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(wind whistling)
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(reverent orchestral music)
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- Our journey begins
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in the capital of Maine, Augusta.
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Once a thriving seaport, it's
now the seat of government
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for this rugged, scenic state.
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Dropping south, it's on
to the Mid-Coast Region
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of the Gulf of Maine
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and the dramatic cliffs at Pemaquid Point.
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It takes us to Monhegan
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for a bird's eye view of island life.
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We travel north to the
old seaport of Rockland
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before moving on to explore the islands
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and coastal towns of Penobscot Bay.
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Next, we travel to the
Downeast region of Maine
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and explore the seaport of Bass Harbor
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on Mount Desert Island.
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From there, it's on to the deep lakes
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of Acadia National Park.
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And we end our journey
on Cadillac Mountain,
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with its splendid views
of Frenchman's Bay.
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(soft upbeat music)
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Here, in a picturesque
valley in Central Maine,
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we find the capital city of Augusta,
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straddled on both sides
of the Kennebec River.
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For much of America's early history,
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Maine was part of the
Commonwealth of Massachusetts.
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But frontier settlers
pressed for separation,
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and in 1820 it became the
23rd state of the union.
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This is the Augusta
Statehouse, built in 1832,
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and designed by America's
first professional architect,
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Charles Bulfinch, who found fame
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by designing a series
of government buildings,
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like the United States
Capitol in Washington.
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Augusta's statehouse was constructed
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with prized local granite
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and is know for its 45-meter
copper-covered dome.
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But the city's history began much earlier.
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European sailors may have
been coming to this coast
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since the time of the vikings.
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And in 1628, pilgrims from
Plymouth, Massachusetts,
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founded a lucrative fur trading post
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near the mouth of the river.
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In the shadow of the statehouse,
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the Kennebec River is a fitting symbol
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to the rustic spirit of the
people who settled here.
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Augusta's greatest asset was its waterway
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and the city thrived as a
seaport well into the 1800s
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with fleets of schooners sailing weekly
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between its docks and Boston.
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As a testament to the
city's maritime heyday,
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14 structures on the riverfront are listed
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on the National Register
of Historic Places,
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including the Old Federal Building,
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which once served as a post office.
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In colonial America, it was the waterways
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that served as the great
purveyors of the country's growth.
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In the days before powered vessels,
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exports like lumber, fur, and fish
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were sent downriver in sailboats
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that were built right
here along the waterside.
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We head to south to follow the Kennebec,
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a river steeped in history.
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Native American tribes lived
along its banks for millennia
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and it provided the
route for colonial troops
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marching to Quebec to fight the British
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during the 18th century
American Revolutionary War.
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(soft acoustic guitar music)
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We move south along the railroad tracks
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towards the town of Wiscasset,
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nestled along the Sheepscot River.
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00:05:02,310 --> 00:05:04,540
When the steam locomotive
came to New England
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00:05:04,540 --> 00:05:07,780
in the 19th century, it
brought profound social
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and economic change to towns like this.
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A web of railroads knit the
New England states together,
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and Wiscasset hoped to
revive its dying seaport
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by building a railway.
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It had once been a proud shipping harbor,
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so prosperous that locals say
ship masts filled the water
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for as far as the eye could see.
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But the embargo of 1807
deprived shipbuilders
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and sea captains of their livelihoods
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and many New England ports faced decline.
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Rail service in Wiscasset began in 1871,
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with a plan to extend its tracks to Quebec
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to take advantage of the grain trade.
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But the railroad's prominence
would soon be superseded
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by highway competition
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and the effects of the Great Depression.
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00:06:01,490 --> 00:06:04,990
Today, visitors ride in
restored vintage rail cars
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on the Eastern Maine Narrow Gauge Railway
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00:06:07,980 --> 00:06:12,520
to take in the bucolic
scenery of the Mid-Coast.
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As for Wiscasset, it
remains relatively unchanged
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since the 19th century,
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still clinging to Yankee
values and traditions
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long held by residents of
Maine's coastal habitations.
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We leave the river towns and head south
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towards the jagged coast of Maine,
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where rockbound peninsulas
and forested islands
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are like jewels strewn across the sea.
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Here, the past is locked in rock.
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The spectacular Maine landscape
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was formed by the Wisconsin
Glacier from the last Ice Age.
