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(uplifting orchestral music)
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- Our journey
begins at the Seven Sisters,
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a vast set of spectacular chalk cliffs
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on the south coast of England.
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Heading east, we reach Battle,
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the site of one of the
most important events
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in English history, the
Battle of Hastings in 1066.
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Continuing to the north,
we visit Bateman's,
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home to one of England's
greatest poets, Rudyard Kipling.
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Before continuing to the east
where we reach Romney Marsh,
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an other worldly place,
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sometimes called the Fifth Continent.
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Our journey takes us onto Dover,
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one of the world's
busiest passenger ports,
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and a vital link between
Britain and mainland Europe.
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We then follow the coast
north, glimpsing Deal Castle,
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a masterpiece of medieval
military engineering.
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Finally, we reach Canterbury
and its magnificent cathedral.
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00:02:09,620 --> 00:02:11,120
On the south coast of England,
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in the county of East Sussex,
are the Seven Sisters.
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These rolling white cliffs
are part of the South Downs,
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a chalk formation that
stretches 110 kilometers
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across the South of England.
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These white cliffs are an
iconic part of England,
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a symbol of a nation known through history
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as an island fortress.
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(gentle music)
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The chalk was deposited
around 100 million years ago
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when sea levels were higher
and England was under the sea.
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The rock was forced upwards and eroded
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to form these dramatic cliffs.
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The sea continues to wash
away the Seven Sisters.
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Each year they retreat
by around 40 centimeters.
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The Seven Sisters are
designated as an area
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of outstanding natural beauty,
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and since 2011, part of
England's newest national park,
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the South Downs National Park.
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Within the Seven Sisters is the
pebble beach of Birling Gap.
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The sheltered sides of this natural bay
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make it the perfect place
for landing small boats.
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And, for centuries, smuggling.
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The cottages above Birling
Gap once housed the families
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of the customs officials
who kept watch over it.
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Today, Birling Gap is
popular with visitors,
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day trippers, and in quieter
parts of the beach, nudists.
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At the end of the Seven
Sisters is Beachy Head.
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This steep cliff is sadly
notorious for suicides,
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claiming the lives of
about 20 people a year.
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In the sea below is
Beachy Head Lighthouse.
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It's said that a light
has been kept burning here
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since 1670, warning sailors
of the rocky eastern end
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of the South Downs.
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00:04:42,000 --> 00:04:46,970
Begun in 1900, this lighthouse
took two years to build.
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At 43 meters tall, its
construction required a cable car
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from the clifftop to bring down
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over 3,000 tons of Cornish granite.
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Once, the lighthouse was run by a keeper,
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00:05:01,120 --> 00:05:04,520
but in 1983, it was automated.
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00:05:04,520 --> 00:05:06,910
Today, it's monitored remotely
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from a facility hundreds of miles away.
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Close by to the east is the
seaside town of Eastbourne,
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with its famous pier.
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Built in the 19th century,
it is 300 meters long.
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00:05:29,210 --> 00:05:34,210
In 2014, the pier caught fire
and was almost destroyed,
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00:05:34,870 --> 00:05:37,220
but thanks to a local entrepreneur,
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it has been rescued and is
currently being redeveloped.
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We continue on our journey,
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passing through the patchwork fields
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of the East Sussex countryside,
to reach Pevensey Castle.
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These extraordinary ruined castle walls
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were built by the Romans around 290 AD
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to guard the British coast
against Saxon pirates.
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It's 290 meters long and 170 wide,
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the largest surviving Roman fort,
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from this period, in England.
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In 1066, William the
Conqueror used Pevensey
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to rally his troops in
his invasion of England.
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Later, the Normans built
this smaller castle
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within the old Roman walls.
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Nearby, surrounded by magnificent parkland
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and formal gardens, is
Herstmonceux Castle.
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(gentle music)
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The name comes from the marriage
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of a lady called Idonea de Herst
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to a Norman nobleman
called Ingelram de Monceux.
