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(wind whooshing)
(uplifting dramatic music)
- Our journey begins
at the city of Liverpool, once a gateway to the New World
for both trade and passengers.
Branching off the River Mersey is the Manchester Ship Canal
which, when finished in 1893, was the largest of its kind
in the world.
On the eastern side of Manchester
is the Peak District National Park,
attracting millions of visitors every year.
In the park is Derwent Water Reservoir
which played an important part in the Dam Busters Raid
of 1943 during World War Two.
To the south is Arbor Low,
one of the finest henge monuments in England,
built over two and a half thousand years ago.
Our final location Keddleston Hall
is a neoclassical masterpiece
whose architect was inspired by the buildings
of Ancient Rome.
The River Mersey empties into the Irish Sea
at the city of Liverpool.
As the rain clears away north,
we make our way up the river
which was once a major seaport
for anyone traveling to America.
You might say it was the international airport of its age
and the magnificent buildings that line the River Mersey
reinforce the importance of Liverpool
in the 19th century.
These two mythical Liver birds have symbolized the city
since they were put on top of the Royal Liver Building,
constructed around 1910.
The clock faces enabled ships to see the accurate time
as they came and went on the tide.
The city has a number of great civic buildings
which represent the importance of Liverpool
at the end of the 19th century.
These include a large railway station,
art galleries, and museums.
And perhaps the most outstanding, St George's Hall.
This is one of the finest neoclassical buildings in Europe
and one of the greatest assembly halls in Britain.
Liverpool boasts two cathedrals,
the 1960s Catholic one,
which, due to its shape was nicknamed Paddy's Wigwam.
Close by is the Protestant Cathedral
which took 74 years to build
and was only completed in 1978.
Its length of 189 meters, including the Lady Chapel
at the end makes it the longest cathedral in the world.
In 1839, a horse race was held here at Aintree
in the suburbs of Liverpool,
now known as the Grand National,
it had become the most valuable jump race in Europe
with a prize fund of well over $1,000,000.
It has become a cultural event
and is even popular with people
who do not normally follow horse racing.
One of the iconic sights of the city
are the ferries crossing the River Mersey.
They have been in existence for over 800 years.
The current ferries came into service
during the 1960s and were made famous
by the song "Ferry Cross The Mersey"
by Jerry & the Pacemakers in 1964.
Opposite Liverpool on the Wirral Peninsula
is the 1890s purpose-built village of Port Sunlight.
A rare example of an enlightened Victorian employer
looking after his workers.
The employers were the Lever brothers
and they built this model village
on one side of their Sunlight soap factory.
The style of some of the houses was adapted
from the black-beamed cottages of the Tudor age.
There were gardens, allotments, public buildings,
as well as a hospital, schools, and a church.
There was even an art gallery.
For the families who lived here,
it must've seemed like heaven
in comparison to the rows of small back-to-back housing
only a few miles away across the river in Liverpool.
A few kilometers down the Mersey on the north bank
and hidden by trees is one
of the finest Tudor houses in England, Speke Hall.
(stately music)
Building began around 1530 with the great hall
and over the next 70 years, other bays and wings were added
until the north side was completed in 1598.
Since then, there have only been minor changes
to the house, making this a rare example
of a virtually-untouched 16th century manor.
The main oak beams are stiffened with smaller timbers
and then filled or corked
with a sticky material, usually made
of some combination of wet soil,
clay, sand, animal dung, and straw.
Today, this historic and important house stands alone
in an industrial area
and almost at the end of the runway of Liverpool Airport.
In fact, the original airport
was built on part of the grounds of Speke Hall in the 1930s.
In 2001, it was renamed Liverpool John Lennon Airport
in honor of one of the city's most famous residents.
(airplane whooshing)
On the opposite bank of the Mersey is the start
of the Manchester Ship Canal at Eastham Lock
which is the largest on this 58-kilometer waterway.
(peaceful music)
This was the last great canal project in Britain
and enabled large ships to reach Manchester
and the docks at Salford Quays from the River Mersey.
It was finally completed in 1893
and at the time was the largest navigation canal
in the world.
There was an earlier 18th century canal
but it was only usable by small ships,
often dried out, and had fallen into disrepair
by the late 19th century, becoming unnavigable in parts.
The new canal would allow larger ships
and their cargo to boost Manchester's trade
and also to avoid paying the heavy dues levied
by the Port of Liverpool.
Even today, its quite a sight
to see a large ship quietly slipping past streets
of houses or through the swing bridges.
The building facts are impressive.
12,000 navvies were employed for six years
to dig out the 40,000,000 cubic meters of earth.
They were assisted by 124 steam cranes,
6000 trucks and wagons as well as 300 kilometers
of temporary track for the 180 locomotives.
The final cost was staggering.
In today's money, the bill was
in excess of two billion dollars.
All this effort made Manchester Britain's third largest port
despite being 65 kilometers inland.
Even today, the canal carries
around 7,000,000 tons of cargo every year.
(birds chirping)
A few kilometers south of the canal
is the red brick Georgian house of Dunham Massey.
