Original subtitles

(wind blowing)

(dramatic orchestral music)

(rousing symphonic music)

- Our journey begins in Hutton-in-the-Forest.

A great house that features in the legends of King Arthur,

before heading to the ruins of Brougham Castle.

From there, it's on into the picturesque Lake District,

an inspiration to poets, painters and walkers,

throughout the ages. (stirring music)

From Ullswater, we climb up to Helvellyn,

one of the highest mountains in England.

From there to Castlerigg,

one of the oldest stone circles in Britain.

From the top of Skiddaw,

we head south over Derwent Water,

and on to Buttermere.

Finally, we head west to St Bees Head,

the most westerly point in the north of England.

In the northwest of England, (relaxing music)

on the border with Scotland,

is the rural county of Cumbria.

Settled since prehistoric times,

Cumbria is today a peaceful place,

known for tourism and agriculture.

But it was once a place of conflict,

attacked first by Viking and Irish raids,

and later, fought for as territory,

by Scotland and England.

This violent past is evident here,

in the extraordinary Hutton-in-the-Forest.

Built from 1350, (stirring symphonic music)

over a period of 500 years,

the great house has been in the hands of only two families.

The de Hotons,

and the Fletcher-Vanes.

Legend has it that this was the setting

for the story of King Arthur and the Green Knight.

The Green Knight's castle.

Once, this stately home was a fortress,

as can be seen from this peel tower,

still part of the great house.

The peel tower was a common architectural feature

in the north of England,

to protect against cross-border raids.

The conflict between Scotland and England continued,

until the Act of Union, in 1707.

Nearby, in the town of Penrith,

we find Carleton Hall. (tranquil music)

Formerly home to the Carleton family,

it's now headquarters to the Cumbria Police.

It overlooks the ruins of the remarkable Brougham Castle.

Built in the 1200s, it fell into ruin by the 18th century.

The poet, William Wordsworth, wrote of Brougham,

"That river and those moldering towers,

"have seen us side by side,

"when having climbed the darksome windings

"of a broken stair,

"and crept along a ridge of fractured wall,

"and gathered with one mind in a rich reward,

"from the far-stretching landscape."

(tranquil folk music)

This is Dalemain House,

one of the most impressive private houses

in the northwest of England.

There's been a settlement here since Saxon times.

But, for over 300 years,

this has been the home of the Hasell family.

Fronted by a pink 18th century facade,

the house is made up of a mix of medieval, Tudor,

and early Georgian architecture.

Since 1977, the house has been open to the public.

On display are the family's fine furniture and paintings.

And of course,

visitors can also enjoy the beautiful landscape,

that surrounds the house.

Our journey now takes us into the spectacular scenery,

of the Lake District.

(meandering piano music)

This is Hallin Fell.

It was a favorite of Alfred Wainwright,

a writer and illustrator,

who fell in love with the Lake District.

In 1952, he published the first of seven volumes

of his masterpiece,

"A Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells".

These classic books give detailed walking routes,

up 214 fells in the Lake District.

Beneath Hallin,

is Ullswater,

the second largest body of water in the Lake District.

14 and a half kilometers long,

and more than a kilometer wide,

the freshwater lake is in places,

over 60 meters deep.

One of the most famous poems in the English language,

Wordsworth's "I Wandered Lonely as a Cloud",

was inspired by the sight of daffodils

growing on the banks around the lake.

Wordsworth, who lived nearby,

wrote the poem after visiting Ullswater in 1802.

Today, Ullswater is a popular destination,

particularly for sailing.

It's also possible to fish and windsurf on the lake,

and for the hardy,

to swim in its ice-cold waters.

From high overhead,

the landscape is dramatic,

as the lake, villages and farms are laid out like a map.

(stirring symphonic music)

From the peace and quiet of Ullswater,

we now head west into the more rugged landscape

of Grisedale and Glenridding fells,

before discovering on the mountain of Helvellyn,

the rocky ridge of Striding Edge.

With its uneven surfaces and perilously steep sides,

Striding Edge has become notorious for walking accidents.

Famously, it was here that Charles Gough,

an early romantic artist,

fell to his death.

It was 1805, and Gough arrived in the Lake District,

to walk Striding Edge.

But in the year of the Battle of Trafalgar,

there were no local men to guide him up.

Still, Gough set off with only his dog Foxy for company.

Three months later, a passing shepherd heard barking,

and found Gough's skeleton with Foxy standing faithfully by.

The story became famous.

Wordsworth commemorated the dog in his poem, "Fidelity".

There was though, the more grisly rumor,

that Foxy had been sustained not by loyalty,

but by feeding on his master's remains.

Helvellyn is the third highest mountain in England.

The rocks were formed by volcanoes

hundreds of millions of years ago,

and shaped into these coves and ridges in the last ice age.

Remarkably, in 1926, a small airplane landed here,

as a publicity stunt.

A stone tablet on the summit,

commemorates this feat.

