Original subtitles

(contemplative music)

(wind blowing)

(enthusiastic music)

- Our journey begins on the Great Plains

by the Gates of the Mountains,

where the Missouri River flows through a spectacular gorge.

To the south is Helena, the capital of Montana

with a fine cathedral and a state house

built at the end of the 19th century.

Huge numbers of visitors head for Montana

for the beautiful and varied landscape,

and the city of Bozeman stands surrounded

by mountains, rivers and forests.

To the west is the Madison River,

one of the world's best for fly fishing for brown trout.

One of the great Midwest traditions is the rodeo,

and at Ennis we take a look at some of the events,

including barrel racing and bronc riding.

Our final location is the ghost town of Bannack,

perhaps the most evocative site

that represents the gold rush period of the 1860s.

The Great Plains stretch right across the American Midwest.

The land is mainly flat, the soil fertile

and dominated by prairie grasses.

Here in Montana it's often referred to as Big Sky country.

And until the early 19th century,

it was completely unknown to the people

of the new United States.

In 1804, two explorers, Meriwether Lewis and William Clark

set out from the East to find a route

through this unknown land to the Pacific Ocean in the West.

They traveled as much as possible by river,

and on the way they discovered spectacular landscapes.

This is what Captain Lewis wrote on July the 19th, 1805

on the Missouri River.

"This evening we entered much the most remarkable cliffs

"that we have yet seen.

"These cliffs rise from the water's edge on either side

"perpendicularly to the height of 1,200 feet.

"The river appears to have forced its way

"through this immense body of solid rock

"for the distance of five and three quarter miles.

"I called it the Gates of the Rocky Mountains."

(contemplative music)

Today this dramatic canyon is known

as the Gates of the Mountains,

as Lewis and Clark were still some way

from the actual Rocky Mountains.

It's one of the most widely recognized landmarks

of the Lewis and Clark Expedition.

In 1964, roughly 116 square kilometers

were created a wilderness area,

which means that apart from boats on the river,

no motorized or mechanized vehicles,

including bicycles, are allowed.

There are also no roads or buildings.

However, there are over 50 trails for hikers,

and camping and fishing are both allowed with a permit.

The Gates of the Mountains

is one of the most popular destinations in Montana.

And for the less energetic tourist,

boats cruise through this impressive gorge.

(dramatic music)

To the south is the state capital of Montana, Helena.

The state was founded in 1889.

And while it is the fourth largest in area,

it's one of the smallest in terms of population.

In fact, Helena only has around 30,000 residents.

The city was founded in 1864 as a mining camp

during the Montana gold rush.

Over a period of two decades, it's estimated

that $3.6 billion worth of gold was extracted in the area,

making it by the late 19th century

one of the wealthiest cities in the United States.

This concentration of wealth contributed

to the city's prominent Victorian architecture,

including its cathedral.

Construction began on this Roman Catholic cathedral in 1908.

A gothic design was chosen based largely

on a church in Vienna.

The cathedral's most prominent features

are its 70-meter twin spires,

each one topped by crosses nearly four meters in height

covered in gold leaf.

(gentle music)

In 1935, a series of earthquakes

struck the state of Montana,

and the cathedral suffered a great deal of damage,

with the south tower being almost completely destroyed.

The tower was reconstructed, and the cathedral reinforced

to prevent any future disaster.

The first governor of the Territory of Montana

was Thomas Meagher, whose statue stands

outside the state capitol.

This was built in the 1890s,

with additions at either end added a few years later.

The current building was the winning design

of a second competition, after the first had to be abandoned

as the commissioning committee

were planning to extract money fraudulently

from the building project.

The capitol is constructed of Montana sandstone and granite

and is in the Greek neoclassical architectural style.

It's listed in the National Register of Historic Places.

The exterior of the dome is covered with copper,

and on top is a Statue of Liberty,

affectionately known locally as Lady Liberty.

The Montana gold rush also brought silver prospectors.

And in the 1880s, hundreds of claims were struck

in these hills, now the Lewis and Clark National Forest.

In 1887, Montana was the leading silver state,

producing approximately 15 and a half million dollars' worth

of the metal.

But as the miners dug deeper,

the silver contained a higher percentage of zinc,

which was more costly to separate.

Within 10 years, the silver rush was over.

As a result, the small towns which grew up

to service the needs of the miners

were gradually abandoned.

This is the story of one of them, Castle Town.

(lively banjo music)

By 1891, the town had a population of 1,500 people,

including the barkeepers and prostitutes

who provided the miners with their services

if the miners had had a good day prospecting

and could afford them.

At its peak, the town had grown to 2,000 residents,

and according to records boasted a school,

numerous shops, a jail, seven brothels

and as many as 14 saloons.

The best-known resident of Castle Town,

albeit briefly, was Martha Jane Cannary Burke,

better known as Calamity Jane.

A frontierswoman, alcoholic, Indian fighter

and sometime prostitute, she came here

to open a restaurant in the 1890s with her then husband.

