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Pascal:
The tip of Patagonia stretches
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00:00:17,191 --> 00:00:21,064
into the great Southern Ocean,
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00:00:21,108 --> 00:00:22,935
where giants roam.
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00:00:27,027 --> 00:00:29,942
In the deep, all is quiet.
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00:00:32,684 --> 00:00:36,558
But above, a storm is raging.
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00:01:02,149 --> 00:01:05,891
At these latitudes, the sea
can be terrifying.
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00:01:08,894 --> 00:01:11,549
They say that
below 40 degrees south,
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00:01:11,593 --> 00:01:13,725
there is no law,
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00:01:13,769 --> 00:01:17,425
but below 50, there is no god.
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00:01:25,694 --> 00:01:31,221
At the ends of the Earth
is a land of extremes...
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...home to spectacular wildlife.
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00:01:36,008 --> 00:01:37,488
For centuries,
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00:01:37,532 --> 00:01:42,841
people and animals
have battled for supremacy.
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00:01:42,885 --> 00:01:48,673
But now enemies
are becoming allies.
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00:01:48,717 --> 00:01:52,112
Together they face
new challenges...
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00:01:54,375 --> 00:01:56,507
...in a rapidly changing world.
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You are at the mercy
of the elements.
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Pascal:
This is the story
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00:02:00,511 --> 00:02:02,644
of what it takes to survive...
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00:02:04,254 --> 00:02:06,691
...on the edge of the world.
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00:02:20,096 --> 00:02:24,056
Patagonia's far south
is dominated by the wind...
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00:02:26,276 --> 00:02:27,886
...and the cold.
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00:02:34,328 --> 00:02:37,679
Extending below
the 50th parallel,
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no other land mass lies
so close to Antarctica.
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00:02:48,777 --> 00:02:51,606
To survive here
takes resilience...
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00:02:53,173 --> 00:02:54,913
...determination,
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and sometimes sheer size.
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00:03:03,792 --> 00:03:08,188
Much of the land is just empty,
wind-blasted tundra.
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00:03:11,278 --> 00:03:14,498
But the sea
is teeming with life.
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A humpback whale.
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00:03:31,167 --> 00:03:34,953
This 30-ton giant
has traveled all the way
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from its winter breeding grounds
in the tropical Pacific,
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00:03:38,957 --> 00:03:42,439
a journey of more
than 4,000 miles.
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00:03:46,313 --> 00:03:50,926
On its tail is wildlife
veterinarian Frederick Toro.
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00:04:01,980 --> 00:04:06,463
These are the waters of the
Francisco Coloane Marine Park
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00:04:06,507 --> 00:04:08,248
in the Straits of Magellan.
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00:04:12,164 --> 00:04:16,386
In 1997,
marine biologists realized
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00:04:16,430 --> 00:04:19,737
this is an important
feeding ground for humpbacks.
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00:04:22,871 --> 00:04:27,049
The forceful mixing of
the Atlantic and Pacific oceans
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00:04:27,092 --> 00:04:31,836
stirs up nutrients,
creating plankton blooms,
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00:04:31,880 --> 00:04:35,144
the foundation
of the marine food chain.
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Food is so plentiful,
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the whales behave
in extraordinary ways.
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Wow.
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00:05:10,832 --> 00:05:15,358
But the whales aren't the only
ones plying these waters.
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The steady stream of ships
through the Straits
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might drive away
the whales entirely.
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To make his case,
Frederick needs proof
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that the whales are stressed --
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00:05:55,703 --> 00:05:58,836
and that means taking a sample.
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00:06:03,145 --> 00:06:06,844
But chasing whales in boats
may panic them.
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00:06:12,633 --> 00:06:16,376
So Frederick and his team
are trying something new.
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A drone.
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00:06:21,468 --> 00:06:23,034
Its mission?
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To hover over the whale's spout
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and catch a sample of its snot.
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Spout samples reveal levels
of stress hormones
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as well as pollution.
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00:06:43,185 --> 00:06:46,754
But catching a sample
is easier said than done.
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00:06:49,496 --> 00:06:51,628
The timing has to be just right.
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00:07:04,685 --> 00:07:06,338
Missed.
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00:07:09,124 --> 00:07:11,039
The whale disappears.
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00:07:16,697 --> 00:07:18,394
Flying against the wind,
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00:07:18,438 --> 00:07:21,049
the drone's battery
is running out of juice.
