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(upbeat music)
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(light music)
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- Our journey
begins in Memphis,
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a thriving modern city
with a complex past.
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Here, we visit Beale Street,
birthplace of the blues
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and the cradle of soul music
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and glimpse Graceland, the extravagant
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former home of Elvis Presley,
the King of Rock and Roll.
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Continuing on our journey,
we discover Shiloh,
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site of one of the bloodiest battles
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in the American Civil War and a haunting
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monument to its fallen before traveling
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to the Rattle and Snap Plantation
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amongst the most lavish
of the Southern estates.
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Finally, we reach Nashville,
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better known as Music
City, and its extraordinary
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Grand Ole Opry, one of America's
most famous live venues.
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In the state of Tennessee,
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on the banks of the
Mississippi, is Memphis.
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(gentle music)
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It's one of the busiest
cities in the American South,
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and a place that's changed
the world with music.
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This is the home of the blues,
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the cradle of soul music
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and the birthplace of rock and roll.
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Founded in 1819, Memphis has blossomed
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into a modern center for culture, commerce
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and international carriage
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as a world-leading hub for air cargo.
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And today, we find history taking flight.
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This is a Hawker Sea Fury.
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It was commissioned by the
British Royal Air Force
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during World War II, but
by the time it was ready,
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the war had ended, and
propeller planes had
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been overtaken by modern jets.
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The Hawker found a new lease of life
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as the perfect plane to
fly from aircraft carriers,
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being small, lightweight and maneuverable.
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It was made for the Royal
Navy and renamed the Sea Fury.
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More than 800 were built over 10 years
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for Britain and Allied armed forces.
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It has a top speed of 460 miles per hour
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and a wingspan of almost 12 meters.
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Today, only a few remain airworthy,
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still flown by daring enthusiasts
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as heritage and racing aircraft.
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(light music)
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Memphis is named after the town in Egypt,
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so perhaps it's not surprising to discover
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in its heart a mirrored pyramid.
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Since 1991, it's been a focal point
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of the city's skyline.
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At almost 100 meters, it's taller
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than the Statue of Liberty.
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This is one of the largest
pyramids on the planet.
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After years of disuse,
it's being redeveloped
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as a mega store for sporting goods
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as well as incorporating a hotel,
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restaurants and a bowling alley.
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Memphis is on the Mississippi Delta,
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a warm, humid climate with rich soil,
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ideal for growing cotton.
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But the crop needs labor,
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and like much of the pre-Civil War south,
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the city's early wealth was
build on the slave trade.
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Ever since, this has shaped Memphis.
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It was a vital battleground
in the conflict
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between the northern and southern states
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in the mid-19th century.
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Later, racial minorities made the music
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for which the city is now celebrated.
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And in the 1960s, Memphis
became the front line
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in the struggle for civil rights.
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Though divided, Memphis has flourished.
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Crossing the Mississippi connecting
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the state of Tennessee with Arkansas
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is the Hernando de Soto Bridge
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and one of the city's
busiest thoroughfares.
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It's named after the 16th century Spanish
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conquistador who explored this stretch
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of the Mississippi River.
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Despite being built in 1973,
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it's still called by
locals the new bridge.
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Each day, it carries more
than 50,000 cars and trucks.
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But Memphis is known for a more genteel
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mode of transportation,
the paddle wheeler steamer.
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This is the Island Queen
at almost 25 meters long.
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She was the first all-steel passenger ship
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on the Mississippi.
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(lively music)
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Today, she gives tourists
an extraordinary ride
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on one of the world's great rivers,
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but steamboats like this were vital
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in Memphis's economic development.
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Their steam paddles allowed them to sail
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upstream against the strong
current of the river.
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And their shallow draft lets
them navigate its muddy waters.
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But as railway companies
were building tracks
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across the growing United States,
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the slow steamboats fell from favor.
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Today, they continue to
cruise the Mississippi
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as a reminder of the city's past.
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Overlooking the river is
the Memphis Cotton Exchange.
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Founded in 1873, this was once the center
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of the world's cotton market,
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an economy that transformed
the fortunes of America
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and shifted the balance of world power.
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It now houses a museum
of the cotton industry.
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Memphis's other great export is music.
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(blues music)
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And here's where it
comes from, Beale Street.
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This is the birthplace of the blues.
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In the 1860s, traveling black musicians,
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some of them freed slaves,
began to come here to play.
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The street was bought up by Robert Church,
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America's first black millionaire,
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who developed it as a music hotspot.
