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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:06,503 --> 00:00:09,836 (dramatic upbeat music) 2 00:01:09,850 --> 00:01:12,220 - Our journey begins in the Scottish Lowlands 3 00:01:12,220 --> 00:01:15,160 at Threave Castle, which once stood witness 4 00:01:15,160 --> 00:01:18,580 to centuries of turmoil along the borders. 5 00:01:18,580 --> 00:01:21,680 We cross over into England to visit Carlisle, 6 00:01:21,680 --> 00:01:26,030 home to the most besieged castle in the British Isles, 7 00:01:26,030 --> 00:01:28,800 and then make our way along Hadrian's Wall 8 00:01:28,800 --> 00:01:30,463 to Housesteads Roman Fort. 9 00:01:31,650 --> 00:01:33,430 We take a look at Cragside, 10 00:01:33,430 --> 00:01:36,863 one of the world's first homes to be lit by electricity. 11 00:01:37,940 --> 00:01:39,680 On the Northumberland Coast, 12 00:01:39,680 --> 00:01:42,400 we pass by several impressive castles, 13 00:01:42,400 --> 00:01:45,140 including Dunstanburgh, which has served 14 00:01:45,140 --> 00:01:48,223 as an inspiration for Arthurian legends. 15 00:01:49,610 --> 00:01:53,540 We stop at the English border town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, 16 00:01:53,540 --> 00:01:56,550 with its impressive Tudor fortifications, 17 00:01:56,550 --> 00:01:59,000 before heading west along the River Tweed 18 00:01:59,000 --> 00:02:01,930 to end our journey at Smailholm Tower, 19 00:02:01,930 --> 00:02:03,540 one of the boyhood homes 20 00:02:03,540 --> 00:02:05,963 of Scottish writer Sir Walter Scott. 21 00:02:10,409 --> 00:02:13,190 (dramatic music) 22 00:02:13,190 --> 00:02:16,700 To visit Threave Castle on an island in the River Dee, 23 00:02:16,700 --> 00:02:18,940 you have to ring an old brass bell 24 00:02:18,940 --> 00:02:21,923 that summons a boatman to ferry you across. 25 00:02:22,870 --> 00:02:26,010 Despite its ancient charm, it stands as a testament 26 00:02:26,010 --> 00:02:28,690 to Scotland's long, brutal civil wars, 27 00:02:28,690 --> 00:02:31,963 as well as battles for independence from the English. 28 00:02:32,870 --> 00:02:34,820 The castle we see today was built 29 00:02:34,820 --> 00:02:36,540 at the end of the 14th century 30 00:02:36,540 --> 00:02:39,010 by the powerful Archibald Douglas, 31 00:02:39,010 --> 00:02:43,453 known as Archibald the Grim, the Lord of Galloway. 32 00:02:44,370 --> 00:02:48,410 In 1455, it was subject to a two-month siege 33 00:02:48,410 --> 00:02:50,610 by King James II of Scotland, 34 00:02:50,610 --> 00:02:52,420 who took possession of the castle 35 00:02:52,420 --> 00:02:55,390 and turned it into a royal fortress. 36 00:02:55,390 --> 00:02:58,090 In the early 19th century, Threave was used 37 00:02:58,090 --> 00:03:01,390 to house French prisoners from the Napoleonic Wars, 38 00:03:01,390 --> 00:03:03,600 and then gradually fell into disrepair 39 00:03:03,600 --> 00:03:07,703 until 1913 when it was handed over to the state. 40 00:03:12,930 --> 00:03:15,680 To the east is Caerlaverock Castle, 41 00:03:15,680 --> 00:03:19,730 whose sturdiness belies its fragile history. 42 00:03:19,730 --> 00:03:22,000 It fell to the English several times 43 00:03:22,000 --> 00:03:24,350 in the Scottish Wars of Independence, 44 00:03:24,350 --> 00:03:27,610 but its most famous siege was in 1300, 45 00:03:27,610 --> 00:03:29,870 when 60 men held the forces 46 00:03:29,870 --> 00:03:33,703 of King Edward I of England at bay before surrendering. 47 00:03:35,470 --> 00:03:39,420 With its impressive moat, this rare triangular castle 48 00:03:39,420 --> 00:03:43,843 stands as a perfect example of a medieval stronghold. 