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(majestic music)
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- Our journey begins
in an isolated frontier town,
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00:01:10,000 --> 00:01:14,250
Lost Cabin, before heading
north to Medicine Lodge,
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00:01:14,250 --> 00:01:17,673
among Wyoming's most
important archeological sites.
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It contains rock art by
Native Americans created
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over thousands of years.
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To the east we find
Sheridan and its famous inn,
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once home to wild West
legend Buffalo Bill.
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Traveling south we reach
the town of Buffalo,
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backdrop to some of the wild
West's most celebrated stories.
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Heading east we discover an historic
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Native American hunting
site, the Vore Buffalo Jump,
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before arriving at the magnificent
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and dramatic Devil's Tower,
sacred to Native Americans
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00:01:58,630 --> 00:02:01,633
and the U.S.A.'s first national monument.
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00:02:07,340 --> 00:02:10,530
In the Midwest of America,
in the State of Wyoming,
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is the town of Lost
Cabin, and, at its heart,
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a house known as the Big Teepee.
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Built in 1901, it
belonged to John B. Okie,
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00:02:22,170 --> 00:02:23,343
a local businessman.
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Okie started out as a
poor, working cowboy,
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00:02:29,360 --> 00:02:32,380
but he designed it not to follow the herd.
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Instead of cattle, he raised sheep.
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Sheep farming may never be as romantic,
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but it was certainly more lucrative.
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00:02:43,470 --> 00:02:46,050
Okie's fortune built him this house.
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In its day it was the height of luxury,
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16 rooms, a veranda on three sides,
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and an octagonal tower on the corner.
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00:03:00,300 --> 00:03:03,330
Today the mansion belongs
to an oil and gas company,
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Conoco Phillips, which
operates this nearby facility,
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Lysite Gas Plant.
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00:03:10,910 --> 00:03:13,010
The hills around Lost Cabin are filled
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with natural gas drilling wells,
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some pumping gas from a depth
of over eight kilometers.
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00:03:19,860 --> 00:03:21,460
When it comes out of the ground,
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the gas is mixed with carbon dioxide
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and poisonous chemicals
such as hydrogen sulfide.
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To remove these, the gas is brought
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to sweetening plants like this
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before piped to consumer's
homes as methane.
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(upbeat music)
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After Alaska, Wyoming has
the lowest population density
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of any state in America and vast areas
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of underdeveloped land are crisscrossed by
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over 12,000 kilometers of
dirt track such as this one,
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Norwood Road.
(upbeat music)
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00:04:06,410 --> 00:04:09,880
Norwood Road crosses the
remote county of Washakie
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00:04:09,880 --> 00:04:13,853
and passes Lonetree Ranch,
a traditional cattle spread.
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00:04:15,159 --> 00:04:18,492
(soothing violin music)
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00:04:20,320 --> 00:04:24,603
Wyoming is known, along with
Texas, as the cowboy state.
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00:04:29,040 --> 00:04:32,040
In the 1860s, ranchers realized that
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00:04:32,040 --> 00:04:34,650
with its vast, publicly-owned ranges
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they could graze their
cattle here for free.
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00:04:38,201 --> 00:04:41,534
(soothing violin music)
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00:04:42,390 --> 00:04:45,793
People flocked to Wyoming
in search of a fortune,
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00:04:46,630 --> 00:04:50,170
and it led in 1892 to
one of the old West's
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00:04:50,170 --> 00:04:54,290
greatest showdowns,
the Johnson County War.
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00:04:54,290 --> 00:04:58,010
Established cattle barons
accused immigrant homesteaders
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of rustling their animals,
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so they hired a gang to kill them.
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00:05:02,920 --> 00:05:06,800
In return, the homesteaders
formed a 200 strong posse
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to protect themselves.
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After a deadly shootout, the president
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of the United States
intervened to restore peace.
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00:05:17,680 --> 00:05:21,020
The story has been a
staple of wild West novels,
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films and TV programs.
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At the base of the Big Horn Mountains
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is the town of Ten Sleep.
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Legend has it that the town's name came
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from Native Americans who
sometimes measured distances
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by the number of sleeps needed
on a journey to walk there.
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Many of the residents of Ten Sleep today
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are the descendants of 19th
century cattle ranchers.
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And their traditions live
on in the Ten Sleep Rodeo,
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00:06:01,640 --> 00:06:04,143
famous for its 4th of July festival.
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The town is a favorite with climbers,
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who use it on their way to explore
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the extraordinary landscape
of the surrounding area.
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Just to the north of Ten Sleep
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is this remarkable rock formation.
