Original subtitles

(dramatic upbeat music)

- Our journey begins in the Scottish Lowlands

at Threave Castle, which once stood witness

to centuries of turmoil along the borders.

We cross over into England to visit Carlisle,

home to the most besieged castle in the British Isles,

and then make our way along Hadrian's Wall

to Housesteads Roman Fort.

We take a look at Cragside,

one of the world's first homes to be lit by electricity.

On the Northumberland Coast,

we pass by several impressive castles,

including Dunstanburgh, which has served

as an inspiration for Arthurian legends.

We stop at the English border town of Berwick-upon-Tweed,

with its impressive Tudor fortifications,

before heading west along the River Tweed

to end our journey at Smailholm Tower,

one of the boyhood homes

of Scottish writer Sir Walter Scott.

(dramatic music)

To visit Threave Castle on an island in the River Dee,

you have to ring an old brass bell

that summons a boatman to ferry you across.

Despite its ancient charm, it stands as a testament

to Scotland's long, brutal civil wars,

as well as battles for independence from the English.

The castle we see today was built

at the end of the 14th century

by the powerful Archibald Douglas,

known as Archibald the Grim, the Lord of Galloway.

In 1455, it was subject to a two-month siege

by King James II of Scotland,

who took possession of the castle

and turned it into a royal fortress.

In the early 19th century, Threave was used

to house French prisoners from the Napoleonic Wars,

and then gradually fell into disrepair

until 1913 when it was handed over to the state.

To the east is Caerlaverock Castle,

whose sturdiness belies its fragile history.

It fell to the English several times

in the Scottish Wars of Independence,

but its most famous siege was in 1300,

when 60 men held the forces

of King Edward I of England at bay before surrendering.

With its impressive moat, this rare triangular castle

stands as a perfect example of a medieval stronghold.

(dramatic music)

By 1237, the Scottish border had been established,

but it would remain a lawless territory

for centuries to come.

It was overrun by the Border Reivers,

who carried out repeated raids on both sides,

keeping castles like Caerlaverock busy.

Hundreds of years pass before order was restored,

which eventually came about as a result

of the 1707 Acts of Union,

which united England and Scotland in a new Great Britain.

Nearby is Repentance Tower, which stands on the grounds

of Hoddam Castle in Dumfriesshire.

It was built as a watchtower by John Maxwell,

and its name alludes to the guilt he felt for past misdeeds.

He had switched his loyalties to the Scots in 1548

when the English captured Dumfriesshire

and 12 Scottish hostages were killed as a result,

including a young nephew.

Standing on Trailtrow Hill, the fortified watchtower

was built to warn the castle

if an English raiding party crossed the border.

Today, it's a great place to take in the views.

Heading south, we cross the mudflats

of the Solway Firth into England

and find the town of Carlisle,

whose history was built by conquerors.

Founded by the Romans, sacked by the Vikings,

captured by the Saxons, and claimed by the Scots,

the town didn't firmly establish

its English identity until 1603.

For 500 years, Carlisle Castle was the principal fortress

of England's Western March against Scotland.

Attacked 10 times in its history, today it stands as one of

the most besieged places in the British Isles.

It's been in continuous use since the first stone

was laid by King William II in 1092.

We now follow one of Britain's

best-loved monuments, Hadrian's Wall.

(triumphant music)

It once stretched between the North Sea and the Irish Sea,

118 kilometers in length,

and built from 18 million blocks of local stone.

The wall stands as one of the greatest monuments

to the power of the Roman Empire.

It was constructed by the emperor Hadrian in 122 AD

as a way to separate Romans from barbarians,

and took six years to complete.

Skilled auxiliary soldiers built a system of small forts

every Roman mile along the wall's length,

with towers every 1/3 of a mile.

16 large forts were also built into the wall

that could hold up to 1,000 troops

with modern comforts such as latrines and washrooms.

The wall defined the northern end of the Roman Empire,

where Britannia stopped and where the barbarian land

that would one day be Scotland began.

It was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site

and efforts are underway to repair parts of the wall

that have been pillaged by locals

over the centuries or left to erode.

Today, it makes for a marvelous

long-distance footpath for hikers,

stretching nearly 135 kilometers

through the remote English countryside.

Set high on a dramatic escarpment

stands Housesteads Roman Fort,

one of the best-preserved along the wall.

An infantry regiment of 800 strong

garrisoned this place for nearly 300 years of Roman rule

and were charged with defending the empire

from the Picts to the north, who resisted their invasion.

Hadrian's Wall was the furthest point

from Rome in the empire,

and it was not a coveted post for a soldier

to be stationed at the end of the world.

Well-preserved artifacts like leather boots,

tools, and stone inscriptions

have been found by archeologists,

giving colorful insight into the daily life of a soldier.

Housesteads' remains also include

an impressive hospital, granaries, stables, and workshops.

Perhaps most memorable for visitors

are the soldiers' communal and flushable latrines,

complete with a lovely view.

