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1
00:00:12,316 --> 00:00:17,234
Gaffet: First time I saw orca
was quite unexpected.
2
00:00:17,278 --> 00:00:20,194
A quite large group was hunting.
3
00:00:37,254 --> 00:00:41,128
It was this combination
of feeling awe
4
00:00:41,171 --> 00:00:42,433
and at the same time,
5
00:00:42,477 --> 00:00:45,958
a little bit of horror
and shame.
6
00:00:46,916 --> 00:00:50,006
It goes into your heart
7
00:00:50,050 --> 00:00:53,096
and into your mind,
and it doesn't leave you.
8
00:00:59,015 --> 00:01:00,538
Narrator:
At the ends of the Earth
9
00:01:00,582 --> 00:01:03,063
is a land of extremes...
10
00:01:04,499 --> 00:01:06,936
...home to spectacular wildlife.
11
00:01:09,417 --> 00:01:10,940
For centuries,
12
00:01:10,983 --> 00:01:14,074
people and animals
have battled for supremacy.
13
00:01:16,119 --> 00:01:20,036
But now enemies
are becoming allies.
14
00:01:21,951 --> 00:01:25,346
Together they face
new challenges...
15
00:01:27,609 --> 00:01:29,785
...in a rapidly changing world.
16
00:01:29,828 --> 00:01:32,396
You are at the mercy
of the elements.
17
00:01:32,440 --> 00:01:33,702
Narrator:
This is the story
18
00:01:33,745 --> 00:01:35,878
of what it takes to survive...
19
00:01:37,488 --> 00:01:39,882
...on the edge of the world.
20
00:01:54,070 --> 00:01:58,030
The land along Patagonia's
eastern coast is barren.
21
00:02:01,077 --> 00:02:04,036
But the sea is rich with life.
22
00:02:11,479 --> 00:02:14,308
The Andes cut through Patagonia,
23
00:02:14,351 --> 00:02:18,964
blocking moist air
flowing from the Pacific,
24
00:02:19,008 --> 00:02:22,359
creating the eighth-largest
desert in the world.
25
00:02:24,187 --> 00:02:26,058
But off the Atlantic coast,
26
00:02:26,102 --> 00:02:30,193
a cold southern current mixes
with a warmer Brazilian one,
27
00:02:30,237 --> 00:02:33,936
producing the perfect conditions
for marine life.
28
00:02:40,421 --> 00:02:45,077
On land, a wild patchwork
of desolate beaches...
29
00:02:46,601 --> 00:02:49,125
...rocky outcrops,
30
00:02:49,169 --> 00:02:52,650
and towering cliffs
31
00:02:52,694 --> 00:02:55,044
overlook one of
the most important
32
00:02:55,087 --> 00:02:57,177
marine reserves on the planet.
33
00:02:59,527 --> 00:03:02,747
The top predator
patrolling these waters?
34
00:03:05,446 --> 00:03:07,274
Orca.
35
00:03:10,233 --> 00:03:13,845
Also known as killer whales,
36
00:03:13,889 --> 00:03:16,631
the largest members
of the dolphin family.
37
00:03:19,677 --> 00:03:22,767
This pod of 10
is a close-knit group
38
00:03:22,811 --> 00:03:26,162
that will stay together
their entire lives.
39
00:03:29,470 --> 00:03:33,909
The leader of this family
is wise old grandma,
40
00:03:33,952 --> 00:03:35,563
known as Maga.
41
00:03:37,826 --> 00:03:40,437
It's high tide,
and the 40-year-old matriarch
42
00:03:40,481 --> 00:03:43,179
leads her family
towards shore.
43
00:03:45,442 --> 00:03:47,357
Their target?
44
00:03:47,401 --> 00:03:50,752
Unsuspecting seals
and sea lion pups.
45
00:03:54,190 --> 00:03:56,627
But how to get to them
on the beach?
46
00:04:02,503 --> 00:04:05,984
The family has perfected
an ingenious way to hunt here.
47
00:04:10,337 --> 00:04:14,819
First, they swim sideways to
hide their telltale dorsal fins.
48
00:04:18,693 --> 00:04:20,651
The seals have no idea
49
00:04:20,695 --> 00:04:24,307
that these six-ton killers
are so close.
50
00:04:25,961 --> 00:04:28,877
Then the orca
do something extraordinary.
51
00:04:29,965 --> 00:04:31,793
They beach themselves.
52
00:04:44,371 --> 00:04:46,851
It's a remarkable technique.
53
00:04:53,554 --> 00:04:56,644
Beaches are death traps
for whales and dolphins.
