Original subtitles

(swooshing)

(electronic chiming)

(wind blowing)

(inspirational music)

(energetic music)

(inspirational music)

- Our journey begins

at the Vatnajokull National Park at Lake Ostkjuvatn,

one of the deepest lakes in Iceland

and formed in an old volcanic crater.

The center of the national park is taken up

by the large Vatnajokull ice sheet,

which covers mountains and some very active volcanoes.

At the southern edge of the ice cap,

is Jokulsarlon, a beautiful lagoon where icebergs float

after breaking off the end of a glacier.

Much of Iceland's dramatic landscape

has been formed by volcanic activity.

And one of the most photographed

dormant volcanoes is Maelifell Crater.

Glaciers have also shaped the landscape.

And the Myrdalsjokull Glacier

is a good example of one in action.

Our final location is Gullfoss,

one of the most popular and spectacular

waterfalls in Iceland.

Our journey begins in the northern part

of the Vatnajokull National Park.

(soft piano music)

This is by far the largest of Iceland's three parks,

and covers around 14,000 square kilometers.

And here in the north,

is one of the deepest lakes in Iceland, Lake Oskjuvatn.

It's situated at the crater of the volcano Askja

and its name simply means the Lake of Askja.

Like so much of Iceland, this is a young landscape

that is still forming as the volcano

last erupted in only 1875.

At the time, this had a devastating effect

on the whole country, as it caused a wave of emigration.

Seismic activity on the northeastern rim of the caldera,

or crater, has been increasing lately,

hinting at the possibility of an eruption

in the near future.

Alongside Oskjuvatn, is a smaller,

water-filled crater, Lake Viti.

It was formed in the eruption of 1875,

but parts of it are still boiling hot.

During summer months,

it's a popular place among tourists for bathing,

but it's best not to swim unless there is some wind

as carbon dioxide can collect above the surface,

causing swimmers to pass out.

Vatnajokull National Park was only established in 2008,

and covers roughly 14% of the country.

We are looking at the edge of Europe's largest glacier,

outside the Arctic at the heart of the national park.

On average, the ice is about 500 meters thick

and at its deepest, around 950 meters.

This enormous glacial ice sheet conceals a number

of mountains, valleys, and plateaus.

While the ice cap rises at its highest

to over 2,000 meters above sea level,

the glacier base reaches its lowest point,

300 meters below sea level.

It's also hard to believe that under this white ice sheet

are several active volcanoes.

Eruptions over the centuries have lead to the development

of large pockets of water beneath the ice,

which may burst the weakened cap and cause what's called

a glacial lake outburst flood.

In more modern times,

these volcanoes continue to erupt beneath the ice cap.

In 2011, Grímsvötn exploded,

smashing through the thick ice cover

and spewing ash into the air to a height of 20 kilometers.

It brought air travel across northeastern Europe

to a halt for five days.

Running off the ice cap are a series of glaciers,

which are formed by the growing weight of ice

between mountains, which is forced

under pressure and gravity

to move very slowly downwards,

often over centuries.

This is the Breidamerkurjokull glacier,

which ends in a small lagoon known as Jokulsarlon.

As the icebergs break away from the tongue of the glacier,

they drift slowly to the mouth of the lagoon,

and eventually join the ocean.

(ethereal music)

It's estimated that these icebergs will float

in the 300-meter-deep lagoon for five years

until they are small enough to make their way to the sea

along Iceland's shortest river.

The lake was formed as the glacier began retreating

at the end of the 19th century and water filled

the depression carved out by the ice.

The lake visibly demonstrates the effects

of global warming as it grows in size each year.

And the glacier's tongue now floats in the icy water.

Due to their position near the coast road,

Jokulsarlon and its glacier have become

a major tourist attraction.

Indeed, they have become one of

Iceland's most popular attractions

due to the immense beauty of this area.

Boat tours take visitors around the lake

where seals can occasionally be seen resting on the icebergs

and along the edge of the tongue,

where icebergs can be seen breaking off.

The glacier is beset with enormous cracks and crevasses.

And since it's virtually impossible to tell

exactly when the next big block of ice will break from it,

visitors on foot should admire

this dramatic landscape from a great distance.

However, from our helicopter,

the view up close is spectacular.

Iceland is a geologist's dream location.

Unlike stable regions formed thousands of years ago,

it's a place that's still being created today.

The results of all this activity

are incredibly varied and dramatic landscapes,

such as black sand beaches.

When lava, at over 750 degrees Celsius from a volcano

hits the cold ocean, it explodes

and forms small glass-like shards of rock,

which become rounded as the ocean waves erode them.

These beaches can also be formed in a similar way

to white sand beaches by erosion,

as the ocean pounds the black volcanic rock

and breaks it up before forming it into small grains

by the time it reaches the sea.

And as on many shores around the world,

a wrecked ship slowly rots away,

its decaying hull resembling the skeleton

of some mythical sea creature.

Inland from the coast and across an old lava bed,

is the beautiful Fjadrargljufur Canyon.

(soft piano music)

It's two kilometers long and was formed

around 9,000 years ago at the end of the last ice age.

