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(dramatic music)
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(upbeat music)
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- Our journey
begins in Corolla, a magnificent
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holiday destination at the
northern end of the Outer Banks,
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a string of islands and
peninsulas that runs along
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the east coast of the
state of North Carolina.
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Heading west, we reach Bull
Neck Swamp Research Forest.
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Once stripped by loggers,
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it's now a leading
center for conservation.
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To the east, we discover
the Wright Brothers National
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Memorial, where they first
achieved powered flight,
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and transformed the modern world.
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Continuing south, we find Roanoke Island,
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home to one of America's
oldest unsolved mysteries,
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the lost colony of 1587.
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Moving south along the coast,
we discover why it's called,
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"the graveyard of the Atlantic".
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Finally, we head inland to New Bern,
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one of America's oldest
towns and the birthplace
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of Pepsi Cola.
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On the east coast of America,
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in the southern state of North Carolina,
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is the town of Corolla.
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Until a development boom, in
the 1980's, it was little known
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and rarely visited.
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It was known as North
Carolina's last beach frontier.
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Today, with it's spectacular
beaches, holiday homes,
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and magnificent sea views,
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Corolla is a popular tourist destination.
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The town is at the northern
end of the Outer Banks,
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a 320 kilometer long strip that separates
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the Atlantic Ocean, to the east,
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from the estuaries and inlets,
or sounds, to the west.
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One of the town's most famous
sites is it's lighthouse,
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Currituck Beach Light.
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Built in 1875, it's 48 meters tall.
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Many of the visitors, drawn
to Corolla and it's beaches,
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are families and this
has long been the case.
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In 1892 a writer, from
Harper's Weekly, wrote,
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"If there were any spot on
earth that one would expect
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"to find untenanted, it surely
would be this stretch of sand
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"between ocean and sound.
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"Yet there is a hardy
race who have lived here,
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"from father to son, for over a century.
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"They exist entirely by hunting,
fishing, rearing cattle,
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"and acting as guides."
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Whilst guiding and rearing
cattle have fallen from favor,
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it remains a great spot for
fishing and enjoying family life
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on the beach.
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Crossing to the west, we find
the estuary of Albemarle Sound
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00:04:07,810 --> 00:04:12,228
and, on the mainland, Bull
Neck Swamp Research Forest.
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Covering 25 square
kilometers, it's owned by
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North Carolina State University.
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It provides a habitat for many species,
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including black bears, bobcats, and deer.
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Before it was made a
protected area, in 1996,
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the site was owned by logging companies.
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And much of the forestry's
conservation efforts have been
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to bring back the Atlantic white cedar,
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which had been heavily deforested.
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Today the forest is used to
research conservation techniques
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and, in order to raise funds
for the continued work,
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the Department of Forestry
and Environmental Resources
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allows sustainable timber sales
and issues a certain number
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of hunting licenses.
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Crossing back to the Outer
Banks, we find this four
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and a half kilometer long bridge.
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It's name offers a clue to
the world changing event
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that happened near here.
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It's called the Wright Memorial Bridge.
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And this is the town
of Kitty Hawk offering,
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perhaps, another clue.
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The area had been settled for centuries,
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before European explorers
arrived in the 16th century,
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but the modern town was little known.
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And this made it, in 1900, the
ideal spot for two brothers
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looking for a secluded place,
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for some experiments into flight.
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This was the Wright
brothers, Orville and Wilbur,
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who declared that the area
around Kitty Hawk was perfect.
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It had, they said, privacy,
steady winds, and wide open
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non-vegetated spaces.
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And it was here, at Kill Devils
Hills, that the two brothers
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became the first men in history
to achieve powered flight.
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Their invention is considered
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one of mankind's greatest achievements.
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Today their accomplishment is
marked by this 18 meter high
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granite monument, the Wright
Brothers National Memorial.
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At the top of the tower,
like a lighthouse,
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is a marine beacon.
