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(wind blustering)
(uplifting music)
(uplifting orchestral music)
- Our journey begins at Stellenbosch,
in the heart of the Cape Wineland District.
From here, we explore several vineyards
before heading south to the coast at Hermanus,
one of the best places to see right whales
during the mating season.
At L'Agulhas, we find the southernmost point
of the African peninsula.
Along the coast at Pinnacle Point,
are caves where early man once lived thousands of years ago.
We then follow the dramatic coastline,
as rolling waves batter the shore, to Mossel Bay
and its impressive lighthouse.
One of the most beautiful beaches can be found at Noetzie,
along with some interesting castle-like houses.
Our journey ends at Robberg Peninsula,
a very popular place to walk, swim,
and perhaps glimpse the seal colony,
also enjoying the peninsula.
Stellenbosch is the second oldest European settlement
in the Cape District after Cape Town.
The name translates as Stel's bush,
after the founder, Simon van der Stel in 1679.
Within 10 years, Huguenot refugees
had settled in the area, and had started to grow grapes.
Today, Stellenbosch is the center
of the South African wine industry,
and its university even has a degree course in viticulture.
The region has a Mediterranean climate,
with hot, dry summers, and cool, wet winters,
ideal for growing vines.
And the Cape Fold mountain range provides soils
favorable to wine making.
(upbeat African music)
Rustenberg Winery has a history going back to the 1680s,
though the estate has changed hands several times.
By the late 18th century around 3000 cases
were being produced.
Which by the early 19th century had been doubled.
Today the winery is run by the Barlow family
who have been producing a variety of wines here
for the last 70 years.
Perhaps the best known winery in the region is Boschendal.
Which also has a history from the late 17th century.
The beautiful Dutch inspired design of the estate owners
house, which is typical of the region, was built in 1812.
In the late 19th century much of the area suffered
a catastrophic vine disease
that almost destroyed the industry.
And it would be decades before the newly imported
American vine stock would take hold.
In 1897, Boschendal along with 20 other farms,
was bought by Cecil Rhodes after he was forced to resign
as Prime Minister of the Cape colony.
He transformed his land into fruit farms.
Introducing modern methods of pruning,
grafting, and irrigation.
They planted 200,000 deciduous fruit trees,
pears, apricots, plums, and peaches.
Along with new refrigerated ships, his fruit could now
be exported worldwide.
As the new vine stock gradually took hold,
the winery slowly began to produce top quality wines again.
Today, the winery is a major tourist attraction.
Where people can taste the wines and tour the estates
manor houses and gardens.
(chamber music)
Sir Herbert Baker, who was the architect of many
of the great government buildings in South Africa,
including the parliament buildings in the capital Pretoria,
also designed a more humble cottage for Cecil Rhodes,
under the Simonsburg Mountain at the end
of this connecting avenue from his Boschendal estate.
It was designed to be a simple country retreat.
It has recently being restored and is now available
for visitors to rent.
Rhodes cottage is a South African National Heritage site.
(chamber music)
Close by is the Bellingham winery, which was bought
by the Podlashuk family as a near derelict estate
during the second world war in 1943.
They then enlisted fourteen Italian prisoners of war
who had experience of both farming and vine growing
to replant the vineyard.
Bellingham produced the Cape regions first Rosé in 1949.
And have been producing fine wines ever since.
We now head north towards the town of Paarl
and the Taal monument, commemorating the Afrikaans language
which had influences from Dutch, Malay, Portuguese, French,
German, as well as indigenous Khoi
and other African languages.
The monument was completed in 1975, fifty years
after Afrikaans replaced Dutch
as a South African official language.
The town of Paarl, was begun shortly after Stellenbosch
in the 17th century.
But its real claim to a place in history,
is that it was here in 1990 that Nelson Mandela
walked to freedom.
From what was then called the Victor Verster prison
ending 27 years of imprisonment.
