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(dramatic upbeat music)
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- Our journey
begins in the Scottish Lowlands
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at Threave Castle,
which once stood witness
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to centuries of turmoil along the borders.
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We cross over into
England to visit Carlisle,
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home to the most besieged
castle in the British Isles,
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and then make our way along Hadrian's Wall
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to Housesteads Roman Fort.
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We take a look at Cragside,
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one of the world's first homes
to be lit by electricity.
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On the Northumberland Coast,
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we pass by several impressive castles,
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including Dunstanburgh, which has served
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as an inspiration for Arthurian legends.
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We stop at the English border
town of Berwick-upon-Tweed,
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with its impressive Tudor fortifications,
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before heading west along the River Tweed
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to end our journey at Smailholm Tower,
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one of the boyhood homes
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of Scottish writer Sir Walter Scott.
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(dramatic music)
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To visit Threave Castle on
an island in the River Dee,
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you have to ring an old brass bell
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that summons a boatman
to ferry you across.
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Despite its ancient charm,
it stands as a testament
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to Scotland's long, brutal civil wars,
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as well as battles for
independence from the English.
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The castle we see today was built
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at the end of the 14th century
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by the powerful Archibald Douglas,
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known as Archibald the
Grim, the Lord of Galloway.
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In 1455, it was subject
to a two-month siege
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by King James II of Scotland,
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who took possession of the castle
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and turned it into a royal fortress.
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In the early 19th
century, Threave was used
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to house French prisoners
from the Napoleonic Wars,
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and then gradually fell into disrepair
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until 1913 when it was
handed over to the state.
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To the east is Caerlaverock Castle,
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whose sturdiness belies
its fragile history.
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It fell to the English several times
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in the Scottish Wars of Independence,
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but its most famous siege was in 1300,
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when 60 men held the forces
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of King Edward I of England
at bay before surrendering.
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With its impressive moat,
this rare triangular castle
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stands as a perfect example
of a medieval stronghold.
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(dramatic music)
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By 1237, the Scottish
border had been established,
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but it would remain a lawless territory
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for centuries to come.
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It was overrun by the Border Reivers,
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who carried out repeated
raids on both sides,
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keeping castles like Caerlaverock busy.
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Hundreds of years pass
before order was restored,
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which eventually came about as a result
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of the 1707 Acts of Union,
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which united England and
Scotland in a new Great Britain.
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Nearby is Repentance Tower,
which stands on the grounds
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of Hoddam Castle in Dumfriesshire.
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It was built as a
watchtower by John Maxwell,
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and its name alludes to the
guilt he felt for past misdeeds.
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He had switched his loyalties
to the Scots in 1548
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when the English captured Dumfriesshire
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and 12 Scottish hostages
were killed as a result,
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including a young nephew.
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Standing on Trailtrow Hill,
the fortified watchtower
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was built to warn the castle
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if an English raiding
party crossed the border.
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Today, it's a great place
to take in the views.
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Heading south, we cross the mudflats
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of the Solway Firth into England
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and find the town of Carlisle,
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whose history was built by conquerors.
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Founded by the Romans,
sacked by the Vikings,
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captured by the Saxons,
and claimed by the Scots,
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the town didn't firmly establish
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its English identity until 1603.
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For 500 years, Carlisle Castle
was the principal fortress
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of England's Western
March against Scotland.
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Attacked 10 times in its history,
today it stands as one of
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the most besieged places
in the British Isles.
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It's been in continuous
use since the first stone
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was laid by King William II in 1092.
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We now follow one of Britain's
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best-loved monuments, Hadrian's Wall.
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(triumphant music)
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It once stretched between the
North Sea and the Irish Sea,
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118 kilometers in length,
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and built from 18 million
blocks of local stone.
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The wall stands as one
of the greatest monuments
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to the power of the Roman Empire.
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It was constructed by the
emperor Hadrian in 122 AD
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as a way to separate
Romans from barbarians,
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and took six years to complete.
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Skilled auxiliary soldiers
built a system of small forts
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every Roman mile along the wall's length,
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with towers every 1/3 of a mile.
