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(logo chiming)
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(bright orchestral music)
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(upbeat orchestral music)
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- Our journey
begins at Glucksburg Castle,
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once in the Kingdom of
Denmark and now in Germany.
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To the south is the
100-kilometer Kiel Canal,
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which joins the Baltic and North Seas.
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Off the west coast are
the Frisian Islands,
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separated from the mainland
by sandbars and mudflats.
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They are well known for
their beautiful beaches.
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Back inland is Hamburg, the
second largest city in Germany,
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and home to one of the
biggest ports in Europe.
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During World War II this
whole region was devastated
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by Allied bombing raids
and eventually invasion.
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At the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp
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there is a stark reminder
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of the horrors of Nazi Germany.
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Our final location is on
the outskirts of Hanover,
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Herrenhausen, one of the greatest
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formal Baroque gardens of Europe.
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Back in the 16th century,
when Glucksburg Castle
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was built in the region
of Schleswig-Holstein,
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this area was part of Denmark.
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In fact, it was Danish up until 1864.
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And in 1863 the castle was lived in
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by the Prince of Schleswig-Holstein,
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who as heir to the Danish
throne became King Christian IX,
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and created the Royal House of Glucksburg,
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which rules to this day.
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However, in 1864 Denmark
was at war with Germany
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over the possession and status
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of both Schleswig and Holstein.
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The Danes lost following a
disastrous and bloody conflict,
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and the two regions
became part of Germany.
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The king may have lost his castle,
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but he was to become known as
the father-in-law of Europe,
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as his descendants married
into 14 royal families,
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including Britain, Belgium,
Norway, Russia, Spain,
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Sweden, Austria, and Germany.
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(ship's horn blaring)
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This container ship is
navigating the Kiel Canal,
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which joins the Baltic
Sea to the North Sea
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and is nearly 100 kilometers long.
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Germany doesn't owe a great
deal to its last kaiser,
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especially since he led his
country into political isolation
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and the disastrous First World War.
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But, building the canal in the 1880s was,
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in the long term, a good decision.
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It was originally named after
the monarch's grandfather
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and built to make the German
Navy more maneuverable.
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The canal also avoided
the need for German ships
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to pass the narrow sand
between Sweden and Denmark,
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the country they had
just been at war with.
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As the size of the ships
in the Imperial German Navy
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increased to match the British fleet
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the canal had to be widened
between 1907 and 1914.
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This allowed the passage
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of the vast dreadnought-sized battleships.
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The Kiel Canal has since
become a busy commercial route.
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Roughly 35,000 ships pass
through the canal each year,
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more than through the Panama
and Suez canals combined.
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There are detailed traffic
rules for the canal
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and strict regulations
regarding the passing
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of oncoming ships.
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(bright music)
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At either end of the canal are locks,
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in order to control the water levels
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between the Baltic and the North sea.
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The east end of the canal
are the Kiel-Holtenau locks
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where ships enter and
leave the Baltic Sea.
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Originally there were two,
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but by 1914 two larger ones were added
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in order to accommodate
German battleships.
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They are now known as the
smaller and greater locks.
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The operation is in the
hands of the lock masters,
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who organize them in such a
way that as far as possible,
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there are no waiting times for the ships.
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It takes around 25 minutes
to go through a lock
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and the transit time along the canal
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is roughly seven to eight hours.
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The time saved by not
going through the entrance
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to the Baltic between Denmark and Sweden
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is roughly 30 hours,
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which also means a great saving in fuel.
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Our journey now takes a
southwest towards the coast,
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and on the way we pass Breitenburg Castle,
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which has a history stretching
back to the 16th century.
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The building we see today
was largely constructed
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in the 19th century in a neo-gothic style.
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Until 1864 the house was in Denmark,
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and a frequent visitor
was the Danish writer
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Hans Christian Anderson,
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famous for his children's stories
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such as "The little Mermaid".
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This ship is approaching Bremerhaven
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on the estuary of the river Weser
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where it meets the North Sea.
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(bright orchestral music)
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This modern container port is
the fourth largest in Europe
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and was opened in 1968.
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It handles over five million
containers each year.
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In 2006 the estuary was
widened to 600 meters
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so that large container ships could turn.