In the 1770s,
the second Earl of Warrington completely remodeled
the old house as well as the ancient deer park
but retained the long intersecting avenues.
The money to make all these improvements to the estate
came from his advantageous marriage to the daughter
of a wealthy London merchant.
Though the new countess brought money to the union,
the marriage itself was a disaster.
The couple fell out so badly
that they would not speak to each other
and lived in the house as strangers.
So bad did the marriage become
that the earl wrote a pamphlet advocating divorce
on the grounds of incompatibility of temper.
The house was refashion and modernized
in the early 1900s and today is under the care
of the National Trust.
The Industrial Revolution of the late 18th century
saw the birth of new manufacturing processes
that gave rise to the factory system.
This is Quarry Bank Mill,
one of the best preserved early cotton mills
and which is still in working condition.
Textiles were the dominant industry of this revolution
and the first to use modern protection methods.
When the mill was built, it used water power
to turn a wheel which drove the machinery
in the weaving sheds.
Other wheels were added over the next few decades.
It was an efficient process
but only if the river flowed.
No water meant now power.
So in 1810 the first steam engine was introduced
and this was upgraded over the next century.
The mill operated until 1959
when it denoted to the National Trust
as a working museum.
To house his workforce in the late 18th century,
the mill's owner created Styal Village.
At the time this was an enlightened attitude as thousands
of other workers endured terrible housing conditions
in cramped industrial cities like Manchester.
Here in the countryside, plain terraced cottages were built.
Each one had a parlor, kitchen, and two bedrooms,
an outside privy and a small garden.
The rent was deducted from the worker's wages.
The mill owner attempted to bring the structured order
of a country village to his new industrial community.
He even built Oak School to educate his workers' children.
Most great houses in Britain have been altered
over the centuries according to the whims of each owner
and how rich they were at any particular time.
Many have fallen into ruin through debt
due to the enormous running costs.
Some have simply been demolished.
Lyme Park on the edge of the Peak District still survives
due to being gifted to the National Trust
by its last owner, William Lee,
whose ancestors had lived on the land for over 600 years.
The first house wall pulled down in the 16th century
and replaced by a Tudor building.
This was then transformed in the 1720s
into a neoclassical stately home in the Italian style
by the Venetian architect Giacomo Leoni,
one of the most fashionable architects of the day.
Over the next few years, he created an elegant house
whose style was copied
at many other country houses in England.
We are now entering the Peak District
which is an upland area lying south
of the Pennine chain of hills,
often referred to as the backbone of England.
(peaceful music)
In 1951, the Peak District
became the first national park in Britain
and with its proximity to the cities of Manchester,
Stoke-on-Trent, Derby and Sheffield.
It attracts millions of visitors every year.
Ahead of us the moorland plateau of Kinder Scout
and running out of it is Kinder Downfall.
This is the tallest waterfall in the Peak District
with a 30 meter drop.
It lies on the River Kinder where it flows west
over one of the gritstone cliffs
on the plateau edge.
In the strong prevailing westerly winds,
the water is blown back on itself
and the resulting cloud of spray
can be seen from several miles away.
Kinder Scout is also known as Dark Peak
due to a layer of millstone grit
which prevents rainwater from draining away
through the soil and leaving a dark and often dangerous bog
on the highest point in the national park.
Each year, walkers who have set out unprepared
have had to be rescued from this beautiful
but also treacherous landscape.
But for those who complete the climb to the top,
the views are magnificent.
(peaceful music)
This is a Vale of Edale and a favorite place
where visitors have walked for well over a century.
This whole area was once a royal hunting ground
and following the Norman conquest in 1066,
King William rewarded one of his followers,
William Peverell, with a large estate and custody
of the royal land.
Peverell Castle is built on a crag
above the village of Castleton
and is an important and well-documented example
of a tower keep castle
and is one of a very small number in England
to be build of stone rather than wood
immediately after the conquest.
The castle became unoccupied during the early 15th century
and only the keep was in use 200 years later
as a courthouse.
When this was abandoned, the castle gradually became ruined
until restoration work started in the late 19th century.
In the heart of the Peak District National Park
are a series of reservoirs constructed
in the early 20th century to supply water
to cities like Sheffield.
But one of these did much more than supply water.
It played a part in one of the most daring raids
during the Second World War.
Operation Chastise, better known
as the Dam Busters Raid of 1943.
This involved flying in the dark at very low level
and releasing a bouncing bomb to evade local defenses.
To accomplish this,
a high level of specialist training was required.
The Derwent Reservoir Dam had a long approach
and the two tours on the top looked similar
to one of the targets in Germany, the Eder Dam.
In the months before the raid,
local residents were constantly awoken at night
by the roar of low-flying Lancaster bombers
like this restored one
and the last flying example in Britain.
The crews undertook training missions
to fly at an exact height of just under 30 meters.
A formidable task especially when the altimeter
was useless at such a low height.
The solution was spotlight fitted under the bombers.
One in the nose and one behind the bomb bay.
