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(lively music)
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- Our journey begins in Donegal,
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the one time capital of a Gaelic kingdom.
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Before moving west, along the coast,
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to where the world's finest
oysters are cultivated.
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We'll trace the shoreline
of the Wild Atlantic Way,
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stop off at Killybegs, the
nations largest fishing port
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and continue on to the highest cliffs
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in Ireland at Slieve League.
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From there, we'll turn
north to find extraordinary
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pristine beaches and then
take a look at the bog lands,
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where peat turf, Ireland's most
important fuel is harvested.
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00:01:44,963 --> 00:01:49,963
At Malin Head, the Northern
tip of the Irish mainland,
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we'll head back south to
learn the dramatic history
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of Glenveah Castle.
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It's then back to the east,
where we'll conclude our journey
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00:02:00,318 --> 00:02:04,090
at one of the Emerald Isles
most significant archeological
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sites, The Grianan of Aileach.
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00:02:11,520 --> 00:02:14,850
Isolated beneath dense fogs
in the North of Ireland
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is the town of Donegal.
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Steeped in history, as
well as natural beauty,
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it remains incredibly unspoiled
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and unusually connected to it's rich past.
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In the center of the town,
overlooking a gentle bend
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in the river Esque, is Donegal Castle.
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Built in 1474 by the O'Donnell clan,
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one of the most powerful
families in Ireland,
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this keep would remain the stronghold of
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the Lords of Tír Conaill
until the infamous 1607
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Flight of the Earls
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when Rory O'Donnell fled to France
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to avoid capture by
English Protestant forces
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and set fire to the castle.
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In 1623 it was rebuilt and a three story
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Jacobean manor house added on the side.
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00:03:05,310 --> 00:03:08,116
In the 1990's, it was
painstakingly restored
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using techniques and materials
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true to it's original
17th century construction.
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The town has given it's name
to the county of Donegal
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and even today around a
third of it's population
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still speaks Gaelic as
it's common language.
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Just to the side of the
town is Donegal Bay.
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Infamously the site of
a 1979 assassination
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when the Irish Republican Army
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bombed Earl Mountbatten of Burma's boat.
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Though the waters looks still,
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thanks to its Westward facing geography
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and its funnel shape,
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the beaches here offer
some of the best surfing
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00:03:56,570 --> 00:03:57,663
in all of Europe.
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00:04:05,070 --> 00:04:08,193
More than 99 hectares are
given over to row after row
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00:04:08,193 --> 00:04:11,223
of carefully cultivated oyster beds.
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Here, near constant rainfall,
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00:04:16,490 --> 00:04:19,246
runs through the nutrient
rich granite and limestone
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of the Blue Stack Mountains
and down into the bay
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where it mixes with the
salty oceanic waters
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to create 2,000 metric tons a year
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of what many have described as
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the best tasting oysters in the world.
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00:04:40,110 --> 00:04:43,010
The long rugged coastline of Donegal Bay
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stretches for 80 kilometers
of dramatic, steep,
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plunging cliffs mingled with
vast golden sandy beaches.
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00:04:54,060 --> 00:04:56,540
While the straight lines denote oysters,
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circles like these belong to fish farms.
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The large round nets called Pens
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00:05:02,460 --> 00:05:05,523
are where the farmed
fish are actually reared.
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00:05:08,960 --> 00:05:12,250
They are moored at specific
locations in the Bay,
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where the water flow
is particularly strong
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creating the most favorable conditions
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for a young salmon to grow
into a delicious dinner.
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Moving west, we arrive in
the nearby town of Killybegs,
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the largest fishing port in Ireland
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and home to the nations
most impressive trollers.
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In all, fisherman here land
more than 100,000 metric tons
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of fish each year, accounting for 45%
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of all catches by Irish vessels.
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A natural deep water harbor, Killybegs,
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receives and launches
more than just anglers
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from its new 75 million dollar pier.