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Since the construction of
container port four in 2008
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the site increased to around
three million square meters,
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roughly equivalent to the
area of 360 football pitches.
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The cay is nearly 5,000 meters long
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and can load and unload
14 ships at any one time.
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Bremerhaven also has
what are called wet docs,
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which are accessible by two large locks
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where well over two million cars
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are imported or exported every year,
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more than any other port in Europe.
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The town of Bremerhaven was began in 1827,
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at the same time as the port,
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because the city of Bremen,
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which is 60 kilometers
further up the river,
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had silted up by the
end of the 18th century
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and could no longer handle large ships.
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Lying between five and
30 kilometers offshore
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from the Netherlands,
Germany, and Denmark,
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are the Frisian islands,
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which stretch in a line
for roughly 500 kilometers.
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Over thousands of years,
subsequent storms and flooding
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have produced this long chain of islands
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separated from the mainland
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by the narrow belt of shallow waters
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and tidal mudflats
known as the Wadden Sea,
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which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
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Although they form a
single physical feature,
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they are mostly subdivided into the West,
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East and North Frisian islands.
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We are heading for the
East Frisian islands
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off the German coast.
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For ships approaching Bremerhaven
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these are treacherous waters,
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and the Hohe Weg lighthouse
provides an essential guide
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for ships to avoid foundering
on the sandbars and mud flats.
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It has been in operation since 1856
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and took two years to build,
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as work was only possible at low tide.
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It has since undergone several upgrades.
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The lighthouse also provide some space
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which can be used as an emergency shelter
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by hikers caught in a rising tide
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while crossing the sands.
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Ahead of us is Spiekeroog,
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one of the East Frisian Islands
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well known for its glorious beaches.
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By the 17th century 13
families were on the island,
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making a living from farming and fishing.
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In later years, whaling and shipping
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became increasingly
important to its economy.
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During the Napoleonic occupation
of the late 18th century
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all shipping came to a halt
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due to the British blockade
of the French coast,
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which led to great poverty.
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But the Island was
rescued at the beginning
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of the 19th century when
seaside resorts became popular.
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And in 1800 Spiekeroog began
welcoming holiday makers
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to its wide beaches.
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And to improve the comfort
of tourists and guests
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a 1.7 kilometer horse-drawn railway
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was built in 1885 between the
village and the Western beach.
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In 1981 it was reintroduced
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to this peaceful car-free Island,
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(gentle music)
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The Island next to
Spiekeroog is the smallest
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inhabited one in the East
Frisian chain, Wangerooge.
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The island is noted for
its relaxed atmosphere,
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beaches, and stress free way of life.
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It's also car free.
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Wangerooge's slogan is "God created time,
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"but he never mentioned haste."
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Until sea defenses were
built a century ago
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the whole island was shifting eastward
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and old buildings were lost to the sea,
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including the original Western tower,
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which was built in 1597
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and then rebuilt in 1933.
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It stands 56 meters and is now
a very original youth hostel.
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Many of the Frisian islands are
uninhabited, such as Mellum.
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In fact, this island of
dunes and tidal marshes
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only appeared at the
end of the 19th century
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due to the outflow of two rivers.
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It also changes its shape
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in accordance with sea currents and winds.
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The island is an important bird sanctuary
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and surrounded by a defensive seawall
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is its only house, which is
used in the summer months
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for wildlife observation
and scientific research.
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For the islands which
have a small landing strip
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visitors can fly from a coastal airport
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or even from the cities
of Bremen and Hamburg.
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This airplane, heading back to
the mainland from Wangerooge
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will lead us to our next location.
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This is Wilhelmshaven,
Germany's only deep water port
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and its largest naval base.
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Since 2011 it has also become
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the country's largest military base.
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It was in 1869 that the German emperor
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expanded the town and port into a base
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for the expansion of his naval fleet.
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A shipbuilding yard was also developed
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and in 1934 the pocket
battleship Admiral Graf Spee
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was launched here.
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During the Second World War,
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Allied bombing inflicted
heavy damage on the dock yard
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as well as the town.
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And in 1945 the Canadian
army captured Wilhelmshaven
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along with 200 ships.
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In the 1950s the deep water channel
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led to the construction
of an oil tanker jetty,
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and today Wilhelmshaven is
Germany's most significant port
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for importing crude oil,
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with pipelines running to Hamburg
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and the Rhine-Ruhr industrial region.