Within a few weeks, they had been arrested for debt

and left the town, eventually ending up back in Deadwood

in the Black Hills of South Dakota.

Like many other small mining towns,

when the silver boom was over, the town died a rapid death.

Perhaps because the town is so remote

on private property where permission is needed to visit,

the atmospheric ruins of Castle Town,

which are slowly decaying and returning to nature,

remain a poignant reminder of a bygone age.

As we head southwest towards the town of Bozeman,

we have to cross the Bridger Mountains.

They are named after Jim Bridger,

who pioneered a trail through the mountains in 1864.

He was a mountain man, trapper, army scout

and wilderness guide who explored the Western United States

and became one of the foremost frontiersmen

in the American Old West.

(contemplative music)

The Bridger Range is aligned generally north to south,

with a length of approximately 43 kilometers.

In the autumn, the mountains are a great place

to see golden eagles as they pause here

on their way south for the winter

from Alaska and Northern Canada.

For human visitors, the range offers great hiking

and mountaineering.

The tallest peak is Sacagawea at just under 3,000 meters.

Sacagawea was a Native American woman

who led the Lewis and Clark Expedition

through these mountains on their exploratory journey

across the country in 1805.

(contemplative music)

For the less energetic, there is a scenic drive

through the mountain valleys,

which will lead you to Bozeman,

which stands on the west side of the range.

The city is named after John Bozeman,

who opened up the Bozeman Trail in 1863.

This was a northern spur of the Oregon Trail,

and for a short period provided a route

for miners and settlers to reach the gold

and silver areas of Montana.

Unlike other towns of the period, Bozeman continued to grow,

and in 1893 Montana State University was founded.

It started as an agricultural college

with only five male and three female students.

Today it's the state's largest university

with over 16,000 students.

Their football team is known as the Bobcats,

who have won several national championships.

Bozeman's position near rivers, mountains and forests

has meant it attracts a large number of visitors

who come for the many recreational activities on offer

as well as the spectacular landscape.

(contemplative music)

The success of Bozeman can be seen at its airport.

(airplane zooms)

The original airport was built in the 1940s

and has grown in size ever since.

Today it's known as the Bozeman Yellowstone

International Airport and handles

over one million passengers a year

and has nonstop services to cities such as New York,

Chicago, Denver and Las Vegas.

It's also a good opportunity for us to refuel

before heading off into more remote areas.

(contemplative music)

This is the beautiful Madison River,

which runs for nearly 300 kilometers,

rising in Wyoming's Yellowstone National Park

and flowing north into the Missouri River.

Once again, it was Lewis and Clark

who on their 1805 expedition named the river

after the U.S. Secretary of State James Madison,

who would later become the fourth president.

The river is one of the most beautiful in the state,

and as a result is much visited.

As people hike along the banks,

they might well see an American bald eagle catch a fish.

(dramatic music)

This majestic predator is the U.S. national emblem

and chosen because of its long life,

great strength and majestic looks,

and also because in 1782 it was then believed

to exist only in America.

The Madison River is also a fishing paradise for anglers

with a list of superlatives

from the highest trout density, most consistent catches

and best dry fly fishing.

Not surprisingly, it is one

of the most heavily used fishing rivers in the state.

Many anglers return year after year

as they get to know the river

and where the best spots are to cast a fly.

The fame of the river also attracts anglers from abroad,

as it's considered one of the best places

to fish in the world.

Due to the remoteness of much of the river,

most anglers book a package of a few days fishing

which includes permits and lodging along the river.

(contemplative music)

Another way of fishing is by using drift boats

which offer the chance to slowly move downstream

and fish in different places.

Many come complete with a guide

who will know their particular stretch of water

and where to find the best fish.

The boats have no outboard motor

so as not to disturb the fish.

Drifting with the flow means a silent approach

in the pursuit of a great catch.

(contemplative music)

Another recreational activity on the river is canoeing

and the chance to take in the stunning scenery

as it slowly drifts by.

(contemplative music)

Depending on the stretch being canoed,

there will also be a few rapids.

Some are gentle and easy to navigate,

whilst the more turbulent ones can always be walked 'round.

If a canoe could speak, then this abandoned one

would no doubt have a good story to tell.

For a more exhilarating river activity,

then white water rafting is the answer.

This is the Gallatin River,

which flows north out of Wyoming.

And on this stretch, the water is perfect for rafting.

(lively banjo music)

White water is graded in six classes,

from one which are small, rough areas

that needs no maneuvering to six,

which is effectively impassable.

The water on this stretch of the Gallatin River

is probably between classes two and three.

(lively banjo music)

The flow also depends on the season.

It's at its highest and roughest in the spring

due to the snowmelt coming off the mountains.

In high summer, the level has dropped,

and the flow is a great deal calmer.

Whatever the season, it's an adrenaline-charged ride

where staying dry is not an option.

(lively banjo music)

The Midwest is also well known

for another sporting activity,

which is truly thrilling, the rodeo.