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As the glacier retreated, it
cut hundreds of bays, inlets,
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and picturesque harbors into the shoreline
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and left more than 4,000
islands in its wake.
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But perhaps nothing is more symbolic
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of the rugged Maine shores
than its 68 lighthouses.
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These tall sentinels help
tame rocky coastlines
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and they continue to highlight
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the importance of seafaring
in the region's history.
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Like all good beacons of light,
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the Pemaquid Point Lighthouse
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is awash in stories of
shipwrecks and storms
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interwoven with the
lives of its 11 keepers.
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(soft piano music)
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We head east into a sea of ripple slate
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to find Monhegan Island,
17 kilometers out to sea.
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Little more than one square kilometer,
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the island is a place of natural extremes,
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with formidable 48-meter headlands
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sloping down to a clustered
fishing village and quiet coves.
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(seagulls squawking)
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It's a salty island
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00:08:00,920 --> 00:08:04,500
that conjures up images of
old fishermen in waders,
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of coastal storms and shipwrecks.
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Here in Lobster Cove,
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the remains of the wreck
of the DT Sheridan,
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an old tugboat, have lain here for decades
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since they washed ashore in 1948.
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Like many inhabited islands in Maine,
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generations of lobstermen
have braved long winters
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to call Monhegan home.
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And it remained isolated
until the 19th century,
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when it was discovered
by artists and writers
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and then people of wealth
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who built stately
cottages along its shores.
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Beyond its natural beauty,
Monhegan offers few amenities
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to its 60 year-round residents.
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In the 1980s, electricity
replaced kerosene
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and a regular phone service
became a way of life.
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There is a one-room schoolhouse, a church,
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a lighthouse, and several stores in town.
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And a ferry service is
limited to three times a week
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in the winter months, weather permitting.
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(soft acoustic guitar music)
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We leave the solitude of the island
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to explore the surrounding
waters of Muscongus Bay,
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where nature bestows Maine fishermen
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with an abundance of lobster.
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Fishing for crustaceans
has been intricately woven
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into the fabric of life
here for centuries,
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supporting hundreds of
small coastal communities
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up and down the coast.
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Lobsters are harvested year-round,
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although the majority are caught
between June and December,
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when they are most active.
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(soft piano music)
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We continue our tour of the Muscongus Bay
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and head north to the Cushing Peninsula.
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Here, looking like an abandoned ship
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left on top of a hill, is the Olson House.
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This Greek Revival-style home
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was a subject of numerous
works of art by Andrew Wyeth,
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perhaps one of the best-known
painters of the 20th century
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and a resident of Cushing.
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For nearly three decades
and beginning in 1939,
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Wyeth created a series of works
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that captured his neighbors,
Alvaro and Christina Olson,
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and their isolated farmhouse.
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The people of Maine were
central elements in Wyeth's art,
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and he transformed everyday sights
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into enduring images of New England life.
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Today, the house is a popular museum
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and is registered as a
National Historic Landmark.
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Our journey continues north
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towards the rocky coast of Penobscot Bay,
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considered to be the heart
of picture-book Maine.
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Rockland was once an
important shipbuilding center
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and a waypoint for goods
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making their way up and down the coast.
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These days, lobster boats share the harbor
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with some of the tall-masted schooners
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of Maine's windjammer fleet,
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which represents the largest flotilla
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of coastal schooners in the world.
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Many date back to the 19th century
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and offer day-trips and week-long journeys
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around the islands,
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where passengers get a taste
of life in the age of sail.
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Historic boats need good harbors.
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And good harbors need protection.
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New England is prone to
powerful nor'easters,
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cyclonic storms with
counterclockwise winds
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that have made their mark in
the annals of Maine weather.
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Several severe nor'easters
in the 19th century
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caused considerable damage
to the waterfront here.
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The Rockland Breakwater was built in 1880
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and helped make the port
a refuge for vessels
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00:12:18,430 --> 00:12:22,033
by reducing the intensity of
wave action during storms.
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A series of light beacons
were placed at its outer end
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before the lighthouse was built
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and put into service in 1902.
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More than a kilometer long,
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the breakwater makes for a
pleasant afternoon stroll
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along the pounding surf.
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00:12:45,980 --> 00:12:49,750
For many vacationers, the ferry
ride to their holiday spot
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is a rite of passage each summer.
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While the economy of Maine
still relies on seafood,
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tourism is now its most
lucrative industry.