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16 large forts were
also built into the wall
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that could hold up to 1,000 troops
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with modern comforts such
as latrines and washrooms.
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The wall defined the northern
end of the Roman Empire,
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where Britannia stopped and
where the barbarian land
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that would one day be Scotland began.
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It was designated as a
UNESCO World Heritage Site
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and efforts are underway
to repair parts of the wall
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that have been pillaged by locals
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over the centuries or left to erode.
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Today, it makes for a marvelous
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long-distance footpath for hikers,
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stretching nearly 135 kilometers
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through the remote English countryside.
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Set high on a dramatic escarpment
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stands Housesteads Roman Fort,
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one of the best-preserved along the wall.
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An infantry regiment of 800 strong
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garrisoned this place for
nearly 300 years of Roman rule
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and were charged with defending the empire
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from the Picts to the north,
who resisted their invasion.
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Hadrian's Wall was the furthest point
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from Rome in the empire,
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and it was not a coveted
post for a soldier
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to be stationed at the end of the world.
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Well-preserved artifacts
like leather boots,
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tools, and stone inscriptions
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have been found by archeologists,
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giving colorful insight into
the daily life of a soldier.
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Housesteads' remains also include
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an impressive hospital,
granaries, stables, and workshops.
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Perhaps most memorable for visitors
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are the soldiers' communal
and flushable latrines,
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complete with a lovely view.
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One of the great rewards
of visiting the site
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is the landscape, with its rolling hills
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and the nearby forbidding
Steel Rigg cliffs.
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We continue our journey northeast
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into the Northumberland countryside,
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with its heather-covered
moorlands and ancient meadows,
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and find the Cragside estate,
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hidden in a forest of
nearly seven million trees.
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Once owned by Victorian inventor
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and industrialist William Armstrong,
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it was the first house in the world
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to be lit by hydroelectricity in 1880,
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when it was described as the
palace of the modern magician.
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Armstrong was a national hero in his day,
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producing hydraulic cranes,
ships, and armaments,
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and he was the inventor
of the swing bridge.
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An avid environmentalist,
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he planted seven million
trees and shrubs on his estate
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and advocated the use of
solar energy and water power,
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ideas that were far ahead of their time.
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Armstrong's ambition also
extended to the grounds,
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which boasted five
lakes, extensive gardens,
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and 45 kilometers of walking trails.
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Our next stop is Warkworth,
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the magnificent cross-shaped castle
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looking over a town of the same name,
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which is nestled in a
loop of the Coquet River.
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The fortress dates back
to the 12th century,
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and over the decades has
passed back and forth
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between the powerful Percy
family and the Crown.
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This was a structure built to defend
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against a Scottish invasion.
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The town grew up in the
shadow of the castle,
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and its medieval history is well-preserved
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by the long, narrow
gardens behind the houses,
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a vestige of medieval property divisions.
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(dramatic music)
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Perhaps the castle's most famous resident
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was Sir Harry Hotspur,
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known as one of the most
valiant knights of his day,
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and a captain during
the Anglo-Scottish Wars.
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Even when the castle fell into decline,
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it was celebrated by William Shakespeare
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as a setting in several scenes
of his "Henry IV" plays,
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written in 1597.
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Hotspur lives in infamy as one of
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the best-known characters
in Shakespeare's drama.
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Moving inland, we come to Alnwick Castle.
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(gentle music)
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This is the ancestral
home of the Percy family,
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whose history is as infamous
as the building itself.
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It's the second-largest
inhabited fortress in the UK,
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after the royal Windsor Castle.
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The Percys have played key
roles throughout English history
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and boast a family line
of intriguing characters.
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They've been earls and dukes
of Northumberland since 1309,
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and their ancestors include knights,
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kingmakers, and battle-hardened warriors.
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One was executed for high treason in 1553.
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Alnwick is a storybook castle.
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It's been featured in several
movies and television shows,
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including "Harry Potter" and
an episode of "Downton Abbey."
