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(upbeat music)
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- Our journey
begins in the port of Avonmouth
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on the Bristol Channel.
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Before following the river
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to the historic city and
port of Bristol itself.
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Our journey then heads south
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towards the Mendip Hills
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and one of England's
greatest natural treasures,
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Cheddar Gorge, the largest
canyon in the country.
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We'll then continue south to
explore the Somerset levels,
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an area of wetlands that
have been inhabited by man
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for half a million years.
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We cross the sandstone
hills of the Quantocks
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before passing over the
resort town of Minehead
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and into the Exmoor National Park
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and its dramatic
coastline of wooded cliffs
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and sandy beaches.
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We then cross the park
to the north Devon coast
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and the picturesque,
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world famous hillside village of Clovelly,
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00:02:03,890 --> 00:02:05,433
where our journey ends.
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On the Severn Estuary at
the mouth of the River Avon,
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lies a small town called
appropriately enough Avonmouth.
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The port here was first opened in 1877
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and today is one of the UK's
major facilities of its kind
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for chilled foods.
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Another vital commodity
that comes in is coal
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and Avonmouth has the capacity to unload
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10,000 tons a day.
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The port was created here to compete
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with the success of Liverpool
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as larger 19th century ships
could not get up to Bristol
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through the narrow Avon gorge.
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And spanning the gorge,
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as it has done for more than 150 years,
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is the Clifton Suspension Bridge.
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Designed by the great Victorian engineer
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Isambard Kingdom Brunel,
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it suffered a number of setbacks
on its way to completion,
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including the Bristol riots
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which erupted only days
after its construction began
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in June of 1831.
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As a result of these delays,
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Brunel, sadly, did not live to
see his masterpiece finished,
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it was completed as his memorial
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and finally opened with a grand ceremony
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on the 8th December 1864.
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It has stood as the very
symbol of Bristol ever since.
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Renowned for its beauty,
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the bridge has also
played host to a number
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of significant events
including the very first
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modern bungee jump in 1979.
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And despite being built to accommodate
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19th century horse drawn carriages,
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Clifton Suspension Bridge is still today
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able to meet the needs
of the four million cars
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that cross it each year.
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The largest city in the
South West of England
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is the newly revitalized Bristol.
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Thanks in part to its most infamous son,
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the mischievous street
artist known only as Banksy,
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what began as a simple port town
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has in recent decades,
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become a thriving artistic center
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with a rich connection to
its own exciting history.
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And one of the most beautiful
pieces of that history
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is the S.S. Great Britain.
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She now stands as a floating museum
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in the dock where she
was built in the 1840s.
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The first iron hull steamer
to cross the Atlantic.
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Not far from the city proper
is the village of Clifton.
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With its hilltops crowned
by picturesque rows
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of curving Georgian terraces.
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This former spa resort
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remains Bristol's most elegant suburb.
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Rising out of the lush green
forests of North Somerset,
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a few kilometers south west of Bristol
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is the stunning gothic revival house
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known as Tyntesfield.
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This fairytale like mansion,
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punctuated by frequent
pinnacles and turrets
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actually began life as
a simple hunting lodge,
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but was transformed into
a luxurious country house
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in the 1860s by businessman William Gibbs
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after he purchased the
land 30 years earlier.
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(upbeat music)
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This tour de force of
19th century architecture
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remained virtually unknown
to the outside world
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until very recently.
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In 2002, with the death of
Tyntesfield's last owner,
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Richard Gibbs, the entire
estate was in danger of collapse
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and may have been once
again, lost to private wealth
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or even demolished had the National Trust
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not swept in at the eleventh
hour to purchase the mansion
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and restore it to its former glory.
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And only 10 days after the purchase,
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Tyntesfield was open to the public
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so all could experience the wonder
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of this hidden treasure
house from the Victorian age.
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(upbeat music)
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Nearby is the hill fort Cadbury Camp.
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The picturesque grass embankments
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encircling approximately
28,000 square meters
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are manmade fortifications.
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The exact details of the origin
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of this iron age hill fort are unknown.