54
00:04:56,687 --> 00:05:00,256
It's too easy to get stranded.
55
00:05:00,300 --> 00:05:01,997
But not for this family.
56
00:05:05,174 --> 00:05:09,047
They've learned how to expertly
maneuver back into the sea.
57
00:05:11,789 --> 00:05:15,576
Maga and her pod are one of only
two orca families in the world
58
00:05:15,619 --> 00:05:18,666
known to pull off
this dangerous feat.
59
00:05:23,758 --> 00:05:26,064
Ever since she first
laid eyes on them,
60
00:05:26,108 --> 00:05:28,676
orca expert MarĂa LeonĂ Gaffet
61
00:05:28,719 --> 00:05:32,375
has been fascinated
by these predators.
62
00:05:32,419 --> 00:05:35,857
Gaffet:
I was born here in Patagonia,
63
00:05:35,900 --> 00:05:39,600
quite close to
the PenĂnsula ValdĂ©s.
64
00:05:39,643 --> 00:05:42,907
It was quite a strong experience
65
00:05:42,951 --> 00:05:44,561
to see them for the first time,
66
00:05:44,605 --> 00:05:48,086
especially, you know,
hunting in this manner.
67
00:05:48,130 --> 00:05:52,395
And I guess that's when
they started to exist for me.
68
00:05:59,446 --> 00:06:01,012
Narrator:
MarĂa LeonĂ was determined
69
00:06:01,056 --> 00:06:04,189
to understand their behavior.
70
00:06:04,233 --> 00:06:07,410
She decided to camp out
along this desert coastline
71
00:06:07,454 --> 00:06:11,109
for three months a year
when the orcas hunt the most.
72
00:06:14,983 --> 00:06:18,508
For 20 years she's observed
Maga and her family
73
00:06:18,552 --> 00:06:22,120
and can identify individuals
by their unique markings.
74
00:06:23,034 --> 00:06:27,125
Gaffet:
You take photos of their fins,
75
00:06:27,169 --> 00:06:29,127
of their saddle patches.
76
00:06:29,171 --> 00:06:34,394
The idea is to do observation
of this population
77
00:06:34,437 --> 00:06:39,921
and of their behavior
over long periods of time.
78
00:06:39,964 --> 00:06:42,314
Narrator: MarĂa LeonĂ realized
their hunting technique
79
00:06:42,358 --> 00:06:45,970
was not instinctive,
but learned.
80
00:06:46,014 --> 00:06:47,929
Gaffet:
They start teaching the calves
81
00:06:47,972 --> 00:06:49,800
when they are really tiny.
82
00:06:49,844 --> 00:06:53,630
You know, they start to bring
them to the shore slowly
83
00:06:53,674 --> 00:06:58,243
and safely until eventually
they can do it on their own.
84
00:06:59,375 --> 00:07:00,594
Narrator:
It's an incredible skill
85
00:07:00,637 --> 00:07:03,988
taught by one generation
to the next.
86
00:07:10,647 --> 00:07:14,042
This morning, Maga's
hunting class is in session.
87
00:07:17,698 --> 00:07:19,482
She's working with
her grandchildren
88
00:07:19,526 --> 00:07:22,485
on their stranding technique.
89
00:07:22,529 --> 00:07:24,618
Gaffet:
She's a great teacher.
90
00:07:24,661 --> 00:07:27,185
She's really proficient
and professional.
91
00:07:28,796 --> 00:07:31,102
Narrator:
Today's challenge --
92
00:07:31,146 --> 00:07:34,454
the young calves are to swim
into the shallows,
93
00:07:34,497 --> 00:07:36,543
grabbing clumps of seaweed.
94
00:07:39,589 --> 00:07:42,766
A practice run like this
is critical.
95
00:07:42,810 --> 00:07:44,725
If they master this skill,
96
00:07:44,768 --> 00:07:47,510
they'll never go hungry.
97
00:07:47,554 --> 00:07:51,645
But one wrong move
and they could beach themselves
98
00:07:51,688 --> 00:07:53,255
and die.
99
00:07:57,955 --> 00:08:00,915
Maga leads her class
up to the breakers,
100
00:08:00,958 --> 00:08:03,308
daring them
to grab some seaweed.
101
00:08:05,441 --> 00:08:07,791
And one bold student
goes for it,
102
00:08:07,835 --> 00:08:09,880
launching into the shallows.
103
00:08:18,193 --> 00:08:19,716
Success.
104
00:08:26,462 --> 00:08:29,291
MarĂa LeonĂ has discovered
that it takes four years
105
00:08:29,334 --> 00:08:32,729
for each new generation
to master this behavior...
