Original subtitles

(wind blowing)

(bright upbeat music)

- Our journey begins at Classiebawn Castle

in Mullaghmore, a place of wild costal beauty

but with a tragic tale of a royal assassination.

We then head to the formidable Ben Bulben Mountain,

and the final resting place of the great poet,

William Butler Yeats.

In the Bricklieve Mountains,

we discover a fascinating neolithic site,

Carrowkeel Megalithic Cemetery.

We explore the Basilica at Knock

where an apparition of the Virgin Mary

is said to of appeared before a group of locals.

Near Downpatrick Head, we find the world's oldest

neolithic field systems.

Preserved in peatland, the Ceide Fields.

We then head out to the Aran Islands

where traditional Irish ways of life still thrive.

And, we end our journey exploring

the otherworldly Burren Plateau.

An extraordinary landscape

and one of the best examples of its kind.

Jotting out into the Atlantic Ocean is Mullaghmore Head

and fishing village.

It's a popular beauty spot along Ireland's first

long distance costal trail,

the Wild Atlantic Way.

And, it's at Mullaghmore that we find

the 19th century Classiebawn Castle.

Built by third Viscount Lord Palmerston,

who twice served as the British prime minister.

Tragedy struck here in 1979

during the Northern Ireland Conflict

when a member of the British Royal Family,

Lord Mountbatten was assassinated

while spending his summer here.

Just south of Mulllaghmore,

dominating the skyline is Ben Bulben.

Great glaciers that covered much of Ireland

during the ice age, 320 million years ago

moved across the land and sculpted this mountain

into its distinctive shape.

The mountain was a source of inspiration

for the great Irish poet, William Butler Yeats.

In one of his final poems entitled,

"Under Ben Bulben," he writes,

"Under bare Ben Bulben's head

"In Drumcliff Churchyard Yeats is laid."

This is the heart of what is popularly known

as Yeats' Country.

Where people still flock to explore the landscape

that shaped his poetry.

On his gravestone, his epitaph repeats the conclusion

of his final poem.

"Cast a cold eye on life, on death.

"Horsemen pass by."

We now cross Drumcliffe Bay

to reach the costal town of Sligo.

It's a small but developing town

and the most populated in Ireland's northwest.

There are buildings of architectural merit,

such as Sligo Cathedral,

built in the 19th century

and the only Norman style cathedral in Ireland.

The town also holds sporting events

such as occasional race days at Sligo Race Course.

This was once Saint Columba's lunatic asylum.

And, provided much need employment a century ago.

It's now a hotel and welcomes visitors to Sligo

and the west coast.

Further south is the 14th century Ballymote Castle.

It was built by one of the most powerful nobles in Ireland,

The Red Earl of Ulster.

It has no central keep or tower,

but rather corner ones,

as well as powerful gatehouse.

This was an evolution of medieval castle design.

Over the centuries the west of Ireland

has been largely left unaltered

and is therefore one of the best places in the world

to see ancient history preserved

in its often dramatic landscape.

Overlooking Lough Arrow,

high up in the Bricklieve Mountains,

is a fascinating neolithic site,

Carrowkeel Megalithic Cemetery.

On the hilltops are 14 passage cans.

Great piles of rocks

marking the entrance to passage tombs

more than 5000 years old.

Today, visitors are free to enter

though some are easier to explore than others.

Archeologists could only speculate

what spiritual significance these tombs held

in this landscape for our prehistoric ancestors.

But, their large size, their careful orientation

and dramatic positions suggest

that they were meant to be visible for miles around.

To the south is Strokestown Park.

An elegant Georgian mansion from the 18th century.

And, it's surrounding estate.

It was occupied until 1979

when it was bought by a local company

in a dilapidated state.

They then set about restoring it.

A later Victorian garden has been returned

to its original condition.

The herbaceous border has even been entered

into the Guinness Book of World Records

as the longest in Ireland and Britain.

One tragic story from Strokestown past

concerns the great famine

and the assassination of its owner,

Major Denis Mahon in 1847.

This was in retaliation for his eviction

and forced immigration

of thousands of poor tenants form his estate.

This story and many others

can be found in the Irish National Famine Museum,

which is based in the house.

A few miles away we find a 13th century ruins

of Roscommon Castle.

Built by Anglo-Norman invaders

in the face of Gaelic resistance,

it changed hands numerous times.

Until it was finally destroyed in the mid-17th century

during Oliver Cromwell's conquest of Ireland.

Shortly after this,

a fire worsened its condition still further

and it's now a romantic ruin.

As we make our way westwards

over the lush green landscape

it's easy to see why Ireland is known

as the Emerald Isle.

This is Knock Airport.

And, people from all over the world

come here in their thousands as pilgrims

to visit the Roman Catholic Mary and Shrine.

The airport was built as a result of pressure

by the Priest Monsignor James Horan.

Often referred to as the builder of Knock.

He was also instrumental in building

Knock's Basilica in 1976.

Horan's challenge was to accommodate

the growing number of pilgrims

visiting the village, more than a million each year.