49 00:03:43,843 --> 00:03:46,593 (dramatic music) 50 00:03:48,550 --> 00:03:52,410 By 1237, the Scottish border had been established, 51 00:03:52,410 --> 00:03:54,830 but it would remain a lawless territory 52 00:03:54,830 --> 00:03:56,960 for centuries to come. 53 00:03:56,960 --> 00:04:00,050 It was overrun by the Border Reivers, 54 00:04:00,050 --> 00:04:03,210 who carried out repeated raids on both sides, 55 00:04:03,210 --> 00:04:05,823 keeping castles like Caerlaverock busy. 56 00:04:08,970 --> 00:04:12,130 Hundreds of years pass before order was restored, 57 00:04:12,130 --> 00:04:14,360 which eventually came about as a result 58 00:04:14,360 --> 00:04:17,300 of the 1707 Acts of Union, 59 00:04:17,300 --> 00:04:21,313 which united England and Scotland in a new Great Britain. 60 00:04:25,320 --> 00:04:29,420 Nearby is Repentance Tower, which stands on the grounds 61 00:04:29,420 --> 00:04:32,070 of Hoddam Castle in Dumfriesshire. 62 00:04:32,070 --> 00:04:35,030 It was built as a watchtower by John Maxwell, 63 00:04:35,030 --> 00:04:39,890 and its name alludes to the guilt he felt for past misdeeds. 64 00:04:39,890 --> 00:04:43,950 He had switched his loyalties to the Scots in 1548 65 00:04:43,950 --> 00:04:46,220 when the English captured Dumfriesshire 66 00:04:46,220 --> 00:04:49,770 and 12 Scottish hostages were killed as a result, 67 00:04:49,770 --> 00:04:51,843 including a young nephew. 68 00:04:53,090 --> 00:04:56,370 Standing on Trailtrow Hill, the fortified watchtower 69 00:04:56,370 --> 00:04:58,040 was built to warn the castle 70 00:04:58,040 --> 00:05:00,743 if an English raiding party crossed the border. 71 00:05:01,700 --> 00:05:05,403 Today, it's a great place to take in the views. 72 00:05:08,640 --> 00:05:11,010 Heading south, we cross the mudflats 73 00:05:11,010 --> 00:05:13,920 of the Solway Firth into England 74 00:05:13,920 --> 00:05:16,170 and find the town of Carlisle, 75 00:05:16,170 --> 00:05:18,703 whose history was built by conquerors. 76 00:05:19,580 --> 00:05:23,140 Founded by the Romans, sacked by the Vikings, 77 00:05:23,140 --> 00:05:27,030 captured by the Saxons, and claimed by the Scots, 78 00:05:27,030 --> 00:05:28,940 the town didn't firmly establish 79 00:05:28,940 --> 00:05:33,320 its English identity until 1603. 80 00:05:33,320 --> 00:05:37,530 For 500 years, Carlisle Castle was the principal fortress 81 00:05:37,530 --> 00:05:41,430 of England's Western March against Scotland. 82 00:05:41,430 --> 00:05:45,380 Attacked 10 times in its history, today it stands as one of 83 00:05:45,380 --> 00:05:48,583 the most besieged places in the British Isles. 84 00:05:50,610 --> 00:05:53,390 It's been in continuous use since the first stone 85 00:05:53,390 --> 00:05:56,560 was laid by King William II in 1092. 86 00:06:03,460 --> 00:06:05,180 We now follow one of Britain's 87 00:06:05,180 --> 00:06:07,963 best-loved monuments, Hadrian's Wall. 88 00:06:09,354 --> 00:06:12,860 (triumphant music) 89 00:06:12,860 --> 00:06:17,030 It once stretched between the North Sea and the Irish Sea, 90 00:06:17,030 --> 00:06:19,500 118 kilometers in length, 91 00:06:19,500 --> 00:06:23,053 and built from 18 million blocks of local stone. 92 00:06:24,370 --> 00:06:27,040 The wall stands as one of the greatest monuments 93 00:06:27,040 --> 00:06:28,873 to the power of the Roman Empire. 94 00:06:30,160 --> 00:06:34,920 It was constructed by the emperor Hadrian in 122 AD 95 00:06:34,920 --> 00:06:38,700 as a way to separate Romans from barbarians, 96 00:06:38,700 --> 00:06:40,683 and took six years to complete. 97 00:06:42,060 --> 00:06:46,130 Skilled auxiliary soldiers built a system of small forts 98 00:06:46,130 --> 00:06:49,090 every Roman mile along the wall's length, 99 00:06:49,090 --> 00:06:52,010 with towers every 1/3 of a mile. 100 00:06:52,010 --> 00:06:55,750 16 large forts were also built into the wall 101 00:06:55,750 --> 00:06:58,750 that could hold up to 1,000 troops 102 00:06:58,750 --> 00:07:02,483 with modern comforts such as latrines and washrooms. 