Original subtitles

(dramatic orchestral music)

(rousing orchestral music)

- Our journey begins

in the outskirts of Reykjavik,

the capital city of Iceland.

Once a Viking settlement,

it now stands as a symbol of Iceland's prosperity.

Moving northeast, we visit Whale Fjord,

and its abandoned whaling station,

and then into the country's heartland,

where the sagas of the Vikings come to life

in the hamlet of Reykholt.

It takes us to the Hvita River Valley,

with its splendid waterfalls,

to Eiriksstadir, where we find a reconstructed turf house

at the site where explorer Leif Eiriksson was born.

From the Latrabjarg Peninsula in the Westfjords region,

we travel across a windswept landscape and deserted beaches

to view the Latrabjarg cliffs and its abundant bird life,

and then end our journey

at the historic Bjargtangar Lighthouse.

From this small domestic airport near Reykjavik,

we begin our trip north over the capital city,

where the Vikings came ashore in the ninth century,

and began the first permanent settlement.

2/3 of Iceland's population live in and around Reykjavik,

known for its high standard of living

and commitment to sustainable growth.

An isolated island,

this country is separated from mainland Europe

by more than 1,000 kilometers.

Despite is proximity to the Arctic Circle,

locals enjoy a temperate climate

thanks to the warm currents of the Gulf Stream,

which also brings plentiful rainfall.

(thunder rumbling)

The Grundartangi smelting complex by Whale Fjord

is a symbol of industrial success.

Here, nearly 280,000 tons of aluminium

are produced each year.

In 2008, the value of exports here

eclipsed those of the fishing industry

for the first time in the island's history,

but a fierce debate is taking place

about how big a role industry should play

in this pristine island's future.

(tranquil music)

Our journey continues inland, across Whale Fjord,

named by the first settlers,

who noted an abundance of these mammals in its waters.

The deep anchorage provided a safe haven for supply ships

traveling between Europe and North America

during World War II.

Whaling is a tradition with long roots

in the North Atlantic.

Antiquated forms of hunting were practiced

as early as the 12th century,

but commercial techniques didn't reach these shores

until the 19th century.

Today, Iceland is just one of two countries in the world

still involved in this trade,

despite an ongoing moratorium

established by the International Whaling Commission in 1986,

and objection from the global community.

But Iceland has also gained a reputation

as one of Europe's premier whale-watching destinations,

attracting more than 100,000 visitors each year,

all hoping to get a better view

of one of nature's most magnificent creatures.

Standing as a testament to another era,

this whaling station operated from 1948 until 1989,

the longest-running in the country.

Used for onshore operations, fin, sei, and sperm whales

were kill at sea and towed to shore for processing.

During the four decades the station was in operation,

nearly 15,000 whales were processed here.

(tranquil orchestral music)

Traveling north, we find Skorradalurvatn Lake

nestled in the mountain valley of Skorradalur.

At 14 kilometers from tip to tip,

it's one of Iceland's longest,

and is a popular resort community.

North of the lake, salmon swim their way upstream

to deep-water pools in the Grimsa river,

which takes a twisting course through black lava canyons.

We cross a glacial plateau

created by the flow of ancient lava.

Iceland is one of the world's

most volcanically-active regions,

spewing 1/3 of the world's total lava flow

over the past 500 years.

In a wide valley is Reykholt,

a small hamlet of great historical significance,

for what lies at the heart of Iceland's identity

are the sagas,

a large body of medieval literature

written between the 12th and 14th centuries,

which rank among the world's greatest literary treasures.

50 narrators tell the stories

of the first Icelandic settlers

in the 10th and 11th centuries.

Most of the authors are unknown,

with the exception of the great politician,

poet, and historian, Snorri Sturluson,

who lived in Reykholt,

and wrote the "Prose Edda".

Snorri's residence is long gone,

but a thermal pool where he once bathed

has been reconstructed,

along with an old stone tunnel

that led from the pool to his residence,

and where he was murdered by his enemies in 1241.

Today, the hamlet is a cultural center,

boasting a museum and a research institute

specializing in Snorri's literary works.

Continuing north, we find the glacial River Hvita,

old Viking territory,

now full of plotted hayfields and working farms.

Only 1% of the land in Iceland can be used for cultivation.

A short growing season and soil erosion

present significant challenges for farmers.

In their drive towards self-sufficiency,

Icelanders use an abundance of geothermal heat

to power a vast array of greenhouses,

where vegetables, plants,

and even tropical fruits are grown year-round.

Upstream along the Hvita River

is one of the country's most beloved natural landscapes,

the Hraunfossar Waterfall.

Created by a series of rivulets

streaming over the Hallmundarhraun lava field,

cascades of turquoise subterranean water

emerge from beneath the moss-covered lava

to tumble into the river below.