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Once called rusticators, the
earliest visitors began seeking
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00:13:07,980 --> 00:13:10,670
the rural simplicity of Yankee New England
213
00:13:10,670 --> 00:13:13,940
during the Industrial
Revolution in the 19th century,
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looking to escape the smog and noise
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00:13:16,750 --> 00:13:18,993
of bustling Northeastern cities.
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We continue north along Penobscot Bay
217
00:13:24,620 --> 00:13:26,650
to the city of Rockport,
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often referred to as one of
the prettiest towns in America.
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Lime production was once
a major industry here
220
00:13:35,470 --> 00:13:40,470
and, in 1817, 300 casks
were shipped to Washington
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for use in rebuilding the Capitol,
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00:13:43,240 --> 00:13:46,373
damaged by the British in the War of 1812.
223
00:13:48,770 --> 00:13:50,820
But one of the town's biggest moments
224
00:13:50,820 --> 00:13:53,720
was when Andre, the harbor seal,
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00:13:53,720 --> 00:13:58,240
swam 321 kilometers to
Rockport each spring
226
00:13:58,240 --> 00:14:01,470
from his winter home
in Southern New England
227
00:14:01,470 --> 00:14:05,263
and entertained tourists
and locals with his antics.
228
00:14:06,610 --> 00:14:10,820
He was named Rockport's
honorary harbormaster in 1979
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00:14:10,820 --> 00:14:14,040
and may have been second
only to painter Andrew Wyeth
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00:14:14,040 --> 00:14:17,290
as the state's most acclaimed resident.
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00:14:17,290 --> 00:14:21,240
Andre was the subject of
several books and a movie.
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00:14:21,240 --> 00:14:24,000
And today, a marble statue of the seal
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00:14:24,000 --> 00:14:26,203
rests in a park by the harbor.
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00:14:29,000 --> 00:14:30,270
We continue north,
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00:14:30,270 --> 00:14:33,460
past the red maples
along Rockport's coast,
236
00:14:33,460 --> 00:14:36,780
a similar scene to those that
have inspired great works
237
00:14:36,780 --> 00:14:40,270
by American writers like
Henry David Thoreau.
238
00:14:40,270 --> 00:14:41,890
(soft acoustic guitar music)
239
00:14:41,890 --> 00:14:45,877
He wrote a series of essays
entitled "The Maine Woods".
240
00:14:47,630 --> 00:14:51,750
Near Camden Harbor stands
the Curtis Island Lighthouse,
241
00:14:51,750 --> 00:14:56,750
rebuilt in 1896 and standing
52 meters above the water.
242
00:14:58,230 --> 00:15:01,950
It's been said that lighthouses
are to North America
243
00:15:01,950 --> 00:15:03,803
what castles are to Europe.
244
00:15:04,640 --> 00:15:05,900
In today's world,
245
00:15:05,900 --> 00:15:09,090
technology has rendered
them mostly obsolete,
246
00:15:09,090 --> 00:15:11,890
yet they are stars on the tourist routes,
247
00:15:11,890 --> 00:15:14,503
attracting visitors from around the world.
248
00:15:17,220 --> 00:15:19,190
Our tour along the Penobscot Bay
249
00:15:19,190 --> 00:15:22,190
continues with the seaside port of Camden,
250
00:15:22,190 --> 00:15:24,973
home to a dedicate community of sailors.
251
00:15:28,180 --> 00:15:31,603
It's a tradition that dates
back to the harbor's founding.
252
00:15:32,440 --> 00:15:35,180
As with most New England coastal towns,
253
00:15:35,180 --> 00:15:37,780
agriculture here was somewhat limited
254
00:15:37,780 --> 00:15:41,030
by poor soil and a short growing season,
255
00:15:41,030 --> 00:15:44,063
so settlers turned to
the sea for prosperity,
256
00:15:45,260 --> 00:15:49,240
prosperity that was interrupted
during the Revolutionary War
257
00:15:49,240 --> 00:15:51,520
when Camden and Penobscot Bay
258
00:15:51,520 --> 00:15:53,273
were controlled by the British.
259
00:15:57,110 --> 00:15:59,470
Although the town's loyalty was divided,
260
00:15:59,470 --> 00:16:03,230
it was seen as a center
of revolutionary fervor.
261
00:16:03,230 --> 00:16:07,300
And in 1779, British
troops burned the buildings
262
00:16:07,300 --> 00:16:08,143
in the harbor.