When the glacier, which was above the canyon, retreated,

a lake formed on the hard rock carved out by the ice.

As the lake overflowed, it formed a river,

which cascaded down, depositing sediments

in the valley below and gradually forming the canyon.

Eventually, the lake itself filled with deposits.

And so, the river's strength dwindled.

Over the centuries, the river began to dig itself

deeper into the sediment layers in the narrow canyon,

creating the landscape we see today.

Over thousands of years, the sheer power of nature

has sculpted this wonderful canyon

for today's visitors to enjoy.

More recent geological events in Iceland

have had devastating consequences.

This is Lakagigar, a line of 320 volcanic fissures,

which for eight months from June 1783,

violently erupted in one of the most

catastrophic global events of the last millennium.

These volcanoes poured out an estimated 42 billion tons

of lava accompanied by clouds of poisonous compounds,

which contaminated the soil over a vast area

and destroyed the majority of the country's crops.

The lava flows also destroyed 20 villages.

This lead to a famine, which killed

approximately 25% of Iceland's population.

The Laki eruption also caused a drop

in global temperatures as 120 million tons

of sulfur dioxide was spewed

into the atmosphere of the Northern Hemisphere.

It caused crop failures in Europe

and may well have been responsible

for droughts as far away as North Africa and India.

This is the Shutlabak Nature Reserve,

(soft music)

an extraordinary landscape which seems

as though it has come from another planet.

It's place where human beings have never settled.

And parts of it are so remote,

that few people visit even today.

Here nature it still at its rawest,

with glaciers, deserts of black sand,

barren glacial debris, steaming hot springs,

active and spent volcanoes, and oases of vegetation.

This spectacular, other-worldly place,

which sits on an unstable base, is still forming.

And as a result, has created this strange,

but astonishingly beautiful landscape.

And in this landscape are steam vents or fumaroles,

which are often found in active volcanic area

and emit not just steam, but poisonous gases

such as carbon dioxide, sulfur dioxide,

and hydrogen chloride.

They occur where groundwater interacts with magma

or hot volcanic rock at a shallow depth.

These vents may last for decades or even centuries

if they are above a long-lasting heat source.

The nature reserve contains many of the most impressive

natural features such as stupendous ravines,

steep volcanic rock screes,

(liquid bubbling)

boiling hot mud springs,

hot pools, waterfalls,

(water splashing)

azure-blue lakes,

cold mountain streams, and amazing neon-colored moss,

which grows in these cold, harsh conditions.

Looking at this extraordinary landscape,

it's no wonder that Iceland has been

the location of choice for so many

of the best-known science fiction films.

But perhaps this is one of the most iconic sights,

the Maelifell volcano, rising like a green beast

out of flat, black lava bed.

Its last eruption was around 10,000 years ago

at the end of the last ice age

and it's been dormant ever since.

The sheer beauty of Maelifell's almost perfect 800-meter

green cone has made it a major tourist attraction,

though it can only be reached by

a four-wheel drive vehicle

when the surrounding rivers have not flooded.

Overlooking the volcano is Myrdalsjokull Ice Cap

and the country's fourth largest,

covering nearly 600 square kilometers.

Underneath the ice is the very active Katla volcano,

with a crater 10 kilometers wide.

It has regularly erupted every 40 to 80 years.

The last time was in 1918.

That's some history would say that another eruption

is due in the near future.

This is the Myrdalsjokull glacier,

which was blown apart by the 1918 eruption,

scattering all the debris it has scoured away

from the mountain valley and creating an enormous

and very high ash cloud.

The resulting lava flow pushed out

the coastline by five kilometers.

In 2010, the President of Iceland said,

"The time for Katla to erupt is coming close.

"It's high time for European governments

"and airline authorities all over Europe and the world

"to start planning for the eventually eruption."

(inspirational music)

Katla is heavily monitored and roads around it

closed when seismic activity increases.

Perhaps, it's a good time to fly away.

This volcanic area is virtually uninhabited

due to the ever-present danger.

Only a few remote barns have been built for cattle

and perhaps hikers trapped in bad weather,

because despite the possibility of an eruption,

this area is a great place for exploring

the varied and dramatic landscape of Iceland.

This is the Thorsmork Nature Reserve,

a landscape of glacial rivers

cutting through black desert,

as well as Thorsmork itself,

which is a high mountain ridge.

(soothing guitar music)

In the distance, several glaciers slide off

the Eyjafjallajokull Ice Cap and it's volcano,

which erupted in 2010,

causing a six-day shutdown of much of Europe's air space.

It also covered the immediate area

with a layer of volcanic ash,

which took several months for nature to return to normal.

Parts of the nature reserve are rich

with mosses, ferns, and birch wood,

as the climate here is warmer than usual for South Iceland.

This mixture of extreme landscapes is unique

not just to Iceland, but also the world.

It's also a great place for camping, hiking, and trekking.

This is the Bosar campsite,

which offers sleeping bag accommodation in a hall,

access to a common or kitchen,

huts and tents to rent, as well as

a place to pitch your own tent.

As we can see, the location and views are spectacular.