106
00:08:35,602 --> 00:08:40,563
...allowing this orca pod to
thrive along the desert coast.
107
00:08:43,261 --> 00:08:46,569
While Maga and her family
return to open water,
108
00:08:46,613 --> 00:08:52,009
on land, a real-estate dispute
is about to get bloody.
109
00:09:01,758 --> 00:09:04,761
Narrator: The beaches along
Patagonia's desert coast
110
00:09:04,805 --> 00:09:08,765
at El Pedral
are wild and exposed.
111
00:09:10,724 --> 00:09:13,117
It's not an easy place
to raise a family.
112
00:09:14,728 --> 00:09:18,383
Just ask some of its more
iconic residents...
113
00:09:21,473 --> 00:09:23,345
...Magellanic penguins.
114
00:09:29,917 --> 00:09:32,484
Each spring,
these migratory waddlers
115
00:09:32,528 --> 00:09:35,966
return from their feeding
grounds up north to breed...
116
00:09:39,666 --> 00:09:43,583
...under the watchful eye
of conservationist Popi GarcĂa.
117
00:09:45,672 --> 00:09:47,717
Garcia: The first time
I heard about
118
00:09:47,761 --> 00:09:49,632
something called a penguin,
119
00:09:49,676 --> 00:09:51,678
it was through my grandmother.
120
00:09:51,721 --> 00:09:54,419
She used to tell me
very, very warm and nice stories
121
00:09:54,463 --> 00:09:57,422
about penguins
when I was a small boy.
122
00:09:59,860 --> 00:10:03,515
Narrator: When Popi finally
saw them, he was captivated.
123
00:10:05,909 --> 00:10:08,651
Garcia:
I was 19, 18 years old.
124
00:10:08,695 --> 00:10:11,698
I came to one of the colonies
here in Patagonia,
125
00:10:11,741 --> 00:10:16,006
and that was an epiphany moment
because I had the feeling
126
00:10:16,050 --> 00:10:19,619
that I had to dedicate my life
to their conservation.
127
00:10:25,581 --> 00:10:28,671
Narrator:
Today the beach is busy.
128
00:10:28,715 --> 00:10:30,891
But it wasn't always like this.
129
00:10:32,936 --> 00:10:34,851
Garcia:
The first time I came,
130
00:10:34,895 --> 00:10:38,550
there were only six pairs
of nests.
131
00:10:38,594 --> 00:10:40,465
This place was a real mess.
132
00:10:40,509 --> 00:10:43,817
There were a lot of reckless
people and careless fishermen
133
00:10:43,860 --> 00:10:47,864
coming here,
throwing garbage everywhere.
134
00:10:47,908 --> 00:10:50,737
We needed to protect this colony
because otherwise
135
00:10:50,780 --> 00:10:53,217
they would leave
and they would never come back.
136
00:10:55,132 --> 00:10:57,047
Narrator: It took several years
of clearing trash
137
00:10:57,091 --> 00:11:00,398
and getting local support
to turn this polluted beach
138
00:11:00,442 --> 00:11:02,139
into a protected area.
139
00:11:05,752 --> 00:11:08,232
Popi's efforts paid off.
140
00:11:13,150 --> 00:11:15,457
And the penguins returned.
141
00:11:17,633 --> 00:11:18,982
Garcia:
The colony grew from those
142
00:11:19,026 --> 00:11:21,506
six original pairs of penguins
143
00:11:21,550 --> 00:11:23,944
to over 3,000 pairs now,
144
00:11:23,987 --> 00:11:26,076
so that was a home run.
145
00:11:37,131 --> 00:11:40,612
Narrator: Popi now lives nearby
with his wife, Laura.
146
00:11:40,656 --> 00:11:45,269
During breeding season they
regularly monitor the penguins.
147
00:11:45,313 --> 00:11:47,184
Garcia:
When you work with them
148
00:11:47,228 --> 00:11:48,925
and you visit them
very frequently,
149
00:11:48,969 --> 00:11:50,753
you get to know them better.
150
00:11:50,797 --> 00:11:53,277
And one of the favorite penguins
in this colony
151
00:11:53,321 --> 00:11:55,149
is called Clarita.
152
00:11:55,192 --> 00:11:56,672
Narrator: She is one of
the original few
153
00:11:56,716 --> 00:11:59,240
that restarted the colony.
154
00:12:06,813 --> 00:12:09,946
Garcia: We know that
she's about 16 years old.
155
00:12:09,990 --> 00:12:14,298
She was able to raise 14 chicks,
156
00:12:14,342 --> 00:12:17,998
and the last two chicks
are hatching right now.