263
00:16:11,130 --> 00:16:12,940
But shipbuilding flourished
264
00:16:12,940 --> 00:16:15,010
through the middle of the 20th century
265
00:16:15,010 --> 00:16:18,483
and today remains an important
part of community life.
266
00:16:20,300 --> 00:16:23,580
Boat-builders here and in nearby Rockport
267
00:16:23,580 --> 00:16:26,540
are renowned for their craftsmanship.
268
00:16:26,540 --> 00:16:31,040
The turn of the 1900s ushered
in a new era of sailing,
269
00:16:31,040 --> 00:16:34,210
as Camden's natural
beauty began to attract
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some of the wealthiest
families in the country.
271
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Magnificent yachts fill the harbor,
272
00:16:39,710 --> 00:16:42,750
inspiring a Philadelphia publishing tycoon
273
00:16:42,750 --> 00:16:44,820
and summer resident to establish
274
00:16:44,820 --> 00:16:47,070
the Camden Harbor Yacht Club,
275
00:16:47,070 --> 00:16:50,093
still thriving more than 100 years later.
276
00:16:53,470 --> 00:16:56,610
The mountainous setting
that surrounds the town
277
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includes Camden Hills State Park,
278
00:16:59,560 --> 00:17:03,260
home to nearly 2,500 hectares of trees
279
00:17:03,260 --> 00:17:05,423
and hiking trails on Mount Battie.
280
00:17:06,360 --> 00:17:09,200
A two-hour hike to the
summit is worth the effort,
281
00:17:09,200 --> 00:17:11,190
especially in autumn.
282
00:17:11,190 --> 00:17:13,400
Hikers are treated to panoramic views
283
00:17:13,400 --> 00:17:17,030
of the wooded hillsides
and the surrounding bay.
284
00:17:17,030 --> 00:17:20,350
This stone tower was built in 1921
285
00:17:20,350 --> 00:17:23,540
and is dedicated to
veterans of World War I.
286
00:17:25,070 --> 00:17:27,200
New England is renowned
287
00:17:27,200 --> 00:17:29,820
for its trove of unspoiled wilderness
288
00:17:29,820 --> 00:17:33,210
and its brilliant autumn foliage.
289
00:17:33,210 --> 00:17:36,870
Each year, leaf-peepers
travel scenic routes
290
00:17:36,870 --> 00:17:38,880
and stop at points of interest
291
00:17:38,880 --> 00:17:41,263
among the magnificent backdrop of color.
292
00:17:43,380 --> 00:17:47,750
Known as the Pine Tree State,
90% of Maine is forested,
293
00:17:47,750 --> 00:17:50,720
more than any other state in the country.
294
00:17:50,720 --> 00:17:53,490
And its economy has always been linked
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00:17:53,490 --> 00:17:56,060
to vast timber reserves.
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00:17:56,060 --> 00:17:58,530
The abundance of trees propelled Maine
297
00:17:58,530 --> 00:18:01,860
to become the nation's first
capital of ship-building.
298
00:18:01,860 --> 00:18:05,090
Today, paper, pulp, and wood products
299
00:18:05,090 --> 00:18:07,803
are the state's second-largest exports.
300
00:18:09,500 --> 00:18:12,420
The forests have been harvested for timber
301
00:18:12,420 --> 00:18:14,380
for well over two centuries,
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00:18:14,380 --> 00:18:17,490
but much of the land
has grown back to woods
303
00:18:17,490 --> 00:18:21,053
since the decline of
agriculture in the 1800s.
304
00:18:24,810 --> 00:18:28,490
We leave the tranquility
of the park and move east,
305
00:18:28,490 --> 00:18:31,163
back to the waters of Penobscot Bay.
306
00:18:32,180 --> 00:18:34,860
It's home to more than 200 islands,
307
00:18:34,860 --> 00:18:38,618
many of which remain
untouched by the modern world.
308
00:18:38,618 --> 00:18:41,951
(soft orchestral music)
309
00:18:49,900 --> 00:18:53,490
Between the islands, there are
vast stretches of open water
310
00:18:53,490 --> 00:18:57,673
and small winding thoroughfares,
a lovely spot to sail.
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00:19:06,550 --> 00:19:09,110
Moving north, we find Islesboro,
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00:19:09,110 --> 00:19:13,290
a long, narrow island that
stretches for 22 kilometers
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00:19:13,290 --> 00:19:15,733
near the top of Penobscot Bay.