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But it's believed to have been constructed
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by the local Dobunni tribe
in the 6th century B.C.
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Archeological discoveries of the camp
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have indicated that the site was inhabited
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well before the fort was built,
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dating it back to the last
days of the stone age.
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Just to the south west on the
shores of the Severn estuary
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is the resort town of Clevedon
and its historic pier.
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Stretching across the
water for 312 meters,
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this magnificent structure was built
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from 370 tons of man handled wrought iron
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and officially opened to the public
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on Easter Monday 1869.
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Thanks to a pain staking restoration,
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the pier continues to be a popular place
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for visitors to stroll along
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and anglers to leisurely
while away the days.
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Traveling south we continue
to the breathtaking
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limestone cliffs of Cheddar Gorge.
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(upbeat music)
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Carved into the landscape by
the waters of melting glaciers
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during the last Ice Age,
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this is the deepest
natural canyon in England.
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Rising in some places as high
as 138 meters above the road
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that snakes through the nearly
five kilometer long ravine.
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(upbeat music)
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The cliffs that comprise the gorge
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offer some 350 officially
graded rock climbing routes.
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There are caves in the rock face
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and several are open to the public.
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And it was in one of these in 1903
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that Briton's oldest complete
human skeleton was found.
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Simply named Cheddar man,
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it was shown to be 9,000 years old.
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But carbon dating points to the caves
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having been inhabited for
many thousands of years
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before he lived and died here.
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Today Cheddar Gorge is visited
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by more than half a
million people each year
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and regularly included
in virtually every list
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of Britain's greatest natural attractions.
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(upbeat music)
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These are the Somerset levels.
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They are very flat and
largely below sea level.
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And one of England's
largest natural wet lands
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covering 70,000 hectares
across the county of Somerset.
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(upbeat music)
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The Romans were the first
to build flood defenses
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digging an intricate network
of channels and ditches
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to drain the levels and protect the land
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from the tides of the Severn estuary.
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In the Middle Ages,
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it fell to monks from nearby monasteries
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to draw off the waters
and manage the land.
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In the 17th century,
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Dutch engineers took over the complex job
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and today the levels are
maintained by drainage boards
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and local farmers.
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At the mouth of the River
Parrett and Bridgewater Bay
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is the popular resort of Burnham-on-Sea.
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Until the arrival of the railway in 1858,
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Burnham was little more than
a few cottages and a church.
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But by the 1860s,
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this sleepy seaside village
had woken up to a new identity
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as a holiday destination.
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Also on the north Somerset coast
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is the decommissioned Hinckley
Point nuclear power station
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which was built in 1965.
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In late 1999, Hinckley Point was shut down
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following a safety review.
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But a new plant will be
brought to life here in 2023
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and which will remain in
operation for another 60 years.
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Inland from the coast are
the majestic sandstone hills
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called the Quantocks.
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Drawing a 19 kilometer crescent
along the edge of Somerset.
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A mixture of valleys, moors
and ancient wilderness,
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they have been designated
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as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty
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and are beloved by hikers and cyclists
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who come by their thousands each year
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to explore this beautiful landscape,
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including pristine summits and deep woods.
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All of which have been inhabited
since pre-historic times.
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(upbeat music)
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This is the West Somerset Railway.
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(upbeat music)
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It was originally opened in 1862
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to accommodate journeys
between Taunton and Watchet.
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(upbeat music)
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Four to six trains carried
passengers and cargo
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along this route for more than 100 years
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until the line was closed in 1971.
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Only five years later,
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it was re-opened as a private concern
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and today it remains the longest
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standard gauge heritage
railway in the United Kingdom.
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Perched dramatically on a wooded
hill overlooking the coast
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is Dunster Castle.
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This stronghold began
as a simple hill fort
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and has been occupied for
more than a millennium,
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600 years of which saw it
owned by the Luttrell family.
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In 1650, following a
fierce siege and occupation
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during the English Civil War,
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Cromwell's parliamentary forces ordered
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that the still defensible
fortress be demolished.
