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(air wooshing)
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(energetic sweeping music)
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(energetic sweeping music)
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- Our journey begins in
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the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France,
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alongside an historic canal in
the heart of Cathar country.
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Moving East, it's on
to the Languedoc Coast
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with its sun-drenched beaches
and medieval villages.
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We travel along the shore
of the Mediterranean to find
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a wall city of Aigues-Mortes,
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where members of the Knights
Templar were imprisoned
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in a tower in the 14th Century.
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It's then on to Montpellier for a view
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of one of the city's most
remarkable landmarks,
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the Esplanade de l'Europe.
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In the Massif Central region,
we visit the Millau Viaduct,
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the world's tallest and
surely most elegant bridge.
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From the stupendous cliffs
of the Gorges du Tarn
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we come upon isolated towns
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nestled in the Savoy Mountains.
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To end our journey, on top
of one of the region's iconic
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but extinct volcanoes.
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In the Languedoc-Roussillon
region of Southern France,
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we find the Canal du Midi
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which joins the Atlantic Ocean
and the Mediterranean Sea
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through a system of 99 locks.
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Upon its completion in 1681,
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it was considered a
remarkable feat of engineering
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and became an important tool
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for trading wheat, wine and textiles.
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Today, it's a beloved
waterway for tourists
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and boating enthusiasts who
dock in picturesque villages
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like Homps to sample local
wine and walk medieval streets.
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800 years ago, this was
the land of the Cathars,
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a religious sect that denounced
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many basic tenants of the Catholic Church.
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Pope Innocent III declared a crusade
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to eradicate the Cathars in 1208
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and the ancestors of many residents here
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in Argens-Minervois were brutalized
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in the Pope's 20 year campaign.
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400 years later, after the Crusade ended,
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the opening of the canal helped to restore
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these canal-side towns
back to their former glory.
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Drifting along the canal in a boat,
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there are few reminders
of that tragic past.
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As one of the country's oldest canals,
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the waterway requires
a great deal of upkeep.
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42,000 diseased plane trees
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are being removed from its banks.
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While the trees are due to be replaced,
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the famed view along the
canal will not be the same
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for many years to come.
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(upbeat music)
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Change isn't always easy for a region
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with such historic roots,
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especially when it comes to wine making.
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France has dominated the
industry for centuries
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but its wineries have
been forced to compete
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with vineyards in California,
Australia and South America.
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The Languedoc Region,
which produces one third
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of the country's wine has had to forge
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a new approach to wine making,
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balancing artisan traditions
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with the demands of the global market.
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(relaxed guitar music)
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We leave the canal to join
the lovely river Aude,
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flowing 224 kilometers
from the Pyrenees mountains
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to the Mediterranean Sea.
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On either side, vineyards spread out
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across the flat landscape
as we approach the coast.
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(relaxed guitar music)
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Near the small town of
Les Cabanes de Fleury,
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the river flows into the Mediterranean,
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a body of water that
has always evoked images
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of beauty and romance.
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(soft guitar music)
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Once an important route for merchants
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and travelers of ancient times, and today,
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a destination for holiday
makers looking for the sun.
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In Valras-Plage, tourists crowd
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the nearly unbroken strip of
sand along the Languedoc Coast,
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where the French government's
redevelopment program
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has proven to be a flying success.
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(relaxed guitar music)
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Before there were resorts,
this area of France
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was made up of sleepy fishing villages.
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Although the county boasts
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plenty of coastline and excellent ports,
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fishing makes up only a
small part of its economy
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but boats like this provide
sought after seafood
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to restaurants along the coast,
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including sea bass, tuna and sardines.
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The cuisine of Southern France
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has a very distinct gastronomy
compared to the North.
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It's unrivaled climate and location
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brings a bounty of fish, fresh vegetables,
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meats and fruits throughout the year.
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(relaxed guitar music)
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This small volcanic island
is the site of Fort Brescou
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and a sturdy lighthouse
just off the coast.
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The fort was built in 1586
for defensive purposes
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but was used for many years as a prison.
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Rebuilt in the late 17th Century,
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the fort has played a significant
role in many conflicts
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including World War II.
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Back on the mainland, is Cap D'Agde,
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where modernism and
naturism meld to create
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one of Europe's more interesting
resorts, Cap Naturalist.
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Clothing is optional in
this part of the Cape
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and it's mostly naked numbers
grows to 40,000 in the summer.
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Before development began in the 1970s,
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small weekend houses dotted
the salt marsh landscape.
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Today, it's one of the
largest leisure ports
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on the French Mediterranean.
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A few miles inland is the
old Venetian town of Agde.
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The original settlement
beside the river Herault.
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Up until the 18th Century, it
was one of the most important
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maritime posts of Gaul
and later of France.