103 00:07:06,460 --> 00:07:09,960 The wall defined the northern end of the Roman Empire, 104 00:07:09,960 --> 00:07:13,640 where Britannia stopped and where the barbarian land 105 00:07:13,640 --> 00:07:16,103 that would one day be Scotland began. 106 00:07:17,420 --> 00:07:21,160 It was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site 107 00:07:21,160 --> 00:07:24,560 and efforts are underway to repair parts of the wall 108 00:07:24,560 --> 00:07:26,180 that have been pillaged by locals 109 00:07:26,180 --> 00:07:28,393 over the centuries or left to erode. 110 00:07:35,780 --> 00:07:37,610 Today, it makes for a marvelous 111 00:07:37,610 --> 00:07:40,060 long-distance footpath for hikers, 112 00:07:40,060 --> 00:07:42,900 stretching nearly 135 kilometers 113 00:07:42,900 --> 00:07:45,463 through the remote English countryside. 114 00:07:53,570 --> 00:07:56,030 Set high on a dramatic escarpment 115 00:07:56,030 --> 00:07:58,410 stands Housesteads Roman Fort, 116 00:07:58,410 --> 00:08:00,803 one of the best-preserved along the wall. 117 00:08:01,860 --> 00:08:04,540 An infantry regiment of 800 strong 118 00:08:04,540 --> 00:08:08,270 garrisoned this place for nearly 300 years of Roman rule 119 00:08:08,270 --> 00:08:10,720 and were charged with defending the empire 120 00:08:10,720 --> 00:08:14,523 from the Picts to the north, who resisted their invasion. 121 00:08:15,380 --> 00:08:17,670 Hadrian's Wall was the furthest point 122 00:08:17,670 --> 00:08:19,600 from Rome in the empire, 123 00:08:19,600 --> 00:08:22,210 and it was not a coveted post for a soldier 124 00:08:22,210 --> 00:08:24,633 to be stationed at the end of the world. 125 00:08:26,060 --> 00:08:29,070 Well-preserved artifacts like leather boots, 126 00:08:29,070 --> 00:08:31,200 tools, and stone inscriptions 127 00:08:31,200 --> 00:08:33,460 have been found by archeologists, 128 00:08:33,460 --> 00:08:36,923 giving colorful insight into the daily life of a soldier. 129 00:08:38,800 --> 00:08:40,920 Housesteads' remains also include 130 00:08:40,920 --> 00:08:45,540 an impressive hospital, granaries, stables, and workshops. 131 00:08:45,540 --> 00:08:47,940 Perhaps most memorable for visitors 132 00:08:47,940 --> 00:08:51,760 are the soldiers' communal and flushable latrines, 133 00:08:51,760 --> 00:08:53,583 complete with a lovely view. 134 00:09:00,920 --> 00:09:03,520 One of the great rewards of visiting the site 135 00:09:03,520 --> 00:09:06,510 is the landscape, with its rolling hills 136 00:09:06,510 --> 00:09:09,433 and the nearby forbidding Steel Rigg cliffs. 137 00:09:21,920 --> 00:09:23,990 We continue our journey northeast 138 00:09:23,990 --> 00:09:26,010 into the Northumberland countryside, 139 00:09:26,010 --> 00:09:29,380 with its heather-covered moorlands and ancient meadows, 140 00:09:29,380 --> 00:09:32,010 and find the Cragside estate, 141 00:09:32,010 --> 00:09:35,093 hidden in a forest of nearly seven million trees. 142 00:09:36,810 --> 00:09:38,910 Once owned by Victorian inventor 143 00:09:38,910 --> 00:09:41,310 and industrialist William Armstrong, 144 00:09:41,310 --> 00:09:43,270 it was the first house in the world 145 00:09:43,270 --> 00:09:47,540 to be lit by hydroelectricity in 1880, 146 00:09:47,540 --> 00:09:51,653 when it was described as the palace of the modern magician. 147 00:09:52,720 --> 00:09:55,980 Armstrong was a national hero in his day, 148 00:09:55,980 --> 00:10:00,120 producing hydraulic cranes, ships, and armaments, 149 00:10:00,120 --> 00:10:03,043 and he was the inventor of the swing bridge. 