157
00:12:25,353 --> 00:12:27,790
Narrator: Popi weighs
and measures Clarita's newborns
158
00:12:27,834 --> 00:12:30,575
to make sure
they're in good health.
159
00:12:46,809 --> 00:12:50,030
Garcia:
Clarita, for me, represents
160
00:12:50,073 --> 00:12:53,903
the hope for this planet.
161
00:12:53,947 --> 00:12:56,732
Whatever we do in terms
of conservation
162
00:12:56,776 --> 00:12:58,386
is really worthwhile,
163
00:12:58,429 --> 00:13:00,562
because this colony
is showing us
164
00:13:00,605 --> 00:13:05,480
that a small action that
we decided to do a long time ago
165
00:13:05,523 --> 00:13:07,395
is having a big impact.
166
00:13:13,880 --> 00:13:16,360
Narrator: The penguins are doing
so well here
167
00:13:16,404 --> 00:13:19,842
they're running
out of nest sites,
168
00:13:19,886 --> 00:13:22,323
leading to a real-estate crunch.
169
00:13:24,891 --> 00:13:28,633
This male has decided to move in
on another family's burrow.
170
00:13:32,072 --> 00:13:35,292
The resident female
watches on concerned.
171
00:13:38,905 --> 00:13:40,297
She calls for her partner.
172
00:14:02,102 --> 00:14:05,366
His guttural squawks
are a show of dominance.
173
00:14:08,630 --> 00:14:12,416
But the intruder
isn't taking the hint.
174
00:14:12,460 --> 00:14:16,072
The two square off,
beak to beak.
175
00:14:32,959 --> 00:14:36,179
The resident on the left
gets in some good jabs.
176
00:14:45,493 --> 00:14:47,756
Finally, bloodied and battered,
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00:14:47,799 --> 00:14:50,454
the home invader
is sent packing.
178
00:14:52,369 --> 00:14:54,894
Next time,
maybe he'll think twice about
179
00:14:54,937 --> 00:14:57,070
moving into
someone else's burrow.
180
00:15:05,513 --> 00:15:09,909
Thirty miles to the north,
on PenĂnsula ValdĂ©s,
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00:15:09,952 --> 00:15:13,564
another colony's numbers
are not doing so well.
182
00:15:22,138 --> 00:15:24,836
The small settlement
of Playa Larralde
183
00:15:24,880 --> 00:15:27,665
has a population
of about 200 people
184
00:15:27,709 --> 00:15:29,189
and shrinking.
185
00:15:31,017 --> 00:15:34,281
Those that remain make
a hard living from the ocean.
186
00:15:35,978 --> 00:15:38,938
One of them is Lucas del RĂo.
187
00:15:52,386 --> 00:15:55,737
Narrator: Lucas forages for
shellfish on the sea floor.
188
00:16:00,437 --> 00:16:03,223
He doesn't use expensive
scuba gear.
189
00:16:03,266 --> 00:16:06,487
Instead, air is pumped
from a compressor...
190
00:16:08,184 --> 00:16:11,013
...through a rubber hose,
191
00:16:11,057 --> 00:16:13,537
directly into his mouth.
192
00:16:21,763 --> 00:16:24,157
Sixty-five feet
below the surface,
193
00:16:24,200 --> 00:16:27,943
he painstakingly collects
mussels and scallops.
194
00:16:30,032 --> 00:16:32,382
It's a good harvest.
195
00:16:32,426 --> 00:16:36,125
Lucas can gather up to 60 pounds
in just a few minutes.
196
00:16:43,350 --> 00:16:47,658
But over his shoulder, there's
another creature lurking.
197
00:17:01,542 --> 00:17:04,980
Narrator: The beaches along
Patagonia's PenĂnsula ValdĂ©s
198
00:17:05,024 --> 00:17:08,679
offer little
in the way of sustenance,
199
00:17:08,723 --> 00:17:11,682
but its rich waters
teem with life.
200
00:17:14,250 --> 00:17:15,730
Below the surface,
201
00:17:15,773 --> 00:17:18,776
diver Lucas del RĂo
is collecting mussels.
202
00:17:21,518 --> 00:17:23,564
And he has company...
203
00:17:24,826 --> 00:17:27,437
...42 tons of it.
204
00:17:46,717 --> 00:17:50,547
There's never a dull moment when
you're working alongside giants.
205
00:18:02,168 --> 00:18:05,301
Lucas takes his haul back
to dry land,
206
00:18:05,345 --> 00:18:07,608
avoiding whales as he goes.