This astonishing attendance can be traced back to 1879,

when 15 locals claimed to have seen an apparition

of the Virgin Mary on the wall of the parish church.

And, the site was transformed into a holy shrine.

The new church was built in anticipation

of the centenary of the apparition,

the swelling presence of pilgrims,

and the arrival of the pope

who then granted the church its basilica status.

It's unusual shape is a modern take on church design.

Impressing its visitors as it stands majestically,

if not a little incongruously,

in the little village of Knock.

As we fly west back towards the coast,

the green Irish landscape, while dotted with trees,

is distinctly lacking in forests.

Ireland actually has the lowest percentage

of forested areas in Europe.

This is Downpatrick Head,

and the dramatic views can't fail to impress.

The cliffs are 38 meters high

and face the full force of the Atlantic Ocean.

The name derives from Saint Patrick,

the Patron Saint of Ireland

who long ago build a church here.

This was once a popular pilgrim destination.

And today, the crowds still gather here

on the last Sunday of July known as Garland Sunday

to hear mass where his church once stood.

Over thousands of years the sea has sculpted

and shaped this rugged landscape.

Sometimes creating little hidden gems

like this nearby waterfall.

A little further west along the coast,

a modern pyramid shaped center

watches over an ancient site.

Behind it is the world's oldest known field system,

from the neolithic period, the Ceide Fields.

It's the largest such site in the world.

And, it provides a fascinating insight

into the way our prehistoric ancestors

transitioned from hunter-gatherers,

into settled agricultural societies.

The discovery of the Ceide Fields

was made in the 1930s,

when a local man noticed piles of rock

as he cut away some peat for fuel.

He saw that the design could not of been haphazard.

The settlement has been preserved

for over 5000 years under a blanket of peat.

Around 16% of Ireland is made up of boggy wetlands.

Ireland's blanket bogs are considered

the most important in Europe

and are a habitat for many animal species and rare plants.

The bog contains layers of peat,

referred to as turf when cut and dried.

Peat has played a crucial role

as a source of fuel in Ireland.

And, continues to do so today.

At this peat deposition site in County Mayo,

450 thousand tons from the construction site

of a nearby gas terminal is being relocated here

on an industrial scale.

The hope is that this peat will eventually regenerate

at this new site.

But, the needs of the modern industrial world,

versus the need to maintain the land and its resources

must be carefully managed.

Some industrial practices are a threat to Ireland's bogs.

And, recent studies have shown

that only around 28% of Ireland's blanket peatland

remains in an intact condition.

Steps have now been put in place

to protect this important habitat and resource.

Close by is this abandoned cottage in its remote setting.

And, is a humbling reminder that life

near the west coast of Ireland

has always been difficult.

As families battled the harsh climate

and depended on the land for survival.

As we head for the coast again over Achill Sound,

Clare Island can be seen just off the coast.

This was once home in the 16th century

to a famous pirate queen, Grace O'Malley.

In the distance we spot an extraordinary site,

Clew Bay archipelago.

It's said that there are 365 of these small islands

one for each day of the year.

The islands are actually drowned drumlins,

little hills shaped by the movement of huge glaciers

during the ice age.

Drumlins are also found inland too.

But, here in Clew Bay,

they're submerged, except for their tops,

creating this extraordinary island effect.

One of these little islands is called, Dornish

and was once owned by Beatle legend, John Lennon.

Where you set up a commune of hippies.

It was later sold by his wife Yoko Ono,

who donated the proceeds to charity.

Although remote, people can live

quite self-sufficiently out here.

And, locals formed a cooperative network

across the islands.

Houses, schools and farms turn Clew Bay

into a successful little community

set in peaceful and stunning surroundings.

Overlooking Clew Bay is the dramatic

Croagh Patrick Mountain.

This is Ireland's holiest mountain

and is repeatedly a pagan pilgrimage site

going back 3000 years.

However, for well over 1000 years

Christian pilgrims have followed in the footstep

of Ireland's patron saint, Saint Patrick

who is said to have fasted at the summit for 40 days.

Saint Patrick was a bishop who came from Britain

and was instrumental in converting Ireland to Christianity

in the fifth century.

Since 1905, weary travelers have been greeted

at the summit by this little chapel.

At the time of construction

foundations were found of a much earlier building,

probably dating back to the days of Saint Patrick.

It's said that from the top of this mountain

he banished all snakes from Ireland

in the now famous legend.

However, all evidence suggests

that post-glacial Ireland never had snakes

and that no serpent has successfully migrated

across the open ocean.

We now cross the picturesque Sheeffry Hills

and this mountain lake, Lough Lugacolliwee.

It's one of the largest lakes in this mountain range,

and a good spot for hikers to stop

and enjoy the views.

We're now entering the county of Galway.

And, on the shore of Pollacapall Lough,

set in an idyllic landscape

we find the fairy tale castle of Kylemore Abbey.

It dates back to the mid-19th century

when a wealthy couple, Mitchel and Margaret Henry

built the castle after falling in love

with the area while on their honeymoon.

