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(dramatic orchestral music)
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(rousing orchestral music)
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- Our journey begins
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in the outskirts of Reykjavik,
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the capital city of Iceland.
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Once a Viking settlement,
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it now stands as a symbol
of Iceland's prosperity.
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Moving northeast, we visit Whale Fjord,
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and its abandoned whaling station,
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and then into the country's heartland,
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where the sagas of the
Vikings come to life
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in the hamlet of Reykholt.
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It takes us to the Hvita River Valley,
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with its splendid waterfalls,
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to Eiriksstadir, where we find
a reconstructed turf house
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at the site where explorer
Leif Eiriksson was born.
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From the Latrabjarg Peninsula
in the Westfjords region,
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we travel across a windswept
landscape and deserted beaches
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to view the Latrabjarg cliffs
and its abundant bird life,
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and then end our journey
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at the historic Bjargtangar Lighthouse.
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From this small domestic
airport near Reykjavik,
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we begin our trip north
over the capital city,
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where the Vikings came
ashore in the ninth century,
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and began the first permanent settlement.
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2/3 of Iceland's population
live in and around Reykjavik,
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known for its high standard of living
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and commitment to sustainable growth.
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An isolated island,
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this country is separated
from mainland Europe
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by more than 1,000 kilometers.
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Despite is proximity to the Arctic Circle,
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locals enjoy a temperate climate
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thanks to the warm currents
of the Gulf Stream,
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which also brings plentiful rainfall.
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(thunder rumbling)
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The Grundartangi smelting
complex by Whale Fjord
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is a symbol of industrial success.
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Here, nearly 280,000 tons of aluminium
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are produced each year.
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In 2008, the value of exports here
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eclipsed those of the fishing industry
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for the first time in
the island's history,
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but a fierce debate is taking place
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about how big a role industry should play
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in this pristine island's future.
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(tranquil music)
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Our journey continues
inland, across Whale Fjord,
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named by the first settlers,
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who noted an abundance of
these mammals in its waters.
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The deep anchorage provided
a safe haven for supply ships
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traveling between Europe and North America
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during World War II.
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Whaling is a tradition with long roots
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in the North Atlantic.
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Antiquated forms of hunting were practiced
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as early as the 12th century,
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but commercial techniques
didn't reach these shores
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until the 19th century.
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Today, Iceland is just one
of two countries in the world
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still involved in this trade,
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despite an ongoing moratorium
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established by the International
Whaling Commission in 1986,
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and objection from the global community.
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But Iceland has also gained a reputation
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as one of Europe's premier
whale-watching destinations,
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attracting more than
100,000 visitors each year,
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all hoping to get a better view
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of one of nature's most
magnificent creatures.
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Standing as a testament to another era,
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this whaling station operated
from 1948 until 1989,
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the longest-running in the country.
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Used for onshore operations,
fin, sei, and sperm whales
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were kill at sea and towed
to shore for processing.
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During the four decades the
station was in operation,
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nearly 15,000 whales were processed here.
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(tranquil orchestral music)
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Traveling north, we find
Skorradalurvatn Lake
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nestled in the mountain
valley of Skorradalur.
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At 14 kilometers from tip to tip,
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it's one of Iceland's longest,
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and is a popular resort community.
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North of the lake, salmon
swim their way upstream
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to deep-water pools in the Grimsa river,
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which takes a twisting course
through black lava canyons.
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We cross a glacial plateau
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created by the flow of ancient lava.
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Iceland is one of the world's
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most volcanically-active regions,
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spewing 1/3 of the world's total lava flow
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over the past 500 years.
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In a wide valley is Reykholt,
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a small hamlet of great
historical significance,
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for what lies at the heart
of Iceland's identity
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are the sagas,
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a large body of medieval literature
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written between the
12th and 14th centuries,
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which rank among the world's
greatest literary treasures.
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50 narrators tell the stories
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of the first Icelandic settlers
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in the 10th and 11th centuries.
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Most of the authors are unknown,
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with the exception of
the great politician,
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poet, and historian, Snorri Sturluson,
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who lived in Reykholt,
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and wrote the "Prose Edda".