150 00:10:04,370 --> 00:10:06,150 An avid environmentalist, 151 00:10:06,150 --> 00:10:09,960 he planted seven million trees and shrubs on his estate 152 00:10:09,960 --> 00:10:14,030 and advocated the use of solar energy and water power, 153 00:10:14,030 --> 00:10:17,520 ideas that were far ahead of their time. 154 00:10:17,520 --> 00:10:21,230 Armstrong's ambition also extended to the grounds, 155 00:10:21,230 --> 00:10:24,550 which boasted five lakes, extensive gardens, 156 00:10:24,550 --> 00:10:27,813 and 45 kilometers of walking trails. 157 00:10:34,350 --> 00:10:36,520 Our next stop is Warkworth, 158 00:10:36,520 --> 00:10:38,900 the magnificent cross-shaped castle 159 00:10:38,900 --> 00:10:41,620 looking over a town of the same name, 160 00:10:41,620 --> 00:10:45,760 which is nestled in a loop of the Coquet River. 161 00:10:45,760 --> 00:10:48,280 The fortress dates back to the 12th century, 162 00:10:48,280 --> 00:10:51,130 and over the decades has passed back and forth 163 00:10:51,130 --> 00:10:53,913 between the powerful Percy family and the Crown. 164 00:10:55,660 --> 00:10:58,310 This was a structure built to defend 165 00:10:58,310 --> 00:11:00,690 against a Scottish invasion. 166 00:11:00,690 --> 00:11:03,620 The town grew up in the shadow of the castle, 167 00:11:03,620 --> 00:11:06,187 and its medieval history is well-preserved 168 00:11:06,187 --> 00:11:09,540 by the long, narrow gardens behind the houses, 169 00:11:09,540 --> 00:11:12,641 a vestige of medieval property divisions. 170 00:11:12,641 --> 00:11:15,391 (dramatic music) 171 00:11:16,430 --> 00:11:18,880 Perhaps the castle's most famous resident 172 00:11:18,880 --> 00:11:20,800 was Sir Harry Hotspur, 173 00:11:20,800 --> 00:11:24,030 known as one of the most valiant knights of his day, 174 00:11:24,030 --> 00:11:27,093 and a captain during the Anglo-Scottish Wars. 175 00:11:28,170 --> 00:11:30,460 Even when the castle fell into decline, 176 00:11:30,460 --> 00:11:33,170 it was celebrated by William Shakespeare 177 00:11:33,170 --> 00:11:37,130 as a setting in several scenes of his "Henry IV" plays, 178 00:11:37,130 --> 00:11:39,173 written in 1597. 179 00:11:40,210 --> 00:11:43,020 Hotspur lives in infamy as one of 180 00:11:43,020 --> 00:11:46,173 the best-known characters in Shakespeare's drama. 181 00:11:52,860 --> 00:11:56,099 Moving inland, we come to Alnwick Castle. 182 00:11:56,099 --> 00:11:58,682 (gentle music) 183 00:12:03,670 --> 00:12:06,850 This is the ancestral home of the Percy family, 184 00:12:06,850 --> 00:12:10,283 whose history is as infamous as the building itself. 185 00:12:12,860 --> 00:12:16,830 It's the second-largest inhabited fortress in the UK, 186 00:12:16,830 --> 00:12:19,003 after the royal Windsor Castle. 187 00:12:20,560 --> 00:12:24,540 The Percys have played key roles throughout English history 188 00:12:24,540 --> 00:12:28,070 and boast a family line of intriguing characters. 189 00:12:28,070 --> 00:12:32,670 They've been earls and dukes of Northumberland since 1309, 190 00:12:32,670 --> 00:12:35,230 and their ancestors include knights, 191 00:12:35,230 --> 00:12:38,400 kingmakers, and battle-hardened warriors. 192 00:12:38,400 --> 00:12:43,360 One was executed for high treason in 1553. 193 00:12:43,360 --> 00:12:45,920 Alnwick is a storybook castle. 194 00:12:45,920 --> 00:12:49,750 It's been featured in several movies and television shows, 195 00:12:49,750 --> 00:12:54,187 including "Harry Potter" and an episode of "Downton Abbey." 196 00:12:55,110 --> 00:12:58,790 Today it welcomes 800,000 visitors a year 197 00:12:58,790 --> 00:13:01,150 who come to see the lavish interior 198 00:13:01,150 --> 00:13:03,333 and the beautifully-restored gardens. 199 00:13:10,560 --> 00:13:12,470 Back on the Northumberland Coast 200 00:13:12,470 --> 00:13:17,405 lies a romantic ruin suited for poets and painters. 