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(quiet wind blowing)
("The World From Above" theme)
(spirited music)
- We begin our journey in the northeast
of Switzerland, at the impressive Rheinau Abbey.
We briefly hop across to Germany
to see the medieval castle ruins at Kussaberg,
before dropping south to the shimmering lake Zurich
and its famous city on the shore.
We move on to Basel, the cultural heart of Switzerland.
And then southward, we find the administrative capital Bern,
whose medieval Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
At Avenches, we visit a Roman amphitheater
which after 2000 years continues to draw
and entertain crowds.
Crossing lake Neuchatel, we end our journey
in a natural park and the staggering cliffs of Creux du Van.
(bright music)
Right on the Swiss border with Germany
lies a masterpiece of Baroque architecture, Rheinau Abbey.
No doubt the Benedictine monks
would have chosen this site on the river Rhine
as much for its beauty as the protection
it offered from attack.
The first construction on the site
is believed to go back to 778.
Centuries later, it came to be known
for its famous library, with over 12,000 volumes,
including ancient and priceless manuscripts.
The Benedictine abbey was dissolved in the 1860s.
All of its precious books were handed over
to the main library at Zurich.
From a place of spiritual healing,
it was transformed to focus on physical health.
It became a hospital.
And much later, a psychiatric clinic.
But medical staff and patients all moved out in 2000
and the building now stands empty.
Just north, over the border in Germany,
we find a haunting echo of times gone by.
The ruined castle at Kussaberg commands a ghostly watch
over its surroundings.
Hilltop castles became fashionable some 900 years ago
when nobles began using them as grand residences.
(majestic music)
In 1634, during the 30 Years War,
the Swedish army was closing in.
Castle troops decided not to let it fall into enemy hands.
So they burned it down themselves.
After the war, there were no funds for its reconstruction
and the landslide soon after sealed its fate.
In the following years, local farmers plundered its stone,
leaving it as we see today.
Back in Switzerland, dark rainclouds gather
over the little town of Wohlen,
sending many of its 15,000 residents
in search of their umbrellas.
Eastwards under clearer skies, we discover
the spectacular Lake Zurich.
It was an important route for transport
and commerce in the past, but is now a magnet
for pleasure seekers and the super rich,
who settle on its northeastern bank,
where tax is low and property prices high.
Hardly surprising when just further along
is one of the world's banking capitals, Zurich.
Also, Switzerland's largest city,
with a population of 400,000.
But while it's synonymous with high finance,
its fascinating and varied history
is sometimes easily overlooked.
Its first big turning point was in the year 1218
when the Holy Roman Emperor declared it
an Imperial Free City, giving it a kind of sovereignty.
The residents showed their pride and independence
by destroying the Imperial palace.
Later in the 1500s, Zurich was a flash point in a tremendous
confrontation sweeping Europe, the Reformation.
In the 20th century, the city managed to survive
pretty much intact, thanks to Swiss neutrality
in both World Wars.
However, this didn't stop Allied planes
bombing in March 1945.
A court later ruled the aerial assault
was in fact accidental due to equipment failure
and poor weather.
As ever, the city moved on.
And today its proud heritage represents
a lot more than banking.
Visitors can take in some 50 museums
and more than 100 art galleries.
And a pulsating nightlife with no official closing time.
Once a year, the entire city is transformed
as hundreds of thousands of partygoers
converge for the famous street parade.
And its cleanliness and efficiency
means Zurich frequently tops the list for quality of life.
On most visitors' itineraries is a boat tour on the lake.
It's about two hours from one end to the other.
But if breathtaking Alpine views aren't your thing,
there are onboard activities catering for every taste.
Like a fondue boat, serving pots of melted cheese,
or one that lays on music and dance.
There are even murder mystery trips,
adding a little excitement to the tour.
Zurich receives around a million visitors each year.
Many of them are whisked in by rail
to the Hauptbahnhof, or main station.
The grand sandstone building sits on Bahnhofstrasse,
literally translating as Station Street.
It's been named the most expensive road
for retail property in the world.
The sheer size of the station isn't surprising,
given Zurich's central position on the continent.
Travelers pour in to visit the nearby Alps
with many en route to locations further east or west
on high speed services.
With almost 3000 trains each day,
the station is one of the busiest in the world,
part of a system including trams that date from the 1880s
that are still present in the cityscape today.
(downbeat electronic music)
Just outside Zurich is Limmattal Marshalling Yard,
one of the biggest of its kind in Europe.
It's a state of the art, fully automated facility.
With the sheer number of trains in Switzerland,
it's not surprising their depots are immense.
Here, 18 tracks fan out to 64 separate yards
where trains can be assembled, maintained, or loaded.
Today, it seems all necessary work has been done
and the locomotives are all out,
busy transporting passengers, goods and materials,
perhaps a testament to legendary Swiss efficiency.
