Original subtitles

(light instrumental music)

- Our journey across four Italian lakes

begins at Lake Garda and the peninsula town of Sirmione

with its ancient castle and Roman remains.

We then head north to the magnificent

hilltop fortress at Besano,

before crossing the mountains and flying down Lake Garda

to the extraordinary Villa Vittoriale.

To the west is Lake Iseo and the island of Monte Isola.

It's the smallest of the four lakes on our journey.

Continuing west is the ancient town of Bergamo,

built on the Roman city of Bergomum.

We then head to the third lake on our journey, Lake Como,

and look at some of the beautiful lakeside villas,

including the stunning Villa del Balbianello.

Crossing the mountains to the west is Lake Maggiore,

and our final location.

It's one of the most beautiful gardens in the world,

the magnificent Isola Bella.

Lake Garda is the largest lake in Italy.

And like the four we will see in this journey,

has been formed by retreating glaciers.

And jutting out from the southern end

is the Sirmio Peninsula,

which projects around three kilometers into the lake.

(lively instrumental music)

In the middle is the town of Sirmione,

which has a history stretching back to the Stone Age.

Since Roman times, its strategic position

meant that it was of military importance,

and for centuries it was engulfed in

the turbulent history of Northern Italy.

And this has bequeathed Sirmione's major landmark,

the 12th century Scaligero Castle.

This is a rare example of a medieval port fortification.

It was named after the powerful Scaliger family

who built it to house their ships.

It's surrounded by water, with two drawbridges.

One for people and the other for ships.

It was designed to protect against enemies

as well as against the locals.

The battlements have a typical swallow-tail

style crenelation of the period,

and give the castle an almost fairytale-like look.

(lively instrumental music)

Today, Sirmione is a very popular place to visit

and the small town hemmed in by the lake

is a bustling place during the summer months.

And one of the best ways of getting to the town

is to go back in time and enjoy a leisurely boat ride

on one of the old paddle steamers, now converted to diesel.

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They have been cruising Lake Garda for well over 100 years.

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At the northern end of the peninsula

is the Grotto of Catullus,

which is something of a misnomer,

as it is neither a grotto,

nor did the Roman poet Catullus ever live here.

It's true that Catullus did live in a villa close by,

but that was well before this building ever existed.

The villa itself is a three story building

from around 150 A.D. and built for a rich patrician family.

What is true is that Catullus loved this place,

and is quoted as saying, "With what joy and happiness

"I see again Sirmione, jewel of the peninsulas and islands

"amongst all those that Neptune welcomes

"in the clear lakes and vast seas."

All around Lake Garda are towns and village which,

like Sirmione, have histories stretching back to Roman days.

Bardolino is one of them.

For centuries, fishing and olive oil

production were the main industries

until tourism took over in the late 19th century.

It's also popular due to the famous wine of the same name,

grown in the surrounding hillsides.

Just off the east side of the lake

is a deep mountain valley.

And clinging to the side of a precipice

is a monastery that seems to defy gravity.

This is the Santuario Madonna della Corona,

one of Italy's most impressive sites.

It's here because local legend has it

that one night in the early 16th century,

a bright light was seen on the

mountain slopes by villagers below.

On investigation, a statue of the Madonna

holding the body of Jesus in her arms was discovered.

In honor of this statue, the first church was built,

which was the size of a single room.

But in the following centuries right up to the late 1940s,

it was increasingly enlarged to

cope with pilgrims and visitors.

But how was all this building work achieved

in this seemingly impossible location?

The answer is that all the materials were

lowered by rope in the early centuries,

and then in later years by crane.

A few miles up the valley is the striking Castle of Avio.

This is one of several castles guarding

the Vallagarina Valley and the River Adige.

It was an important trade route into

the Italian states from Northern Europe.

In the 12th century it was owned by the Castelbarco family,

who surrendered it to the

Republic of Venice two centuries later.

It then changed hands several times until the 17th century

when the Castelbarco family bought it back.

They still own the castle today and open it to the public.

The castle consists of three lines

of walls with five towers,

including the so-called Torre della Picadora,

which was the place where executions were carried out

by hanging enemies and criminals from the top.