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It's also a dock for
commercial cruise liners,
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cargo ships and functions
as a service port
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for off-shore oil and gas drilling rigs.
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The ships are not the only
things that are huge here.
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The town is also home to
the largest carpet loom
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in the world.
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The Turkish style rugs made here,
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are renowned around the
globe and have decorated
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some very important buildings
including Buckingham Palace,
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The Vatican, 10 Downing
Street and The White House.
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00:06:33,290 --> 00:06:35,697
Further to the west, we find the serene
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deep coastal waters of
the small town of Teelin.
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One of the earliest
settlements in the country,
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it was only a little
more than 100 years ago
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that Teelin, not
Killybegs was the premiere
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fishing village in Ireland.
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And standing like a weathered
sentinel over the bay,
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as it is done for 200 years,
is an old watch tower.
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Built in the early 19th century
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to defend the Northwest coast
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from the looming threat
of Napoleon Bonaparte.
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The tower is one of a series of lookouts,
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originally manned by
an English naval force
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called the Sea Fencibles, atop
the spectacular multicolor
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cliffs of Slieve League.
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Plummeting 600 meters to the
fierce Atlantic waters below,
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these are the highest
sea cliffs in Ireland
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and among the tallest in all of Europe.
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Considered sacred ground by many,
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Slieve League has born
witness to 1,000 years
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of Christian monastic
journeys to its clifftops.
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The fame and frequency of
these religious expeditions
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have given the path to the
highest point on the precipice,
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the name Pilgrims Pass.
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(soft music)
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At the base of the cliffs,
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there's a single pristine white sand beach
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that is accessible only by boat,
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offering adventurous sun bathers
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a uniquely gorgeous and
solitary experience.
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Beach goers can soak up rays
without another soul in sight,
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except maybe a few of the playful seals
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that regularly gather here.
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Though Ireland remained officially neutral
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during the second World War,
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they did strike a number of accords
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including one to provide the allied forces
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with a free fly zone
called the Donegal Corridor
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which led directly over these mountains
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and out into the Atlantic.
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To help pilots navigate the passageway,
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stones were painted
bright white and arranged
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throughout the terrain
to spell out Éireann,
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the Gaelic word for Ireland.
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00:09:18,510 --> 00:09:21,160
Measurements of the exact
length of Ireland shoreline
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differ wildly due to the
jagged shape of the island.
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While some sources place
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the total distance of 3,171 kilometers,
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others estimate the length
of 6,347 kilometers.
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A perfect example of the
jagged nature of the island
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can be found here, in the
dramatically rocky inlet of
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Glencolumbkille Bay.
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This area was first
inhabited in 4,000 B.C.
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and several of those early settlers tombs
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have been beautifully preserved
and can still be seen today.
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A little up the shore atop a
rock face called Glen Head,
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we find another of the watchtowers
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built to defend the
island from French forces
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during the Napoleonic Wars.
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Originally, this was part
of a network of 12 towers,
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stretching 138 kilometers
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from St. John's Point to Malin Head.
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The shared cliffs and idea
lic inlets of these waters
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have inspired many artists
throughout the years.
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With Sir Arnold Bax,
Master of the King's Music,
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writing in 1883, "I like to
fancy that on my deathbed
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my last vision in this
life will the the scene
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from my window on the upper
floor at Glencolumbkille
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of the still brooding dove gray mystery
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of the Atlantic at twilight.
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Moving Northwest, we cross
a sparse open expanse
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of typical Irish countryside.
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In all, Ireland is home to
more than 12,000 distinct lakes
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while boglands make up 5%
of the nations landscape,
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more than any other country in Europe.
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Ireland is in fact a very
wet country in general.
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Here in the west, the land can see rain
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as often as 225 days of the year.
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The constant precipitation
feeds the lush rolling hills
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of green grass that blanket
the small humid island,
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of which have given the country
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the very well known
nickname, The Emerald Isle.