Preserved as a heritage site is the picturesque
Old Town Center of Rheinfelden.
Speculators discovered rich salt deposits here
in the mid 19th century, which transformed
the sleepy habitation into a world famous spa resort.
Rheinfelden sits across the river
from a German town with the same name.
They were both one and the same
before Napoleon set the border in 1802.
Today people are able to move freely
back and forth in car or by foot
with the 150 meter island of Inseli
bearing witness to their passage.
Germans coming across are usually sure
to try famous Swiss beer.
The Feldschlosschen brewery is the country's biggest.
It's been the nation's best selling brew since 1898,
which is why Carlsberg paid almost half a billion dollars
to acquire it in 2000.
Going eastwards, the border peels away from the river Rhine,
allowing the Swiss city of Basel
to straddle not only Germany, but also France.
This place is often seen as the
cultural capital of Switzerland.
It was here in 1460 that its famous university
attracted great minds from all over Europe.
City residents also lay claim to the oldest
public art collection in the world,
dating back to 1662 when the council and university
bought up a rich family's art trove.
After the Reformation, Basel's silk weaving
and dying industries took off
and formed the basis for the chemical
and pharmaceutical companies that bring business here today.
A population of around 190,000 people
makes it Switzerland's third largest city,
with the larger conurbation holding almost a million
Swiss, German and French residents.
This rather unusual arrangement is run
by the Trinational Eurodistrict of Basel.
Courtesy of one of Europe's most famous rivers,
the Rhine, vessels are able to navigate
all the way to the North Sea.
Its 1200 kilometer length has coursed through wars
and formed borders for centuries.
From its Alpine source, Basel
is the first major city it reaches
and where the water shifts north from its westward course.
With some 7000 ships and boats along the Rhine
at any one time, it is one of the world's busiest rivers.
Moving from water to air,
the EuroAirport Basel Mulhouse Freiburg
is actually based on French soil,
but jointly managed by Switzerland.
It opened in 1946 as a powerful symbol
of postwar cooperation.
The French provided the land,
and the Swiss paid the construction costs,
making it one of the few airports run by two countries.
Business suffered after 2001 when the national carrier
Swiss Air was liquidated,
but later recovered with the arrival of low cost airlines.
Today, more than 5 million passengers each year
pass through its terminal.
Basel isn't a hub for air and river transport alone.
Passing through are two motorways,
forming great arteries of central Europe.
The E25 heads south from Holland,
through Belgium, France and Switzerland,
ending up in Sicily via a few ferry rides.
The E35 comes down through Germany and Switzerland,
then passes through northern Italy into Rome.
An integrated transport network
was a founding principle of the European Union
to stimulate the market and allow
the free movement of its citizens.
This rippling, lush countryside is part of Basel-Landschaft,
one of Switzerland's 26 states, known as cantons.
By the year 1900, the region was undergoing
industrialization, with the production
of textiles, metals and chemicals.
But even today, dairy farming, cattle breeding
and fruit growing still bear a reminder
of the region's roots in the soil.
Continuing south into the canton of Solothurn,
we find Neu-Falkenstein Castle,
one of more than 25 fortresses named Falkenstein
in the German speaking world.
Though this one has new in its name,
it's thought to be older than the nearby
Old Falkenstein Castle.
Historians say a noble family built it
in the early 12th century to shore up control
over an important road.
In 1356, the castle was toppled by a heavy earthquake,
but locals managed to put it back together.
Until 400 years later that is,
when angry peasants set it on fire,
ruining it for good.
What is now left, nonetheless, remains
one of Switzerland's most cherished sites.
It's open to the public and available to hire
for special events.
Heading southwest over the rolling farmland,
we approach a ridge that forms part
of the Thal Regional Nature Park.
It's home to the lynx wildcat
and lucky birdwatchers might even spot
a golden eagle swooping through the skies.
Fortress ruins betray the once strategic importance
of this valley as a thoroughfare.
But marauders have been replaced by hikers and cyclists
keen to enjoy the many routes through the park.
We reach the Aare River, which interestingly
starts and ends within landlocked Switzerland.
The covered wooden bridge we see today
was built in the mid 1500s,
though two other bridges are said to have preceded it.
Around the crossing grew the small town
of Wangen an der Aare, access to which was levied
by a toll on users of both the road and the river.
Passing over swathes of farmland,
a sea of urban dwellings takes shape.
The city of Bern.
(stately music)
The Swiss capital was described by
18th century writer Goethe as
"the most beautiful we've ever seen."
Like Zurich, Bern is famed for quality of life,
but its 130,000 residents move to a more relaxed rhythm.
(stately music and birds chirping)
And its charming Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site
with medieval sandstone buildings
and six kilometers of covered walkways.
(stately music)
The jewel in the city's crown is its stunning
Gothic cathedral, Bern Minster.