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Today it welcomes 800,000 visitors a year
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who come to see the lavish interior
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and the beautifully-restored gardens.
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Back on the Northumberland Coast
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lies a romantic ruin suited
for poets and painters.
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(dramatic music)
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Dunstanburgh Castle was
once one of the largest
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and grandest fortifications
in Northern England.
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It was built early in the 14th century
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by Thomas, Earl of Lancaster,
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but occupation of the site
had begun in the Iron Age.
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Lancaster began the fortress in 1313
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and the latest research
reveals that he built it
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on a far grander scale than
was originally recognized,
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perhaps as a symbol of his
opposition to King Edward II.
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Earl Thomas was executed for his role
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in the rebellion against the king,
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and the next phase of renovation
came under John of Gaunt,
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who acquired the castle
and sought to modernize it.
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During the following centuries,
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it gradually fell into ruins,
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but its massive gatehouse
and tower survive,
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making an imposing view for visitors
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as they absorb the sense of
history in these ancient stones.
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The Northumberland Coast is a haven
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for holidaymakers as
well as nature-lovers.
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It is designated as an Area
of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
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There's 100 miles of
unspoiled sandy beaches,
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grass-covered dunes,
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and the Farne Islands
lying just off the coast.
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Overlooking the beach is
another mighty castle,
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towering 45 meters above the
sea on a volcanic outcrop.
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Bamburgh.
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00:15:16,541 --> 00:15:21,541
(ethereal music)
(singers vocalizing)
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It's often referred to as the
foundation stone of England,
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and was once home to a
succession of Northumbrian kings.
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Legend tells that it may
also be a possible site
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of Lancelot's mythical
castle Joyous Garde.
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True or not, this place played a key role
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in the border wars of the
13th and 14th centuries
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between England and Scotland.
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And in 1464, it was the
first English castle
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00:15:51,110 --> 00:15:54,760
to fall to artillery during
the Wars of the Roses,
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when two English dynasties
fought for the crown.
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It was meticulously
restored in the 19th century
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00:16:04,940 --> 00:16:08,190
by the great industrialist
William Armstrong,
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00:16:08,190 --> 00:16:12,013
and part of the castle is
still home to the family today.
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00:16:13,540 --> 00:16:17,080
The striking scenery takes top billing
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00:16:17,080 --> 00:16:20,750
and it's a setting worthy
of myths and legends,
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00:16:20,750 --> 00:16:22,770
and there are stories of ghosts
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that roam its towers at night.
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Along with miles of sandy beaches,
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the Northumberland Coast is also home
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to several protected wildlife
and habitat sanctuaries,
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a place for waders and wild fowl
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who come for the rich feeding grounds
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00:16:43,580 --> 00:16:45,923
provided by its dunes and marshes.
253
00:16:49,440 --> 00:16:53,180
The coast is also home to
a handful of small boats,
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00:16:53,180 --> 00:16:56,913
whose crews have been fishing
these waters for generations.
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00:16:59,310 --> 00:17:01,760
Ahead of us is Holy Island,
256
00:17:01,760 --> 00:17:05,896
and standing on a small rocky
outcrop is Lindisfarne Castle.
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00:17:05,896 --> 00:17:08,200
(bright music)
258
00:17:08,200 --> 00:17:10,300
It was begun in the 16th century
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00:17:10,300 --> 00:17:12,380
as one of the first military forts
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00:17:12,380 --> 00:17:15,170
by the Tudor king Henry VIII,
261
00:17:15,170 --> 00:17:18,860
and then completed by his
daughter, Queen Elizabeth.
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00:17:18,860 --> 00:17:20,910
It was designed to protect Holy Island's
263
00:17:20,910 --> 00:17:24,023
natural harbor from attacks by Scotland.
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00:17:25,470 --> 00:17:29,160
Like so many castles, it
later fell into disrepair,
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00:17:29,160 --> 00:17:31,070
and in the early 20th century,
266
00:17:31,070 --> 00:17:32,890
it was bought from the Crown
267
00:17:32,890 --> 00:17:36,070
and turned into a mock
castle and summer home
268
00:17:36,070 --> 00:17:38,960
for a wealthy publishing
magnate from London,
269
00:17:38,960 --> 00:17:41,623
by the architect Sir Edwin Lutyens.