314
00:19:18,800 --> 00:19:20,870
With its many harbors and coves,
315
00:19:20,870 --> 00:19:23,980
it once supported a large
commercial shipping fleet,
316
00:19:23,980 --> 00:19:26,403
but is now a popular resort community.
317
00:19:31,360 --> 00:19:34,080
Island living is becoming obsolete.
318
00:19:34,080 --> 00:19:39,080
Only 41 of Maine's islands
support year-round communities,
319
00:19:39,380 --> 00:19:42,333
compared to 300 in the 19th century.
320
00:19:44,630 --> 00:19:46,890
For those who dream of the good life,
321
00:19:46,890 --> 00:19:51,273
a handful of isles among the
Maine coast are up for sale.
322
00:19:52,380 --> 00:19:55,830
Perhaps the only thing that
rivals the sea for beauty
323
00:19:55,830 --> 00:19:57,830
are the evening sunsets
324
00:19:57,830 --> 00:20:01,023
and the back-lit islands in Penobscot Bay.
325
00:20:05,650 --> 00:20:07,580
We continue east on our journey
326
00:20:07,580 --> 00:20:11,250
to the isles of Jericho
Bay, considered by many
327
00:20:11,250 --> 00:20:14,783
to be the most beautiful
sailing waters on Maine's coast.
328
00:20:17,690 --> 00:20:20,670
It's an unspoiled and idyllic archipelago
329
00:20:20,670 --> 00:20:23,380
with abandoned and windswept islands,
330
00:20:23,380 --> 00:20:25,940
some covered in rose hips and raspberries
331
00:20:25,940 --> 00:20:28,610
and boasting sea and songbirds.
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00:20:28,610 --> 00:20:31,753
Several have been set
aside for conservation.
333
00:20:33,600 --> 00:20:36,510
There's no doubt that
Maine is a watery world
334
00:20:36,510 --> 00:20:40,770
with its 61,000 kilometers
of rivers and streams
335
00:20:40,770 --> 00:20:44,550
and more than 2,500 lakes and ponds.
336
00:20:44,550 --> 00:20:47,020
If all the bays and
peninsulas in the state
337
00:20:47,020 --> 00:20:50,660
were unfolded and straightened,
the Maine coastline
338
00:20:50,660 --> 00:20:55,000
would stretch for nearly 7,400 kilometers,
339
00:20:55,000 --> 00:20:58,403
longer than the entire
East Coast of America.
340
00:21:00,040 --> 00:21:03,130
As we travel east, we reach Bass Harbor,
341
00:21:03,130 --> 00:21:07,000
which lies on the south
side of Mount Desert Island,
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00:21:07,000 --> 00:21:11,550
home to the largest portion
of Acadia National Park.
343
00:21:11,550 --> 00:21:13,750
It's a quintessential fishing village
344
00:21:13,750 --> 00:21:16,310
and has changed very
little through the years,
345
00:21:16,310 --> 00:21:18,790
tucked away from the throngs of tourists
346
00:21:18,790 --> 00:21:22,011
that descend on the park further inland.
347
00:21:22,011 --> 00:21:25,490
(light piano music)
348
00:21:25,490 --> 00:21:28,240
It was French explorer Samuel de Champlain
349
00:21:28,240 --> 00:21:33,240
who named the landmass Isle
des Monts-deserts in 1602,
350
00:21:33,560 --> 00:21:36,690
but settlement was stalled
while the French and English
351
00:21:36,690 --> 00:21:39,023
wrestled for control of the territory.
352
00:21:40,150 --> 00:21:42,580
Artists discovered the scenic beauty here
353
00:21:42,580 --> 00:21:44,450
in the mid-19th century.
354
00:21:44,450 --> 00:21:47,640
And by 1882, the island had become
355
00:21:47,640 --> 00:21:50,080
a summer mecca for the affluent,
356
00:21:50,080 --> 00:21:54,493
boasting names like Rockefeller,
Astor, and Vanderbilt.
357
00:22:00,877 --> 00:22:02,600
(soft upbeat music)
358
00:22:02,600 --> 00:22:04,970
Awed by its beauty and diversity,
359
00:22:04,970 --> 00:22:08,180
a handful of wealthy
20th-century visionaries
360
00:22:08,180 --> 00:22:13,150
donated the land that became
Acadia, one of the smallest
361
00:22:13,150 --> 00:22:16,453
but most visited of
America's national parks.