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Nearby, the precise location
of the brother's first four
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flights are marked by
large standing stones.
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On December 17th, 1903,
after three years of gliding
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experiments, the brothers made
four flights, traveling 37,
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53, 61, and finally, 260 meters.
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Remarkably, all but the
longest of these distances
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are less than the wingspan
of a modern jumbo jet.
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Visitors could also see
reconstructions of the brothers'
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1903 living quarters
and, the world's first,
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airplane hangar, next door.
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Based on historical photographs,
these give a glimpse
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into the building which
once sheltered their plane,
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which they named "The Flyer".
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The brothers' great
breakthrough was their invention
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of three axis control, which
enabled the pilot to steer
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the aircraft effectively and
to maintain it's balance.
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This method became, and
remains, standard on fixed wing
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aircraft of all kinds.
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The moment of the first flight is captured
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in Stephen Smith's full
scale bronze sculpture
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called "First Flight".
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It was unveiled in 2003, marking 100 years
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of powered flight.
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The sculpture shows the
seven people involved,
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including Orville
Wright, flying the plane,
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Wilbur running beside
him, and John T. Daniels
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who photographed the instant
that travel changed forever.
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The original airplane can be
seen at the Smithsonian Museum,
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in Washington, DC.
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As the evening draws in, we
catch a spectacular sunset
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over Albemarle Sound.
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(soft music)
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With evening upon us and
the light fading fast,
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it's time to refuel and stop for the night
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at Deer County Regional Airport.
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(airplane propeller sounds)
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On a stretch of the Outer
Banks, named Nags Head,
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is Jockey's Ridge State Park.
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(soft music)
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This is the tallest
natural sand dune system,
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in the eastern United
States, and one of the most
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significant natural
landmarks in North Carolina.
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(soft music)
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Visitors can explore a
museum about the sand dunes,
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but the brave can take
lessons at the onsite
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hang gliding school.
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As the Wright Brothers agreed,
it's also a world class spot
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for flying kites.
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We move on, heading towards
they mysterious Roanoke Island.
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(upbeat music)
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And, in the island's Festival
Park, find this historic
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16th century sailing ship.
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Named the Elizabeth II, it's
a replica of one of the seven
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ships in Sir Walter Raleigh's fleet.
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It was built in 1984 to
celebrate the 400th anniversary
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of the arrival of English ships
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to the North Carolina Outer Banks.
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(soft banjo music)
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The ship, which is fully
working, has three square rigged
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masts, it's 21 meters
long, five meters wide,
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and draws two and a half meters of water.
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It was aboard ships, such
as this, that 117 colonists
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arrived to found Roanoke colony.
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The year was 1587.
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They founded the colony in, what is now,
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the Fort Raleigh National Historic Site.
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After a few months, the
colony's governor, John White,
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decided to sail back to
England for supplies.
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When he returned, two years later,
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he found the settlement deserted,
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the entire colony vanished.
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The only clue was a
single word 'Croatoan',
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the name of a nearby island,
carved into a wooden post.
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The fate of the 117 colonists
has never been discovered.
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The nearby Elizabeth Gardens were created
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as a memorial to them.
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The gardens are home to hundreds
of species of native plants
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and wildlife, as well as rare specimens
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from all over the world.
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The Roanoke Colony is also celebrated
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at the waterside theater.
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Since 1937, this has
been home to a live show
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by Pulitzer prize winning
playwright Paul Green.
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His production, "The Lost
Colony", requires a company
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of over a hundred actors,
dancers, singers, and technicians.
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It was originally planned to
run for just a single season,
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but it has become a North
Carolina tradition that, today,
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has played to over four million visitors.
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Across the sound, on the Outer Banks,
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is Bodie Island Lighthouse.
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Standing 48 meters tall,
it has a Fresnel lens
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and an electric lamp.
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The first was in 1847, by
a former customs official,
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who neglected to include
any proper foundations.
