Original subtitles

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(orchestral music)

- Our journey starts at Reykjavik,

Europe's northernmost capital.

From there, we travel to the Reykjanes Peninsula,

one of the most active volcanic regions in the world.

After paying a visit to Iceland's top tourist attraction,

the Blue Lagoon Thermal Baths,

we explore the villages and lava fields

of the southwest coast.

We then head inland to the world's

second largest geothermal power plant at Hengill.

We return to the southern coast at Eyrarbakki,

one of a number of villages situated

on the world's largest, post Ice-Age lava field.

Out to sea, we explore the Westman Islands,

also known as the Pompeii of the North.

Finally, we visit Surtsey, one of the world's

most important scientific discoveries.

Iceland's rich history dates back

to the 9th century and the age of Vikings.

It's believed today's Reykjavik was the site

of their first permanent settlement.

Europe's northernmost capital enjoys one

of the highest living standards in the world.

With its abundance of renewable energy,

Reykjavik is also considered to be the world's

greenest city, a great source of local pride.

While Iceland remains Europe's most sparsely

populated country, roughly 2/3 its 320,000 inhabitants

live in or around the capital.

With it's commercial shipping facilities,

international airport, and striking architecture,

Reykjavik has embraced its status

as a thriving, modern city.

One distinctive building is known as the Pearl,

a storage facility for geo-thermally heated water.

The location here, a mere two degrees south

of the Arctic Circle, means short four hour days in winter.

But in the summer, Reykjavik becomes the land

of the midnight sun, with nearly 24 hours of daylight.

Swimming is a great way to pass Iceland's long summer days.

The use of geothermal pools means year-round bathing.

A fine example of the country's unique

architectural style is Hallgrimskirkja Cathedral,

one of Reykjavik's most recognizable landmarks.

At nearly 75 meters, the majestic tower's

design was inspired by the shapes

and patterns found in lava formations.

Of course, no visit to Iceland's capital would be complete

without exploring the colorful housing

of the city's neighborhoods.

Painting buildings this way goes back

to the early 1900s when corrugated iron was used

as a cheap and abundant building material.

The problem was that it quickly rusted.

So, in resourceful Icelandic fashion,

the home owners looked no further

than the leftover paints from boatyards

to rust-proof their houses.

It also made the city blaze with color.

Though today building materials are mixed,

it's a habit that's clearly stuck.

Another of Iceland's traditions holds an even

greater significance than housing or architecture.

Built in 1992, Rekjavik City Hall may be a sleek bold,

structure built for a modern government,

but democracy in Iceland has roots dating

back more than a thousand years.

The country's first parliamentary government was established

around the year 930 and endured for three centuries.

One of the city's most beloved works of public art,

the Sun Voyager pays homage to Iceland's Viking past.

The sculpture is an ode to the sun said

to represent a dream ship, a fitting symbol

of the country's seafaring history.

Although Rekjavik has embraced its modern status,

the city remains deeply connected to its past.

Away from the noisy hustle and bustle is Arbaejarsafn,

a museum that celebrates the country's building traditions.

Established in 1957, it set out preserve

Iceland's culture and heritage for future generations.

Most of the houses were taken

from Reykjavik's oldest neighborhoods

and from distant fishing hamlets,

then carefully reconstructed.

On the city's northern edge, we find another historic home,

one which altered the course of modern history.

Hofdi House, built in 1909, became the site

of one the most notable meetings of the modern age.

On the 11th of October, 1986, Ronald Reagan

and Mikhail Gorbachev met here for two days

to discuss the possible decommissioning of nuclear weapons.

As for Iceland's own history, more than 100 lighthouses

stand as symbols of the nation's deep connection to the sea.

Located in the Seltjarnarnes Peninsula nature reserve

on Reykjanik's Northwest tip is Grotta Lighthouse.

The tower has stood watch over the entrance

to the harbor since it was originally built in 1894.

Although the building itself is closed to the public,

this spot is considered to be one of the best places

in the city to watch the Northern Lights.

As we travel along the southwest coast,

these clouds are a clue as to how Reyjavik,

which means smoky bay, was originally given its name.

The early settlers marveled at the thick clouds

of steam that once shrouded this volcanic landscape.

The lava and ash have also given Iceland

its rich mineral resources.

One of the country's key industries is aluminum smelting.

With an annual capacity of more than 185,000 tons,

this Rio Tinto plant is an important part

of the national economy.

Today, aluminum accounts for around 20%

of Iceland's total exports.

As we continue west, winding roads snake

their way across the vast landscape.

These roads often serve as the only connection

between larger towns and the most remote pockets

of Iceland's sparse population.

Like the small fishing hamlet of Vogar,

which sprang up in the early 20th century.

It gained importance when larger harbors became necessary

to accommodate the increasing size of fishing vessels.