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00:06:58,500 --> 00:07:01,683
The old manor began to be
called the Herst of Monceux,
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a name that eventually
became Herstmonceux.
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Built in the 15th century,
this is one of the oldest
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remaining brick buildings in England.
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Brick was an unusual
material for a castle,
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and the builders perhaps
concentrated more on grandeur
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and comfort than on defense.
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In the 1950s it was home to the
Royal Greenwich Observatory,
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but in 1990, with light pollution growing
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from the nearby town of Eastbourne,
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the observatory moved out.
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It was feared that the
castle would be redeveloped,
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endangering this Elizabethan wall garden
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and the vast castle moat.
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But, today, on the top of the gatehouse,
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alongside the British Union
Jack, flies the Canadian flag.
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In 1994 the developers were defeated
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and the castle became
home to a study center
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for international law students
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at the Queen's University of Canada.
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The castle was a gift to the university
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by the Canadian chemist, Alfred Bader.
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Today, the Bader Center welcomes students
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from around the world to study
in this spectacular building
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and its beautiful surroundings.
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(gentle music)
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Our journey continues,
moving east along the coast
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to reach the historic town of Hastings.
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It was on this stretch of coast
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that William, Duke of
Normandy, landed his army
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and began his conquest of England.
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Before his arrival Hastings
was an important fishing port,
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and today it's still
home to the largest fleet
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of beach launched fishing boats in Europe.
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00:09:14,650 --> 00:09:19,343
Hastings' 280 meter long
pier opened in 1872.
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00:09:21,410 --> 00:09:24,080
Over the years it has held a rifle range,
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a bowling alley, and a
2,000 seater pavilion.
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In the 1980s the pier fell into disuse,
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and in 2008 it was closed.
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But with the help of charitable
donations and a public grant
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the pier is being reconstructed.
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00:09:43,200 --> 00:09:48,200
And in 2016 it opens its
doors once more to the public.
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Perched atop a hill overlooking
the town is Hastings Castle.
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Built in 1070 AD this was one
of the first permanent forts
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constructed by the Normans in Britain.
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Once, Hastings Castle
had a large stone keep,
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dungeons and a church,
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but in 1287 violent storms
undermined the cliffs
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and caused parts of the building,
including the castle keep,
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to fall into the sea below.
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Over the years that followed
the castle was ruined,
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until in the 1530s it was
demolished by Henry VIII
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who built new forts around the coast.
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For centuries the land
was used for farming
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and the castle was forgotten,
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until in 1824 the ruins were excavated
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and opened to the public.
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Today it's a favorite spot for tourists,
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following in the footsteps
of a much earlier visitor,
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William the Conqueror.
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He changed the course of
English history here at Battle.
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It's named after his great
victory, the Battle of Hastings.
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On the 14th of October, 1066, the English,
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led by King Harold, faced
William's army from the ridge
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where the abbey now stands.
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The battle was fierce,
bloody and closely matched.
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But the Norman archers
had powerful crossbows.
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One of their arrows reached King Harold,
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striking him in the eye and killing him.
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Leaderless, the English
were soon defeated.
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William took the throne and
was crowned on Christmas Day.
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He ruled until his death in 1087.
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As penance for the blood shed here,
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William was ordered by the
pope to build Battle Abbey.
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It was not completed
until after his death.
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Legend has it that the abbey
altar is on the exact spot
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that King Harold fell, it
is marked with a plaque.
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Over the years the abbey slowly
fell into a ruinous state.
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Some of the buildings still remain
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and are used today by Battle Abbey School.
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A few miles to the north
is Bateman's house.
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Built in the 17th century Jacobean period
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from local sandstone,
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it was originally for
a wealthy iron maker.
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The roof tiles and 12 chimneys were made
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from local Weald Clay.
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But this most English of
houses went on to become home
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to that most English of
writers, Rudyard Kipling.
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In 1902, Kipling saw the house
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and immediately fell in love with it.
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He wrote later, "Behold us lawful owners
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"of a grey stone lichened
house, AD 1634 over the door.
