --> 00:07:10,499
AND INTIMATE GLIMPSE
OF ONE SINGLE ITEM.
146
00:07:14,088 --> 00:07:17,160
THIS IS ONE OF THE VERY EARLIEST
SURVIVING BITS
147
00:07:17,195 --> 00:07:19,162
OF ROYAL CLOTHING.
148
00:07:19,197 --> 00:07:21,371
WE STILL GOT IT BECAUSE
OF THE WEIRD TRADITION
149
00:07:21,406 --> 00:07:23,926
OF THE FUNERAL EFFIGY.
150
00:07:23,960 --> 00:07:27,067
THIS WAS A MODEL OF THE DEAD
KING OR QUEEN THAT WAS MADE
151
00:07:27,101 --> 00:07:30,933
TO BE CARRIED IN THEIR FUNERAL
PROCESSION TO WESTMINSTER ABBEY.
152
00:07:30,967 --> 00:07:35,420
ELIZABETH I's HEAD IS MISSING,
BUT ORIGINALLY, IT WAS PAINTED
153
00:07:35,455 --> 00:07:39,079
AND COLORED SO BEAUTIFULLY
THAT IT APPARENTLY LOOKED
154
00:07:39,113 --> 00:07:43,048
LIKE SHE WAS STILL ALIVE,
AND HER FIGURE WAS DRESSED
155
00:07:43,083 --> 00:07:46,155
IN HER CORONATION ROBES
AND UNDERNEATH THAT,
156
00:07:46,189 --> 00:07:49,261
SPECIALLY CONSTRUCTED UNDERWEAR.
157
00:07:49,296 --> 00:07:53,369
THIS CORSET-TYPE THING,
CALLED A SET OF STAYS,
158
00:07:53,403 --> 00:07:55,923
DOESN'T LOOK LIKE MUCH,
BUT IT IS REMARKABLE.
159
00:07:55,958 --> 00:07:59,306
ORIGINALLY, IT WAS
A VERY HIGH-STATUS ITEM.
160
00:07:59,340 --> 00:08:03,621
IT'S MADE WITH MANY, MANY STRIPS
OF WHALE BONE FOR SUPPORT
161
00:08:03,655 --> 00:08:06,658
THAT HAVE BEEN SEWED INTO IT
VERY CAREFULLY
162
00:08:06,693 --> 00:08:10,075
WITH A HUGE AMOUNT OF LABOR,
AND IT'S EXTRAORDINARY TO THINK
163
00:08:10,110 --> 00:08:15,356
THAT THIS REPRESENTS THE BODY
OF A WOMAN WHO WAS 70 YEARS OLD.
164
00:08:15,391 --> 00:08:20,914
IT FORCES THE FLESH INTO A VERY
UNNATURAL, LONG, NARROW SHAPE,
165
00:08:20,948 --> 00:08:23,710
WHICH WAS PARTLY
ELIZABETHAN FASHION,
166
00:08:23,744 --> 00:08:26,920
BUT IT WAS ALSO THE QUEEN
WANTING TO CREATE
167
00:08:26,954 --> 00:08:31,856
A VERY STRANGE AND OTHERWORLDLY
IMAGE FOR HERSELF.
168
00:08:33,513 --> 00:08:36,067
ELIZABETH'S UNDERWEAR
WAS ORIGINALLY ONLY SEEN
169
00:08:36,101 --> 00:08:38,241
BY HER LADIES-IN-WAITING,
170
00:08:38,276 --> 00:08:40,727
AND IT'S ONLY WHEN THE EFFIGY
WAS CONSERVED
171
00:08:40,761 --> 00:08:45,455
THAT THIS INTIMATE ITEM
WAS ACCIDENTALLY DISCOVERED.
172
00:08:45,490 --> 00:08:49,218
THE STAYS ARE EXCITING BECAUSE
THEY FORMED THE FOUNDATION
173
00:08:49,252 --> 00:08:52,324
FOR AN INCREDIBLE NUMBER
OF LAYERS ABOVE
174
00:08:52,359 --> 00:08:56,190
THAT WOULD CONSTRUCT ELIZABETH'S
UNIQUE SILHOUETTE.
175
00:08:59,228 --> 00:09:01,782
HOW LONG DO YOU THINK
IT WOULD TAKE, MARK,
176
00:09:01,817 --> 00:09:03,853
FOR ELIZABETH I TO GET
177
00:09:03,888 --> 00:09:06,166
TOTALLY QUEENED UP,
THEN, START TO FINISH?
178
00:09:06,200 --> 00:09:07,995
OH, GOSH, WELL,
SHE'S NOT IN A RUSH,
179
00:09:08,030 --> 00:09:09,618
SO I'D IMAGINE PROBABLY
ABOUT TWO HOURS.
180
00:09:09,652 --> 00:09:12,310
OF COURSE, IT'S NOT
JUST THE CLOTHES.
181
00:09:12,344 --> 00:09:14,208
IT'S THE JEWELRY,
THE MAKEUP, THE WIG.
182
00:09:14,243 --> 00:09:16,003
THE ENTIRE ENSEMBLE
TO BE THE QUEEN,
183
00:09:16,038 --> 00:09:17,246
ABOUT TWO HOURS.
184
00:09:17,280 --> 00:09:20,007
AND HERE I AM IN MY
SATIN-COVERED BODY.
185
00:09:20,042 --> 00:09:21,250
THAT'S ITS NAME,
ISN'T IT?
186
00:09:21,284 --> 00:09:22,251
YEAH, A PAIR
OF BODIES, EVEN,
187
00:09:22,285 --> 00:09:23,597
A PAIR OF BODIES.
188
00:09:23,632 --> 00:09:24,771
AND COVERED
IN FINE FABRIC
189
00:09:24,805 --> 00:09:25,979
BECAUSE, OF COURSE,
IT'S THE QUEEN'S.
190
00:09:26,013 --> 00:09:28,775
IT'S AN AWFULLY LONG
AND SORT OF NARROW SHAPE.
191
00:09:28,809 --> 00:09:30,397
THEY'RE NOT AT ALL
LIKE VICTORIAN STAYS
192
00:09:30,431 --> 00:09:31,916
WHICH GIVE YOU
A LOVELY WAIST.
193
00:09:31,950 --> 00:09:33,089
NO, OR INDEED
A LOVELY CLEAVAGE.
194
00:09:33,124 --> 00:09:35,264
IT'S A DIFFERENT
LOOK. HA HA HA!
195
00:09:35,298 --> 00:09:36,403
AND WHAT'S NEXT,
BUM ROLL?
196
00:09:36,437 --> 00:09:37,784
EXACTLY.
YOU'RE THE QUEEN.
197
00:09:37,818 --> 00:09:39,648
IT'S COVERED
IN SILK VELVET.
198
00:09:39,682 --> 00:09:42,340
VELVET. IT'S LIKE A MASSIVE
TRAVEL PILLOW, ISN'T IT?
199
00:09:42,374 --> 00:09:43,479
HA HA! INDEED.
200
00:09:43,513 --> 00:09:45,308
A GIANT COULD SLEEP
LIKE THIS ON THE AIRPLANE.
201
00:09:45,343 --> 00:09:47,207
NO NECK ACHE IN THAT,
BUT BRING IT DOWN,
202
00:09:47,241 --> 00:09:49,658
AND UNLIKE A VICTORIAN
ONE, WHICH WOULD REST
203
00:09:49,692 --> 00:09:51,038
RIGHT DOWN
WITH THE CORSET,
204
00:09:51,073 --> 00:09:52,384
THIS JUST
IN THE MIDDLE,
205
00:09:52,419 --> 00:09:54,386
AND WE'RE LOOKING
FOR A CONE SHAPE.
206
00:09:54,421 --> 00:09:56,216
AND THAT'S EXACTLY WHAT
THESE GARMENTS ACHIEVE.
207
00:09:56,250 --> 00:09:57,700
IT MAKES YOU MORE
AND MORE LIKE AN INSECT,
208
00:09:57,735 --> 00:09:59,840
THE BIZARRE SHAPE OF
THE LATE ELIZABETHAN
209
00:09:59,875 --> 00:10:01,048
AND JACOBEAN AGE.
210
00:10:01,083 --> 00:10:02,084
THERE WE ARE.
211
00:10:02,118 --> 00:10:03,913
AND WHAT'S THE POINT
OF THE BUM ROLL?
212
00:10:03,948 --> 00:10:06,122
IT SEEMS TO BE THAT
THE MORE SPACE YOU HAVE,
213
00:10:06,157 --> 00:10:07,434
THE RICHER YOU ARE.
214
00:10:07,468 --> 00:10:08,987
SO YOU'RE MAKING
SO MUCH SPACE HERE,
215
00:10:09,022 --> 00:10:10,402
NO ONE CAN
GET CLOSE TO YOU.
216
00:10:10,437 --> 00:10:11,403
YOU'RE GONNA HAVE
TO WALK VERY SLOWLY,
217
00:10:11,438 --> 00:10:12,508
ANYWAY, BECAUSE
NO GENTLEMAN
218
00:10:12,542 --> 00:10:13,509
OR LADY WOULD HURRY.
219
00:10:13,543 --> 00:10:14,510
SERVANTS DO THAT.
220
00:10:14,544 --> 00:10:16,477
SO NOW I'VE GOT
MY SOFT HIPS,
221
00:10:16,512 --> 00:10:18,445
I CAN BUMP INTO THINGS
IF IT'S LATE AT NIGHT.
222
00:10:18,479 --> 00:10:19,860
WHAT COMES NEXT?
IS IT THE HOOPS?
223
00:10:19,895 --> 00:10:21,966
IT IS,
THE FARTHINGALE.
224
00:10:22,000 --> 00:10:25,003
NOW, THESE SHAPES
ARE MADE OF OSIER,
225
00:10:25,038 --> 00:10:26,246
THE SAME THEY WOULD
USE FOR BARRELS,
226
00:10:26,280 --> 00:10:27,385
THESE BIG CIRCLES
OF WOOD.
227
00:10:27,419 --> 00:10:29,042
SO THIS IS WOOD
INSIDE HERE,
228
00:10:29,076 --> 00:10:30,526
BIG, ROUND WOOD
IN CIRCLES.
229
00:10:30,560 --> 00:10:32,562
THAT'S RIGHT.
OVER YOUR HEAD.
230
00:10:32,597 --> 00:10:33,840
DOES IT DO UP
AT THE BACK...
231
00:10:33,874 --> 00:10:34,841
AT THE FRONT.
232
00:10:34,875 --> 00:10:36,083
OR AT THE FRONT?
233
00:10:36,118 --> 00:10:38,120
IT'S GOT TO NESTLE JUST
ON TOP OF THE BUM PAD
234
00:10:38,154 --> 00:10:40,501
AND GO ALL THE WAY DOWN
TO GIVE YOU THAT SHAPE,
235
00:10:40,536 --> 00:10:42,089
TAKING UP
EVEN MORE SPACE.
236
00:10:42,124 --> 00:10:43,366
OF COURSE, IT'S
QUITE IMPROPER THAT
237
00:10:43,401 --> 00:10:44,505
A GENTLEMAN SHOULD
BE DRESSING YOU,
238
00:10:44,540 --> 00:10:45,679
OR EVEN A MAN
LIKE MYSELF.
239
00:10:45,714 --> 00:10:47,267
OF COURSE IT'S AN IMMENSELY
TITILLATING SIGHT
240
00:10:47,301 --> 00:10:48,509
FOR YOU, ISN'T IT?
241
00:10:48,544 --> 00:10:50,097
IT CERTAINLY IS.
242
00:10:50,132 --> 00:10:51,512
I'M DOING MY BEST
TO CONTROL MYSELF.
243
00:10:51,547 --> 00:10:52,721
HOW DO YOU FEEL?
244
00:10:52,755 --> 00:10:56,310
I FEEL RATHER QUEENLY.
HA HA!
245
00:10:56,345 --> 00:10:58,381
NOW, THE PETTICOAT,
LUCY,
246
00:10:58,416 --> 00:11:00,142
AND THIS IS
BEAUTIFUL.
247
00:11:00,176 --> 00:11:01,868
THIS IS
THE FOREPART,
248
00:11:01,902 --> 00:11:03,110
AND IT'S WHITE AND
GOLD, AS YOU SEE.
249
00:11:03,145 --> 00:11:05,078
THE BACK IS OF SILK.
250
00:11:05,112 --> 00:11:06,251
IT'S NOT AS GOOD
AS THE FRONT,
251
00:11:06,286 --> 00:11:07,977
BUT IT'S STILL PRETTY
GOOD, BUT NO ONE SEES IT
252
00:11:08,012 --> 00:11:09,807
EXCEPT THE LADIES
WHO ARE DRESSING YOU.
253
00:11:09,841 --> 00:11:11,532
ONLY I KNOW THAT
I HAVE A SILKEN BOTTOM?
254
00:11:11,567 --> 00:11:13,983
INDEED. OK.
ALL RIGHT.
255
00:11:14,018 --> 00:11:16,710
NOW, LUCY, TURN AROUND.
GIVE US A TWIRL.
256
00:11:16,745 --> 00:11:17,815
DOES MY BUM
LOOK BIG IN THIS?
257
00:11:17,849 --> 00:11:19,057
HA HA HA!
258
00:11:19,092 --> 00:11:21,784
NOW LET'S IMPRISON THOSE
WANDERING HANDS OF YOURS
259
00:11:21,819 --> 00:11:23,993
IN MILES AND MILES
OF VELVET.
260
00:11:24,028 --> 00:11:26,168
HANG ON
TO YOUR CUFFS
261
00:11:26,202 --> 00:11:27,307
BECAUSE THIS
IS JOLLY HEAVY.
262
00:11:27,341 --> 00:11:28,791
OH, THERE WE ARE.
ARE YOU IN?
263
00:11:28,826 --> 00:11:31,069
WHOA.
LET'S SEE.
264
00:11:31,104 --> 00:11:32,553
NOW, HOW DOES
THAT FEEL?
265
00:11:32,588 --> 00:11:33,554
VERY COZY.
266
00:11:33,589 --> 00:11:34,901
LOOKS GOOD ON YOU
COLORWISE.
267
00:11:34,935 --> 00:11:36,972
IMPOSSIBLE, MOST
OF THESE DRESSES,
268
00:11:37,006 --> 00:11:39,526
FOR PEOPLE TO GET INTO
THEMSELVES.
269
00:11:39,560 --> 00:11:40,872
AND NOW
FOR YOUR SO-CALLED
270
00:11:40,907 --> 00:11:43,116
CARTWHEEL RUFF,
YOUR MAJESTY.
271
00:11:43,150 --> 00:11:46,498
WHOOPS, FORGIVE
MY TREMBLING HANDS.
272
00:11:46,533 --> 00:11:49,156
YOU KNOW, IT REALLY WORKS,
ALL OF THIS GEAR,
273
00:11:49,191 --> 00:11:52,504
BECAUSE I DO ACTUALLY
FEEL EXTREMELY QUEENLIKE.
274
00:11:52,539 --> 00:11:54,196
OH, AND YOU
LOOK IT, TOO.
275
00:11:54,230 --> 00:11:57,337
QUEEN OF HEARTS.
AH, YEAH. EXCELLENT.
276
00:11:57,371 --> 00:12:01,237
BEHEAD THAT MAN AND
GIVE THAT LADY A PEERAGE.
277
00:12:01,272 --> 00:12:02,929
VERY GOOD, MADAM.
278
00:12:02,963 --> 00:12:05,483
HA HA HA!
YOU LOOK LOVELY.
279
00:12:09,211 --> 00:12:12,732
ELIZABETH I's DRESSES
LITERALLY DAZZLED THE EYES
280
00:12:12,766 --> 00:12:16,183
OF HER 16th-CENTURY
COURIERS AND VISITORS.
281
00:12:16,218 --> 00:12:20,153
THIS DRESS ALONE WAS COVERED
WITH 800 FRESHWATER PEARLS,
282
00:12:20,187 --> 00:12:23,812
AND THAT'S NOT INCLUDING
THE JEWELRY SHE WORE ON TOP.
