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(upbeat music)
(upbeat music)
(soft music)
- Our journey will take us along part
of the Brazilian coastline,
beginning at the Tropical Island of Honey,
with its miles of beaches and lonely lighthouse.
We then cross some of the last remaining
Coastal Atlantic Rainforest,
one of the most endangered landscapes in the world.
Along the coast is Iguape, a town that predates
the arrival of the Portuguese in the 16th century.
Over the centuries, the city of Santos has grown
into the biggest seaport in Latin America,
as well as a major resort.
Ubatuba is a playground for the rich,
with luxury villas on its headlands, as well as
superb beaches and waves for keen surfers.
Our journey ends at the historic town of Paraty,
once rich from gold mining, and now
a much loved, preserved, old colonial town.
At the mouth of Paranaguá Bay,
where it meets the Atlantic Ocean,
is Ilha do Mel, meaning Island of Honey.
Its miles of beaches and picturesque walks,
as well as its isolation,
makes the island a holiday paradise.
Part of the appeal, no doubt,
is that access is controlled by a passenger boat
with a set limit of five thousand people
on the island at any one time.
The Northern half is a wild ecological preserve,
the perfect place to go exploring.
Meanwhile, its Southern end is dotted with tiny villages,
with only the gently lapping waves for company.
At the very Northern tip of the island
is a lonely lighthouse that has been
aiding the passenger ships along
these Atlantic shores since 1872.
It was actually built by a British company
using materials transported over
10,000 kilometers from Scotland.
After almost a century and a half,
it's still fully operational.
Sadly, for visitors, it means
the tower isn't open to the public.
But that certainly doesn't deter walkers
making their way up the steep headland
to take in spectacular views of the bay.
There's one visitor attraction on this island
that's really quite unexpected.
Butted up against the base of a cliff
is the Fort of Our Lady of Pleasures,
Fort Nossa Senhora dos Prazeres.
The battery was built in the second half
of the 18th century by order
of the governor of Sao Paulo.
Its prerogative walls to protect the entrance
to the Port of Paranaguá, not only from enemy vessels,
but also from pirates eager to seize shipments of gold.
Renovation of this historic site began in the 1980s,
and today it houses a museum in the Garrison Buildings.
We join the mainland at some of the most
pristine and deserted beaches in Brazil,
along this seven kilometer stretch of coastline.
Its a UNESCO World Heritage Site,
and part of Superagüi National Park.
Tourists are welcome to enjoy these beaches
that are only really accessible by foot
across the densely wooded coastal plains.
In the midst of such stunning beauty,
it's easy to forget we're in one of the most
endangered landscapes in the world,
the Atlantic Rainforest.
(soft music playing)
It's one the Earth's most diverse forests,
which once covered more than 130 million hectares.
But 500 years of human development
has seen almost 88% of this beautiful
and unique ecosystem vanish.
(soft music playing)
Also known as Mata Atlântica,
it comprises a unique series of ecosystems,
which have long been isolated from the forest's
larger and more famous neighbor, the Amazon Rainforest.
This complex network of saltwater estuaries
is considered to be one of the most important
breeding grounds for marine species
in the South Atlantic.
(soft music)
We are flying over the Lagamar Cananéia State Park,
which was established as recently as 2008,
and it certainly has its conservation work cut out.
Researchers have so far identified almost 2,000
critically endangered species.
To the East of the park, on an island in a lagoon,
is the old town of Cananéia.
(uplifting music)
Despite its small size, its significance
to the history of Brazil is immense.
The site goes back to the very first expeditions
to the new world by the great explorer, Amerigo Vespucci.
The town was established in 1531,
making it one of the earliest
European settlements in Brazil.
What we see today, however,
was mostly built in the 1800's.
And since then, people have used ferries
to travel between Cananéia,
the mainland, and other islands.
Over the centuries, the town has developed a distinctive
culture, from its regional dance, the lively fandango,
to the highlight of the annual Feast of the Sea,
where local restaurants showcase their
freshest and finest seafood dishes.
Surrounded by Atlantic Rainforest,
Cananéia is a very popular place to visit,
and new houses and hotels welcome
the ever-growing number of tourists
who wish to experience this historic town.
At the delta of the Iguape River,
and protected from the Atlantic Ocean
by the island of Comprida, is the town of Iguape.
One of the oldest cities in Brazil.
In fact, it may date back even to before
the Portuguese officially discovered
the country in the year 1500.
It's also one of a handful of places along
the São Paulo coastline to retain its
colonial architecture from the seventeenth century.
This originated from a gold rush,
bringing an influx of wealth and treasure hunters
to this once sleepy village.
Indeed, the very first Brazilian coins
were minted here in the 17th century.
Many of the houses are painted in primary colors
and cluster around the main square of St. Benedict,
which is overlooked by the towering
18th century basilica.
Built of stone, and mortar-made with whale oil,
this extraordinary Catholic church
was completed in 1856,
after 69 years of construction.
To the North of Iguape is the 85,000 hectare
Juréia-Itatins Ecological Station.
It was back in 1958 that parts
of this rainforest was first protected.
