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(wind rushing)
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(intense dramatic orchestral music)
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- Our journey
begins in the northwest corner
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of Iceland, where the small isolated town
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of Patreksfjordur lies
beneath a towering fjord.
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Moving east, it's on to the icecap
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atop the Drangajokull mountain range.
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We travel over lakes and more mountains
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to visit an old salting factory
before going on to explore
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the puffin paradise at Grimsey Island.
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It takes us to the medieval town of Holar
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and its archeological dig.
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In the heart of the northwest,
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we find the charming city of Akureyri,
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the region's de facto capital.
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At the majestic Vatnejokull National Park,
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we follow a mighty glacial river
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to end our journey at the
formidable Dettifoss waterfall.
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Stretching out into the icy
waters of the Denmark Strait
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are the Westfjords, a jagged peninsula
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in the northwest corner of Iceland,
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perched on the very edge of Europe.
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It's known for its rugged
beauty and isolation
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and for its tight knit communities
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that have spawned a unique
and self-reliant culture.
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♪ Aah haa-ah ♪
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- Since most of
this region in mountainous
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towns and villages have grown
up on narrow strips of lowland
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that separate the
mountains from the fjords.
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♪ Hah ha-hah-hah ♪
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- Geographically
cut off from the outside world
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the more than 600 residents in
the village of Patreksfjordur
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have a strong regional identity
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and are deeply connected to the landscape.
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♪ Ah aah ♪
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- The Westfjords
were first settled
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by the Vikings in the 9th century.
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And long before there were roads,
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settlers depended on the sea
to move from place to place.
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♪ Hah ha-hah ♪
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- Today, paved and
gravel roads connect villages
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and towns across the mountains
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but there are no shortcuts.
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Roads meander around the
endless and intricate fjords
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carved by ancient glaciers.
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It's been said that in the Westfjords
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all roads are scenic routes.
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♪ Ah-aah ♪
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- The region
is known for its dramatic
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and unpredictable weather.
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A sunny day can quickly give
way to rain or snowflakes.
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♪ Ah ah-hah ♪
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- It's a
place where winter lasts
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nearly half the year.
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♪ Ah-hah ♪
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- Even in summer
the mountains are snow capped
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and temperatures rarely rise
above 20 degrees Celsius.
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But the warm hues of Iceland
can be found year round,
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a palette of white in winter
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and shades of green and gray in spring.
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Moving east over Onundarfjord
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we find the village of Flateyri,
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once a base for shark
and whaling expeditions.
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Today it's a popular destination
for foreign sea anglers
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and the site of a popular
sand castle competition.
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But the spirited village of fewer than 300
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suffered an unfortunate tragedy in 1995.
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Two large avalanches
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swept down the steep
mountain behind the village
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in January and October,
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burying homes and
killing dozens of people.
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An earthen dam was built
to protect the village
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from the winter snows.
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A new protective wall
has done its job well.
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In recent years it has deflected
snow away from the village
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in the midst of several avalanches.
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The tragedy stands as a
reminder of the power of nature
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and the vulnerability of residents
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who live beneath the
country's towering mountains.
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(evocative instrumental music)
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Flying into the town Isafjordur
in a small passenger plane
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is not for the faint-hearted,
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though it's a lot easier
in our helicopter.
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Passengers are treated to
an unforgettable experience
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as the plane banks steeply
around the narrow fjord
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then skims past the sheer mountainside
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before flying over the
colorful city suburbs
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then dropping safely
onto the landing strip.
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Isafjordur, or ice ford,
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is nestled in a curving spit of land
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jutting out into the sea.
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Steep mountains rise up
on either side of the bay
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like protective castle walls.
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It's the largest city in the Westfjords,
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a fearless frontier town of 3,000
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still clinging to a
traditional way of life.
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It's a cozy place filled
with old world architecture
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and a strong tradition of music and art.
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The brightly colored
dwellings seen from above
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are common throughout Iceland
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and are a testament to
the sunny disposition
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of the Icelandic people.
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The city boasts the largest collection
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of old timber frame houses in the country.
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It's no surprise that fishing
is an important industry
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in Isafjordur.
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But new restrictions for fishermen
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and a decline in fish stocks
have led to industry cutbacks.
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Many residents have
left to seek employment
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in the bright lights of the
nation's capital, Reykjavik.
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Iceland is known for its play of light.
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Home to the midnight sun in summer,
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and the ethereal Northern
Lights in winter.