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00:14:04,414 --> 00:14:09,414
200 men spent 12 days smashing
the castle walls to rubble.
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00:14:10,170 --> 00:14:13,135
But fortunately, the
mansion was left standing
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and is now open to the public.
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Moving north up the coast,
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we find the seaside town of Minehead,
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offering residents and visitors
a cafe lined promenade,
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sandy beaches and the starting point
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of the nation's longest
countryside walking trail.
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Minehead serves as the
gateway to the expansive,
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uninterrupted serenity
of Exmoor National Park,
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one of the UK's greatest treasures.
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(upbeat music)
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Here, huge wide open skies
serve as a perfect backdrop
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to coal black cliffs
containing exposed fossils
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inside sheer walls that plunge down
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to the golden sand
beaches and sheltered bays
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of the Bristol channel.
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One of the most striking vistas in Exmoor
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is the pebble beach
breakwater at Porlock Weir.
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This is a popular hiking trail
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which leads to the small
harbor of the same name,
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which has a history stretching
back over 1,000 years
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to the days of the Ango-Saxons
who plundered the area.
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00:15:35,490 --> 00:15:39,063
Later centuries saw coal
delivered from the Welsh mines
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and in World War Two,
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the surrounding forest
produced thousands of pit props
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which went back to Wales as
coal production increased.
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00:15:52,100 --> 00:15:54,879
The Exmoor coastline is
one of the most remote
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in all of the UK,
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stretching for nearly 60 kilometers.
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It's also the highest in England and Wales
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with Culbone Hill rising to
433 meters above the sea.
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00:16:09,960 --> 00:16:12,260
Tucked away here on the
border between the counties
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of Somerset and Devon is the
secluded Glenthorne house.
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Built in 1930 by the
Reverend Walter Halliday
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who traded his clerical
collar for a fine estate
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when he inherited his
father's vast fortune,
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00:16:26,910 --> 00:16:30,413
the house remains in the
Halliday family to this day.
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A few miles to the west,
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the dramatic coastline of north Devon
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leads to the picturesque twin
towns of Lynton and Lynmouth.
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The sleepier Lynton sits
atop steep, wooded cliffs
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overlooking the lively
seaside town of Lynmouth
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nearly 200 meters below.
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A water powered cliff side railway,
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00:16:57,810 --> 00:17:00,900
driven by the West Lyn
River more than a mile away
258
00:17:00,900 --> 00:17:03,980
connects the two villages
offering a charming
259
00:17:03,980 --> 00:17:06,403
and convenient mode of transport.
260
00:17:07,600 --> 00:17:10,010
Renowned for their unblemished beauty,
261
00:17:10,010 --> 00:17:13,680
Lynton and Lynmouth has hosted
a number of legendary guests
262
00:17:13,680 --> 00:17:15,030
over the years.
263
00:17:15,030 --> 00:17:17,358
Including the writer C.S. Lewis
264
00:17:17,358 --> 00:17:20,363
and the poet Percy Bysshe Shelley.
265
00:17:22,230 --> 00:17:25,530
Sadly, the towns have
seen tragedy as well.
266
00:17:25,530 --> 00:17:28,080
On the 15th August 1952,
267
00:17:28,080 --> 00:17:30,053
after a day of torrential rainfall,
268
00:17:30,053 --> 00:17:32,827
the powerful West and East Lyn Rivers
269
00:17:32,827 --> 00:17:34,780
overflowed their banks,
270
00:17:34,780 --> 00:17:38,090
crushing a number of homes in their paths.
271
00:17:38,090 --> 00:17:43,090
All told, 28 souls were lost
to the floodwaters that day.
272
00:17:48,640 --> 00:17:50,900
Just over a kilometer from Lynton
273
00:17:50,900 --> 00:17:54,210
finds us inside the
extraordinary stone world
274
00:17:54,210 --> 00:17:56,633
known as the Valley of the Rocks.