But much of the area was still under threat
by a company who, in the 1980s, wanted to build
two large nuclear power plants.
However, the plans were withdrawn in 1985,
and a campaign was launched to protect
even more of the forest.
Even with state protection, there is an ongoing
problem with the illegal harvesting of Heart of Palm,
which is the inner core of young palm trees.
As it's an expensive delicacy, many local people
are drawn into this illegal activity
which is also hard to police in such a vast area.
One of the most well conserved areas in this Rainforest
is the mountain range, known as the Juréia-Itatins.
Located on the Southern coast of São Paulo,
this state park features a number of remarkable mountains.
One of the high peaks is also
the ranges' most distinctive landmark,
with its steep protrusion.
It's traditionally been seen as the regions' ultimate
challenge for daring climbers who, if successful,
have gone on to achieve local fame.
Though it's the most recognizable summit here,
it's far from the only beautiful rock face
in the Atlantic Forest.
Many resting peaks rise in a variety of picturesque shapes
from discontinuous mountain ranges
which were formed 16,000,000 years ago.
As we make our way out of the dense green of the Rainforest,
we find ourselves descending towards the coast
and a long stretch of resort towns.
The first of which is Paraíba.
In Tupi, the language of the native Brazilians,
Paraíba means River of the Shark.
Despite this ominous name, however,
the city is a modern popular destination
for travelers who come for the unique mix
of urban luxury and rustic mountain vistas,
both set against one of the longest,
most immaculate beaches in all of São Paulo state.
And one of the most striking images along this stretch
is the mammoth Mongaguá Pier.
It's a favored destination for surfers,
as well as fisherman.
This platform is the largest concrete structure
over water in all of the Americas.
As it stretches 400 meters into the sea before forming
a protracted "T" with a 100 meter long arm on each side.
Mongaguá itself is known as the Princess of Beaches,
and features 13 kilometers of open sea
for swimming, surfing, and sunbathing.
The town of Samaná resides in Praia Grande,
one of 15 counties considered spas
by the state of São Paulo.
Another popular resort is the small town of
Vila Caiçara, which, along with its gorgeous beaches,
offers virtually every water activity
a traveler could desire.
On the headland, by Praia Grande,
is Fortaleza Du Itaipu.
Designed in 1896 to protect the Portacentos
to the North from enemy vessels,
this stronghold is most famous for an encounter
with a much more puzzling site.
On November the 4th, 1957, two sentries
stationed at the fort saw a circular orange light
descending in the night sky.
The two guards then felt an intense heat wave
and their clothes caught fire.
Despite a joint investigation by the Brazilian Army
and the United States Air Force,
this U.F.O instant remains unexplained.
Over this hilltop ridge, is Santos,
the largest city on the São Paulo coast.
Built on an island, this thriving metropolis
was once the primary gateway for thousands
of immigrants who came to Brazil
in search of work in the plantations
and for a better life.
In 1546, a Portuguese nobleman, Brás Cubas,
founded Santos for its natural harbor,
and today it's grown into one of the largest ports
in Latin America.
Back in the 19th century, this harbor was known as
the Port of Death because of the widespread outbreaks
of yellow fever, for which the city became infamous.
Today, yellow fever is much less of a threat,
and the Santos port is a picture
of modern infrastructure and efficiency.
Ably processing 2,000,000 container units
into and out of the city each year.
Santos is Brazils leading port for container traffic,
and the international terminal is responsible for 25%
of all shipping containers that enter the country,
and 32% of the nation's foreign trade.
The ship will be unloaded and loaded
in less than 24 hours.
And because the terminal is close to the harbor entrance,
it means vessels can be back at sea in even less time.
Over 2,000,000 containers a year
pass through the Port of Santos.
One of the most popular ways of getting in and out
of the city from the Eastern suburbs is by ferry,
as a bridge is not feasible due to the height it would have
to be to allow big ships underneath.
In a typical day, the ferries will transport
25,000 vehicles across the 400 meter river.
In the city's historic center,
a many fine old buildings, and they don't get
much more significant than the Museum of Coffee.
Brazil has long been the world's largest
producer of coffee, and from 1922 until 1957,
it was here at the coffee exchange in this building
where coffee barons came together to determine
the daily price of the bean crop.
The exchange was converted into a museum in 1998,
and today visitors can view a large collection
of photographs and memorabilia that illustrate
the pivotal role coffee has played in the shaping of Brazil.
Unlike many old cities, Santos' cathedral is relatively new,
and was only begun in 1909.
It is still unfinished, though the church
opened its doors to worshipers in 1924.
Designed in the gothic revival style,
with a huge dome above the transept,
the cathedral entrance is watched over by the figures
of St. Peter and St. Paul.
It's been estimated that the building
will not be completed for another 43 years.
Today, Santos is an important holiday resort.
With hotels and apartments
lining the five kilometer beachfront.
In fact, the seafront has a claim to fame,
as it features in the Guinness Book of Records
as the longest and largest beachfront garden in the world.
Leaving Santos, we follow an inland waterway
to the popular town of Bertioga.