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Snorri's residence is long gone,
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but a thermal pool where he once bathed
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has been reconstructed,
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along with an old stone tunnel
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that led from the pool to his residence,
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and where he was murdered
by his enemies in 1241.
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Today, the hamlet is a cultural center,
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boasting a museum and a research institute
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specializing in Snorri's literary works.
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Continuing north, we find
the glacial River Hvita,
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old Viking territory,
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now full of plotted
hayfields and working farms.
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Only 1% of the land in Iceland
can be used for cultivation.
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A short growing season and soil erosion
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present significant
challenges for farmers.
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In their drive towards self-sufficiency,
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Icelanders use an abundance
of geothermal heat
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to power a vast array of greenhouses,
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where vegetables, plants,
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and even tropical fruits
are grown year-round.
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Upstream along the Hvita River
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is one of the country's most
beloved natural landscapes,
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the Hraunfossar Waterfall.
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Created by a series of rivulets
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streaming over the
Hallmundarhraun lava field,
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cascades of turquoise subterranean water
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emerge from beneath the moss-covered lava
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to tumble into the river below.
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The area was formed by lava
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that flowed from a volcanic eruption
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beneath the Langjokull Glacier
late in the 10th century.
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This dramatic play between fire and ice
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is a prominent geological
feature in Iceland.
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A number of the island's volcanoes
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are located beneath glaciers.
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In 2010, subglacial
eruption of Eyjafjallajokull
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threw up an ash plume
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that grounded Europe's airline
fleet for nearly a week,
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affecting 10 million
travelers across the globe.
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A short walk upstream
leads to Children's Falls,
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named sadly after two of
them who fell to their deaths
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when crossing a narrow stone
arch that once span the river.
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The natural arch was destroyed,
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and was later replaced
by a modern footbridge.
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It affords visitors an excellent
view of the churning water
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making its way through
the deep ravine below.
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Iceland's natural beauty is complimented
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by its impressive
collection of waterfalls,
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some of which rank high on the list
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as the most powerful and
awe-inspiring in the world.
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(rousing orchestral music)
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Heading north across the
Borgarfjordur region,
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and beyond the hayfields,
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the lowland plains gradually give way
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to more rugged scenery,
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a land without trees.
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When the Vikings arrived,
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they described an island with
trees from mountain to shore.
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But logging, sheep
grazing, and soil erosion
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put an end to their abundance.
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A reforestation program
has been steadily underway
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since the early 1900s,
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and millions of saplings have been planted
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in the last century.
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In a land so bound by the
unpredictable ways of nature,
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it's no wonder the landscape of Iceland
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is a veritable laboratory for scientists.
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Recent eruptions have
given geologists the chance
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to study the interactions
between a volcano and ice,
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where molten lava breaks
through and meets the glacier.
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Scientists are looking for
clues to the Earth's past
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in these dramatic events,
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and trying to understand
the role climate change
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may play in their future.
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Shaped by geographical isolation
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and the extreme forces of nature,
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Icelanders have cultivated a great love
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of myth and storytelling through the ages.
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Spawning a nation of writers,
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one in every 10 people
has published a book.
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Iceland's literary achievements
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are recognized throughout the world.
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In 2011, Reykjavik was the
non-English-speaking city
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to be named a UNESCO City of Literature,
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and 99% of the country is literate,
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the highest rate in the world.
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And Iceland's dramatic
landscape has also served
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as an inspiration for
authors around the world,
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including Jules Verne and Tolkien.
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To the western heart of
the Haukadalur Valley
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stands the former farm of Erik the Red,
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father of explorer Leif Eiriksson,
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and discoverer of Greenland.
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Evidence suggests that
Leif was born at this site.
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A reconstruction of a
turf house built here
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gives visitors a sense of
how this Viking family lived
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in the 10th century.
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The Iceland turf farm
developed from the longhouse,
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a Northern European tradition
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brought to the country
by the Nordic settlers.
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Over time, traditional turf dwellings
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have virtually disappeared,
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but thanks to the Green Revolution,
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an interest in earth
houses has been revived.
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Making our way north once again,
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we see the waters of
Hvammsfjordur to our west,
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flowing inland from the
magnificent Broad Bay.
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Iceland's weather patterns
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bring frequent rainstorms
from the North Atlantic,
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and dark clouds build up as
they sweep across the island.