283
00:12:23,846 --> 00:12:26,676
AS A RESULT, ELIZABETH'S
WARDROBE BECAME LEGENDARY,
284
00:12:26,711 --> 00:12:29,300
EVEN IN HER OWN LIFETIME.
285
00:12:29,334 --> 00:12:34,098
IN 1600 WHEN THE MORAVIAN BARON
WALDSTEIN VISITED ENGLAND,
286
00:12:34,132 --> 00:12:37,549
HE SAID THAT HIS SOLE OBJECT
HAD BEEN TO WIN AN AUDIENCE
287
00:12:37,584 --> 00:12:40,690
WITH THE QUEEN,
AND AFTERWARDS HE SAID
288
00:12:40,725 --> 00:12:44,798
THAT SHE'D BEEN "GLITTERING
WITH THE GLORY OF MAJESTY"
289
00:12:44,833 --> 00:12:47,249
AND SHE'D BEEN
ADORNED ALL OVER
290
00:12:47,283 --> 00:12:49,941
WITH PRECIOUS JEWELS AND GEMS.
291
00:12:51,598 --> 00:12:54,463
ELIZABETHAN FASHION
NOT ONLY BOLSTERED
292
00:12:54,497 --> 00:12:57,155
THE INTERNATIONAL REPUTATION
OF THE QUEEN HERSELF,
293
00:12:57,190 --> 00:13:00,055
BUT ALSO HER ENTIRE COURT.
294
00:13:00,089 --> 00:13:03,299
SHE USED CLOTHES TO CONSTRUCT
HER OWN PERSONAL IMAGE
295
00:13:03,334 --> 00:13:07,269
BUT EXPECTED THE REST
OF HER COURT TO FOLLOW HER LEAD.
296
00:13:07,303 --> 00:13:10,790
A GENTLEMAN'S SUIT APPROPRIATE
FOR COURT WEAR WOULD COST
297
00:13:10,824 --> 00:13:14,724
AS MUCH AS A YEAR'S RENT
ON HIS LONDON TOWNHOUSE.
298
00:13:14,759 --> 00:13:18,832
TO MAINTAIN STANDARDS,
ELIZABETH EVEN PASSED LAWS
299
00:13:18,867 --> 00:13:23,009
ON WHAT PEOPLE SHOULD AND,
IMPORTANTLY, SHOULD NOT WEAR.
300
00:13:25,356 --> 00:13:27,876
ELIZABETH WANTED HER COURTIERS
TO LOOK GOOD,
301
00:13:27,910 --> 00:13:30,879
BUT SHE DIDN'T WANT THEM GETTING
ABOVE THEIR STATION.
302
00:13:30,913 --> 00:13:35,090
SO SHE PASSED NO LESS
THAN 10 STATUES OF APPAREL,
303
00:13:35,124 --> 00:13:39,128
LAWS THAT SAID WHO COULD WEAR
WHAT AT WHAT RANK OF SOCIETY.
304
00:13:39,163 --> 00:13:42,545
SO HERE IS A 16th-CENTURY
ACT OF PARLIAMENT
305
00:13:42,580 --> 00:13:46,273
AGAINST THE INORDINATE USE
OF APPAREL.
306
00:13:46,308 --> 00:13:49,138
IT SAYS HERE THAT IF YOU
WANT TO WEAR CLOTH OF GOLD,
307
00:13:49,173 --> 00:13:53,660
YOU HAVE TO BE AN EARL
OR ABOVE THAT IN STATUS.
308
00:13:53,694 --> 00:13:56,111
IF YOU WANT TO WEAR FUR
ON YOUR CLOTHES,
309
00:13:56,145 --> 00:13:59,977
YOU HAVE TO BE WORTH
AT LEAST ยฃ100 A YEAR,
310
00:14:00,011 --> 00:14:02,842
AND I ALSO LIKE
THE IMPRESSION IT GIVES
311
00:14:02,876 --> 00:14:05,914
THAT THE QUEEN CAN SEE YOU,
EVEN IN YOUR BEDROOM.
312
00:14:05,948 --> 00:14:09,918
WOE BETIDE YOU IF YOU ARE WORTH
LESS THAN ยฃ20 A YEAR
313
00:14:09,952 --> 00:14:12,541
AND IF YOU WEAR
THE SUMPTUOUS FABRIC
314
00:14:12,575 --> 00:14:15,578
OF SILK ON YOUR NIGHTCAP.
315
00:14:15,613 --> 00:14:17,926
ELIZABETH'S WARDROBE
REALLY PROVES
316
00:14:17,960 --> 00:14:21,032
HOW ROYAL DRESS HAS THE POWER
TO MAKE A MONARCH.
317
00:14:21,067 --> 00:14:23,793
HER IMAGE CONTRIBUTED
TO THE LONGEVITY
318
00:14:23,828 --> 00:14:27,004
OF HER 44-YEAR REIGN
AND THE RELATIVE PEACE
319
00:14:27,038 --> 00:14:31,905
AND PROSPERITY THAT THE COUNTRY
ENJOYED THROUGHOUT,
320
00:14:31,940 --> 00:14:36,151
BUT THE WARDROBES OF
HER SUCCESSORS, THE STUARTS,
321
00:14:36,185 --> 00:14:37,946
SHOW US HOW CLOTHES
COULD CONTRIBUTE
322
00:14:37,980 --> 00:14:40,431
TO THE BREAKING UP
OF A MONARCHY.
323
00:14:41,501 --> 00:14:43,572
IN THE 16th CENTURY,
THE TUDOR MONARCHS
324
00:14:43,606 --> 00:14:46,092
HAD KEPT THEIR ARTISTS
ON A TIGHT REIN.
325
00:14:46,126 --> 00:14:47,956
THEY AND THEY ALONE
HAD DETERMINED
326
00:14:47,990 --> 00:14:49,889
HOW THEY SHOULD BE PAINTED,
327
00:14:49,923 --> 00:14:52,305
BUT THE RISE OF
THE PRINTING PRESS AND THE SALE
328
00:14:52,339 --> 00:14:55,377
OF ILLUSTRATED PAMPHLETS
ON STREET CORNERS MEANT
329
00:14:55,411 --> 00:14:58,967
THAT THE STUART IMAGE WOULD BE
TREATED LESS RESPECTFULLY,
330
00:14:59,001 --> 00:15:04,006
AND COURT FASHION BECAME PART
OF THE POLITICAL BATTLEGROUND.
331
00:15:04,041 --> 00:15:06,940
NOW, THESE PICTURES
FROM SATIRICAL PAMPHLETS
332
00:15:06,975 --> 00:15:10,599
SHOW THE POWER OF DRESS
AND PARTICULARLY ACCUSATIONS
333
00:15:10,633 --> 00:15:13,429
ABOUT THE LAVISHNESS OF DRESS
AND THE ROLE IT PLAYED
334
00:15:13,464 --> 00:15:16,087
IN THE PROPAGANDA WAR
LEADING UP TO THE REAL
335
00:15:16,122 --> 00:15:18,262
ACTUAL PHYSICAL CIVIL WAR.
336
00:15:18,296 --> 00:15:21,334
THIS GENTLEMAN IN THIS PICTURE
IS A CAVALIER.
337
00:15:21,368 --> 00:15:24,061
HE FIGHTS FOR THE KING,
AND THE ARTIST
338
00:15:24,095 --> 00:15:26,615
IS BASICALLY SAYING THAT
WITH ALL OF HIS CLOTHES
339
00:15:26,649 --> 00:15:28,962
AND ALL OF HIS STYLING,
THE GENTLEMAN IS A TWIT
340
00:15:28,997 --> 00:15:31,620
BECAUSE LOOK
AT WHAT HE'S WEARING.
341
00:15:31,654 --> 00:15:34,312
THE KEY TELLS US THAT
HE'S WEARING A SILLY HAT.
342
00:15:34,347 --> 00:15:37,074
IT LOOKS LIKE A CLOSE STOOL PAN,
OR A TOILET PAN,
343
00:15:37,108 --> 00:15:39,697
SET ON THE TOP OF HIS NOODLE.
344
00:15:39,731 --> 00:15:41,285
IT SAYS HERE THAT HE'S WEARING
345
00:15:41,319 --> 00:15:45,703
"A LONG-WAISTED DOUBLET
UNBUTTONED HALFWAY"--
346
00:15:45,737 --> 00:15:47,325
NOW, THAT SHADES
OF SIMON COWELL--
347
00:15:47,360 --> 00:15:49,465
AND THE BUTTON'S
A BIT TOO OPEN ON THE SHIRT.
348
00:15:49,500 --> 00:15:52,089
HE'S GOT IN HIS HAND A STICK,
PLAYING WITH IT--
349
00:15:52,123 --> 00:15:54,712
WE KNOW WHAT THAT MEANS--
AND HE'S ALSO WEARING
350
00:15:54,746 --> 00:15:57,542
A GREAT, BIG PAIR OF SPURS.
351
00:15:57,577 --> 00:15:58,819
SO YOU HEAR HIM COMING ALONG.
352
00:15:58,854 --> 00:16:01,546
HE JINGLES LIKE A MORRIS DANCER
AS HE APPROACHES.
353
00:16:01,581 --> 00:16:05,136
SO BASICALLY, HE IS
ABSOLUTELY RIDICULOUS.
354
00:16:05,171 --> 00:16:09,002
NOW, THE LUXURIOUS CLOTHING
OF THE KING AND HIS CAVALIERS
355
00:16:09,037 --> 00:16:11,625
DID NOT LEAD DIRECTLY
TO THE CIVIL WAR,
356
00:16:11,660 --> 00:16:14,421
BUT NEGATIVE COMMENT
ABOUT THEIR WARDROBES
357
00:16:14,456 --> 00:16:17,597
OPENED THE WAY FOR OTHER
MUCH MORE SERIOUS COMPLAINTS
358
00:16:17,631 --> 00:16:20,600
THAT ENDED IN ARMED REBELLION.
359
00:16:20,634 --> 00:16:23,465
SO IT MIGHT SOUND SURPRISING
THAT RIGHT AT THE END
360
00:16:23,499 --> 00:16:27,331
OF CHARLES I's LIFE WHEN HE WAS
INCARCERATED AND AWAITING TRIAL,
361
00:16:27,365 --> 00:16:31,093
HE WAS STILL THINKING
ABOUT HIS WARDROBE.
362
00:16:31,128 --> 00:16:36,029
YOU MIGHT THINK THAT CHARLES I--
DEFEATED, IN PRISON--
363
00:16:36,064 --> 00:16:38,445
WOULD HAVE OTHER THINGS ON
HIS MIND APART FROM HIS CLOTHES,
364
00:16:38,480 --> 00:16:41,690
BUT WHEN HE HEARD
HE WAS TO BE BOUGHT TO LONDON
365
00:16:41,724 --> 00:16:43,623
FOR HIS TRAIL, WHAT DOES HE DO?
366
00:16:43,657 --> 00:16:45,659
HE ORDERS A NEW VELVET SUIT
367
00:16:45,694 --> 00:16:48,214
COVERED ALL OVER
IN GOLD EMBROIDERY.
368
00:16:48,248 --> 00:16:52,425
HE STILL WANTED TO MAKE A REGAL,
A KINGLY IMPRESSION.
369
00:16:52,459 --> 00:16:57,050
THE KING'S TRAIL ENDED WITH
THE ORDER FOR HIS EXECUTION.
370
00:16:57,085 --> 00:17:01,261
IT WAS TO TAKE PLACE
ON THE 30th OF JANUARY 1649.
371
00:17:01,296 --> 00:17:04,609
THAT MORNING,
HE DRESSED WITH GREAT CARE.
372
00:17:04,644 --> 00:17:08,268
HE PUT ON TWO SHIRTS BECAUSE
IT WAS VERY COLD THAT DAY
373
00:17:08,303 --> 00:17:10,167
AND HE DIDN'T WANT ANYBODY
374
00:17:10,201 --> 00:17:12,203
TO SEE HIM SHIVERING
ON THE SCAFFOLD.
375
00:17:12,238 --> 00:17:15,206
HE WAS BOUGHT HERE
TO THE PALACE OF WHITEHALL,
376
00:17:15,241 --> 00:17:18,244
AND HIS GUARDS MARCHED HIM
THROUGH THE GALLERIES,
377
00:17:18,278 --> 00:17:22,386
THROUGH THIS VERY DOOR
INTO THE BANQUETING HOUSE,
378
00:17:22,420 --> 00:17:25,768
THE LAST ROOM THAT CHARLES I
WOULD EVER SEE.
379
00:17:31,498 --> 00:17:34,329
THE KING WAS FROG-MARCHED
THROUGH THIS SPACE
380
00:17:34,363 --> 00:17:37,159
AND OUT THROUGH A HOLE
IN THE WALL THAT HAD BEEN MADE
381
00:17:37,194 --> 00:17:41,336
LEADING ONTO A SCAFFOLD ERECTED
IN THE STREET OUTSIDE.
382
00:17:41,370 --> 00:17:44,925
THERE HE SAID HIS LAST PRAYERS.
HE TOOK OFF HIS HAT.
383
00:17:44,960 --> 00:17:48,136
HE MOVED HIS LONG HAIR OUT
OF THE WAY TO BARE HIS NECK,
384
00:17:48,170 --> 00:17:51,898
AND HE GAVE HIS GLOVES
TO HIS FRIEND ARCHBISHOP JUXON.
385
00:17:51,932 --> 00:17:54,245
THEN HE KNELT DOWN
AND PUT HIS HEAD ON THE BLOCK.
386
00:17:54,280 --> 00:17:55,798
IT WAS VERY LOW.
387
00:17:55,833 --> 00:17:57,800
HE WAS ALMOST LYING
ON HIS STOMACH,
388
00:17:57,835 --> 00:18:00,734
AND THEN THE AX CAME DOWN.
389
00:18:02,529 --> 00:18:07,120
FASHION AND CLOTHING WERE
CENTRAL TO CHARLES I's KINGSHIP
390
00:18:07,155 --> 00:18:09,157
AND ITS POWER IS REVEALED
MOST FULLY
391
00:18:09,191 --> 00:18:13,506
BY WHAT HAPPENED TO HIS WARDROBE
FOLLOWING HIS EXECUTION.
392
00:18:13,540 --> 00:18:16,025
AFTER THE KING'S DEATH, THERE
WAS A GREAT DEAL OF INTEREST
393
00:18:16,060 --> 00:18:18,683
IN WHAT WAS GOING TO HAPPEN
TO HIS CLOTHES.
394
00:18:18,718 --> 00:18:22,584
PEOPLE STARTED TO COLLECT THEM,
AND SO WE HAVE THE CAP HE WORE
395
00:18:22,618 --> 00:18:25,863
WHEN HE WAS CAPTURED
BY THE PARLIAMENTARIANS.
396
00:18:25,897 --> 00:18:28,590
EVEN MORE EXCITINGLY,
WE'VE GOT FRAGMENTS
397
00:18:28,624 --> 00:18:31,662
OF THE CLOAK HE WORE
ON THE MORNING OF HIS EXECUTION
398
00:18:31,696 --> 00:18:34,837
AND THOSE GLOVES HE GAVE
TO ARCHBISHOP JUXON,
399
00:18:34,872 --> 00:18:37,219
WELL, HERE THEY ARE,
BUT HANG ON A MINUTE.
400
00:18:39,325 --> 00:18:42,466
THESE ARE ALSO SAID TO HAVE BEEN
THE GLOVES HE WORE
401
00:18:42,500 --> 00:18:45,848
ON THE MORNING OF THE EXECUTION,
AND IF YOU GO TO LAMBETH PALACE,
402
00:18:45,883 --> 00:18:48,679
WELL, THEY'VE GOT
A THIRD PAIR THERE.
403
00:18:48,713 --> 00:18:51,337
NOW CLEARLY, HE WASN'T WEARING
3 PAIRS OF GLOVES,
404
00:18:51,371 --> 00:18:54,236
AND CLEARLY NOT ALL
OF THESE THINGS CAN BE REAL,
405
00:18:54,271 --> 00:18:56,894
BUT THAT'S NOT REALLY THE POINT.
