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(exciting music)
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(uplifting music)
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- Our journey begins
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in the hidden village of Cudillero,
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before tracing the coastline
down to the Beach of Cathedrals
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where the Cantabrian
Sea has carved the shore
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like a mighty sculptor.
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From here, we cross the headlands
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at the very tip of the Iberian Peninsula
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for some sun and surf,
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and then make our way to
the Tower of Hercules,
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the oldest lighthouse in the world.
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Next we move south to Cape Finisterre,
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once believed to be the end of the earth.
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Turning inland to the east,
we head to the cathedral
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of Santiago de Compostela, a holy site
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in the Christian faith,
and the final resting place
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of one of Jesus Christ's apostles.
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We continue east to Lugo
with its ancient city walls,
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head south to a number of
spectacular monasteries,
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and conclude our journey
at Monterrei Castle
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on the Portuguese border.
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On the Asturian Coast,
nestled inside a horseshoe
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of steep, rocky cliffs
cascading toward the sea
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is the small, picturesque
village of Cudillero.
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Not only strikingly beautiful, the huge,
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natural surrounding amphitheater makes it
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virtually invisible from either side.
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Powerful camouflage that
helped protect the tiny town
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from Norman pirates who once
patrolled the coast of Spain,
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pillaging and burning as they went.
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(casual festive music)
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Here, bright pastoral homes and shops
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all twist their way down the mountains,
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leading to the village's most
important feature, its marina.
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Cudillero was founded by fishermen,
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and it remains a seafaring
community to this day.
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Watching the ships return
with their catch each evening
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and buying fresh seafood
right off the boats
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is the town's favorite activity.
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Wild, jagged, and marked
by high, plunging cliffs,
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the breathtakingly
beautiful Asturian coast
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was Celtic territory before the arrival
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of the Roman conquest of
the Iberian Peninsula,
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then called Hispania, by
Caesar Augustus in 19 B.C.
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The sound of Celtic
bagpipes can still be heard
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in this region as a reminder
of this area's past heritage.
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This is the only stretch
of the country never to be
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conquered by the Islamic conquest
in the early 8th century.
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The invaders were fought off this land
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by a Visigoth chieftain in
the 722 battle of Covadonga,
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the victory that founded
the kingdom of Asturias,
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and without which there
may never have been
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a reconquest of the Peninsula
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and the birth of modern Spain.
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Concealed inside the rugged
cliffs is the port town
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of Luarca, built around an S-shaped cove
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and bisected by a small
river, this was once
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an important hub for whaling.
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Today, it survives as a modest
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but attractive seaside resort.
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Not only sharp and rocky,
the coastline also features
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more than 200 sandy beaches
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that offer stunning
views, excellent surfing,
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and for the very confident,
some designated naturist areas.
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A little further to the
west, overlooking the ocean
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is the town of Tapia de Casariego.
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Bathed in sun and sea mist
with year-round swells
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fed by an underwater
river, it's a perfect place
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to catch a wave, a trout,
or an afternoon nap.
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One of the most iconic and beautiful sites
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along the Spanish coast is
the Beach of Cathedrals.
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A national monument only
visible during low tide,
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the cove features an array of
natural architectural marvels
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including stone arches, grottoes,
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and even secret passageways.
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Just up the coast, off the sandy beach
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and turquoise waters of the Cantabrian Sea
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is the town of Foz.
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(gentle guitar music)
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Built on the mouth of the river Masma
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long before Rome came
to the shores of Spain,
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this was for centuries
one of the most important
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shipyards in the Spanish northwest.
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Today, with its untouched
beauty, Foz has developed
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into a popular resort.
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Moving north and to the west,
we crossed the headlands
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of Spain, at the tip of
the Iberian Peninsula
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to arrive at Cedeira.
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Cut in half by the river Condominas,
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a web of bridges connects
the old world to the new.
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Peaceful and serene, both halves are swept
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by an expansive beach, and
many of the locals here
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still make their living from the sea,
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landing striped trout from small ships
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or carving the sought-after
delicacy of goose barnacles
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from the rocky shores of
the nearby Ortegal Cape.
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Moving south along the coast,
we arrive at Valdovino Beach.
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In all, the Galicia region of Spain
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offers 1200 kilometers of coastline
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with some of the best surfing in Europe.