207
00:18:10,132 --> 00:18:14,310
This bay is home
to hundreds of them.
208
00:18:14,354 --> 00:18:18,706
It's one of the largest
nurseries on the planet
209
00:18:18,749 --> 00:18:20,708
for southern right whales.
210
00:18:29,717 --> 00:18:32,023
Their name is a reminder
of a darker past
211
00:18:32,067 --> 00:18:34,722
when these slow-moving whales
were considered
212
00:18:34,765 --> 00:18:36,941
the right ones to hunt.
213
00:18:41,424 --> 00:18:43,992
They were driven
to the brink of extinction.
214
00:18:46,429 --> 00:18:49,345
By the end of the whaling era
in the 1960s,
215
00:18:49,389 --> 00:18:52,914
less than 1,000
were left worldwide.
216
00:18:55,177 --> 00:18:58,180
Researcher Mariano Coscarella
has been monitoring
217
00:18:58,224 --> 00:19:00,617
their population for decades.
218
00:19:18,592 --> 00:19:22,204
Mariano is now dedicated
to protecting these whales.
219
00:19:32,997 --> 00:19:36,262
Taking skin samples
is a key way to monitor them.
220
00:19:46,054 --> 00:19:48,230
But getting one isn't easy.
221
00:20:02,201 --> 00:20:04,638
His crossbow fires
a special dart
222
00:20:04,681 --> 00:20:07,206
designed to collect
a small amount of skin.
223
00:20:09,469 --> 00:20:12,341
He needs to time his shot perfectly.
224
00:20:32,883 --> 00:20:37,584
This single sample will provide
Mariano with a wealth of data --
225
00:20:37,627 --> 00:20:41,979
the whale's genetics, age,
and exposure to pollution,
226
00:20:42,023 --> 00:20:44,330
information crucial
to both understanding
227
00:20:44,373 --> 00:20:48,247
more about the species
and helping its survival.
228
00:21:09,180 --> 00:21:12,662
The southern right whales
have bounced back,
229
00:21:12,706 --> 00:21:17,058
but their healthy population has
attracted unwanted attention.
230
00:21:18,886 --> 00:21:22,063
A mother and her calf
are being tailed
231
00:21:22,106 --> 00:21:26,023
by a family of killers --
232
00:21:26,067 --> 00:21:27,677
orca.
233
00:21:30,724 --> 00:21:33,379
Mom heads for the safety
of the shallows.
234
00:21:37,034 --> 00:21:39,776
But the orca pod quickly
catches up with them.
235
00:21:47,784 --> 00:21:49,438
The young orca
is given the chance
236
00:21:49,482 --> 00:21:52,136
to hone its hunting skills.
237
00:22:02,799 --> 00:22:05,411
The right whale mom twists
and turns,
238
00:22:05,454 --> 00:22:08,762
putting herself between her baby
and the attackers.
239
00:22:23,472 --> 00:22:26,997
In desperation, she wedges
her calf on the sea floor,
240
00:22:27,041 --> 00:22:29,260
protecting its soft underbelly.
241
00:22:35,484 --> 00:22:37,617
Her defensive maneuver works.
242
00:22:39,749 --> 00:22:42,273
The orca call off the attack.
243
00:22:47,453 --> 00:22:49,368
The calf is exhausted...
244
00:22:52,066 --> 00:22:54,938
...and comes in
for a much-needed feed.
245
00:22:58,638 --> 00:23:02,381
He can drink up to 150 gallons
of milk a day.
246
00:23:04,992 --> 00:23:09,431
He'll rely on mom for food and
protection for at least a year.
247
00:23:20,050 --> 00:23:21,965
But the right whales aren't
the only species
248
00:23:22,009 --> 00:23:25,316
making a comeback here.
249
00:23:25,360 --> 00:23:29,146
This corridor from BahĂa Creek
to BahĂa San Blas
250
00:23:29,190 --> 00:23:31,148
is a haven
for several of the ocean's
251
00:23:31,192 --> 00:23:34,848
most misunderstood animals --
252
00:23:34,891 --> 00:23:36,676
sharks.
253
00:23:42,464 --> 00:23:44,988
Blue sharks hunt
along this coast.
254
00:23:45,032 --> 00:23:49,340
Their 5,700-mile journey
around the Atlantic
255
00:23:49,384 --> 00:23:54,084
is one of the longest
of any marine animal.
256
00:23:54,128 --> 00:23:57,871
But there's another dangerous
predator in these waters.
257
00:24:21,895 --> 00:24:24,898
Narrator: Ramiro Cambareri is
one of the most skilled
258
00:24:24,941 --> 00:24:27,248
shark hunters in Patagonia.