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00:07:25,662 --> 00:07:27,882
If the whale doesn't
surface soon,
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they'll have to give up.
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One last chance.
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Got it.
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00:08:15,451 --> 00:08:18,933
Frederick hopes that his sample
will provide the proof
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00:08:18,976 --> 00:08:21,936
that these humpbacks
need protection.
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00:08:27,898 --> 00:08:30,988
The rich waters
of Patagonia's far south
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00:08:31,032 --> 00:08:32,947
have the power of life...
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...and death.
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Pascal: Crab fisherman Fernando Monje
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has worked the waters
of the Beagle Channel
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for over a decade.
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The 130-mile seaway
runs east-west across Patagonia.
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00:09:11,986 --> 00:09:13,727
The narrow channel funnels
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the Southern Ocean's
ferocious winds.
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00:09:44,801 --> 00:09:47,412
Pascal:
Some ships don't make it.
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The waters of the far south
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have claimed
well over 1,000 ships...
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...and more than 10,000 sailors.
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00:10:07,215 --> 00:10:09,347
At first, Fernando
saw these wrecks
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as nothing more
than rusting monuments.
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00:10:16,528 --> 00:10:20,010
But then he decided
to take a closer look.
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00:10:40,770 --> 00:10:45,862
Nature has claimed
this steel hulk.
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00:10:45,906 --> 00:10:49,083
Thanks to the nutrients
stirred up by the storms,
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these waters are full of life.
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00:11:01,443 --> 00:11:04,272
But free-diving here is risky.
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00:11:06,927 --> 00:11:09,320
You can easily
get disoriented...
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...even trapped.
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00:11:35,695 --> 00:11:38,741
Luckily,
today's conditions are good.
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00:11:38,785 --> 00:11:43,398
Fernando gets out safely
with his haul.
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00:11:43,441 --> 00:11:46,531
He makes a good living from
the shellfish he collects here.
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00:12:13,994 --> 00:12:18,650
Further up the coast,
another underwater forager
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is also returning home.
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A mother gentoo penguin
bringing food to her baby.
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00:12:42,326 --> 00:12:46,287
She's back on Hammer Island
after a 10-hour fishing trip.
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00:12:51,596 --> 00:12:54,121
She swam nearly 13 miles,
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diving down 200 feet
or more to feed.
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00:13:02,172 --> 00:13:05,741
Now she hikes through hoards
of her cousins --
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00:13:05,785 --> 00:13:07,525
Magellanic penguins.
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00:13:23,890 --> 00:13:25,717
Exhausted,
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00:13:25,761 --> 00:13:27,719
but home at last.
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00:13:33,029 --> 00:13:35,858
Finally, a chance to rest.
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00:13:38,905 --> 00:13:40,515
Or maybe not.
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Her 6-week-old chick
is ravenous.
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00:13:50,960 --> 00:13:54,616
Growing fast, he has
an insatiable appetite.
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00:13:58,489 --> 00:14:02,450
Mom needs to keep some food
back for herself,
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00:14:02,493 --> 00:14:05,757
but her chick won't
take "no" for an answer.
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00:14:21,991 --> 00:14:24,341
Sometimes it's not easy
being a mom.
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00:14:30,043 --> 00:14:33,698
And raising a family here
is especially hard.
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00:14:36,658 --> 00:14:40,923
One moment, you're basking
in the sunshine.
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00:14:40,967 --> 00:14:44,666
The next, you're being stalked
by an outsider.
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00:14:54,719 --> 00:14:57,940
Pascal: On Hammer Island,
deep in the far south,
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gentoo penguins face a harsh
and remote existence.
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00:15:05,382 --> 00:15:07,384
But they're not alone.
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00:15:12,999 --> 00:15:16,916
This is marine biologist
Dr. Andrea Raya Rey.
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Pascal: Andrea and her team
don't just observe the penguins.
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00:15:40,896 --> 00:15:42,463
They get hands-on.
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00:15:51,951 --> 00:15:56,042
They take blood samples and give
the birds a health check.
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00:16:12,449 --> 00:16:15,365
Studying them on land
is one thing.
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00:16:15,409 --> 00:16:18,281
But what happens
when the gentoos go to sea?
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00:16:20,457 --> 00:16:23,112
Andrea wants to learn
how they feed.
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00:16:25,767 --> 00:16:28,422
A small camera is attached
to this male's back
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00:16:28,465 --> 00:16:31,207
to document
his hunting strategy.
