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(lively music)
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- Our journey
begins at the charming,
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literary seaside town of Laugharne.
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We travel through the rolling hills of
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Southern Carmarthenshire, before
crossing through the heart
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of the wild Brecon Beacons National Park.
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We explore some of the country's
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many historic castles
and religious monuments.
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Followed by the industrial
coal mining heartlands,
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are the South wild valleys.
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At Caerphilly, we find fortresses
both ancient and modern,
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before we plunge into Cardiff,
Wale's thriving capital city.
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The last leg of our journey,
again takes us from old to new,
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the Roman ruins had carried on,
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standing cheek by jowl
with the city of Newport.
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And then on to Tintern
Abbey and Chepstow Castle, a
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stone throw from the Severn
Bridges, our final destination.
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This beautiful, rolling
farmland is outside
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the historic coastal town of Laugharne,
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which nestles on the southern edge of
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the royal county of Carmarthenshire.
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The land here is a rare surviving example
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of an open field system, a
medieval land jaring structure
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that handed the care and use
of the farmland to local people
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Each strip of the larger field,
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as seen here, is divided by ditches.
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This system is still managed today
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by unique town institution,
the Laugharne Corporation,
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founded as far back as
1291 by the local lord,
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Sir Guy de Brian.
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The aim of the organization
was to oversee all local
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legal business, including
criminal cases and civil suits,
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as well of the sharing
of these 76 individual
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strips of land above the town.
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00:03:08,530 --> 00:03:12,435
Laugharne's other living relic
is it's outstanding castle.
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Built originally in the 12th century,
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and redeveloped in Shuda times,
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its current ruins standing posingly
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over the stunning expanse of
the glorious Calf Estuary,
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00:03:24,799 --> 00:03:28,573
where the River Taff
flows into Carmarthen Bay.
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(soft music)
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00:03:31,970 --> 00:03:33,520
At the mouth of the estuary,
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dropping down off the edge of the town,
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is the boathouse home of
Laugharne's most famous son,
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the world renowned poet, Dylan Thomas.
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The rustic charm of the location
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gave inspiration for some
of his most famous works,
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such as "Over Sir John's Hill"
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which describes his view of birds
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stalking their prey over the sea.
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And his masterpiece, "Under Milk Wood"
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the radio play that was much inspired
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by the wonderfully eccentric
community of Laugharne.
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The River Taff is one
of a number estuaries
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00:04:17,440 --> 00:04:19,193
feeding into Carmarthen Bay.
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As we follow the peninsula
hugging Pendine Sands,
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we find a wide, blue, estuary
waters of the River Towy,
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one of Wales' longest
waterways, which flows from the
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Cambrian Mountains of Mid Wales,
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situated 121 kilometers to the North.
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For over 800 years, the Towy
estuary has been guarded
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by the magnificent Llansteffan Castle.
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00:04:53,319 --> 00:04:55,347
A 12th century Norman fortress,
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its ruins still stand watch
over the mouth of the bay.
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Such a prized strategic location however,
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has met a tumultuous history.
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The 12th and 13th centuries
saw regular battles
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for its possession between
the early Norman conquerors
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and the rebellious locals.
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These days, its stunning
battlements and towers
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are listed and protected and
is popular tourist destination.
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We now head north,
following the River Towy
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upstream towards its source.
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Its course tucks and turns through
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typically lush rolling Welsh countryside
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before the river plain
opens out to Carmarthen.
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It lays claimed to be
the oldest town in Wales
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and is now a vibrant mix
of traditional and new.
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Dating back to Roman times,
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Carmarthen still remains
a thriving market town.
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As well as its medieval center,
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it's also home to a major campus
of the University of Wales.
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This dramatic change of
scenery seasons arrive`on
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70 kilometers east, to the mist of the
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Brecon Beacons National Park,
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a wild and rugged landscape
of astonishing natural beauty
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that sits on the border
of South and Mid Wales.
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These grassy and heather-clad
mountains have seen
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human activity for over eight millennia.
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And today, it's in the form of
nature lovers the world over,
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drawing trekking
enthusiasts eager to explore
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its often challenging terrain.