One of the great rewards of visiting the site

is the landscape, with its rolling hills

and the nearby forbidding Steel Rigg cliffs.

We continue our journey northeast

into the Northumberland countryside,

with its heather-covered moorlands and ancient meadows,

and find the Cragside estate,

hidden in a forest of nearly seven million trees.

Once owned by Victorian inventor

and industrialist William Armstrong,

it was the first house in the world

to be lit by hydroelectricity in 1880,

when it was described as the palace of the modern magician.

Armstrong was a national hero in his day,

producing hydraulic cranes, ships, and armaments,

and he was the inventor of the swing bridge.

An avid environmentalist,

he planted seven million trees and shrubs on his estate

and advocated the use of solar energy and water power,

ideas that were far ahead of their time.

Armstrong's ambition also extended to the grounds,

which boasted five lakes, extensive gardens,

and 45 kilometers of walking trails.

Our next stop is Warkworth,

the magnificent cross-shaped castle

looking over a town of the same name,

which is nestled in a loop of the Coquet River.

The fortress dates back to the 12th century,

and over the decades has passed back and forth

between the powerful Percy family and the Crown.

This was a structure built to defend

against a Scottish invasion.

The town grew up in the shadow of the castle,

and its medieval history is well-preserved

by the long, narrow gardens behind the houses,

a vestige of medieval property divisions.

(dramatic music)

Perhaps the castle's most famous resident

was Sir Harry Hotspur,

known as one of the most valiant knights of his day,

and a captain during the Anglo-Scottish Wars.

Even when the castle fell into decline,

it was celebrated by William Shakespeare

as a setting in several scenes of his "Henry IV" plays,

written in 1597.

Hotspur lives in infamy as one of

the best-known characters in Shakespeare's drama.

Moving inland, we come to Alnwick Castle.

(gentle music)

This is the ancestral home of the Percy family,

whose history is as infamous as the building itself.

It's the second-largest inhabited fortress in the UK,

after the royal Windsor Castle.

The Percys have played key roles throughout English history

and boast a family line of intriguing characters.

They've been earls and dukes of Northumberland since 1309,

and their ancestors include knights,

kingmakers, and battle-hardened warriors.

One was executed for high treason in 1553.

Alnwick is a storybook castle.

It's been featured in several movies and television shows,

including "Harry Potter" and an episode of "Downton Abbey."

Today it welcomes 800,000 visitors a year

who come to see the lavish interior

and the beautifully-restored gardens.

Back on the Northumberland Coast

lies a romantic ruin suited for poets and painters.

(dramatic music)

Dunstanburgh Castle was once one of the largest

and grandest fortifications in Northern England.

It was built early in the 14th century

by Thomas, Earl of Lancaster,

but occupation of the site had begun in the Iron Age.

Lancaster began the fortress in 1313

and the latest research reveals that he built it

on a far grander scale than was originally recognized,

perhaps as a symbol of his opposition to King Edward II.

Earl Thomas was executed for his role

in the rebellion against the king,

and the next phase of renovation came under John of Gaunt,

who acquired the castle and sought to modernize it.

During the following centuries,

it gradually fell into ruins,

but its massive gatehouse and tower survive,

making an imposing view for visitors

as they absorb the sense of history in these ancient stones.

The Northumberland Coast is a haven

for holidaymakers as well as nature-lovers.

It is designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

There's 100 miles of unspoiled sandy beaches,

grass-covered dunes,

and the Farne Islands lying just off the coast.

Overlooking the beach is another mighty castle,

towering 45 meters above the sea on a volcanic outcrop.

Bamburgh.

(ethereal music) (singers vocalizing)

It's often referred to as the foundation stone of England,

and was once home to a succession of Northumbrian kings.

Legend tells that it may also be a possible site

of Lancelot's mythical castle Joyous Garde.

True or not, this place played a key role

in the border wars of the 13th and 14th centuries

between England and Scotland.

And in 1464, it was the first English castle

to fall to artillery during the Wars of the Roses,

when two English dynasties fought for the crown.

It was meticulously restored in the 19th century

by the great industrialist William Armstrong,

and part of the castle is still home to the family today.

The striking scenery takes top billing

and it's a setting worthy of myths and legends,

and there are stories of ghosts

that roam its towers at night.

Along with miles of sandy beaches,

the Northumberland Coast is also home

to several protected wildlife and habitat sanctuaries,

a place for waders and wild fowl

who come for the rich feeding grounds

provided by its dunes and marshes.

The coast is also home to a handful of small boats,

whose crews have been fishing these waters for generations.

Ahead of us is Holy Island,

and standing on a small rocky outcrop is Lindisfarne Castle.

(bright music)

It was begun in the 16th century

as one of the first military forts

by the Tudor king Henry VIII,

and then completed by his daughter, Queen Elizabeth.

It was designed to protect Holy Island's

natural harbor from attacks by Scotland.