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The lighthouse began to lean
and was quickly abandoned.
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The second, built in 1859,
was blown up in the Civil War
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by retreating Confederacy soldiers.
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Current lighthouse was completed in 1862
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and, today, it's open to visitors.
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The original light keeper's
house, renovated in 1992,
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now serves as an information center.
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(soft music)
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The many lighthouses of the
Outer banks have been built
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because of the treacherous
waters that lie about it.
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00:14:06,495 --> 00:14:10,495
(soft music and waves breaking)
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00:14:11,710 --> 00:14:14,967
It's known as the
'Graveyard of the Atlantic'.
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00:14:16,160 --> 00:14:19,102
Shipwrecks, such as
these isolated sections,
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litter the sea bed in the area.
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There are believed to have
been more than 5,000 ships
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lost in these waters since records began,
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in the late 17th century.
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Today, visitors can
explore this macabre past
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in the Graveyard of the Atlantic Museum
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at nearby Hatteras island.
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Though this coastline might
not be great for ships,
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they're ideal for fish,
and the Outer Banks
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is a perfect spot for surf fishing.
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Each fisherman here can catch
anything from dog sharks
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to black drum, baiting mullet to bluefish.
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00:15:06,404 --> 00:15:10,404
(soft music and waves crashing)
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Our journey continues south
towards Cape Hatteras.
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00:15:17,810 --> 00:15:21,396
This is the most southeasterly
point on the Atlantic coast
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00:15:21,396 --> 00:15:26,396
of North America and, these
seaside houses are often
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00:15:26,495 --> 00:15:30,430
in danger as this region is
considered one of the highest
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risk areas along the
American eastern seaboard
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for hurricanes and tropical storms.
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Cape Hatteras is home to a lighthouse.
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00:15:42,000 --> 00:15:46,228
In 1999, due to shore erosion,
the lighthouse was at risk
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00:15:46,228 --> 00:15:50,463
of falling into the sea,
so it was shifted, intact,
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800 meters inland.
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At 64 meters tall, weighing
5,000 tons, it's the tallest
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masonry structure ever moved.
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00:16:03,330 --> 00:16:06,300
The name Hatteras is the
sixth oldest surviving
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English place-name in the United States.
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00:16:09,960 --> 00:16:14,960
An inlet north of the cape
was named "Hatrask", in 1585,
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00:16:15,150 --> 00:16:18,063
and later modified to
"Hatteras", which was the name
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00:16:18,063 --> 00:16:20,123
of the local Indian people.
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00:16:22,630 --> 00:16:25,515
Following the coastline, we
come to the village of Hatteras,
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00:16:25,515 --> 00:16:28,535
which has always earned
it's living from the sea,
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00:16:28,535 --> 00:16:32,664
though today it's best known
as a tourist destination
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for charter fishing.
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00:16:36,550 --> 00:16:40,330
But the town still has a small
commercial fishing fleet.
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00:16:40,330 --> 00:16:44,380
Each year the people of
Hatteras celebrate it in a day
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00:16:44,380 --> 00:16:49,010
at the dock when, at sunset,
local fishing boats are sailed,
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00:16:49,010 --> 00:16:51,610
in flotilla, past the waterfront before
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00:16:51,610 --> 00:16:54,304
the cheering Hatteras community.
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(soft piano music)
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For visitors who want the taste
of the sea, but aren't lured
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by fishing, there are
the Ocracoke ferries.
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00:17:12,470 --> 00:17:16,473
The ferry began as a private
tugboat service in the 1920s.
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00:17:20,739 --> 00:17:21,572
In the 1930s, to maintain the
service for the inhabitants
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00:17:23,840 --> 00:17:27,415
of the isolated Ocracoke Island,
the state of North Carolina
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00:17:27,415 --> 00:17:30,387
subsidized the service.