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Fjords have a unique
connection to the sea.
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They were formed when
the glaciers retreated
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leaving U-shaped valleys in their wake.
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Water rushed in to fill them,
forming steep-sided inlets.
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And creating one of the most dramatic
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landscape features on Earth.
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(ethereal evocative music)
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Geologists from around
the globe come to Iceland
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to unlock the mysteries
of the Earth's formation.
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Millions of years ago the
rest of the world was formed
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by the same processes
ongoing in Iceland today.
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00:08:01,990 --> 00:08:05,493
It's a young country, and
still a land in the making.
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Thankfully for the visitor,
most of the country's treasures
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are clearly visible to the eye.
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There are 15 active
volcanoes, 10,000 waterfalls,
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more than 200 named glaciers,
and immense lava fields.
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All packed into a country
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that would fit into the size of England.
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Moving south across Westfjord,
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we rise up over the Drangajokull ice cap,
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the country's northernmost glacier.
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It lies in the uninhabited
Hornstrandir peninsula,
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now a nature reserve,
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and an area of outstanding natural beauty.
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Glaciers cover 11% of the country,
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reflecting shades of white, black and blue
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across the frozen landscape.
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South of the glacier the sky
is reflected in a melting lake,
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a reminder of the pristine
nature of the island.
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Ranked the cleanest country in the world,
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Iceland is an environmental success story.
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Nearly all of its energy demands
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are met by renewable resources.
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The country's pure ecosystem
is also a source of pride
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to its residents,
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with rivers and streams
that are free of pollutants
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and provide water that is
clean and fresh from the tap.
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Nobel author Halldor Laxness,
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set one of his novels here in Djupavik,
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where vast fortunes were
made in the herring industry.
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(gentle instrumental music)
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Drawing its heyday in the
1930s, this old salting factory
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processed unlimited numbers of herring.
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But by the mid-1950s
herring stocks dwindled
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and the plant was forced to close.
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Today it stands as a stark reminder
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that fortunes made from the
sea have waxed and waned
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throughout the country's history.
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But Iceland stands in
the forefront of nations
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that have moved toward
conservation of fish stocks
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by monitoring fish populations
and establishing quotas.
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Cod is the most important
stock in Iceland,
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accounting for about a third
of its earnings from the sea.
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But despite two decades of restrictions
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the cod catch has never
returned to its historic levels.
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Moving south, we climb up the sheer sides
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of one of the high lava
peaks of the Westfjords.
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(soaring instrumental music)
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And across the clear
reflections of a glacial lake
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to our last stop in the
western reaches of Iceland,
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the puffin paradise of Grimsey Island.
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A 10 minute boat ride from
the small fishing village
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of Drangsnes on Steingrimsfjordur bay
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brings us to the island
which boasts a rich bird life
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of puffins, cormorants, and other birds.
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Farmers and fishermen lived on Grimsey
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until the 20th century,
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but it's now inhabited
by many bird species,
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including a large colony of puffins,
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which sadly for us was
here earlier in the year.
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Other visitors to this
region include polar bears
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which drift in on icebergs
from the Arctic Circle,
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and occasional walrus
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that swim from the
eastern shore of Greenland
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100 kilometers away.
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♪ Aah ah-ah a-a-ah ♪
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- Leaving the
Westfjords we find a gentler,
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more fertile landscape in
Iceland's northwest region.
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♪ Ah ah-ah ♪
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- And along
this beach near Blonduos,
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we see what happens when
hot lava meets cold water.
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It produces black sand,
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creating some of the most
beautiful beaches in the world.
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♪ Aah ah-ah-ah ♪
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- With evening drawing in
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we reach the town of Saudarkrokur.
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♪ Ah-Ah ah-ah-ah-ah ♪
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- It has the
only airport in the area
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with flights to Reykjavik
five times a week.
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And also, a place for
us to stop overnight.
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Beyond fishing, Saudarkrokur
is home to another industry,
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the only one of its kind in
the world, a fish tannery.
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00:13:01,200 --> 00:13:04,460
Since 1991 the family-run tannery
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00:13:04,460 --> 00:13:06,963
has been turning fish skin into leather.
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00:13:08,020 --> 00:13:12,003
After it's exported, it's made
into luxury shoes and purses.
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These wooden structures are
used for drying cod fish,
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another important product for export.
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This town boasts the largest
cod fish drying operation
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in Iceland.