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Made of sandstone, a sedimentary rock,
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this structure is part of an anti-climb,
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an upwards fold in the
layers of the earth's crust
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that has eroded to form these slopes.
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As well as being good for climbing,
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anti-climbs are considered
the perfect places
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to drill for oil and gas.
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And since the 19th century,
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this area has been surveyed many times,
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finding vast quantities of
coal, gas and carbon fuels.
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The area around Ten Sleep
is rich with fossils.
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Fossilized plants, sea
life and even dinosaurs
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are often found in the area.
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To the north, on the western
slope of the Big Horn Mountains
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in Northern Wyoming is one of the state's
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most important archeological sites,
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Medicine Lodge State Park.
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Deep canyons with green
valleys are overlooked
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by dramatic escarpments.
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However, the site is most famous
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for its Native American rock art.
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(majestic music)
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The area was occupied by
homesteaders over 100 years ago,
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who were aware of these carvings
but largely ignored them.
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It was only later, in 1969,
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that the full archeological
wealth was discovered.
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It includes designs carved into the stone,
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known as petroglyphs and
painted using natural dyes
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00:08:21,290 --> 00:08:23,743
and animal blood known as pictograms.
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On one cliff, art covers the rock face
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for over 200 meters and
shows images of people,
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animals and abstract symbols.
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Excavations of the site
have found evidence
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of human habitation stretching
back over 10,000 years.
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At the end of this shallow, dry canyon
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is a dramatic red escarpment.
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(majestic music)
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Wyoming is known for its red rocks.
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00:09:01,780 --> 00:09:05,490
The color comes from the
natural presence of iron oxide,
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or rust, in the ground.
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These rocky outcrops are an
icon of the American West
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and a favorite backdrop for
tales of cowboys and Indians.
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Heading west we pass
over the town of Greybull
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before reaching the south
Big Horn County Airfield
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for a much needed refuel.
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00:09:31,150 --> 00:09:35,723
Also here is the Museum of
Flight and Aerial Firefighting.
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The museum contains some of
the last remaining examples
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of World War Two bombers
and transport aircraft.
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Many of these were converted by Hawkins
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and Powers Aviation, a local company,
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to fight fires in the
forests around Wyoming.
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The museum is currently seeking donations
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to open a permanent building
and allow year round access.
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To the east we discover Shell Canyon,
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along which winds Highway 14,
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one of the most scenic drives
in the State of Wyoming.
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(majestic music)
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Shell Canyon is named
after the fossil shells
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discovered in the area.
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The canyon was formed
about a million years ago
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when a fault split the bedrock,
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creating a natural channel for the water.
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Over the years the flowing
river cut downwards.
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The canyon walls now expose over two
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and a half billion years
of geological history,
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revealing the granite bedrock
above the earth's molten core.
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It's easy to see why Highway 14 is one
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of the most popular routes.
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And drivers along the road
can pause at rest areas
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to admire the spectacular scenery.
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One of the most popular stopping places is
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by the Shell Canyon Falls.
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This is one of the largest
waterfalls in Wyoming.
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Here, Shell Creek tumbles
more than 36 meters
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down steep granite rocks
into the waters below.
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00:11:43,880 --> 00:11:47,623
We now head northeast into
the Big Horn National Forest.
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Designated as a reserve in 1897,
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it's one of the oldest
protected forests in America.
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00:11:59,294 --> 00:12:02,794
(sweeping majestic music)
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It mainly consists of
pine trees and occupies
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more than four and a half
thousand square kilometers
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and is home to a variety of wildlife,
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including elk, moose and black bears.
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The eastern edge of the
forest is a high escarpment
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overlooking a flat plain
and Sheridan County,
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and its largest city is Sheridan.
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(bright fiddle music)
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It's named after General Philip Sheridan,
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a Union leader in the American Civil War.
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The town boomed when the
railway arrived in 1892.
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Local farmers, miners and merchants
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used the stopping point
to export their goods.
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In the 20 years after
the railway was built,
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the town grew five times in size.
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00:13:01,740 --> 00:13:04,580
But this time Sheridan's
social life centered
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on Main Street and its
bars, brothels, pool halls
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and its most famous
establishment, Sheridan Inn.
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Opened in 1893, it was
said to be the finest hotel
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between Chicago and San Francisco.
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And it soon became the
headquarters for William F. Cody,
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better known as Buffalo Bill.
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From the Sheridan's wide porch,
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Buffalo Bill auditioned
acts for his circus show.
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And many of the wild
West legendary figures
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stayed in the hotel.
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The Sheridan Inn has since
hosted American legends,
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including presidents,
celebrities and famous writers.