259
00:24:35,561 --> 00:24:38,302
Narrator: He's fished these
waters since he was a boy.
260
00:24:50,706 --> 00:24:53,666
Leopard fish is used
to bait the hook.
261
00:24:53,709 --> 00:24:56,843
Its scent will lure in
any sharks in the area.
262
00:25:13,424 --> 00:25:16,427
Each line is attached
to a float on the surface.
263
00:25:18,473 --> 00:25:20,736
It's now a waiting game.
264
00:25:33,444 --> 00:25:35,098
Something has taken the bait.
265
00:25:47,807 --> 00:25:51,158
A sevengill shark.
266
00:25:51,201 --> 00:25:54,901
They normally cruise
close to the sea floor.
267
00:25:54,944 --> 00:25:58,121
However, this one was tempted
by Ramiro's bait.
268
00:26:13,876 --> 00:26:17,488
But this shark
has nothing to fear.
269
00:26:17,532 --> 00:26:20,709
Ramiro's no longer
in the shark-killing business.
270
00:26:23,016 --> 00:26:25,496
He's now working to save them.
271
00:26:32,547 --> 00:26:35,071
Sharks have been pushed
to the brink of extinction
272
00:26:35,115 --> 00:26:37,900
by overhunting.
273
00:26:37,944 --> 00:26:41,643
Ramiro didn't want to continue
being a part of the problem,
274
00:26:41,687 --> 00:26:43,950
And so teamed up
with Juan MartĂn Cuevas
275
00:26:43,993 --> 00:26:48,432
from the Wildlife Conservation
Society Argentina.
276
00:27:02,708 --> 00:27:04,361
Narrator:
For the last five years,
277
00:27:04,405 --> 00:27:05,798
Ramiro has worked with Juan
278
00:27:05,841 --> 00:27:08,278
catching sharks
off the desert coast...
279
00:27:10,977 --> 00:27:13,370
...like this rare tope shark,
280
00:27:13,414 --> 00:27:15,285
which is critically endangered.
281
00:27:22,858 --> 00:27:25,121
Then they insert
an acoustic tag.
282
00:27:27,123 --> 00:27:29,865
It transmits a radio signal,
which can be picked up
283
00:27:29,909 --> 00:27:32,694
by a network
of underwater receivers.
284
00:27:41,311 --> 00:27:42,704
These trackers help the team
285
00:27:42,748 --> 00:27:45,315
to protect the sharks
from other hunters
286
00:27:45,359 --> 00:27:48,231
and teach them
about their migration patterns.
287
00:28:09,252 --> 00:28:11,951
They check if the tracker
is working.
288
00:28:14,997 --> 00:28:17,652
The signal is loud and clear.
289
00:28:35,148 --> 00:28:37,106
Back on land,
290
00:28:37,150 --> 00:28:39,630
thousands of elephant seals
have come ashore
291
00:28:39,674 --> 00:28:42,068
on the beaches
of PenĂnsula ValdĂ©s.
292
00:28:46,986 --> 00:28:50,511
These massive seals spend
more than 80% of the year
293
00:28:50,554 --> 00:28:52,731
feeding out at sea.
294
00:28:55,255 --> 00:28:56,778
When they come back to land,
295
00:28:56,822 --> 00:28:58,998
they've got one thing
on their mind...
296
00:29:01,914 --> 00:29:03,785
...breeding.
297
00:29:08,224 --> 00:29:12,098
This patch is the domain
on one huge male.
298
00:29:14,491 --> 00:29:16,145
He's master of this beach
299
00:29:16,189 --> 00:29:19,105
and has a harem
of two dozen females.
300
00:29:20,846 --> 00:29:23,326
He wants to mate
with all of them.
301
00:29:32,596 --> 00:29:35,991
But a young hotshot is trying
to sneak in on the action.
302
00:29:44,217 --> 00:29:46,697
The beachmaster keeps
a watchful eye.
303
00:29:56,229 --> 00:29:59,101
This new male is taking
a big risk,
304
00:29:59,145 --> 00:30:03,584
but it might be his only chance
to breed this year.
305
00:30:03,627 --> 00:30:05,542
The beachmaster has seen enough.
306
00:30:08,632 --> 00:30:12,419
Time to show this young
pretender who's boss.
307
00:30:24,997 --> 00:30:27,869
Narrator: The beach on
the PenĂnsula ValdĂ©s coast
308
00:30:27,913 --> 00:30:31,655
is about to become the scene
of a heavyweight clash.
309
00:30:35,094 --> 00:30:39,489
Two 5,000-pound contenders
are going head to head.