During World War One

the estate was transformed into a Benedictine abbey,

where nuns based in Belgium fled the country

and established themselves here at Kylemore.

They ran a school for Catholic girls here,

which closed only as recently as 2010.

However, the nuns are still in residence

and today Kylemore Abbey

is one of the most popular attractions

in the west of Ireland.

Galway Airport offers a chance to refuel

before setting off to visit

the harbor city of Galway itself.

It's an attractive city

straddling, the River Corrib.

And, when the wild Atlantic salmon

battle their way up stream to spawn

they can be viewed from the Salmon Weir Bridge.

In medieval times, Galway was ruled by merchants.

And, being located by the ocean

it became Ireland's main port for international trade

with France and Spain.

Later, in the mid-17th century

it was the last city to fall in Oliver Cromwell's

conquest of Ireland.

Galway's Cathedral, which was only built

as recently as 1965,

is the youngest major stone cathedral in Europe.

Today, Galway is often referred to

as Ireland's cultural heart,

and is host to many festivals and celebrations

throughout the year.

Tracing the coastline along Galway Bay,

the small harbors and coastal villages

illustrate the close relationship

that people in the west of Ireland have with the sea.

(bright music)

Farming too is important to Ireland's economy

and beef and milk are its most important products.

Accounting for around 60%

of the countries total agricultural output.

Out in Galway Bay are the three Aran Islands.

They have had an influence on world literature and arts

disproportionate to their size.

The unusual cultural and physical history of the islands

has made them the object of visits

by a variety of writers and travelers over the years

who then recorded their experiences.

The largest of the three islands

is Inishmore at 31 square kilometer.

It's lined with numerous stone walls

marking field boundaries set on natural limestone pavements,

giving the islands a very distinctive appearance.

And, on a cliff edge is Dunmore,

a prehistoric fort build around 2000 years ago.

Archeologists are not yet sure

what purpose it served

but it probably had some sort of military

or ceremonial use.

(bright music)

The middle island, Inishmaan,

is the least populated of the three Aran Islands.

With around 160 inhabitants living here.

The people speak Irish as their mother tongue

and it's said that this one of the most important locations

for keeping traditional Irish culture alive.

The smallest of the three islands is Inisheer,

and has a population of around 300 people.

It's covered with field walls

creating striking patterns across the island.

It's likely that farming increased here

in the mid-17th century

when mainlanders were pushed further west

during Oliver Cromwell's conquest of Ireland.

And, the settlers soon developed the farms

for self sufficiency.

And building walls were simply

the most efficient way the fields of stone

in preparation for farming.

Surprisingly, for such a small island and population

Inisheer has a good sized private airport.

Which was established in 1970.

Or, their many visitors arrive by boat from the mainland.

Upon arrival a traditional horse and cart

is a fitting way to explore the island

as there are only a limited number of cars here.

Most visitors enjoy the peace and quiet

of walking or cycling.

This lack of many modern conveniences

allows the visitor to get a real taste

of the traditional Irish life and its simpler, slower pace.

(bright music)

On the rocky east coast is Inisheer Lighthouse.

It was built in 1857

to guide ships into Galway Bay.

In 1978 the lighthouse was converted

to what is called unwatched electric

with diesel generators providing power

to drive the original 1913 lamp.

A small standby lantern on the balcony

operates from a battery

if there is a complete electric breakdown.

For added safety there's also an monitoring radio link

between the lighthouse and the attendant's house

two kilometers away.

And, close by is a reminder of just why

safety at sea is so important.

This is the hauntingly beautiful wreck

of the motor vessel Plassey.

In 1960 she was caught in a severe storm in Galway Bay.

Luckily a local rescue team sprang into action

and managed to save the entire crew.

But, the vessel was not so lucky

and she was abandoned, and left to rust.

(bright music)

Our final location is one of the world's best known

cast limestone landscapes, the Burren Plateau

in County Clare.

It began forming 350 million years ago

when Ireland was underwater.

Beneath the surface the limestone sediments

of the forming Burren compressed into layers.

Then in the ice age great glaciers

scrapped across the Irish landscape

eroding the plateau into its rounded shape

and exposing the limestone pavement.

And, leaving behind this spectacular layered

and swirling natural wonder.

(bright upbeat music)

This otherworldly place covering 350 square kilometers

may look harsh but in fact it's the habitat

to a rich diversity of animals and vegetation.

Many of the plants grow in the sheltered moist cracks

of the limestone pavement.

And, species that are rare elsewhere

have found an abundance here.

One distinctive Burren landmark

is the neolithic passage tomb Poulnabrone Dolmen.

It stands alone in a stark field of rocky ground,

a horizontal capstone held up by vertical portal stones.

This ancient monument in the wild Irish landscape

is a microcosm of the sense of mystery and wonder

that Ireland holds for us today.

The Burren is an inspirational highlight

of many travelers' adventures in the west of Ireland

and a perfect place to end this journey.

(bright suspenseful music)

(tense music)