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The Donegal Coast however, is
more sapphire than emerald.
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Only a two-hour drive from Belfast,
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this landscape is simultaneously
very close to and a
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world away from the trappings
and noise of modern life.
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These remote swages of
verdant countryside,
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deep blue bays and desolate white beaches
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compose the Northern
leg of the striking path
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known as The Wild Atlantic Way.
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00:12:29,800 --> 00:12:33,020
For people looking for
quiet serene solitude
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00:12:33,020 --> 00:12:37,940
and 360 degree panoramas
of spectacular open beauty,
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it's hard to imagine a more perfect spot.
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To get even further
away, a short ferry ride
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can find you on the
shores of Éireann Islands,
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where Gaelic is still the
primary language of choice.
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Located at the mouth of Galway Bay,
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they were formed by compressed sediments
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in a tropical sea some
350 million years ago.
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Turning back North to the mainland,
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we pass over the majestic and stark region
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known as the Rosses.
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Binded by rivers to the north and south,
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mountains to the east and the
Atlantic Ocean to the west,
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this are is separated from
the rest of County Donegal
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by culture as well as geography.
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Here for example, the 16,000
Irish speaking men and women
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still prefer Gaelic football to soccer.
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The Rosses also boast
the county's only airport
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which can be seen in the
distance as we make our approach.
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It began as a simple strip of grassland,
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just long enough to land a small plane,
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but the Donegal's airport runway
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00:13:56,490 --> 00:14:00,840
was finally converted to a
hard surface in the mid 1980's
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00:14:00,840 --> 00:14:04,343
and further extended and
modernized in the 1990's.
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00:14:06,200 --> 00:14:09,650
The small airfield is serviced
by only a single airline,
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00:14:09,650 --> 00:14:14,240
flying exclusively to and from
the capital city of Dublin.
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00:14:14,240 --> 00:14:17,620
However, nearly 40,000 travelers will pass
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00:14:17,620 --> 00:14:19,280
through these gates and into
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00:14:19,280 --> 00:14:21,993
the Wild Atlantic Way each year.
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Having refueled, we
continue north passing over
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several of the beautiful islands
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that freckle the Irish coast including one
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00:14:33,047 --> 00:14:36,703
whose beauty portrays a tragic past.
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00:14:38,140 --> 00:14:40,400
In the 18th and 19th centuries,
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00:14:40,400 --> 00:14:42,960
on the isle known as Oileán Na Marbh
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or Island of the Dead,
more than 500 infants
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were buried without ceremony
on unconsecrated ground.
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00:14:52,340 --> 00:14:55,360
The children died before
they could be baptized
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00:14:55,360 --> 00:14:57,922
and were taken away in the cover of night,
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00:14:57,922 --> 00:15:01,330
placed in unmarked graves and forgotten.
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00:15:01,330 --> 00:15:05,143
Their families ordered to
grieve silently if at all.
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00:15:06,190 --> 00:15:08,319
Today though, the children buried here
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00:15:08,319 --> 00:15:10,640
are finally remembered.
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In 2011, a cross was
erected in their honor.
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00:15:18,424 --> 00:15:21,007
(lively music)
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00:15:24,050 --> 00:15:27,680
Further north, we find the
wetlands of blanket bogs
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where peat turf is
cultivated on a huge scale
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for a number of domestic
and industrial purposes.
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00:15:35,430 --> 00:15:39,320
Habitats like these are rare,
with Ireland laying claim
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00:15:39,320 --> 00:15:42,104
to an enormous 8% of the entire worlds
231
00:15:42,104 --> 00:15:44,343
blanket bog ecosystems.
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00:15:45,520 --> 00:15:47,587
Their formation in the
west of the country,
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00:15:47,587 --> 00:15:51,789
began 10,000 years ago at
the end of the last ice age,
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00:15:51,789 --> 00:15:55,193
covering huge areas of
poorly drained land.