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00:16:39,868 --> 00:16:41,870
Ungainly on land,
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00:16:41,913 --> 00:16:45,569
the gentoo is the world's
fastest underwater bird.
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00:16:50,574 --> 00:16:54,187
His wings propel him
at over 20 miles per hour
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into a shoal of small fish.
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00:17:07,678 --> 00:17:11,769
But he's not the only
one feasting here.
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00:17:11,813 --> 00:17:16,470
Seabirds dive in from above,
grabbing what they can.
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00:17:20,126 --> 00:17:23,259
Gentoos were thought
to primarily feed at depth,
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00:17:23,303 --> 00:17:24,956
but now Andrea has discovered
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00:17:25,000 --> 00:17:28,047
that they're also
opportunistic feeders.
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00:17:39,145 --> 00:17:41,799
Right now, there are
only 50 pairs
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00:17:41,843 --> 00:17:44,628
of gentoos
living on Hammer Island.
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00:17:47,762 --> 00:17:49,851
But the colony is growing.
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00:17:49,894 --> 00:17:52,941
Fish are plentiful
in the open water,
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00:17:52,984 --> 00:17:57,119
and nearby is a habitat
that supports yet more food.
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00:18:03,952 --> 00:18:06,824
A giant kelp forest.
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00:18:19,446 --> 00:18:21,665
Like an underwater rainforest,
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00:18:21,709 --> 00:18:25,800
it's one of the most biodiverse
habitats in the ocean,
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00:18:25,843 --> 00:18:30,239
providing food and shelter
for hundreds of species.
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00:18:46,212 --> 00:18:49,519
The conditions here are perfect.
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00:18:49,563 --> 00:18:54,045
These are the largest, most
pristine kelp beds in the world.
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00:19:00,835 --> 00:19:03,490
The fjords and seaways
of the far south stretch
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00:19:03,533 --> 00:19:05,927
for thousands of miles.
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00:19:08,147 --> 00:19:11,541
Remote and rarely visited
by humans.
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00:19:16,546 --> 00:19:23,162
In 2003, scientists made
a surprising discovery
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00:19:23,205 --> 00:19:27,035
here in the heart of the
Tierra del Fuego archipelago.
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00:19:29,907 --> 00:19:32,388
On this small island,
they found an animal
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00:19:32,432 --> 00:19:35,217
that was completely unexpected.
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00:19:40,570 --> 00:19:44,095
One of the largest birds
to take to the skies...
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00:19:47,882 --> 00:19:49,492
...albatross.
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00:19:54,149 --> 00:19:58,501
These giants normally nest
on remote oceanic islands,
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00:19:58,545 --> 00:20:02,201
not in narrow fjords
surrounded by mountains.
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00:20:04,638 --> 00:20:07,162
No-one knows why these
black-browed albatross
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00:20:07,206 --> 00:20:10,078
have chosen to settle here.
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00:20:10,121 --> 00:20:12,559
Exposed and steep,
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00:20:12,602 --> 00:20:16,519
it's a challenging place
to build a nest.
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00:20:16,563 --> 00:20:18,260
But every spring,
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60 pairs return to
their small dirt mounds.
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00:20:31,012 --> 00:20:36,539
Black-browed albatross
can live over 70 years.
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00:20:36,583 --> 00:20:40,064
This couple may well have been
together for decades.
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00:20:42,328 --> 00:20:47,637
They only produce a single
precious egg every year or two.
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00:21:10,443 --> 00:21:14,751
The female could be away
for days, even weeks.
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00:21:16,971 --> 00:21:22,019
And there's a chance
she may not come back at all...
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00:21:22,063 --> 00:21:25,371
...because out at sea,
there is something deadly.
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00:21:37,948 --> 00:21:40,386
Pascal: This black-browed
albatross father
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is keeping
his precious egg warm.
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00:21:49,569 --> 00:21:52,833
And he needs to sit tight.
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00:21:52,876 --> 00:21:54,748
a snowstorm is coming.
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00:22:04,714 --> 00:22:07,891
When the wind is this
bitterly cold,
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00:22:07,935 --> 00:22:11,504
leaving the egg
for a moment might kill it.
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00:22:18,728 --> 00:22:23,733
And in the far south,
it can blow for days.
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00:22:23,777 --> 00:22:25,344
And days.
