Original subtitles

(soft music)

(air whooshing)

(energetic music)

(upbeat music)

- Our journey begins at Fort Laramie

which protected immigrants wagon trains

on the Oregon Trail during the 1840s.

Flying west we come to the Miracle Mile.

A stretch of the North Platte River

world famous for trout fishing.

On the high plateau to the north

is Independence Rock,

a prominent landmark on the Oregon Trail

where we can see names carved by the settlers.

Close to the border with Utah

is the Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area.

So called for its spectacular red sandstone cliffs.

Flying north we come to the ghost town of South Pass City.

Gold attracted prospectors in the 1860s

and when that ran out the city died.

Our final location is the Grand Teton National Park.

A range of mountains and lakes

famed for its dramatic beauty.

Our journey begins

close to the eastern border with Nebraska

in an arid and fairly desolate landscape.

And it was through this landscape

that vast numbers of 19th Century settlers

trekked west along the Oregon Trail

seeking a better life. (triumphant music)

This is the historic Fort Laramie

which helped protect the immigrants wagon trains.

It was an important trading post and diplomatic site

located at the confluence of the Laramie

and the North Platte Rivers.

It was founded in the 1830s as a private fur trading post

and was eventually sold to the Army in 1849.

The fort was taken over by the Army

largely to protect and supply immigrants

along the Oregon Trails.

In 1851 the first Treaty of Fort Laramie was signed

resulting in relatively peaceful relations

with the Native American tribes in the area.

With the outbreak of the American Civil War in 1861

the troops at Fort Laramie were withdrawn

to fight the Confederate State's Army in the East.

During this period Fort Laramie became a training camp

for several companies of "Galvanized Yankees"

who were Confederate prisoners

recruited into the Union Army.

After the completion of the Transcontinental Railroad

the Fort's importance gradually diminished

as fewer wagon trains were formed

to take the various trails west

and regional Native American tribes had been pacified.

Fort Laramie was finally decommissioned in 1890.

In 1983 Fort Laramie National Historic Site

was preserved by the National Park Service

along with roughly 200 hectares of surrounding landscape.

The Oregon Trail was one of the primary wagon routes

used by immigrants heading westward

across the American continent

in the 1840s (soft guitar music)

It was roughly 3.5 thousand kilometers long

and connected the Missouri River in the East

to valleys in Oregon in the West.

The first foot and horseback trail

was laid by fur traders from about 1811.

And in the 1830s increased in size

to cope with large-wheeled wagons.

And these wagons left their mark

because carved into the sandstone hills here at Guernsey

are the ruts left by thousands of heavily laden wagons.

In places they are well over a meter deep.

This half mile stretch is one of the best preserved sets

of Oregon Trail ruts anywhere along its former length.

The main reason for these impressive tracks

is that the geography of the area

dictated that practically every wagon

that went West crossed the ridge in exactly the same place.

And some trains had more than a hundred wagons.

These pioneers traveled in large groups

for a single, simple reason: safety.

As much of the route was wild and untamed country.

The Army established a line of forts like Fort Laramie

both for protection as well as a trading post

for replenishing stores.

It's estimated that in the 1840s

well over 100,000 wagons gradually carved out these tracks.

The Oregon Trail Ruts State Historic Site

was declared a national historic landmark in 1966.

By the late 19th Century copper and iron ore

had been found in these hills

and settlers arrived in Wyoming seeking jobs

in the mining industry.

Ahead of us (upbeat country music)

is the mining town of Hartville

which today has a population of just 80 people.

It has the distinction

of being the oldest incorporated town

still in existence in Wyoming.

And the Miners and Stockmen's Steakhouse

is the oldest bar in the state.

The town was founded in 1884 when copper deposits

were found in the hill above the town.

And when the copper ran out iron ore and onyx took over.

With the arrival of a railway line the town grew in size

and also became a fairly lawless place

with shootouts and murders being commonplace.

The last mine closed in 1980

and the population then collapsed.