406
00:18:56,928 --> 00:19:00,380
TO THE SUPPORTERS
OF THE DEFEATED KING CHARLES,
407
00:19:00,415 --> 00:19:03,349
THESE ITEMS OF ROYAL CLOTHING
HAD SUCH POWER,
408
00:19:03,383 --> 00:19:07,042
THEY HAD SUCH SIGNIFICANCE,
THAT PEOPLE VENERATED THEM
409
00:19:07,076 --> 00:19:10,252
LIKE THE RELICS OF A HOLY SAINT.
410
00:19:12,461 --> 00:19:14,463
AFTER A BRIEF SPELL
WHEN IT SEEMED
411
00:19:14,498 --> 00:19:17,190
THAT THE MONARCHY WAS DEAD
AND BURIED FOREVER,
412
00:19:17,225 --> 00:19:22,333
CHARLES II EVENTUALLY RECLAIMED
HIS FATHER'S THRONE,
413
00:19:22,368 --> 00:19:24,922
BUT HIS NEW SUBJECTS NOTICED
THAT HE WAS ANXIOUS
414
00:19:24,956 --> 00:19:30,030
TO AVOID MAKING
THE SAME MISTAKES AS HIS FATHER.
415
00:19:30,065 --> 00:19:34,414
IN HIS DIARY FOR 1666,
SAMUEL PEPYS TELLS US
416
00:19:34,449 --> 00:19:37,486
ABOUT SOMETHING UNPRECEDENTED
THAT THE KING DID
417
00:19:37,521 --> 00:19:40,040
IN ONE OF HIS COUNCIL MEETINGS.
418
00:19:40,075 --> 00:19:43,561
CHARLES II HAD DECLARED
HIS RESOLUTION OF SETTING
419
00:19:43,596 --> 00:19:48,497
A BRAND NEW FASHION FOR CLOTHES
FOR EVERYBODY AT COURT.
420
00:19:48,532 --> 00:19:52,294
HE DID THIS TO TEACH
THE NOBILITY THRIFT,
421
00:19:52,329 --> 00:19:54,469
WHICH SAMUEL PEPYS
AND, PRESUMABLY,
422
00:19:54,503 --> 00:19:57,334
THE REST OF THE POPULATION
THOUGHT WAS A VERY GOOD THING.
423
00:19:58,714 --> 00:20:03,374
CHARLES II WAS INTRODUCING
A NEW KIND OF OUTFIT, THE SUIT,
424
00:20:03,409 --> 00:20:05,376
ALTHOUGH THE SUIT'S DECORATION
425
00:20:05,411 --> 00:20:07,827
COULD BE QUITE THE OPPOSITE
OF THRIFTY.
426
00:20:07,861 --> 00:20:10,968
SUSAN, THIS SUIT
IS COVERED
427
00:20:11,002 --> 00:20:12,832
ALL OVER WITH
SILVER EMBROIDERY.
428
00:20:12,866 --> 00:20:15,317
THAT'S A BIT OVER
THE TOP, ISN'T IT?
429
00:20:15,352 --> 00:20:18,251
WELL, IT WAS WORN FOR
AN IMPORTANT OCCASION
430
00:20:18,286 --> 00:20:21,323
BY THE BROTHER
OF CHARLES II JAMES
431
00:20:21,358 --> 00:20:23,394
WHEN HE WAS DUKE OF YORK
432
00:20:23,429 --> 00:20:26,294
WHEN HE MARRIED
IN 1673.
433
00:20:26,328 --> 00:20:28,365
IMAGINE HIM COMING
INTO A CANDLELIT ROOM.
434
00:20:28,399 --> 00:20:29,814
HE MUST HAVE
GLITTERED ALL OVER
435
00:20:29,849 --> 00:20:30,850
LIKE A
CHRISTMAS TREE.
436
00:20:30,884 --> 00:20:33,059
WELL, YES, AND PERHAPS
EVEN MORE SO
437
00:20:33,093 --> 00:20:35,717
WHEN THE COAT AND
BREECHES WERE FIRST MADE
438
00:20:35,751 --> 00:20:37,443
BECAUSE, OF COURSE,
THE METAL THREADS
439
00:20:37,477 --> 00:20:39,859
WERE THAT MUCH BRIGHTER
AND SPARKLING.
440
00:20:39,893 --> 00:20:44,588
MM. WHAT'S SO NEW ABOUT THIS
AS AN OUTFIT OF CLOTHES?
441
00:20:44,622 --> 00:20:47,522
WHAT'S REMARKABLE FOR,
UM, ROYAL DRESS
442
00:20:47,556 --> 00:20:50,179
IS THE FACT THAT IT'S
A COAT HE'S WEARING
443
00:20:50,214 --> 00:20:52,251
WITH HIS BREECHES,
AND NOT A DOUBLET.
444
00:20:52,285 --> 00:20:53,286
SO THE DOUBLET WOULD
HAVE BEEN THE TIGHT,
445
00:20:53,321 --> 00:20:56,565
LITTLE JACKET AND THEN
BIG, BAGGY BREECHES.
446
00:20:56,600 --> 00:20:59,016
YES. YES, AND THEN
THE DOUBLET BY THIS TIME
447
00:20:59,050 --> 00:21:01,570
SORT OF ENDS BARELY
AT THE WAISTLINE.
448
00:21:01,605 --> 00:21:04,435
SO PERHAPS, YOU KNOW,
IT WAS GOOD OPPORTUNITY
449
00:21:04,470 --> 00:21:08,508
FOR CHARLES TO KIND OF
SET SOMETHING NEW.
450
00:21:08,543 --> 00:21:10,648
MAYBE THE DOUBLET
WAS TOO REMINISCENT
451
00:21:10,683 --> 00:21:13,375
OF THE OLD COURT
OF HIS FATHER.
452
00:21:13,410 --> 00:21:17,517
HERE WAS A CHANCE
TO ESTABLISH A LOOK
453
00:21:17,552 --> 00:21:21,072
THAT WOULD BE UNIQUELY
IDENTIFIED WITH HIM,
454
00:21:21,107 --> 00:21:24,179
AN OUTFIT THAT EVERYBODY
WAS DESPERATE TO WEAR
455
00:21:24,213 --> 00:21:26,975
AND THINKS IS REALLY
COOL AND STYLISH.
456
00:21:27,009 --> 00:21:30,116
WHERE DID CHARLES II,
THEN, GET HIS FASHION SENSE?
457
00:21:30,150 --> 00:21:32,705
CLEARLY, HE WAS A
FASHIONABLE SORT OF FELLOW.
458
00:21:32,739 --> 00:21:35,811
WELL, UM, HE DID VERY
SIGNIFICANTLY SPEND TIME
459
00:21:35,846 --> 00:21:38,745
AT THE COURT
OF LOUIS XIV.
460
00:21:38,780 --> 00:21:40,782
YOU KNOW, LOUIS WAS
RECOGNIZED AS BEING
461
00:21:40,816 --> 00:21:43,198
THE STYLE LEADER FOR
ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING,
462
00:21:43,232 --> 00:21:46,270
INCLUDING CLOTHING, AND
WAS QUITE DICTATORIAL
463
00:21:46,305 --> 00:21:49,031
ABOUT WHAT PEOPLE
WERE ALLOWED TO WEAR
464
00:21:49,066 --> 00:21:51,137
AND HOW THEY WERE
TO PRESENT THEMSELVES.
465
00:21:51,171 --> 00:21:53,519
SURELY, EMULATING SOMEONE
WHO'S A BIT DICTATORIAL
466
00:21:53,553 --> 00:21:56,245
ABOUT FASHION ISN'T A VERY
GOOD IDEAL FOR CHARLES II,
467
00:21:56,280 --> 00:21:58,386
BECAUSE HE'S SEEN
HIS FATHER BE DICTATORIAL
468
00:21:58,420 --> 00:22:00,180
AND GET HIS HEAD
CHOPPED OFF AS A RESULT.
469
00:22:00,215 --> 00:22:01,596
WELL, CERTAINLY,
HE MUST HAVE TAKEN THAT
470
00:22:01,630 --> 00:22:04,150
INTO ACCOUNT, BUT
ON THE OTHER HAND,
471
00:22:04,184 --> 00:22:07,256
IT'S NOT SOMETHING
THAT'S DECREED.
472
00:22:07,291 --> 00:22:11,019
HE DOESN'T ENFORCE THE
WEARING OF THIS GARMENT.
473
00:22:11,053 --> 00:22:13,366
SO IS IT FAIR TO SAY
THAT LOUIS XIV IS GOING,
474
00:22:13,401 --> 00:22:15,472
"COURTIERS,
WEAR WHAT I WANT."
475
00:22:15,506 --> 00:22:17,750
HE'S USING THE FRENCH
STICK, IF YOU LIKE,
476
00:22:17,784 --> 00:22:20,166
AND THEN WE'VE GOT
CHARLES II IN LONDON
477
00:22:20,200 --> 00:22:22,271
MAKING EVERYBODY
WANT TO WEAR THE SUIT
478
00:22:22,306 --> 00:22:23,618
BECAUSE IT LOOKS
SO GOOD.
479
00:22:23,652 --> 00:22:25,067
HE'S USING THE CARROT.
480
00:22:25,102 --> 00:22:26,310
YES, ABSOLUTELY.
481
00:22:26,345 --> 00:22:27,656
WE'VE GOT
THE FRENCH STICK
482
00:22:27,691 --> 00:22:29,520
OR THE ENGLISH
CARROT.
483
00:22:29,555 --> 00:22:31,039
WHICH DO YOU PREFER?
484
00:22:31,073 --> 00:22:32,385
OH, WELL,
I THINK WE'D ALL GO
485
00:22:32,420 --> 00:22:33,800
FOR THE ENGLISH CARROT,
WOULDN'T WE?
486
00:22:33,835 --> 00:22:36,285
HA HA HA!
GOOD ANSWER.
487
00:22:44,535 --> 00:22:47,711
NOW, CHARLES II
MAY BE REMEMBERED
488
00:22:47,745 --> 00:22:50,369
AS THE JOLLY, OLD,
MERRY MONARCH,
489
00:22:50,403 --> 00:22:54,407
BUT I BELIEVE THAT HE WAS
A PARTICULARLY CANNY KING.
490
00:22:54,442 --> 00:22:58,446
HE CLEVERLY DISTANCED HIMSELF
FROM HIS FATHER CHARLES I
491
00:22:58,480 --> 00:23:01,552
AND ALSO FROM CONTEMPORARY
ABSOLUTIST MONARCHS
492
00:23:01,587 --> 00:23:04,762
LIKE LOUIS XIV,
AND CHARLES II MARKED
493
00:23:04,797 --> 00:23:07,524
A REAL TURNING POINT
FOR THE BRITISH MONARCHY.
494
00:23:07,558 --> 00:23:10,147
HIS PREDECESSORS HAD ALL
BELIEVED THAT THEY HAD
495
00:23:10,181 --> 00:23:13,012
A GOD-GIVEN RIGHT TO RULE,
496
00:23:13,046 --> 00:23:16,187
BUT FROM CHARLES II ONWARDS,
EVERY BRITISH MONARCH
497
00:23:16,222 --> 00:23:19,087
KNEW THAT HE OR SHE
WAS NO LONGER TOP DOG
498
00:23:19,121 --> 00:23:22,435
AND THAT HE OR SHE HAD TO RULE
BY PAYING A NOD
499
00:23:22,470 --> 00:23:24,920
TO THE POWER OF THEIR PEOPLE.
500
00:23:29,235 --> 00:23:32,203
AFTER THE CIVIL WAR,
CHARLES HAD REALIZED
501
00:23:32,238 --> 00:23:36,207
THAT MONARCHS COULD LONGER
POWER-DRESS LIKE ELIZABETH I
502
00:23:36,242 --> 00:23:39,418
BECAUSE THEY SIMPLY DIDN'T WIELD
AS MUCH POWER,
503
00:23:39,452 --> 00:23:43,042
BUT THEY WERE STILL LEFT
WITH THE POMP.
504
00:23:43,076 --> 00:23:46,217
AS A TRILOGY OF GEORGES
NAVIGATED THEIR WAY
505
00:23:46,252 --> 00:23:48,841
THROUGH THE 18th CENTURY,
GENTLEMEN SPORTED
506
00:23:48,875 --> 00:23:51,050
THE NEW SENSIBLE SUITS,
507
00:23:51,084 --> 00:23:54,087
WHILE LADIES
DID QUITE THE OPPOSITE.
508
00:23:54,122 --> 00:23:58,609
NOW, ELERI, WHAT IS THIS
EXTRAORDINARY OBJECT?
509
00:23:58,644 --> 00:24:01,094
THIS IS AN 18th-CENTURY
510
00:24:01,129 --> 00:24:03,545
VERSION OF AN UNDERSKIRT
511
00:24:03,580 --> 00:24:05,409
KNOWN AS A SIDE HOOP
OR PANNIERS,
512
00:24:05,444 --> 00:24:07,411
AND IT WAS WORN
TO CREATE
513
00:24:07,446 --> 00:24:09,448
A VERY EXTRAVAGANT
SKIRT SHAPE.
514
00:24:09,482 --> 00:24:11,553
SO MY BODY,
MY WAIST,
515
00:24:11,588 --> 00:24:14,245
GOES IN THAT HOLE
THERE, RIGHT?
516
00:24:14,280 --> 00:24:16,144
YOU STAND IN THERE,
AND THEN THIS DRAWSTRING
517
00:24:16,178 --> 00:24:17,283
GATHERS AROUND
YOUR WAIST.
518
00:24:17,317 --> 00:24:18,284
AND YOU TIE THAT UP?
519
00:24:18,318 --> 00:24:19,285
ABSOLUTELY.
520
00:24:19,319 --> 00:24:20,493
IS THIS WHALE BONE
UNDER HERE?
521
00:24:20,528 --> 00:24:21,494
YEAH.
522
00:24:21,529 --> 00:24:22,495
IT'S QUITE
A FLEXIBLE THING.
523
00:24:22,530 --> 00:24:24,359
EXACTLY AND WHAT
CREATES THE SHAPE.
524
00:24:24,393 --> 00:24:25,498
ALTHOUGH IT DOESN'T
LOOK VERY MUCH,
525
00:24:25,533 --> 00:24:28,225
IT'S ACTUALLY QUITE
A SPECIAL LUXURY GARMENT.
526
00:24:28,259 --> 00:24:30,261
AND IT'S AMAZING THAT
UNDERWEAR LIKE THIS
527
00:24:30,296 --> 00:24:31,780
SURVIVES FROM
THE 18th CENTURY.
528
00:24:31,815 --> 00:24:33,092
IT'S VERY RARE.
529
00:24:33,126 --> 00:24:35,922
AND WHAT KIND OF A DRESS
WOULD HAVE GONE ON TOP?
530
00:24:35,957 --> 00:24:38,477
AN EXTRAORDINARY DRESS
CALLED THE COURT MANTUA.
531
00:24:38,511 --> 00:24:39,892
TELL ME
ABOUT THIS, THEN.
532
00:24:39,926 --> 00:24:40,962
IT'S RIDICULOUS,
533
00:24:40,996 --> 00:24:42,411
THE SIZE AND THE SHAPE
OF THIS THING,
534
00:24:42,446 --> 00:24:44,448
IT MUST BE THE LEAST
PRACTICAL DRESS EVER.
535
00:24:44,483 --> 00:24:48,279
ABSOLUTELY, BUT THAT'S--
THAT'S SORT OF THE POINT,
536
00:24:48,314 --> 00:24:50,212
UM, IS THAT THE PERSON
WHO WAS WEARING THIS
537
00:24:50,247 --> 00:24:53,146
WAS OBVIOUSLY RICH ENOUGH
AND IMPORTANT ENOUGH
538
00:24:53,181 --> 00:24:55,321
NOT TO WEAR
PRACTICAL CLOTHES.
539
00:24:55,355 --> 00:24:57,357
YOU COULDN'T DO
A SHRED OF WORK IN THIS,
540
00:24:57,392 --> 00:24:58,945
AND, IN FACT,
YOU COULD BARELY MOVE.