310
00:30:42,144 --> 00:30:43,667
The prize?
311
00:30:43,711 --> 00:30:46,322
The chance to breed
with two dozen females.
312
00:30:54,461 --> 00:30:57,507
They jab at each other's necks
with their canine teeth...
313
00:31:00,728 --> 00:31:04,079
...followed up with
a two-and-a-half-ton body slam.
314
00:31:09,302 --> 00:31:11,913
This fight is going
the distance.
315
00:31:21,009 --> 00:31:23,577
But in the end,
the rookie backs down.
316
00:31:29,931 --> 00:31:33,892
The big male remains
the master of the beach,
317
00:31:33,935 --> 00:31:35,545
for now, at least.
318
00:31:39,332 --> 00:31:41,290
When the breeding season
is over,
319
00:31:41,334 --> 00:31:44,728
the seals are hungry and return
to the open ocean to feed.
320
00:31:47,340 --> 00:31:50,343
They swim east,
heading hundreds of miles
321
00:31:50,386 --> 00:31:54,477
off the Patagonian coast
to their hunting grounds,
322
00:31:54,521 --> 00:31:59,395
where there is an abundance of
one of their favorite foods --
323
00:31:59,439 --> 00:32:02,311
squid,
324
00:32:02,355 --> 00:32:05,619
an otherworldly creature
that spends daylight hours
325
00:32:05,662 --> 00:32:09,753
hiding at depths
of more than 2,500 feet.
326
00:32:11,364 --> 00:32:14,497
At night, millions of them
rise from the deep
327
00:32:14,541 --> 00:32:16,151
looking for food...
328
00:32:18,371 --> 00:32:20,416
...guided by the light
of the moon...
329
00:32:22,723 --> 00:32:24,333
...or so they think.
330
00:32:29,599 --> 00:32:33,299
It's actually the light
of a 420-foot fishing vessel.
331
00:32:38,043 --> 00:32:40,871
And it's not alone.
332
00:32:43,613 --> 00:32:46,877
Around 150 ships work
these waters.
333
00:32:52,318 --> 00:32:55,103
Each one has
100 powerful lights...
334
00:32:58,063 --> 00:33:00,674
...luring the squid
up to the surface...
335
00:33:02,458 --> 00:33:05,331
...where they're snagged
by a long line of hooks.
336
00:33:09,117 --> 00:33:11,206
Desperately trying
to wriggle free,
337
00:33:11,250 --> 00:33:13,687
the squid squirt jets of water.
338
00:33:17,125 --> 00:33:18,822
But it's no use.
339
00:33:22,000 --> 00:33:26,569
Everyday this fleet can catch
7,500 tons of squid
340
00:33:26,613 --> 00:33:29,007
to be sold in Europe and Asia.
341
00:33:32,575 --> 00:33:35,187
It's a brutally efficient operation.
342
00:33:37,493 --> 00:33:40,496
But these underwater creatures
do have some protection.
343
00:33:46,633 --> 00:33:50,202
The Argentine Coast Guard
is here in force.
344
00:34:07,132 --> 00:34:09,177
Narrator:
Captain Jose Rafael Quinteros
345
00:34:09,221 --> 00:34:11,614
is in charge
of this Coast Guard destroyer.
346
00:34:12,833 --> 00:34:15,792
His mission is to make sure
the fishing fleet
347
00:34:15,836 --> 00:34:18,534
doesn't stray
into Patagonia's waters.
348
00:34:35,029 --> 00:34:36,422
Behind the border,
349
00:34:36,465 --> 00:34:39,077
marine life is protected
from this super fleet.
350
00:34:47,389 --> 00:34:50,479
The crew of the destroyer has
their work cut out for them...
351
00:34:52,829 --> 00:34:56,659
...because this industrial-scale
fishing is relentless.
352
00:34:59,314 --> 00:35:02,404
Large support ships
come to meet the fleet,
353
00:35:02,448 --> 00:35:06,191
taking the squid away,
refueling, and resupplying.
354
00:35:10,282 --> 00:35:12,806
The fishing boats rarely
return to port
355
00:35:12,849 --> 00:35:15,113
and can spend years at sea.
356
00:35:37,570 --> 00:35:41,704
The Coast Guard destroyer is not
alone inside the protected zone.
357
00:35:44,925 --> 00:35:48,494
Nearby are two
endangered ocean giants --
358
00:35:48,537 --> 00:35:50,409
a pair of sei whales.
359
00:35:58,982 --> 00:36:00,593
And closer to shore,
360
00:36:00,636 --> 00:36:03,117
Hundreds of dusky dolphins.