And there are trails to suit all ages and fitness levels,

some of which, are lead by a guide.

(optimistic music)

Unless you hire a car,

the best way to get to campsites in the parks is by bus.

In Iceland, there are no trains.

However, buses are often delayed due to weather,

and in certain places, there may just be one bus a day.

Except for the country's ring road,

which is mainly asphalted,

most are dirt roads of varying degrees of smoothness.

Some of the minor roads have rocks sticking out

and potholes and are only suitable

for four-wheel drive, off-road vehicles.

Driving on a dirt or volcanic gravel road

is not the same as a smooth tarmac one.

It's easy to slide off.

There are no white lines or lights,

animals can cross unexpectedly,

rivers have to be crossed, and it's essential to make sure

you have a full tank of fuel

as garages are few and far between

in these remote landscapes.

In winter, drivers have to contend with snow and ice.

And in the summer, dust can be a hazard.

Here, nature has created a small tornado in this dry desert

until we create our own dust cloud with the helicopter.

Another hazard for motorists are Iceland's rivers,

which can become a real obstacle

when they are swollen with meltwater.

Surrounding land can be quickly flooded

and roads become impassable.

This is the Markarfljot River,

which runs for about 100 kilometers.

A wide riverbed in dryer times

creates some truly beautiful shapes,

patterns, and reflections.

(perky orchestral music)

According to folk tales, there is a monster in the river,

which originated from a large skate or ray

thrown into the river by a local farmer

after it had been hung up to dry.

The farmer hoped to protect the people from glacial floods.

The skate came to life and turned into a monster.

It's said that when fording Markarfljot on horseback,

there is a danger of skidding on the skate.

Emerging out of the mist is one of the most sought-after

and photographed waterfalls in Iceland, Seljalandsfoss.

(ethereal music)

There is something mesmerizing about watching falling water,

which has an almost universal appeal.

This narrow cascade falls 63 meters in a way

that allows visitors to walk behind it

in a natural carved-out section of the cliff.

Here, visitors can listen to the roar of the water

and feel the mist on their faces.

It's the only waterfall of this kind in the world.

There are an almost endless number of waterfalls

in Iceland from high to low, broad to narrow.

Some are thunderous and menacing,

while others seem melodic and inviting.

Seljalandsfoss can be seen from miles away

and draws a visitor in to marvel

at this beautiful feat of nature.

(helicopter blades thumping)

Close to falls in Bakki Airport,

which handles short-haul flights.

And following the sensible advice

that motor vehicles should keep

as full a tank of fuel as possible,

we should follow suite and refuel,

as our last location is in a remote area.

The one form of transport that has not been

mentioned so far is the Icelandic horse,

which despite mechanization,

still plays a part in farming life.

They are also used in racing.

And here in Hella,

on the banks of the Ytri-Rangá River,

is the National Icelandic Horse Competition,

which goes on for a week and is a great family event.

As well as racing, there are shows

for breeding mares and stallions and a competition

for the horse that displays the best tolt,

which is like a fast trot.

The horses are almost pony-sized

and they are long-loved and hearty.

They have few diseases and indeed,

Icelandic law prevents any horses

from being imported into the country

and exported animals are not allowed to return.

The ancestors of the Icelandic horse

were probably taken to Iceland

by Viking-age Scandinavians around the 9th century.

They brought their farming traditions with them

and settled in the south of the country.

For centuries, the main industries

were fishing and agriculture.

And by the 19th century,

close to 80% of the population lived by farming.

Since then, there has been a steady decline

in this dependency and today, the figure is less than 5%.

But even with the sharp drop,

the country is still self-sufficient

in meat, dairy products, and eggs.

We approach our final location up the Hvita River,

where it has formed a narrow gorge over thousands of years.

It's a popular place for river rafting,

especially in the canyon.

Today, the river is shallow, fast-flowing,

but seemingly benign.

However, in the last 100 years,

two bridges have been washed away

when the river rises and the massive force of water

sweeps down the gorge, destroying everything in its path.

At the north end of the gorge is our final location

and perhaps Iceland's favorite waterfall, Gullfoss.

(cheery instrumental music)

In Icelandic, Gullfoss means golden waterfall

and it has a great story to tell.

In the early 20th century,

foreign investors wanted to harness the power of Gullfoss

and buy it from Tomas Tomasson,

a farmer who owned it at the time.

He declined the offer but later leased it to the investors.

The farmer's daughter, Sigrídur,

sought to have the rental contract voided.

She used her own savings to hire

a lawyer to defend her case.

The trial lasted years and Sigrídur

even threatened to throw herself into the waterfall

if the construction began.

Her attempts failed in court,

but before any damage was done to the waterfall,

the contract was canceled due to

the lack of payments of the rent fee.

Sigrídur's struggle to preserve the waterfall

brought to people's attention

the importance of preserving nature.

And therefore, she's often called

Iceland's first environmentalist.

In 1979, it became a nature reserve

to permanently protect Gullfoss and allow the public

to enjoy this unique force of nature.

A perfect place to end this journey.

(intense, inspirational orchestral music)

(swooshing)

(electronic chiming)