Here in Ennis, the afternoon performance

is about to begin.

Back in 1882, Buffalo Bill, a legend of the Old West,

created the first major rodeo

which he took on tour around the country.

Over the generations, it has gradually turned

into the modern professional rodeo,

which has become an important part of American culture.

The name rodeo means roundup in Spanish,

and the events demand an amazing level of horsemanship.

There are seven main events: bareback riding,

steer wrestling, team roping, saddle bronc,

tie-down roping, barrel racing and bull riding.

Not every rodeo will have all these events.

(lively music)

Barrel racing is a rodeo favorite,

an event traditionally competed in by women.

Riding in a cloverleaf pattern, the riders are timed

as they circle about the barrels,

testing the strength and skill of both horse and rider.

Finally they must return to the start line

when the clock is stopped.

Knocking over a barrel incurs a five second penalty.

(lively music)

In early barrel racing, the pattern alternated

between a figure of eight and a cloverleaf pattern.

The figure of eight was eventually dropped

in favor of the more difficult cloverleaf.

(lively music)

In 1948, the Women's Professional Rodeo Association

was formed so that women could compete in competition.

(lively music)

The next event up is team roping,

and the only rodeo event where men

and women compete equally together in both single gender

and mixed gender teams.

If they are good, it's all over in seconds.

(lively banjo music)

The event is also known as heading and heeling,

as it features two riders and a steer.

The first roper is referred to as the header,

who ropes the front of the steer.

The second rider is the heeler,

who ropes the steer by its hind feet.

There is a five second penalty added

if only one leg is caught.

Cowboys developed this style of roping on ranches

when it was necessary to capture

and restrain a full-grown animal

that was too large to be handled by a single man.

A favorite event in any rodeo is bronc riding,

either bareback bronc or saddle bronc.

It's for the rider to attempt to stay on the horse

for eight seconds without touching the horse

with his free hand.

Not many are successful.

(lively banjo music)

The rider attempts to find a rhythm with the animal

by driving forwards and backwards with his feet

in a sweeping motion from shoulder to flank.

Most bucking horses are specifically bred

for use in rodeos, with most allowed to grow up

in a natural semi-wild condition on the open range.

Strict animal welfare rules are laid down by law.

(lively banjo music)

The rider that manages to stay on for the eight seconds

is helped off the horse by the umpires

in a difficult maneuver and scored on a scale

of naught to 50.

And the horse is also scored on a scale of naught to 50

for its bucking ability.

Scores in the 80s are very good,

and in the 90s are exceptional.

Before Montana became a state in 1889,

it was known as Montana Territory,

which was formed out of part of the Idaho

and Dakota Territories in 1864.

At that time, the population was only around 20,000 people

in a land mass the size of Germany.

The vast majority of that number were Native Americans.

With the discovery of gold in the 1860s,

prospectors arrived to file claims

and hoped to make their fortunes.

There were no proper roads,

just tracks between lawless settlements,

and they were dangerous places to travel.

It's estimated that in the year of 1863,

on a stretch of track similar to this one,

up to 100 men were robbed and murdered.

One of the early gold mining settlements

which quickly grew in size with the influx

of thousands of prospectors and fortune hunters

is Virginia City.

In a nearby gulch, an estimated $30 million worth of gold

was mined in just three years.

The town prospered, and the population grew

to over 10,000, making it one of the largest towns

in the Northwest.

When the gold ran out, the population plummeted,

and the town shrunk in size.

But there was still just about enough gold left

for the town to struggle on.

As a result, Virginia City just stood still

with no money to modernize and upgrade the buildings.

It was a perfect example of the Old West Victorian style.

Today visitors can ride on a stagecoach,

go to the opera house, and even pan for gold.

The city's buildings have been restored,

but also adapted for the thousands of visitors

who come each year to experience this historic place.

Perhaps the most evocative sight that epitomizes Montana

in this gold rush period is our final location,

the ghost town of Bannack.

At its peak in the 1860s,

it had a population of several thousand.

It was extremely remote

and only connected to the rest of the world

by the Montana Trail.

Word spread quickly that Bannack's gold was 99.5% pure,

and the town quickly became known

as the New Eldorado of the North.

As the mining town grew, Bannack gained a reputation

as a rough and lawless place

where robberies, gunfights and murders were commonplace.

A man named Henry Plummer was elected sheriff

in the hope that he could reduce some of the crime.

But it was later suspected

that he was actually a secret leader

of one of the largest gangs,

robbing prospectors of their gold.

He and his deputies were later hanged,

and they were buried overlooking the now deserted town

in a cemetery also known as Boot Hill,

a name given to many Old West burial grounds

during the 19th century in reference to the gunfighters

who died with their boots on.

By the 1930s, the town was deserted

and left to the elements.

Bannack was eventually saved in 1954

when the town and surrounding area

were made into a state park.

Today over 60 structures remain standing

for visitors to explore and relive the Old American West,

an historic place to end this journey.

(dramatic music)