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"All untouched and unfaked.
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"It is a good and peaceable place.
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00:13:28,257 --> 00:13:31,717
"We have loved it ever since
our first sight of it."
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He lived there until his death in 1936.
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In 1939 his wife gave
Bateman's to The National Trust
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to be opened to the public.
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Today, the rooms are largely
as Kipling left them.
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His Rolls-Royce is still in the garage,
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his Nobel Prize certificate
hangs from the wall,
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and in his book-lined
study can be seen his desk,
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writing tools, paperweight and pipe.
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This is one of the most
spectacular castles
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in Britain; Bodiam.
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00:14:13,190 --> 00:14:17,060
It's been said that anyone
who has ever built sandcastles
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will feel an immediate
affinity with Bodiam.
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00:14:20,590 --> 00:14:24,123
It looks like the work of
a giant bucket and spade.
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00:14:25,300 --> 00:14:28,120
Built in the 14th century,
the castle was the work
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of a knight who had fought in France.
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00:14:31,270 --> 00:14:34,850
Bodiam was intended to defend
against a revenge attack
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from the coast.
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The castle is notable for its symmetry.
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It's an almost perfect square.
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00:14:42,960 --> 00:14:46,820
At each corner stands a
four-story cylindrical tower,
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with rectangular towers
halfway along each wall.
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The moat is an artificial lake,
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created by diverting
the nearby River Rother
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into an area of marshy land.
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00:14:59,530 --> 00:15:02,090
Remarkably, the castle still has
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00:15:02,090 --> 00:15:04,720
its original wooden portcullis,
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the gate that was raised
to allow guests to enter,
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and lowered to hold enemies at bay.
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But during the English Civil
War of the 17th century,
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it was occupied and the interiors gutted.
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00:15:18,890 --> 00:15:21,290
It fell into disrepair before being given
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00:15:21,290 --> 00:15:22,623
to The National Trust.
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00:15:23,630 --> 00:15:26,330
Today, many thousands visit each year
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00:15:26,330 --> 00:15:29,960
to explore this picturesque
knight's castle,
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00:15:29,960 --> 00:15:32,700
and to enjoy its magnificent views
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across the East Sussex countryside.
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This is Romney Marsh, a home to a variety
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of wildlife and birds.
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00:15:45,160 --> 00:15:48,317
The poet, John Betjeman, wrote of it,
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00:15:48,317 --> 00:15:50,847
"Romney Marsh, where the roads wind
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00:15:50,847 --> 00:15:53,097
"like streams through the pasture
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00:15:53,097 --> 00:15:56,917
"and the sky is always three
quarters of the landscape.
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00:15:56,917 --> 00:15:59,677
"The sea has given a
colour to this district.
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00:15:59,677 --> 00:16:03,707
"It has spotted with the
silver oak posts and rails.
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00:16:03,707 --> 00:16:07,807
"It gives the grass and the
rushes a grey, salty look."
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00:16:08,930 --> 00:16:11,500
Close to the natural
beauty of Romney Marsh
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we find a more modern
marvel, the Eurostar.
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This is one of the 44 high-speed trains
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that run on the line,
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00:16:21,220 --> 00:16:24,373
connecting Britain with
Paris and Brussels.
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00:16:25,790 --> 00:16:29,060
The Eurostar carries more
than 10 million passengers
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each year, many arriving here
at the Folkestone terminal.
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00:16:34,940 --> 00:16:37,360
The idea of tunneling under the Channel
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was suggested as early as 1802,
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00:16:40,950 --> 00:16:44,450
but it wasn't for 200 years, in 1988,
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00:16:44,450 --> 00:16:46,850
that construction began.
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00:16:46,850 --> 00:16:50,680
The Eurotunnel opened in 1994.
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00:16:50,680 --> 00:16:52,930
The trains take not only passengers,
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00:16:52,930 --> 00:16:55,640
but on the Eurostar shuttle service,
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00:16:55,640 --> 00:16:57,883
cars, coaches and freight.