361
00:36:05,511 --> 00:36:08,296
But it's not just Patagonia's
waters that are busy.
362
00:36:10,690 --> 00:36:12,561
The skies above these cliffs
363
00:36:12,605 --> 00:36:16,217
are some of the region's
most crowded airspace.
364
00:36:29,709 --> 00:36:33,887
Narrator: At the northern tip of
Patagonia's desert coast
365
00:36:33,930 --> 00:36:35,845
is El CĂłndor.
366
00:36:37,456 --> 00:36:39,371
Here, the Atlantic Ocean
has been carving
367
00:36:39,414 --> 00:36:42,939
the sandstone coastline
for millennia.
368
00:36:42,983 --> 00:36:46,421
These crumbling cliffs are now
the last refuge of a bird
369
00:36:46,465 --> 00:36:49,163
that used to be found
all over South America...
370
00:36:51,600 --> 00:36:53,036
...the burrowing parrot.
371
00:36:55,778 --> 00:36:57,954
After wintering up north,
372
00:36:57,998 --> 00:37:01,306
pairs return to the same nest
every spring.
373
00:37:03,003 --> 00:37:05,614
It makes, sense given how hard
they've worked
374
00:37:05,658 --> 00:37:08,226
to dig out these homes.
375
00:37:08,269 --> 00:37:11,707
Some stretch back
10 feet into the cliff.
376
00:37:21,108 --> 00:37:24,067
Mauricio Failla is leading
the charge to understand
377
00:37:24,111 --> 00:37:27,070
and conserve the parrots'
last stronghold.
378
00:38:02,062 --> 00:38:04,630
Narrator: Mauricio first
encountered these parrots
379
00:38:04,673 --> 00:38:08,242
while traveling around Patagonia
20 years ago.
380
00:38:08,286 --> 00:38:11,941
He was smitten,
and he's been here ever since.
381
00:38:16,206 --> 00:38:19,775
Mauricio routinely monitors
and counts the nests.
382
00:38:37,837 --> 00:38:42,668
Inside most of these nests
are hungry chicks.
383
00:38:42,711 --> 00:38:46,367
Today it's this mom's turn
to head out on the food run.
384
00:38:51,851 --> 00:38:54,506
The native vegetation
she depends on
385
00:38:54,549 --> 00:38:58,248
is disappearing as fast
as the Amazon rainforest.
386
00:39:01,948 --> 00:39:04,733
To stand any chance
of feeding her family,
387
00:39:04,777 --> 00:39:09,172
she must fly three hours inland
to find seeds and berries.
388
00:39:16,441 --> 00:39:18,443
But the long trip isn't
the only thing
389
00:39:18,486 --> 00:39:20,532
our mom needs to worry about.
390
00:39:22,055 --> 00:39:23,535
As she returns,
391
00:39:23,578 --> 00:39:26,494
she must deal with
the neighbor from hell...
392
00:39:28,453 --> 00:39:30,933
...the fastest animal
in the world --
393
00:39:30,977 --> 00:39:32,587
a peregrine falcon.
394
00:39:36,678 --> 00:39:40,421
Swooping in
at over 200 miles per hour,
395
00:39:40,465 --> 00:39:42,641
it terrorizes the colony.
396
00:39:57,003 --> 00:39:58,961
Our mom waits for her moment.
397
00:40:09,885 --> 00:40:12,192
One parrot doesn't make it.
398
00:40:19,504 --> 00:40:22,332
But our mom gets home safely.
399
00:40:34,823 --> 00:40:39,437
Above Mauricio,
the skies are full of parrots.
400
00:40:43,049 --> 00:40:45,486
And future generations
of these iconic birds
401
00:40:45,530 --> 00:40:48,620
will continue
to return here to nest.
402
00:40:58,238 --> 00:41:02,068
At first, this desert coast
may seem a barren place.
403
00:41:06,115 --> 00:41:08,030
But its rich waters offer life
404
00:41:08,074 --> 00:41:11,425
to a vast number
of incredible animals.
405
00:41:19,999 --> 00:41:23,916
And the continued protection
of these threatened creatures
406
00:41:23,959 --> 00:41:26,527
is now more important than ever.
407
00:41:39,932 --> 00:41:45,024
Next on "Patagonia:
Life on the Edge of the World,"
408
00:41:45,067 --> 00:41:47,156
as summer arrives,
409
00:41:47,200 --> 00:41:50,203
animals are gathering
in Patagonia's fjords.
410
00:41:55,774 --> 00:42:01,257
But these remote, rich waters
are in high demand.
32234