To the north is Castel Beseno.

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Standing on a hill near Folgaria,

this majestic fortress is the largest in the Trentino region

and commands all aspects of the valley.

The first written documents about it

date back to the 12th century,

when it belonged to the counts of Appiano

and served as a residence to the

aristocratic family Da Beseno.

Like all medieval castles,

it had a mainly defensive function.

And this is shown not only by its strategic position,

which renders the castle inaccessible,

but also by its massive walls

in the form of three powerful bastions,

which gave all around covering fire from every angle.

In 1470, the castle passed into

the hands of the counts Trapp,

who turned it from the medieval

castle into a private residence

and further improved it during the 16th century.

In 1973, the family donated the castle

to the Province of Trento,

which oversaw its restoration

and opened it as a successful museum.

Today visitors can try on and handle

the armor and weapons of the 15th and 17th centuries

and discover all the combat techniques of that time.

A more peaceful pursuit is to perhaps

stroll along the battlements and enjoy the stunning views

over the landscape surrounding this magnificent castle.

We now head out of the valley and across the mountains

back to the north end of Lake Garda.

As the sun begins to set, the light becomes magical.

(ethereal instrumental music)

The shape of the lake is typical

of what is called a moraine valley,

having been formed under the action

of a glacier thousands of years ago.

The northern part of the lake is narrower

and surrounded by high mountains,

and towering cliffs drop down to a road

which hugs the rugged shoreline.

This magnificent landscape has been

a draw for visitors since Roman times.

Most of the towns around the lake

have been turned into resorts.

Writers have sung Garda's praises over the centuries,

including Lord Byron and Goethe.

DH Lawrence lived by the lake for several months and wrote,

"The lake lies dim and milky.

"The mountains are dark blue.

"The sky glistens.

"The light burns gold."

Lawrence and his wife, Frieda, lived at Gargnano

close to this imposing lakeside residence,

the Villa Bertoni.

This massive neoclassical palace and manicured gardens

are a picturesque landmark on the lake.

The central part of this great palace

is adorned by a balustrade with mythological statues.

The garden is separated from the house by a road,

so a bridge connects the two.

It was built for the Bertoni family in the 18th century

and has remained in their care ever since.

On the same side of the lake

a few miles to the south at Fasano,

great slabs of beige marble stand

on top of this circular mausoleum,

from where a very strange citadel can be seen below.

It was all built by poet, soldier,

and adventurer Gabriele D'Annunzio.

He spent his last 15 years filling

his art nouveau designed Villa Vittoriale

with thousands of items of memorabilia.

Outside, amongst the cypress studded garden terraces,

is an amphitheater loosely based on the one in Pompeii.

There is a grand flamboyant entrance to the estate.

But perhaps the most surreal sight

is the battle cruiser Puglia,

given to D'Annunzio by the Italian Navy in 1925.

Bizarrely, he had it hauled up the hillside

and moored amongst the trees

overlooking his extraordinary creation,

which is now a very popular tourist attraction.

As the sun sets, we head for the airport

to refuel and put down for the night.

In the morning sunshine, we approach Lake Iseo,

the smallest of Northern Italy's four major lakes.

It's shaped like a scythe and cuts a deep blue swathe

at the foot of the Southern Alps.

It has only three main towns.

Iseo, Sarnico, and Lovere,

which are linked by a dramatic coastal road

offering breathtaking views over the water.

And rising dramatically from the lake's center,

Iseo's crowning glory.

The beautiful wooded island of Monte Isola,

which rises some 600 meters above sea level.

The island has a population of just under 2000 people

spread between 11 small villages.

There are indications of a Roman settlement,

but no real remains.

It's known that the island belonged to a monastery

before it was taken over by the

Oldofredi family who ruled the area.

During the 19th century,

the main industries were boat construction

and the manufacture of fishing nets.

Today it's mainly tourism.

And it's a paradise for walkers.

Regular ferries run from the mainland all year round,

as it's the only way to get on and off the island.

To the north of Monte Isola is Loreto Island.