Paarl is another center of the wine industry
and is surrounded by well-tended vineyards
producing a variety of different wines.
Many of them go back to the late 17th century
with the state houses from those early days.
(classical music)
The third center of Cape wine making is at the end
of this valley, Franschhoek.
The name means French corner in Afrikaans.
As the area was settled by French Huguenots.
Some of the families became successful wine makers,
and the town grew in prosperity.
Today it's famed for having some of the top restaurants
in the country and is now often described
as the food and wine capital of South Africa.
There is a monument to the cultural influences
that the Huguenots brought to the area
during the 17th and 18th centuries.
The monument was completed in 1945.
The three high arches symbolize the Holy Trinity,
the Father, Son, and Holy Spirit.
It confirms their Protestant faith after their persecution
and banishment from Catholic France.
Inscribed on the monument is the Protestant motto
"After darkness, light."
(classical music)
With dramatic clouds building over
the Drakenstein mountains along with high winds,
it's safer to go around them as we head south
towards the coast.
South Africa has always had a love of golf
and can boast a whole host of world class course resorts,
such as here at the Arabella Country Estate.
The resort lies between the Palmiet mountain range
and the Bot River Lagoon.
South Africa has produced world class golfers
from Bobby Locke to Ernie Els and perhaps
the greatest of all, Gary Player.
One of the glories of South Africa is its coastline
which stretches for an enormous
2,500 kilometers.
Onrus, in the town of Onrusrivier translates as restless,
referring to the pounding surf on the rocky coast.
As our journey follows this varied and dramatic shoreline.
(gentle music)
From around the world visitors come to the town
of Hermanus to see the right whales.
Back in the 19th century when whales were spotted,
the boats were put to sea and the killing would begin.
Today when whales are spotted, it's cameras
that shoot the whales.
From the shore it's possible to see right whales
from June through to December, as they arrive
to calve in the shelter of the bay.
These huge barnacled creatures often with calves
could be seen close to the shore quietly drifting
with the tide.
Though out at sea, they can be seen breeching,
an action that is still not truly understood.
By talking, playing, or just scratching an itch,
whatever the answer it's a truly dramatic sight.
This is the majestic beach in the Walker Bay Nature Reserve,
which has a 24 kilometer hiking trail along its shoreline.
(gentle piano music)
It ends at the De Kelders caves.
Formed millions of years ago through the erosive action
of underwater streams and much later opened up
along the coastal cliffs by rising sea levels
and pounding waves forming huge caves.
These would become the home of the late stone age people
known as the Khoikhoi.
Excavations in 1969 revealed 2,000 year old pottery,
stone, and bone artifacts and the remains of shellfish,
fish, and other animals that the
Khoikhoi bushman had discarded.
The Khoikhoi or people-people are an historical division
of the Khoisan ethnic group,
the native people of Southwestern Africa.
The Agulhas National Park is a windswept, ruggedly
beautiful coastal plain at the southernmost tip of Africa.
With it's rich, cultural, and natural heritage,
it was proclaimed a national park in 1999,
due to it's huge biodiversity with many plants
unique to this location.
The area is also known as the Cape of Storms,
because over the centuries many ships were wrecked
on these rocky shores as early explorers braved
one of the most dangerous sea crossings of the age,
and the meeting of two seas.
(gentle music)
These people are standing at the southernmost tip of Africa
and the official meeting point of the Atlantic
and Indian Oceans.
(gentle music)
Nearby is the Agulhas lighthouse, the second oldest
lighthouse in South Africa.
It was built in 1848 to aid the early explorers
on their passage through the rough seas of Cape Agulhas.
71 steps lead up to the lantern.
Stone mined from the adjacent limestone quarry
provided the raw materials for its construction.
The lighthouse is no longer in use but it does house
a unique lighthouse museum, as well as stunning views.
(seagulls squawking) (gentle music)
The coastline is endlessly varied as we go
from a rocky shoreline to pristine beaches
backed by sand dunes.