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The trick here, it is said, is not finding
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a swell large enough to ride,
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it's finding one small enough to handle.
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But for those looking for
a little less adventure,
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there are always shallow,
still lagoons nearby.
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Even in summer, sun bathers
and surfers who brave
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the rocky terrain to get to these pristine
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and golden beaches may
well find they have them
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all to themselves.
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A little further to the south,
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we find the ship building city of Ferrol,
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where twin castles guard
the harbor entrance
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to the birthplace of the
dictator, Francisco Franco
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as well as the socialist
leader, Pablo Iglesias.
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Just off the Ferrol coast, we
catch up with an ocean yacht
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cruising through the clear blue Atlantic.
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With fully 17 estuaries,
known here as rias,
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Galicia provides the
second-largest sailing area
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in all of Spain.
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On a rocky peninsula at the
entrance of La Coruna harbor
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stands the mighty Tower of Hercules.
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Legend says that after slaying
Medusa's grandson, Geyron,
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the mythical Greek hero buried
the giant's severed head
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where he stood, and then
built the lighthouse
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to remember his victory.
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In reality, this incredible
beacon was erected
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by the Romans in the first century A.D.
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At 59 meters tall, it is the
second-highest lighthouse
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in Spain, and it is the
oldest Roman lighthouse
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still in use anywhere in the world today.
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Though the outer walls were
added much later, in 1788,
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most of the interior is
the original craftsmanship
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of Roman masons.
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This site was chosen
because it was, at the time,
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the very edge of the civilized world.
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Nearly 2000 years later,
visitors can still climb
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the 234 steps to the top,
and gaze down at the stunning
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Spanish coast and the
surrounding city of A Coruna.
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This busy port, oddly
contorted along the peninsula,
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has been occupied since
prehistory, and only started
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to boom after being visited
by Julius Caesar in 62 B.C.
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A Coruna is perhaps most famous, though,
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for a battle in 1589, when
a woman named Maria Pita
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repelled the English armada.
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She took up her dead husband's spear,
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killed the British flag-bearer,
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and then, shouting from
atop the city wall,
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rallied her people to
defeat the English forces
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led by the privateer, Sir Francis Drake.
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Seven kilometers away, servicing
the historic metropolis
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as it has done for
decades, is Coruna Airport.
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(dreamy atmospheric music)
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More than 800,000 passengers
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pass through these gates each year.
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A sharp turn to the west finds us again
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tracing the coastline as we make our way
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towards Cape Finisterre.
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(gentle guitar music)
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Jutting 600 meters into the sea
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and rising 241 meters above the water
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is Monte Facho.
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And standing on top is
Cape Finisterre Lighthouse,
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known to many as the lighthouse
at the end of the world.
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Built in 1853, its beacon can be seen
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for up to 65 kilometers at sea,
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warning ships of the jagged
shore that has claimed
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enough vessels, and enough
lives, to earn the macabre
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nickname, Costa da Morte,
or the Coast of Death.
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The town that stands in the
shadow of the lighthouse
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is Cape Finisterre, which
translates to Land's End.
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Once believed to be the
westernmost point in Spain,
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this was thought to be the
very edge of the earth.
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It's also the final stop
for a great many pilgrims
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traveling the way of St. James.
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After visiting the shrine of the apostle
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in Santiago de Compostela,
they continue here
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where, as a matter of tradition,
they burn their clothes
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at the lighthouse as part of a ritual,
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signifying the end of one life,
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and the beginning of another.
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Turning back east, we discover
sitting on a serene inlet,
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the charming fishing village of Cee.
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Only about an hour's
drive from Coruna Airport,
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its ancient harbor is protected
by a pair of fortresses,
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once used to defend the bay
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against marauding pirates and privateers.
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Today, though, the only
invaders are the tourists
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who come to visit this
beautiful part of Spain.
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Providing much of the power to the region
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is the Santa Ucier Dam.
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Spanning the River Celias,
it was built in 1988
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under the direction of Juan Benet Goitia
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who was not only a civil engineer,
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but one of the great
writers of the 20th century.
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From water power to wind power,
Spain is one of the largest
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producers in the world, and Galicia alone
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features more than 100 wind
farms, which are currently
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powering 1.5 million homes.