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The Brecon Beacon Range is the
highest in Southern Britain,
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00:07:02,530 --> 00:07:05,633
and at its eastern most edge
are the Black Mountains,
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an ancient collection of hills and
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richly verdant winding
valleys that spread across
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the counties of Powys and Monmouthshire
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close to the English border.
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Deep in the heart of a valley,
the secluded vale of Eus
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sits the ruins of Flantony Prairie,
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built by a order of augustinian
monks in the 12th century.
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The ghostly but commanding
ruins we see today
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show evidence of both Norman
and gothic architecture,
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such as the long arcade of arches.
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Alone in its valley, Flantony
stands as a stark monument
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of a forgotten era.
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Leaving the Vale of Eus, we
journey up the valley top
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to the East, where the Black Mountains
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drop down into border country.
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Here on the very edge of Wales
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is the English county of Herefordshire,
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and the picturesque Olchon Valley.
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It's where we find the
pathwald thickwald keep,
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that is Longtown Castle,
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built around the turn of the 13th century.
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Sitting on a large earthen mound,
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the fort was so designed
for a very simple reason.
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Its task was too serve
as an unbreakable bullwog
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against Welsh raids
from the Black Mountains
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across the English border.
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And today, its still stands
symbolically guarding
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the borders with an awesome presence.
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This stretch of country is scattered
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with similar castles and strongholds
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and heading 20 kilometers
southeast, we find White Castle,
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another typically impressive
example for the Norman era.
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With its moat, bridge,
gatehouse, sprawling battlemans,
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it's a picture perfect example
of medieval military might.
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Originally named after the
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neighboring village of Llantillio,
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it later came to be known as White Castle
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in the 13th century when
its walls were line washed
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from top to bottom, and the
name has stuck ever since.
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Another intriguingly named
feature in the region
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is the looming and iconic
Monmouthshire Mountain
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called the Sugarloaf, so
labeled, unsurprisingly,
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for its physical similarity
to the old method
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of forming and selling refined sugar,
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that of a tall cone with a rounded top.
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There are several other
hills and mountains
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around the world with the same name.
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Our journey now takes
us into the 20th century
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and the emotional heart of Welsh Industry,
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the South Wales Coal Fields.
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Our first stop is here,
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at the Big Pit National
Coal Museum at Blaenavon,
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which symbolizes the
importance in inheritance
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of the now mostly defaunt
Welsh mining industry.
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But in its day it absolutely dominated
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this whole area of South Wales,
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supplying jobs for entire communities
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and fueling the Industrial Revolution
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during the 18th and 19th centuries.
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But with what was seen as
the declining importance
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of coal mining to the UK
government during the 20th century,
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many pits were forced to close.
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This caused widespread employment
and poverty in the region,
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the effects of which are
still felt to this day.
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Big Pit has become an
emotionally resident location
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for generations of Welsh minors.
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As its historic collery buildings
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are still as they were when
the mine was fully operational,
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even though the Pit is now
a highly popular destination
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rather than a fully working site.
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The Welsh coal fields are better known
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within Wales as simply, "The Valleys"
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and are a hub of tight knit
working class communities
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recognizable by their traditional
rows of tourist houses,
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sprawling along the length
of the valley floors.
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(soft piano)
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Journeying south for the
industrial heartlands,
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we arrive at the town of Caerphilly
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and its magnificent
castle, one of the finest
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of those still standing in Wales.
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This 13th century, slumbering
giant of a fortress is
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surrounded by a series of
stunning moats and watery islands
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and was the creation of
Gilbert "The Red" de Clare,
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a red headed nobleman of Norman descent.
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It's an extraordinary testament
to craftsmanship and power.
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The water features alone
are entirely artificial
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and were created solely
for defensive purposes,
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whilst its concentric
battlements and barricades
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are considered some of the finest examples
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of classic medieval
stone masonry in Europe.
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Gilbert "The Red" de
Clare was also responsible
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for the initial construction
of what's considered
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maybe Wale's most eccentric
castle, Castell Coch.