270
00:17:42,680 --> 00:17:44,560
Holy Island once played host
271
00:17:44,560 --> 00:17:46,500
to one of the most important centers
272
00:17:46,500 --> 00:17:49,843
of early Christianity
in Anglo-Saxon England.
273
00:17:50,750 --> 00:17:53,400
It was the home and original burial ground
274
00:17:53,400 --> 00:17:56,520
of Saint Cuthbert, a great missionary monk
275
00:17:56,520 --> 00:17:59,753
and leader of the early
Christian church in this country.
276
00:18:01,410 --> 00:18:04,740
The monastery that once stood
here is the place of creation
277
00:18:04,740 --> 00:18:08,000
of the magnificent Lindisfarne Gospels,
278
00:18:08,000 --> 00:18:11,603
considered to be one of the
world's most precious books.
279
00:18:15,800 --> 00:18:19,210
Part of the charm of Holy
Island is getting there,
280
00:18:19,210 --> 00:18:22,895
as it's linked to the
mainland by a long causeway.
281
00:18:22,895 --> 00:18:25,478
(gentle music)
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00:18:27,700 --> 00:18:31,480
Twice each day, the tide
sweeps in from the North Sea
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00:18:31,480 --> 00:18:34,010
and quickly covers the road.
284
00:18:34,010 --> 00:18:37,040
Visitors must plan their trips around this
285
00:18:37,040 --> 00:18:39,603
and the errant whims of Mother Nature.
286
00:18:40,530 --> 00:18:42,410
The Coastguard occasionally rescues
287
00:18:42,410 --> 00:18:44,790
misguided tourists in their cars
288
00:18:44,790 --> 00:18:48,700
who have not heeded warnings
about the coming tide
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00:18:48,700 --> 00:18:51,170
and decide to make a dash for the island
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00:18:51,170 --> 00:18:53,813
outside of safe crossing times.
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00:18:57,055 --> 00:18:59,805
(dramatic music)
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00:19:02,530 --> 00:19:05,660
Ahead of us is England's
northernmost town,
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00:19:05,660 --> 00:19:08,720
the picturesque Berwick-upon-Tweed.
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00:19:08,720 --> 00:19:11,230
It was fought over for three centuries,
295
00:19:11,230 --> 00:19:13,860
changing hands between
the English and the Scots
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00:19:13,860 --> 00:19:16,173
no less than 13 times.
297
00:19:17,030 --> 00:19:19,810
It became a walled town
in the 14th century
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00:19:19,810 --> 00:19:22,370
under King Edward I when he fortified it
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00:19:22,370 --> 00:19:23,893
against Scottish attacks.
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00:19:24,840 --> 00:19:28,550
The original walls stretched
for more than three kilometers
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00:19:28,550 --> 00:19:31,990
and measured over six meters high,
302
00:19:31,990 --> 00:19:36,940
but by 1405 the fortifications
had fallen into disrepair
303
00:19:36,940 --> 00:19:41,210
and couldn't prevent Henry
IV from seizing the town.
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00:19:41,210 --> 00:19:43,843
It has remained English ever since.
305
00:19:48,830 --> 00:19:52,440
The 16th century ramparts
and bastions we see today
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00:19:52,440 --> 00:19:53,930
were constructed during the reign
307
00:19:53,930 --> 00:19:56,343
of Queen Elizabeth I of England.
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00:19:57,300 --> 00:20:01,340
They are the only example of
bastion town walls in Britain,
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00:20:01,340 --> 00:20:04,253
and one of the best-preserved
examples in Europe.
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00:20:10,720 --> 00:20:13,160
Today, Berwick-upon-Tweed is lauded
311
00:20:13,160 --> 00:20:16,990
as one of the most picturesque
towns on the region's coast,
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00:20:16,990 --> 00:20:18,910
with its red-roofed houses
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00:20:18,910 --> 00:20:22,160
and a handsome Royal Border Bridge.