541
00:24:58,980 --> 00:25:00,878
THEY WERE WEARING
THESE DRESSES
542
00:25:00,913 --> 00:25:02,949
AT THE GEORGIAN COURT,
AND IT BECAME
543
00:25:02,984 --> 00:25:04,779
SOMETHING OF A UNIFORM
DIDN'T THEY?
544
00:25:04,813 --> 00:25:05,849
THEY DID.
545
00:25:05,883 --> 00:25:07,298
IT WAS ACTUALLY PRESCRIBED,
AND THERE WERE
546
00:25:07,333 --> 00:25:09,542
VERY STRICT RULES
OF ETIQUETTE ABOUT
547
00:25:09,577 --> 00:25:12,407
WHAT SORTS OF DRESSES
UM, YOU SHOULD WEAR,
548
00:25:12,441 --> 00:25:14,789
AND WOMEN HAD
TO WEAR THESE MANTUAS
549
00:25:14,823 --> 00:25:17,377
PRETTY MUCH FOR MOST
OF THE 18th CENTURY.
550
00:25:17,412 --> 00:25:19,552
I'VE READ THAT THE
COURTIERS COMPLAINED
551
00:25:19,587 --> 00:25:21,416
ABOUT ALL THE RUFFLES
AND THE FRILLS
552
00:25:21,450 --> 00:25:22,969
GETTING IN THE WAY
OF ANY SORT
553
00:25:23,004 --> 00:25:24,695
OF ACTIVITY THEY
WANTED TO BE DOING.
554
00:25:24,730 --> 00:25:26,110
WHAT ABOUT THIS
PARTICULAR SILK
555
00:25:26,145 --> 00:25:27,111
THAT'S BEEN
WOVEN HERE?
556
00:25:27,146 --> 00:25:28,492
WHAT'S THE
SIGNIFICANCE OF IT?
557
00:25:28,527 --> 00:25:31,840
THIS PARTICULAR SILK
IS A VERY EXPENSIVE ONE
558
00:25:31,875 --> 00:25:35,085
BECAUSE OF THE COMPLEXITY
OF THE WEAVE.
559
00:25:35,119 --> 00:25:37,536
THERE AREN'T THAT MANY
REPEATING PATTERNS WITHIN IT,
560
00:25:37,570 --> 00:25:39,641
WHICH, TO THE
TRAINED EYE AT COURT,
561
00:25:39,676 --> 00:25:43,231
WOULD SIGNIFY A VERY
RARIFIED SENSIBILITY
562
00:25:43,265 --> 00:25:45,440
AND ALSO A LOT
OF MONEY.
563
00:25:45,474 --> 00:25:46,614
THIS ONE'S
PRETTY WIDE.
564
00:25:46,648 --> 00:25:49,478
IS THIS AS EXTREME
AS MANTUAS GET?
565
00:25:49,513 --> 00:25:52,240
YOU DID GET SKIRTS
THAT CAME OUT
566
00:25:52,274 --> 00:25:54,967
AT COMPLETE RIGHT ANGLES
TO THE WAIST
567
00:25:55,001 --> 00:25:56,071
AND THEN DOWN.
568
00:25:56,106 --> 00:25:57,245
A BIG,
WALKING OBLONG.
569
00:25:57,279 --> 00:25:58,246
ABSOLUTELY.
570
00:25:58,280 --> 00:25:59,247
DO YOU THINK, THEN--
571
00:25:59,281 --> 00:26:00,593
I GET THE SENSE
THAT BY THE LATE
572
00:26:00,628 --> 00:26:02,802
GEORGIAN PERIOD, GOING
TO COURT MUST HAVE BEEN
573
00:26:02,837 --> 00:26:04,597
A BIT LIKE GOING
TO THE ZOO.
574
00:26:04,632 --> 00:26:06,254
IT WAS LIKE THE
DINOSAURS ARE STILL
575
00:26:06,288 --> 00:26:08,221
WALKING THE EARTH
WEARING THESE CRAZY,
576
00:26:08,256 --> 00:26:10,154
OUTMODED DRESSES.
577
00:26:10,189 --> 00:26:13,261
BUT THAT WAS PART OF
MAINTAINING AT COURT
578
00:26:13,295 --> 00:26:16,747
THIS SPLENDOR OF
THE 18th CENTURY BECAUSE
579
00:26:16,782 --> 00:26:19,543
EVERYTHING ABOUT THE COURT
AND SOCIETY HAD CHANGED
580
00:26:19,578 --> 00:26:21,545
SO MUCH DURING THAT
CENTURY THAT IT WAS
581
00:26:21,580 --> 00:26:23,961
A WAY OF PRESERVING
IN ASPIC
582
00:26:23,996 --> 00:26:27,344
THE CEREMONY
ASSOCIATED WITH COURT.
583
00:26:38,079 --> 00:26:43,015
THIS HAS TO BE THE WORLD'S
LEAST PRACTICAL DRESS.
584
00:26:46,674 --> 00:26:49,262
WHEN YOU CAME TO COURT,
YOU HAD TO FOLLOW
585
00:26:49,297 --> 00:26:52,300
A EXTREMELY STRICT CODE
OF BEHAVIOR.
586
00:26:52,334 --> 00:26:56,062
YOU'D BE COACHED BEFOREHAND
BY YOUR DANCING MASTER.
587
00:26:56,097 --> 00:26:58,547
SO ONE COURT LADY TELLS US
THAT IF A HAIRPIN
588
00:26:58,582 --> 00:27:01,205
WAS PRICKING YOUR SCALP,
YOU COULDN'T PULL IT OUT.
589
00:27:01,240 --> 00:27:03,483
YOU HAD TO PUT UP WITH THE PAIN.
590
00:27:03,518 --> 00:27:05,485
IF IT GOT REALLY BAD,
591
00:27:05,520 --> 00:27:08,178
THEN YOU COULD BITE
THE INSIDE OF YOUR CHEEK
592
00:27:08,212 --> 00:27:11,146
AND SWALLOW THE BLOOD
AS A DIVERSION.
593
00:27:11,181 --> 00:27:13,597
SO WHAT WERE THE RULES
OF WEARING A DRESS LIKE THIS?
594
00:27:13,632 --> 00:27:16,496
WELL, FIRSTLY, THERE WERE
NO CHAIRS IN THE ROOM.
595
00:27:16,531 --> 00:27:20,086
IT'S CONTRARY TO ETIQUETTE TO
SIT DOWN IN THE ROYAL PRESENCE.
596
00:27:20,121 --> 00:27:23,055
SO YOU HAD TO STAND FOR HOURS
IN YOUR HEAVY HOOPS
597
00:27:23,089 --> 00:27:26,334
AND ALSO
IN YOUR HIGH-HEELED SHOES.
598
00:27:26,368 --> 00:27:28,094
MUSTN'T CROSS YOUR ARMS.
599
00:27:28,129 --> 00:27:30,890
THAT'S A COMPLETE NO-NO,
AS IS TURNING YOUR BACK
600
00:27:30,925 --> 00:27:33,168
ON THE KING OR QUEEN.
601
00:27:33,203 --> 00:27:36,551
IF YOU WANTED TO LEAVE THE ROOM,
YOU HAD TO ASK PERMISSION,
602
00:27:36,585 --> 00:27:40,520
AND IF IT WAS GIVEN,
YOU HAD TO CURTSY 3 TIMES
603
00:27:40,555 --> 00:27:44,386
AND THEN BACK OUT OF THE ROOM
AVOIDING COLLISIONS
604
00:27:44,421 --> 00:27:46,561
WITH OTHER LADIES IN THEIR HOOPS
605
00:27:46,595 --> 00:27:49,150
AND GETTING YOURSELF
STRAIGHT OUT OF THE DOOR.
606
00:27:49,184 --> 00:27:51,462
EVERYBODY WANTS TO KNOW
HOW THE COURT LADIES
607
00:27:51,497 --> 00:27:53,982
WENT TO THE LOO,
AND THE ANSWER IS,
608
00:27:54,017 --> 00:27:56,191
THEY'RE NOT YET
WEARING KNICKERS,
609
00:27:56,226 --> 00:27:57,296
WHICH HAVEN'T BEEN INVENTED.
610
00:27:57,330 --> 00:27:59,712
SO THEY ARE ABLE TO USE
THE CHAMBER POT,
611
00:27:59,747 --> 00:28:02,266
BUT TO DO THIS, YOU'RE SUPPOSED
TO ASK FOR PERMISSION
612
00:28:02,301 --> 00:28:03,992
AND WITHDRAW TO THE ANTEROOM,
613
00:28:04,027 --> 00:28:07,168
AND PERMISSION
IS NOT NECESSARILY FORTHCOMING.
614
00:28:07,202 --> 00:28:10,827
ONCE, ONE OF QUEEN CAROLINE'S
LADIES WAS REFUSED PERMISSION
615
00:28:10,861 --> 00:28:15,763
TO WITHDRAW, AND A FEW MINUTES
LATER, A HUMILIATING PUDDLE
616
00:28:15,797 --> 00:28:18,766
APPEARED FROM
UNDERNEATH HER MANTUA,
617
00:28:18,800 --> 00:28:21,044
AND--THIS IS
THE CONTEMPORARY QUOTATION--
618
00:28:21,078 --> 00:28:25,600
IT "THREATENED THE SHOES
OF BYSTANDERS."
619
00:28:29,915 --> 00:28:32,365
BY THE END OF THE 18th CENTURY,
620
00:28:32,400 --> 00:28:35,644
COURTLY DRESS HAD BECOME
A SOURCE OF DERISION.
621
00:28:35,679 --> 00:28:38,717
THE ROYAL WARDROBE WAS BECOMING
LESS AND LESS RELEVANT
622
00:28:38,751 --> 00:28:43,756
TO THE OUTSIDE WORLD, AND SO,
TOO, WAS THE MONARCHY ITSELF.
623
00:28:43,791 --> 00:28:46,069
THE POPULATION MIGHT
HAVE LAUGHED A LOT MORE
624
00:28:46,103 --> 00:28:48,174
IF THE ROYAL JOKE HADN'T BEEN
625
00:28:48,209 --> 00:28:51,177
QUITE LITERALLY
AT THEIR EXPENSE.
626
00:28:52,938 --> 00:28:56,113
THIS IS THE PRINCE REGENT,
627
00:28:56,148 --> 00:28:57,874
THE FUTURE GEORGE IV,
628
00:28:57,908 --> 00:29:00,877
STANDING IN FOR HIS DAD
WHILE HE WAS MAD.
629
00:29:00,911 --> 00:29:02,257
YOU MAY REMEMBER HIM
630
00:29:02,292 --> 00:29:04,984
AS THE HUGH LAURIE CHARACTER
IN "BLACKADDER,"
631
00:29:05,019 --> 00:29:06,779
IN OTHER WORDS, A BIT OF A TWIT.
632
00:29:06,814 --> 00:29:09,299
WHEN HE FINALLY BECAME KING
IN 1820,
633
00:29:09,333 --> 00:29:11,370
HE PUT ON THE MOST
WONDERFUL CORONATION.
634
00:29:11,404 --> 00:29:15,063
IT WAS AN ENORMOUS SPECTACLE
THAT EVERYBODY ENJOYED
635
00:29:15,098 --> 00:29:17,445
UNTIL THEY DISCOVERED
HOW MUCH IT HAD COST.
636
00:29:17,479 --> 00:29:20,310
HE SPENT ยฃ25,000 ON HIS ROBES
637
00:29:20,344 --> 00:29:22,968
THAT HE ONLY WORE
FOR A FEW HOURS.
638
00:29:23,002 --> 00:29:26,626
GEORGE IV
WAS A VERY STYLISH MAN.
639
00:29:26,661 --> 00:29:30,838
AS HIS WIFE SAID, IT WAS JUST
A SHAME THAT HE HAD TO BE KING.
640
00:29:30,872 --> 00:29:33,633
HE WOULD HAVE MADE
A MUCH BETTER HAIRDRESSER.
641
00:29:59,659 --> 00:30:01,869
NOW, IF I HAD TO
IMAGINE THE SLIPPERS
642
00:30:01,903 --> 00:30:04,112
OF THAT BLING LOVER
GEORGE IV,
643
00:30:04,147 --> 00:30:05,838
THIS IS WHAT I WOULD
COME UP WITH.
644
00:30:05,873 --> 00:30:08,530
YEAH, DEFINITELY,
AND I LIKE HOW THEY MATCH
645
00:30:08,565 --> 00:30:10,360
THE PINK, SORT OF
SALMON PINKY LINING,
646
00:30:10,394 --> 00:30:11,706
TO THE SILVER TOPS.
647
00:30:11,740 --> 00:30:13,294
OH, LOOK. THERE'S
A PINK LINING, AS WELL--
648
00:30:13,328 --> 00:30:14,985
LOOK AT THAT--
AND THEY GLITTER,
649
00:30:15,020 --> 00:30:16,228
AND YOU'VE GOT
A MATCHING
650
00:30:16,262 --> 00:30:17,539
GOLD PAIR
OVER THERE.
651
00:30:17,574 --> 00:30:21,233
YES, WITH A YELLOW LINING,
AND THEN, MOST IMPORTANTLY,
652
00:30:21,267 --> 00:30:24,926
WE HAVE GEORGE'S
ACTUAL CORONATION SHOES.
653
00:30:24,961 --> 00:30:26,790
THE MOMENT
OF BECOMING KING,
654
00:30:26,825 --> 00:30:28,516
HE WAS WEARING
THESE SHOES,
655
00:30:28,550 --> 00:30:31,588
AND THEY'RE SILVER
AGAIN, AND THEY HAVE
656
00:30:31,622 --> 00:30:34,936
THE LITTLE, RED
HEELS OF ROYALTY.
657
00:30:34,971 --> 00:30:36,558
NOW, THIS WAS
THE GREATEST SHOW
658
00:30:36,593 --> 00:30:37,836
ON EARTH, WASN'T IT?
659
00:30:37,870 --> 00:30:38,906
TELL ME A BIT MORE
ABOUT IT.
660
00:30:38,940 --> 00:30:40,390
I THINK IT LOOKED
SPECTACULAR,
661
00:30:40,424 --> 00:30:42,323
BUT I THINK IT ALSO
LOOKED A BIT STRANGE
662
00:30:42,357 --> 00:30:45,567
BECAUSE WHAT GEORGE DID,
HE MADE ALL THE COURTIERS
663
00:30:45,602 --> 00:30:48,743
WEAR SOME SORT OF HISTORIC
FANCY DRESS OUTFIT,
664
00:30:48,777 --> 00:30:50,745
SOME SORT OF
TUDOR/STUART NUMBER.
665
00:30:50,779 --> 00:30:52,885
WAS THIS DIGNIFIED
FOR A POOR, AGED PEER
666
00:30:52,920 --> 00:30:54,922
WITH KNOBLY KNEES
TO BE SENT OUT
667
00:30:54,956 --> 00:30:56,440
IN WHITE STOCKINGS?
668
00:30:56,475 --> 00:30:57,925
I--
PROBABLY NOT.
669
00:30:57,959 --> 00:30:59,478
I MEAN, I GUESS
THEY WEREN'T ALL OLD.
670
00:30:59,512 --> 00:31:01,342
THERE WERE
PROBABLY SOME MEN
671
00:31:01,376 --> 00:31:03,723
WITH REALLY NICE
KNEES AND NICE LEGS,
672
00:31:03,758 --> 00:31:06,795
UM, BUT IT HAS AN AIR
OF SORT OF THEATER
673
00:31:06,830 --> 00:31:09,212
FANCY DRESS
ABOUT IT, I THINK.
674
00:31:09,246 --> 00:31:11,524
DID THEY HAVE TO PAY
FOR THEIR OWN COSTUMES?
675
00:31:11,559 --> 00:31:13,630
AS FAR AS I
UNDERSTAND, THEY DID.
676
00:31:13,664 --> 00:31:15,528
I'VE READ SOMEWHERE
THAT ONE OF THESE
677
00:31:15,563 --> 00:31:17,772
COULD COST UP
TO ABOUT ยฃ250.