275
00:17:58,680 --> 00:18:01,590
It's believed that this
incredible panorama
276
00:18:01,590 --> 00:18:05,430
was crafted by the rushing
waters of the West Lyn River
277
00:18:05,430 --> 00:18:07,400
which once flowed through here
278
00:18:07,400 --> 00:18:11,163
before the cliffs were
dissected by coastal erosion.
279
00:18:12,460 --> 00:18:14,671
A different aquatic force is responsible
280
00:18:14,671 --> 00:18:18,450
for these incredible rock formations.
281
00:18:18,450 --> 00:18:21,740
With outstanding names
like Devil's Cheese Ring
282
00:18:21,740 --> 00:18:25,840
and Ragged Jack, they were
sculpted by the frigid hands
283
00:18:25,840 --> 00:18:28,903
of glacier runoff during the last Ice Age.
284
00:18:29,740 --> 00:18:32,740
The spectacular landscape
has caught the eye
285
00:18:32,740 --> 00:18:35,380
of a number of great poets over the years
286
00:18:35,380 --> 00:18:38,840
including William Wordsworth
and Robert Southey
287
00:18:38,840 --> 00:18:41,627
who described the valley's rock faces as
288
00:18:41,627 --> 00:18:44,807
"the very bones and
skeletons of the Earth."
289
00:18:49,030 --> 00:18:51,140
Exmoor National Park is much more
290
00:18:51,140 --> 00:18:53,920
than just a beautiful coastline
291
00:18:53,920 --> 00:18:57,420
as it encompasses a unique
combination of moors,
292
00:18:57,420 --> 00:19:00,290
forests, valleys and farms.
293
00:19:00,290 --> 00:19:04,166
It was designated as a
national park in 1954
294
00:19:04,166 --> 00:19:08,000
and today, not only is the
land here safe guarded,
295
00:19:08,000 --> 00:19:09,960
so are the skies.
296
00:19:09,960 --> 00:19:14,720
In 2011, Exmoor became the
first place in all of Europe
297
00:19:14,720 --> 00:19:17,614
to have been awarded
special protected status
298
00:19:17,614 --> 00:19:21,919
by the International Dark Sky Association.
299
00:19:21,919 --> 00:19:25,170
The park is also home to a wide range
300
00:19:25,170 --> 00:19:26,920
of plant and animal life,
301
00:19:26,920 --> 00:19:30,370
non more majestic than the red deer.
302
00:19:30,370 --> 00:19:33,950
These are the largest native
land mammals in the UK
303
00:19:33,950 --> 00:19:36,960
and though they have survived
in very few places in Britain,
304
00:19:36,960 --> 00:19:40,081
here in Exmoor, they continue to flourish
305
00:19:40,081 --> 00:19:43,313
as they have done since
pre-historic times.
306
00:19:44,770 --> 00:19:46,330
Their stronghold in the park
307
00:19:46,330 --> 00:19:49,580
is owed to the fact that
Exmoor was once a Royal Forest
308
00:19:49,580 --> 00:19:51,010
and hunting ground.
309
00:19:51,010 --> 00:19:54,700
With strict laws prohibiting
any unauthorized killing
310
00:19:54,700 --> 00:19:55,533
of the deer.
311
00:19:58,160 --> 00:20:01,020
As we head southwest,
returning to the coast,
312
00:20:01,020 --> 00:20:03,570
we pass over a patchwork of farms
313
00:20:03,570 --> 00:20:07,330
where more than 1,000 different
types of plants and grasses
314
00:20:07,330 --> 00:20:09,860
grow in much the same fashion as they have
315
00:20:09,860 --> 00:20:12,140
since medieval times.
316
00:20:12,140 --> 00:20:14,930
Sheep, ponies and perhaps something
317
00:20:14,930 --> 00:20:18,883
more mysterious and deadly
roams the tranquil farm lands.
318
00:20:19,730 --> 00:20:23,100
Local legend tells of an
elusive cat like creature
319
00:20:23,100 --> 00:20:25,346
known as the beast of Exmoor
320
00:20:25,346 --> 00:20:28,300
that has prowled these grounds for decades
321
00:20:28,300 --> 00:20:31,543
feasting on livestock whenever it likes.