362
00:22:19,200 --> 00:22:22,750
Their vision stands
today as a unique blend
363
00:22:22,750 --> 00:22:25,610
of freshwater lakes, mountains, valleys,
364
00:22:25,610 --> 00:22:30,023
and majestic coastlines in
its 120 square kilometers.
365
00:22:31,820 --> 00:22:35,630
With diverse habitats from
shoreline to mountaintops,
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00:22:35,630 --> 00:22:38,800
the park contains a wide
range of animal life,
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00:22:38,800 --> 00:22:42,913
including hawks and bald
eagles, bears and bobcats.
368
00:22:46,150 --> 00:22:49,410
Scenic spots offer views of granite cliffs
369
00:22:49,410 --> 00:22:50,960
anchored to the sea
370
00:22:50,960 --> 00:22:54,130
and there are 72 kilometers
of carriage roads
371
00:22:54,130 --> 00:22:56,970
built to accommodate horse-drawn vehicles
372
00:22:56,970 --> 00:23:00,103
and only open to non-motorized traffic.
373
00:23:03,850 --> 00:23:08,260
Jordan Pond and Eagle Lake
are separated by two mountains
374
00:23:08,260 --> 00:23:12,900
known as the Bubbles, but the
scenic beauty owes its thanks
375
00:23:12,900 --> 00:23:15,223
to a wide variety of trees.
376
00:23:16,920 --> 00:23:19,980
One of the most plentiful is the maple,
377
00:23:19,980 --> 00:23:22,830
which accounts for more
than its share of colors
378
00:23:22,830 --> 00:23:23,887
in the autumn.
379
00:23:33,640 --> 00:23:37,260
Our journey continues up
the long and winding road
380
00:23:37,260 --> 00:23:40,370
to the majestic summit
of Cadillac Mountain,
381
00:23:40,370 --> 00:23:42,820
our final destination.
382
00:23:42,820 --> 00:23:46,820
The six-kilometer Park Loop
Road that leads to the peak
383
00:23:46,820 --> 00:23:51,130
opened in 1931, replacing a cog railway
384
00:23:51,130 --> 00:23:54,653
that brought tourists to
the top in the late-1800s.
385
00:23:59,150 --> 00:24:03,290
At 466 meters, the summit
is the highest point
386
00:24:03,290 --> 00:24:05,590
along the North Atlantic Seaboard
387
00:24:05,590 --> 00:24:09,773
and is one of more than 20
mountains on Mount Desert Island.
388
00:24:11,800 --> 00:24:15,010
During much of the year,
it's also the first place
389
00:24:15,010 --> 00:24:18,870
in the United States touched
by the rays of sunrise.
390
00:24:20,559 --> 00:24:23,970
18,000 years ago, during the last Ice Age,
391
00:24:23,970 --> 00:24:27,170
several enormous glaciers
compressed the land
392
00:24:27,170 --> 00:24:29,680
and sheered off mountaintops,
393
00:24:29,680 --> 00:24:32,070
which inspired Samuel de Champlain
394
00:24:32,070 --> 00:24:37,070
to note the bald look of the
barren peaks in his journal.
395
00:24:37,120 --> 00:24:39,920
Not quite as barren as Champlain observed,
396
00:24:39,920 --> 00:24:43,650
the pink granite, combined
with spruce and pine trees,
397
00:24:43,650 --> 00:24:45,834
produce a stunning landscape.
398
00:24:45,834 --> 00:24:48,950
(upbeat orchestral music)
399
00:24:48,950 --> 00:24:52,680
But the real star is the
panoramic view from the summit,
400
00:24:52,680 --> 00:24:55,697
with breathtaking views
of Frenchman's Bay.
401
00:25:02,160 --> 00:25:04,510
On a clear day, it's possible to see
402
00:25:04,510 --> 00:25:09,510
the Canadian province of Nova
Scotia, 160 kilometers away;
403
00:25:09,730 --> 00:25:14,113
that is, if you can find a
spot in the throng of tourists.
404
00:25:18,700 --> 00:25:21,980
It's a perfect, as well
as a popular place,
405
00:25:21,980 --> 00:25:23,473
to end this journey.
406
00:25:33,568 --> 00:25:37,235
(reverent orchestral music)
32783
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