Today Hartville has become a tourist attraction

depicting the early pioneering days of Wyoming.

In 1862, (soft music)

President Abraham Lincoln established

the Union Pacific Railroad Company

to connect the nation from West to East.

It's importance cannot be underestimated.

It revolutionized (train cars chugging)

the settlement and economy of the American West.

It brought the Western states and territories

into alignment with the Northern Union states

and made transporting passengers and goods

coast to coast considerably quicker and less expensive.

Today the railroad is as important as ever.

This Union Pacific freight train is close

to two kilometers in length with double stacked containers.

Many freight trains can even exceed four kilometers.

Today Union Pacific employs around 50,000 people,

operates 8.5 thousand locomotives,

and 95,000 freight cars (train horn blaring)

over 50,000 kilometers of track.

In the arid landscape of Central Wyoming

water is a precious commodity.

So, in the 1930s (soft music)

the North Platte River was dammed

and the Seminoe Reservoir created.

This also produced

a popular recreational area (boat motor humming)

for boating and fishing.

The Seminoe Dam also provides hydroelectric power

as does the Kortes Dam a few miles downstream.

Here the reservoir is not stocked with fish

and there is no access for boating,

but to the north is what is known as The Miracle Mile,

and one of the greatest places to fish in Wyoming.

This world-famous stretch of the North Platte River

is actually over eight kilometers long.

Fed by the two reservoirs it's an extremely fertile

tailwater that offers anglers a chance

to catch enormous trophy trout.

And with approximately 4,000 fish per mile,

there's every opportunity to catch the fish of a lifetime.

Fishing lodges line the banks

and the river is good for wade fishing

and deep enough for boats.

The Miracle Mile trout population is split equally

between rainbows and brown trout

which are resident all year 'round

as well as migratory rainbows and browns

from a reservoir downstream.

On the High Plateau Region of South Wyoming

is a large granite rock. (gentle music)

During the middle of the 19th Century

the rock was a prominent and well-known landmark

on the Oregon Trail and later on the California Trail.

It's known as Independence Rock

because immigrants would set out from the East in April

and hope to reach here on the 4th of July,

American Independence Day.

Many of the immigrants carved their names on the rock

and it was described by an early missionary in 1840

as the Register of the Desert.

In 1843, one immigrant on the trail noted in his journal

everywhere within six or eight feet of the ground

where the surface is sufficiently smooth,

and in some places 60 or 80 feet above,

the rock is inscribed with the names of travelers.

The site was made a national historic landmark in 1961

and is now a part

of the Independence Rock State Historic Site.

A few kilometers to the left the Sweetwater River

cuts through a gorge called The Devil's Gate.

Even though the immigrants did not pass through it

it did act as an important landmark on their journey.

The Oregon Trail,

in this section of Wyoming (soft music)

was also used by the Mormons,

members of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints.

Their trail would end in their new homeland

of Utah and Salt Late City.

This is the Martin Cove Monument

and it's here because in November 1856

about 500 Mormon immigrants in the Martin Handcart Company

were halted here for five days in the cove

by snow and freezing weather

while on their way to Utah.

They had begun the journey dangerously late in the season

and this would lead to a disaster.

More than 145 members of the company died

before two rescue parties were able

to help them on their way.

About a hundred thousand people

visit Martin's Cove each year,

of which the majority are members of the Mormon church.

(air whooshing)

As we head west through the top of Split Rock Mountain

we have to cross the Great Divide Basin,

a flat, arid, desert-like landscape.

But before we do we pass a 1980s ghost town, Jeffrey City.

When a uranium mine (soft eerie music)

opened here in 1957 during the Cold War

the homestead of Home on the Range

grew into Jeffrey City.

And by 1980 around 4,000 people lived here.

Uranium was vital to the nuclear industry

both for weapons as well as for generating power.

As was typical of many boom towns,

Jeffrey City was solely dependent on the local mine

and after it closed in 1982 there was no reason

for residents to remain.