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00:15:56,730 --> 00:15:58,840
Through most of history the peat bogs
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00:15:58,840 --> 00:16:03,130
were seen as miserable wasteland,
but in the 17th century
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00:16:03,130 --> 00:16:06,600
the value of the turf was
beginning to be recognized.
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00:16:06,600 --> 00:16:08,200
By the 18th century,
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00:16:08,200 --> 00:16:11,970
peat was the primary
source of fuel in Ireland.
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00:16:16,750 --> 00:16:20,920
During World War II, coal
imports became alarmingly scarce,
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00:16:20,920 --> 00:16:22,760
so a number of projects were designed
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00:16:22,760 --> 00:16:24,373
to develop and distribute turf.
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00:16:25,520 --> 00:16:28,019
As a result, there was
not a single Irish death
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00:16:28,019 --> 00:16:31,253
attributed to cold during the conflict.
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00:16:34,799 --> 00:16:39,350
Today, Ireland is home to
three peat-fired power stations
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00:16:39,350 --> 00:16:42,470
that consume almost
four million metric tons
247
00:16:42,470 --> 00:16:43,893
of turf each year.
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00:16:45,310 --> 00:16:47,180
The peat bogs have a great deal
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00:16:47,180 --> 00:16:49,810
of environmental significance as well.
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00:16:49,810 --> 00:16:52,610
They serve as a home to a wide variety
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of plants and animals found
nowhere else in the country.
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00:17:03,080 --> 00:17:05,610
Moving further into the
headlands towards the tip
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00:17:05,610 --> 00:17:08,268
of the country, we reconnect with the sea
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00:17:08,268 --> 00:17:10,773
over beautiful pristine shores.
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00:17:17,470 --> 00:17:19,130
County Donegal has a coastline
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00:17:19,130 --> 00:17:22,880
that stretches over 1,235 kilometers
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00:17:22,880 --> 00:17:25,300
and is home to dozens of the most remote
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00:17:25,300 --> 00:17:29,023
and unspoiled white and
gold sand beaches in Europe.
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00:17:40,570 --> 00:17:44,380
13 have been awarded
prestigious Blue Flag status
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00:17:44,380 --> 00:17:47,660
by the Foundation of
Environmental Education,
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00:17:47,660 --> 00:17:49,763
more than any other county in Ireland.
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00:17:50,650 --> 00:17:53,900
This guarantees an
extraordinary high standard
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of water quality, safety and management.
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00:17:59,221 --> 00:18:01,638
(soft music)
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00:18:18,900 --> 00:18:21,340
As we make our way toward
the western-most point
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00:18:21,340 --> 00:18:24,210
in County Donegal, we pass directly
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00:18:24,210 --> 00:18:26,600
over the Horn Head Peninsula,
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00:18:26,600 --> 00:18:31,560
home of the famous blowhole
known as McSwynes Gun.
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00:18:31,560 --> 00:18:34,700
Though it's not quite as
powerful as it once was,
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00:18:34,700 --> 00:18:38,050
it's been known to rocket
water more than 17 meters
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00:18:38,050 --> 00:18:41,490
into the sky with a
crash that could be heard
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00:18:41,490 --> 00:18:46,320
for 16 kilometers, but sadly not today.
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00:18:46,320 --> 00:18:49,550
We also get a look at the
dramatic unblemished coast
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00:18:49,550 --> 00:18:51,701
of the Rosguill Peninsula.
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00:18:51,701 --> 00:18:55,850
These waters have recently
become a world class destination
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00:18:55,850 --> 00:18:59,207
for big-game fishing, where
boats are often chartered
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00:18:59,207 --> 00:19:02,923
on the hunt for sharks
and giant bluefin tuna.