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The abundance of geothermal
heat across the country
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provides 87% of Iceland's heat
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and 25% of its electricity.
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The remaining demand is met by hydropower,
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which means that almost all
of Iceland's energy demands
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are met by renewable resources.
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Research is now underway
to replace fossil fuels
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with a form of geothermal
electricity derived from hydrogen,
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00:14:06,420 --> 00:14:09,360
so that even boats, cars, and buses
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are powered with clean technology.
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That would make Iceland 100%
reliant on renewable energy,
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a very remarkable feat.
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Our journey now takes us to Westfjords,
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with its jagged, windswept peninsulas
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that reach out into the icy
waters of the Denmark Strait,
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the westernmost part of Europe.
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It's one of the least populated
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and least visited regions of Iceland.
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Since Westfjord was first settled,
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the inhabitants have lived their lives
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geographically isolated
from the outside world,
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spawning an independent
and unique local culture.
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Just 7,000 people live here today.
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(tranquil orchestral music)
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Ahead of us is the spectacular
sweep of Broad Bay,
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made up of shallow seas and small fjords,
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and a unique archipelago that includes
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nearly 3,000 islands,
islets, and skerries.
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It boasts one of the most
extensive ecosystems in Iceland,
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and is best known for its rich bird life,
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boasting sea eagles, waders, geese,
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and seabirds, among others.
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An Old Norse myth claims that the bay
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was created by three
trolls who dug frantically
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to separate the region from the mainland,
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flinging rocks between their legs,
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and creating the scattered
islands we see today.
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Utilizing the bay's pristine waters,
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certified organic seaweed
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is produced at this
factory near Reykholar,
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and sold to the marketplace
of use in everything
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from ice cream to agriculture.
259
00:16:01,150 --> 00:16:05,550
Seaweeds have been used here
for more than 1,000 years.
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00:16:05,550 --> 00:16:07,860
It was mentioned in the Icelandic sagas
261
00:16:07,860 --> 00:16:11,450
as a form of sustenance
for both rich and poor,
262
00:16:11,450 --> 00:16:14,183
and a highly-valued source of nourishment.
263
00:16:16,310 --> 00:16:18,230
When the Norse settlers arrived,
264
00:16:18,230 --> 00:16:21,290
Broad Bay appeared to be
a veritable food pantry,
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00:16:21,290 --> 00:16:25,670
full of a variety of fish,
whales, eggs, and seals.
266
00:16:25,670 --> 00:16:28,700
They had stumbled upon some of
the richest and most prolific
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fishing grounds in the
North Atlantic Ocean.
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00:16:33,410 --> 00:16:35,230
Gathering riches from the sea
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has sustained Iceland for centuries,
270
00:16:37,780 --> 00:16:40,720
and is still the backbone
of the economy today,
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00:16:40,720 --> 00:16:44,310
accounting for 40% of its export market,
272
00:16:44,310 --> 00:16:46,823
and 7% of the workforce.
273
00:16:47,720 --> 00:16:50,380
With a fishing fleet of 800 ships,
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00:16:50,380 --> 00:16:53,390
1 1/2 million tons of cod, haddock,
275
00:16:53,390 --> 00:16:55,460
and herring are caught each year.
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00:16:56,530 --> 00:16:58,970
To protect this most valuable resource,
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00:16:58,970 --> 00:17:02,980
great care has been taken to
ensure responsible fishing,
278
00:17:02,980 --> 00:17:05,450
using science and modern technology
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00:17:05,450 --> 00:17:07,943
to establish limits and quotas.
280
00:17:12,977 --> 00:17:15,727
(tranquil music)
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00:17:17,710 --> 00:17:20,010
The first Vikings sailed into Eastfjords
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00:17:20,010 --> 00:17:21,840
over 1,000 years ago,
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00:17:21,840 --> 00:17:24,500
catching a glimpse of
the dramatic landscape
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00:17:24,500 --> 00:17:25,523
from a distance.
285
00:17:27,970 --> 00:17:31,350
And it's still one of the best
ways to see Iceland today,
286
00:17:31,350 --> 00:17:33,650
as passengers follow in the footsteps
287
00:17:33,650 --> 00:17:35,693
of the early Viking explorers.