The area was formed by lava

that flowed from a volcanic eruption

beneath the Langjokull Glacier late in the 10th century.

This dramatic play between fire and ice

is a prominent geological feature in Iceland.

A number of the island's volcanoes

are located beneath glaciers.

In 2010, subglacial eruption of Eyjafjallajokull

threw up an ash plume

that grounded Europe's airline fleet for nearly a week,

affecting 10 million travelers across the globe.

A short walk upstream leads to Children's Falls,

named sadly after two of them who fell to their deaths

when crossing a narrow stone arch that once span the river.

The natural arch was destroyed,

and was later replaced by a modern footbridge.

It affords visitors an excellent view of the churning water

making its way through the deep ravine below.

Iceland's natural beauty is complimented

by its impressive collection of waterfalls,

some of which rank high on the list

as the most powerful and awe-inspiring in the world.

(rousing orchestral music)

Heading north across the Borgarfjordur region,

and beyond the hayfields,

the lowland plains gradually give way

to more rugged scenery,

a land without trees.

When the Vikings arrived,

they described an island with trees from mountain to shore.

But logging, sheep grazing, and soil erosion

put an end to their abundance.

A reforestation program has been steadily underway

since the early 1900s,

and millions of saplings have been planted

in the last century.

In a land so bound by the unpredictable ways of nature,

it's no wonder the landscape of Iceland

is a veritable laboratory for scientists.

Recent eruptions have given geologists the chance

to study the interactions between a volcano and ice,

where molten lava breaks through and meets the glacier.

Scientists are looking for clues to the Earth's past

in these dramatic events,

and trying to understand the role climate change

may play in their future.

Shaped by geographical isolation

and the extreme forces of nature,

Icelanders have cultivated a great love

of myth and storytelling through the ages.

Spawning a nation of writers,

one in every 10 people has published a book.

Iceland's literary achievements

are recognized throughout the world.

In 2011, Reykjavik was the non-English-speaking city

to be named a UNESCO City of Literature,

and 99% of the country is literate,

the highest rate in the world.

And Iceland's dramatic landscape has also served

as an inspiration for authors around the world,

including Jules Verne and Tolkien.

To the western heart of the Haukadalur Valley

stands the former farm of Erik the Red,

father of explorer Leif Eiriksson,

and discoverer of Greenland.

Evidence suggests that Leif was born at this site.

A reconstruction of a turf house built here

gives visitors a sense of how this Viking family lived

in the 10th century.

The Iceland turf farm developed from the longhouse,

a Northern European tradition

brought to the country by the Nordic settlers.

Over time, traditional turf dwellings

have virtually disappeared,

but thanks to the Green Revolution,

an interest in earth houses has been revived.

Making our way north once again,

we see the waters of Hvammsfjordur to our west,

flowing inland from the magnificent Broad Bay.

Iceland's weather patterns

bring frequent rainstorms from the North Atlantic,

and dark clouds build up as they sweep across the island.

The abundance of geothermal heat across the country

provides 87% of Iceland's heat

and 25% of its electricity.

The remaining demand is met by hydropower,

which means that almost all of Iceland's energy demands

are met by renewable resources.

Research is now underway to replace fossil fuels

with a form of geothermal electricity derived from hydrogen,

so that even boats, cars, and buses

are powered with clean technology.

That would make Iceland 100% reliant on renewable energy,

a very remarkable feat.

Our journey now takes us to Westfjords,

with its jagged, windswept peninsulas

that reach out into the icy waters of the Denmark Strait,

the westernmost part of Europe.

It's one of the least populated

and least visited regions of Iceland.

Since Westfjord was first settled,

the inhabitants have lived their lives

geographically isolated from the outside world,

spawning an independent and unique local culture.

Just 7,000 people live here today.

(tranquil orchestral music)

Ahead of us is the spectacular sweep of Broad Bay,

made up of shallow seas and small fjords,

and a unique archipelago that includes

nearly 3,000 islands, islets, and skerries.

It boasts one of the most extensive ecosystems in Iceland,

and is best known for its rich bird life,

boasting sea eagles, waders, geese,

and seabirds, among others.

An Old Norse myth claims that the bay

was created by three trolls who dug frantically

to separate the region from the mainland,

flinging rocks between their legs,

and creating the scattered islands we see today.

Utilizing the bay's pristine waters,

certified organic seaweed

is produced at this factory near Reykholar,

and sold to the marketplace of use in everything

from ice cream to agriculture.

Seaweeds have been used here for more than 1,000 years.

It was mentioned in the Icelandic sagas

as a form of sustenance for both rich and poor,

and a highly-valued source of nourishment.