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Nearby is Trail End.
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This spectacular mansion
was built by cattleman
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John B. Kendrick.
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He rose from cowboy to company owner
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and later became governor of Wyoming.
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00:14:15,200 --> 00:14:19,030
Built in 1913, Kendrick planned Trail End
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down to the smallest detail.
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Its building materials
were shipped in by railroad
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at great expense.
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Foundations from Montana,
bricks from Kansas,
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00:14:31,080 --> 00:14:33,923
and stained glass windows
from New York City.
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00:14:34,880 --> 00:14:37,750
The house even had an
early vacuum cleaner,
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a pump in the basement
with suction tubes running
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to all three floors of the house.
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In 1970, Trail End was recognized
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in the National Register
of Historic Places,
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and today it's open to visitors.
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00:14:58,020 --> 00:15:01,520
Heading south we come
across a remarkable site,
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the Big Horn Polo Club.
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00:15:06,320 --> 00:15:10,163
Polo has been played in
Wyoming for over 100 years.
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In the 19th century, many
British aristocrats came
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to the state to seek their
fortune, and Oliver Wallop,
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the fifth son of an earl, was one of them.
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He raised cattle and later horses,
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which he supplied to the British army
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00:15:26,260 --> 00:15:28,263
for calvary in the Boer War.
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00:15:30,870 --> 00:15:35,130
Today, polo is still part of
the Big Horn sporting calendar
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and visitors in the
summer can watch matches
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played twice a week.
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00:15:42,400 --> 00:15:45,050
Heading south into Natrona County,
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we find the site of Fort Phil Kearny.
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The fort was built in 1866
to protect the Bozeman Trail
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from raids by Native Americans.
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The trail brought settlers
from the east of America
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to Montana and its gold rush.
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00:16:02,090 --> 00:16:04,690
The arrival of these outsiders was felt
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by Native Americans to be a catastrophe,
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00:16:07,330 --> 00:16:10,880
and they called Fort Kearny the hated post
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00:16:10,880 --> 00:16:12,173
on the little piney.
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00:16:13,400 --> 00:16:15,760
It was here that Captain Fetterman,
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a brash Civil War hero,
was lured into a trap
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set by Native Americans.
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00:16:22,610 --> 00:16:27,033
His entire command, over
80 men, was slaughtered.
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00:16:28,170 --> 00:16:30,590
The Fetterman fight was a great victory
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00:16:30,590 --> 00:16:32,150
for the Native Americans.
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00:16:32,150 --> 00:16:36,263
It changed popular opinion
and led to a peace treaty.
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00:16:42,370 --> 00:16:45,950
Continuing southwards,
smoke can be seen rising
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from the small fires in the
Big Horn National Forest.
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Fires break out here each year
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00:16:52,630 --> 00:16:56,290
and it's often thought they are
caused by lightning strikes.
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00:16:56,290 --> 00:17:00,340
However, as many as 90% of wild land fires
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00:17:00,340 --> 00:17:03,880
in the United States are caused by humans,
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00:17:03,880 --> 00:17:07,640
often as a result from
campfires left unattended,
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00:17:07,640 --> 00:17:10,890
the burning of debris,
discarded cigarettes, and,
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00:17:10,890 --> 00:17:14,250
of course, intentional acts of arson.
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00:17:14,250 --> 00:17:17,663
Only 10% are started by lightning.
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00:17:19,010 --> 00:17:22,670
Big Horn has a number of
fire fighting organizations,
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00:17:22,670 --> 00:17:25,170
but given the forest's vast size,
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00:17:25,170 --> 00:17:27,760
unless they threaten life or property,
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00:17:27,760 --> 00:17:31,603
they are monitored and mostly
left to burn out on their own.
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00:17:34,260 --> 00:17:36,887
We now reach the town of Buffalo.
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00:17:36,887 --> 00:17:39,970
(upbeat banjo music)
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00:17:40,860 --> 00:17:43,510
On the surface, Buffalo
looks like a typical,
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modern American town.
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00:17:45,610 --> 00:17:48,550
Many of its inhabitants
work in agriculture,
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energy production and tourism.
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But Buffalo's past features heavily
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in the stories of the wild West,
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particularly here at the Occidental Hotel.
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00:18:00,804 --> 00:18:04,210
(upbeat banjo music)
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Founded in 1880, it was
a favorite with cowboys.
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00:18:08,610 --> 00:18:11,450
Butch Cassidy and the
Sundance Kid rode here
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00:18:11,450 --> 00:18:14,823
from their hideout nearby,
called Hole in the Wall.