What was once a thriving local community

with shops, schools, churches,

and a library and hospital became a ghost town

as 95% of the residents had left by 1986.

Today just 58 people still live here

making a living from people passing along Route 789.

To reach our next location (upbeat music)

we have to cross the Great Divide Basin

which covers about 10,000 square kilometers.

Any rain that falls here

runs off the surrounding mountains

and stays in the basin.

If this area had a much higher level of rainfall

it could turn into a huge lake.

The Oregon and other pioneer trails

avoided this area and went round it.

Indeed it was known as the Saline Plain.

Thankfully, (helicopter puttering)

there is a small airfield on the southern edge of the basin

because running out of fuel in this desolate landscape

would be most unwise.

(helicopter buzzing)

Close to the border with Utah

is the Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area

where the Green River (soft intense music)

flows through a dramatic landscape.

The area was given the name "Flaming Gorge"

by John Wesley Powell during his 1869 expedition

down the Green River due to the spectacular,

stunning red sandstone cliffs

that surround this part of the river.

The state of Wyoming

has some of the most breathtaking scenery

including the dramatic North Chimney Rock

seemingly standing guard over the Green River.

The river now takes us north

and about 80 kilometers upstream

is the Seedskadee National Wildlife Refuge,

which includes 56 kilometers (birds chirping)

of the Green River.

One of the indigenous animals here is moose.

And this male (soft music)

with his full set of flat antlers,

seems completely disinterested (river water sloshing)

in our noisy helicopter.

Moose are the largest member of the deer family

and striking in appearance

because of their towering size, black color,

long legs, pendulous muzzle,

and dangling hairy dewlap called a "bell".

The name "moose" is common in North America

and derived from the Native American word "moosh",

meaning "stripper and eater of bark".

Unlike most other deer species

moose are solitary animals and do not form herds.

Although generally slow moving and sedentary

they can become aggressive and move quickly

if angered or startled.

Their mating season in the autumn features energetic fights

between males competing for a female.

Continuing north we come to the ghost town

of South Pass City.

And one of the most authentic (upbeat country music)

old gold rush settlements in the American West.

When a large vein of gold was found

at what would become the Carissa Mine in 1866,

the miners flooded in bringing their families with them.

But before this rich vein was discovered

early miners were forced to post lookouts

for the Indians and they always found in limited quantities.

The miners did not begin to search the area in large numbers

until U.S. troops arrived to protect them.

Even then, Indian attacks were frequent and heavy.

By 1868 South Pass City boasted over 250 buildings,

a thousand people, and hundreds of claims.

But within just two years

of the establishment of the Carissa Mine

it began to show its first signs of declining.

And in 1869 hit a slump

as expenses and the hardship of recovering the gold

proved too costly for most miners.

By 1872 the town was only occupied by a few hundred people.

Over the next century

the population of South Pass City declined even further

and many of the cities buildings fell into disrepair.

The last of the pioneer families finally moved out in 1949.

In 1966 South Pass City was purchased

by the State of Wyoming,

and since then around 30 original buildings

have been accurately restored.

Also, some 30,000 original artifacts have been saved.

During the summer months thousands of visitors

come to see this authentic view of the American West

which played an important part in Wyoming's history.

A few kilometers away

is another fascinating part of American history;

the iconic Pony Express Mail Service.

This is Burnt Ranch (upbeat orchestral music)

and one of about 190 relay stations

which cross the continent.

The service began in 1860 and only lasted 18 months

until the transcontinental telegraph was established.

The relay stations were about 15 kilometers apart

and the rider with his pouch of mail

would gallop in and quickly change horses

before setting off for the next station

and another horse.

Riders would change every hundred kilometers or so.

It took just 10 days to cross over 3,000 kilometers

whereas the stagecoach would take around 30.

During it's brief life

the service was remarkably efficient

and only one bag of mail was ever lost.

Burnt Ranch is now an historical monument.

Horses (horse hooves thudding)

have been an essential part of the American story

and none more so than the mustang.

