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(dramatic music)
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(orchestral music)
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- Our journey
starts at Reykjavik,
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Europe's northernmost capital.
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From there, we travel to
the Reykjanes Peninsula,
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one of the most active
volcanic regions in the world.
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After paying a visit to
Iceland's top tourist attraction,
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the Blue Lagoon Thermal Baths,
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we explore the villages and lava fields
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of the southwest coast.
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We then head inland to the world's
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second largest geothermal
power plant at Hengill.
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We return to the southern
coast at Eyrarbakki,
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one of a number of villages situated
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on the world's largest,
post Ice-Age lava field.
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Out to sea, we explore
the Westman Islands,
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also known as the Pompeii of the North.
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Finally, we visit Surtsey,
one of the world's
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most important scientific discoveries.
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Iceland's rich history dates back
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to the 9th century and the age of Vikings.
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It's believed today's
Reykjavik was the site
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of their first permanent settlement.
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Europe's northernmost capital enjoys one
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of the highest living
standards in the world.
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With its abundance of renewable energy,
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Reykjavik is also
considered to be the world's
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greenest city, a great
source of local pride.
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While Iceland remains
Europe's most sparsely
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populated country, roughly
2/3 its 320,000 inhabitants
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live in or around the capital.
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With it's commercial shipping facilities,
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international airport,
and striking architecture,
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Reykjavik has embraced its status
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as a thriving, modern city.
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One distinctive building
is known as the Pearl,
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a storage facility for
geo-thermally heated water.
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The location here, a
mere two degrees south
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of the Arctic Circle, means
short four hour days in winter.
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But in the summer,
Reykjavik becomes the land
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of the midnight sun, with
nearly 24 hours of daylight.
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Swimming is a great way to pass
Iceland's long summer days.
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The use of geothermal pools
means year-round bathing.
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A fine example of the country's unique
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architectural style is
Hallgrimskirkja Cathedral,
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one of Reykjavik's most
recognizable landmarks.
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At nearly 75 meters, the majestic tower's
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design was inspired by the shapes
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and patterns found in lava formations.
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Of course, no visit to Iceland's
capital would be complete
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without exploring the colorful housing
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of the city's neighborhoods.
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Painting buildings this way goes back
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to the early 1900s when
corrugated iron was used
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as a cheap and abundant building material.
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The problem was that it quickly rusted.
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So, in resourceful Icelandic fashion,
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the home owners looked no further
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than the leftover paints from boatyards
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to rust-proof their houses.
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It also made the city blaze with color.
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Though today building materials are mixed,
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it's a habit that's clearly stuck.
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Another of Iceland's
traditions holds an even
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greater significance than
housing or architecture.
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Built in 1992, Rekjavik City
Hall may be a sleek bold,
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structure built for a modern government,
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but democracy in Iceland has roots dating
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back more than a thousand years.
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The country's first parliamentary
government was established
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around the year 930 and
endured for three centuries.
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One of the city's most
beloved works of public art,
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the Sun Voyager pays homage
to Iceland's Viking past.
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The sculpture is an ode to the sun said
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to represent a dream
ship, a fitting symbol
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of the country's seafaring history.
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Although Rekjavik has
embraced its modern status,
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the city remains deeply
connected to its past.
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Away from the noisy hustle
and bustle is Arbaejarsafn,
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a museum that celebrates the
country's building traditions.
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Established in 1957, it set out preserve
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Iceland's culture and heritage
for future generations.
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Most of the houses were taken
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from Reykjavik's oldest neighborhoods
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and from distant fishing hamlets,
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then carefully reconstructed.
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On the city's northern edge,
we find another historic home,
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one which altered the
course of modern history.
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Hofdi House, built in
1909, became the site
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of one the most notable
meetings of the modern age.
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On the 11th of October,
1986, Ronald Reagan
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and Mikhail Gorbachev
met here for two days
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to discuss the possible
decommissioning of nuclear weapons.
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As for Iceland's own history,
more than 100 lighthouses
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stand as symbols of the nation's
deep connection to the sea.
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Located in the Seltjarnarnes
Peninsula nature reserve
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on Reykjanik's Northwest
tip is Grotta Lighthouse.