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00:17:30,387 --> 00:17:35,020
And soon, it was free to
passengers, providing reliable
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transport that runs 365 days a year.
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00:17:39,071 --> 00:17:41,654
(upbeat music)
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It's still a favorite with locals,
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but most of it's passengers are tourists,
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taking the 40 minute trip from Hatteras
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to the island of Ocracoke.
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The views from the ferry
are spectacular and,
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for lucky visitors, they can
even see parts of dolphins.
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Dolphins can be found
living along the coast
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of the Outer Banks and in the sounds.
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A small population lives here year round
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and, during the warmer months,
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it's believed that another 500
migrate here to give birth.
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We're now approaching the
entrance to Pamlico Sound,
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129 kilometers long and
48 wide, Pamlico Sound
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is the largest lagoon on
the east coast of America.
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And here we discover a
spectacular site, a swarming flock
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of migrating birds.
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With hundreds of kilometers
of deserted beaches,
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maritime forests, and marsh
lands, the Outer banks
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are a haven for birds.
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00:19:23,210 --> 00:19:25,659
It attracts a whole range
of northern species,
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like the Harlequin duck,
to southern species
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like the roseate spoonbill,
at the cinnamon teal
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from the west, to wading birds
like ruffs, from Eurasia.
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Pamlico Sound can also attract
more disconcerting visitors.
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In 2015, a one ton, four
meter long great white shark,
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called surprisingly 'Catherine',
swam into these in shore
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waters close to a number of tourist sites.
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It spent 18 hours in the
sound, before slipping back
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out into the sea.
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We now reach, one of the oldest towns
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in North Carolina, New Bern.
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The settlers who founded New
Bern came from Switzerland
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and the town is named in honor
of the Swiss capital, Bern.
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Set between the Trent and Neuse rivers,
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New Bern became a center for shipping and,
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by the 19th century, one of
the largest towns in the state.
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With it's many theaters and old buildings,
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the town was once known as
the 'Athens of the South'
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and visitors today can still
explore museums, galleries,
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and the city hall.
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00:20:58,310 --> 00:21:01,486
The town is famous for another
contribution to American
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culture, this is the
birthplace of Pepsi Cola.
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00:21:07,960 --> 00:21:12,960
Pepsi was invented here, in
1893, by chemist Caleb Bradham.
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00:21:15,320 --> 00:21:19,913
In 1902, he founded Pepsi Cola,
which grew from this modest
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00:21:19,913 --> 00:21:22,672
drugstore to one of the
biggest drinks corporations
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00:21:22,672 --> 00:21:24,253
in the world.
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00:21:28,261 --> 00:21:31,094
(classical music)
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Somewhat more grand is
another New Bern landmark,
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Tryon Palace.
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00:21:37,809 --> 00:21:40,642
(classical music)
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00:21:43,230 --> 00:21:47,040
It was built in 1770, before
American independence,
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00:21:47,040 --> 00:21:49,253
when the country was
still a British colony.
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00:21:50,460 --> 00:21:53,159
The Royal Governor, William
Tryon, brought a London
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00:21:53,159 --> 00:21:55,593
architect to design and build this palace
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00:21:55,593 --> 00:21:58,003
in the English Georgian style.
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00:21:59,750 --> 00:22:02,225
After the revolution, the
palace was North Carolina's
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00:22:02,225 --> 00:22:04,533
first state capital.
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00:22:05,640 --> 00:22:09,193
In 1798, it was burned to the ground.
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00:22:10,840 --> 00:22:14,834
But, in 1959, after a 30
year campaign by the people
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00:22:14,834 --> 00:22:18,583
of New Bern, the palace was reconstructed.
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00:22:23,760 --> 00:22:27,528
It has 25 hectares of
gardens, including formal wall
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00:22:27,528 --> 00:22:31,063
gardens, in the Victorian
style, for flowers
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00:22:31,063 --> 00:22:32,663
as well as vegetables.