They were angled so that the two beams would meet
when the aircraft was at the exact height.
It would be the job of the navigator
to look through the window and talk the pilot down
until the lamps met at the required altitude.
The practice paid off and the raid went ahead.
It was a success
and took German industry some time to recover.
But Dam Busters Raid was a real victory
and a morale booster for a country at war.
(airplane rumbling)
20 kilometers to the south is one of England's grandest
and most popular stately homes, Chatsworth House.
An earlier Tudor house was mostly swept aside
in the late 17th century by the fourth Earl of Devonshire
when he remodeled the house
into a very English classical Baroque style.
It was designed to impress as the most modern house
of its time.
Before it was finished, the earl had been created
the first Duke of Devonshire.
The enormous formal garden,
which was once of the grandest in the country,
has mostly disappeared
and only a few architectural sections remain
including the formal canal and the cascade.
This was built in 1696 and in 1703, a grand Baroque temple
or cascade house was added at the top.
It has 24 cut steps.
Every one slightly different and with a variety of textures
so that each gives a different sound
when water runs over and down them.
In the 19th century, the sixth duke added
a new north wind which includes a sculpture gallery
and servants' quarters.
The fame of Chatsworth spread and in 1843,
Tsar Nicholas the First of Russia informed the duke
that he was likely to visit Chatsworth the following year.
In anticipation of this imperial visit,
the sixth duke decided
to construct the world's highest fountain.
He named it the Emperor Fountain.
A lake was dug on the moors above the house
to supply the immense water pressure
which enabled the jet to reach up to 90 meters.
Sadly, the tsar died and never saw the fountain
but today, around 700,000 people a year
can enjoy it as Chatsworth is one
of the most popular stately homes in the country.
For those who want to travel even further back in time
then five to kilometers to the south is Haddon Hall.
This castellated medieval manor house constructed
around two courtyards has remained unchanged
since the reign of Henry the Eighth
in the early 16th century.
(stately music)
Building Haddon actually began 400 years earlier
in 1170 when Sir Richard Vernon acquired the manor.
He built most of the hall except
for the tower and part of the chapel
which was retained from an even earlier house.
New building work by successive generations
of the Vernon family was carried out at various stages
between the 13th and 16 centuries.
By the Tudor period, building stopped
and Haddon Hall became frozen in time.
Its an important, rare, and wonderful house
and was sensitively restored during the last century.
Its therefore no surprise that Haddon is often used
as a film location for many period films.
This is Arbor Low, one of the finest henge monuments
in England and sits on a high point
in the southern Peak District.
As with so many other ancient monuments,
no one knows quite why it was constructed
or what it was used for.
What we do know is that it was built
around two and a half thousand years ago
inside the earth bank and ditch.
There are 46 large and 13 smaller stones,
arranged in a circle with a group in the center.
What is surprising is that all the stones are lying flat
and no one now knows for certain
whether this was how they were placed originally
or whether they were once upright
and have since been toppled.
One theory is that early Christians laid them flat
in order to de-sanctify the site
but no archeological evidence exists to support this.
At the southern end of the Peak District National Park
is one of its most visited place, Dovedale.
The valley, which was carved out by the River Dove
over thousands of years, runs for about five kilometers.
It's notable for its numerous limestone formations.
Including Dovedale Castle, Ilam Rock
and a limestone promontory called Lover's Leap.
Throughout the ages, Dovedale has inspired painters
as well as writers, extolling its beauty,
including Samuel Johnson, Lord Tennyson,
and John Ruskin.
Lord Byron wrote to a fellow poet,
"I can assure there are things in Derbyshire as noble
"as Greece or Switzerland."
Jane Austin was not immune to Dovedale's beauty
when in her novel of 1813, "Pride and Prejudice",
Elizabeth Bennet and Mr. Darcy talk about her travels
in Derbyshire including Dovedale.
In the 18th century it was only the gentry
who had the time and means to enjoy this landscape.
By the mid 19th century with the arrival of the railway,
tourism became possibly for many more people.
Today over a million people a year come
to walk through this picturesque valley.
This is Kedleston Hall, just north of Derby.
In 1760 Sir Nathaniel Curzon decided
to build a new house on land his family had owned
since the 13th century.
He called in top architects to start work.
At the same time, a relatively unknown architect Robert Adam
was commissioned to design some garden buildings
and a bridge to enhance the landscape park
and Curzon was so impressed with his designs
that Adam was quickly put in charge
of building the new mansion
and this is what we see today.
The style of the house has become known as neoclassical
as it followed the ideas from the Roman Classical past.
Adam had traveled to Italy and made drawings
of all the best Classical ruins of Ancient Rome.
The decoration of the south front
is based on the triumphal arch
of the Roman Emperor Constantine
which, today, stands by the Colosseum in Rome.
You can just make it out in the middle section.
Robert Adam's work influenced the direction
of architecture and design
right across the Western world.
Indeed, the Adams style is still very much around today.
An inspiring place to end this journey.
(swelling dramatic music)
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