201 00:13:17,405 --> 00:13:20,155 (dramatic music) 202 00:13:23,400 --> 00:13:26,420 Dunstanburgh Castle was once one of the largest 203 00:13:26,420 --> 00:13:29,760 and grandest fortifications in Northern England. 204 00:13:29,760 --> 00:13:32,220 It was built early in the 14th century 205 00:13:32,220 --> 00:13:34,620 by Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, 206 00:13:34,620 --> 00:13:38,083 but occupation of the site had begun in the Iron Age. 207 00:13:46,110 --> 00:13:48,297 Lancaster began the fortress in 1313 208 00:13:49,640 --> 00:13:52,470 and the latest research reveals that he built it 209 00:13:52,470 --> 00:13:56,420 on a far grander scale than was originally recognized, 210 00:13:56,420 --> 00:14:00,173 perhaps as a symbol of his opposition to King Edward II. 211 00:14:03,420 --> 00:14:05,760 Earl Thomas was executed for his role 212 00:14:05,760 --> 00:14:08,360 in the rebellion against the king, 213 00:14:08,360 --> 00:14:12,240 and the next phase of renovation came under John of Gaunt, 214 00:14:12,240 --> 00:14:15,453 who acquired the castle and sought to modernize it. 215 00:14:22,320 --> 00:14:23,950 During the following centuries, 216 00:14:23,950 --> 00:14:26,113 it gradually fell into ruins, 217 00:14:26,950 --> 00:14:30,120 but its massive gatehouse and tower survive, 218 00:14:30,120 --> 00:14:32,610 making an imposing view for visitors 219 00:14:32,610 --> 00:14:36,703 as they absorb the sense of history in these ancient stones. 220 00:14:45,200 --> 00:14:47,580 The Northumberland Coast is a haven 221 00:14:47,580 --> 00:14:51,170 for holidaymakers as well as nature-lovers. 222 00:14:51,170 --> 00:14:56,170 It is designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. 223 00:14:56,270 --> 00:14:59,660 There's 100 miles of unspoiled sandy beaches, 224 00:14:59,660 --> 00:15:01,470 grass-covered dunes, 225 00:15:01,470 --> 00:15:04,483 and the Farne Islands lying just off the coast. 226 00:15:07,100 --> 00:15:10,360 Overlooking the beach is another mighty castle, 227 00:15:10,360 --> 00:15:15,360 towering 45 meters above the sea on a volcanic outcrop. 228 00:15:15,631 --> 00:15:16,541 Bamburgh. 229 00:15:16,541 --> 00:15:21,541 (ethereal music) (singers vocalizing) 230 00:15:21,560 --> 00:15:25,620 It's often referred to as the foundation stone of England, 231 00:15:25,620 --> 00:15:28,843 and was once home to a succession of Northumbrian kings. 232 00:15:30,150 --> 00:15:33,640 Legend tells that it may also be a possible site 233 00:15:33,640 --> 00:15:37,283 of Lancelot's mythical castle Joyous Garde. 234 00:15:38,880 --> 00:15:41,520 True or not, this place played a key role 235 00:15:41,520 --> 00:15:44,690 in the border wars of the 13th and 14th centuries 236 00:15:44,690 --> 00:15:46,890 between England and Scotland. 237 00:15:46,890 --> 00:15:51,110 And in 1464, it was the first English castle 238 00:15:51,110 --> 00:15:54,760 to fall to artillery during the Wars of the Roses, 239 00:15:54,760 --> 00:15:57,803 when two English dynasties fought for the crown. 240 00:16:01,760 --> 00:16:04,940 It was meticulously restored in the 19th century 241 00:16:04,940 --> 00:16:08,190 by the great industrialist William Armstrong, 242 00:16:08,190 --> 00:16:12,013 and part of the castle is still home to the family today. 243 00:16:13,540 --> 00:16:17,080 The striking scenery takes top billing 244 00:16:17,080 --> 00:16:20,750 and it's a setting worthy of myths and legends, 245 00:16:20,750 --> 00:16:22,770 and there are stories of ghosts 246 00:16:22,770 --> 00:16:24,763 that roam its towers at night. 247 00:16:30,490 --> 00:16:32,940 Along with miles of sandy beaches, 248 00:16:32,940 --> 00:16:35,180 the Northumberland Coast is also home 249 00:16:35,180 --> 00:16:38,940 to several protected wildlife and habitat sanctuaries, 250 00:16:38,940 --> 00:16:41,310 a place for waders and wild fowl 251 00:16:41,310 --> 00:16:43,580 who come for the rich feeding grounds 252 00:16:43,580 --> 00:16:45,923 provided by its dunes and marshes. 