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00:22:34,440 --> 00:22:37,051
It's been a week
since his partner left.
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00:22:40,750 --> 00:22:44,537
Cold and hungry,
soon he will have no choice
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00:22:44,580 --> 00:22:47,888
but to abandon his egg and feed.
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00:22:57,854 --> 00:23:01,162
Finally, his partner returns.
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00:23:08,474 --> 00:23:11,955
For now, their egg is safe.
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00:23:11,999 --> 00:23:15,394
And dad is free to search
for his own food.
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00:23:24,098 --> 00:23:26,317
Time to head for the open ocean.
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00:23:36,415 --> 00:23:39,679
His wings,
nearly 8 feet across,
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00:23:39,722 --> 00:23:43,465
allow him to glide
with almost no effort.
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00:24:04,921 --> 00:24:09,186
He may travel hundreds of miles
on a single feeding trip.
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00:24:11,972 --> 00:24:16,846
Riding the winds, he soars
with barely a wing flap.
190
00:24:28,945 --> 00:24:31,948
But there's danger
in the feeding grounds.
191
00:24:37,084 --> 00:24:40,740
Hooks --
often lethal for albatross.
192
00:24:42,829 --> 00:24:46,136
Commercial fishing vessels
trail hundreds of them on lines
193
00:24:46,180 --> 00:24:48,487
that can be over a mile long.
194
00:24:53,579 --> 00:24:58,540
Every year, thousands of
albatross are hooked and drown.
195
00:25:08,898 --> 00:25:11,858
This longline fishing boat
is different.
196
00:25:14,948 --> 00:25:18,255
And not just
because it's smaller,
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00:25:18,299 --> 00:25:22,651
but because of its skipper --
Juan Carrasco.
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00:25:47,502 --> 00:25:49,591
Pascal:
On a heavily weighted line,
199
00:25:49,635 --> 00:25:53,987
Juan's bait quickly sinks beyond
the reach of the albatross.
200
00:26:02,778 --> 00:26:05,085
This one may be hungry,
201
00:26:05,128 --> 00:26:07,174
but at least he's safe.
202
00:26:26,628 --> 00:26:28,804
Pascal: Sometimes
gatherings of albatross
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00:26:28,848 --> 00:26:31,415
even guide Juan
to good fishing spots.
204
00:26:36,507 --> 00:26:40,163
And in return, he gives them
nutritious cast-offs
205
00:26:40,207 --> 00:26:41,730
from his catch.
206
00:26:49,477 --> 00:26:52,567
But perhaps the most
incredible part of this story
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00:26:52,611 --> 00:26:56,136
is how widely Juan's
technique is spreading.
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00:26:58,225 --> 00:27:00,531
Prompted by scientists,
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00:27:00,575 --> 00:27:02,925
the Chilean
commercial longline fleet
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00:27:02,969 --> 00:27:06,363
is now using Juan's
heavy-weighted bait technique.
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00:27:10,280 --> 00:27:12,369
Hook-related deaths in Patagonia
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00:27:12,413 --> 00:27:17,026
have dropped
to practically zero.
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00:27:17,070 --> 00:27:22,553
It's an extraordinary
conservation success story.
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00:27:22,597 --> 00:27:25,861
Juan's technique has even
been adopted by other fleets
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00:27:25,905 --> 00:27:28,516
across the rest
of the Southern Ocean.
216
00:27:49,189 --> 00:27:52,496
While the rich waters
of Patagonia's far south support
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00:27:52,540 --> 00:27:55,151
an amazing diversity
of sea life...
218
00:27:57,632 --> 00:28:01,636
...the land appears desolate.
219
00:28:01,680 --> 00:28:04,117
Much of it is a treeless steppe.
220
00:28:06,772 --> 00:28:10,514
Only the very toughest animals
can survive here.
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00:28:21,961 --> 00:28:23,963
Pascal: Isla Grande,
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00:28:24,006 --> 00:28:27,401
the largest land mass
of Tierra del Fuego,
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00:28:27,444 --> 00:28:30,839
covers 18,000 square miles.
224
00:28:33,668 --> 00:28:38,020
This is the last land
before Antarctica --
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00:28:38,064 --> 00:28:40,631
the very end of the world.
226
00:28:43,852 --> 00:28:46,594
It takes a tough customer
to survive here.
227
00:28:54,341 --> 00:28:58,737
Europeans introduced sheep
around 150 years ago
228
00:28:58,780 --> 00:29:00,564
for wool and meat.