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40 kilometers south is
the city of Oldenburg,
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which had a settlement here as
early as the eighth century.
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However, the city was
not always in Germany,
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because up until 1773
it was ruled by Denmark,
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whose king was also
the Count of Oldenburg.
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During the 17th century it
had a growing population
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and had become a prosperous place,
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reflected in its many fine buildings.
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But in 1667 a disastrous
plague epidemic struck the city
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and shortly afterwards a fire
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razed much of it to the ground.
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As the Danish kings were not
that interested in Oldenburg
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it lost its former importance
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until it was ceded to Lower Saxony,
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and a major rebuilding program
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began to restore the
city to its former glory.
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Luckily for the town it
avoided any major damage
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in the Second World War,
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and today is a growing
tourist destination.
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To the west is Bremen on the river Weser.
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Even though the main
port for the city moved
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to Bremerhaven in the early 19th century,
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it still remains open for
smaller ships and barges
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00:15:00,620 --> 00:15:05,620
and is an important part of
Bremen's industrial economy.
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As a result, over a 60% of the city
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was destroyed by Allied bombing
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due to the significance
of its docks and industry.
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00:15:15,410 --> 00:15:19,110
Until the formation of
the German empire in 1871
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the country consisted
of 16 separate states,
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with the free Hanseatic state
of Bremen being the smallest.
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Like many German cities it
can trace its roots back
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to well over 10,000 BC.
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Though what we see today is the product
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of building from the 17th century onwards,
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and a great deal of
restoration and rebuilding
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after the war.
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The medieval cathedral with its two towers
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was badly damaged and took
many decades to restore.
256
00:15:50,430 --> 00:15:53,420
One of the few noted
buildings to survive the war
257
00:15:53,420 --> 00:15:56,370
is the early 15th century town hall,
258
00:15:56,370 --> 00:15:59,383
and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
259
00:16:01,080 --> 00:16:03,100
The city's impressive railway station
260
00:16:03,100 --> 00:16:08,100
is also a protected
building and built in 1890.
261
00:16:08,200 --> 00:16:11,940
Around the same time the
old horse tramway gave way
262
00:16:11,940 --> 00:16:15,203
to the first trials of
the city's electric trams.
263
00:16:16,720 --> 00:16:18,950
Today there are seven lines
264
00:16:18,950 --> 00:16:21,343
covering well over 100 kilometers.
265
00:16:26,490 --> 00:16:29,630
This is the river Elba
and in the distance,
266
00:16:29,630 --> 00:16:33,550
the second largest city
in Germany, Hamburg.
267
00:16:33,550 --> 00:16:35,900
It was the last of the German city-states
268
00:16:35,900 --> 00:16:38,330
to join a united Germany.
269
00:16:38,330 --> 00:16:40,480
In the last half of the 19th century
270
00:16:40,480 --> 00:16:43,420
Hamburg experienced its fastest growth
271
00:16:43,420 --> 00:16:47,481
when its population more
than quadrupled to 800,000.
272
00:16:47,481 --> 00:16:50,050
(bright music)
273
00:16:50,050 --> 00:16:53,170
Wealth poured into the
city as Hamburg gained
274
00:16:53,170 --> 00:16:55,340
an international reputation.
275
00:16:55,340 --> 00:16:58,420
And this is reflected in the
many impressive buildings
276
00:16:58,420 --> 00:16:59,573
in the city center.
277
00:17:00,460 --> 00:17:03,540
Today that international
character is still intact
278
00:17:03,540 --> 00:17:06,600
as the city is an open,
free cosmopolitan place
279
00:17:06,600 --> 00:17:07,873
to live and visit.
280
00:17:08,790 --> 00:17:12,830
Its culture ranges from
opera, ballet, and concerts,
281
00:17:12,830 --> 00:17:15,630
to clubs, bars, and the
well known Reeperbahn
282
00:17:15,630 --> 00:17:18,003
for more exotic entertainment.
283
00:17:18,850 --> 00:17:23,810
It's estimated that every
year around 250,000 people
284
00:17:23,810 --> 00:17:28,133
visit Hamburg from 185
countries around the world.