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00:22:34,400 --> 00:22:36,825
There's also an 18th
century wilderness garden
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00:22:36,825 --> 00:22:39,881
with the native plants
English settlers discovered
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00:22:39,881 --> 00:22:42,760
when they first arrived in America.
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00:22:42,760 --> 00:22:45,593
(classical music)
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00:22:50,620 --> 00:22:54,440
On the outskirts of New Bern
are plants of a different type,
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00:22:54,440 --> 00:22:59,063
agriculture is a huge
industry in North Carolina.
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00:22:59,063 --> 00:23:01,646
(folksy music)
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00:23:08,491 --> 00:23:11,246
It contributes almost 18
billion dollars a year
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00:23:11,246 --> 00:23:13,163
to the state's economy,
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00:23:14,920 --> 00:23:17,198
and employs almost one in every five
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00:23:17,198 --> 00:23:20,380
of North Carolina's workforce.
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00:23:20,380 --> 00:23:22,940
And the farms are some
of the most diversified
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00:23:22,940 --> 00:23:23,853
in the country.
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00:23:27,230 --> 00:23:31,180
The state grows over 80
different commodities
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00:23:31,180 --> 00:23:34,250
and is the national leader
in the production of crops,
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00:23:34,250 --> 00:23:36,591
from sweet potatoes to Christmas trees
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00:23:36,591 --> 00:23:40,054
and from tobacco to turkeys.
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00:23:40,054 --> 00:23:42,721
(country music)
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00:23:45,030 --> 00:23:47,220
But perhaps the most influential crop,
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00:23:47,220 --> 00:23:49,653
in North Carolina's history, is cotton.
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00:23:51,070 --> 00:23:53,830
In the 19th century, along
with much of the rest
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00:23:53,830 --> 00:23:57,533
of the American South, it was
the state's biggest cash crop.
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00:23:58,700 --> 00:24:02,680
Harvesting this cotton though,
meant back breaking labor
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00:24:02,680 --> 00:24:05,150
and the cotton fields of North Carolina
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00:24:05,150 --> 00:24:07,413
were once picked by slaves.
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00:24:09,090 --> 00:24:13,567
Before it's abolition in
1865, there were over 330,000
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00:24:13,567 --> 00:24:18,567
slaves in the state, a third
of North Carolina's population.
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00:24:20,470 --> 00:24:24,443
Today, mercifully, this
cotton is not picked by hand.
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00:24:25,380 --> 00:24:29,810
This is a spindle picker, a
machine that uses rotating
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00:24:29,810 --> 00:24:33,290
spindles to pluck seed
cotton from the plant,
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00:24:33,290 --> 00:24:35,563
it's then blown up into the basket.
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00:24:37,320 --> 00:24:40,595
Once the basket is full, the
picker dumps the seed cotton
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00:24:40,595 --> 00:24:44,465
into a module builder, which
creates a compact brick
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00:24:44,465 --> 00:24:49,465
of seed cotton, weighing in at
approximately 220 kilograms.
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00:24:50,270 --> 00:24:53,481
Meaning that, today, the growing
of cotton is a productive,
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00:24:53,481 --> 00:24:57,463
and now civilized, part of
North Carolina's economy.
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00:24:59,890 --> 00:25:02,900
The first picking machines
were only capable of harvesting
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00:25:02,900 --> 00:25:07,593
one row of cotton at a time,
but became practical in 1944.
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00:25:08,880 --> 00:25:12,250
As we can see, the current
cotton picker can harvest
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00:25:12,250 --> 00:25:14,023
six rows at a time.
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00:25:16,110 --> 00:25:20,090
And, as we look at this
remarkable and fascinating machine
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00:25:20,090 --> 00:25:22,950
in action in the North Carolina landscape,
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00:25:22,950 --> 00:25:25,723
it's the perfect place
to end this journey.
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00:25:32,597 --> 00:25:35,347
(dramatic music)
29093
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