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The tower has stood
watch over the entrance
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to the harbor since it was
originally built in 1894.
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Although the building itself
is closed to the public,
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this spot is considered to
be one of the best places
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in the city to watch the Northern Lights.
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As we travel along the southwest coast,
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these clouds are a clue
as to how Reyjavik,
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which means smoky bay, was
originally given its name.
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The early settlers marveled
at the thick clouds
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of steam that once shrouded
this volcanic landscape.
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The lava and ash have also given Iceland
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its rich mineral resources.
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One of the country's key
industries is aluminum smelting.
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With an annual capacity
of more than 185,000 tons,
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this Rio Tinto plant is an important part
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of the national economy.
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Today, aluminum accounts for around 20%
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of Iceland's total exports.
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As we continue west, winding roads snake
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their way across the vast landscape.
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These roads often serve
as the only connection
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between larger towns and
the most remote pockets
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of Iceland's sparse population.
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Like the small fishing hamlet of Vogar,
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which sprang up in the early 20th century.
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It gained importance when
larger harbors became necessary
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to accommodate the increasing
size of fishing vessels.
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We cross the harbor, and head
towards Reykjanes Peninsula,
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a birding and nature reserve.
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The waters here are also an
important seasonal habitat
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for several species of
whales and dolphins.
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Sheltered by the harbor
is the municipality
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of Reykjanesbaer.
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Though fishing has always been vital
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for the communities here, it
gained military importance
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after the second world war when a key
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U.S. Naval base was
established on this site.
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Decommissioned in 2006,
it's since been transformed
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into a vocational college
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which includes a renowned
aviation program.
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Future pilots also train here
at nearby Keflavik Airport.
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Originally built for the military in 1943,
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civilian traffic gradually took over.
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It now services more than two
million passengers each year.
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Most visitors flock to one of
Iceland's newest additions:
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the Blue Lagoon Thermal Baths.
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These pools are the country's
leading tourist attraction.
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It all began when a nearby geothermal
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power plant opened in 1976.
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A stream of excess water from the facility
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saturated the porous lava field,
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creating the pools we see today.
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A blend of silica and blue-green algae
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creates the distinctive milky color.
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Many visitors believe the water
helps with skin complaints.
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The Blue Lagoon may be fairly new,
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but Icelanders have been utilizing
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hot water pools for centuries.
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The first man-made geothermal facility
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in Iceland dates back to
the early 13th century,
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but the tradition of bathing in the hot
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springs has been an important
part of the national culture
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since the first settlement
in the 9th century.
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Today, the Blue Lagoon welcomes
more than 400,000 visitors
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each year from every corner of the globe.
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It may not be a naturally
occurring phenomenon,
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but its impressive size
and the water's unique
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characteristics ensure its place
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as one of the man-made
wonders of the world.
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These pools are also another example
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of Iceland's penchant for
finding innovative ways
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to utilize available resources.
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The abundance of
geothermal power generated
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from this peninsula makes
it the lifeblood of Iceland.
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It is, after all, situated
on a visible rift zone
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with five distinct volcanic regions.
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Since most of the world's
rift zones are underwater,
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the peninsula offers a rare glimpse
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of the North American and Eurasian Plates
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as they pull away from each
other, albeit very, very slowly.
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With each period of volcanic activity,
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Iceland continues to
grow and gain landmass,
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making the Reykjanes
Peninsula a geologist's dream.
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These mountains were formed
during the last Ice Age.
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When an snow-capped volcano erupted,
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torrents of lava ripped
channels through the glacier,
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forming the peaks and ridges we see today.
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A 450 year period between the 9th
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and 14th centuries was
particularly active.
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16 lava fields were created by
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at least four separate eruptions,
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each leaving its own distinctive
pattern of lava formation.
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The cliffs along the southwestern coast
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offer a spectacular glimpse
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of Iceland's fascinating
geological history.
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Even in the remotest regions,
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small farms dot the rugged terrain.
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Traditional shore-farming
and fishing techniques
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in these areas remained
virtually unchanged
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until the turn of the 20th century.
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The unsurfaced roads connecting
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these remote locations
are simply carved directly
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into the lava-another great example
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of Iceland's resourcefulness.