We cross the harbor, and head towards Reykjanes Peninsula,

a birding and nature reserve.

The waters here are also an important seasonal habitat

for several species of whales and dolphins.

Sheltered by the harbor is the municipality

of Reykjanesbaer.

Though fishing has always been vital

for the communities here, it gained military importance

after the second world war when a key

U.S. Naval base was established on this site.

Decommissioned in 2006, it's since been transformed

into a vocational college

which includes a renowned aviation program.

Future pilots also train here at nearby Keflavik Airport.

Originally built for the military in 1943,

civilian traffic gradually took over.

It now services more than two million passengers each year.

Most visitors flock to one of Iceland's newest additions:

the Blue Lagoon Thermal Baths.

These pools are the country's leading tourist attraction.

It all began when a nearby geothermal

power plant opened in 1976.

A stream of excess water from the facility

saturated the porous lava field,

creating the pools we see today.

A blend of silica and blue-green algae

creates the distinctive milky color.

Many visitors believe the water helps with skin complaints.

The Blue Lagoon may be fairly new,

but Icelanders have been utilizing

hot water pools for centuries.

The first man-made geothermal facility

in Iceland dates back to the early 13th century,

but the tradition of bathing in the hot

springs has been an important part of the national culture

since the first settlement in the 9th century.

Today, the Blue Lagoon welcomes more than 400,000 visitors

each year from every corner of the globe.

It may not be a naturally occurring phenomenon,

but its impressive size and the water's unique

characteristics ensure its place

as one of the man-made wonders of the world.

These pools are also another example

of Iceland's penchant for finding innovative ways

to utilize available resources.

The abundance of geothermal power generated

from this peninsula makes it the lifeblood of Iceland.

It is, after all, situated on a visible rift zone

with five distinct volcanic regions.

Since most of the world's rift zones are underwater,

the peninsula offers a rare glimpse

of the North American and Eurasian Plates

as they pull away from each other, albeit very, very slowly.

With each period of volcanic activity,

Iceland continues to grow and gain landmass,

making the Reykjanes Peninsula a geologist's dream.

These mountains were formed during the last Ice Age.

When an snow-capped volcano erupted,

torrents of lava ripped channels through the glacier,

forming the peaks and ridges we see today.

A 450 year period between the 9th

and 14th centuries was particularly active.

16 lava fields were created by

at least four separate eruptions,

each leaving its own distinctive pattern of lava formation.

The cliffs along the southwestern coast

offer a spectacular glimpse

of Iceland's fascinating geological history.

Even in the remotest regions,

small farms dot the rugged terrain.

Traditional shore-farming and fishing techniques

in these areas remained virtually unchanged

until the turn of the 20th century.

The unsurfaced roads connecting

these remote locations are simply carved directly

into the lava-another great example

of Iceland's resourcefulness.

More than half the country's 13,000 kilometers

of roads are made this way.

But it does leave the surface a little dusty.

We continue across the vast expanses of wilderness

for a first-hand encounter

with the country's most abundant natural resource.

Beyond these rocky crags and along this

winding road lies Hellisheide Geothermal Power Station,

the second largest of its kind in the world.

The plant opened in 2006 and has since

undergone several expansions.

Today, Iceland is one of the world's foremost leaders

in geothermal technology.

Nearly all the nation's electricity is produced

using renewable resources such as

geothermal and hydro-electric power.

An estimated 90% of the population uses green energy.

Iceland may be young from a geological perspective,

but its first inhabitants arrived here long

before Europeans settled in the Americas.

Situated on the banks of the Olfusa River is Selfoss,

Iceland's first inland town.

There's been a settlement here for over a thousand years.

It gained important significance

after the first bridge spanning the Olfusa River

was built here in 1891.

Until that time, traffic had to be ferried across the rough,

dangerous waters of the fast-flowing river.

We return to the coast at Eyrarbakki,

once Iceland's largest trade port and cultural hub.

Local lore tells of a sailor from this town

named Lief Erikson, who was compelled by the rumor

of a strange new land beyond the Atlantic Ocean,

told to him by a seafarer who'd been blown off course.

The truth may never be known, but many historians

now credit Leif Erikson as the first European to set foot

on North American soil 500 years before Columbus.

As we follow the coastline we come

to the nearby fishing village of Stokkseyri.

In addition to its small human population,

nearly 70 species of birds have been recorded.

Amid five square kilometers of flood meadows and ponds,

these wetlands have been designated the Floi Bird

nature reserve.

The entire surrounding area is part

of the massive Pjorsa Lava plain.

Pjorsa is the largest post-Ice Age lava flow on earth.

For local sailors stirring clear

of Iceland's most traitorous stretches

of shoreline has been a challenge for centuries.

Keeping careful watch over the rocky

shore is Knarraros Lighthouse.