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This is the Cathedral of
Santiago de Compostela,
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one of the most holy places
in the Christian faith,
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and believed to be the final resting place
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of St. James the Great,
one of the 12 apostles
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of Jesus Christ.
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(holy choral music)
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Since the Middle Ages,
pilgrims have walked the way
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of St. James from across Western Europe
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to end here, beneath
the spires and statues
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of this great cathedral.
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This is the fourth church to stand here,
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and was built gradually, piece by piece,
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beginning in 1075.
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It was finally consecrated in 1211,
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more than 130 years later.
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Construction would continue for centuries.
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The result is a soaring
mix of its original
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Romanesque architecture,
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with Gothic and Baroque
embellishments added,
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as the earlier parts of the structure
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were damaged and repaired.
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The Cathedral is the heart
of Santiago de Compostela,
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the capital city of Galicia
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Legend says the hermit
Pelagius was led to the tomb
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of St. James by a star in the sky,
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thus Compostela was given its name
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which means Field of the Star.
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The oval-shaped section of the city,
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bounded by the high Medieval wall,
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is known as Old Town.
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It was largely destroyed by Muslim forces
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in 997 A.D., but completely rebuilt
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and further fortified over
the century that followed.
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Santiago de Compostela
has been a pilgrimage site
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for over 1000 years without interruption,
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and today it is a more
popular destination than ever.
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Nearly a quarter of a
million people each year
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still spend several grueling
weeks walking hundreds
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of kilometers to find the city,
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and perhaps, in turn,
meaning to their faith.
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Just south of the city, we find cyclists
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powering towards glory in the annual race
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known as Vuelta a Espana,
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or the Tour of Spain.
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It was first held in 1935,
and was only interrupted
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a few times by the likes
of the Spanish Civil War
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and World War II.
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Since then, it has been run each year
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since 1955 without interruption.
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It is one of cycling's
most prestigious events,
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and one of only three grand tours,
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along with Giro d'Italia
and the Tour de France.
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00:17:01,224 --> 00:17:03,010
(crowds cheering)
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00:17:03,010 --> 00:17:07,130
The first Vuelta a Espana
was contested by 50 riders,
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crossing a 14 stage journey
spanning 3411 kilometers
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of mountains and valleys.
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00:17:15,580 --> 00:17:18,700
Modern tours see more than 200 men
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peddling their way
across a slightly shorter
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00:17:21,380 --> 00:17:26,380
but still brutal 3181.5
kilometers over Spanish roads.
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00:17:28,607 --> 00:17:31,774
(upbeat guitar music)
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00:17:39,350 --> 00:17:41,910
Though riders come from
all across the globe
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to battle the punishing landscape
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00:17:44,030 --> 00:17:47,270
as a matter of national
pride, Spaniards have
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historically, dominated the Vuelta,
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winning 30 of the 69 tours to date.
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00:17:56,960 --> 00:18:00,290
Continuing east, we arrive at Lugo,
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the only city in the world
still completely encircled
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00:18:03,840 --> 00:18:05,850
by Roman walls.
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00:18:05,850 --> 00:18:07,980
They were built in the third century,
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00:18:07,980 --> 00:18:12,980
rise as high as 15 meters,
and are studied with 71 towers
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00:18:13,620 --> 00:18:14,963
and 10 gates.
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00:18:15,910 --> 00:18:18,650
The walls are constructed of stone shells
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00:18:18,650 --> 00:18:21,420
on the internal and external facings,
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00:18:21,420 --> 00:18:24,810
and the core is filled
with earth and rock.
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00:18:24,810 --> 00:18:27,650
They are protected as
a World Heritage Site
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00:18:27,650 --> 00:18:31,680
and listed as being the
finest surviving example
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00:18:31,680 --> 00:18:35,663
of later Roman military
fortifications on Earth.
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00:18:37,040 --> 00:18:40,740
Despite the size and strength
of the massive city walls,
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00:18:40,740 --> 00:18:44,010
Lugo has been sacked a number of times.
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00:18:44,010 --> 00:18:47,450
The Suevi, the Visigoths, the Moors,
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00:18:47,450 --> 00:18:50,340
and the Normans have all, at one point,
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00:18:50,340 --> 00:18:52,793
destroyed and occupied the town.
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00:18:54,690 --> 00:18:58,950
Inside the walls of Lugo
is St. Mary's Cathedral.