285
00:17:29,070 --> 00:17:31,810
The port is a truly impressive place,
286
00:17:31,810 --> 00:17:35,210
especially as it is 60 kilometers upstream
287
00:17:35,210 --> 00:17:37,370
from the mouth of the river Elba.
288
00:17:37,370 --> 00:17:40,950
It covers a vast 74 square kilometers
289
00:17:40,950 --> 00:17:44,343
and handles around 10
million containers a year.
290
00:17:48,480 --> 00:17:50,770
There are 17 shipping terminals,
291
00:17:50,770 --> 00:17:53,250
including three for cruise liners,
292
00:17:53,250 --> 00:17:56,563
as Hamburg is one of Europe's
largest ports of call.
293
00:17:57,670 --> 00:17:59,510
It's therefore not surprising
294
00:17:59,510 --> 00:18:01,860
that the city is often referred to
295
00:18:01,860 --> 00:18:03,693
as the gateway to the world.
296
00:18:05,060 --> 00:18:07,090
And just before we leave the city,
297
00:18:07,090 --> 00:18:09,630
the question that many people want to know
298
00:18:09,630 --> 00:18:12,710
is does the hamburger come from Hamburg?
299
00:18:12,710 --> 00:18:16,060
The answer seems to be a sort of yes.
300
00:18:16,060 --> 00:18:18,200
As thousands of German immigrants
301
00:18:18,200 --> 00:18:20,640
left from these docks in the 19th century
302
00:18:20,640 --> 00:18:23,610
for a new life in the United States
303
00:18:23,610 --> 00:18:26,590
they, perhaps, would have
taken with them the recipe
304
00:18:26,590 --> 00:18:30,320
for Hamburg's Frikadellen,
a pan-fried beef patty.
305
00:18:30,320 --> 00:18:33,463
It was in America that the bun was added.
306
00:18:39,270 --> 00:18:41,090
This is Luneburg Heath,
307
00:18:41,090 --> 00:18:44,180
a large area of woodland and sandy soil,
308
00:18:44,180 --> 00:18:47,460
covering around 440 square kilometers,
309
00:18:47,460 --> 00:18:51,283
which was made into a
nature reserve back in 1921.
310
00:18:52,610 --> 00:18:54,740
But what makes the heath stand out
311
00:18:54,740 --> 00:18:57,310
is the part it played in world events.
312
00:18:57,310 --> 00:19:01,633
Because it was here on
the 4th of May, 1945,
313
00:19:01,633 --> 00:19:04,880
that the unconditional
surrender of German forces
314
00:19:04,880 --> 00:19:07,590
in the Netherlands,
Northwest Germany, Denmark,
315
00:19:07,590 --> 00:19:11,780
and all naval ships in this
area was given to the Allies
316
00:19:11,780 --> 00:19:14,670
under Field Marshal Bernard Montgomery.
317
00:19:14,670 --> 00:19:17,673
This ended the Second World War in Europe.
318
00:19:19,310 --> 00:19:21,950
And it's somewhere on Luneburg Heath
319
00:19:21,950 --> 00:19:24,020
where the body of Heinrich Himmler,
320
00:19:24,020 --> 00:19:28,100
a leading figure in Nazi
Germany and head of the SS,
321
00:19:28,100 --> 00:19:31,070
was secretly buried in an unmarked grave
322
00:19:31,070 --> 00:19:33,053
following his suicide.
323
00:19:37,610 --> 00:19:40,010
On the site of an old wildlife zoo
324
00:19:40,010 --> 00:19:43,510
a small amusement park was opened in 1978
325
00:19:43,510 --> 00:19:45,490
which offered six rides
326
00:19:45,490 --> 00:19:48,570
and attracted around 200,000 visitors.
327
00:19:48,570 --> 00:19:52,500
Today the numbers are over 1 1/2 million
328
00:19:52,500 --> 00:19:55,040
and it's now one of the
biggest amusement parks
329
00:19:55,040 --> 00:19:55,990
in Northern Europe.
330
00:19:57,100 --> 00:19:58,780
There are over 40 rides,
331
00:19:58,780 --> 00:20:01,223
including roller coasters and water rides,
332
00:20:01,223 --> 00:20:05,674
as well as the Scream,
a 103 meter drop tower.