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00:19:04,700 --> 00:19:09,200
This peninsula is also home
to Old Tom Morris Links,
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00:19:09,200 --> 00:19:12,330
a golf course with more
than 100 years of history
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00:19:12,330 --> 00:19:15,893
that has hosted the likes of
John Wayne and Errol Flynn.
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00:19:20,920 --> 00:19:23,430
Gaining height, we rise into the clouds
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00:19:23,430 --> 00:19:26,283
and look down at Ballyhiernan Bay.
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00:19:28,440 --> 00:19:31,480
Clouds are every bit as
iconic to the Emerald Isle
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00:19:31,480 --> 00:19:34,630
as Guinness and shamrocks,
with Irish skies
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00:19:34,630 --> 00:19:39,093
being completely overcast
well over 50% of the time.
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00:19:43,644 --> 00:19:47,260
Ireland even has its own
Cloud Appreciation Society,
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00:19:47,260 --> 00:19:51,915
and and annual Cloud Festival
which is held each July
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00:19:51,915 --> 00:19:55,083
right here in the beautiful Northwest.
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00:20:03,960 --> 00:20:06,960
In the distance is Malin
Head, the northern-most
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00:20:06,960 --> 00:20:09,460
point on the Irish mainland.
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00:20:09,460 --> 00:20:12,210
It's violent waters have
claimed more ocean liners
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00:20:12,210 --> 00:20:15,723
and German U-boats than any
other stretch of coastline.
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00:20:18,680 --> 00:20:23,120
A particular interest to
many is the SS Laurentic.
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00:20:23,120 --> 00:20:26,250
She struck two German
mines in these waters
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00:20:26,250 --> 00:20:31,250
on January the 25th 1917 and
sank in less than an hour,
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00:20:31,908 --> 00:20:36,908
taking with her 354 souls
and 43 tons of gold ingus.
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00:20:39,940 --> 00:20:42,561
Most of the treasure has
since been recovered,
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00:20:42,561 --> 00:20:47,433
but 22 gold bars still
remain unaccounted for.
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00:20:52,000 --> 00:20:54,458
Turning away from the
coast and sharply inland
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00:20:54,458 --> 00:20:58,313
to the southeast, we
head towards Lough Bay.
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00:21:13,410 --> 00:21:16,700
It runs for five kilometers
right through the heart
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00:21:16,700 --> 00:21:18,623
of Ireland's largest national park.
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00:21:21,488 --> 00:21:25,087
On the east bank is the
imposing Glenveah Castle.
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00:21:33,800 --> 00:21:36,190
Modeled after Balmoral Castle,
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00:21:36,190 --> 00:21:38,790
the British Royal
Family's Scottish getaway,
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00:21:38,790 --> 00:21:43,790
Gelnveah was built in the
1870's by John George Adair,
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00:21:43,910 --> 00:21:46,560
a man whose very name was once a curse
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00:21:46,560 --> 00:21:48,793
on the tongues of the people of Ireland.
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00:21:51,260 --> 00:21:54,050
Black Jack Adair as he was known,
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00:21:54,050 --> 00:21:57,350
made a fortune on land
speculation in the United States
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00:21:57,350 --> 00:22:00,910
and returned to Donegal,
where he purchased huge tracts
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00:22:00,910 --> 00:22:03,500
of land and promptly went to work
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00:22:03,500 --> 00:22:06,713
evicting all of the men and
women who were living on it.
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00:22:08,490 --> 00:22:11,049
On St. Patrick's Day 1861,
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00:22:11,049 --> 00:22:13,924
with the help of some 200 police officers,
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00:22:13,924 --> 00:22:17,844
Adair visited 46 homes,
turning people out,
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00:22:17,844 --> 00:22:20,647
and in many cases demolishing the houses
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00:22:20,647 --> 00:22:24,250
to ensure the tenants could not return.
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00:22:24,250 --> 00:22:29,095
In just one day, he left
244 people homeless,
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00:22:29,095 --> 00:22:33,003
including 159 children.