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00:18:58,950 --> 00:19:01,340
Just like Santiago de Compostela,
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00:19:01,340 --> 00:19:04,830
it was built, bit by bit,
over several centuries
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00:19:04,830 --> 00:19:06,963
beginning in 1129.
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00:19:12,800 --> 00:19:16,180
The result is a beautiful
and unique potpourri
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00:19:16,180 --> 00:19:20,163
of Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque,
and Neoclassical elements.
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00:19:21,305 --> 00:19:24,472
(dreamy choral music)
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00:19:32,860 --> 00:19:34,577
Moving south through green fields
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00:19:34,577 --> 00:19:37,040
in the Adontero valley of Galicia,
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00:19:37,040 --> 00:19:39,470
we find the isolated and majestic
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00:19:39,470 --> 00:19:43,387
Trappist Monastery of Santa
Maria La Real of Oseira.
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00:19:50,963 --> 00:19:54,040
Considered by many to be a high watermark
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00:19:54,040 --> 00:19:57,170
of Romanesque architecture
on the Iberian Peninsula,
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00:19:57,170 --> 00:20:01,300
it was originally founded
by French monks in 1137,
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00:20:01,300 --> 00:20:03,583
though added to over the centuries.
297
00:20:16,620 --> 00:20:21,620
The monastery was destroyed
in 1552 by a terrible fire,
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00:20:21,800 --> 00:20:24,260
but the restoration got quickly underway
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00:20:24,260 --> 00:20:25,473
the following year.
300
00:20:26,450 --> 00:20:30,310
Much later, in 1835, the
monks were all expelled
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00:20:30,310 --> 00:20:32,670
from the land as a result of a law
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00:20:32,670 --> 00:20:35,543
which privatized monastic
properties in Spain.
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00:20:37,600 --> 00:20:41,520
This place remained abandoned
for nearly 100 years
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00:20:41,520 --> 00:20:44,070
until French and Spanish Cistercian monks
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00:20:44,070 --> 00:20:49,070
returned in 1929 and rebuilt
the badly dilapidated church.
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00:20:57,110 --> 00:21:00,200
The 14 monks who currently
inhabit the monastery
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00:21:00,200 --> 00:21:02,630
walk in the footsteps of their forebearers
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00:21:02,630 --> 00:21:05,770
and continue the tradition
of distilling a fine liqueur
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00:21:05,770 --> 00:21:09,470
made from three distinct
varieties of eucalyptus leaves
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00:21:09,470 --> 00:21:11,423
grown right here on these lands.
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00:21:27,960 --> 00:21:30,580
Not far away is the River Minho
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00:21:30,580 --> 00:21:33,273
bending its way through
the Spanish countryside.
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00:21:34,570 --> 00:21:37,000
The longest in Galicia, the Minho
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runs for 340 kilometers,
watering vineyards and farmlands,
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00:21:41,600 --> 00:21:43,890
and providing hydroelectric energy
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00:21:43,890 --> 00:21:45,673
at its three reservoirs.
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00:21:46,830 --> 00:21:49,360
Only a few kilometers away, though,
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00:21:49,360 --> 00:21:51,443
is a much greater source of power.
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00:21:53,160 --> 00:21:57,280
Only completed in 2013, Santo Estavo Dam
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00:21:57,280 --> 00:22:00,100
is Galicia's largest hydroelectric plant,
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00:22:00,100 --> 00:22:04,343
generating energy for some 285,000 homes.
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00:22:10,630 --> 00:22:13,150
Following the river Sil west from the dam,
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00:22:13,150 --> 00:22:16,010
and deeper into the Ribeira Sacra region,
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00:22:16,010 --> 00:22:19,090
we find, hidden behind
a curtain of forest,
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00:22:19,090 --> 00:22:22,253
the very remote Santo Estevo Monastery.
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00:22:23,402 --> 00:22:26,402
(holy choral music)
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00:22:28,220 --> 00:22:30,020
Believed to have been
founded between the sixth
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00:22:30,020 --> 00:22:32,790
and seventh centuries,
the monastery features
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00:22:32,790 --> 00:22:37,100
three distinct cloisters
in three diverse styles,
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00:22:37,100 --> 00:22:40,723
one Romanesque, one Gothic,
and one Renaissance.