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European countries have been drying cod
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for more than 500 years
in much the same way.
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It's one of the world's
oldest preservation methods.
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Once dehydrated by the wind and sun
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cod parts are packaged in a warehouse here
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and even exported to Nigeria as stock fish
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where it is used in
many varieties of soups.
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Moving southeast, we see
powerful glacial rivers
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00:13:59,580 --> 00:14:02,800
carve their way through
deep volcanic canyons
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00:14:02,800 --> 00:14:04,333
on their journey to the ocean.
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00:14:07,160 --> 00:14:09,920
This birds eye view of the Jokulsa River
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00:14:09,920 --> 00:14:12,400
flowing along the black volcanic sand
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00:14:12,400 --> 00:14:16,910
shows an amazing array of
lines, colors, and patterns,
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00:14:16,910 --> 00:14:18,273
like an abstract painting.
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Rivers like these have numerous channels
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00:14:23,900 --> 00:14:26,480
that split off and rejoin each other
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00:14:26,480 --> 00:14:29,763
and are most often found
in glacial regions.
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00:14:31,010 --> 00:14:33,870
Of course, the best place
to view these works of art
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00:14:33,870 --> 00:14:37,220
is from above, where
the intricate patterns
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00:14:37,220 --> 00:14:38,563
are visible to the eye.
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00:14:42,660 --> 00:14:46,860
Traveling south, and behind
this ridge, is Holar,
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one of Iceland's most
famous historical sites
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and home to an agricultural university
236
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that specializes in horse breeding.
237
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(gentle piano music)
238
00:14:56,780 --> 00:14:58,180
Early in the 12th century,
239
00:14:58,180 --> 00:15:00,810
and well after Christianity
was brought to Iceland
240
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by Norwegian missionaries,
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00:15:02,720 --> 00:15:06,573
Holar become the northern
See of the Iceland Church.
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For the next seven centuries
the hamlet flourished
243
00:15:11,770 --> 00:15:14,430
as a cultural and educational center,
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playing an important role
in Icelandic politics.
245
00:15:18,530 --> 00:15:21,570
But in 1550, during the Reformation,
246
00:15:21,570 --> 00:15:24,540
the last Catholic bishop, Jon Arason
247
00:15:24,540 --> 00:15:28,373
was taken south and beheaded,
along with his two sons.
248
00:15:31,360 --> 00:15:33,540
Excavation in the small village
249
00:15:33,540 --> 00:15:38,150
have been ongoing by archeologists
for more than a decade
250
00:15:38,150 --> 00:15:41,300
and a more substantive
picture of life at Holar
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is slowly coming to light.
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Thousands of artifacts have been found,
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00:15:47,300 --> 00:15:49,200
along with footprints.
254
00:15:49,200 --> 00:15:51,980
And amongst the medieval
buildings unearthed
255
00:15:51,980 --> 00:15:54,183
are a farmhouse and a feasting hall.
256
00:16:00,610 --> 00:16:03,220
Every year in autumn, sheep and horses
257
00:16:03,220 --> 00:16:06,520
are rounded up from the grazing
areas along these mountains
258
00:16:06,520 --> 00:16:10,470
and are led home to
villages in nearby valleys.
259
00:16:10,470 --> 00:16:13,460
The day the animals are
paraded back to their corrals
260
00:16:13,460 --> 00:16:17,830
is an annual event with
traditional songs, dancing,
261
00:16:17,830 --> 00:16:20,390
and a good amount of drinking.
262
00:16:20,390 --> 00:16:23,540
The evening celebrations
last until the small hours
263
00:16:23,540 --> 00:16:26,370
of the morning, long after the horses
264
00:16:26,370 --> 00:16:27,993
have found their way back home.
265
00:16:28,971 --> 00:16:30,380
(emotive instrumental music)
266
00:16:30,380 --> 00:16:33,010
We are now approaching
the majestic lava peaks
267
00:16:33,010 --> 00:16:35,620
of the Drangafjall mountain range.
268
00:16:35,620 --> 00:16:38,860
Shaped by glaciers and
cold arctic temperatures
269
00:16:38,860 --> 00:16:41,990
its highest point is called Steeple Rock,
270
00:16:41,990 --> 00:16:45,273
standing at 1,075 meters.