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Louis Armstrong, W.C. Handy, Muddy Waters
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and B.B. King all played here,
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making the music known internationally
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as the Memphis Blues.
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In 1966, Beale Street was declared
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a National Historic Landmark.
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Today, it's a major
destination for tourists.
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But it still has the bars, cafes and clubs
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that built its reputation.
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Leaving behind Beale Street,
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we pass the FedEx Forum,
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home to the NBA's Memphis Grizzlies,
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before reaching this unassuming building,
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the home of Sun Studios.
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If Beale Street can
lay claim to the blues,
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this is the birthplace of rock and roll.
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In 1954, a young vocalist walked
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in off the street to
record himself singing.
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He wanted the recording
as a gift for his mother.
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His name was Elvis Presley.
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Sun Studios producer Sam
Phillips wrote a note.
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Good ballad singer, hold.
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(early rock music)
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Nearby is the Stax Museum,
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once one of America's most
successful soul labels,
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Stax was also a model of racial harmony
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in a divided Memphis.
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Here, black and white
people worked together
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from top management to star bands.
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Today, it's a museum.
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In a nod to rivals Motown,
which called itself
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Hitsville, Stax called
its studio Soulsville USA.
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(gentle music)
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Our journey continues now
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to the National Civil Rights Museum,
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built around the Lorraine Motel.
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It was here that Martin Luther King
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was assassinated in 1968.
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He had come to Memphis
to speak to striking
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sanitation workers protesting
the city's unfair pay.
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The assassination of
King outraged America.
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And it was against this
backdrop that the country
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passed the historic Civil Rights Act
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outlawing racial discrimination.
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On the outskirts of Memphis,
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we find another memorial to
the civil rights movement.
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In 1968, this large
green space was renamed
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the Martin Luther King Riverside Park.
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Today, it has a nine-hole golf course,
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lake, marina, playgrounds and great views
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across the Mississippi.
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Visitors to the city who
come from around the world
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will seek out the most famous landmark
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in Memphis, the home of one
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of the world's best-loved
musicians, Graceland.
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(upbeat music)
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This is where Elvis Presley lived
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and a monument to his
inimitable sense of style.
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He had been born in a
humble, two-room shack
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to a working-class family.
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In the spring of 1957, age 22, and fresh
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from the success of "Heartbreak Hotel,"
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he bought this house and its grounds.
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Elvis spent a fortune
rebuilding it to his designs,
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including wrought iron front gates
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shaped like sheet music.
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Set in almost 14 acres, the house is built
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traditionally in the colonial style.
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Elvis remodeled the interior to include
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yellow vinyl walls, a green
shag carpeted ceiling,
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a fake waterfall and a shooting range.
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In 1977, Elvis Presley died here,
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and today, it stands as a museum
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to the King of Rock and Roll.
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Each year, it's visited by
more than 600,000 people,
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making it, after the White House,
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America's most visited private house.
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Graceland's grounds include
a museum across the street
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from the mansion, containing
many Elvis artifacts,
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such as his famous Las Vegas jumpsuits,
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awards, gold records
and his pink Cadillac.
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Alongside the museum are
Elvis's private planes.
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The largest was customized to include
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a penthouse bedroom with queen-sized bed
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and gold-plated bathroom fittings.
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(gentle music)
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These planes no longer have engines,
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but the noise of jets can still be heard
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because less than a mile away
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is Memphis International Airport.
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This is the busiest cargo
airfield in the United States
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and the home of the FedEx Global Superhub,
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one of the world's most important centers
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for international trade.
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In a single night, this facility can sort,
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process and dispatch up
to 19 million packages.
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At its busiest, flights take off here
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every 90 seconds, carrying
cargo across the world.
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FedEx is also one of the city's
most important employers,
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with almost 30,000 people working
directly in this facility.
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One in five employees in Memphis
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works in air transportation.
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Our journey now takes us
eastwards and back in time
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to the American Civil War
and the Shiloh battlefield.
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00:14:41,550 --> 00:14:45,490
In 1862, this was the site
of one of the bloodiest
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conflicts, fought over two days in April,
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between the slave-owning
Confederacy of the south
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and the Union forces from the north.
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(gentle music)
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The Union Army, commanded
by General Ulysses Grant,
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was attacked by the Confederates
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00:15:01,520 --> 00:15:04,243
under Generals Johnston and Beauregard.
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00:15:05,610 --> 00:15:08,540
Johnston was shot in the
leg and bled to death
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00:15:08,540 --> 00:15:10,260
as he led the attack.