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Sitting on the hillside above
the village of Tongwynlais,
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the remains of de Clare's
originally structure
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were bought by the Marquess
of Bute in the 19th century,
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and redesigned in a neo-medieval style
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by architect, William Burges.
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At the time, the marquess was one
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of the richest men in the world,
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having made his fortune
in South Wales coal.
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00:13:26,370 --> 00:13:30,500
And as we can see here, he
refashioned Castell Coch
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as a dreamlike gothic fairytale castle,
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with its pointed towers soaring out
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from the surrounding forest.
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Today it's considered to
be somewhat of a folly,
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a beautiful but historically
inaccurate mishmash of styles,
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00:13:46,618 --> 00:13:50,264
a testament perhaps more
to the wealth of one man
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and his desire to truly
live like a medieval king.
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From here it's south, towards the sea
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and the vibrant city of
Cardiff, the capital of Wales.
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For many years, its industrial heart
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was to be found here at Cardiff Bay.
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Once a thriving port,
primarily exporting Welsh coal
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to the rest of the world,
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the Bay is now the symbolic
center of national regeneration.
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00:14:22,150 --> 00:14:24,485
Classic buildings such as the Pierhead
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mixed with a panoply of
modern designs and structures.
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00:14:28,688 --> 00:14:31,540
(bright music)
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The Bay's most prominent landmark
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is the award-winning
Wales Millennium Center
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where the defining inscription
by poet Gwyneth Lewis,
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our motto for the spirit of
Cardiff Bay in its entirety:
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00:14:45,867 --> 00:14:48,967
"In these stones, horizons sing."
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00:14:50,211 --> 00:14:53,060
And looking to the horizon, we can see
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00:14:53,060 --> 00:14:56,396
the newly constructed
barrage created in the 1990s
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to give the Bay its
permanent high water line,
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00:14:59,833 --> 00:15:02,782
as if the tide is always in.
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00:15:02,782 --> 00:15:05,365
(lively music)
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Cardiff itself is in every
sense a capital city,
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00:15:10,810 --> 00:15:14,328
being the chief commercial,
cultural, and sporting center
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as well as the seat of
the Welsh government.
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00:15:19,570 --> 00:15:21,784
And taking it's pride
of place in the center
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is Cardiff Castle one of Wale's
leading heritage attractions
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and a historic site of
internationally importance.
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00:15:31,580 --> 00:15:34,032
To step through these
battlements into its grounds
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is to embrace over 2000
years of living history.
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The outer walls from Norman
times are built on Roman ones.
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00:15:46,240 --> 00:15:49,240
But the castle is known
today for its 19th century
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00:15:49,240 --> 00:15:53,180
towers and battlements designed
once again by William Burges
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00:15:54,610 --> 00:15:57,880
His work here is justly celebrated.
236
00:15:57,880 --> 00:16:01,006
The main castle is a
Welsh Victorian Camelot,
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00:16:01,006 --> 00:16:05,130
of opulent interiors and fairytale towers
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00:16:05,130 --> 00:16:07,829
that attract visitors
from around the globe.
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00:16:07,829 --> 00:16:10,580
(classy music)
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And adjoining the castle
grounds is Cafe's Park,
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00:16:13,909 --> 00:16:16,222
home of the city's municipal buildings
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00:16:16,222 --> 00:16:18,552
and considered to be one of the finest
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00:16:18,552 --> 00:16:21,330
of such a states in Britain.
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00:16:21,330 --> 00:16:24,488
It's where we find the
monumental edwardian designed
245
00:16:24,488 --> 00:16:29,340
of the Cardiff City Hall, built in 1906.
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00:16:29,340 --> 00:16:33,903
And next door is the atrium
topped National Museum of Wales.
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For the Welsh themselves though,
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Cardiff's most precious
monument is perhaps this,
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00:16:40,960 --> 00:16:45,063
the home of the national rugby
team, the Millennium Stadium.
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00:16:46,070 --> 00:16:48,245
If rugby was a religion in Wales,
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00:16:48,245 --> 00:16:51,290
this would be its cathedral.