253 00:16:49,440 --> 00:16:53,180 The coast is also home to a handful of small boats, 254 00:16:53,180 --> 00:16:56,913 whose crews have been fishing these waters for generations. 255 00:16:59,310 --> 00:17:01,760 Ahead of us is Holy Island, 256 00:17:01,760 --> 00:17:05,896 and standing on a small rocky outcrop is Lindisfarne Castle. 257 00:17:05,896 --> 00:17:08,200 (bright music) 258 00:17:08,200 --> 00:17:10,300 It was begun in the 16th century 259 00:17:10,300 --> 00:17:12,380 as one of the first military forts 260 00:17:12,380 --> 00:17:15,170 by the Tudor king Henry VIII, 261 00:17:15,170 --> 00:17:18,860 and then completed by his daughter, Queen Elizabeth. 262 00:17:18,860 --> 00:17:20,910 It was designed to protect Holy Island's 263 00:17:20,910 --> 00:17:24,023 natural harbor from attacks by Scotland. 264 00:17:25,470 --> 00:17:29,160 Like so many castles, it later fell into disrepair, 265 00:17:29,160 --> 00:17:31,070 and in the early 20th century, 266 00:17:31,070 --> 00:17:32,890 it was bought from the Crown 267 00:17:32,890 --> 00:17:36,070 and turned into a mock castle and summer home 268 00:17:36,070 --> 00:17:38,960 for a wealthy publishing magnate from London, 269 00:17:38,960 --> 00:17:41,623 by the architect Sir Edwin Lutyens. 270 00:17:42,680 --> 00:17:44,560 Holy Island once played host 271 00:17:44,560 --> 00:17:46,500 to one of the most important centers 272 00:17:46,500 --> 00:17:49,843 of early Christianity in Anglo-Saxon England. 273 00:17:50,750 --> 00:17:53,400 It was the home and original burial ground 274 00:17:53,400 --> 00:17:56,520 of Saint Cuthbert, a great missionary monk 275 00:17:56,520 --> 00:17:59,753 and leader of the early Christian church in this country. 276 00:18:01,410 --> 00:18:04,740 The monastery that once stood here is the place of creation 277 00:18:04,740 --> 00:18:08,000 of the magnificent Lindisfarne Gospels, 278 00:18:08,000 --> 00:18:11,603 considered to be one of the world's most precious books. 279 00:18:15,800 --> 00:18:19,210 Part of the charm of Holy Island is getting there, 280 00:18:19,210 --> 00:18:22,895 as it's linked to the mainland by a long causeway. 281 00:18:22,895 --> 00:18:25,478 (gentle music) 282 00:18:27,700 --> 00:18:31,480 Twice each day, the tide sweeps in from the North Sea 283 00:18:31,480 --> 00:18:34,010 and quickly covers the road. 284 00:18:34,010 --> 00:18:37,040 Visitors must plan their trips around this 285 00:18:37,040 --> 00:18:39,603 and the errant whims of Mother Nature. 286 00:18:40,530 --> 00:18:42,410 The Coastguard occasionally rescues 287 00:18:42,410 --> 00:18:44,790 misguided tourists in their cars 288 00:18:44,790 --> 00:18:48,700 who have not heeded warnings about the coming tide 289 00:18:48,700 --> 00:18:51,170 and decide to make a dash for the island 290 00:18:51,170 --> 00:18:53,813 outside of safe crossing times. 291 00:18:57,055 --> 00:18:59,805 (dramatic music) 292 00:19:02,530 --> 00:19:05,660 Ahead of us is England's northernmost town, 293 00:19:05,660 --> 00:19:08,720 the picturesque Berwick-upon-Tweed. 294 00:19:08,720 --> 00:19:11,230 It was fought over for three centuries, 295 00:19:11,230 --> 00:19:13,860 changing hands between the English and the Scots 296 00:19:13,860 --> 00:19:16,173 no less than 13 times. 297 00:19:17,030 --> 00:19:19,810 It became a walled town in the 14th century 298 00:19:19,810 --> 00:19:22,370 under King Edward I when he fortified it 299 00:19:22,370 --> 00:19:23,893 against Scottish attacks. 