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00:15:10,260 --> 00:15:13,550
Beauregard, who now assumed sole command,
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00:15:13,550 --> 00:15:16,200
decided not to press home the assault,
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as his troops were tired.
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This was, perhaps, a fatal error
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as overnight Grant's army
was reinforced to 45,000 men.
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00:15:27,780 --> 00:15:31,040
The next day, they
attacked the unsuspecting
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Confederate Army and
forced them to retreat.
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00:15:34,990 --> 00:15:37,770
Grant was later criticized
for not following up
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his attack on the enemy,
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00:15:39,650 --> 00:15:42,020
but he felt his troops had done enough,
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and they were exhausted.
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The cost in human life of
this battle was frightful.
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00:15:47,800 --> 00:15:52,110
The two sides suffered
over 23,000 casualties,
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00:15:52,110 --> 00:15:56,360
more than in all of America's
previous wars combined,
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00:15:56,360 --> 00:15:59,380
though this was soon
surpassed a year later
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at the Battle of Gettysburg,
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00:16:01,210 --> 00:16:05,080
with around 50,000 dead and wounded.
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00:16:05,080 --> 00:16:08,780
In 1866, a year after the Civil War,
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Herman Melville wrote a series of poems
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called "Battle-Pieces and Aspects of War"
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00:16:14,850 --> 00:16:17,423
to the memory of those
killed in the conflict.
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00:16:18,370 --> 00:16:21,227
One of them was "Shiloh: A Requiem."
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(dramatic music)
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Skimming lightly, wheeling still,
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00:16:32,760 --> 00:16:36,750
the swallows fly low over
the field in clouded days
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the forest-field of Shiloh.
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The church so lone, the log-built one,
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00:16:43,150 --> 00:16:45,510
that echoed to many a parting groan
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00:16:45,510 --> 00:16:49,113
and a natural prayer of
dying foemen mingled there.
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Foemen at morn, but friends at eve
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Fame or country least their care.
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What like a bullet can undeceive!
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00:17:00,070 --> 00:17:01,880
But now they lie low,
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00:17:01,880 --> 00:17:04,770
while over them the swallows skim,
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00:17:04,770 --> 00:17:07,353
and all is hushed at Shiloh.
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00:17:13,850 --> 00:17:16,840
Today, the vast fields are a monument
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00:17:16,840 --> 00:17:19,373
to the soldiers who lie buried here.
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00:17:24,280 --> 00:17:27,150
To the north and witness to the Civil War,
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00:17:27,150 --> 00:17:32,150
was the Rattle and Snap
Plantation house, built in 1845.
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00:17:32,810 --> 00:17:34,880
This is considered to be the greatest
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00:17:34,880 --> 00:17:38,573
example of Greek Revival
architecture in Tennessee.
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00:17:39,490 --> 00:17:42,050
And the plantation house is an example
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00:17:42,050 --> 00:17:46,974
of the lavishness and wealth
of many southern slave owners.
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(gentle music)
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00:17:49,490 --> 00:17:51,560
Legend has it that its name
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00:17:51,560 --> 00:17:53,930
comes from the high-stakes gambling game
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00:17:53,930 --> 00:17:57,850
played with beans called rattle and snap,
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00:17:57,850 --> 00:17:59,993
in which the house was won.
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00:18:01,280 --> 00:18:05,160
Built by slave labor,
its 10 portico columns
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00:18:05,160 --> 00:18:07,850
were shipped from Cincinnati by boat
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00:18:07,850 --> 00:18:11,663
then pulled by hand and
oxen-drawn wagon to this site.
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00:18:13,240 --> 00:18:15,010
Today, the plantation house,
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00:18:15,010 --> 00:18:18,583
a National Historic Landmark,
is a tourist attraction.
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00:18:22,530 --> 00:18:25,713
Nearby in Franklin is
the Carnton Plantation.
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00:18:30,907 --> 00:18:33,510
Built in 1826 in what is known
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00:18:33,510 --> 00:18:37,810
as the Federal style by
a former Nashville mayor,
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00:18:37,810 --> 00:18:39,150
it quickly grew to become one
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00:18:39,150 --> 00:18:41,743
of the area's most important farms.
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00:18:42,900 --> 00:18:45,460
During the Civil War, this was the site
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00:18:45,460 --> 00:18:48,340
of a major battle, and the house was used
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00:18:48,340 --> 00:18:50,370
as a field hospital.
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00:18:50,370 --> 00:18:54,035
A staff officer wrote
the wounded in hundreds
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00:18:54,035 --> 00:18:56,770
were brought to the
house during the battle
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00:18:56,770 --> 00:18:59,000
and all the night after.