271
00:16:50,060 --> 00:16:52,320
Below the mountain stands the birthplace
272
00:16:52,320 --> 00:16:56,290
of the beloved Icelandic
poet, Jonas Hallgrimsson,
273
00:16:56,290 --> 00:16:59,040
who wrote a love poem, "Journey's End"
274
00:16:59,040 --> 00:17:02,660
about a young man
grieving for his lost love
275
00:17:02,660 --> 00:17:03,973
near Steeple Rock.
276
00:17:04,880 --> 00:17:07,690
The star of love over Steeple Rock
277
00:17:07,690 --> 00:17:10,610
is cloaked in clouds of night.
278
00:17:10,610 --> 00:17:14,090
It laughed, once, from heaven on the lad
279
00:17:14,090 --> 00:17:16,423
grieving deep in the dark valley.
280
00:17:18,260 --> 00:17:21,880
The peak was finally scaled in 1954
281
00:17:21,880 --> 00:17:26,083
and the climbers were rewarded
with these magnificent views.
282
00:17:28,710 --> 00:17:31,110
Traveling east, we follow the road
283
00:17:31,110 --> 00:17:33,960
as it passes through the
valley of the river Horga
284
00:17:33,960 --> 00:17:38,568
on its way to Akureyri on
the edge of Eyjafjordur.
285
00:17:38,568 --> 00:17:40,130
(ethereal music)
286
00:17:40,130 --> 00:17:43,753
This little city is the de
facto capital of the north.
287
00:17:45,570 --> 00:17:48,750
It may also be the
happiest place in Iceland.
288
00:17:48,750 --> 00:17:51,890
Well kept houses grace tree lined streets.
289
00:17:51,890 --> 00:17:54,150
The stoplights are heart-shaped,
290
00:17:54,150 --> 00:17:55,850
and thanks to the town's adoption
291
00:17:55,850 --> 00:17:58,880
of the ascetic movement
in the early 20th century,
292
00:17:58,880 --> 00:18:00,570
there are many fine buildings,
293
00:18:00,570 --> 00:18:02,670
including the Lutheran church,
294
00:18:02,670 --> 00:18:07,453
which was completed in 1949
and towers over the city.
295
00:18:09,770 --> 00:18:11,590
It's a prosperous place.
296
00:18:11,590 --> 00:18:13,980
Two of the country's
biggest fishing companies
297
00:18:13,980 --> 00:18:17,800
are headquartered here,
along with a busy marine port
298
00:18:17,800 --> 00:18:19,763
and several universities.
299
00:18:21,110 --> 00:18:22,750
Like all Icelanders,
300
00:18:22,750 --> 00:18:26,370
residents here enjoy spending
time in thermal pools,
301
00:18:26,370 --> 00:18:28,540
and thanks to the country's geology,
302
00:18:28,540 --> 00:18:30,980
there is an abundance of naturally heated
303
00:18:30,980 --> 00:18:33,293
geothermal water to fill them.
304
00:18:34,180 --> 00:18:38,010
The Icelandic people take
their swimming seriously.
305
00:18:38,010 --> 00:18:40,460
Students can't graduate from school
306
00:18:40,460 --> 00:18:42,293
until they have mastered the skill.
307
00:18:44,630 --> 00:18:48,570
Despite being only 100
kilometers from the Arctic Circle
308
00:18:48,570 --> 00:18:50,470
the city and surrounding area
309
00:18:50,470 --> 00:18:53,280
enjoy some of the
country's warmest weather,
310
00:18:53,280 --> 00:18:56,873
a fact not lost the city's many visitors.
311
00:18:59,350 --> 00:19:01,430
Moving east, we fly across
312
00:19:01,430 --> 00:19:04,610
the most fertile farmland in the country.
313
00:19:04,610 --> 00:19:06,250
The local farms here
314
00:19:06,250 --> 00:19:08,463
are in the business of raising livestock.
315
00:19:11,324 --> 00:19:14,580
Most of the animals in
Iceland are direct descendants
316
00:19:14,580 --> 00:19:18,253
of those brought to the island
by the early Viking settlers.
317
00:19:20,440 --> 00:19:24,210
Directly east is the Husavik lighthouse,
318
00:19:24,210 --> 00:19:26,883
keeping watch over the Skjalfandi bay.
319
00:19:33,230 --> 00:19:35,570
Although the northeast is one of Iceland's
320
00:19:35,570 --> 00:19:39,780
most isolated areas the
pretty fishing town of Husavik
321
00:19:39,780 --> 00:19:43,100
pulls in the crowds
thanks to its nickname,
322
00:19:43,100 --> 00:19:44,913
the Whale Watching Capital.