In 1910, a naval officer bought this tiny island

and built a gothic castle,

complete with a castellated dock and lighthouse.

Recently, it was put up for sale

and the prospective buyer was said

to be the actor George Clooney.

But in the end, he changed his mind.

To the east of the lake are the Pyramids of Zone.

These extraordinary shapes close to the village of Zone

are the result of a rare erosion marvel

in partly cemented clay gravel deposits.

The rainwater gradually washes away

the clay from the mountain slopes,

except where a harder section of rock acts as a cap,

or rather like an umbrella.

This extremely rare natural spectacle

is one of only a handful in the whole world.

And in 1984, the pyramids were protected in a new regional

reserve which extends to approximately 21 hectares.

These earth pyramids are also known as hoodoos,

tent rocks, fairy chimneys,

and rather charmingly in France as ladies with hairdos.

They can range in height from an average human

to well over a 10 story building.

The north end of the lake is more mountainous,

as the Alps loom in the distance.

This majestic landscape has been

admired throughout the ages.

A diarist in the 18th century noted that,

"I am now in a place,

"the most beautifully romantic I ever saw in my life."

There are two main ways of traveling around the lake.

By the shoreside road which links the towns and villages

and by the various ferries

which crisscross the lake everyday.

But for Italian officials, there is a third way,

and that's by flying boat.

And we've been alerted by air traffic control

to keep an eye out for one of them flying up from the south.

In mountainous terrain, landing on water

is often the only way to use a fixed wing aircraft.

During the summer months,

firefighting is where flying boats come into their own,

as they can scoop up water from a lake or reservoir,

fly to a mountain fire quickly,

and return to refill with water

several times before the need to refuel.

Our journey continues west towards Lake Como.

And on the way, we have to fly past Bergamo.

The modern city is built over the Roman one,

which was called Bergomum.

500 years later, it was destroyed by Attila the Hun

and his invasion of Roman Italy.

From this devastation, the city gradually grew again.

And in 1428, it came under the control of the

Venetian Republican who fortified the hilltop city.

Today it is known as the upper town,

and within its walls are the cathedral,

official buildings, fine piazzas,

several museums, and a castle.

They are all connected by narrow streets,

going back 500 years.

It's also a very popular place to live.

And as a result, it's also a very expensive place to live.

Bergamo is a city with a double identity.

The ancient upper town towers over

the largely modern lower town,

which was built up throughout the 20th century.

A funicular railway connects the two.

Lake Como is shaped like an inverted Y.

And on one end of the fork,

the River Adda flows out and forms two small lakes.

The first is Lake Olginate,

which is surrounded by housing and industry.

The second is Lake Garlate.

It's well known for it's 17th century silk mill,

which was revived in the 1950s

with the addition of a museum.

At the junction with Lake Como is the town of Lecco.

The city on the east bank of the River Adda

has a history stretching back to pre-Roman times

and is full of centuries old villas

as well as modern architecture.

It has stunning views of the surrounding mountains,

and of course, the lake.

Lecco grew rapidly during the Industrial Revolution

of the late 18th century and eventually became

one of the most important Italian industrial centers.

Today, it's the capital of a wealthy and productive area,

with many beautiful lakeside villas.

Lake Como is perhaps the best known lake

of the four we will see on this journey.

It's certainly one of the most visited,

as it's not far from the major city

of Milan 60 kilometers to the south.

The lake is 50 kilometers long.

Not very wide, but extremely deep.

It's over 400 meters at some points.

Like the other lakes we have seen,

it has always been popular as a resort

since the days of the Roman Empire.

Visitors ever since have admired the blue waters

and relaxed in luxurious villas

in the wooded lakeside slopes above.

Today, most of the towns around the shores of Lake Como

are popular with tourists, walkers, cyclists, and swimmers.

We are flying up the western leg

towards the junction with the picturesque town

of Bellagio on the promontory between them.

Called the pearl of the lake,

there are few places that are as romantic.

Beautiful villas have been built

to take advantage of the magnificent views.

Bellagio's hotels and restaurants

provide the visitor with panoramic views as well.