678
00:31:17,806 --> 00:31:19,084
THAT'S A LOT OF MONEY.
679
00:31:19,118 --> 00:31:20,706
WHAT DID PEOPLE
REALLY THINK
680
00:31:20,740 --> 00:31:23,191
OF GEORGES'
LOVE OF CLOTHES?
681
00:31:23,226 --> 00:31:25,745
I THINK THEY THOUGHT
IT WAS A BIT UNDIGNIFIED.
682
00:31:25,780 --> 00:31:28,576
FOR A KING, YOU SHOULD
MAYBE OCCUPY YOUR THOUGHTS
683
00:31:28,610 --> 00:31:30,681
WITH OTHER THINGS
THAN THE CUT
684
00:31:30,716 --> 00:31:32,752
OF YOUR PANTALOONS
OR YOUR CRAVATS.
685
00:31:32,787 --> 00:31:35,031
HE WAS TOO BUSY FUSSING
AROUND WITH HIS BUTTONS.
686
00:31:35,065 --> 00:31:37,826
I THINK THAT MAY BE WAS
WHAT A LOT OF PEOPLE THOUGHT.
687
00:31:37,861 --> 00:31:39,690
WHAT HAPPENED TO HIS
FABULOUS WARDROBE
688
00:31:39,725 --> 00:31:41,244
AFTER HE DIED?
689
00:31:41,278 --> 00:31:42,693
WELL, QUITE A LOT
WAS SOLD OFF.
690
00:31:42,728 --> 00:31:46,042
UM, SO WE HAPPEN TO HAVE
AN AUCTION CATALOG
691
00:31:46,076 --> 00:31:47,940
WHICH LISTS SOME
OF THE THINGS HE HAD.
692
00:31:47,975 --> 00:31:51,737
HE HAD 28 WHITE WAISTCOATS,
OF WHICH WE HAVE 3.
693
00:31:51,771 --> 00:31:53,808
BUT WHY DID HE NEED
28 WHITE WAISTCOATS?
694
00:31:53,842 --> 00:31:54,809
WELL, THAT'S
A GOOD QUESTION.
695
00:31:54,843 --> 00:31:56,811
WHY DOES ANYONE
NEED 28 WAISTCOATS?
696
00:31:57,950 --> 00:32:01,264
ONE OF THEM IS HERE,
AND IF YOU OPEN IT UP,
697
00:32:01,298 --> 00:32:05,233
YOU CAN ACTUALLY SEE IT SAYS
HERE P.R. FOR PRINCE REGENT,
698
00:32:05,268 --> 00:32:06,752
AND YOU CAN SEE
HOW BIG IT IS...
699
00:32:06,786 --> 00:32:07,960
IT'S LARGE.
700
00:32:07,995 --> 00:32:10,031
BUT WHAT IS REALLY
BIZARRE IN HERE,
701
00:32:10,066 --> 00:32:12,275
THERE IS ONE LOT
THAT YOU COULD BUY--
702
00:32:12,309 --> 00:32:15,761
TWO MASQUERADE NUNS DRESSES
AND A RED PETTICOAT.
703
00:32:15,795 --> 00:32:17,418
WHAT WAS DOING WITH
THE NUN'S DRESSES?
704
00:32:17,452 --> 00:32:19,972
I HAVE ABSOLUTELY
NO IDEA.
705
00:32:20,007 --> 00:32:22,147
MAYBE HE WENT SOMEWHERE
DRESSED UP AS A NUN.
706
00:32:22,181 --> 00:32:24,943
OH, THAT'S A BRILLIANT
IMAGE, ISN'T IT? HA HA!
707
00:32:24,977 --> 00:32:26,806
RATHER LARGE NUN.
708
00:32:29,016 --> 00:32:31,466
WORSLEY: ALL THIS MEANT
THAT WHEN THE KING DIED,
709
00:32:31,501 --> 00:32:33,917
HE WASN'T MUCH MOURNED.
710
00:32:33,952 --> 00:32:36,989
THIS BOOK WRITTEN ABOUT HIM
THE YEAR AFTER HIS DEATH
711
00:32:37,024 --> 00:32:40,717
SAYS THAT TO GEORGE IV,
"THE CUT OF A COAT
712
00:32:40,751 --> 00:32:43,064
"BECAME OF GREATER CONSEQUENCE
713
00:32:43,099 --> 00:32:46,240
THAN THE AMELIORATION
OF THE CONDITION OF IRELAND."
714
00:32:46,274 --> 00:32:49,968
HE CARED MORE ABOUT
"THE TIE OF THE NECKCLOTH"
715
00:32:50,002 --> 00:32:53,109
THAN HE DID ABOUT
PARLIAMENTARY REFORM.
716
00:32:53,143 --> 00:32:55,180
INSTEAD OF GOVERNING
THE COUNTRY,
717
00:32:55,214 --> 00:32:57,768
HE'D SPEND ALL MORNING TALKING
WITH HIS TAILOR
718
00:32:57,803 --> 00:33:00,633
ABOUT THE MERITS
"OF LOOSE TROUSERS"
719
00:33:00,668 --> 00:33:03,084
OVER "TIGHT PANTALOONS."
720
00:33:03,119 --> 00:33:06,846
HIS OBITUARY IN THE "TIMES"
NEWSPAPER CLAIMED
721
00:33:06,881 --> 00:33:09,953
THAT NEVER WAS AN INDIVIDUAL
REGRETTED LESS
722
00:33:09,988 --> 00:33:13,646
BY HIS PEOPLE
THAN THIS DECEASED KING.
723
00:33:13,681 --> 00:33:17,064
WHAT EYE HAS WEPT FOR HIM?
724
00:33:20,550 --> 00:33:25,037
GEORGE IV WAS THE LEAST POPULAR
KING SINCE CHARLES I,
725
00:33:25,072 --> 00:33:28,489
AND HIS WASTEFUL AND EGOTISTICAL
ATTITUDE TO CLOTHES
726
00:33:28,523 --> 00:33:31,009
WAS ONE OF THE REASONS
THAT THE MONARCHY'S IMAGE
727
00:33:31,043 --> 00:33:35,047
REACHED SUCH A LOW POINT
IN THE EARLY 19th CENTURY.
728
00:33:35,082 --> 00:33:37,981
AN INCREASINGLY CRITICAL PRESS
MEANT THAT PEOPLE
729
00:33:38,016 --> 00:33:41,812
WERE MORE AWARE THAN EVER
OF WHAT THE ROYALS WERE UP TO,
730
00:33:41,847 --> 00:33:45,816
YET THE MONARCHY'S STATUS
WAS ABOUT TO BE TRANSFORMED
731
00:33:45,851 --> 00:33:48,992
BY A RATHER UNLIKELY FIGURE.
732
00:33:49,027 --> 00:33:52,927
IF YOU WERE ASKED TO NAME
THE MOST CLOTHES-OBSESSED,
733
00:33:52,961 --> 00:33:55,205
IMAGE-CONSCIOUS KING OR QUEEN,
734
00:33:55,240 --> 00:33:58,346
YOU PROBABLY WOULDN'T
COME UP WITH QUEEN VICTORIA.
735
00:33:58,381 --> 00:34:00,866
MOST PEOPLE THINK OF HER
AS A LITTLE, OLD LADY
736
00:34:00,900 --> 00:34:04,007
DRESSED IN BLACK,
LOOKING LIKE A POTATO,
737
00:34:04,042 --> 00:34:07,459
BUT ACTUALLY, SHE LOVED CLOTHES,
AND QUEEN VICTORIA
738
00:34:07,493 --> 00:34:11,290
IS THE WOMAN WHO GAVE US
THE WHITE WEDDING DRESS.
739
00:34:11,325 --> 00:34:14,776
VICTORIA MAY BE REMEMBERED
AS THE WIDOW IN BLACK,
740
00:34:14,811 --> 00:34:17,020
BUT AT HER WEDDING,
SHE ABANDONED THE CONVENTION
741
00:34:17,055 --> 00:34:19,160
OF WEARING ROYAL ROBES.
742
00:34:19,195 --> 00:34:21,093
SHE CHOSE INSTEAD
A WHITE DRESS
743
00:34:21,128 --> 00:34:24,096
AND EVEN DESIGNED
HER BRIDESMAIDS' OUTFITS,
744
00:34:24,131 --> 00:34:28,445
BUT IT WASN'T ALL BLACK AND
WHITE IN VICTORIA'S WARDROBE.
745
00:34:28,480 --> 00:34:30,240
DEIDRE, THIS
IS NOT OUR IDEA
746
00:34:30,275 --> 00:34:32,311
OF QUEEN VICTORIA,
IS IT?
747
00:34:32,346 --> 00:34:33,657
SHE'S PRETTY SHORT,
AND SHE'S PRETTY
748
00:34:33,692 --> 00:34:35,003
TEENY TINY
AROUND THE WAIST.
749
00:34:35,038 --> 00:34:36,281
LOOK HOW SMALL
THAT IS.
750
00:34:36,315 --> 00:34:37,627
SHE IS. WELL, SHE
WORE THIS DRESS
751
00:34:37,661 --> 00:34:39,042
WHEN SHE WAS ABOUT
752
00:34:39,077 --> 00:34:40,423
16 YEARS OLD.
753
00:34:40,457 --> 00:34:42,080
SO IT IS PRETTY
TEENY TINY.
754
00:34:42,114 --> 00:34:44,185
IT'S SO CUTE.
IT IS CUTE.
755
00:34:44,220 --> 00:34:47,395
SHE WAS 5' 1 3/4",
756
00:34:47,430 --> 00:34:50,329
AND THE SLEEVES ARE
VERY BEAUTIFULLY PUFFED,
757
00:34:50,364 --> 00:34:53,091
AS ANY 1830s
EVENING GOWN WOULD BE.
758
00:34:53,125 --> 00:34:55,472
THE SILHOUETTE OF THE DRESS
IS ALSO OFF THE SHOULDER
759
00:34:55,507 --> 00:34:58,303
AND CREATES A VERY BEAUTIFUL
LINE AROUND HER NECKLINE.
760
00:34:58,337 --> 00:35:00,236
IT'S POSSIBLE
SHE WORE IT
761
00:35:00,270 --> 00:35:01,996
THE FIRST TIME SHE
MET PRINCE ALBERT.
762
00:35:02,030 --> 00:35:03,860
THAT'S SO ROMANTIC.
763
00:35:03,894 --> 00:35:06,242
WHAT DO YOU THINK
SHE THOUGHT OF FASHION?
764
00:35:06,276 --> 00:35:07,657
BECAUSE SHE REALLY
DOESN'T HAVE A PLACE
765
00:35:07,691 --> 00:35:09,141
ON THE BEST-DRESSED LIST
766
00:35:09,176 --> 00:35:10,970
OF QUEENS OF HISTORY,
DOES SHE?
767
00:35:11,005 --> 00:35:13,801
SHE WAS CERTAINLY VERY,
VERY INTERESTED IN FASHION
768
00:35:13,835 --> 00:35:16,286
AND EXTREMELY AWARE
OF THE POWER
769
00:35:16,321 --> 00:35:19,082
THAT FASHION HAD IN
SHAPING PUBLIC OPINION.
770
00:35:19,117 --> 00:35:21,740
FOR BIG PUBLIC OCCASIONS,
SHE ALWAYS WORE BRITISH,
771
00:35:21,774 --> 00:35:23,638
AND THAT WAS SOMETHING
THAT WAS ALWAYS
772
00:35:23,673 --> 00:35:25,847
CLEARLY IDENTIFIED
IN NEWSPAPER ARTICLES
773
00:35:25,882 --> 00:35:28,436
DESCRIBING HER CLOTHES
FOR ANY PARTICULAR EVENT.
774
00:35:28,471 --> 00:35:29,817
DO YOU THINK
THAT QUEEN VICTORIA
775
00:35:29,851 --> 00:35:31,715
SELF-CONSCIOUSLY
CONSTRUCTED HER IMAGE?
776
00:35:31,750 --> 00:35:32,958
DEFINITELY.
777
00:35:32,992 --> 00:35:34,753
SHE WAS ABSOLUTELY
OBSESSED WITH THEATER
778
00:35:34,787 --> 00:35:36,720
TO THE POINT WHERE
SHE ACTUALLY DRESSED
779
00:35:36,755 --> 00:35:39,758
HER FAMILY
AND FRIENDS, AS WELL.
780
00:35:39,792 --> 00:35:43,693
SO SAY, FOR INSTANCE, UM,
THIS IS THE CHRISTENING
781
00:35:43,727 --> 00:35:46,351
OF PRINCESS VICKY,
HER ELDEST DAUGHTER,
782
00:35:46,385 --> 00:35:48,560
AND YOU CAN SEE
THAT THE QUEEN IS HERE
783
00:35:48,594 --> 00:35:50,424
WEARING A VERY
MAGNIFICENT DRESS
784
00:35:50,458 --> 00:35:53,427
IN SILVER AND GOLD,
LOOKING VERY QUEENLIKE,
785
00:35:53,461 --> 00:35:56,533
BUT IT'S ALSO A VERY SPECIAL
GROUP, UM, DISTINGUISHED
786
00:35:56,568 --> 00:36:00,744
BY THEIR UNIFIED CLOTHING
IN SILVER, GOLD, AND WHITE,
787
00:36:00,779 --> 00:36:03,954
AND AGAIN, WHEN QUEEN VICTORIA
VISITED SCOTLAND IN 1842,
788
00:36:03,989 --> 00:36:08,683
SHE WENT TO DRUMMOND CASTLE
FOR THIS ENORMOUS BALL
789
00:36:08,718 --> 00:36:11,479
WHERE EVERYONE WORE TARTAN
EXCEPT FOR HER.
790
00:36:11,514 --> 00:36:14,206
OH! IT SAYS HERE,
"HER DRESS WAS COMPOSED
791
00:36:14,241 --> 00:36:17,002
OF RICH SPITALFIELDS
SILK OF A PALE PINK."
792
00:36:17,036 --> 00:36:18,003
ARE YOU SAYING THAT
793
00:36:18,037 --> 00:36:19,591
SHE OUTCLASSED
EVERYBODY ELSE?
794
00:36:19,625 --> 00:36:21,938
NOT NECESSARILY THAT SHE
OUTCLASSED EVERYONE ELSE,
795
00:36:21,972 --> 00:36:24,389
BUT SHE'S CERTAINLY
DRESSING TO STAND OUT HERE.
796
00:36:24,423 --> 00:36:26,563
SHE HAD WORN TARTAN
THROUGHOUT THE ENTIRE
797
00:36:26,598 --> 00:36:28,772
VISIT TO SCOTLAND
IN 1842.
798
00:36:28,807 --> 00:36:30,912
FOR DAYS ON END,
SHE'S DRESSED FROM HEAD
799
00:36:30,947 --> 00:36:34,226
TO TOE IN TARTAN, AND ON
THE BIGGEST, BIGGEST DAY
800
00:36:34,261 --> 00:36:36,746
OF THE ENTIRE VISIT,
SHE DECIDES TO WEAR
801
00:36:36,780 --> 00:36:39,680
PALE PINK IN FRONT
OF A BACKDROP OF TARTAN.
802
00:36:39,714 --> 00:36:42,096
MM, THAT SOUNDS RATHER
LOVELY, DOESN'T IT?
803
00:36:43,753 --> 00:36:46,583
WORSLEY: MICROMANAGING HER OWN
AND HER FAMILY'S WARDROBE
804
00:36:46,618 --> 00:36:50,000
HELPED QUEEN VICTORIA TO WIN
OVER THE HEARTS OF HER PEOPLE
805
00:36:50,035 --> 00:36:53,763
AND TO MAKE THE MONARCHY
POPULAR ONCE AGAIN.
806
00:36:53,797 --> 00:36:57,491
VICTORIA UNDERSTOOD NOT ONLY
THE POWER OF DRESS,
807
00:36:57,525 --> 00:37:01,080
BUT ALSO THE POWER OF THE PRESS.
808
00:37:01,115 --> 00:37:04,360
HERE'S A LETTER
FROM QUEEN VICTORIA TO HER SON
809
00:37:04,394 --> 00:37:07,777
ABOUT HER BELIEF
IN THE POWER OF DRESS.