288
00:17:39,170 --> 00:17:42,100
The ferry in Westfjord
serves as a shortcut
289
00:17:42,100 --> 00:17:44,580
for weary travelers departing or sailing
290
00:17:44,580 --> 00:17:46,620
to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula,
291
00:17:46,620 --> 00:17:50,283
and offers superb views of
the landscape along the way.
292
00:17:51,389 --> 00:17:55,650
(helicopter blades whirring)
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00:17:55,650 --> 00:17:58,350
For us, it's one of the
few places in the area
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00:17:58,350 --> 00:18:00,383
where the helicopter can refuel.
295
00:18:10,458 --> 00:18:13,208
(tranquil music)
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00:18:17,620 --> 00:18:18,950
According to the sagas,
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00:18:18,950 --> 00:18:21,410
one of the first people
to visit this island
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00:18:21,410 --> 00:18:25,053
was Floki Vilgertharson,
a ninth-century Norseman.
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00:18:26,530 --> 00:18:30,260
He landed here on the
south coast of Westfjord,
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00:18:30,260 --> 00:18:34,283
and found himself stranded in
the throes of an epic winter.
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00:18:48,730 --> 00:18:52,470
When spring arrived, Floki
climbed the nearest mountain,
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00:18:52,470 --> 00:18:56,020
and spying hundreds of
floating icebergs in the bay,
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00:18:56,020 --> 00:18:58,853
he decided to call the place Iceland.
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00:19:05,290 --> 00:19:08,750
Despite its forbidding name,
newcomers eventually sailed
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00:19:08,750 --> 00:19:11,300
to Iceland from Norway in open ships,
306
00:19:11,300 --> 00:19:15,623
seeking respite from a despot
king and the burden of taxes.
307
00:19:17,110 --> 00:19:20,130
The new settlers included
not only the Norse,
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00:19:20,130 --> 00:19:22,350
but also their slave servants,
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00:19:22,350 --> 00:19:24,560
who had been kidnapped in Viking raids
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00:19:24,560 --> 00:19:26,233
in Ireland and Scotland.
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00:19:29,010 --> 00:19:31,940
This blending of Norse and Celtic peoples,
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coupled with their geographic isolation,
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00:19:34,300 --> 00:19:37,673
helped forge the unique nation of Iceland.
314
00:19:38,840 --> 00:19:42,080
Today, around 700,000 tourists arrive
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00:19:42,080 --> 00:19:45,500
by airplane, cruise ship, and ferry,
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00:19:45,500 --> 00:19:47,543
more than twice its population.
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00:19:55,760 --> 00:19:57,380
Moving away from the coast,
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00:19:57,380 --> 00:19:59,720
the land is the oldest in Iceland,
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made from basalt strata
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00:20:01,510 --> 00:20:05,163
that was laid down more
than 70 million years ago.
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00:20:09,050 --> 00:20:13,310
Although Westfjords occupies
just 10% of Iceland's landmass,
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00:20:13,310 --> 00:20:17,540
it represents 50% of
the country's coastline,
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00:20:17,540 --> 00:20:20,810
with its endless inlets and fjords.
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00:20:20,810 --> 00:20:23,100
It's a desolate, remote place,
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00:20:23,100 --> 00:20:25,690
with gravel roads that twist and turn
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00:20:25,690 --> 00:20:28,023
across windswept mountain passes.
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00:20:31,150 --> 00:20:33,850
The biggest surprise to
the visitor, perhaps,
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00:20:33,850 --> 00:20:37,150
is to stumble upon a beach
in this rocky landscape,
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00:20:37,150 --> 00:20:40,360
with its multicolored sands
that mingle with the sea
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for 10 kilometers.
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00:20:42,299 --> 00:20:45,132
(laid-back music)
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00:20:51,524 --> 00:20:56,240
Raudasandur Beach is a visual
feast of surf and seals,
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00:20:56,240 --> 00:21:01,240
and red-colored scallop shells
that was ashore at high tide.
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00:21:12,720 --> 00:21:15,870
It's the perfect place
for a leisurely walk,
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00:21:15,870 --> 00:21:19,543
or in our case, a fast
flight along the beach.