This is the De Mond Nature Reserve which is at
the mouth of the Heuningnes River.
It is an area for bird watching as well as great hiking
through the various trails across the shifting sand dunes.
(gentle music)
Where the Duiwenhoks River meets the sea
is a cliff side hideaway known as Puntjie.
It is known only to those who stay here.
You won't find it on a map and it's not on travel brochures
or tourist routes.
To have a house here, you need to have had a history
in the area.
Houses often remain in the same family for decades,
consequently there is a long waiting list.
The truss style houses have no walls,
there is no electricity,
and the latrine is in its own thatched building.
(gentle acoustic guitar music)
But what Puntjie does have is nature at its finest,
and absolute peace and quiet from the modern world.
Except that is for the thunderous noise
of the breaking waves as they pound the sandy shore.
(waves crashing)
On this stretch of coast they can reach heights
of well over 15 meters, making it ideal conditions
for skilled surfers.
(waves crashing)
High winds were the reason that in 1601
the Dutch explorer Hollis Van Carden
was forced to seek refuge in a sheltered bay to the east.
He was pleased to discover that local Khoi people
were willing to trade their well-fed livestock
for scrap metal and other fancy Western articles and goods.
He then named the place Vleis Bay, the old Dutch word.
Directly translated into English this means Bay of Meat.
Today, the town is a seaside vacation destination
with most houses used as holiday retreats.
It's also on a very popular walking trail
known as the Oyster Catcher hiking trail
which takes visitors along some of the finest
stretches of the coastline, including Fransmanshoek Point
jutting out into the Southern Ocean.
It's a beautiful and unspoiled part of the coast.
Fransmanshoek translates as Frenchman's corner
and named after the French ship La Fortune
which was stranded on the rocks here in 1763.
The peninsula is a protected nature conservancy
and well known for its unusual sharp edged
orange rock formations.
(gentle music)
Back in the bay, great sand dunes pile up
along the Oyster Catcher hiking trail giving walkers
a great view out to sea.
And from the top of the dunes it's also a good place
to spot right whales as well as dolphins.
Heading east along the coast is Pinnacle Point,
close to the town of Mossel Bay.
And on the headland is one of South Africa's
newest golf resorts.
It was constructed in 2006 and was declared
one of the top 10 new courses in the world.
Darren Clarke, the 2011 open champion, described the course
as, "The best golf course on the planet."
Apart from the golf, the breathtaking scenery
over the cliffs could inspire you to take up the game.
Though a bad shot could land your ball in the sea.
The resort also offers the very rich luxurious villas
with views across the links and out to sea.
(string music)
But how many golfers realize that underneath their feet
homo sapiens may well have first evolved in Africa
thousands of years ago.
These caves have revealed occupation by stone age people.
After debating for decades, paleoanthropologists now agree
there is enough genetic and fossil evidence to suggest
that homo sapiens evolved in Africa
around 180,000 years ago.
And at that time, much of the world was in an ice age,
and Africa was dry and arid.
As archeological sites dating to that time period are rare
in Africa, scientists analyze geological formations,
sea currents, and climate data to pinpoint likely
archeological sites, one of them was Pinnacle Point.
Back in the days of fully manned lighthouses,
one of the best postings in South Africa was to be assigned
the light keeper of the Capes St. Blaize lighthouse.
Because it stands right next to the bustling seaside town
of Mossel Bay and not in some remote place
miles from anywhere.
It was completed in March 1864, and up until the late 1970's
the lens turned on a clockwork system, which meant
that a light keeper had to climb the tower
and wind it up every three hours.
Today it's open to the public,
and the view from the lighthouse tower of the cliffs
and ocean are spectacular and well worth the climb.
Many of the workings of the lighthouse are now
fully automated but there still remains
a senior light keeper and two assistants who help
with radio watches and meteorological duties.