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00:16:51,290 --> 00:16:55,964
On match days, up to 75000
chanting and singing supporters
253
00:16:55,964 --> 00:16:59,373
raise the roof to cheer on Team Wales.
254
00:17:03,020 --> 00:17:07,294
South of Cardiff, in the
Bristol Channel are two islands,
255
00:17:07,294 --> 00:17:09,930
Flat Holm and Steep Holm.
256
00:17:09,930 --> 00:17:12,236
Both now uninhabited nature reserves,
257
00:17:12,236 --> 00:17:14,341
but which were previously fortified
258
00:17:14,341 --> 00:17:17,333
as a defense against possible invasion.
259
00:17:18,980 --> 00:17:22,263
Following the coast
eastward, we head to Newport.
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00:17:24,010 --> 00:17:26,720
Previously a thriving industrial hub,
261
00:17:26,720 --> 00:17:30,220
the city is now a shadow
of its past preeminence,
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00:17:30,220 --> 00:17:31,850
following the collapse of the coal
263
00:17:31,850 --> 00:17:34,133
and steel industries in South Wales.
264
00:17:35,460 --> 00:17:38,378
In recent years however,
the city's been undergoing
265
00:17:38,378 --> 00:17:40,923
a major regeneration effort.
266
00:17:42,506 --> 00:17:47,506
Newport's industrial past has
left some fascinating legacies
267
00:17:47,800 --> 00:17:51,530
like the Transporter Bridge, built in 1906
268
00:17:51,530 --> 00:17:54,823
and now one of only two
substructures in the country.
269
00:17:55,680 --> 00:17:58,470
Transporters are unique in that they carry
270
00:17:58,470 --> 00:18:00,610
goods and people across the water
271
00:18:00,610 --> 00:18:02,356
by means of a hanging gaundler,
272
00:18:02,356 --> 00:18:06,553
like the one we can see here
docked by the waterside.
273
00:18:08,940 --> 00:18:12,200
Though Newport is very
much a city in transition,
274
00:18:12,200 --> 00:18:16,460
it still remains a vital link
between wales and England.
275
00:18:16,460 --> 00:18:20,170
It's a permanent stop on the
main west coast rail network
276
00:18:20,170 --> 00:18:21,993
that connects Cardiff to London.
277
00:18:24,594 --> 00:18:27,990
And, the major M4 motorway that joins
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00:18:27,990 --> 00:18:30,140
Carmarthenshire and the West of Wales
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00:18:30,140 --> 00:18:31,783
with the Southeast of England.
280
00:18:34,520 --> 00:18:36,700
But the history of this region goes back
281
00:18:36,700 --> 00:18:39,653
much further than the
Industrial Revolution.
282
00:18:42,070 --> 00:18:46,073
These are the remains of an
ancient Roman arena, at Carrion.
283
00:18:48,320 --> 00:18:50,640
Now sitting on the outskirts of Newport,
284
00:18:50,640 --> 00:18:52,390
these remains were once part of a
285
00:18:52,390 --> 00:18:55,553
much larger Roman military
Garrison Barracks.
286
00:18:57,020 --> 00:18:58,870
The site is considered to be the
287
00:18:58,870 --> 00:19:01,353
finest example in all of Europe.
288
00:19:05,350 --> 00:19:08,030
In its heyday, this arena
could have sat up to
289
00:19:08,030 --> 00:19:11,910
6000 baying and cheering Roman troops.
290
00:19:11,910 --> 00:19:13,547
And many of its original features,
291
00:19:13,547 --> 00:19:17,908
such as its sunken amphitheater
entrances and slope terraces
292
00:19:17,908 --> 00:19:19,593
are still intact.
293
00:19:29,040 --> 00:19:32,490
Today the arena is the pride
of the village of Carrion
294
00:19:32,490 --> 00:19:35,990
and attracts many tourists
from across the globe to Wales,
295
00:19:35,990 --> 00:19:38,340
often to see the amphitheater used
296
00:19:38,340 --> 00:19:42,073
for open air performances,
and historical recreations.