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00:18:15,790 --> 00:18:19,150
Calamity Jane, who
traveled the Bozeman Trail,
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stopped by often.
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The street outside is
thought to be the setting
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00:18:23,752 --> 00:18:27,430
for the first shootout
in wild West literature
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00:18:27,430 --> 00:18:29,557
in the novel "The Virginian."
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00:18:31,920 --> 00:18:35,470
Over the years though, it became rundown.
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It seemed likely it would be demolished.
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But in 1997 it was bought and redeveloped.
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Over the next 10 years it was
restored to its former glory
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00:18:46,770 --> 00:18:51,010
and today it's possible to stay
in the Occidental once more,
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00:18:51,010 --> 00:18:54,600
to drink a glass of
sassafras and rub shoulders
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00:18:54,600 --> 00:18:57,443
with the ghosts of frontier legends.
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00:18:57,443 --> 00:19:00,526
(upbeat banjo music)
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We continue to the east,
passing this arid scenery.
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00:19:06,261 --> 00:19:10,150
Though barren on the surface,
this landscape is rich
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with natural gas, coal and oil.
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00:19:13,840 --> 00:19:16,610
Over the past decade,
the rise of fracking,
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00:19:16,610 --> 00:19:19,900
or hydraulic fracturing, has meant a huge
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economic boom for Wyoming,
but the mineral wealth
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00:19:23,200 --> 00:19:25,810
of Wyoming has long been exploited,
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00:19:25,810 --> 00:19:28,957
such as here at Wyodack Mine.
283
00:19:28,957 --> 00:19:31,707
(majestic music)
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00:19:34,860 --> 00:19:39,159
This vast, open cast
mine was founded in 1923.
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00:19:39,159 --> 00:19:41,909
(majestic music)
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00:19:44,620 --> 00:19:47,410
It's believed to be the
oldest continually operated
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00:19:47,410 --> 00:19:50,123
surface coal mine in the United States.
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00:19:55,720 --> 00:20:00,173
Each year the mine produces
over five million tons of coal.
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00:20:01,260 --> 00:20:03,730
At this rate, it's expected to last
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00:20:03,730 --> 00:20:05,653
for the next 50 years.
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00:20:07,080 --> 00:20:10,200
Some of the coal is shipped
to outside companies,
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00:20:10,200 --> 00:20:12,610
but the majority is sent directly
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00:20:12,610 --> 00:20:14,913
to the nearby Wyodack Power Plant.
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00:20:16,730 --> 00:20:19,630
It was commissioned in 1978.
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00:20:19,630 --> 00:20:22,020
At the time, it was the world's largest
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00:20:22,020 --> 00:20:23,793
air-cooled steam power plant.
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00:20:27,770 --> 00:20:30,270
The coal is transported here by trains
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00:20:30,270 --> 00:20:33,697
of extraordinary length,
sometimes reaching
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00:20:33,697 --> 00:20:36,175
over two and a half kilometers.
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00:20:36,175 --> 00:20:38,925
(majestic music)
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The coal is burned in a water
boiler over 20 stories tall.
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00:20:47,850 --> 00:20:51,170
The steam it produces
is piped to a turbine,
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00:20:51,170 --> 00:20:54,770
where it turns blades
to produce electricity.
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00:20:54,770 --> 00:20:58,130
Once used, the steam is
cooled to form water,
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00:20:58,130 --> 00:21:00,040
which is returned to the boiler
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00:21:00,040 --> 00:21:02,573
to again be heated back into steam.
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00:21:04,174 --> 00:21:08,660
The power plant burns two
million tons of coal each year,
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00:21:08,660 --> 00:21:13,200
generating 335 megawatts of electricity,
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enough to power over 50,000 homes.
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Our journey continues
towards Key Hole Reservoir.
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00:21:25,380 --> 00:21:28,410
This provides water for irrigation, fish
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and wildlife conservation, recreation,
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00:21:31,220 --> 00:21:34,150
and domestic and industrial use.
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00:21:34,150 --> 00:21:37,330
Although located in Wyoming,
the reservoir's waters
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00:21:37,330 --> 00:21:41,223
are mostly used by the
neighboring state of South Dakota.
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00:21:43,390 --> 00:21:47,370
We reach now one of the most
important archeological sites
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of the American plains,
the Vore Buffalo Jump.
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00:21:52,240 --> 00:21:56,010
The Jump is made from a
natural sink hole formed
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00:21:56,010 --> 00:21:57,780
where the soil eroded.
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00:21:57,780 --> 00:22:02,403
This creates a pit about 12
meters deep and 60 meters wide.