Next to Helvellyn, is Catstye Cam, shaped like a pyramid,

and said by Wainwright,

to be one of the finest peaks in Lakeland.

On the other side of Wanthwaite Crag,

is Thirlmere Valley.

A reservoir built in the 19th century,

which supplies water to the city of Manchester,

95 miles to the south.

As we move to our next location,

there are outstanding views to enjoy in every direction,

as we fly over this beautiful landscape.

(meandering piano music)

On a plateau nearby,

we find the extraordinary Castlerigg Circle.

(light acoustic guitar music)

Castlerigg is made up of 38 free-standing stones.

They are set in a circle roughly 30 meters in diameter.

It's believed to have been built over 5000 years ago,

making it one of the oldest stone circles in Britain.

Nobody knows for certain why Castlerigg was built.

Some say that it aligns with the stars,

and had a religious function.

Others, that it was a trading post.

Today, it's among the most visited monuments in Cumbria,

and each year thousands of tourists come to enjoy

the spectacular scenery and wonder at the mysteries,

of this remarkable stone circle.

We now move onwards, (tranquil music)

to the mountain of Blencathra.

Once called the Saddleback,

for its distinctive saddle-like shape,

the fell was described by Wainwright,

as one of the grandest objects in Lakeland.

Like much of the Lake District,

Blencathra is publicly accessible, but privately owned.

And in 2014, it was put up for sale by its owner,

the Earl of Lonsdale, for two and a half million dollars.

When the news reached local residents at a nearby pub,

it was jokingly suggested,

that they would buy it for themselves.

But what began as a joke,

has blossomed into the Friends of Blencathra,

who have raised hundreds of thousands of pounds,

in their bid to buy the mountain.

They hope to safeguard this magnificent fell,

for future generations.

Through the low cloud,

looking over another of the lakes,

is the mountain of Skiddaw,

which has some of the oldest stone in the Lake District.

(stirring music)

Known as Skiddaw Slate,

it was formed roughly half a billion years ago,

and was once beneath a shallow ocean.

The slate has been prized over the centuries,

as a building material,

and makes up many of the buildings in Cumbria.

Today, the mountain is used for grazing sheep,

as well as for hillwalking.

Skiddaw's summit is 931 meters high, and those who reach it,

can catch a glimpse of what Wainwright called,

"the most magnificent panoramic view,

"of the heart and soul of Lakeland."

Moving over the crest of Skiddaw,

we find Bassenthwaite Lake,

one of the largest bodies of water in the Lake District.

Six kilometers long, and a kilometer wide,

Bassenthwaite Lake is surprisingly shallow,

only 20 meters at its deepest point.

(ethereal music)

We continue to the south,

passing the town of Keswick,

and on to Derwent Water,

which visitors can explore,

aboard one of these Keswick launches.

(stirring symphonic music)

In the lake, is this seven-acre island,

with a private home, Derwent Island House.

It was built by an eccentric banker in the 18th century,

and is now owned by the National Trust.

Across the lake,

we reach the Lake District's most popular fell, Cat Bells.

The route up from Hawes End is a gentle slope,

making it accessible to most walkers,

and it's known as the Family Fell.

The winding path up the ridge,

was designed by Sir John Woodford,

a local resident and military hero.

A veteran of Waterloo,

Woodford retired to Keswick in 1841,

and used his expertise to build this path.

It's still known as Woodford's Path.

Wainwright fell in love with Cat Bells, writing;

"It has a bold, come hither look,

"that compels one's steps,

"and no suitor ever returned disappointed.

"No Keswick holiday is consummated,

"without a visit to Cat Bells."

For those many thousands who make the trip,

the summit of Cat Bells, although only 451 meters high,

gives spectacular views out across the Lake District.

At the south end of Derwent Water,

the lake drains into the Derwent River,

which runs through the Borrowdale valley.

Now part of the national park, (stirring symphonic music)

it's extraordinary to think,

that this green and peaceful land,

was once a center for heavy industry.

It was famous for iron smelting, charcoal burning,

and mining for lead and copper.

The valley also holds the world's

largest deposit of solid graphite.

Discovered in 1565,

it led to England becoming a world leader

in a surprisingly important invention.

The pencil.

Ahead of us, is Castle Crag.

Only 290 meters tall,

Wainwright believed it to be an important climb, saying,

"It's so magnificently independent.

"So ruggedly individual,

"so aggressively unashamed of its lack of inches."

The fell has an impressive appearance, a rugged height,

apparently blocking the valley of Borrowdale,

which is squeezed between Castle Crag and Grange Fell,

its neighbor on the other side.

This narrow gorge, known as the Jaws of Borrowdale,

is prominent in views from Keswick and Derwent Water.

Over the centuries,

the slopes of Castle Crag were heavily quarried.

It's believed to have been the site of a hill fort,

some 2000 years ago,

giving strategic control over the length of the valley.

This small lake, is Watendlath Tarn.

263 meters above sea level, (tranquil piano music)

the lake is well-stocked with fish,

including rainbow and brown trout.