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(relaxed guitar music)
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Founded in the fifth century,
its maze of narrow streets
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are flanked by houses built from ash,
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quarried from the nearby
volcanic Mont Saint-Loup.
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Moving east along the
coast, this thin peninsula.
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It's easy to see why
this beautiful landscape
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was once the home of the troubadours,
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a school of French poets that flourished
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from the 11th to the 13th Century.
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Their elaborate love poems,
written in the Occitan language
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gave rise to the development
of modern Western literature.
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The pastoral spirit and the
rustic passion of the region
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has served as the inspiration
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for many other writers throughout history
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and for painters too,
like Van Gogh, who said
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he came here because he wished
to see a different light.
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Just as poetic is the busy Port of Sete,
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where a network of canals joins
in the middle of the town,
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imbuing it with a sense
of vibrancy and purpose.
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(seagulls cawing)
(soft piano music)
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It was built in the 17th
century to boost maritime trade
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and was one of the Mediterranean's
first fishing ports.
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(soft piano music)
(seagulls cawing)
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With the sea at its front door
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and the Thau Lagoon at its backdoor,
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the oysters, mussels and fish
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keep this enchanting port busy.
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(soft piano music)
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A series of etang or lagoons
just northeast of Sete
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teem with plant and animal life,
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hosting a variety of fish
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and hundreds of species of
birds, including flamingos.
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They come for the brine
shrimp and blue green algae,
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a diet that renders them pink.
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The Canal du Rhone is watery highway
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connecting the Etang de
Thau to the Rhone River.
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It also connects with the Canal du Midi.
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(relaxed guitar music)
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Taming this landscape has always been part
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of the region's history.
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Water and land have been flooded, dredged,
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channeled and cultivated
over many centuries.
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(relaxed guitar music)
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Our next stop is the vintage Grande-Mott,
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the oldest of the resorts along the coast
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and a world unto itself.
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It was built in the 1960s with a purpose
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to transform the less developed
but sun-drenched beaches
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of the Languedoc coastline.
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Love it or hate it, it's an icon.
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Its design was conceived by Jean Balladur
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to resemble Mayan pyramids
springing up from the jungle.
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With 30 tennis courts, a sailing school
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and several swimming pools,
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there is plenty to keep its millions
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of annual visitors busy.
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The massive redevelopment
of these coastal areas
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is often a sore point for
residents of the province,
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adding to centuries old tensions
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between the country's North and South.
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In a region with a long
history of invaders
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from the Gauls to the Nazis,
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the Occitan's medieval
settlers of this region
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have worked hard to
maintain a sense of identity
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and to preserve their endangered language,
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which was repressed after
the French Revolution.
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But despite the influx of tourists,
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Languedoc has retained
its old world charm,
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with less of the blight found in Spain
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and other parts of France that came of age
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in earlier decades.
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In rather sharp contrast
to the Grande-Mott,
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Aigues-Mortes carries
a torch for old charm.
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(relaxed music)
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Built on the flat marshes of the Camargue
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and encircled by high stone walls,
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the town was established in the
mid-13th Century by Louis IX
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to give the French Crown
a Mediterranean port
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under its direct control.
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Inside the walls, you'll
find six substantial towers,
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including the famed
Constance Tower and 10 gates,
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all protecting a fascinating
religious heritage.
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It's a place that summons
images of medieval knights.
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At the beginning of the 14th Century,
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some of the Knights Templar
were incarcerated here
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after the sudden
dissolution of their Order.
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They were tried, found
guilty and held prisoner
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in the Tower of Constance.
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Legend holds that a Roman
engineer called Peccius
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was the first to organize
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the salt production
efforts in the Camargue.
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(soft orchestral music)
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These natural salt marshes
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have a higher than normal salt content
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and nearly 500,000 tons
are collected annually.
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(soft orchestral music)
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As a result of these
marshes being harvested
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for well over a thousand years,
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there is a greater preservation
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of these indigenous wetlands.
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(soft orchestral music)
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We now leave the coast behind
and travel north and inland
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to the Montpellier-Mediterranee
Airport to refuel,
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keeping out of the way of a
live aircraft coming in to land.
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The airport serves well over
a million travelers annually,
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a percentage of the 84 million tourists
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who visit France each year.
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(helicopter whirring)
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Refueled, we head off down the
runway towards Montpellier,
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the capital city of the Languedoc Region
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and the eighth largest city in France.
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(upbeat piano music)
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Unusually, Montpellier
is one of the few cities
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without any Roman heritage
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and its history only truly
begins in the 12th Century.
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Its dominant feature is a vast,
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semi-circular neoclassical building
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that contains homes,
shops and restaurants.