810
00:37:07,811 --> 00:37:11,263
SHE SAYS, "IT'S THE ONE
OUTWARD SIGN FROM WHICH PEOPLE
811
00:37:11,298 --> 00:37:12,954
"CAN AND OFTEN DO JUDGE
812
00:37:12,989 --> 00:37:16,510
"THE INWARD STATE OF MIND
OF A PERSON,
813
00:37:16,544 --> 00:37:19,064
"AND IT'S OF
PARTICULAR IMPORTANCE
814
00:37:19,098 --> 00:37:20,962
IN PERSONS OF HIGH RANK."
815
00:37:20,997 --> 00:37:25,484
SO SHE SAYS TO HIM, "WE DO
EXPECT THAT YOU WILL NEVER WEAR
816
00:37:25,519 --> 00:37:30,662
ANYTHING EXTRAVAGANT OR SLANG,"
AS SHE PUTS IT, TOO CASUAL,
817
00:37:30,696 --> 00:37:33,354
"BECAUSE THAT WOULD PROVE
A WANT OF SELF-RESPECT
818
00:37:33,389 --> 00:37:36,461
AND BE AN OFFENSE
AGAINST DECENCY."
819
00:37:37,669 --> 00:37:39,187
LIKE ELIZABETH I,
820
00:37:39,222 --> 00:37:41,397
VICTORIA MADE CAREFUL
CLOTHING CHOICES
821
00:37:41,431 --> 00:37:43,122
THAT PLAYED WELL TO HER PEOPLE,
822
00:37:43,157 --> 00:37:47,679
AND, LIKE ELIZABETH, VICTORIA
ENJOYED A LONG AND STABLE REIGN.
823
00:37:47,713 --> 00:37:50,509
SHE KNEW THAT HER DRESSES
WOULD MAKE THEIR IMPACT
824
00:37:50,544 --> 00:37:52,718
THROUGH NEWSPAPER REPORTS.
825
00:37:52,753 --> 00:37:56,032
WITH EXPANDING READERSHIPS AND
THE INTRODUCTION OF PHOTOGRAPHY,
826
00:37:56,066 --> 00:37:58,483
SHE, HER FAMILY,
AND THEIR DECEDENTS
827
00:37:58,517 --> 00:38:02,003
WOULD BE UNDER CLOSER SCRUTINY
THAN EVER BEFORE,
828
00:38:02,038 --> 00:38:05,317
BUT SOME OF HER SUCCESSORS
WERE LESS PRUDENT,
829
00:38:05,352 --> 00:38:08,838
AND THE RESULTS FOR THE MONARCHY
WERE NEARLY CATASTROPHIC.
830
00:38:11,461 --> 00:38:15,810
THIS IS A GENTLEMAN'S SUIT
FROM THE 1930s.
831
00:38:15,845 --> 00:38:19,158
NOW, YOU MIGHT THINK
THAT IT'S A BIT LOUD.
832
00:38:19,193 --> 00:38:21,989
LOOK AT THIS HOUNDSTOOTH
IN THE TWEED,
833
00:38:22,023 --> 00:38:24,509
AND YOU CAN IMAGINE
BERTIE WOOSTER, PERHAPS,
834
00:38:24,543 --> 00:38:26,511
GOING OUT IN A SUIT LIKE THIS,
835
00:38:26,545 --> 00:38:29,859
BUT IT ISN'T ACTUALLY OFFENSIVE
TO OUR EYES.
836
00:38:29,893 --> 00:38:32,275
AT THE TIME, THOUGH,
THE ESTABLISHMENT THOUGHT
837
00:38:32,310 --> 00:38:36,728
THAT THIS SUIT WAS SCANDALOUS,
AS THEY DID ALSO ITS OWNER,
838
00:38:36,762 --> 00:38:38,730
WHO WAS EDWARD VIII.
839
00:38:40,421 --> 00:38:41,974
EDWARD VIII's APPROACH
TO CLOTHING
840
00:38:42,009 --> 00:38:44,563
WAS RATHER LIKE GEORGE IV's.
841
00:38:44,598 --> 00:38:48,429
HIS RELATIONSHIP WITH THE
AMERICAN DIVORCEE WALLIS SIMPSON
842
00:38:48,464 --> 00:38:51,950
WAS THE REAL REASON
THAT HE ABDICATED IN 1936,
843
00:38:51,984 --> 00:38:54,608
BUT EDWARD'S PLAYBOY LIFESTYLE
844
00:38:54,642 --> 00:38:57,369
AND THE WARDROBE
THAT HE FAVORED--
845
00:38:57,404 --> 00:38:59,854
HERE AT HIS GOLF CLUB,
FOR EXAMPLE==
846
00:38:59,889 --> 00:39:02,892
HAD CAUSE CONCERN
MUCH EARLIER ON.
847
00:39:08,138 --> 00:39:10,106
SHAUN, LOOKING
AT THESE PHOTOS
848
00:39:10,140 --> 00:39:13,178
OF THE PRINCE OF WALES,
THE FUTURE EDWARD VIII,
849
00:39:13,212 --> 00:39:15,007
HE LOOKS PRETTY SMART
IN ALL OF THEM, I'D SAY.
850
00:39:15,042 --> 00:39:16,699
I'D SAY THAT WAS
A PRETTY SMART JACKET
851
00:39:16,733 --> 00:39:17,700
THAT HE'S WEARING THERE.
852
00:39:17,734 --> 00:39:18,908
WHAT WAS THE PROBLEM
WITH THIS?
853
00:39:18,942 --> 00:39:21,048
WELL, IN TODAY'S
CONVENTIONS,
854
00:39:21,082 --> 00:39:22,256
IT IS
A SMART JACKET.
855
00:39:22,290 --> 00:39:23,775
IT'S A GLEN PLAID
JACKET,
856
00:39:23,809 --> 00:39:26,053
BUT TWEEDS,
GLEN PLAIDS LIKE THIS,
857
00:39:26,087 --> 00:39:27,537
IT WAS WEAR
FOR THE COUNTRY.
858
00:39:27,572 --> 00:39:29,297
IT WASN'T CITY WEAR,
AND HE WAS WEARING
859
00:39:29,332 --> 00:39:30,609
THESE THINGS OUTSIDE
THE PLACE AT WHICH
860
00:39:30,644 --> 00:39:31,576
THEY WERE SUPPOSED
TO BE WORN.
861
00:39:31,610 --> 00:39:32,577
THAT'S WHERE
HE WAS PUSHING
862
00:39:32,611 --> 00:39:34,061
THOSE BOUNDARIES.
863
00:39:34,095 --> 00:39:36,097
SO IS THAT LIKE
TURNING UP TO ROYAL ASCOT
864
00:39:36,132 --> 00:39:37,409
WEARING A SHELL SUIT?
865
00:39:37,444 --> 00:39:39,446
I DON'T THINK IT'S QUITE
AS EXTREME AS THAT,
866
00:39:39,480 --> 00:39:41,033
BUT CERTAINLY, YES,
IT WOULD HAVE BEEN--
867
00:39:41,068 --> 00:39:42,380
IT WAS ABOUT
THE APPROPRIATENESS.
868
00:39:42,414 --> 00:39:44,451
SO IN A TIME WHEN
HE WOULD HAVE BEEN
869
00:39:44,485 --> 00:39:46,107
INSPECTING THE TROOPS
AND HE SHOULD HAVE BEEN
870
00:39:46,142 --> 00:39:48,455
WEARING SOMETHING
FORMAL, PERHAPS UNIFORM,
871
00:39:48,489 --> 00:39:50,180
IN THIS IMAGE,
HE'S WEARING
872
00:39:50,215 --> 00:39:51,734
A DOUBLE-BREASTED
JACKET, WHICH, AGAIN,
873
00:39:51,768 --> 00:39:52,976
WE THINK FOR BEING,
YOU KNOW,
874
00:39:53,011 --> 00:39:54,737
RATHER CONVENTIONAL,
875
00:39:54,771 --> 00:39:56,117
BUT HE'S WEARING IT
WITH A PAIR
876
00:39:56,152 --> 00:39:57,567
OF SHEPHERD TWEED
TROUSERS.
877
00:39:57,602 --> 00:39:59,293
THE FASHION
CONVENTION
878
00:39:59,327 --> 00:40:01,364
WAS FOR NARROWER
EDWARDIAN TROUSERS
879
00:40:01,399 --> 00:40:02,503
THAT HIS FATHER
WOULD HAVE WORN,
880
00:40:02,538 --> 00:40:03,953
WHEREAS--
THESE ARE BAGS.
881
00:40:03,987 --> 00:40:04,954
THEY ARE BAGS,
ABSOLUTELY,
882
00:40:04,988 --> 00:40:06,404
AND HE VERY MUCH,
YOU KNOW,
883
00:40:06,438 --> 00:40:08,647
PUSHED THIS BOUNDARY
WITH HIS TROUSERS,
884
00:40:08,682 --> 00:40:10,235
AND HIS BIOGRAPHY
SAYS
885
00:40:10,269 --> 00:40:11,616
HE DOESN'T
WEAR BAGS, AS SUCH.
886
00:40:11,650 --> 00:40:13,100
THOSE ARE
BAGGY TROUSERS.
887
00:40:13,134 --> 00:40:14,170
THEY ARE VERY
BAGGY TROUSERS,
888
00:40:14,204 --> 00:40:16,275
AND, IN FACT, WHILE
HE HAD HIS JACKETS
889
00:40:16,310 --> 00:40:18,588
MADE AT A TAILOR
IN LONDON, SCHOLTE'S,
890
00:40:18,623 --> 00:40:21,315
HE HAD HIS TROUSERS MADE
BY AN AMERICAN TAILOR.
891
00:40:21,349 --> 00:40:23,593
HE DIDN'T LIKE THE CUT
AND HAD THEM FLOWN OVER.
892
00:40:23,628 --> 00:40:25,699
THAT'S SO--
THAT'S SO PROFLIGATE.
893
00:40:25,733 --> 00:40:27,666
ABSOLUTELY,
WHAT WALLIS SIMPSON
894
00:40:27,701 --> 00:40:29,150
CALLED "HIS PANTS
ACROSS THE OCEAN."
895
00:40:29,185 --> 00:40:30,393
NO WAY. "HIS PANTS
ACROSS THE OCEAN"?
896
00:40:30,428 --> 00:40:31,394
ABSOLUTELY, "PANTS
ACROSS THE OCEAN."
897
00:40:31,429 --> 00:40:32,602
THAT'S BRILLIANT.
898
00:40:32,637 --> 00:40:33,845
LOOK AT THE CONTRAST BETWEEN
THIS VERY FORMAL-LOOKING
899
00:40:33,879 --> 00:40:34,984
GENT OVER HERE.
ABSOLUTELY,
900
00:40:35,018 --> 00:40:36,019
AND THE BOWLER HAT,
AS WELL.
901
00:40:36,054 --> 00:40:37,469
WHILE WE THINK
OF THAT AS BEING,
902
00:40:37,504 --> 00:40:40,196
YOU KNOW, THE EPITOME
OF BRITISH TRADITION,
903
00:40:40,230 --> 00:40:41,646
YOU KNOW, IT STARTED
OFF AS A HAT
904
00:40:41,680 --> 00:40:43,682
FOR THE COUNTRY,
FOR SERVANTS.
905
00:40:43,717 --> 00:40:46,098
YOU KNOW, HE'S
WEARING IT IN TOWN,
906
00:40:46,133 --> 00:40:47,790
WEARING IT TO
INSPECT THE TROOPS.
907
00:40:47,824 --> 00:40:49,688
HE STARTED
TO WEAR KNITWEAR.
908
00:40:49,723 --> 00:40:51,552
HE POPULARIZED
FAIR ISLE KNITWEAR,
909
00:40:51,587 --> 00:40:52,864
CERTAINLY IN GOLF
910
00:40:52,898 --> 00:40:54,866
AND THEN INTO OTHER
FORMS OF LEISURE.
911
00:40:54,900 --> 00:40:56,488
YOU ARE WEARING
HIS LEGACY TODAY.
912
00:40:56,523 --> 00:40:57,627
IT'S WONDERFUL.
INDEED.
913
00:40:57,662 --> 00:40:58,801
SO IT JUST SHOWS,
DOESN'T IT,
914
00:40:58,835 --> 00:41:00,216
HOW IMPORTANT
HE WAS.
915
00:41:00,250 --> 00:41:02,770
THIS SEEMS LIKE
THE ICONIC IMAGE TO ME
916
00:41:02,805 --> 00:41:04,358
BECAUSE--
WHAT IS HE DOING?
917
00:41:04,392 --> 00:41:05,704
HE'S GOT OFF AN AIRPLANE.
918
00:41:05,739 --> 00:41:07,741
HE'S WEARING
A VERY STYLISH SUIT.
919
00:41:07,775 --> 00:41:09,812
HE'S GOT THIS FUNNY,
LITTLE DOG WITH HIM,
920
00:41:09,846 --> 00:41:12,780
AND HE'S DOING SOMETHING
VERY CAMP WITH HIS ARM.
921
00:41:12,815 --> 00:41:14,541
HE IS, AND, CERTAINLY,
HE WAS THE MODERN MAN.
922
00:41:14,575 --> 00:41:16,163
THIS, FOR ME,
SUMS UP EDWARD VIII.
923
00:41:16,197 --> 00:41:17,578
WOULD YOU HAVE
EMPLOYED HIM
924
00:41:17,613 --> 00:41:18,579
AT THE LONDON COLLEGE
OF FASHION?
925
00:41:18,614 --> 00:41:21,237
ABSOLUTELY.
HA HA HA!
926
00:41:21,271 --> 00:41:22,480
I'D EMPLOY HIM AS MY
TAILOR AND MY DRESSER.
927
00:41:22,514 --> 00:41:25,172
HE'D HAVE YOUR JOB.
HA HA HA!
928
00:41:27,692 --> 00:41:30,764
NOW, OBVIOUSLY,
EDWARD VIII DIDN'T ABDICATE
929
00:41:30,798 --> 00:41:33,767
BECAUSE HE SPENT TOO MUCH TIME
ON THE GOLF COURSE
930
00:41:33,801 --> 00:41:36,217
OR BECAUSE OF HIS FONDNESS
FOR KNITWEAR,
931
00:41:36,252 --> 00:41:37,978
BUT IN THE EYES
OF THE ESTABLISHMENT,
932
00:41:38,012 --> 00:41:39,669
THESE THINGS WERE SYMPTOMATIC.
933
00:41:39,704 --> 00:41:41,844
TO THEM, EDWARD VIII
WAS TOO FASHIONABLE.
934
00:41:41,878 --> 00:41:44,398
HE WAS TOO SLANG.
935
00:41:44,432 --> 00:41:46,262
IF HE WASN'T DRESSED
LIKE A ROYAL,
936
00:41:46,296 --> 00:41:48,644
PEOPLE THOUGHT HE WASN'T
BEHAVING LIKE A ROYAL,
937
00:41:48,678 --> 00:41:51,923
AND THIS WAS MORALLY LAX.
938
00:41:58,136 --> 00:42:00,621
EDWARD'S LOVE OF CLOTHES
KICKED OFF A DEBATE
939
00:42:00,656 --> 00:42:02,623
THAT WOULD AFFECT
THE WARDROBE CHOICES
940
00:42:02,658 --> 00:42:05,557
OF EVERY YOUNG ROYAL
FROM THEN UNTIL NOW--
941
00:42:05,592 --> 00:42:07,732
HOW TO RESPOND TO FASHION.
942
00:42:08,905 --> 00:42:11,287
IT WAS SOMETHING
THAT THE PRESENT QUEEN
943
00:42:11,321 --> 00:42:14,532
HAD TO DEAL WITH
FROM AN EARLY AGE,
944
00:42:14,566 --> 00:42:16,741
WHEN BRITAIN'S WARDROBES
WERE INVADED BY--
945
00:42:16,775 --> 00:42:20,158
QUELLE HORREUR--
THE FRENCH FASHION HOUSE DIOR.