And the town is well known for its old buildings,

stone lanes, and picturesque cobble

stairways filled with shops.

It was Francesco Melzi d'Eril, Count of Lodi

and Vice President of the First Italian Republic

in the time of Napoleon Bonaparte

who decided at the beginning of the 19th century

to build a summer residence at Bellagio.

And as a result, assured the town's popularity as a resort.

His villa was built around 1810

in the neoclassical style of Napoleonic France.

The romantic discovery of this striking lakeland landscape

spread across Europe and beyond during the 19th century.

Visitors extolled the beauty in print,

and changed how the lakes were seen.

The French novelist, Stendhal, first visited in 1810.

"What can one say about Lake Como,

"unless it be that one pities those

"who are not madly in love with it?

"The sky is pure, the air mild,

"and one recognizes the land beloved of the gods.

"The happy land that neither barbarous invasions

"nor civil discords could deprive

"of its heaven sent blessings."

And from his villa window overlooking the lake, he wrote,

"I isolate myself in a room on the second floor.

"There, I lift my gaze to the most

"beautiful view in the world."

And surely one of the beautiful villas on Lake Como

is on the end of this wooded peninsula,

the Villa del Balbianello.

(calm instrumental music)

It was built in 1787 on the side of a Franciscan monastery.

In the early 1900s, an American businessman

purchased and renovated the villa and its garden.

Today it belongs to the National Trust of Italy

and is often used as a location,

such as for the James Bond film, "Casino Royale."

Also on Lake Como is the Island of Comacina,

once a Roman stronghold

and fought over during the medieval period.

Today it's a more peaceful place with a popular restaurant,

a short boat ride from the town of Sala Comacina

on a peaceful inlet called Zoca de l'oli.

The name refers to the small scale production

of olive oil during the medieval period.

We now leave Lake Como and cross

the mountains to Lake Maggiore.

This is the second largest in Italy,

which its top quarter in Switzerland.

One of the main towns on its shoreline is Verbania.

And from here it's possible to explore

a group of islands acquired by the

Borromean family in the 16th century.

This is the Isolino di San Giovanni.

Isola Madre is the largest of the group.

The palace is no longer lived in,

but is open to the public, as is the garden,

which was laid out in the English style

during the early 19th century.

Isola Superiore is the only Borromean island

still inhabited all year round by about 60 people.

Most of the visitors who come here

would also visit the island just to the south.

It's one of the greatest gardens in the world.

The magnificent Isola Bella.

(upbeat orchestral music)

In 1671, this island was a barren rock

with a few fishermen's cottages.

Half a century later, it was a paradise island.

A grand galleon covered with flowers,

anchored in the blue waters of Lake Maggiore.

It is named about Isabella D'Adda,

the wife of Carlo Borromeo, who began the transformation.

He hired an architect to design a castle type building

where the palace currently stands

and a more elegant villa at the highest point of the island.

In spite of Carlo's plans, it was to be his sons,

Vitaliano and Giberto Borromeo,

who really transformed Isola Bella.

Abandoning the original architect's plans

and dropping the idea of a villa in the center,

they planned the palace and gardens we see today.

Once the garden architecture was underway,

thousands of tons of soil was transported

to the island for the enormous number

of exotic trees and flowers to be planted.

All around are statues of architectural detail set amidst

the perfect geometrical designs of the flowerbeds.

Even today, it takes an army of gardeners

to preserve this enchanted place from the passage of time.

As visitors enter the garden,

they are welcomed by the amphitheater

and the breathtaking views from the top.

This Italian garden with its Baroque parterres

And terraces placed at different heights

and sprinkled with statues, obleisks,

stone stairs, and balustrades,

is a truly magical place.

It was built at a time when a powerful

and rich family had a vision that they knew could not

come to fruition until well after their lifetime.

Who today would build on such a scale?

In fact, the palace and garden wasn't

actually deemed finished until 1959.

Today it's still a Borromeo residence.

And a flag outside notifies visitors

and inhabitants of the island

when a member of the family is in residence.

It's a truly perfect place to end this journey.

(orchestral music ends)

(upbeat instrumental music)