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(soft music)
(majestic music)
(lively music)
- Our journey begins on the coast
of the Portofino Natural Park a small headland
of dramatic cliffs and woodland surrounding
the famous village of Portofino itself.
Traveling north we come to Genoa,
Italy's largest seaport and birthplace
of Christopher Columbus.
The second largest city in Italy is Milan
which has long been thought of as the fashion
and design capital of the world.
Close the border with Switzerland is Lake Orta
in the middle of which is the island of San Giulio
with its enormous Benedictine monastery.
Italy's largest car manufacturer is Fiat.
Based in Turin, Fiat built a revolutionary
new car plant in the 1920s with a test track on the roof.
Our journey ends in the center of Turin.
A city full of historic buildings from several centuries
going back to Roman times.
This dramatic and beautiful stretch of high cliffs
is part of the Portofino Natural Park
created in 1935 to protect the headland
from future development.
This was necessary, in part, due to the popularity
of Portofino itself which by the 1930s
was becoming a magnet for the rich and famous.
The small, picturesque harbor and its surrounding
cliff top landscape was in danger of becoming
overrun with new villas and hotels.
The new park,
which stretches for six kilometers along the coast,
provided future protection.
Along this rugged coast is a small cove
only accessible by boat or on foot by descending the cliff
and in this cove is the Abbey of San Fruttuoso.
The first official mention of the monastery
dates back to the 10th century when a local bishop
reconstructed an earlier abbey which housed the remains
of an early Christian martyr Saint Fruttuoso.
Over the following centuries, it was expanded
and a watchtower was built in the 16th century
to add protection from pirates.
Today, it's a peaceful place to visit,
listen to a concert, explore the abbey,
or just relax on the pebble beach.
There is a small cafe and restaurant but no shops.
As we make our way north up the coast towards Genoa,
and away from the Natural Park,
the shoreline starts to become built-up.
Small fishing villages, like Recco, have become resorts
as well as dormitory towns for those working in Genoa.
It seems that the closer we get to the city
the more luxurious the villas become.
Those built on the cliffs have spectacular views
out to sea to the west especially at sunset.
(gentle music)
Ahead of us is Genoa, Italy's largest seaport
and sixth largest city.
It also has an interesting story to tell.
Genoa rose from obscurity to become a merchant pirate
superpower in the 12th and 13th centuries
that had huge influence on the medieval world.
It fought bitter battles with its great rival Venice
and even imprisoned the Venetian explorer Marco Polo
as the feuding city-states began connecting Europe
to the glories of the East.
The Black Death was said to have spread throughout
Western Europe from Genoa.
But the Genoese also bankrolled Spain
and gave the world Christopher Columbus
as well as a host of other fearless explorers.
The city was a major embarkation point for
thousands of immigrants crossing
the Atlantic to the New World.
It's home to Italy's oldest football team
and the site of Europe's,
and possibly the world's, first bank.
The city's history can be seen in the many
historic buildings from its early days
through to the enormous buildings of the 19th century.
The winding narrow streets of the old city
offer churches, theaters, museums, and art galleries.
But Genoa is not stuck in the past
it also has a distinctly modern side
such as its array of contemporary architecture
including La Biosfera, a glass and steel greenhouse
designed by the world famous architect Renzo Piano
who was born in the city.
The modern and the old makes Genoa
a fascinating place to visit.
Perhaps the best description of the city
was written by the scholar and poet Petrarch
over 600 years ago.
He described it as "la superba" meaning the proud one.
He wrote that, "It's a regal city blanketing
"an alpine mount whose men and whose walls
"are both full of pride.
"Her mere appearance bespeaking her
"as the mistress of the sea."
As this large container ship leaves the port,
it follows thousands of others that have been arriving
and leaving for well over two and half thousand years.
The city's seafaring history goes back a long way.
It was founded in the 6th century B.C.
by Phoenician and Etruscan sailors
because of its natural harbor,
but was later destroyed by the Carthaginians
and then rebuilt by the Romans.
One monument which has stood for
over 400 years in the harbor,
and is an important symbol of the city, is the Lanterna.
Its light still guides ships in and out of the harbor,
and until 1902 it was the tallest masonry
lighthouse in the world.
Following World War II and heavy storms in the 1950s,
the port was rebuilt and modernized.
It's currently the biggest Italian port
for both cargo and passenger ships
and one of the most important seaports in the Mediterranean,
much of its cotton, silk, olive oil, and wine
are exported from Genoa.
Unlike many cities who have international airports
some distance away from the center,
Genoa's Christopher Columbus Airport has
been built on an artificial island at one
of the entrances to the harbor
and only five kilometers away from the heart of Genoa.
The airport gives us a chance to refuel
and after allowing an executive jet to pass,
we are clear to resume our journey into the north.
High up in the mountains on the top of Monte Figogna
is a Roman Catholic pilgrimage site,
the Shrine of Nostra Signora della Guardia.
The name Guardia in Italian means watch,
and the shrine is so called because
in the Middle Ages Mount Figogna was a strategic
observation station for monitoring the movement
of armies along the coast and of ships approaching Genoa.