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00:20:22,160 --> 00:20:25,320
It was built by the
engineer Robert Stephenson
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00:20:25,320 --> 00:20:27,920
in the 19th century and is hailed
316
00:20:27,920 --> 00:20:30,653
as one of the finest
railway bridges of its type.
317
00:20:32,180 --> 00:20:34,100
The Tweed ranks among the top
318
00:20:34,100 --> 00:20:36,520
salmon-fishing rivers in the world,
319
00:20:36,520 --> 00:20:40,700
but catching a fish here
comes with a steep price.
320
00:20:40,700 --> 00:20:43,150
In fact, the system of
selling fishing rights
321
00:20:43,150 --> 00:20:45,163
dates back to the 12th century.
322
00:20:46,050 --> 00:20:50,513
A day's fishing here
can cost more than $700.
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00:20:53,180 --> 00:20:55,530
Sighted along the river is a house
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00:20:55,530 --> 00:20:59,111
that conjures up the
sadness of unrequited love.
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00:20:59,111 --> 00:21:01,694
(gentle music)
326
00:21:05,050 --> 00:21:08,860
Paxton House, built in the
18th century for Patrick Home,
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00:21:08,860 --> 00:21:13,860
was his unsuccessful attempts
to charm a Prussian princess.
328
00:21:13,900 --> 00:21:17,140
It sits along the north bank
of the Tweed in Scotland
329
00:21:17,140 --> 00:21:21,020
and is heralded as a
neo-Palladian masterpiece.
330
00:21:21,020 --> 00:21:23,880
The collection of
Chippendale furniture inside
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00:21:23,880 --> 00:21:25,630
is almost as stunning
332
00:21:25,630 --> 00:21:28,683
as its beautiful riverside
grounds and gardens.
333
00:21:35,510 --> 00:21:38,730
Continuing along the river
border on the English side,
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00:21:38,730 --> 00:21:40,730
we find Norham Castle.
335
00:21:40,730 --> 00:21:43,480
(dramatic music)
336
00:21:46,930 --> 00:21:50,250
For 400 years, this mighty border fortress
337
00:21:50,250 --> 00:21:52,560
earned its title, the most dangerous
338
00:21:52,560 --> 00:21:55,320
and adventurous place in England.
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00:21:55,320 --> 00:21:58,730
It was besieged by the Scots 13 times,
340
00:21:58,730 --> 00:22:01,263
most famously by Robert Bruce.
341
00:22:05,010 --> 00:22:09,040
Not even its strong 12th-century
keep and massive tower
342
00:22:09,040 --> 00:22:13,360
could fend off James IV's
heavy cannon in 1513,
343
00:22:13,360 --> 00:22:17,560
when it was taken by the
Scots after a five-day siege.
344
00:22:17,560 --> 00:22:19,760
But three weeks later, the Scots suffered
345
00:22:19,760 --> 00:22:22,490
a tragic defeat at the Battle of Flodden,
346
00:22:22,490 --> 00:22:26,433
and the castle was passed back
to the English and rebuilt.
347
00:22:32,490 --> 00:22:35,130
The River Tweed also holds a fascination
348
00:22:35,130 --> 00:22:37,440
for lovers of literary history.
349
00:22:37,440 --> 00:22:39,820
Sir Walter Scott sat on the banks
350
00:22:39,820 --> 00:22:44,110
to write "The Lady of
the Lake" and "Rob Roy."
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00:22:44,110 --> 00:22:47,370
And Scotland's beloved
national bard, Robert Burns,
352
00:22:47,370 --> 00:22:51,360
was also inspired by the
river when he visited Kelso.
353
00:22:51,360 --> 00:22:55,790
He noted Kelso's charm in his
journal, its enchanting views,
354
00:22:55,790 --> 00:22:58,600
and the fine bridges over the Tweed.
355
00:22:58,600 --> 00:23:01,130
It's an old market town that flourished
356
00:23:01,130 --> 00:23:05,253
when the monks arrived in
1128 and built an abbey.