Like so many castles, it later fell into disrepair,

and in the early 20th century,

it was bought from the Crown

and turned into a mock castle and summer home

for a wealthy publishing magnate from London,

by the architect Sir Edwin Lutyens.

Holy Island once played host

to one of the most important centers

of early Christianity in Anglo-Saxon England.

It was the home and original burial ground

of Saint Cuthbert, a great missionary monk

and leader of the early Christian church in this country.

The monastery that once stood here is the place of creation

of the magnificent Lindisfarne Gospels,

considered to be one of the world's most precious books.

Part of the charm of Holy Island is getting there,

as it's linked to the mainland by a long causeway.

(gentle music)

Twice each day, the tide sweeps in from the North Sea

and quickly covers the road.

Visitors must plan their trips around this

and the errant whims of Mother Nature.

The Coastguard occasionally rescues

misguided tourists in their cars

who have not heeded warnings about the coming tide

and decide to make a dash for the island

outside of safe crossing times.

(dramatic music)

Ahead of us is England's northernmost town,

the picturesque Berwick-upon-Tweed.

It was fought over for three centuries,

changing hands between the English and the Scots

no less than 13 times.

It became a walled town in the 14th century

under King Edward I when he fortified it

against Scottish attacks.

The original walls stretched for more than three kilometers

and measured over six meters high,

but by 1405 the fortifications had fallen into disrepair

and couldn't prevent Henry IV from seizing the town.

It has remained English ever since.

The 16th century ramparts and bastions we see today

were constructed during the reign

of Queen Elizabeth I of England.

They are the only example of bastion town walls in Britain,

and one of the best-preserved examples in Europe.

Today, Berwick-upon-Tweed is lauded

as one of the most picturesque towns on the region's coast,

with its red-roofed houses

and a handsome Royal Border Bridge.

It was built by the engineer Robert Stephenson

in the 19th century and is hailed

as one of the finest railway bridges of its type.

The Tweed ranks among the top

salmon-fishing rivers in the world,

but catching a fish here comes with a steep price.

In fact, the system of selling fishing rights

dates back to the 12th century.

A day's fishing here can cost more than $700.

Sighted along the river is a house

that conjures up the sadness of unrequited love.

(gentle music)

Paxton House, built in the 18th century for Patrick Home,

was his unsuccessful attempts to charm a Prussian princess.

It sits along the north bank of the Tweed in Scotland

and is heralded as a neo-Palladian masterpiece.

The collection of Chippendale furniture inside

is almost as stunning

as its beautiful riverside grounds and gardens.

Continuing along the river border on the English side,

we find Norham Castle.

(dramatic music)

For 400 years, this mighty border fortress

earned its title, the most dangerous

and adventurous place in England.

It was besieged by the Scots 13 times,

most famously by Robert Bruce.

Not even its strong 12th-century keep and massive tower

could fend off James IV's heavy cannon in 1513,

when it was taken by the Scots after a five-day siege.

But three weeks later, the Scots suffered

a tragic defeat at the Battle of Flodden,

and the castle was passed back to the English and rebuilt.

The River Tweed also holds a fascination

for lovers of literary history.

Sir Walter Scott sat on the banks

to write "The Lady of the Lake" and "Rob Roy."

And Scotland's beloved national bard, Robert Burns,

was also inspired by the river when he visited Kelso.

He noted Kelso's charm in his journal, its enchanting views,

and the fine bridges over the Tweed.

It's an old market town that flourished

when the monks arrived in 1128 and built an abbey.

On the outskirts of the town is Floors Castle,

standing in its landscaped park.

(gentle music)

It's Scotland's largest inhabited house

and the descendants of the first Duke of Roxburghe

have lived here since it was built in 1721.

The structure we see today was reenvisioned

by the sixth Duke,

who invited leading architect William Playfair

to redesign the original country house in 1837.

Playfair envisioned a fairytale castle

with pinnacles, cupolas, and turrets,

and today, this romantic home is one of

the most visited attractions in the Scottish Borders.

The house was made all the more fascinating

when the eighth Duke married

the American heiress Mary Goelet,

and she arrived to her new home

carrying priceless tapestries and artwork,

which are still part of the collection today.

On this rocky outcrop a few miles from the border

is Smailholm Tower, the last stop on this journey.

(dramatic bagpipe music)

It was built in the first half of the 15th century

by the Pringle family.

Like many people in this area,

their lives were made difficult by the Border Reivers,

and after two costly raids in 1544, they moved away.

A distant relative of Sir Walter Scott

assumed ownership in the 17th century,

but it was eventually abandoned

in favor of a newer house nearby.

Sir Walter Scott was fascinated with the deserted tower

and he grew up listening to the tales

and ballads of the Border countryside

as told to him by his grandmother.

As an adult, he would publish

his much-acclaimed "Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border."

He paid an emotional visit to Smailholm Tower

before his death in 1832, and found that some things

in his beloved country remained the same.

A perfect place to end this journey.

(gentle music)

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