When the Norse settlers arrived,

Broad Bay appeared to be a veritable food pantry,

full of a variety of fish, whales, eggs, and seals.

They had stumbled upon some of the richest and most prolific

fishing grounds in the North Atlantic Ocean.

Gathering riches from the sea

has sustained Iceland for centuries,

and is still the backbone of the economy today,

accounting for 40% of its export market,

and 7% of the workforce.

With a fishing fleet of 800 ships,

1 1/2 million tons of cod, haddock,

and herring are caught each year.

To protect this most valuable resource,

great care has been taken to ensure responsible fishing,

using science and modern technology

to establish limits and quotas.

(tranquil music)

The first Vikings sailed into Eastfjords

over 1,000 years ago,

catching a glimpse of the dramatic landscape

from a distance.

And it's still one of the best ways to see Iceland today,

as passengers follow in the footsteps

of the early Viking explorers.

The ferry in Westfjord serves as a shortcut

for weary travelers departing or sailing

to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula,

and offers superb views of the landscape along the way.

(helicopter blades whirring)

For us, it's one of the few places in the area

where the helicopter can refuel.

(tranquil music)

According to the sagas,

one of the first people to visit this island

was Floki Vilgertharson, a ninth-century Norseman.

He landed here on the south coast of Westfjord,

and found himself stranded in the throes of an epic winter.

When spring arrived, Floki climbed the nearest mountain,

and spying hundreds of floating icebergs in the bay,

he decided to call the place Iceland.

Despite its forbidding name, newcomers eventually sailed

to Iceland from Norway in open ships,

seeking respite from a despot king and the burden of taxes.

The new settlers included not only the Norse,

but also their slave servants,

who had been kidnapped in Viking raids

in Ireland and Scotland.

This blending of Norse and Celtic peoples,

coupled with their geographic isolation,

helped forge the unique nation of Iceland.

Today, around 700,000 tourists arrive

by airplane, cruise ship, and ferry,

more than twice its population.

Moving away from the coast,

the land is the oldest in Iceland,

made from basalt strata

that was laid down more than 70 million years ago.

Although Westfjords occupies just 10% of Iceland's landmass,

it represents 50% of the country's coastline,

with its endless inlets and fjords.

It's a desolate, remote place,

with gravel roads that twist and turn

across windswept mountain passes.

The biggest surprise to the visitor, perhaps,

is to stumble upon a beach in this rocky landscape,

with its multicolored sands that mingle with the sea

for 10 kilometers.

(laid-back music)

Raudasandur Beach is a visual feast of surf and seals,

and red-colored scallop shells that was ashore at high tide.

It's the perfect place for a leisurely walk,

or in our case, a fast flight along the beach.

This coastal region is known for its dramatic tides,

which can measure a six-meter difference

between low and high tides in the spring.

These tides transform the landscape,

covering and then revealing islands in the course of a day.

Ahead of us lies one of the great wonders of Iceland,

if not the world, the Latrabjarg Cliffs.

They rise up to 44 meters above the churning sea,

and serve as home to millions of birds,

including puffins, razorbills, gannets, and guillemots.

They are lured here by the endless rocky outcrops,

which are protected from the northern winds.

An ideal spot for nesting.

Three to four million pairs of puffins

return to Iceland each year to breed,

and they are the true stars at Latrabjarg,

uncannily tame and easy to photograph.

However, decreasing numbers of nesting words in recent years

have alarmed scientists,

who fear that the changing climate

is upsetting the delicate balance of the ecosystem.

Across the peninsula is another stunning beach

on the shores of the Atlantic.

For those looking for a chance to get away from the world,

Breidavik offers the perfect windswept retreat.

It's a place completely removed from the modern world,

and the visitors who brave the winding road to find it

are rewarded with golden sands

and a lovely but formidable sea.

With little competition,

the Breidavik Guesthouse serves as host for visitors.

This small community was once a hub

for the area's fishermen.

Famous for its shipwrecks,

the small isolated community of Hvallatur

is the westernmost settlement in Europe.

It's a place where abandoned fishing shacks

harken back to another time,

and where visitors feel as if they're standing

at the edge of the world.

(brooding music)

A few miles to the west is the Bjargtangar Lighthouse

that stands watch over the sea

at the very tip of the Latrabjarg Peninsula,

the last stop on our journey,

and the westernmost point in Iceland,

as well as at westernmost building in Europe.

(rousing orchestral music)

It's a solid lighthouse, built to withstand extreme weather,

and at only six meters in height,

its home on top of a towering cliff

ensures that it's indeed quite tall enough.

It was established in 1913,

(logo whooshing)

may diminish its usefulness,

but certainly not its romance.

This is a perfect place to end this journey.

(dramatic orchestral music)

(logo whooshing)