322
00:20:36,461 --> 00:20:37,880
Back by the sea,
323
00:20:37,880 --> 00:20:41,290
we find ourselves over the
sandy beaches of Braunton
324
00:20:41,290 --> 00:20:43,320
on the north Devon coast,
325
00:20:43,320 --> 00:20:47,673
which hosts the nation's
first surf museum.
326
00:20:47,673 --> 00:20:52,143
These long, flat beaches most
some of England's best waves
327
00:20:52,143 --> 00:20:54,344
and are famous for having once hosted
328
00:20:54,344 --> 00:20:58,227
more than 700 wrought iron
hospital beds on the cover
329
00:20:58,227 --> 00:21:03,227
of Pink Floyd's 1987 album 'A
Momentary Lapse of Reason'.
330
00:21:04,812 --> 00:21:08,364
Braunton's beaches also
played a significant role
331
00:21:08,364 --> 00:21:10,073
in military history.
332
00:21:11,320 --> 00:21:13,230
It was on these very sands
333
00:21:13,230 --> 00:21:15,962
that Lieutenant Colonel Paul W Thompson
334
00:21:15,962 --> 00:21:18,580
trained the United States forces
335
00:21:18,580 --> 00:21:20,750
in preparation for their D-Day assault
336
00:21:20,750 --> 00:21:23,423
on the heavily fortified
beaches of Normandy.
337
00:21:24,550 --> 00:21:26,960
But the area is certainly most famous
338
00:21:26,960 --> 00:21:29,710
for its spectacular network of sand dunes,
339
00:21:29,710 --> 00:21:32,143
known as the Braunton Burrows.
340
00:21:33,253 --> 00:21:35,840
This is the largest system of its kind
341
00:21:35,840 --> 00:21:37,780
in the United kingdom.
342
00:21:37,780 --> 00:21:41,997
The dunes form the core of the
North Devon Biosphere Reserve
343
00:21:41,997 --> 00:21:45,160
held alongside the likes of Mount Vesuvius
344
00:21:45,160 --> 00:21:48,863
and the Gobi Dessert for its
international significance.
345
00:21:53,450 --> 00:21:54,836
With fuel running low,
346
00:21:54,836 --> 00:21:57,650
we have to divert to a small heliport
347
00:21:57,650 --> 00:22:00,160
close to our next location.
348
00:22:00,160 --> 00:22:02,540
It's the only place for us to re-fuel
349
00:22:02,540 --> 00:22:04,307
in the part of the country.
350
00:22:04,307 --> 00:22:07,724
(helicopter blades rush)
351
00:22:11,030 --> 00:22:13,126
But soon enough we're back to our journey
352
00:22:13,126 --> 00:22:15,350
and its Westward Ho!
353
00:22:15,350 --> 00:22:17,050
Not just a turn of phrase,
354
00:22:17,050 --> 00:22:20,244
it's the actual name of
this small seaside village
355
00:22:20,244 --> 00:22:23,193
on the south end of northern Burrows.
356
00:22:24,554 --> 00:22:26,287
Aside from its odd name,
357
00:22:26,287 --> 00:22:30,090
this place is primarily known
for its pristine beaches
358
00:22:30,090 --> 00:22:32,934
which are backed for more
than three kilometers
359
00:22:32,934 --> 00:22:36,510
by the remarkable Pebble Bridge.
360
00:22:36,510 --> 00:22:39,120
Composed of fine grain sandstone,
361
00:22:39,120 --> 00:22:41,200
the pebbles were made of boulders
362
00:22:41,200 --> 00:22:42,752
that slipped into the ocean
363
00:22:42,752 --> 00:22:46,210
were rounded into
cobbles by crashing waves
364
00:22:46,210 --> 00:22:49,843
and deposited between Westward
Ho! and the tour estuary.
365
00:22:50,880 --> 00:22:53,220
The town takes its unusual name
366
00:22:53,220 --> 00:22:55,330
from the title of Charles Kingsley's
367
00:22:55,330 --> 00:22:59,593
1855 novel which was
set in a nearby village.