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00:16:59,010 --> 00:17:00,690
It's an important trade link
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00:17:00,690 --> 00:17:02,563
between Britain and the continent.
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00:17:05,830 --> 00:17:09,260
The tunnel itself is 50 kilometers long.
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00:17:09,260 --> 00:17:11,990
With 38 kilometers beneath the Channel,
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00:17:11,990 --> 00:17:14,633
it's the longest underwater
tunnel in the world.
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00:17:15,700 --> 00:17:19,730
The trains can run at up
to 300 kilometers an hour,
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00:17:19,730 --> 00:17:23,533
taking just over two hours to
travel from London to Paris.
248
00:17:31,076 --> 00:17:33,080
While the Eurostar symbolizes Britain's
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00:17:33,080 --> 00:17:35,050
closeness to the continent,
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00:17:35,050 --> 00:17:38,543
the White Cliffs of Dover
symbolize her defense.
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00:17:39,560 --> 00:17:43,090
And since the 1990s,
there's a new bit of land
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00:17:43,090 --> 00:17:47,163
beneath the Cliffs, the spoil
from digging the tunnel.
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00:17:51,700 --> 00:17:55,130
The Port of Dover is the
nearest English one to France,
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00:17:55,130 --> 00:17:57,393
just 34 kilometers away.
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00:18:03,080 --> 00:18:05,360
For centuries, this was the main route
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00:18:05,360 --> 00:18:07,940
into and out of England.
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00:18:07,940 --> 00:18:09,920
Since at least the Bronze Age,
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00:18:09,920 --> 00:18:13,463
this port has been used to
trade goods across the Channel.
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00:18:16,660 --> 00:18:19,540
And today, it remains
amongst the world's busiest
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00:18:19,540 --> 00:18:23,220
passenger ports with 16 million travelers,
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00:18:23,220 --> 00:18:26,430
two million lorries,
and three million cars
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00:18:26,430 --> 00:18:28,433
passing through it each year.
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00:18:30,450 --> 00:18:33,210
The port is a stopping point for ferries
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00:18:33,210 --> 00:18:35,400
running to Calais and Dunkirk,
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00:18:35,400 --> 00:18:38,380
and cruise ships, which set out from Dover
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00:18:38,380 --> 00:18:39,853
to explore the world.
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00:18:41,710 --> 00:18:44,733
Overseeing this traffic
is Dover Coastguard,
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00:18:51,279 --> 00:18:53,130
built on an artillery battery,
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00:18:53,130 --> 00:18:56,063
used in both the first
and second World Wars.
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00:18:57,200 --> 00:18:59,440
The control room takes the place
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00:18:59,440 --> 00:19:01,483
of one of the old gun positions.
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00:19:02,970 --> 00:19:06,120
By volume, Britain an island nation,
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00:19:06,120 --> 00:19:11,040
transports about 95% of its trade by sea.
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00:19:11,040 --> 00:19:14,770
Almost all imported goods arrive by ship,
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00:19:14,770 --> 00:19:17,760
and much travels through the Channel,
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00:19:17,760 --> 00:19:21,243
making it one of the
busiest seaways on Earth.
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00:19:22,430 --> 00:19:26,370
In 1972, after a number
of serious collisions,
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00:19:26,370 --> 00:19:30,043
the world's first sea traffic
separation scheme was set up.
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00:19:31,800 --> 00:19:34,070
Vessels traveling to the north must now
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00:19:34,070 --> 00:19:36,700
use the French side of the Channel,
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00:19:36,700 --> 00:19:39,493
while the English lane
is taken to the south.
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00:19:40,850 --> 00:19:42,850
Larger ships register with an
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00:19:42,850 --> 00:19:45,350
automated identification system,
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00:19:45,350 --> 00:19:47,330
giving information to the Coastguard
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00:19:47,330 --> 00:19:50,253
on their course, destination and speed.
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00:19:55,510 --> 00:19:58,030
And criss-crossing this busy shipping lane
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00:19:58,030 --> 00:20:01,163
are all the ferries
running 24 hours a day.