336
00:21:22,710 --> 00:21:26,250
This coastal region is known
for its dramatic tides,
337
00:21:26,250 --> 00:21:28,670
which can measure a six-meter difference
338
00:21:28,670 --> 00:21:31,113
between low and high tides in the spring.
339
00:21:33,170 --> 00:21:35,800
These tides transform the landscape,
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00:21:35,800 --> 00:21:39,453
covering and then revealing
islands in the course of a day.
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00:21:41,450 --> 00:21:44,820
Ahead of us lies one of the
great wonders of Iceland,
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if not the world, the Latrabjarg Cliffs.
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00:21:49,710 --> 00:21:54,220
They rise up to 44 meters
above the churning sea,
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00:21:54,220 --> 00:21:56,750
and serve as home to millions of birds,
345
00:21:56,750 --> 00:22:01,750
including puffins, razorbills,
gannets, and guillemots.
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00:22:01,830 --> 00:22:05,170
They are lured here by the
endless rocky outcrops,
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00:22:05,170 --> 00:22:07,650
which are protected
from the northern winds.
348
00:22:07,650 --> 00:22:09,693
An ideal spot for nesting.
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00:22:12,070 --> 00:22:14,850
Three to four million pairs of puffins
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00:22:14,850 --> 00:22:17,770
return to Iceland each year to breed,
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and they are the true stars at Latrabjarg,
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uncannily tame and easy to photograph.
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However, decreasing numbers of
nesting words in recent years
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00:22:29,460 --> 00:22:31,190
have alarmed scientists,
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00:22:31,190 --> 00:22:33,310
who fear that the changing climate
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is upsetting the delicate
balance of the ecosystem.
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Across the peninsula is
another stunning beach
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on the shores of the Atlantic.
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00:22:46,630 --> 00:22:49,553
For those looking for a chance
to get away from the world,
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Breidavik offers the
perfect windswept retreat.
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00:22:58,110 --> 00:23:01,150
It's a place completely
removed from the modern world,
362
00:23:01,150 --> 00:23:04,230
and the visitors who brave
the winding road to find it
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00:23:04,230 --> 00:23:06,640
are rewarded with golden sands
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00:23:06,640 --> 00:23:09,273
and a lovely but formidable sea.
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00:23:10,750 --> 00:23:12,200
With little competition,
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the Breidavik Guesthouse
serves as host for visitors.
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This small community was once a hub
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00:23:19,000 --> 00:23:20,383
for the area's fishermen.
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00:23:23,280 --> 00:23:24,800
Famous for its shipwrecks,
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the small isolated community of Hvallatur
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is the westernmost settlement in Europe.
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It's a place where
abandoned fishing shacks
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harken back to another time,
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00:23:35,820 --> 00:23:38,910
and where visitors feel
as if they're standing
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00:23:38,910 --> 00:23:40,160
at the edge of the world.
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(brooding music)
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A few miles to the west is
the Bjargtangar Lighthouse
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00:24:00,760 --> 00:24:02,740
that stands watch over the sea
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00:24:02,740 --> 00:24:05,980
at the very tip of the
Latrabjarg Peninsula,
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the last stop on our journey,
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00:24:07,630 --> 00:24:10,030
and the westernmost point in Iceland,
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00:24:10,030 --> 00:24:12,313
as well as at westernmost
building in Europe.
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00:24:24,728 --> 00:24:28,311
(rousing orchestral music)
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00:24:41,550 --> 00:24:45,290
It's a solid lighthouse, built
to withstand extreme weather,
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and at only six meters in height,
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00:24:47,550 --> 00:24:49,860
its home on top of a towering cliff
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00:24:49,860 --> 00:24:53,357
ensures that it's indeed
quite tall enough.
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It was established in 1913,
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00:25:59,194 --> 00:26:01,944
(logo whooshing)
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00:25:20,430 --> 00:25:22,570
may diminish its usefulness,
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00:25:22,570 --> 00:25:25,093
but certainly not its romance.
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00:25:26,030 --> 00:25:29,623
This is a perfect place
to end this journey.
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00:25:36,324 --> 00:25:39,991
(dramatic orchestral music)
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00:25:59,194 --> 00:26:01,944
(logo whooshing)
31244
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