229
00:29:03,742 --> 00:29:07,615
In summer, they graze
on the hills.
230
00:29:07,658 --> 00:29:09,399
But winter is coming.
231
00:29:16,015 --> 00:29:19,540
Freezing rain is forecast.
232
00:29:19,583 --> 00:29:22,325
Shepherd Cristian Trina must
get his sheep down
233
00:29:22,369 --> 00:29:24,197
to his lowland ranch.
234
00:29:26,721 --> 00:29:28,854
All 1,200 of them.
235
00:29:51,093 --> 00:29:53,095
Pascal:
If they get cold and wet,
236
00:29:53,139 --> 00:29:55,489
many could die from pneumonia.
237
00:29:58,405 --> 00:30:01,582
To get to the lower pastures,
they must cover more
238
00:30:01,625 --> 00:30:04,367
than 10 miles before nightfall.
239
00:30:08,154 --> 00:30:11,287
Moving so many sheep
is a tough job,
240
00:30:11,331 --> 00:30:14,856
but Cristian
has some expert helpers.
241
00:30:24,126 --> 00:30:28,609
It's not an easy life,
but Cristian loves it.
242
00:30:39,620 --> 00:30:42,144
But times are changing.
243
00:30:42,188 --> 00:30:45,756
Fewer young people
are choosing this way of life.
244
00:30:48,934 --> 00:30:51,675
And the modern world
is taking over.
245
00:30:56,898 --> 00:31:00,119
A highway now runs alongside the
old traditional trail
246
00:31:00,162 --> 00:31:02,425
Cristian uses for his sheep.
247
00:31:28,974 --> 00:31:33,761
Finally, the flock can move
away from the road.
248
00:31:33,804 --> 00:31:38,287
Their 10-mile journey
is almost at an end.
249
00:31:38,331 --> 00:31:39,985
The weather has held,
250
00:31:40,028 --> 00:31:42,726
and home is in sight.
251
00:32:12,017 --> 00:32:15,803
And just a few miles south
from here, a remarkable animal
252
00:32:15,846 --> 00:32:19,372
is making a surprising
comeback to Patagonia.
253
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The king penguin.
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00:32:54,929 --> 00:32:59,107
These are the only king penguins
on the South American land mass.
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00:33:01,718 --> 00:33:04,199
Once,
hundreds of thousands of them
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00:33:04,243 --> 00:33:06,245
lived on Tierra del Fuego.
257
00:33:08,682 --> 00:33:12,425
But they were hunted to
extinction by European settlers.
258
00:33:15,036 --> 00:33:18,735
It was only in 2010, unexpectedly,
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00:33:18,779 --> 00:33:24,132
a handful of king penguins returned.
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00:33:24,176 --> 00:33:26,917
But the land's owner,
Cecilia Durán,
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00:33:26,961 --> 00:33:29,181
was not the first person
to find them.
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00:34:00,603 --> 00:34:03,867
Pascal: Since that moment,
she has dedicated her life
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00:34:03,911 --> 00:34:06,218
to looking after these penguins.
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00:34:38,163 --> 00:34:41,862
Pascal: To keep them safe,
Cecilia has built an enclosure
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00:34:41,905 --> 00:34:44,647
around the penguins'
breeding grounds.
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00:34:54,570 --> 00:34:58,879
Pascal: Visitors
are kept at a safe distance.
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00:34:58,922 --> 00:35:04,145
Ticket sales fund research
and conservation.
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00:35:04,189 --> 00:35:07,757
Cecilia is so devoted
to protecting them,
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00:35:07,801 --> 00:35:11,674
she is known locally as
"the mother of penguins."
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00:35:36,134 --> 00:35:41,748
The colony may be small,
but it's growing every year
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00:35:41,791 --> 00:35:44,881
under the vigilance
of its passionate protector.
272
00:35:51,236 --> 00:35:53,499
King penguins are under
increasing threat
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00:35:53,542 --> 00:35:56,154
from climate change
and over-fishing.
274
00:35:59,592 --> 00:36:03,073
So their unexpected return
to Tierra del Fuego
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00:36:03,117 --> 00:36:05,075
is something to be celebrated.
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00:36:10,603 --> 00:36:12,779
But where prey goes,
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00:36:12,822 --> 00:36:15,956
predators follow.
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00:36:15,999 --> 00:36:21,004
And a fearsome penguin hunter
has arrived in Patagonia.