368
00:23:01,000 --> 00:23:04,010
The book was hugely popular at the time
369
00:23:04,010 --> 00:23:06,960
and the name was chosen
by crafty hoteliers
370
00:23:06,960 --> 00:23:09,750
to increase tourism in the area.
371
00:23:09,750 --> 00:23:11,890
The idea eventually worked.
372
00:23:11,890 --> 00:23:14,580
Prior to the publication
of Kingsley's novel,
373
00:23:14,580 --> 00:23:17,600
the land was home to little
more than a single farm
374
00:23:17,600 --> 00:23:19,570
and a few scattered cottages.
375
00:23:19,570 --> 00:23:23,020
But was slowly developed into
the holiday destination town
376
00:23:23,020 --> 00:23:24,373
it remains today.
377
00:23:25,840 --> 00:23:28,332
Westward Ho! is the only town in England
378
00:23:28,332 --> 00:23:32,723
with an exclamation point as
an official part of its name.
379
00:23:36,770 --> 00:23:38,430
Continuing along the coastline
380
00:23:38,430 --> 00:23:40,470
towards our final destination,
381
00:23:40,470 --> 00:23:43,770
we take another look at the
dramatic cliffs and rocks
382
00:23:43,770 --> 00:23:45,728
of the north Devon coast.
383
00:23:45,728 --> 00:23:48,311
(upbeat music)
384
00:23:50,930 --> 00:23:54,591
In 1959, every centimeter
of this shoreline
385
00:23:54,591 --> 00:23:59,040
was designated as an Area of
Outstanding Natural Beauty
386
00:23:59,040 --> 00:24:00,973
to ensure its protection.
387
00:24:04,290 --> 00:24:05,170
Our last stop
388
00:24:05,170 --> 00:24:08,693
is at the uniquely charming
village of Clovelly.
389
00:24:10,100 --> 00:24:12,570
The entirety of this small fishing harbor
390
00:24:12,570 --> 00:24:15,180
is built along a steep, wooded hill side
391
00:24:15,180 --> 00:24:17,660
and contains only a single street,
392
00:24:17,660 --> 00:24:20,553
cobble stoned and
clustered with small shops
393
00:24:20,553 --> 00:24:22,757
and 16th century cottages
394
00:24:22,757 --> 00:24:27,090
as it winds its way down
to the ancient harbor.
395
00:24:27,090 --> 00:24:29,940
Though the road is less
than a kilometer long,
396
00:24:29,940 --> 00:24:33,600
it sharply drops 122 meters along its way,
397
00:24:33,600 --> 00:24:36,260
making it too steep for automobile traffic
398
00:24:36,260 --> 00:24:39,958
so donkeys remain a popular
and quaint transit system
399
00:24:39,958 --> 00:24:41,713
within the small village.
400
00:24:43,150 --> 00:24:46,175
Also unusual is the fact
that the entire village
401
00:24:46,175 --> 00:24:50,230
is privately owned as it
has been since the middle
402
00:24:50,230 --> 00:24:51,733
of the 13th century.
403
00:24:52,850 --> 00:24:55,550
In the nearly 800 years
that have followed,
404
00:24:55,550 --> 00:24:59,303
only three families have
held the deed to this place.
405
00:25:03,300 --> 00:25:06,380
Sheltered from the outside
world by thick woodland
406
00:25:06,380 --> 00:25:08,330
and the Bristol channel at the port,
407
00:25:08,330 --> 00:25:11,891
and with a population of only 443 people,
408
00:25:11,891 --> 00:25:14,817
Clovelly has remained remarkably unchanged
409
00:25:14,817 --> 00:25:16,763
for several centuries.
410
00:25:17,800 --> 00:25:21,390
It's a beautiful reminder
that even in the modern world,
411
00:25:21,390 --> 00:25:26,390
a quiet, picturesque place
like this can still exist.
412
00:25:26,470 --> 00:25:29,853
And it's a perfect place
to end our journey.
413
00:25:35,027 --> 00:25:37,694
(upbeat music)
32730
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