323
00:19:46,260 --> 00:19:48,853
Its bay is rich in plankton and fish.
324
00:19:51,860 --> 00:19:53,470
Attracted by the feast,
325
00:19:53,470 --> 00:19:57,810
a wide variety of large sea
creatures swim in these waters,
326
00:19:57,810 --> 00:20:01,513
including the elusive
blue and beluga whales.
327
00:20:04,200 --> 00:20:08,040
Not far from the port at
Husavik is Lundey Island.
328
00:20:08,040 --> 00:20:10,460
Crowded with puffins from April to August
329
00:20:10,460 --> 00:20:12,040
the seabirds don't seem to mind
330
00:20:12,040 --> 00:20:14,423
the island's rather diminutive size.
331
00:20:18,230 --> 00:20:21,220
Atlantic puffins, black guillemots,
332
00:20:21,220 --> 00:20:23,410
fulmars, and Arctic terns
333
00:20:23,410 --> 00:20:26,880
come back each year in
droves to breed and nest,
334
00:20:26,880 --> 00:20:30,533
seemingly unaware that they're
a major tourist attraction.
335
00:20:34,660 --> 00:20:37,130
Traveling inland and away from the fjords
336
00:20:37,130 --> 00:20:39,600
we find Godafoss falls,
337
00:20:39,600 --> 00:20:44,012
whose name translates as
the waterfall of the gods.
338
00:20:44,012 --> 00:20:47,595
(soaring orchestral music)
339
00:20:49,290 --> 00:20:52,160
In the year 1000, Thorgeir Thorkelsson,
340
00:20:52,160 --> 00:20:55,220
the lawspeaker of the Icelandic parliament
341
00:20:55,220 --> 00:20:58,543
made Christianity the
official religion of Iceland.
342
00:21:00,100 --> 00:21:01,580
To mark the occasion
343
00:21:01,580 --> 00:21:05,600
he threw his pagan statues
into the water here,
344
00:21:05,600 --> 00:21:09,703
making Godafoss the symbolic
site of Iceland's conversion.
345
00:21:12,770 --> 00:21:15,800
Whilst not the tallest
waterfall in the country,
346
00:21:15,800 --> 00:21:18,413
Godafoss is famed for its beauty.
347
00:21:22,670 --> 00:21:25,460
If there's one experience
that defines the country,
348
00:21:25,460 --> 00:21:28,420
it's the classic Icelandic soak.
349
00:21:28,420 --> 00:21:30,660
An abundance of geothermal energy
350
00:21:30,660 --> 00:21:33,560
ensures that virtually
every town in Iceland
351
00:21:33,560 --> 00:21:36,072
has a naturally heated pool.
352
00:21:36,072 --> 00:21:39,405
(light uplifting music)
353
00:21:41,900 --> 00:21:45,430
Piping hot water is
siphoned off to public pools
354
00:21:45,430 --> 00:21:47,693
from a nearby geothermal power plant.
355
00:21:49,720 --> 00:21:53,520
This lagoon above Myvatn is manmade,
356
00:21:53,520 --> 00:21:57,380
but its pure water has
unique characteristics.
357
00:21:57,380 --> 00:22:00,640
It's alkaline and filled
with natural minerals
358
00:22:00,640 --> 00:22:03,823
and trace elements along
with a bit of sulfur.
359
00:22:05,380 --> 00:22:08,530
It's considered to have a
positive effect on respiratory
360
00:22:08,530 --> 00:22:09,943
and skin conditions.
361
00:22:11,570 --> 00:22:14,440
The Icelandic tradition
of bathing outdoors
362
00:22:14,440 --> 00:22:16,383
dates back to Viking times.
363
00:22:19,160 --> 00:22:21,830
A bit further east in
a lunar-like landscape,
364
00:22:21,830 --> 00:22:25,220
we find the mud pools of Hverirand.
365
00:22:25,220 --> 00:22:28,193
Steaming ponds of bubbling black mud.
366
00:22:29,210 --> 00:22:30,640
Visitors to this area
367
00:22:30,640 --> 00:22:32,993
feel as if they've
landed on another planet.
368
00:22:33,870 --> 00:22:36,720
These mud pools form in rainwater ponds
369
00:22:36,720 --> 00:22:40,960
when steam and gas beneath
the earth rise to the surface.