333
00:20:05,674 --> 00:20:08,257
(bright music)
334
00:20:10,510 --> 00:20:13,410
Other dramatic names include the Colossus
335
00:20:13,410 --> 00:20:14,843
and Flight of the Demons.
336
00:20:19,600 --> 00:20:23,970
The most recognizable landmark
in the park is a 35 meter
337
00:20:23,970 --> 00:20:28,760
1/3 scale replica of the
Statue of Liberty in New York.
338
00:20:28,760 --> 00:20:32,310
It was inaugurated on
the 4th of July, 1986,
339
00:20:32,310 --> 00:20:35,270
on the 100th anniversary of the unveiling
340
00:20:35,270 --> 00:20:36,563
of the original one.
341
00:20:38,820 --> 00:20:41,780
To the south is a stark reminder
342
00:20:41,780 --> 00:20:44,430
of man's inhumanity to man,
343
00:20:44,430 --> 00:20:47,733
the Nazi concentration
camp of Bergen-Belsen.
344
00:20:48,640 --> 00:20:53,640
From 1941 to 1945 almost
20,000 Soviet prisoners of war
345
00:20:54,830 --> 00:20:59,160
and a further 50,000 inmates died here.
346
00:20:59,160 --> 00:21:03,390
Overcrowding, lack of food,
and poor sanitary conditions
347
00:21:03,390 --> 00:21:06,910
caused outbreaks of typhus, tuberculosis,
348
00:21:06,910 --> 00:21:09,670
typhoid fever, and dysentery,
349
00:21:09,670 --> 00:21:13,960
leading to the deaths of
more than 35,000 people
350
00:21:13,960 --> 00:21:17,320
in the first few months of 1945,
351
00:21:17,320 --> 00:21:21,013
shortly before and after
the camps liberation.
352
00:21:21,920 --> 00:21:26,320
It was also here in this
dreadful and deeply moving place
353
00:21:26,320 --> 00:21:30,210
that the tragic story of the
young Dutch girl Anne Frank
354
00:21:30,210 --> 00:21:33,723
ended with her death
and that of her sister.
355
00:21:38,840 --> 00:21:42,320
Celle is a very popular
tourist destination
356
00:21:42,320 --> 00:21:46,260
with its streets of timber
framed houses and red roofs.
357
00:21:46,260 --> 00:21:48,720
In the 14th century the wonderfully named
358
00:21:48,720 --> 00:21:52,700
Duke Otto the Strict started
to build the present town,
359
00:21:52,700 --> 00:21:54,063
including the church.
360
00:21:54,980 --> 00:21:57,380
It's laid out in a formal grid pattern
361
00:21:57,380 --> 00:22:00,223
as it was not being built
over an existing layout.
362
00:22:02,190 --> 00:22:05,550
By the 15th century, Celle
had grown in importance
363
00:22:05,550 --> 00:22:08,630
as a trading center and
the castle was enlarged
364
00:22:08,630 --> 00:22:11,413
and fortified by the Duke
of Brunswick-Luneburg.
365
00:22:14,080 --> 00:22:16,000
The castle we see today is the result
366
00:22:16,000 --> 00:22:18,670
of transforming the old Renaissance one
367
00:22:18,670 --> 00:22:22,323
into a more comfortable house
during the 17th century.
368
00:22:23,690 --> 00:22:26,790
In 1704 it passed into the hands
369
00:22:26,790 --> 00:22:28,840
of the electors of Hanover,
370
00:22:28,840 --> 00:22:32,370
whose descendants would become
kings of the United Kingdom,
371
00:22:32,370 --> 00:22:33,930
beginning with King George I.
372
00:22:37,450 --> 00:22:41,260
The castle also has a
sad and tragic story,
373
00:22:41,260 --> 00:22:45,210
as King George's young
granddaughter Caroline Matilda,
374
00:22:45,210 --> 00:22:47,070
who had married the mentally unstable
375
00:22:47,070 --> 00:22:49,270
King Christian VII of Denmark,
376
00:22:49,270 --> 00:22:54,270
was banished to Celle in 1772
as a result of her affair
377
00:22:54,790 --> 00:22:56,823
with her husband's closest advisor.
378
00:22:57,900 --> 00:23:01,390
The unhappy queen only
lived here for three years
379
00:23:01,390 --> 00:23:05,033
before she died of scarlet
fever aged just 23.