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00:20:02,990 --> 00:20:05,750
Every now and then, and with permission,
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00:20:05,750 --> 00:20:08,633
swimmers also try and cross the Channel.
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00:20:09,670 --> 00:20:12,820
This is an extraordinary
feat of endurance.
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00:20:12,820 --> 00:20:15,490
Only 700 people have accomplished it.
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00:20:15,490 --> 00:20:18,650
The route takes swimmers from
the White Cliffs of Dover
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00:20:18,650 --> 00:20:20,683
to Cap Gris Nez in France.
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00:20:21,580 --> 00:20:25,020
It can take anything
from seven to 27 hours,
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00:20:25,020 --> 00:20:28,493
depending on the weather,
currents, and shipping schedules.
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00:20:30,100 --> 00:20:32,710
Their journey, along with
that of the thousands
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00:20:32,710 --> 00:20:35,300
of ships that pass through the Channel,
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00:20:35,300 --> 00:20:38,133
are watched over by the Dover Coastguard.
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00:20:40,040 --> 00:20:43,693
Above the port is the
spectacular Dover Castle.
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00:20:54,260 --> 00:20:56,280
Known as the Key to England,
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00:20:56,280 --> 00:21:00,040
it has defended the realm
for over nine centuries,
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00:21:00,040 --> 00:21:02,343
making it one of the
oldest forts in Britain.
303
00:21:05,960 --> 00:21:09,340
Close by the castle, next
to the parish church,
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00:21:09,340 --> 00:21:12,203
is the Roman Lighthouse, or Pharos.
305
00:21:13,950 --> 00:21:15,590
From the top of this building,
306
00:21:15,590 --> 00:21:18,920
a fire beacon was once lit each night,
307
00:21:18,920 --> 00:21:21,710
guiding Roman vessels sailing between Gaul
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00:21:21,710 --> 00:21:23,903
and Britannia into the harbor.
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00:21:24,840 --> 00:21:28,430
Despite having served the
nation since the 12th century,
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00:21:28,430 --> 00:21:32,973
Dover Castle only recently
ended its active service.
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00:21:33,930 --> 00:21:36,530
During the Napoleonic
Wars in the 18th century,
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00:21:36,530 --> 00:21:38,680
tunnels were dug beneath the castle
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00:21:38,680 --> 00:21:40,563
to house men and supplies.
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00:21:41,550 --> 00:21:45,720
These were used in both World
Wars as command centers.
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00:21:45,720 --> 00:21:49,280
It was from here in
1940 that the evacuation
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00:21:49,280 --> 00:21:52,833
of French and British soldiers
from Dunkirk was directed.
317
00:21:54,220 --> 00:21:57,010
Later, during the Cold
War, they were planned
318
00:21:57,010 --> 00:21:59,530
to be one of Britain's
regional seats of government
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00:21:59,530 --> 00:22:01,533
in the event of nuclear war.
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00:22:05,710 --> 00:22:07,920
Overlooking the castle is another part
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00:22:07,920 --> 00:22:10,100
of Britain's coastal defenses,
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00:22:10,100 --> 00:22:11,863
Swingate transmitting station.
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00:22:14,900 --> 00:22:16,980
This was one of the five stations
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00:22:16,980 --> 00:22:20,680
that made up a system called Chain Home.
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00:22:20,680 --> 00:22:24,650
Completed in 1936, it was
one of the world's first
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00:22:24,650 --> 00:22:26,693
practical radar systems.
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00:22:27,860 --> 00:22:31,410
Chain Home was a vital part
of the British war effort
328
00:22:31,410 --> 00:22:34,160
in the fight against Nazi Germany.
329
00:22:34,160 --> 00:22:38,200
It detected German bombers
approaching across the Channel,
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00:22:38,200 --> 00:22:40,770
giving early warning
to the Royal Air Force,
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00:22:40,770 --> 00:22:43,833
and letting them use their
fighters more effectively.