370
00:22:40,960 --> 00:22:44,270
The acidic gases break down surface rocks
371
00:22:44,270 --> 00:22:46,260
which turn into clay.
372
00:22:46,260 --> 00:22:49,770
The clay-rich soil then
mixes with the pond water
373
00:22:49,770 --> 00:22:52,543
to produce a muddy steam-heated slurry.
374
00:22:54,500 --> 00:22:57,520
According to legend this area of Iceland
375
00:22:57,520 --> 00:22:59,620
was made by an envious devil
376
00:22:59,620 --> 00:23:02,473
while God rested on the seventh day.
377
00:23:05,230 --> 00:23:09,270
South of the mud pools is
the Krafla Power Station
378
00:23:09,270 --> 00:23:12,630
whose job is to harness some
of the raw energy of the land
379
00:23:12,630 --> 00:23:15,470
and convert it into electricity.
380
00:23:15,470 --> 00:23:18,460
This power plant, the largest in Iceland,
381
00:23:18,460 --> 00:23:22,140
is strategically located
near the Krafla Volcano,
382
00:23:22,140 --> 00:23:27,140
taking advantage of the area's
geothermal energy supply.
383
00:23:27,290 --> 00:23:31,410
Cool, fresh water is piped
down to the Earth's hot crust
384
00:23:31,410 --> 00:23:34,963
and raised to temperatures
above a 100 degrees celsius.
385
00:23:37,260 --> 00:23:40,770
The resulting steam is
used to spin turbines
386
00:23:40,770 --> 00:23:42,480
to produce electricity.
387
00:23:42,480 --> 00:23:45,890
More than 90% of Icelandic homes
388
00:23:45,890 --> 00:23:48,283
are heated with geothermal water.
389
00:23:50,080 --> 00:23:54,110
Moving east, we see another
example of nature's power,
390
00:23:54,110 --> 00:23:58,117
the waterfalls flowing from
the Jokulsa a Fjollum River
391
00:23:58,117 --> 00:24:00,703
and Vatnajokull National Park.
392
00:24:01,690 --> 00:24:04,720
This is the Hafragilsfoss waterfall.
393
00:24:04,720 --> 00:24:06,230
(emotive instrumental music)
394
00:24:06,230 --> 00:24:09,990
And downstream is the more
humble Selfoss waterfall,
395
00:24:09,990 --> 00:24:11,813
at just 11 meters high.
396
00:24:13,490 --> 00:24:16,420
You can hear the mighty
Dettifoss waterfall
397
00:24:16,420 --> 00:24:20,513
long before you see it, a
testament to its sheer power.
398
00:24:30,140 --> 00:24:34,840
It's Europe's largest, boasting
500 cubic meters of water
399
00:24:34,840 --> 00:24:37,403
spilling over its edge every second.
400
00:24:39,350 --> 00:24:41,970
What it might lack in height and width
401
00:24:41,970 --> 00:24:45,820
is made up for in the sheer
volume of thunderous water
402
00:24:45,820 --> 00:24:48,060
crashing through the narrow channel
403
00:24:48,060 --> 00:24:51,820
and dropping to the gorge
below with a plume of spray
404
00:24:51,820 --> 00:24:53,823
that can be seen a kilometer away.
405
00:24:55,150 --> 00:24:58,920
Melting ice and snow feed
the rivers of Iceland,
406
00:24:58,920 --> 00:25:01,470
which is still a relatively young country
407
00:25:01,470 --> 00:25:03,123
in geological terms.
408
00:25:04,040 --> 00:25:08,160
And young rivers, like young
boys, are much more boisterous
409
00:25:08,160 --> 00:25:12,410
than the calm, meandering
rivers in older countries.
410
00:25:12,410 --> 00:25:15,280
The waterfalls here stand as a testament
411
00:25:15,280 --> 00:25:17,693
to the youthful vibrancy of Iceland.
412
00:25:18,690 --> 00:25:21,550
In this land of 10,000 waterfalls,
413
00:25:21,550 --> 00:25:25,120
Dettifoss is surely one
of the most impressive.
414
00:25:25,120 --> 00:25:28,603
And a very popular stop
on the tourist route.
415
00:25:29,490 --> 00:25:33,003
It's the perfect place
to end this journey.
416
00:25:37,266 --> 00:25:40,933
(dramatic orchestral music)
33363
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