Though started in 1491, its 100 meter tower
was only finished after 400 years,
making it the tallest cathedral in Switzerland.
In the 20th century, its graveyard was transformed
into a park with chestnut trees and pathways,
providing a fine spot to view the gorgeous Old Town
and the meandering Aare river.
Sweeping westward from the city is the farmland
that's famous for cattle breeding and dairy products,
one specialty being the popular cheese Emmental.
Such fertile soil was in times past
a prize to be won and defended.
In the 14th century, Laupen Castle
was one of a number that aimed to secure
the city of Bern's control over the region.
But such expansion began to worry its neighbors.
In 1339, the fortress defended a ferocious attack
by the mighty Hapsburgs.
Against the odds, Bern emerged victorious
and today Laupen still stands
as a symbol of the city's pride.
Splendidly restored, its magnificent Knights' Hall,
beamed roof and open chimney
are available for visits all year round.
Shimmering into view further west is Lake Murten.
On the southeastern shore, the small town of Murten
is also famous for an historic battle.
It was here in 1476 where the Swiss defeated
the Duke of Burgundy.
After a 13 day siege, an army from neighboring Bern
came to the rescue, slaughtering some 10,000
of the Duke's soldiers.
It's a victory that's still celebrated in June each year.
The medieval town has been preserved
immaculately since that time.
Its fortifications are intact, and its city walls
are the only ones in Switzerland that can be walked
all the way around.
Ironically today, these battlements that once witnessed
horrific scenes of violence now make Murten
a charming destination for tourists.
August enjoys an almost Mediterranean climate,
and with its various festivals,
is a favorite time for visitors and locals.
The events include a series of classical music concerts
in the castle courtyard and Old Town.
There's also an open air cinema,
set against the picturesque backdrop of the lake.
The many ferries and excursions offer a cooling break
from the summer heat.
An hour's ride is enough to reach
the wine growing region of Vully
as well as neighboring lakes that link up by canal.
Just south is Avenches with its famous amphitheater.
2000 years ago, it was the site of Aventicum,
the capital of Roman Switzerland.
This is the country's best preserved amphitheater.
Built around 130 AD, it was then extended
some 35 years later under the reign
of Lucius Verus and Marcus Aurelius.
Every year, the amphitheater packs out
for an opera festival and an open air rock extravaganza.
These are only some of the events
that continue to bring this ancient space to life.
Just west of Lake Murten is its big sister, Neuchatel.
Covering 218 square kilometers,
this is Switzerland's largest body of water.
Its marshy south is a haven for birds,
while on its north shore, vineyards thrive in abundance.
Here in the French speaking region
is where we find the medieval town of Neuchatel.
It prospered in the 1700s as a center for banking,
lace production and watchmaking.
A famous local dish is Fondue Neuchateloise,
which involves dipping cubes of bread into melted cheese.
Fortunately, the lakeside promenade provides
the perfect place to walk off such a hearty meal.
And towering over the houses is the castle
that gives the town its name.
The original structure was built around 1000 years ago
by the King of Burgundy as a present for his wife.
Since then, it's passed through the Hapsburgs,
the French, the Prussians, until finally
settling with the Swiss in 1848.
Next door is the Collegiate Church that's almost as old.
Today it provides a magnificent setting
for the classical music concerts
that are regularly held here.
Further along the lake, we discover a sumptuous surprise
nestled in the woods.
Gorgier Castle.
Most of what we see today was built in 1620.
Along with the impressive outbuildings,
it's recently undergone extensive renovation.
In 2014, the castle was put up for sale
with specs that are simply breathtaking.
The four hectare grounds boast a working drawbridge,
Gothic chapel, and helipad.
The main castle has 23 rooms as well
as a fully refurbished dungeon.
The guide price, a snip at $28 million
for one of the region's finest heritage sites.
The sweeping green vista of Boudry Forest
is just one side to Switzerland's rich landscape.
In this country with elevations ranging from 195 meters
to over 4 and 1/2 thousand above sea level,
flora and fauna change remarkably from region to region.
From fish that teem in rivers and lakes
to land creatures such as otter and boar.
All in all, some 40,000 animal species are native.
And finally, we arrive at the last stop on our route.
Here the forest gives way to the most impressive
natural wonder of western Switzerland, Creux du Van.
Soaring over the valley below, these giant
horseshoe cliffs were formed during the last ice age.
The tremendous force of shifting glaciers
carved and sliced through the ancient Jurassic rock.
What they exposed were layers of limestone,
formed 200 million years ago when this entire area
was one vast tropical ocean.
Today, Creux du Van is a prize stop for hikers
as well as a place of power for mystics
who believe these dizzying cilffs
are positively bursting with cosmic healing energy.
But whatever your leaning, there's no denying,
it's a magical sight and a perfect place
to end this journey.
(triumphant music)
(TVF jingle)
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