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00:22:45,150 --> 00:22:49,763
The three lattice towers have
a height of around 111 meters.
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00:22:51,510 --> 00:22:56,510
Today, Swingate is used to
transmit FM radio for the BBC.
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00:23:03,380 --> 00:23:06,410
A few miles up the coast is Walmer Castle.
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00:23:06,410 --> 00:23:09,120
Built by Henry VIII,
it was part of a chain
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00:23:09,120 --> 00:23:11,530
of coastal artillery defenses.
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00:23:11,530 --> 00:23:13,970
It later became the home
of the Duke of Wellington,
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00:23:13,970 --> 00:23:16,730
who was made Lord Warden
of the Cinque Ports,
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00:23:16,730 --> 00:23:20,820
an honorary position going
back to the 12th century.
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00:23:20,820 --> 00:23:25,730
Visitors can see the armchair
in which he died in 1852,
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00:23:25,730 --> 00:23:29,603
as well as a true pair
of Wellington boots.
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00:23:32,750 --> 00:23:35,300
Close by is another link in Henry VIII's
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00:23:35,300 --> 00:23:38,533
chain of coastal defenses, Deal Castle.
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00:23:39,660 --> 00:23:42,640
Built in 1539, it countered the threat
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00:23:42,640 --> 00:23:44,813
of invasion from Catholic Europe.
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00:23:45,670 --> 00:23:48,410
Deal Castle overlooks a sheltered area
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00:23:48,410 --> 00:23:51,020
of water know as the Downs,
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00:23:51,020 --> 00:23:54,803
an ideal rallying location
for an invading fleet.
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00:23:56,440 --> 00:23:59,160
The fort is shaped like a Tudor rose,
350
00:23:59,160 --> 00:24:00,753
Henry's family's symbol.
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00:24:03,220 --> 00:24:06,180
At the center of the
fort is a circular keep,
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00:24:06,180 --> 00:24:07,983
80 meters in diameter.
353
00:24:09,010 --> 00:24:12,830
This is surrounded by to
rings of six bastions,
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00:24:12,830 --> 00:24:15,960
allowing defending troops
to fire in all directions,
355
00:24:15,960 --> 00:24:18,263
and to control access to the dry moat.
356
00:24:19,690 --> 00:24:22,840
This was a new style of military castle
357
00:24:22,840 --> 00:24:26,693
designed purely for defense
and manned by soldiers.
358
00:24:30,730 --> 00:24:33,500
Finally, our journey
takes us to Canterbury
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00:24:33,500 --> 00:24:35,563
and its extraordinary cathedral.
360
00:24:38,010 --> 00:24:40,810
Canterbury Cathedral
dates from around 1070.
361
00:24:40,810 --> 00:24:44,793
It was built by the Normans
after William conquered England.
362
00:24:46,400 --> 00:24:51,400
The cathedral is 160 meters
long, it's tower 72 meters tall.
363
00:24:54,590 --> 00:24:57,370
Canterbury is the seat
of the senior bishop
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00:24:57,370 --> 00:24:59,670
and leader of the Church of England.
365
00:24:59,670 --> 00:25:02,750
It was where an earlier
archbishop, Thomas Becket,
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00:25:02,750 --> 00:25:06,743
was murdered in 1170 on
the order of King Henry II.
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00:25:08,560 --> 00:25:10,920
And so this magnificent cathedral,
368
00:25:10,920 --> 00:25:14,260
begun by the Romans,
rebuilt by the Normans,
369
00:25:14,260 --> 00:25:17,050
and added to over the following centuries,
370
00:25:17,050 --> 00:25:21,403
is a symbol of both French
conquest and English identity.
371
00:25:22,680 --> 00:25:26,150
Since the Middle Ages, this
has been the final destination
372
00:25:26,150 --> 00:25:28,640
for pilgrims and visitors,
373
00:25:28,640 --> 00:25:32,013
making it the perfect
place to end this journey.
374
00:25:36,772 --> 00:25:40,522
(uplifting orchestral music)
30497
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