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00:36:41,286 --> 00:36:43,331
Pascal:
The San Rafael glacier.
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00:36:47,466 --> 00:36:49,555
Located in southern Chile,
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00:36:49,598 --> 00:36:54,212
hundreds of miles north
of the king penguin colony,
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00:36:54,255 --> 00:36:57,606
it empties into
an almost landlocked lagoon.
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00:37:02,872 --> 00:37:07,747
Because of the steepness of this
glacier and climate change,
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00:37:07,790 --> 00:37:09,705
a lot of ice falls here.
285
00:37:16,016 --> 00:37:17,539
On average,
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00:37:17,583 --> 00:37:21,761
a volume twice the size of
the Empire State Building
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00:37:21,804 --> 00:37:26,331
crashes into the lagoon
every day.
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00:37:26,374 --> 00:37:31,553
And the fractured ice flows hide
a formidable predator...
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00:37:35,296 --> 00:37:38,734
...a leopard seal.
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00:37:38,778 --> 00:37:40,823
Normally, they live and breed
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00:37:40,867 --> 00:37:43,391
almost exclusively
in the Antarctic...
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00:37:46,133 --> 00:37:49,310
...where penguins are one
of their main prey.
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00:38:09,896 --> 00:38:12,072
But in the San Rafael lagoon,
294
00:38:12,115 --> 00:38:15,336
more than 1,200 miles
from Antarctica,
295
00:38:15,380 --> 00:38:17,469
there are no penguins,
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00:38:17,512 --> 00:38:21,473
and it's a mystery how these
seals are surviving here.
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00:38:24,911 --> 00:38:27,348
On a mission to learn
more about them
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00:38:27,392 --> 00:38:30,612
is national park ranger
Nicolas Fernandez.
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00:38:45,410 --> 00:38:47,368
Pascal: Although Nicolas doesn't
yet have the funds
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00:38:47,412 --> 00:38:50,371
to analyze the seals' diet,
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00:38:50,415 --> 00:38:52,765
he thinks he knows
what they're eating.
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00:38:54,984 --> 00:38:57,726
Large numbers
of Patagonian rock cod
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00:38:57,770 --> 00:39:00,642
live just below
the glacier wall.
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00:39:08,998 --> 00:39:10,565
Whenever there's an icefall,
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00:39:10,609 --> 00:39:13,742
the leopard seals
swim directly for it.
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00:39:21,750 --> 00:39:23,578
Nicolas suspects
the leopard seals
307
00:39:23,622 --> 00:39:26,842
are hunting fish
scattered by the impact.
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00:39:36,025 --> 00:39:40,029
But his biggest discovery
has come from his observation
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00:39:40,073 --> 00:39:42,205
of this particular seal.
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00:40:07,535 --> 00:40:10,408
Pascal: Nicolas has proved this
is the most northerly
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00:40:10,451 --> 00:40:14,934
established breeding population
of leopard seals on the planet.
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00:40:22,550 --> 00:40:27,381
In a world where so many large
predators are disappearing,
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00:40:27,425 --> 00:40:30,689
the arrival of this
incredible hunter
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00:40:30,732 --> 00:40:33,996
into new territory
is remarkable.
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00:40:55,714 --> 00:40:58,804
Pascal:
Here in Patagonia's far south,
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00:40:58,847 --> 00:41:02,503
life is making a comeback,
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00:41:02,547 --> 00:41:05,593
returning home to habitats
once abandoned.
318
00:41:08,248 --> 00:41:10,163
Growing in number.
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00:41:13,558 --> 00:41:17,300
And even expanding
into new areas.
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00:41:19,346 --> 00:41:21,609
There are still
great challenges ahead.
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00:41:23,916 --> 00:41:26,135
But the people here
love this place
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00:41:26,179 --> 00:41:30,009
and the life it sustains.
323
00:41:30,052 --> 00:41:34,187
With such passion
and commitment,
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00:41:34,230 --> 00:41:36,015
anything is possible.
325
00:41:41,586 --> 00:41:45,981
Next on "Patagonia: Life on the
Edge of the World"...
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00:41:47,896 --> 00:41:53,032
These are the forests
that time forgot --
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00:41:53,075 --> 00:41:57,123
home to creatures
both strange and wonderful.
328
00:42:01,170 --> 00:42:05,131
Amazing things happen
up in the trees.
25313
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