357
00:23:06,920 --> 00:23:10,110
On the outskirts of the
town is Floors Castle,
358
00:23:10,110 --> 00:23:12,238
standing in its landscaped park.
359
00:23:12,238 --> 00:23:14,821
(gentle music)
360
00:23:19,500 --> 00:23:22,330
It's Scotland's largest inhabited house
361
00:23:22,330 --> 00:23:25,080
and the descendants of the
first Duke of Roxburghe
362
00:23:25,080 --> 00:23:28,213
have lived here since
it was built in 1721.
363
00:23:29,080 --> 00:23:31,740
The structure we see
today was reenvisioned
364
00:23:31,740 --> 00:23:33,200
by the sixth Duke,
365
00:23:33,200 --> 00:23:36,130
who invited leading
architect William Playfair
366
00:23:36,130 --> 00:23:40,043
to redesign the original
country house in 1837.
367
00:23:41,110 --> 00:23:43,990
Playfair envisioned a fairytale castle
368
00:23:43,990 --> 00:23:46,300
with pinnacles, cupolas, and turrets,
369
00:23:46,300 --> 00:23:49,270
and today, this romantic home is one of
370
00:23:49,270 --> 00:23:52,253
the most visited attractions
in the Scottish Borders.
371
00:23:58,470 --> 00:24:00,890
The house was made all
the more fascinating
372
00:24:00,890 --> 00:24:02,670
when the eighth Duke married
373
00:24:02,670 --> 00:24:05,590
the American heiress Mary Goelet,
374
00:24:05,590 --> 00:24:07,870
and she arrived to her new home
375
00:24:07,870 --> 00:24:10,890
carrying priceless tapestries and artwork,
376
00:24:10,890 --> 00:24:13,443
which are still part of
the collection today.
377
00:24:19,640 --> 00:24:22,900
On this rocky outcrop a
few miles from the border
378
00:24:22,900 --> 00:24:26,450
is Smailholm Tower, the
last stop on this journey.
379
00:24:26,450 --> 00:24:29,867
(dramatic bagpipe music)
380
00:24:31,270 --> 00:24:34,100
It was built in the first
half of the 15th century
381
00:24:34,100 --> 00:24:35,513
by the Pringle family.
382
00:24:36,350 --> 00:24:38,280
Like many people in this area,
383
00:24:38,280 --> 00:24:41,400
their lives were made difficult
by the Border Reivers,
384
00:24:41,400 --> 00:24:46,003
and after two costly raids
in 1544, they moved away.
385
00:24:47,230 --> 00:24:49,820
A distant relative of Sir Walter Scott
386
00:24:49,820 --> 00:24:52,730
assumed ownership in the 17th century,
387
00:24:52,730 --> 00:24:54,270
but it was eventually abandoned
388
00:24:54,270 --> 00:24:57,710
in favor of a newer house nearby.
389
00:24:57,710 --> 00:25:01,260
Sir Walter Scott was fascinated
with the deserted tower
390
00:25:01,260 --> 00:25:03,280
and he grew up listening to the tales
391
00:25:03,280 --> 00:25:05,560
and ballads of the Border countryside
392
00:25:05,560 --> 00:25:07,823
as told to him by his grandmother.
393
00:25:09,440 --> 00:25:11,220
As an adult, he would publish
394
00:25:11,220 --> 00:25:14,937
his much-acclaimed "Minstrelsy
of the Scottish Border."
395
00:25:15,860 --> 00:25:18,860
He paid an emotional
visit to Smailholm Tower
396
00:25:18,860 --> 00:25:23,820
before his death in 1832,
and found that some things
397
00:25:23,820 --> 00:25:26,923
in his beloved country remained the same.
398
00:25:27,770 --> 00:25:30,900
A perfect place to end this journey.
399
00:25:30,900 --> 00:25:33,483
(gentle music)
400
00:25:36,191 --> 00:25:38,941
(dramatic music)
401
00:25:58,560 --> 00:26:01,310
(logo whooshing)
32428
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