300 00:19:24,840 --> 00:19:28,550 The original walls stretched for more than three kilometers 301 00:19:28,550 --> 00:19:31,990 and measured over six meters high, 302 00:19:31,990 --> 00:19:36,940 but by 1405 the fortifications had fallen into disrepair 303 00:19:36,940 --> 00:19:41,210 and couldn't prevent Henry IV from seizing the town. 304 00:19:41,210 --> 00:19:43,843 It has remained English ever since. 305 00:19:48,830 --> 00:19:52,440 The 16th century ramparts and bastions we see today 306 00:19:52,440 --> 00:19:53,930 were constructed during the reign 307 00:19:53,930 --> 00:19:56,343 of Queen Elizabeth I of England. 308 00:19:57,300 --> 00:20:01,340 They are the only example of bastion town walls in Britain, 309 00:20:01,340 --> 00:20:04,253 and one of the best-preserved examples in Europe. 310 00:20:10,720 --> 00:20:13,160 Today, Berwick-upon-Tweed is lauded 311 00:20:13,160 --> 00:20:16,990 as one of the most picturesque towns on the region's coast, 312 00:20:16,990 --> 00:20:18,910 with its red-roofed houses 313 00:20:18,910 --> 00:20:22,160 and a handsome Royal Border Bridge. 314 00:20:22,160 --> 00:20:25,320 It was built by the engineer Robert Stephenson 315 00:20:25,320 --> 00:20:27,920 in the 19th century and is hailed 316 00:20:27,920 --> 00:20:30,653 as one of the finest railway bridges of its type. 317 00:20:32,180 --> 00:20:34,100 The Tweed ranks among the top 318 00:20:34,100 --> 00:20:36,520 salmon-fishing rivers in the world, 319 00:20:36,520 --> 00:20:40,700 but catching a fish here comes with a steep price. 320 00:20:40,700 --> 00:20:43,150 In fact, the system of selling fishing rights 321 00:20:43,150 --> 00:20:45,163 dates back to the 12th century. 322 00:20:46,050 --> 00:20:50,513 A day's fishing here can cost more than $700. 323 00:20:53,180 --> 00:20:55,530 Sighted along the river is a house 324 00:20:55,530 --> 00:20:59,111 that conjures up the sadness of unrequited love. 325 00:20:59,111 --> 00:21:01,694 (gentle music) 326 00:21:05,050 --> 00:21:08,860 Paxton House, built in the 18th century for Patrick Home, 327 00:21:08,860 --> 00:21:13,860 was his unsuccessful attempts to charm a Prussian princess. 328 00:21:13,900 --> 00:21:17,140 It sits along the north bank of the Tweed in Scotland 329 00:21:17,140 --> 00:21:21,020 and is heralded as a neo-Palladian masterpiece. 330 00:21:21,020 --> 00:21:23,880 The collection of Chippendale furniture inside 331 00:21:23,880 --> 00:21:25,630 is almost as stunning 332 00:21:25,630 --> 00:21:28,683 as its beautiful riverside grounds and gardens. 333 00:21:35,510 --> 00:21:38,730 Continuing along the river border on the English side, 334 00:21:38,730 --> 00:21:40,730 we find Norham Castle. 335 00:21:40,730 --> 00:21:43,480 (dramatic music) 336 00:21:46,930 --> 00:21:50,250 For 400 years, this mighty border fortress 337 00:21:50,250 --> 00:21:52,560 earned its title, the most dangerous 338 00:21:52,560 --> 00:21:55,320 and adventurous place in England. 339 00:21:55,320 --> 00:21:58,730 It was besieged by the Scots 13 times, 340 00:21:58,730 --> 00:22:01,263 most famously by Robert Bruce. 341 00:22:05,010 --> 00:22:09,040 Not even its strong 12th-century keep and massive tower 342 00:22:09,040 --> 00:22:13,360 could fend off James IV's heavy cannon in 1513, 343 00:22:13,360 --> 00:22:17,560 when it was taken by the Scots after a five-day siege. 344 00:22:17,560 --> 00:22:19,760 But three weeks later, the Scots suffered 345 00:22:19,760 --> 00:22:22,490 a tragic defeat at the Battle of Flodden, 346 00:22:22,490 --> 00:22:26,433 and the castle was passed back to the English and rebuilt. 347 00:22:32,490 --> 00:22:35,130 The River Tweed also holds a fascination 348 00:22:35,130 --> 00:22:37,440 for lovers of literary history. 349 00:22:37,440 --> 00:22:39,820 Sir Walter Scott sat on the banks 350 00:22:39,820 --> 00:22:44,110 to write "The Lady of the Lake" and "Rob Roy." 351 00:22:44,110 --> 00:22:47,370 And Scotland's beloved national bard, Robert Burns, 352 00:22:47,370 --> 00:22:51,360 was also inspired by the river when he visited Kelso. 