This resort, along with its neighbor,
Riviera de São Lourenço, is hemmed in
by the Restinga de Bertioga State Park,
which is part of the Atlantic Rainforest.
The word Restinga means a spit of land
at a distinct type of coastal tropical
and subtropical broadleaf forest.
The park is roughly 9000 hectares
and was only established in 2010 in order
to prevent the gradual buildup of resorts along the coast,
where some of the best beaches in Brazil can be found.
A hundred kilometers along the coast is the
Archipelago of Ilhabela, just off the mainland.
Officially named Ilha Do São Sebastião, or,
St. Sebastian Island, Ilhabela has a permanent residency
of fewer than 30000 people.
But it's such a popular travel destination
that during holiday months the number
of people on the island more than triples.
A much loved sailing center, it offers several regattas,
and is a divers paradise, with over 50 shipwrecks,
filling the waters around the island.
The name Ilhabela means beautiful island,
and with its volcanic peaks, golden beaches,
and tropical jungle, hosting more than
360 waterfalls, the name is certainly appropriate.
In 1985, it was classified as part of the National Heritage,
and along with a few outlying islands,
they were incorporated into a protected state park,
which is home to 800 types of birds,
180 amphibians, and 131 mammals.
On the East side of the island is the largest
of Ilhabela's 41 beaches, and one of the most
secluded and beautiful, the Praia de Castelhanos.
The best way to come here is by boat,
or a long trek through the jungle.
But once here, the sea offers keen surfers
the islands biggest waves.
Before the Italian explorer, Amerigo Vespucci,
named this place after St. Sebastian,
the indigenous people called it Ciribai,
which means tranquil place.
Ahead of us is the Ilha Anchieta, also known as
Pig's Island and Devil's Island.
This is a dazzling landscape preserving
natural history as well as a sinister secret.
With the entire island protected by state laws
that prohibit hunting, fishing, clearing,
or any activity that could harm the environment,
coves on Ilha Anchieta, like this one,
at Praia do Sul, offers some of the cleanest
waters and most pristine beaches anywhere in the world.
But tucked inside the serene beauty
of this island lies a dark secret.
It was on this spot at Anchieta Prison
that the worst riot in the history
of the Brazilian Penal System occurred.
In 1952, a group of well-organized convicts,
including some of the worst criminals in South America,
killed the warden, and more than a dozen guards
before taking weapons and ammunition
from the armory and sailing away from the island.
Led by a 22 year old murderer, known as the Blond Devil,
388 prisoners reached the mainland
where they terrorized nearby towns.
Brazilian police and military mounted
the largest manhunt in the country's history,
and in the end, almost all of the prisoners
were recaptured or killed, with a casualty total
rising to over a hundred.
Soon after the incident, the prison
and the entire island was abandoned.
Across the bay from Ilha Anchieta
is the resort of Ubatuba, on a peninsula
set against the backdrop of the peaks
of the Sera Delmar.
This is a place of luxury villas,
and it's become one of the finest playgrounds
for some of the wealthiest people in Brazil.
A week-long stay in one of these houses
can run you close to $10000,
but the views they afford may well be priceless.
Straddling the tropical capricorn,
Ubatuba is one of the most favored
resorts in the state of São Paulo,
and welcomes over half a million visitors
to its sandy shores in April and May every year.
With golden beaches along a shimmering coastline,
it's easy to see why so many tourists
flock to this ocean paradise.
And if you've come to Brazil in search of waves,
you couldn't find a better spot.
Ubatuba is recognized as the Surf Capital
of São Paulo state.
As we work our way towards our final destination,
we cross the Southern edge
of the Serra da Bocaina National Park.
The park was established in 1971,
and covers an area of a 104,000 hectares of unbroken
Atlantic Rainforest between the states
of São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro.
Along with preserving a multitude
of endangered plants and animals,
Serra da Bocaina also provides a source of crisp,
clean drinking water for much of the surrounding population.
On the other side of the mountains
is the magnificently preserved
Portuguese colonial town of Paraty.
Located on the green coast and
the bay of Ilha Grande, it dates back to 1667
and is both the southernmost and westernmost town
in the state of Rio de Janeiro.
After the discovery of the world's richest gold mine
in the mountains of Brazil in 1696,
Paraty served as a port for exporting this
precious metal to Rio de Janeiro
and then on to Portugal.
As a result, the town became a commercial success,
and the wealthy built churches and fine houses.
However, its glory days didn't last long.
After the 1720s, as the gold began to dry up,
Paraty started to decline.
In the 19th century, the local economy
revived with the coffee boom, but it was not until
the coastal road from Rio was extended here
in the 1960s that a new era of tourism began.
As a result of the slow decline
over the previous two centuries, much of the town's
colonial architecture remains unchanged,
and today, only foot traffic and bicycles are allowed
on the famed cobblestone streets
in the historic central district.
Motor vehicles are only permitted here on Wednesdays,
and even then, only for deliveries,
while horse-drawn carriages are still
a common sight throughout the town.
Paraty has now become a success again,
and is a fascinating piece of colonial history,
tucked away along the Brazilian coastline.
A perfect place to end this journey.
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