297
00:19:46,185 --> 00:19:49,400
Traveling some 20 kilometers north
298
00:19:49,400 --> 00:19:50,843
to the county of Monmouthshire,
299
00:19:50,843 --> 00:19:54,963
we come to another of
Wales' board of fortresses.
300
00:19:57,710 --> 00:20:01,225
Raglan Castle was built in the 1430s,
301
00:20:01,225 --> 00:20:03,420
a more recent edition compared to some
302
00:20:03,420 --> 00:20:06,823
of the more older Norman castles
we've seen on this journey.
303
00:20:10,050 --> 00:20:11,847
It was created as a lavish home
304
00:20:11,847 --> 00:20:16,453
of a local nobleman and wine
trader, William Herbert.
305
00:20:20,490 --> 00:20:24,195
Architecturally, it's noteworthy
for its turrets and massive
306
00:20:24,195 --> 00:20:28,383
mullion windows, which would've
bathed its rooms in light.
307
00:20:30,330 --> 00:20:33,900
Beyond its opulent design,
it was a stronghold too.
308
00:20:33,900 --> 00:20:37,030
Famously withstanding a 13 week siege
309
00:20:37,030 --> 00:20:40,073
during the English Civil
War of the 17th century.
310
00:20:43,050 --> 00:20:45,949
Eventually, it fell and
the revolution reforces
311
00:20:45,949 --> 00:20:50,410
inflicted much the damage
we still see today.
312
00:20:50,410 --> 00:20:53,800
But despite that, plenty
or grandeur remains,
313
00:20:53,800 --> 00:20:57,865
and visiting Raglan gives every
visitor a visual experience
314
00:20:57,865 --> 00:20:59,625
of what it might have been like
315
00:20:59,625 --> 00:21:02,773
to live with tremendous wealth and power.
316
00:21:07,500 --> 00:21:09,200
Following the border with England
317
00:21:09,200 --> 00:21:11,163
along the peaceful Wye Valley,
318
00:21:11,163 --> 00:21:15,403
we arrive at the haunting
ruins of Tintern Abbey.
319
00:21:15,403 --> 00:21:18,650
(haunting music)
320
00:21:18,650 --> 00:21:20,771
For 400 years, it was the home
321
00:21:20,771 --> 00:21:24,260
of the Cistercian order of monks.
322
00:21:24,260 --> 00:21:28,926
Until 1536 that is, when it
fell victim to a bitter dispute
323
00:21:28,926 --> 00:21:33,483
between King Henry VIII of
England and the Pope in Rome.
324
00:21:36,240 --> 00:21:40,147
In a show of defiance, it was
one of 800 religions buildings
325
00:21:40,147 --> 00:21:43,700
destroyed on the monarch's orders.
326
00:21:43,700 --> 00:21:47,363
It came to be known as the
Dissolution of the Monasteries.
327
00:21:49,270 --> 00:21:51,550
Lead from the roof was stripped off,
328
00:21:51,550 --> 00:21:53,641
stained-glass windows smashed,
329
00:21:53,641 --> 00:21:57,810
fittings ripped out and left to decay.
330
00:21:57,810 --> 00:22:00,130
But despite the shell
of this grand structure
331
00:22:00,130 --> 00:22:02,940
being so open to the skies for so long,
332
00:22:02,940 --> 00:22:07,883
Tintern remains the best
preserved medieval Abbey in Wales.
333
00:22:08,890 --> 00:22:11,100
Today, it's a popular destination
334
00:22:11,100 --> 00:22:14,606
for thousands of visitors
each year who come to witness
335
00:22:14,606 --> 00:22:18,653
its evocative presence
here on the Wye River.
336
00:22:25,580 --> 00:22:27,547
Following the waterways south, takes us
337
00:22:27,547 --> 00:22:30,370
to the last of the major Welsh castles
338
00:22:30,370 --> 00:22:33,113
we'll be visiting on
our journey, Chepstow.