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00:18:59,000 --> 00:19:02,060
And when the noble old
house could hold no more,
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00:19:02,060 --> 00:19:04,870
the yard was appropriated
until the wounded
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00:19:04,870 --> 00:19:06,693
and dead filled that.
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00:19:08,030 --> 00:19:11,350
At one point, the bodies of
four Confederate generals
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00:19:11,350 --> 00:19:14,020
lay on Carnton's back porch.
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00:19:14,020 --> 00:19:18,890
Even today, after 150 years,
it's said that the floor
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00:19:18,890 --> 00:19:21,153
is still stained with their blood.
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00:19:22,710 --> 00:19:26,480
In the 1970s, the house
and immediate grounds
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00:19:26,480 --> 00:19:29,150
were donated to the Carnton Association
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00:19:29,150 --> 00:19:31,023
and opened to the public.
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00:19:34,620 --> 00:19:38,800
Our journey continues now
to the city of Nashville.
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This is the capital of
the state of Tennessee
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and the center of the
world for country music,
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00:19:44,950 --> 00:19:48,466
giving Nashville its name, Music City.
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(gentle music)
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00:19:50,370 --> 00:19:53,820
This place has always
been known for music.
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00:19:53,820 --> 00:19:56,160
Its first celebrity, King of the Wild
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00:19:56,160 --> 00:19:58,830
Frontier Davy Crockett, was known
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00:19:58,830 --> 00:20:00,330
for his skill with the fiddle.
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00:20:03,830 --> 00:20:06,450
In the early 20th
century, it became famous
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00:20:06,450 --> 00:20:09,390
for its honky-tonk hillbilly sound.
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00:20:09,390 --> 00:20:12,208
And by the '50s and
'60s, this had developed
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00:20:12,208 --> 00:20:15,023
into the slick Nashville sound.
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00:20:18,410 --> 00:20:21,410
In the center of the city
is the state capitol,
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00:20:21,410 --> 00:20:23,900
designed by Architect William Strickland
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00:20:23,900 --> 00:20:26,470
in the Greek Revival style.
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00:20:26,470 --> 00:20:31,010
It was begun in 1845 and
took 14 years to complete,
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00:20:31,010 --> 00:20:34,283
using commercial, convict and slave labor.
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00:20:35,290 --> 00:20:37,670
Since it opened, visitors have been able
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00:20:37,670 --> 00:20:40,940
to enter the chambers to
watch state representatives
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00:20:40,940 --> 00:20:43,450
fighting over new legislation,
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00:20:43,450 --> 00:20:47,120
although with less vigor than at LP Field,
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00:20:47,120 --> 00:20:50,460
home to the NFL's Tennessee Titans.
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00:20:50,460 --> 00:20:54,360
It was here in 2000 that
the Music City Miracle
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00:20:54,360 --> 00:20:58,270
took place, when the
Titans won a playoff match
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00:20:58,270 --> 00:20:59,763
with just seconds to spare.
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00:21:02,020 --> 00:21:04,330
In the heart of Nashville is a monument
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00:21:04,330 --> 00:21:07,163
to its origins, Fort Nashborough.
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00:21:08,180 --> 00:21:12,073
The city was founded in
1780 by James Robertson.
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00:21:13,060 --> 00:21:15,360
He built this to shelter his settlers
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00:21:15,360 --> 00:21:17,793
against attacks by Native Americans.
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00:21:18,750 --> 00:21:21,690
This is a reconstruction
of the original fort,
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00:21:21,690 --> 00:21:24,940
which was built in 1930 and then rebuilt
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00:21:24,940 --> 00:21:29,693
in 1962 using original
log cabin techniques.
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00:21:29,693 --> 00:21:32,276
(gentle music)
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00:21:33,280 --> 00:21:36,893
Today, it's dwarfed by
the city it fostered.
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00:21:44,470 --> 00:21:47,340
Nearby, the vast Fort Negley was built
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00:21:47,340 --> 00:21:50,103
during the Civil War by the Union.
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00:22:03,500 --> 00:22:06,790
It was built largely by
newly freed black slaves
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00:22:06,790 --> 00:22:11,750
who fled to Nashville once it
was captured by Union forces.
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00:22:11,750 --> 00:22:15,010
After the Civil War, this
fort was a meeting place
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00:22:15,010 --> 00:22:18,670
for the white supremacists
the Ku Klux Klan
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00:22:18,670 --> 00:22:22,283
until they were driven
underground and stamped out.