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The Esplanade de l'Europe
and the surrounding district
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00:14:42,260 --> 00:14:45,530
were created as part of an
urban regeneration project
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in the late 1970s and designed
241
00:14:48,270 --> 00:14:51,403
by the Catalan architect, Ricardo Bofill.
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00:14:52,290 --> 00:14:54,020
Although modern in appearance,
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Roman and Greek classical
design influences can be seen,
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particularly in the use of large columns.
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Leaving the city behind,
we head further inland
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towards the mountainous
region of the Massif Central.
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It's also an area with few airfields
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00:15:20,540 --> 00:15:25,040
so it is prudent to top up
with fuel whenever possible.
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As we drop down towards the airstrip,
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00:15:27,140 --> 00:15:29,913
we see evidence of the
country's farming in action.
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France has been one of Europe's
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00:15:32,470 --> 00:15:35,913
most dominant agricultural
centers for centuries.
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Over this hill is the
valley of the River Thames
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and crossing it is the spectacular
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and dramatic cable-stayed Millau Viaduct.
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(upbeat guitar music)
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00:15:56,490 --> 00:15:58,180
Considered one of the greatest
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engineering feats of all time,
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the bridge beautifully expresses
the unique relationship
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00:16:04,270 --> 00:16:07,830
between technology,
function and landscape.
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(upbeat guitar music)
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The Viaduct opened in 2004
and set several records.
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It incorporates the
world's highest pylons,
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the highest mast and highest road deck.
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00:16:26,410 --> 00:16:29,440
It also supersedes the Eiffel Tower
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as the tallest structure in France,
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standing 270 meters above the
river at its highest point.
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It's purpose is to provide
a direct high speed route
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from Paris to the Mediterranean Coast,
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easing horrendous holiday
congestion in the valley
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and in the tranquil town of Millau.
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It was designed by the
French structural engineer,
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Michel Virlogeux and famed
British architect, Norman Foster.
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The bridge is a great
source of pride to France
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as it has served to capture
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some of the country's
architectural grandeur.
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Construction began in October of 2001
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and took just three years to complete.
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Impressive for such a
large, complicated project.
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The challenge of design
was creating a structure
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that fitted into the landscape
with a sense of elegance.
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Ultra modern materials give
drivers crossing the bridge
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00:17:30,500 --> 00:17:33,034
the feeling of flying over the valley.
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(upbeat guitar music)
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It is indeed a ribbon through the clouds
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and a true work of art.
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(upbeat guitar music)
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Not far from the bridge is the gateway
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to the spectacular Gorges du Tarn.
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A network of narrow, plunging canyons,
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nearly 500 meters deep
and 1500 meters wide,
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towering over the River
Thames for 50 kilometers.
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It's been called the
Grand Canyon of France.
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(relaxed guitar music)
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A natural paradise of steep cliffs,
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feathery pines and pink caves,
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it's a place of escape from the country's
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busy cities and coastlines.
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(relaxed guitar music)
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Evidence of more populous
times can be seen
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in the abandoned houses and old terraces
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dotted throughout the canyons,
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still clinging to the limestone cliffs.
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Guarding the entrance
to the Gorges du Tarn
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is the vertigo-inducing
Chateau de Peyrelade,
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a ruined castle whose name translates
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to Wide Rock in the Occitan language.
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Its existence dates to
at least the 12th Century
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so its seen its fair share of strife.
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Today, it's open to
visitors who, from the top,
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get a superb view of the valley.
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The route de The Gorges du Tarn
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was one of the first motoring
routes to be built in France.
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Today it still winds its way
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through the town of Mostuejouls,
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the site of the route's
first tourist hotel,
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the grand Hotel de la Muse.
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We are now approaching
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the most dramatic section of the gorge.
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It was formed by the once volcanic uplands
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of the Massif Central.
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Geologically, they are
the oldest part of France
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and culturally one that is
most firmly rooted in the past.
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Industry and tourism have
not quite taken root here.
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Local people are a reserved
lot and continue to maintain
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a strong sense of regional identity.
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(soft music)
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Many of France's greatest rivers
rise in the Massif Central
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but it's the Lot and
the Thames that create
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the distinctive
characteristics of this region,
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defining the shapes of
the limestone plateau
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with their outstanding gorges.
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These kayakers are enjoying a landscape
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which was created 23 million years ago
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when intense volcanic activity produced
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this dramatic and beautiful scenery.
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(soft music)
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The gorge is a popular
place for vultures too,
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which glide in on the thermals
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rising up from the warm valley floor.
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(soft music)
(vulture squawking)
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Further along the gorge
and following the Thames,
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adventurous hikers are
charmed by river and cliff,
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descending down old sheep
paths in pursuit of discovery
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as Robert Louis Stevenson once did
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before pirate tales made him famous.