According to tradition, on August 29, 1490
the Virgin Mary appeared to a peasant called
Benedetto Pareto and asked him to build
a chapel on the mountain.
As a poor man, he built a small one out of wood
which is now housed inside the new chapel.
Over the centuries, more and more people
visited this pilgrimage site and so it was
gradually enlarged to what we see today
including the first access road constructed in the 1960s.
Heading north, we have to cross the northern end
of the Apennines, a mountain range which
runs up the center of Italy.
In order to do so, we have to rise above the clouds
which gives us some great views of the mountain tops.
In front of us is a blanket of cloud
which although beautiful gives us a problem
since descending through cloud without special
instrumentation is extremely dangerous,
as you have no idea what lies underneath.
The aim, if possible, is to find a gap in the clouds
enabling us to see where we are heading.
We drop down towards the River Po, Italy's longest river,
which runs from the Alps in the west
and drains into the Adriatic Sea to the east
just south of Venice.
The river is over 650 kilometers long
and has over 140 tributaries feeding into it
which often causes flooding along the route.
The vast valley created by the river
is known as the Po Basin
and has become the industrial heartland of Italy.
Indeed, roughly a third of the countries population
live in the area and approaching 1 1/2 million people
live in the region's largest city, Milan.
This is Italy's second largest city after Rome,
though, if you take the surrounding metropolitan area
it becomes the largest,
and the fifth biggest city in the European Union.
Milan is considered a leading global city
with strengths in the arts, commerce, and tourism.
Its business district hosts Italy's stock exchange
and the headquarters of the largest national
and international banks and companies.
The city has also long been thought of
as the fashion and design capital of the world
thanks to international events such
as the Milan Fashion Week and the Milan Furniture Fair.
More than eight million people visit the city each year
attracted by its museums and art galleries
which boast world-renowned collections including,
of course, the fresco of The Last Supper
by Leonardo da Vinci.
Historic buildings in Milan include the Sforza Castle
built in the 15th century
and one of the largest citadels in Europe.
It was extensively rebuilt in the 19th century
and now houses several museums and art collections.
Standing in front of the fortress is the castle fountain
a very popular attraction and a favorite place
to be photographed on special occasions.
La Scala is Milan's world famous opera house
which opened in 1776.
The theater is regarded as one of the greatest in the world
and in the 19th century, La Scala was chosen
for the premiere of six of Giuseppe Verde's operas.
The city is full of interesting buildings from every age.
This is the Velasca Tower built in the 1950s.
Its structure is a modern interpretation
of a northern Italian medieval castle tower
where the lower part was always narrower.
There are over 40 historic churches in the city.
This is the Basilica of San Lorenzo which has
a history stretching back to Roman times.
It became a symbol of that empire during the Renaissance
when it was study by leading architects
including Leonardo da Vinci.
Over the centuries it has been added to and rebuilt
following earthquakes and fires.
This is the Milan Central Railway Station
which replaced an earlier one of 1864.
It was built on the north side
of the Piazza della Repubblica.
Started in 1906, it took nearly 25 years to build
due to war, economic decline, and design changes
under fascist leader Benito Mussolini
who wanted the station even grander.
When the station was refurbished in 2006
it was decided that for historical reasons
certain areas would remain unrestored
but inaccessible to the public.
This included a waiting room with swastikas on the floor
designed to receive Adolf Hitler.
In the center of the city, is the Piazza del Duomo
which was created in the 14th century, though,
except for the cathedral itself,
what we see today is largely from the 19th century.
On the north side is the impressive
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II constructed in the 1860s.
It's the world's oldest active shopping mall
and consists of two glass vaulted arcades
with a central octagonal space topped with a glass dome.
It may well have inspired the use of the term galleria
for many other shopping arcades and malls around the world.
Milan's cathedral has taken nearly
six centuries to complete.
It's the second largest church in Italy
after St. Peter's in Rome,
and the third largest in the world.
The decoration on the exterior includes
well over 2,000 statues and 135 spires.
The cathedral was built over a Roman basilica
from the 4th century with construction beginning
in 1386 and not officially ending until
the last gate was installed in 1965.
Over the centuries, it's been both admired
and vilified by critics.
Some have found it too flamboyant
or even monstrous in its design.
Most, though, thought it a masterpiece.
The writer Mark Twain devoted a chapter
in one of his books extolling its wonder.
Some of his comments cannot be bettered.
"What a wonder it is.
"So grand, so solemn, so vast, and yet so delicate,
"so airy, so graceful.
"Up on the roof were the long files of spires
"we could see, now, that the statue on the top of each
"was the size of a large man though they all looked
"like dolls from the street.
"They say that the Cathedral of Milan
"is second only to St. Peter's at Rome.
"I cannot understand how it can be second
"to anything made by human hands."
During the summer months, many families from Milan
and around the world head for the beautiful Italian lakes
to stay in small waterside villages, grand hotels,
mountain retreats, or perhaps just to explore
the many lakes in a boat.
On Lake Orta, the most westerly of the lakes,
it's possible to visit the small
and peaceful island of San Giulio.