It's a popular spot for anglers,

who can fish from the banks,

or hire boats to make their day's catch.

Watendlath is remote with only one small road leading to it.

It's also one of the prettiest,

and most popular places to visit.

The secluded hamlet is now owned by the National Trust,

and therefore protected from further development.

And importantly for hungry hikers,

there's a National Trust tea room on hand.

Our journey continues over the heart of the Lake District.

(warming symphonic music)

About two million years in the past,

this whole valley was a mountain range,

broken by river valleys.

100,000 years ago, during the last ice age,

it was covered beneath almost a kilometer of thick ice.

Glaciers which flowed through the river valleys,

carved out basins and deposited sand and gravel,

as they retreated.

The result of all this activity,

is the landscape we see today.

This is Honister Pass.

At over 350 meters,

it's one of the highest roads in the Lake District.

And also one of the steepest.

At points, the gradient of the road reaches one in four.

In December 2015, the highest ever rainfall in the UK,

was recorded on this spot.

Over 341 millimeters in a single day.

Over the pass, we find the magnificent Haystacks Fell.

597 meters tall, (stirring music)

Haystacks is a favorite with fell walkers.

Wainwright wrote of it,

"Haystacks stands unabashed and unashamed,

"in the midst of a circle of much loftier fells.

"Like a shaggy terrier, in the company of fox hounds.

"For a man trying to get a persistent worry out of his mind,

"the top of Haystacks is a wonderful cure."

So it is perhaps unsurprising,

that Wainwright chose Haystacks' lake, Innominate Tarn,

for his ashes to be scattered.

He said, "All I ask for at the end,

"is a last, long resting place,

"by the side of Innominate Tarn, on Haystacks.

"Where the water gently laps the gravelly shore,

"and the heather blooms,

"and Pillar and Gable keep unfailing watch.

"A quiet place,

"a lonely place,

"and if you, dear reader,

"should get a bit of grit in your boot,

"as you are crossing Haystacks in the years to come,

"please treat it with respect.

"It might be me."

Wainwright's books are still in print,

and remain a favorite with walkers all over the world.

The spectacular view from the top of Haystacks,

bears out Wainwright's loving description

of this popular mountain,

as it looks out over Buttermere and Crummock Water.

Our journey now takes us to the most westerly,

and least visited of the region's lakes, Ennerdale Water.

(meandering piano music)

Formed by glaciers,

the lake is exceptionally clear.

It serves as a reservoir for several towns in West Cumbria.

It's the only major lake in Cumbria,

without a road running alongside,

making it an unusually peaceful spot for hikers,

who could walk the circumference of Ennerdale on footpaths,

to enjoy the tranquility of this magnificent place.

We continue on our journey, passing Flat Fell,

and glimpsing ahead, the town of Whitehaven.

Until the 17th century,

Whitehaven was a sleepy fishing village.

Then, like many Cumbrian towns,

it grew rapidly in the Industrial Revolution.

Whitehaven became the third most important port in England.

Rum, sugar and tobacco from the West Indies arrived here,

and iron ore was sent to the furnaces of Wales.

(playful symphonic music)

Sadly, Whitehaven was also part of the notorious

slave trade from Africa,

until its abolition in Britain in 1807.

The town's grid system was laid out in the 18th century.

It's believed that this small town,

was the inspiration for the street layout of New York City.

Today, visitors can visit Whitehaven's historic ships,

fine Georgian buildings,

and learn about the town's history,

at the interactive museum, named appropriately,

The Rum Story.

Further down the coast,

with its glorious sandy beaches,

overlooking the Irish Sea,

is the town of St Bees. (charming folk music)

With the arrival of the railway in 1849,

St Bees not only became a popular seaside resort,

but it meant the more well-to-do,

could commute to Whitehaven,

or inland to Workington.

Today, it still remains a favorite with visitors.

St Bees is named after Saint Bega,

a 7th century Irish nun,

who was shipwrecked here.

Around 1120, on the site of her nunnery,

the Norman conquerors built this Benedictine priory.

Remarkably, this small rural town produced two Archbishops,

during the reign of Elizabeth I.

(sheep bleating)

Finally, we reach our last location.

St Bees Head Lighthouse.

It was built in 1822, and stands 17 meters tall,

above the high cliffs.

St Bees is the most westerly point in the north of England,

and the starting point of Wainwright's coast-to-coast walk.

A 300 kilometer trail, that takes hikers across Britain,

from the Lake District to the North York Moors.

It starts here on these dramatic cliffs,

at the edge of Lakeland,

cloaked in sea mist,

giving them a magical beauty.

Wainwright summed up this area in his final book.

"Surely there is no other place

"in this whole wonderful world,

"quite like Lakeland.

"No other so exquisitely lovely,

"no other so charming.

"No other that calls so insistently

"across a gulf of distance.

"All who truly love Lakeland,

"are exiles when away from it."

Making this the perfect place for us,

to enter our exile from Lakeland,

and to end this journey.

(rousing orchestral music)

(graphics whooshing)