353 00:22:51,360 --> 00:22:55,790 He noted Kelso's charm in his journal, its enchanting views, 354 00:22:55,790 --> 00:22:58,600 and the fine bridges over the Tweed. 355 00:22:58,600 --> 00:23:01,130 It's an old market town that flourished 356 00:23:01,130 --> 00:23:05,253 when the monks arrived in 1128 and built an abbey. 357 00:23:06,920 --> 00:23:10,110 On the outskirts of the town is Floors Castle, 358 00:23:10,110 --> 00:23:12,238 standing in its landscaped park. 359 00:23:12,238 --> 00:23:14,821 (gentle music) 360 00:23:19,500 --> 00:23:22,330 It's Scotland's largest inhabited house 361 00:23:22,330 --> 00:23:25,080 and the descendants of the first Duke of Roxburghe 362 00:23:25,080 --> 00:23:28,213 have lived here since it was built in 1721. 363 00:23:29,080 --> 00:23:31,740 The structure we see today was reenvisioned 364 00:23:31,740 --> 00:23:33,200 by the sixth Duke, 365 00:23:33,200 --> 00:23:36,130 who invited leading architect William Playfair 366 00:23:36,130 --> 00:23:40,043 to redesign the original country house in 1837. 367 00:23:41,110 --> 00:23:43,990 Playfair envisioned a fairytale castle 368 00:23:43,990 --> 00:23:46,300 with pinnacles, cupolas, and turrets, 369 00:23:46,300 --> 00:23:49,270 and today, this romantic home is one of 370 00:23:49,270 --> 00:23:52,253 the most visited attractions in the Scottish Borders. 371 00:23:58,470 --> 00:24:00,890 The house was made all the more fascinating 372 00:24:00,890 --> 00:24:02,670 when the eighth Duke married 373 00:24:02,670 --> 00:24:05,590 the American heiress Mary Goelet, 374 00:24:05,590 --> 00:24:07,870 and she arrived to her new home 375 00:24:07,870 --> 00:24:10,890 carrying priceless tapestries and artwork, 376 00:24:10,890 --> 00:24:13,443 which are still part of the collection today. 377 00:24:19,640 --> 00:24:22,900 On this rocky outcrop a few miles from the border 378 00:24:22,900 --> 00:24:26,450 is Smailholm Tower, the last stop on this journey. 379 00:24:26,450 --> 00:24:29,867 (dramatic bagpipe music) 380 00:24:31,270 --> 00:24:34,100 It was built in the first half of the 15th century 381 00:24:34,100 --> 00:24:35,513 by the Pringle family. 382 00:24:36,350 --> 00:24:38,280 Like many people in this area, 383 00:24:38,280 --> 00:24:41,400 their lives were made difficult by the Border Reivers, 384 00:24:41,400 --> 00:24:46,003 and after two costly raids in 1544, they moved away. 385 00:24:47,230 --> 00:24:49,820 A distant relative of Sir Walter Scott 386 00:24:49,820 --> 00:24:52,730 assumed ownership in the 17th century, 387 00:24:52,730 --> 00:24:54,270 but it was eventually abandoned 388 00:24:54,270 --> 00:24:57,710 in favor of a newer house nearby. 389 00:24:57,710 --> 00:25:01,260 Sir Walter Scott was fascinated with the deserted tower 390 00:25:01,260 --> 00:25:03,280 and he grew up listening to the tales 391 00:25:03,280 --> 00:25:05,560 and ballads of the Border countryside 392 00:25:05,560 --> 00:25:07,823 as told to him by his grandmother. 393 00:25:09,440 --> 00:25:11,220 As an adult, he would publish 394 00:25:11,220 --> 00:25:14,937 his much-acclaimed "Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border." 395 00:25:15,860 --> 00:25:18,860 He paid an emotional visit to Smailholm Tower 396 00:25:18,860 --> 00:25:23,820 before his death in 1832, and found that some things 397 00:25:23,820 --> 00:25:26,923 in his beloved country remained the same. 398 00:25:27,770 --> 00:25:30,900 A perfect place to end this journey. 399 00:25:30,900 --> 00:25:33,483 (gentle music) 400 00:25:36,191 --> 00:25:38,941 (dramatic music) 401 00:25:58,560 --> 00:26:01,310 (logo whooshing) 32428

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