946
00:42:21,573 --> 00:42:24,576
HAVING WOWED PARISIAN AUDIENCES
WITH HIS SUMPTUOUS
947
00:42:24,611 --> 00:42:28,856
YET CONTROVERSIAL NEW LOOK
IN 1947,
948
00:42:28,891 --> 00:42:32,584
CHRISTIAN DIOR THEN UNLEASHED IT
UPON THE BRITISH PUBLIC.
949
00:42:38,556 --> 00:42:42,594
DIOR'S NEW LOOK
WAS PRETTY CONTROVERSIAL.
950
00:42:42,629 --> 00:42:44,665
IN PARIS, SOME OF HIS MODELS
HAD THEIR CLOTHES
951
00:42:44,700 --> 00:42:48,773
RIPPED FROM THEIR BODIES
BY DISAPPROVING CROWDS,
952
00:42:48,807 --> 00:42:51,361
AND IN LONDON, THE HEAD
OF THE BOARD OF TRADE THOUGHT
953
00:42:51,396 --> 00:42:55,089
THAT THIS WAS A RIDICULOUSLY
PROFLIGATE USE OF FABRIC
954
00:42:55,124 --> 00:42:57,402
WHEN RATIONING
WAS STILL ENFORCED.
955
00:42:57,436 --> 00:43:00,232
THE TROUBLE WAS, THOUGH,
THAT EVERY FEMALE FASHION LOVER
956
00:43:00,267 --> 00:43:02,649
IN LONDON LOVED THIS,
957
00:43:02,683 --> 00:43:05,410
INCLUDING THE FEMALE MEMBERS
OF THE ROYAL FAMILY.
958
00:43:09,241 --> 00:43:14,074
WHILE DIOR'S TRIP TO LONDON
CAUSED A PUBLIC FRENZY,
959
00:43:14,108 --> 00:43:17,318
THERE WAS SOMETHING SECRET
GOING ON BEHIND THE SCENES.
960
00:43:17,353 --> 00:43:20,321
ONE DAY, HE PACKS UP
ALL OF HIS DRESSES INTO BAGS,
961
00:43:20,356 --> 00:43:23,324
AND HE SNEAKS OUT THE BACK
OF HIS HOTEL TO TRAVEL
962
00:43:23,359 --> 00:43:26,224
ACROSS LONDON
TO THE FRENCH EMBASSY,
963
00:43:26,258 --> 00:43:29,158
AND THERE HE PUT ON A PRIVATE
SHOWING OF HIS COLLECTION
964
00:43:29,192 --> 00:43:32,679
TO A WHOLE GAGGLE OF ROYALS,
INCLUDING THE DUCHESS OF KENT
965
00:43:32,713 --> 00:43:35,751
AND PRINCESS MARGARET,
BUT APPARENTLY, ONE PERSON
966
00:43:35,785 --> 00:43:38,305
WAS CONSPICUOUS BY HER ABSENCE.
967
00:43:38,339 --> 00:43:42,481
THAT WAS PRINCESS ELIZABETH,
THE FUTURE QUEEN.
968
00:43:42,516 --> 00:43:46,140
IT WAS ACCEPTABLE FOR
JUNIOR ROYALS TO DROOL OVER DIOR
969
00:43:46,175 --> 00:43:48,487
AND HIS FRENCH FROCKS,
BUT APPARENTLY,
970
00:43:48,522 --> 00:43:51,249
IT WASN'T ALL RIGHT FOR THE HEIR
TO THE BRITISH THRONE.
971
00:43:51,283 --> 00:43:54,217
PRINCESS ELIZABETH'S
YOUNGER SISTER MARGARET
972
00:43:54,252 --> 00:43:57,704
WAS THE ONE WITH THE FREEDOM
TO FROLIC WITH FASHION.
973
00:43:59,982 --> 00:44:02,778
PRINCESS MARGARET
REMAINED AT THE FRONT
974
00:44:02,812 --> 00:44:05,297
OF THE FASHION PACK
FOR HER WHOLE LIFE.
975
00:44:05,332 --> 00:44:08,404
AFTER ALL, SHE WAS MARRIED
TO A FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER.
976
00:44:08,438 --> 00:44:10,406
SHE WENT ON WEARING DIOR
977
00:44:10,440 --> 00:44:13,651
FROM THE NEW LOOK
RIGHT INTO THE 1970s.
978
00:44:13,685 --> 00:44:16,688
THIS DRESS FROM 1977 IS BY DIOR,
979
00:44:16,723 --> 00:44:20,865
AND SHE WORE IT AT THE QUEEN'S
SILVER JUBILEE CELEBRATIONS.
980
00:44:20,899 --> 00:44:24,765
LOUIS ARMSTRONG DESCRIBES THE
FASHION-LOVING PRINCESS MARGARET
981
00:44:24,800 --> 00:44:26,871
AS "ONE HIP CHICK."
982
00:44:26,905 --> 00:44:29,321
I DON'T THINK HE WOULD
HAVE BEEN ABLE TO SAY THAT
983
00:44:29,356 --> 00:44:31,634
ABOUT HER ELDER SISTER
THE QUEEN.
984
00:44:41,437 --> 00:44:45,855
WHILE MARGARET LOOKED EXOTIC
AND GLAMOROUS AND COOL,
985
00:44:45,890 --> 00:44:47,961
HER ELDER SISTER REALIZED THAT
986
00:44:47,995 --> 00:44:50,895
WITH HER POSITION
CAME RESPONSIBILITY.
987
00:44:50,929 --> 00:44:53,829
LIKE HER GREAT-GREAT-GRANDMOTHER
QUEEN VICTORIA,
988
00:44:53,863 --> 00:44:56,003
HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN
HAD TO MAKE CHOICES
989
00:44:56,038 --> 00:44:59,489
THAT WERE CONSERVATIVE
AND VERY, VERY BRITISH.
990
00:44:59,524 --> 00:45:02,251
AT FIRST, SHE USED
THE DESIGNER NORMAN HARTNELL,
991
00:45:02,285 --> 00:45:04,460
WHO SHE'D INHERITED
FROM HER MOTHER,
992
00:45:04,494 --> 00:45:07,601
BEFORE CHOOSING HARDY AMIES,
WHO'S FASHION HOUSE STILL LIES
993
00:45:07,635 --> 00:45:09,810
AT THE HEART
OF BRITISH TAILORING.
994
00:45:12,986 --> 00:45:16,127
OK. HERE WE HAVE
THE QUEEN'S PRESS BOOK.
995
00:45:16,161 --> 00:45:17,887
LOOK HOW BIG IT IS, AND
IT SAYS "THE QUEEN."
996
00:45:17,922 --> 00:45:20,062
YEAH, A GARGANTUAN
PRESS LOOK.
997
00:45:20,096 --> 00:45:22,029
SO HERE WE GO
FROM THE BEGINNING.
998
00:45:22,064 --> 00:45:25,170
SO HERE, THIS IS
THE PROCESSION, ALMOST,
999
00:45:25,205 --> 00:45:28,449
THE PROCESS OF HARDY
GOING TO BUCKINGHAM PALACE,
1000
00:45:28,484 --> 00:45:30,831
AND THERE'S HARDY
IN THE MIDDLE THERE.
1001
00:45:30,866 --> 00:45:32,384
IT'S OBVIOUSLY
QUITE A MOMENT,
1002
00:45:32,419 --> 00:45:33,731
AT IT SAYS,
"SETTING OFF
1003
00:45:33,765 --> 00:45:35,698
FOR BUCKINGHAM PALACE,
1954."
1004
00:45:35,733 --> 00:45:36,699
YES. IT WAS.
1005
00:45:36,734 --> 00:45:38,425
YOU KNOW, HARDY AMIES
WAS REALLY PROUD,
1006
00:45:38,459 --> 00:45:41,946
REALLY PROUD OF HIS ROLE
DESIGNING FOR THE QUEEN.
1007
00:45:41,980 --> 00:45:43,533
UM, IT WAS HIS
LIFE'S WORK, REALLY.
1008
00:45:43,568 --> 00:45:45,121
WHAT HAPPENED
WHEN THEY GOT
1009
00:45:45,156 --> 00:45:46,778
TO BUCKINGHAM
PALACE?
1010
00:45:46,813 --> 00:45:47,848
THEY HAD TO GO
THROUGH THE BACK DOOR,
1011
00:45:47,883 --> 00:45:49,229
WHICH ALWAYS REALLY
IRRITATED HARDY...
1012
00:45:49,263 --> 00:45:50,886
THE BACK DOOR,
WAS IT?
1013
00:45:50,920 --> 00:45:52,611
HE ALWAYS THOUGHT HE SHOULD
HAVE GONE THROUGH THE FRONT.
1014
00:45:52,646 --> 00:45:54,372
SO THEY GO THROUGH THE BACK,
BACK DOOR AND MEET
1015
00:45:54,406 --> 00:45:56,477
HER MAJESTY WITH HER
OWN TEAM OF PEOPLE.
1016
00:45:56,512 --> 00:45:57,858
THERE WOULD HAVE BEEN
HER OWN FITTER.
1017
00:45:57,893 --> 00:45:59,929
SO HE DIDN'T
DO IT HIMSELF.
1018
00:45:59,964 --> 00:46:01,172
NO. HE WOULD
HAVE HAD--
1019
00:46:01,206 --> 00:46:02,173
THE QUEEN WOULD HAVE
HAD SOMEONE,
1020
00:46:02,207 --> 00:46:03,415
DISTANCE.
YEAH,
1021
00:46:03,450 --> 00:46:05,107
AND HE WOULD SAY,
YOU KNOW, "JUST MAYBE DO
1022
00:46:05,141 --> 00:46:06,936
SOMETHING HERE
WITH THE LAPEL"
1023
00:46:06,971 --> 00:46:08,904
OR THE HEM OF THE SKIRT
OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT
1024
00:46:08,938 --> 00:46:10,768
MAYBE LENGTHWISE.
1025
00:46:10,802 --> 00:46:12,459
IF YOU WERE THE QUEEN'S
DESIGNER THEN,
1026
00:46:12,493 --> 00:46:14,047
WHAT WERE THE RULES
AND REGULATIONS
1027
00:46:14,081 --> 00:46:16,256
THAT YOU HAD TO SORT
OF WORK WITHIN?
1028
00:46:16,290 --> 00:46:18,327
WELL, A HUGE BONUS WOULD
BE TO GET A COLOR RIGHT.
1029
00:46:18,361 --> 00:46:20,053
FOR EXAMPLE, HERE,
THE QUEEN IS WEARING
1030
00:46:20,087 --> 00:46:23,642
MAUVE IN JAPAN, AND THAT'S
THE IMPERIAL COLOR OF JAPAN.
1031
00:46:23,677 --> 00:46:25,955
SO WHEN HER MAJESTY
STEPPED FROM THE AIRCRAFT
1032
00:46:25,990 --> 00:46:28,061
WEARING THIS,
THE HOST NATION WERE
1033
00:46:28,095 --> 00:46:30,822
DELIGHTED THAT SHE
WAS PAYING HOMAGE TO THEM.
1034
00:46:30,857 --> 00:46:32,962
SO IT'S A COMPLIMENT
TO THE HOST NATION
1035
00:46:32,997 --> 00:46:34,343
TO INCORPORATE SOME
SORT OF A REFERENCE
1036
00:46:34,377 --> 00:46:36,310
TO THEIR OWN--
THEIR OWN CULTURE.
1037
00:46:36,345 --> 00:46:37,933
ABSOLUTELY.
ABSOLUTELY.
1038
00:46:37,967 --> 00:46:41,246
THE QUEEN CONSIDERED THIS
HER WORKING WARDROBE.
1039
00:46:41,281 --> 00:46:44,042
SHE WANTED TO BE SEEN,
EVEN ON A RAINY DAY--
1040
00:46:44,077 --> 00:46:46,804
NOW WE JUST SEE A TIP
OF IT THERE--AN UMBRELLA,
1041
00:46:46,838 --> 00:46:48,391
NORMALLY A TRANSPARENT
UMBRELLA
1042
00:46:48,426 --> 00:46:50,048
THAT THE PUBLIC,
HER PUBLIC,
1043
00:46:50,083 --> 00:46:52,499
COULD STILL SEE HER
IN ALL HER MAGNIFICENCE.
1044
00:46:52,533 --> 00:46:54,673
SO THAT'S WHY SHE'S
IN THE REALLY BRIGHT JADE
1045
00:46:54,708 --> 00:46:57,711
AND THE MAGENTA AND
WHAT I WOULD DESCRIBE
1046
00:46:57,745 --> 00:47:00,714
AS RATHER A TERRIBLE SHADE
OF ORANGE. HA HA HA!
1047
00:47:00,748 --> 00:47:02,336
THIS INCREDIBLE
TANGERINE.
1048
00:47:02,371 --> 00:47:04,511
THIS IS YOUR ROYAL DUTY.
YOU WILL WEAR THESE COLORS.
1049
00:47:04,545 --> 00:47:06,340
YES. YOU WILL
STAND OUT.
1050
00:47:06,375 --> 00:47:07,859
HA HA! AND I CAN'T
HELP NOTICING
1051
00:47:07,894 --> 00:47:10,482
THE ICONIC SHOES
AND HANDBAGS,
1052
00:47:10,517 --> 00:47:12,070
THE LOW-HEELED,
SHINY PUMPS
1053
00:47:12,105 --> 00:47:13,416
AND THAT OLD HANDBAG.
1054
00:47:13,451 --> 00:47:16,557
SO HE FELT THAT
SOMETIMES THAT BLACKNESS
1055
00:47:16,592 --> 00:47:19,629
DIDN'T REALLY COMPLIMENT
SOME OF THE SHADES
1056
00:47:19,664 --> 00:47:23,081
HE PUT THE QUEEN IN,
AND HERE WE HAVE A SHOE.
1057
00:47:23,116 --> 00:47:28,052
THIS IS A 1976 COURT
SHOE FOR HER MAJESTY.
1058
00:47:28,086 --> 00:47:29,156
MM-HMM.
1059
00:47:29,191 --> 00:47:30,571
VERY IMPORTANTLY,
SCRATCHES ON THE BOTTOM.
1060
00:47:30,606 --> 00:47:32,263
THEY'VE BEEN SCORED.
OH, YES.
1061
00:47:32,297 --> 00:47:33,678
LOOK. YOU CAN SEE
CRISSCROSSES
1062
00:47:33,712 --> 00:47:35,300
TO STOP HER
FROM FALLING OVER.
1063
00:47:35,335 --> 00:47:36,336
THEY ARE
AWFULLY SLIPPY,
1064
00:47:36,370 --> 00:47:37,924
THOSE LEATHER SOLES,
AREN'T THEY?
1065
00:47:37,958 --> 00:47:39,132
THEY ARE AND
SLIGHTLY RAISED HERE.
1066
00:47:39,166 --> 00:47:40,858
THAT MUST BE TO
SUPPORT THE ARCHES.
1067
00:47:40,892 --> 00:47:41,859
THAT'S RIGHT.
1068
00:47:41,893 --> 00:47:43,170
YOU COULD STAND UP
ALL DAY IN THAT SHOE.
1069
00:47:43,205 --> 00:47:44,551
YES. ALL ABOUT
COMFORT. YES.
1070
00:47:44,585 --> 00:47:46,864
SO IF YOU'RE
THE QUEEN'S DESIGNER,
1071
00:47:46,898 --> 00:47:49,418
I IMAGINE THAT THIS IS A
LITTLE BIT CONSTRICTING.
1072
00:47:49,452 --> 00:47:50,453
IS IT DIFFICULT?
1073
00:47:50,488 --> 00:47:52,490
IS IT A BIT FRUSTRATING,
DO YOU THINK?
1074
00:47:52,524 --> 00:47:56,011
I THINK SO. SHE HAD
A LITTLE BYLINE THAT SAID--
1075
00:47:56,045 --> 00:47:58,116
SHE'D SAY TO HARDY,
"I DON'T WANT TO LOOK
1076
00:47:58,151 --> 00:47:59,911
LIKE THE GIRL ON
THE COVER OF "VOGUE,"
1077
00:47:59,946 --> 00:48:02,189
AND BY SAYING THAT,
SHE WAS SAYING TO HARDY,
1078
00:48:02,224 --> 00:48:04,812
"THIS IS TOO
FASHIONABLE FOR ME."