Since its construction in 1938,

it has played a critical role

for vessels sailing in the region.

With barely fertile lava plains as far

as the eye can see, it's understandable

why most early inhabitants chose to be near the coast.

Further inland, settlements grew beside rivers.

This sparsely scattered village

of Pykkvibaer has sustained itself

with fish from the Holsa River since the arrival

of its first inhabitants in the 9th century.

Today, anglers depend on a carefully planned program

to replenish the salmon and trout stock.

An increasing number of tourists visit Pykkvibaer

to enjoy one of the country's premier fishing experiences.

Protecting the country's natural

resources is an important part of Icelandic culture.

The use of fertilizers and pesticides are strictly limited.

Pollution from nitrogen and phosphorus are virtually

nonexistent in Iceland's rivers and lakes.

Life is usually peaceful for those living

in the shadow of Katla, even though it's one

of Iceland's most dangerous volcanoes.

On average, there's an eruption every 60 years,

and the next is long overdue.

But molten lava and ash aren't the only cause for concern.

Melt from the glacier has led

to catastrophic flooding in the past.

Just off the southern coast, we find another of Iceland's

most active volcanic locations, the Westman Islands.

The name refers to the Irish people

who fled here after escaping slavery on Iceland's mainland.

The Irish were called Westmen because

Ireland was the westernmost country known

to Nordic people at that time.

We spot a whaling ship heading out in hope of a catch.

It's one of only three countries

where commercial whaling is still permitted,

although not without criticism from conservationists.

Formed by underwater volcanic activity,

the Westmans are made up of over 50 islands, pillars,

and rocks, all teeming with bird and marine life.

The largest and only populated one is Heimaey.

Measuring 13 1/2 square kilometers,

both the island and its population continue to grow.

But humans aren't the sole inhabitants.

The archipelago also hosts the largest

puffin colony on earth.

An estimated 30% of the world's puffins can be seen nesting

here in the summer months.

Although fishing has long been Heimaey Island's

most important industry, a growing portion

of the local economy now depends on puffin-related tourism.

Icelanders have always found creative ways

to utilize their natural resources,

and the island's small airport is no exception.

Lava and ash from the most recent volcanic

eruption were used to refurbish and extend the runway.

Landing at Vestmannaeyjar Airport must be an extraordinary

experience for first-time visitors

since, on stepping out of the terminal,

you're greeted by a dominating volcano

only a few hundred meters away.

It's one of two on the island that lie side by side

and are part of the Vestmannaeyjar volcanic belt,

a system that covers almost 900 square kilometers.

The smaller volcano is Helgafell, or Holy Mountain.

This 227 meter cinder cone last erupted 5,000 years ago,

and is no longer considered to be active.

Its neighbor on the other hand, has not been so quiet.

With no sign of seismic activity for the moment,

Eldfell, or Fire Mountain, makes a nice afternoon hike.

But a massive eruption just a few decades ago resulted

in the town's nickname Pompeii of the North.

On the 23rd of January 1973, a 1600 meter crack burst

open on Eldfell's east side.

Glowing fountains of lava spewed 150 meters

into the air for several weeks.

The eruption eventually slowed,

but lava continued to flow for another five months.

By June, 417 houses were destroyed,

and the town was covered with 250 million cubic meters

of ash and volcanic debris.

But the damage would have been much

greater had it not been for a few brave souls

and a clever attempt to stop the advancing wall of lava.

Firefighters laid 30 kilometers of pipeline

and used 43 pumps to douse the lava

with icy seawater from the North Atlantic.

It was the first such attempt anywhere in the world

and the monumental effort paid off.

They were able to halt the flow and save most of the town.

Geologically, the Westmans are quite new,

less than 10,000 years old.

But Icelanders and scientists from

around the world were in for quite a surprise

when a totally new island suddenly emerged.

Surtsey first appeared one November day in 1963

as a column of thick, black dust rising from the ocean.

By the second day, a mound of cooling

rock was protruding 10 meters above the waves.

The eruption continued for another four years.

By then, the island had spread to nearly

three square kilometers and reached a height of 170 meters.

Surtsey's unexpected appearance offered an invaluable

opportunity for scientists.

Processes such as soil creation and the development

of plant and wildlife species could be directly observed.

Aside from members of the island's small research center,

human contact with Surtsey Island is strictly prohibited.

Restrictions also limit diving,

boating, and even flying nearby.

The select few allowed to visit must take careful

precautions to avoid accidentally introducing seeds

or insects into the island's ecosystem.

The United Nations organization, UNESCO,

saw Surtsey as a pristine natural laboratory

to be treasured and protected.

And, as such, was declared a World Heritage Site in 2008.

It's the new addition to the spectacular Westman Islands

that continue to tell the story

of our forever changing planet.

A perfect place to end this journey.

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