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00:22:42,200 --> 00:22:44,740
Declared a monument of
historical and artistic
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00:22:44,740 --> 00:22:49,010
significance in 1923, the
monastery has now been converted
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00:22:49,010 --> 00:22:53,380
into what's called a parador,
a type of luxury hotel
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00:22:53,380 --> 00:22:56,103
located in grand historic buildings.
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00:22:57,270 --> 00:23:00,760
Today, travelers can live a
decidedly more lavish lifestyle
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00:23:00,760 --> 00:23:03,303
here than those the monks once knew.
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00:23:04,630 --> 00:23:08,700
One can lounge in one
of the 77 guest rooms,
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00:23:08,700 --> 00:23:12,670
take a spa day, or dine
on fish freshly caught
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00:23:12,670 --> 00:23:15,020
from the river at the terrace restaurant
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00:23:15,020 --> 00:23:16,793
overlooking the chestnut forest.
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00:23:20,750 --> 00:23:23,740
For a truly ancient and
opulent religious experience,
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00:23:23,740 --> 00:23:26,630
though, we head towards
the border with Portugal
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00:23:26,630 --> 00:23:28,510
to find the Benedictine monastery
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00:23:28,510 --> 00:23:30,423
of San Salvador de Celanova.
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00:23:32,220 --> 00:23:35,990
Founded by St. Rudesind in 936 A.D.,
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00:23:35,990 --> 00:23:39,260
the abbey features as
its most prized treasure,
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00:23:39,260 --> 00:23:41,280
the chapel of San Miguel,
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00:23:41,280 --> 00:23:44,740
which dates back to
942, making it not only
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00:23:44,740 --> 00:23:46,540
one of the oldest in the country,
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00:23:46,540 --> 00:23:49,180
but the only Medieval Spanish monument
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00:23:49,180 --> 00:23:52,190
to remain intact and without restoration
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00:23:52,190 --> 00:23:54,083
since the 10th century.
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00:23:56,840 --> 00:23:58,870
Much of the monastery was rebuilt
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00:23:58,870 --> 00:24:03,490
in the 16th and 17th centuries,
including the abbot's facade
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00:24:03,490 --> 00:24:08,280
which makes up one entire side
of Celanova's town square.
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00:24:08,280 --> 00:24:11,697
(inspiring choral music)
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00:24:15,260 --> 00:24:18,830
Taken as a whole, the
monastery complex is, for many,
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00:24:18,830 --> 00:24:22,360
the single best example
of baroque architecture
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00:24:22,360 --> 00:24:24,393
in this part of northern Spain.
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00:24:33,608 --> 00:24:36,700
(rousing music)
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00:24:36,700 --> 00:24:38,300
Our final stop on this journey
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00:24:38,300 --> 00:24:41,896
brings us to the gates
of Monterrei Castle,
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00:24:41,896 --> 00:24:45,560
only 10 minutes from the
border with Portugal.
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00:24:45,560 --> 00:24:48,570
Built in the 12th century,
and completely surrounded
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00:24:48,570 --> 00:24:51,500
by not one, but three castle walls,
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00:24:51,500 --> 00:24:54,110
this fortress was specifically built
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00:24:54,110 --> 00:24:55,920
for its strategic location
368
00:24:55,920 --> 00:24:58,143
during the Portuguese Spanish wars.
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00:24:59,490 --> 00:25:01,770
More than just a military fortification,
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00:25:01,770 --> 00:25:04,760
the castle also contained a monastery
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00:25:04,760 --> 00:25:06,063
as well as a hospital.
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00:25:07,600 --> 00:25:11,280
Declared a national monument in 931,
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00:25:11,280 --> 00:25:15,180
Monterrei also holds a place
of great literary significance
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00:25:15,180 --> 00:25:18,753
as the home of the first
printing press in Galicia.
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00:25:20,250 --> 00:25:23,580
For its ancient stone beauty,
its cultural heritage,
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00:25:23,580 --> 00:25:26,750
and its brute strength, Monterrei Castle
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00:25:26,750 --> 00:25:29,200
is a magnificent site,
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00:25:29,200 --> 00:25:32,433
and it's a perfect place
to end this journey.
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00:25:35,162 --> 00:25:37,912
(exciting music)
30648
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