339
00:22:35,400 --> 00:22:38,064
This stunning fortress
is the oldest surviving
340
00:22:38,064 --> 00:22:41,440
post Roman stone fortification in Britain
341
00:22:41,440 --> 00:22:43,737
and the earliest of the Norman keeps.
342
00:22:43,737 --> 00:22:47,490
Built only a year after
the conquest of 1066.
343
00:22:50,630 --> 00:22:53,333
It stands perched between
the Limestone River Cliff
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00:22:53,333 --> 00:22:58,333
and a valley known locally as
the Dell on its landward side.
345
00:23:02,650 --> 00:23:05,683
Today the castle is very
much a lesson in longevity.
346
00:23:06,600 --> 00:23:09,190
Century after century, it grew along
347
00:23:09,190 --> 00:23:11,053
its narrow clifftop ridge.
348
00:23:14,740 --> 00:23:17,320
The oldest section can be seen here,
349
00:23:17,320 --> 00:23:20,350
The Norman Great Tower, and building work
350
00:23:20,350 --> 00:23:23,180
continued well into the 17th century,
351
00:23:23,180 --> 00:23:26,273
as battlements were modified
for guns and cannon.
352
00:23:30,330 --> 00:23:34,526
By the 1700s, the castle
began to fall into disrepair,
353
00:23:34,526 --> 00:23:37,040
and it wasn't until the growth of tourism
354
00:23:37,040 --> 00:23:40,420
in the 19th century, that its
fortunes started to recover
355
00:23:40,420 --> 00:23:43,373
with flourishing numbers of sight seers.
356
00:23:52,370 --> 00:23:55,025
And finally, and perhaps suitably,
357
00:23:55,025 --> 00:23:59,430
we cross over from Wales
to England via the bridges
358
00:23:59,430 --> 00:24:01,580
that join the two neighboring nations
359
00:24:01,580 --> 00:24:04,003
over the magnificent Severn Estuary.
360
00:24:05,872 --> 00:24:09,893
The first of the two, simply
called The Severn Bridge,
361
00:24:09,893 --> 00:24:13,900
was built in 1966 and
was hailed as the dawn
362
00:24:13,900 --> 00:24:17,394
of a new economic era for South Wales.
363
00:24:17,394 --> 00:24:19,894
(happy music)
364
00:24:24,650 --> 00:24:28,843
The far longer second
crossing was opened in 1996
365
00:24:28,843 --> 00:24:31,389
to cope with the enormous
amount of traffic
366
00:24:31,389 --> 00:24:34,273
flowing along the M4 motorway.
367
00:24:34,273 --> 00:24:36,773
(happy music)
368
00:24:39,520 --> 00:24:42,020
These modernist constructions have been a
369
00:24:42,020 --> 00:24:44,790
vital component when
opening up South Wales
370
00:24:44,790 --> 00:24:47,035
to the rest of the United Kingdom,
371
00:24:47,035 --> 00:24:49,670
particularly, the economic center
372
00:24:49,670 --> 00:24:51,790
of the Southeast of England.
373
00:24:51,790 --> 00:24:55,210
And since 1966, the bridges have carried
374
00:24:55,210 --> 00:24:57,963
more than 300 million vehicles.
375
00:25:01,590 --> 00:25:05,450
But for all their economic and
strategic importance to Wales
376
00:25:05,450 --> 00:25:09,260
the Severn Bridges are fixed
in a popular imagination
377
00:25:09,260 --> 00:25:13,343
as particularly spectacular
examples of British engineering.
378
00:25:15,910 --> 00:25:18,880
To drive across them high
above the water on a sunny day
379
00:25:18,880 --> 00:25:20,940
can be quite an experience,
380
00:25:20,940 --> 00:25:23,260
with Wales or England ahead of you,
381
00:25:23,260 --> 00:25:27,153
surrounded by the vast
expanse of the tidal estuary,
382
00:25:28,500 --> 00:25:31,823
a fine place to end this journey.
383
00:25:35,957 --> 00:25:38,540
(upbeat music)
384
00:25:54,276 --> 00:25:57,465
(music fades out)
385
00:25:57,465 --> 00:25:59,798
(whooshing)
31790
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