Across Mossel Bay is George Airport
and a very convenient place for us to land and refuel.
It was built in 1977 to service the growing popularity
of the area and the increasing number of holiday makers.
In 2003, the airport served 154,000 passengers.
And 10 years later, the figure had risen to nearly 570,000.
(upbeat classical music)
Taking off to the north towards the Outeniqua Mountains
we come across another helicopter, though this one
is somewhat larger.
This is a Kamov Ka-27, developed for the Russian Navy
for ferrying and anti-submarine warfare.
Design work began in 1969 and the first prototype
flew in 1973.
Like other Kamov military helicopters, it has coaxial rotors
meaning two layers of rotor blades
spinning in opposite directions which removes the need
for a tail rotor.
The Ka-27 has also been certified for commercial operations
throughout the world and is chiefly used for construction
purposes as it has a high lifting capacity
due to its powerful engines.
(upbeat classical music)
Over these hills is the river Kaaimans, and at the mouth
is the railway bridge.
The wonderfully named Outeniqua Choo Tjoe Heritage
steam trains ran across here until 2010
when the line became uneconomic.
We are now joining the Garden Route which is a stretch
of the southeastern coast which extends from Mossel Bay,
in the Western Cape, to Storms River in the Eastern Cape.
The name comes from the abundant and ecologically diverse
vegetation encountered here.
The route has an oceanic climate with mild to warm summers
and mild to cool winters.
It's said that it has the second mildest climate
in the world after Hawaii.
Temperatures rarely fall below 10 degrees Centigrade
in winter and seldom climb beyond 28 degrees in the summer.
This makes it a very attractive place to live,
or have a holiday house with many expensive homes
overlooking the sea.
This is the Noetzie River as it gently winds
its way to the sea through lush
and pristine natural forest.
Aware of its beauty the local residents applied
to have the area made into a conservancy in order
to protect it from further development.
They won, and in 1999, on the eve of the millennium,
Noetzie was officially protected.
(African choral music)
The river empties into the thunderous sea across golden sand
overlooked by a series of, castles.
Which are not as some think, the ancient haunts of pirates
but built in the 1930's.
The story goes that the owner had no intention
of building a castle but simply used the local stone
for practical reasons until a friend jokingly suggested
that he add a few turrets and turn it into a castle.
So he did.
Other buildings copied the style
and today there are five castles which are a mixture
of private homes and luxury hotels.
(African choral music)
(dramatic music)
The coastline of the garden route is one of the main
tourist attractions in South Africa.
However, most of them will never see it like this.
Our unique view from a helicopter gives us the feeling
of seeing it through the eyes of a bird,
as we swoop low, past the rugged and dramatic coastline.
(tribal music)
Over thousands of years the sea has carved out caves
and in some places spectacular rock arches.
(tribal music)
We now come to our final location, the Robberg Peninsula.
It's situated on the east side of Plettenberg Bay
and is not only a nature reserve
but also a national monument and world heritage site.
Rocks from this region date back over 200 million years
and there is later evidence of stone age habitation
found in a few of the caves along the peninsula.
For today's visitors, there are stunning views,
fantastic hiking and swimming from the sandy beaches.
The Robberg Peninsula is home
to a large cape fur seal colony.
Which can often be seen in the surf off Robberg Beach.
Though they prefer to live on rock ledges and reefs.
They are the largest and most robust of all types
of fur seals.
They have a large and broad head with a pointed snout.
They have external ear flaps and their whiskers
are long, especially in adult males and can be found
right around the South African coast.
Their main predator is the great white shark
and they too can be spotted out at sea
like patient visitors on the headland.
They may also glimpse Southern right whales,
orca killer whales, and three species of dolphins.
Robberg Peninsula is one of the many highlights
of the Garden Route, where people can get a true experience
of the natural world and a great place to end this journey.
(uplifting music)
(whoosh)
(whoosh)
(whoosh)
(whoosh)
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