They were introduced by the Spanish

in the early 16th Century

and readily adopted by the Native Americans.

During the 19th Century numbers were so large

that many became wild and began living

in large herds across the Midwest.

Today there are well over 70,000 of these wild horses

which are now protected by law

and either live free or in large sanctuaries.

(horse hooves thudding) (air whooshing)

Continuing north we approach the Wind River Mountains

which are part

of the Rocky Mountains. (intense piano music)

The Continental Divide follows the crest

of this dramatic range and separates the watersheds

that largely drain into the Pacific Ocean

from those that drain into the Atlantic.

Native Americans were living here roughly 9,000 years ago

and the first Europeans to explore the mountains

did not arrive until the early 19th Century.

And it was over a century later that climbers

began conquering the 20 peaks that exceed 4,000 meters.

Much of the Wind River Range received federal protection

as National Forest Primitive Areas during the 1930s

and today the whole range is now largely protected

by three Federal Wilderness Areas.

The term "wilderness" is defined as:

"An area where the earth and community of life

"are untrammeled by man,

"where man himself is a visitor who does not remain."

Wilderness Areas are subject to specific restrictions

where human activities are limited

to non-motorized recreation such as backpacking,

horseback riding, licensed hunting, and fishing.

During these activities visitors are asked

to abide by the Leave No Trace Policy.

When closely observed it ensures that wilderness areas

remain untainted by human interaction.

This means that wildlife like this herd of elk

can live their lives without too much

outside interference. (water sloshing)

Ahead of us is Jackson Hole Valley

so named by early fur trappers (gentle music)

who entered the valley from the north

and thought it looked as though

they were descending into a hole.

The town of Jackson is one of the most popular

all-year-round resorts in Wyoming.

And one of the most photographed sites in the town

are the Elk Antler Arches in the town square.

The first one was put up in 1953

and proved so successful that three more were added

on the other corners.

In 1939 Snow King Resort

on the mountain above the town of Jackson

was the first ski facility in the state of Wyoming.

As we can see it's also used in the summer

to get visitors to the top of the mountain

for 360 degree views of the outstanding scenery.

In 1929 the Grand Teton National Park

was created and dedicated.

The park at that time included the mountains

in the Teton Range and a narrow strip of land

that contained the major lakes at the base of the peaks.

The sheer beauty of this dramatic landscape

was enough to kickstart the tourism industry.

Today tourism has replaced cattle ranching

as the primary economic base of Jackson Hole.

In 1950 the park was enlarged

to include 150,000 square kilometers

which separated it from the Yellowstone National Park

to the north.

This was a gift

from the industrialist John D. Rockefeller Jr.

during the 1930s and 40s.

(energetic orchestral music)

Grand Teton National Park (soft music)

now totals well over a million square kilometers.

But the mountain men were responsible for many,

if not most, of the names in the Valley.

It's said that French-Canadian fur trappers

named the three prominent peaks of the area

"Les Trois Tetons" or "The Three Breasts",

Grant Teton, Middle Teton, and South Teton.

The imposing peaks of the Teton Range

stand nearly 2,000 meters above the valley floor

making one of the boldest geologic statements

in the Rocky Mountains.

The highest mountain in the range

is Grand Teton at 4,199 meters.

And for nearly a hundred years

there's been a fierce disagreement

over who actually first climbed the mountain

as various claims were made in the late 19th Century.

In the 1965 "Climber's Handbook"

the author researched all the various documents

and concluded that "Since historical 'proof'

"is extremely unlikely to be forthcoming

"for either side of the argument,

"perhaps the best way is to state that in 1872

"Langford and Stevenson may have climbed the Grand Teton,

"in 1893 Keiffer, Newell, and Rhyan may have climbed it,

"and in 1989 Spalding, Owen, Peterson, and Shive

"definitely did succeed in reaching the summit."

Today, it's a much climbed peak

and one of the top classic climbs in America.

A dramatic place to end this journey.

(air whooshing)

(upbeat orchestral music)

(soft music)