380
00:23:12,140 --> 00:23:15,280
This motorway leads us
to our final location
381
00:23:15,280 --> 00:23:17,093
on this journey, Hanover.
382
00:23:19,340 --> 00:23:23,033
The city is the capital of the
German state of Lower Saxony.
383
00:23:23,950 --> 00:23:27,610
It was also the main residence
of the electors of Hannover
384
00:23:27,610 --> 00:23:31,300
and on the outskirts of the
city is their summer palace.
385
00:23:31,300 --> 00:23:32,830
And thanks to Sophia,
386
00:23:32,830 --> 00:23:35,620
wife of the elector in
the late 17th century,
387
00:23:35,620 --> 00:23:37,530
one of the most important formal
388
00:23:37,530 --> 00:23:41,054
Baroque gardens in Europe, Herrenhausen.
389
00:23:41,054 --> 00:23:44,554
(bright orchestral music)
390
00:23:45,810 --> 00:23:48,760
The creation of the great
garden took three decades
391
00:23:48,760 --> 00:23:50,500
from the late 17th century,
392
00:23:50,500 --> 00:23:55,230
and is the life's work of the
electress Sophia of Hanover.
393
00:23:55,230 --> 00:23:57,250
Nothing was undertaken here
394
00:23:57,250 --> 00:23:59,563
that was not at her express command.
395
00:24:00,540 --> 00:24:02,060
In Holland, where she grew up,
396
00:24:02,060 --> 00:24:03,710
she had developed an enthusiasm
397
00:24:03,710 --> 00:24:06,263
for the Dutch style of ornamental gardens,
398
00:24:07,260 --> 00:24:09,730
and on her travels in
Italy she was inspired
399
00:24:09,730 --> 00:24:13,363
by the extravagant Renaissance
and Baroque designs.
400
00:24:17,260 --> 00:24:21,740
In 1683 she commissioned an
up and coming master gardener
401
00:24:21,740 --> 00:24:24,763
to construct Herrenhausen to her wishes.
402
00:24:25,650 --> 00:24:28,810
Rare plants were purchased
in Holland and Hamburg.
403
00:24:28,810 --> 00:24:31,830
Wagon loads of orange
trees were delivered.
404
00:24:31,830 --> 00:24:34,610
Renowned sculptors carved statues,
405
00:24:34,610 --> 00:24:38,810
and the River Graft was diverted
to fill the formal canals,
406
00:24:38,810 --> 00:24:41,363
which frame the garden in the Dutch style.
407
00:24:42,390 --> 00:24:44,420
The great garden became the setting
408
00:24:44,420 --> 00:24:47,820
for the extravagant
festivities of court society,
409
00:24:47,820 --> 00:24:49,790
with Venetian masked balls
410
00:24:49,790 --> 00:24:52,890
including gondola rides on the canal.
411
00:24:52,890 --> 00:24:54,810
And it was here in the garden
412
00:24:54,810 --> 00:24:58,623
that Czar Peter the Great of
Russia danced with Sophia.
413
00:25:01,710 --> 00:25:05,010
Herrenhausen survives
virtually intact today
414
00:25:05,010 --> 00:25:06,430
because in the 18th century
415
00:25:06,430 --> 00:25:10,310
it was not destroyed by the
fashion for landscaping,
416
00:25:10,310 --> 00:25:13,780
an English style that swept across Europe.
417
00:25:13,780 --> 00:25:17,860
In the 1930s the garden was
bought by the city of Hanover
418
00:25:17,860 --> 00:25:21,220
and restored after
several years of neglect.
419
00:25:21,220 --> 00:25:23,150
However, during the Second World War,
420
00:25:23,150 --> 00:25:26,020
the palace was destroyed
by incendiary bombs
421
00:25:26,020 --> 00:25:28,640
and the garden badly damaged.
422
00:25:28,640 --> 00:25:32,000
Once again, however,
it rose from the ashes
423
00:25:32,000 --> 00:25:35,480
to delight the thousands of
visitors who come each year.
424
00:25:36,580 --> 00:25:39,063
A perfect place to end this journey.
425
00:25:45,407 --> 00:25:49,324
(flourishing orchestral music)
426
00:26:08,437 --> 00:26:11,020
(logo chiming)
34312
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