1079
00:48:04,847 --> 00:48:07,160
WORSLEY: THE QUEEN WOULD NEVER
HAVE BECOME THE CLOTHES HORSE
1080
00:48:07,194 --> 00:48:10,784
THAT HARDY LONGED TO DRESS,
BUT INSTEAD, SHE WON RESPECT
1081
00:48:10,818 --> 00:48:13,269
BY STICKING TO HER STYLE.
1082
00:48:13,304 --> 00:48:16,790
BY WEARING THE SAME
SORT OF THING FOR 70 YEARS,
1083
00:48:16,824 --> 00:48:19,620
SHE HAS CREATED A TIMELESS LOOK
THAT'S WON PRAISE
1084
00:48:19,655 --> 00:48:22,658
FROM SOME OF THE GREATEST
FASHION ARBITERS.
1085
00:48:22,692 --> 00:48:26,144
MIUCCIA PRADA HAS SAID
THAT THE QUEEN IS SIMPLY
1086
00:48:26,179 --> 00:48:30,148
"ONE OF THE MOST ELEGANT WOMEN
IN THE WORLD."
1087
00:48:30,183 --> 00:48:32,944
JUST AS QUEEN VICTORIA
COMMANDED,
1088
00:48:32,979 --> 00:48:35,222
RECENT ROYALS HAVE CAREFULLY
STUCK TO THE RULES
1089
00:48:35,257 --> 00:48:38,398
ABOUT NOT FLIRTING TOO MUCH
WITH FASHION.
1090
00:48:38,432 --> 00:48:40,883
WHEN A MEMBER OF THE ROYAL
FAMILY DID MAKE THE BREAK
1091
00:48:40,918 --> 00:48:44,369
AND WEAR FOREIGN FASHION,
IT WAS ONLY AFTER THE ENDING
1092
00:48:44,404 --> 00:48:47,372
OF HER ROYAL CAREER,
WHEN THE WORLD WITNESSED
1093
00:48:47,407 --> 00:48:49,236
THE MOST GLAMOROUS
AND SUCCESSFUL
1094
00:48:49,271 --> 00:48:52,377
CLOTHING SALE IN HISTORY--
THE CHRISTIE'S NEW YORK
1095
00:48:52,412 --> 00:48:54,793
CHARITY AUCTION
OF THE ROYAL WARDROBE
1096
00:48:54,828 --> 00:48:57,624
OF DIANA, PRINCESS OF WALES.
1097
00:48:57,658 --> 00:48:59,867
MEREDITH, WHAT WERE
THE CIRCUMSTANCES
1098
00:48:59,902 --> 00:49:03,699
OF THE AUCTION OF ALL
OF THE DRESSES IN 1997?
1099
00:49:03,733 --> 00:49:05,287
WELL, RATHER
SURPRISING ONES.
1100
00:49:05,321 --> 00:49:06,909
WELL, I WAS CERTAINLY
VERY SURPRISED,
1101
00:49:06,944 --> 00:49:09,981
BECAUSE ONE SUNDAY MORNING
IN SEPTEMBER, I WAS SUMMONED
1102
00:49:10,016 --> 00:49:12,294
TO THE MAN WHO WAS RUNNING
CHRISTIE'S AT THE TIME,
1103
00:49:12,328 --> 00:49:14,986
WHO SAID, "I WANT YOU TO GO
DOWN TO KENSINGTON PALACE.
1104
00:49:15,021 --> 00:49:17,126
PRINCESS DIANA HAS DECIDED
TO SELL HER WARDROBE,"
1105
00:49:17,161 --> 00:49:18,886
AND I SAID,
"YOU MUST BE JOKING."
1106
00:49:18,921 --> 00:49:21,372
HE SAID, "I'M NOT.
I THINK IT'S FOR CHARITY.
1107
00:49:21,406 --> 00:49:23,995
"YOU KNOW, SHE'S VERY EXCITED.
YOU BETTER GO AND MEET HER."
1108
00:49:24,030 --> 00:49:26,894
SO I RANG UP,
AND A VOICE ANSWERED,
1109
00:49:26,929 --> 00:49:28,896
AND IT WAS PAUL BURRELL,
THE BUTLER,
1110
00:49:28,931 --> 00:49:30,553
I THOUGHT SOUNDING
RATHER KIND OF POMPOUS.
1111
00:49:30,588 --> 00:49:35,558
UM, SO OFF I WENT,
AND SHE EXPLAINED HER IDEA
1112
00:49:35,593 --> 00:49:39,321
OF LESSENING THE LOAD
ON HER WARDROBE
1113
00:49:39,355 --> 00:49:41,909
BY SELLING A LOT
OF DRESSES FOR CHARITY,
1114
00:49:41,944 --> 00:49:44,360
WHICH WAS KIND OF A BIT
OF A SHOWSTOPPER,
1115
00:49:44,395 --> 00:49:47,398
QUITE FRANKLY, OVER A CUP
OF COFFEE AND A BICKIE.
1116
00:49:47,432 --> 00:49:49,572
WHAT DO YOU THINK
HER MOTIVATION
1117
00:49:49,607 --> 00:49:51,436
WAS FOR DOING THIS?
1118
00:49:51,471 --> 00:49:52,575
I THINK TWO THINGS.
1119
00:49:52,610 --> 00:49:54,474
FIRST OF ALL, SHE'D
SERIOUSLY RUN OUT OF SPACE
1120
00:49:54,508 --> 00:49:56,545
IN HER WARDROBE
IN HER DRESSING ROOM,
1121
00:49:56,579 --> 00:49:58,409
BUT THAT'S A SORT
OF JOKEY ANSWER.
1122
00:49:58,443 --> 00:50:00,031
THE SERIOUS ANSWER
WAS, YOU KNOW,
1123
00:50:00,066 --> 00:50:02,240
IT WAS THE END
OF ONE KIND OF LIFE.
1124
00:50:02,275 --> 00:50:04,622
SHE WASN'T GOING TO DO
STATE VISITS ANYMORE.
1125
00:50:04,656 --> 00:50:08,971
SHE WASN'T GOING TO SORT OF
OPEN THINGS, CUT RIBBONS,
1126
00:50:09,006 --> 00:50:12,043
AND ALL OF THOSE SORT
OF THINGS COULD GO,
1127
00:50:12,078 --> 00:50:14,977
AND THE THIRD REASON,
I SUSPECT, WAS THAT
1128
00:50:15,012 --> 00:50:17,359
SHE ACTUALLY QUITE
WANTED TO CLAMBER
1129
00:50:17,393 --> 00:50:19,016
INTO CHANEL AND VERSACE.
1130
00:50:19,050 --> 00:50:20,258
SHE LIKED FRENCH
AND ITALIAN CLOTHES,
1131
00:50:20,293 --> 00:50:22,088
AND SHE'D ONLY EVER
BEEN ABLE TO WEAR,
1132
00:50:22,122 --> 00:50:24,642
QUITE RIGHTLY SO,
ENGLISH CLOTHES BEFORE THAT.
1133
00:50:24,676 --> 00:50:26,747
HOW DID YOU
GO ABOUT SELECTING
1134
00:50:26,782 --> 00:50:29,509
THESE PARTICULAR
80 LOTS?
1135
00:50:29,543 --> 00:50:30,958
WELL, IT WAS A COLLABORATIVE
EFFORT BETWEEN ME,
1136
00:50:30,993 --> 00:50:33,375
THE PRINCESS,
SOMETIMES PRINCE WILLIAM,
1137
00:50:33,409 --> 00:50:35,894
WHO WAS OFTEN
DOWN FROM EATON
1138
00:50:35,929 --> 00:50:38,242
FOR DENTISTS
OR WHATEVER.
1139
00:50:38,276 --> 00:50:40,278
UM, THE BUTLER
PLAYED A PART.
1140
00:50:40,313 --> 00:50:42,832
WE USED TO HAVE THEM
ON RACKS IN THE DRAWING ROOM
1141
00:50:42,867 --> 00:50:46,043
AND GO THROUGH THEM AND
ELIMINATE, UM, SOME OF THEM.
1142
00:50:46,077 --> 00:50:48,183
PRINCE WILLIAM WOULD SAY,
"REALLY, YOU CAN'T SELL THAT.
1143
00:50:48,217 --> 00:50:51,531
IT'S JUST, YOU'VE WORN IT
A BIT TOO MUCH,"
1144
00:50:51,565 --> 00:50:55,155
AND THEN THE ONES THAT WE
SORT OF SELECTED HAD TAGS.
1145
00:50:55,190 --> 00:50:58,434
PRINCE WILLIAM WAS TOLD HOW
TO TAG THINGS BY THE BUTLER.
1146
00:50:58,469 --> 00:51:02,852
SO HE BUSILY TAGGED THINGS,
UM, AND WE FINALLY ARRIVED
1147
00:51:02,887 --> 00:51:06,166
AT THE SORT OF, WE THOUGHT,
PRETTY MUCH THE BALANCE.
1148
00:51:06,201 --> 00:51:07,995
SO WE HAD SOME
VERY GRAND DRESSES
1149
00:51:08,030 --> 00:51:09,928
AND SOME
NOT-SO-GRAND DRESSES.
1150
00:51:09,963 --> 00:51:12,862
SOME THINGS, YOU MIGHT SAY,
WERE NOT FOR EVERYBODY,
1151
00:51:12,897 --> 00:51:14,588
BUT FOR PEOPLE
WHO WANTED TO BE
1152
00:51:14,623 --> 00:51:16,280
PRINCESSES FOR A DAY,
I GUESS.
1153
00:51:16,314 --> 00:51:17,798
YEAH,
AND THE CLIMAX--
1154
00:51:17,833 --> 00:51:20,146
THE CLIMAX OF THE
WHOLE THING WAS--
1155
00:51:20,180 --> 00:51:22,113
THE FIRST NIGHT,
THE SALE, AND THE CLIMAX
1156
00:51:22,148 --> 00:51:27,498
WAS THE LOT BEFORE THE END--
LOT 79, THE-- WHAT I CALL,
1157
00:51:27,532 --> 00:51:30,052
THE JOHN TRAVOLTA DRESS
THAT SHE DANCED
1158
00:51:30,087 --> 00:51:32,572
WITH JOHN TRAVOLTA
IN THE WHITE HOUSE.
1159
00:51:32,606 --> 00:51:33,952
I THINK I'VE
ACTUALLY MARKED--
1160
00:51:33,987 --> 00:51:36,610
"X" MARKS THE SPOT,
AND IT'S VERY FAMOUS.
1161
00:51:36,645 --> 00:51:40,235
IT WAS DARK BLUE VELVET,
MADE BY VICTOR EDELSTEIN,
1162
00:51:40,269 --> 00:51:42,375
AND SHE LOOKED
RAVISHING IN IT.
1163
00:51:42,409 --> 00:51:43,928
AND AM I RIGHT IN SAYING
THAT AT THE TIME
1164
00:51:43,962 --> 00:51:45,654
THAT IT WAS SOLD, IT
WAS THE MOST EXPENSIVE
1165
00:51:45,688 --> 00:51:47,138
ITEM OF CLOTHING EVER?
1166
00:51:47,173 --> 00:51:48,864
YES. IT WAS.
1167
00:51:48,898 --> 00:51:50,728
I'LL HAVE TO REFRESH
MY MEMORY, AND IT SAYS HERE,
1168
00:51:50,762 --> 00:51:53,627
WE SOLD IT FOR 222,500,
1169
00:51:53,662 --> 00:51:55,905
WHICH IS A LOT OF MONEY.
1170
00:51:55,940 --> 00:51:56,941
YOU WOULDN'T WANT TO
SPILL YOUR BAKED BEANS
1171
00:51:56,975 --> 00:51:59,081
DOWN THAT ONE,
WOULD YOU?
1172
00:51:59,116 --> 00:52:00,289
NO. SHE WAS
ALWAYS WORRIED.
1173
00:52:00,324 --> 00:52:01,842
SHE SAID, "YOU KNOW,
IT'S AWFUL GOING TO BANQUETS.
1174
00:52:01,877 --> 00:52:03,810
"YOU'RE ALWAYS WORRIED
ABOUT THE CHICKEN
1175
00:52:03,844 --> 00:52:05,122
"BECAUSE IT'S ALWAYS
IN A SAUCE.
1176
00:52:05,156 --> 00:52:07,296
"YOU KNOW, YOU CAN'T
TUCK A NAPKIN IN, CAN YOU,
1177
00:52:07,331 --> 00:52:10,127
IF YOU'RE SITTING AT
A KIND OF STATE BANQUET."
1178
00:52:10,161 --> 00:52:12,198
I DID-- I DID
SYMPATHIZE, I MUST SAY.
1179
00:52:18,963 --> 00:52:24,002
THIS IS JUST ONE
OF THE 80 DRESSES FROM THE SALE,
1180
00:52:24,037 --> 00:52:28,283
WHICH MADE A TOTAL
OF ยฃ3.25 MILLION.
1181
00:52:28,317 --> 00:52:33,080
IT'S A GREEN VELVET
HALTER-NECK EVENING DRESS
1182
00:52:33,115 --> 00:52:36,291
WITH DIAMOND BUTTONS,
AND THIS AND THE REST
1183
00:52:36,325 --> 00:52:39,742
MADE SO MUCH MONEY NOT BECAUSE
THEY'RE LOVELY DRESSES,
1184
00:52:39,777 --> 00:52:42,020
WHICH THEY ARE,
BUT BECAUSE THEY WERE ROYAL,
1185
00:52:42,055 --> 00:52:43,746
BECAUSE DIANA,
PRINCESS OF WALES,
1186
00:52:43,781 --> 00:52:45,472
WORE THEM HERSELF.
1187
00:52:45,507 --> 00:52:48,199
HER DRESSES WERE HER
PERSONAL STATEMENTS.
1188
00:52:48,234 --> 00:52:50,512
THIS IS HOW SHE SPOKE TO US.
1189
00:52:50,546 --> 00:52:52,893
SHE EVEN TOLD
ONE OF HER DESIGNERS
1190
00:52:52,928 --> 00:52:55,896
WHAT WENT THROUGH HER MIND
WHEN SHE WAS PICKING AN OUTFIT.
1191
00:52:55,931 --> 00:53:00,384
SHE WOULD THINK, "WHAT AM
I COMMUNICATING IF I WEAR THIS?"
1192
00:53:00,418 --> 00:53:05,078
THESE WORDS OF PRINCESS DIANA'S
SUM UP THE REASON WHY
1193
00:53:05,112 --> 00:53:09,841
THE ROYAL WARDROBE THROUGHOUT
HISTORY HAS BEEN SO IMPORTANT.
1194
00:53:09,876 --> 00:53:13,328
FOR EACH AND EVERY KING AND
QUEEN OR PRINCE AND PRINCESS,
1195
00:53:13,362 --> 00:53:15,675
THERE'S BEEN NO SUCH THING
AS AN ORDINARY DRESS
1196
00:53:15,709 --> 00:53:18,091
OR A BORING, OLD
PAIR OF TROUSERS.
1197
00:53:18,125 --> 00:53:20,887
IN THE EYES OF THEIR PEOPLE,
EVERY SINGLE OUTFIT
1198
00:53:20,921 --> 00:53:23,890
HAS ALWAYS BEEN SEEN
AS A STATEMENT.
1199
00:53:23,924 --> 00:53:25,995
CLOTHING HAS CREATED THEIR IMAGE
1200
00:53:26,030 --> 00:53:31,242
AND HELPED DETERMINE WHETHER
THEY'VE BEEN LOVED OR LOATHED.
1201
00:53:31,277 --> 00:53:35,315
FOR THE ROYAL FAMILY,
ONE WAS, ONE IS,
1202
00:53:35,350 --> 00:53:39,561
AND ONE PROBABLY ALWAYS WILL BE
WHAT ONE WEARS.
89638
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