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Hoping to forget a lost
love, the young Stevenson
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traversed 120 miles
through this region in 1878
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with a stubborn donkey.
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He later wrote, "Travels with
a Donkey in the Cevennes."
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It's still a travel classic.
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(soft music)
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Although he was known
to be quite sociable,
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00:21:56,700 --> 00:22:01,077
he preferred to walk
alone, save for his donkey.
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00:22:01,077 --> 00:22:04,623
"You must have your own
pace," he later wrote.
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Today, the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail
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00:22:08,580 --> 00:22:12,420
is followed by hikers hoping
to tread in his footsteps
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and call forth his muse.
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Of his haphazard journey, he said,
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"I travel not to go anywhere but to go.
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00:22:23,977 --> 00:22:26,463
"I travel for travel's sake."
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(soft music)
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Modern day travelers can stay
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in a number of hotels in the gorge
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including the Chateau de la Caze
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00:22:38,440 --> 00:22:42,233
which has a history stretching
back to the 15th Century.
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00:22:43,400 --> 00:22:46,190
It was a prison during
the French Revolution
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and became a hotel in 1988.
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The old stone bridge at Quezac represents
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00:22:55,070 --> 00:22:58,053
the Northeastern end of the Gorge du Tarn.
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(soft music)
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Further north on our journey,
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we find the village of La Piguiere.
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It's a bit hard to reach but
tourists don't seem to mind
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because 700,000 people a
year flock to the town,
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00:23:20,250 --> 00:23:22,370
mainly those passing by
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00:23:22,370 --> 00:23:25,400
on the Santiago de
Compostela pilgrimage route
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00:23:25,400 --> 00:23:29,333
that starts in France and
ends in Northwest Spain.
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Perched high on a rocky
pinnacle is the 10th Century,
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00:23:33,600 --> 00:23:37,390
St. Michel d'Aiguilhe Chapel,
where pilgrims are blessed
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00:23:37,390 --> 00:23:39,862
before they continue on their journey.
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(soft orchestral music)
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A few miles west is this
impenetrable fortress,
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00:23:49,020 --> 00:23:52,090
sitting on top of a large basalt rock.
385
00:23:52,090 --> 00:23:56,340
It once belonged to the
illustrious de Polignac family
386
00:23:56,340 --> 00:24:00,299
and has seen a turbulent
history since medieval times.
387
00:24:00,299 --> 00:24:03,500
(soft choral music)
388
00:24:03,500 --> 00:24:07,180
Today it is but a shadow
of its former glory
389
00:24:07,180 --> 00:24:10,906
but its tall keep still
dominates the landscape.
390
00:24:10,906 --> 00:24:13,906
(soft choral music)
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00:24:16,510 --> 00:24:19,120
As we continue north, it's hard to believe
392
00:24:19,120 --> 00:24:21,580
that such a peaceful landscape was once
393
00:24:21,580 --> 00:24:25,273
one of the most active volcanic
areas in Western Europe.
394
00:24:27,260 --> 00:24:32,170
Volcanism began in the Massif
Central millions of years ago
395
00:24:32,170 --> 00:24:34,993
before there were castles or canals.
396
00:24:36,090 --> 00:24:39,170
In a country inhabited
for thousands of years,
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00:24:39,170 --> 00:24:40,450
there is little left
398
00:24:40,450 --> 00:24:43,333
that hasn't been touched by human hands,
399
00:24:44,190 --> 00:24:46,240
except for here, perhaps.
400
00:24:46,240 --> 00:24:49,130
In this 40 kilometer seam of volcanoes
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00:24:49,130 --> 00:24:51,113
called the Chaine des Puys.
402
00:24:52,690 --> 00:24:55,690
This is the land of fire and brimstone
403
00:24:55,690 --> 00:24:58,000
but the volcanoes here have been taking
404
00:24:58,000 --> 00:25:00,612
a 6,000 year long nap.
405
00:25:00,612 --> 00:25:03,730
(dramatic music)
406
00:25:03,730 --> 00:25:06,040
One of the youngest volcanoes in the chain
407
00:25:06,040 --> 00:25:08,083
is the iconic Puy de Dome.
408
00:25:09,440 --> 00:25:11,030
In pre-Christian times,
409
00:25:11,030 --> 00:25:14,160
it was a place for spiritual ceremonies
410
00:25:14,160 --> 00:25:18,810
and the Romans built a temple
dedicated to the God, Mercury.
411
00:25:18,810 --> 00:25:22,930
Today, it finds a purpose by
hosting adventurous travelers
412
00:25:22,930 --> 00:25:27,883
who climb to its top for the
spectacular 360 degree view,
413
00:25:30,300 --> 00:25:33,013
the perfect place to end this journey.
414
00:25:37,166 --> 00:25:40,916
(energetic orchestral music)
32981
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