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00:22:24,670 --> 00:22:28,920
Nearby is this extraordinary
full-scale replica
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00:22:28,920 --> 00:22:30,932
of the Athens Parthenon.
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00:22:30,932 --> 00:22:33,432
(light music)
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00:22:44,430 --> 00:22:48,000
Since the 1850s, Nashville,
with its many schools,
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00:22:48,000 --> 00:22:50,623
universities and theaters, has been known
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00:22:50,623 --> 00:22:52,693
as the Athens of the South.
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00:22:53,560 --> 00:22:56,670
This Parthenon was built in 1897
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00:22:56,670 --> 00:23:00,320
as part of the Tennessee
Centennial Exposition,
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00:23:00,320 --> 00:23:03,450
the 100th anniversary of Tennessee's entry
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00:23:03,450 --> 00:23:05,063
into the United States.
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00:23:05,990 --> 00:23:08,920
The celebration lasted only six months.
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00:23:08,920 --> 00:23:11,840
Originally, this building
was set to be demolished,
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00:23:11,840 --> 00:23:13,990
but the people of Nashville were so proud
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00:23:13,990 --> 00:23:16,557
of their Parthenon that
it was reconstructed
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00:23:16,557 --> 00:23:21,023
in concrete, and it
has endured ever since.
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00:23:23,820 --> 00:23:27,220
Today it serves as the city's art museum
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00:23:27,220 --> 00:23:29,460
and has a collection
of important paintings
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00:23:29,460 --> 00:23:33,223
by 19th and 20th century American artists.
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00:23:37,520 --> 00:23:41,210
But this is the art for which
Nashville is best known.
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00:23:41,210 --> 00:23:42,850
(country music)
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00:23:42,850 --> 00:23:45,800
The Country Music Hall
of Fame is dedicated
370
00:23:45,800 --> 00:23:49,373
to educating audiences
about this particular genre.
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00:23:50,240 --> 00:23:54,000
It honors legends Johnny Cash, Bob Dylan,
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00:23:54,000 --> 00:23:57,800
Kenny Rogers, as well
as more recent stars.
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00:23:57,800 --> 00:24:01,643
A new addition is the Taylor
Swift Education Center.
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00:24:02,600 --> 00:24:06,270
It's literally built to showcase music,
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00:24:06,270 --> 00:24:10,880
and from above, it's in
the shape of a bass clef.
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00:24:10,880 --> 00:24:14,580
The windows are made to
look like piano keys,
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00:24:14,580 --> 00:24:17,100
and the discs around the radio mast
378
00:24:17,100 --> 00:24:19,270
represent the different size records
379
00:24:19,270 --> 00:24:21,193
used for country music.
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00:24:22,475 --> 00:24:23,460
(gentle music)
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00:24:23,460 --> 00:24:26,540
Nashville is also home
to one of the finest
382
00:24:26,540 --> 00:24:28,590
guitar makers in the world.
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00:24:28,590 --> 00:24:32,210
This is the Gibson factory and museum.
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00:24:32,210 --> 00:24:36,140
Founded in 1902, many of
the earlier instruments
385
00:24:36,140 --> 00:24:39,630
are highly collectible,
including the world-famous
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00:24:39,630 --> 00:24:42,740
Les Paul electric guitar.
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00:24:42,740 --> 00:24:45,240
(blues music)
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00:24:46,110 --> 00:24:49,530
Visitors get a chance to
see instruments being made
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00:24:49,530 --> 00:24:51,733
as the factory is open for tours.
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00:24:55,400 --> 00:24:59,760
Finally, our journey takes
us to the Ryman Theater,
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00:24:59,760 --> 00:25:02,917
once home to legendary radio show
392
00:25:02,917 --> 00:25:04,707
"The Grand Old Opry."
393
00:25:08,400 --> 00:25:12,140
This has been called the
home of American music,
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00:25:12,140 --> 00:25:15,840
and the country's most famous stage,
395
00:25:15,840 --> 00:25:18,340
hosting stars like Elvis Presley,
396
00:25:18,340 --> 00:25:22,053
Johnny Cash, Hank
Williams and Patsy Cline,
397
00:25:23,470 --> 00:25:26,470
making this theater, with its unique blend
398
00:25:26,470 --> 00:25:29,460
of music, heritage and history,
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00:25:29,460 --> 00:25:32,793
the perfect place to end this journey.
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00:25:36,304 --> 00:25:38,887
(upbeat music)
401
00:25:59,007 --> 00:26:01,757
(logo whooshing)
31257
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