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00:22:03,310 --> 00:22:06,320
Native American hunters
would stampede buffalo
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00:22:06,320 --> 00:22:07,760
towards the pit.
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As they reached the edge,
they would be unable to stop.
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00:22:11,490 --> 00:22:14,863
The steep drop would kill
or cripple the animals.
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00:22:15,710 --> 00:22:20,320
It was used for over 300 years
until the early 19th century
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by five or more American tribes.
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00:22:24,200 --> 00:22:27,420
The Jump was rediscovered in the 1970s
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during the building of
the Interstate 90 road.
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00:22:31,350 --> 00:22:34,450
It was excavated by the
University of Wyoming,
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00:22:34,450 --> 00:22:37,820
who estimate that the
pit contains the remains
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of 20,000 buffalo.
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00:22:43,751 --> 00:22:47,800
Finally, on the west
side of the Black Hills,
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we reach one of the
great sites of Wyoming,
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00:22:50,960 --> 00:22:52,093
the Devil's Tower.
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00:22:53,406 --> 00:22:56,156
(majestic music)
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00:23:00,310 --> 00:23:05,187
This outstanding natural rock
formation is 386 meters tall.
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00:23:10,300 --> 00:23:15,130
In 1906, President Roosevelt
declared it a national monument
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00:23:15,130 --> 00:23:16,753
the first in America.
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00:23:18,780 --> 00:23:21,960
The tower is sacred to Native Americans,
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00:23:21,960 --> 00:23:25,430
who also call it the Bear's Lodge.
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00:23:25,430 --> 00:23:28,840
The Lakota tribe say
that the tower was formed
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00:23:28,840 --> 00:23:31,570
when two girls were playing in the woods.
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00:23:31,570 --> 00:23:34,410
They were attacked by an enormous bear
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00:23:34,410 --> 00:23:36,923
and climbed on top of a rock to escape.
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00:23:37,840 --> 00:23:39,860
But it was too small to save them,
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00:23:39,860 --> 00:23:42,700
so they knelt and prayed.
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00:23:42,700 --> 00:23:45,630
Hearing their pleas, the great spirit
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00:23:45,630 --> 00:23:49,783
made the rock rise upwards,
creating the Devil's Tower.
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00:23:51,390 --> 00:23:54,850
In reality, it's actually
the softer material
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00:23:54,850 --> 00:23:58,330
around the rock which has
eroded away over time,
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00:23:58,330 --> 00:24:01,580
and continues to do so,
giving the impression
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00:24:01,580 --> 00:24:03,713
of the tower growing in size.
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00:24:06,100 --> 00:24:07,990
The tower has a visitor center,
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00:24:07,990 --> 00:24:11,423
which welcomes around
400,000 people a year.
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00:24:12,300 --> 00:24:15,480
Here they will learn about
the legends, the geology
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00:24:15,480 --> 00:24:19,963
and the first documented
Caucasian visitors in 1859.
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00:24:21,280 --> 00:24:25,080
It was 16 years later that
Colonel Richard Dodge,
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00:24:25,080 --> 00:24:27,950
who was part of a scientific survey party,
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00:24:27,950 --> 00:24:30,343
coined the name Devil's Tower.
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00:24:31,390 --> 00:24:36,390
And each year about 4,000
visitors come to climb it.
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00:24:36,790 --> 00:24:40,270
The parallel cracks make
it one of the finest places
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00:24:40,270 --> 00:24:43,521
for traditional climbing in North America.
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00:24:43,521 --> 00:24:46,271
(majestic music)
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A few routes are thought
to be relatively easy.
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00:24:54,700 --> 00:24:56,290
Others are considered to be
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00:24:56,290 --> 00:24:58,623
amongst the hardest climbs in the world.
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00:24:59,950 --> 00:25:03,080
The tower is famous also
for its starring role
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00:25:03,080 --> 00:25:06,247
in Steven Spielberg's 1977 film,
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00:25:06,247 --> 00:25:08,957
"Close Encounters of the Third Kind,"
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00:25:09,890 --> 00:25:13,103
where it was the backdrop
for the climactic scenes.
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00:25:14,430 --> 00:25:17,820
The film's release was the
cause of a large increase
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00:25:17,820 --> 00:25:20,523
in visitors and climbers to the monument.
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00:25:23,440 --> 00:25:26,270
This spectacular natural formation,
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00:25:26,270 --> 00:25:29,400
a place of both native and
modern American legend,
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00:25:29,400 --> 00:25:32,343
is the perfect place to end this journey.
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00:25:37,190 --> 00:25:39,940
(majestic music)
30216
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