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00:22:34,190 --> 00:22:36,670
After his death, Black Jack's wife
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00:22:36,670 --> 00:22:38,779
built a monument to him on the estate,
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00:22:38,779 --> 00:22:41,630
but it is no longer standing.
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00:22:41,630 --> 00:22:44,740
Local legends say it
was struck by lightning
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00:22:44,740 --> 00:22:46,433
and crumbled into the lake.
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00:22:51,602 --> 00:22:53,790
In 1937, the castle was acquired
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00:22:53,790 --> 00:22:56,950
by Philadelphia millionaire,
Henry McIlhenny,
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00:22:56,950 --> 00:23:00,537
who in 1981 bequeathed
it to the Irish people,
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00:23:00,537 --> 00:23:05,537
the very men and women
Black Jack Adair despised.
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00:23:05,860 --> 00:23:09,773
A fitting irony for one of the
worst landlords in history.
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00:23:13,899 --> 00:23:17,920
Further to the east, on our
way to our final destination,
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00:23:17,920 --> 00:23:21,980
we cross over Lough Swilly,
a deep glacial fjord,
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00:23:21,980 --> 00:23:24,817
whose name translates
to both lake of shadows
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00:23:24,817 --> 00:23:26,893
and lake of eyes.
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00:23:31,250 --> 00:23:34,130
On the edge of the upper
reaches of the lough,
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00:23:34,130 --> 00:23:37,290
on top of a hill we find the ancient site
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00:23:37,290 --> 00:23:38,390
of Grianan of Aileach.
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00:23:48,460 --> 00:23:50,770
Built almost completely without mortar,
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00:23:50,770 --> 00:23:54,593
the dry stone ring fort was
erected in the 8th century A.D.
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00:23:55,560 --> 00:24:00,463
But the site itself seems to
date back as far as 1700 B.C.
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00:24:01,450 --> 00:24:04,160
Since then, this place
has served as a seat
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00:24:04,160 --> 00:24:07,700
of the Kingdom of Aelic as
well as one of the royal sites
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00:24:07,700 --> 00:24:09,413
of the Gaelic Kings of Ireland.
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00:24:11,210 --> 00:24:14,570
By the 12th century, the
Kingdom of Aelic was under siege
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00:24:14,570 --> 00:24:18,383
by the invading Normans
and in the year 1101,
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00:24:18,383 --> 00:24:21,916
the King of Munster destroyed
much of the ring fort
347
00:24:21,916 --> 00:24:24,480
and it remained in ruins until
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00:24:24,480 --> 00:24:28,183
a massive restoration
effort was begun in 1870.
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00:24:30,230 --> 00:24:33,910
It has an internal diameter of 23 meters
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00:24:33,910 --> 00:24:38,113
with walls that are four meters
thick and five meters high.
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00:24:40,980 --> 00:24:44,870
The sight is steeped in
both mythology and history,
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00:24:44,870 --> 00:24:48,450
but sometimes the two are
difficult to separate.
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00:24:48,450 --> 00:24:51,500
Many of the famous stories
revolve around St. Patrick
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00:24:51,500 --> 00:24:55,300
traveling here to baptize
Prince Owen into his faith
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00:24:55,300 --> 00:24:58,260
leading the Prince to
turn his entire clan away
356
00:24:58,260 --> 00:25:01,803
from their Pagan ancestry
and towards Christianity.
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00:25:08,370 --> 00:25:12,240
Its ancient beauty, its
connection to Irish history,
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00:25:12,240 --> 00:25:15,410
and its wealth of culturally
significant stories
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00:25:15,410 --> 00:25:18,660
makes Grianan of Aileach
one of the most important
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00:25:18,660 --> 00:25:20,520
and intriguing places in Ireland
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00:25:21,400 --> 00:25:24,733
and it's the perfect
place to end this journey.
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00:25:35,544 --> 00:25:38,127
(lively music)
29907
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