It takes its name from a local patron saint,
Julius of Novara, who lived in the second half
of the 4th century and died on the island.
Every trace of earlier religious buildings
disappeared in the 19th century when this
massive seminary was built in the 1840s.
In 1976, it became the largest monastery of
Benedictine nuns in the world.
On the way to our next location
we pass an outstanding example of modernist
architecture of the mid-20th century.
This futuristic house appears to be a flying saucer
suspended above a flowing white stone base.
Even today, it's still a very striking and original house.
For one of the best views of Lake Orta
it's worth making the trip up to the
Sanctuary of Madonna del Sasso,
meaning Our Lady of the Rock.
Standing on a high granite spur,
over 600 meters above the lake,
visitors can see as far as the snow-capped Alps
over 30 kilometers away.
In 1703, a local merchant who said he had
received God's grace, decided to finance
and build a new sanctuary which would
replace a small medieval chapel from the 16th century
dedicated to Our Lady of Sorrows.
By 1748, the church built in the form of a Greek cross,
was complete while the bell tower and priest's house
were finished 12 years later.
In 1998, the whole complex was restored.
(choral singing)
From the Italian lakes, we climb into the foothills
of the southern Alps towards one of the largest
and most important religious complexes in Italy,
the Sanctuary of Oropa.
According to legend, a black wooden statue
of the Virgin Mary, carved by Saint Luke,
found its way to Oropa in the 4th century
and was placed into a small niche in a large boulder.
Several hundred years later,
a church was built around the boulder,
and in the early 17th century it was replaced
with what is known today as the Ancient Basilica.
In the following two centuries,
several other buildings are added to the complex
creating three large courtyards including
the royal apartments and a large library.
The last building to be added was the upper basilica,
a monumental church constructed between 1885 and 1960.
This was needed as around 800,000 people
visit the sanctuary each year.
Alongside the sanctuary is the sacred mount of Oropa
which consists of 12 small chapels showing different
scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary.
They were built in the 17th century
and are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The expansion of the sanctuary over the years
has led to a change in its use from stopover
point for pilgrims to becoming a destination
in its own right.
Today, there is a hotel with 300 rooms
spread across the complex,
as well as several restaurants and shops.
We now head south out of the mountains
towards Turin and a hunting lodge.
While the words hunting lodge might
bring to mind something small and humble
in the case of the magnificent Stupinigi Palace
nothing could be further from the truth.
(trumpets playing)
This hunting lodge was built in 1729
on the orders of Vittorio Amedeo II
the Duke of Savoy and King of Sardinia.
The palace is excessive, extravagant, and splendid
all at the same time.
The main building broadly circles an inner courtyard
which itself is reached from a larger open garden area
and between two massive wings.
There is nothing small scale about Stupinigi.
Today, the palace is open to the public.
It's also a UNESCO World Heritage Site
as it represents some of the finest European
18th century monumental architecture.
In the distance is the city of Turin's industrial district
and one of the best-known car
manufacturers in the world, Fiat.
Today the company is the largest automobile
manufacturer in Italy producing around
1 1/2 million cars a year.
The first Fiat was built in 1899
and had a production run of just 24.
By 1916, Fiat had close to 80% of the Italian car market
and decided to build a revolutionary new car plant
the Lingotto Building which featured
a test track on its roof.
The plant opened in 1923.
The design was unusual in that it had five floors
with raw materials going in at the ground floor
and cars built on a line that went up through the building,
finished cars emerged at rooftop level
to go onto the test track.
At that time, it was the largest car factory in the world,
but by the 1970s it had become outmoded
and was finally closed in 1982.
It was then converted into a complex of offices,
shopping arcades, and a hotel.
Most importantly, however, the test track was retained
and since been used as a location
for many films and commercials.
Turin is the capital of the Piedmont District
and an important business and cultural center.
It sits in the foothills of the Alps
and guards the entrance into Italy,
as such, it has seen conflict and conquest
for well over 2,000 years.
The Romans established a town here, Augusta Taurinorum,
and the Palatine Gate remains one
of the best preserved from the Roman world.
Turin is full of historic buildings spanning
several centuries.
However, Allied bombing during World War II
damaged much of the city as the city's industrial area
was a prime target.
One building that largely escaped damage
was the Mole Antonelliana which stands
just under 170 meters high.
It was completed in 1889 and was the tallest
brick building in Europe at the time.
It was named after its architect, Alessandro Antonelli
and was bought by the city and made into a monument
to national unity.
Visitors can go up to the panoramic terrace
and take in amazing views of the city
and the surrounding Alps.
Located right in the center of Turin
is one of the city's most important sites,
the Palazzo Madama.
From the air, it looks like two different
buildings joined together.
The towers at the rear are rebuilt Roman ones
and were incorporated into the 14th century castle.
In the 17th century, it became the residence
of the Duchess of Savoy who decided to build
a new Baroque palace in white stone on the site.
Unfortunately, she had to flee the city
during a war with France and the only
section finished was the west side
which largely contained an impressive double staircase.
The palace has remained unchanged ever since.
An intriguing place to end this journey.
(majestic music)
(soft music)
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