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More than half the
country's 13,000 kilometers
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of roads are made this way.
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But it does leave the
surface a little dusty.
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We continue across the
vast expanses of wilderness
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for a first-hand encounter
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with the country's most
abundant natural resource.
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Beyond these rocky crags and along this
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00:14:01,510 --> 00:14:06,510
winding road lies Hellisheide
Geothermal Power Station,
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the second largest of
its kind in the world.
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The plant opened in 2006 and has since
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undergone several expansions.
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Today, Iceland is one of
the world's foremost leaders
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00:14:22,380 --> 00:14:24,153
in geothermal technology.
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00:14:25,820 --> 00:14:28,253
Nearly all the nation's
electricity is produced
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00:14:28,253 --> 00:14:31,420
using renewable resources such as
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00:14:31,420 --> 00:14:33,703
geothermal and hydro-electric power.
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00:14:34,860 --> 00:14:39,813
An estimated 90% of the
population uses green energy.
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Iceland may be young from
a geological perspective,
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but its first inhabitants
arrived here long
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00:14:51,649 --> 00:14:55,093
before Europeans settled in the Americas.
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00:14:56,350 --> 00:15:00,660
Situated on the banks of
the Olfusa River is Selfoss,
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Iceland's first inland town.
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There's been a settlement here
for over a thousand years.
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It gained important significance
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00:15:10,621 --> 00:15:14,600
after the first bridge
spanning the Olfusa River
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00:15:14,600 --> 00:15:17,420
was built here in 1891.
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00:15:17,420 --> 00:15:21,148
Until that time, traffic had
to be ferried across the rough,
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00:15:21,148 --> 00:15:24,123
dangerous waters of
the fast-flowing river.
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We return to the coast at Eyrarbakki,
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once Iceland's largest
trade port and cultural hub.
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Local lore tells of a
sailor from this town
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named Lief Erikson, who
was compelled by the rumor
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of a strange new land
beyond the Atlantic Ocean,
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told to him by a seafarer
who'd been blown off course.
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The truth may never be
known, but many historians
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00:15:55,340 --> 00:15:59,180
now credit Leif Erikson as
the first European to set foot
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on North American soil
500 years before Columbus.
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00:16:11,830 --> 00:16:13,840
As we follow the coastline we come
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00:16:13,840 --> 00:16:16,663
to the nearby fishing
village of Stokkseyri.
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00:16:22,560 --> 00:16:25,620
In addition to its small human population,
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00:16:25,620 --> 00:16:29,013
nearly 70 species of
birds have been recorded.
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00:16:35,950 --> 00:16:39,800
Amid five square kilometers
of flood meadows and ponds,
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00:16:39,800 --> 00:16:43,200
these wetlands have been
designated the Floi Bird
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00:16:43,200 --> 00:16:44,333
nature reserve.
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00:16:51,020 --> 00:16:53,440
The entire surrounding area is part
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00:16:53,440 --> 00:16:55,793
of the massive Pjorsa Lava plain.
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00:16:56,680 --> 00:17:01,193
Pjorsa is the largest post-Ice
Age lava flow on earth.
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00:17:02,300 --> 00:17:04,503
For local sailors stirring clear
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00:17:04,503 --> 00:17:06,790
of Iceland's most traitorous stretches
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00:17:06,790 --> 00:17:10,023
of shoreline has been a
challenge for centuries.
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00:17:11,000 --> 00:17:12,840
Keeping careful watch over the rocky
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00:17:12,840 --> 00:17:15,653
shore is Knarraros Lighthouse.
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00:17:16,960 --> 00:17:19,549
Since its construction in 1938,
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00:17:19,549 --> 00:17:21,470
it has played a critical role
256
00:17:21,470 --> 00:17:23,543
for vessels sailing in the region.
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00:17:30,830 --> 00:17:33,260
With barely fertile lava plains as far
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00:17:33,260 --> 00:17:35,960
as the eye can see, it's understandable
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00:17:35,960 --> 00:17:39,413
why most early inhabitants
chose to be near the coast.
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00:17:45,270 --> 00:17:48,973
Further inland, settlements
grew beside rivers.
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00:17:49,900 --> 00:17:51,380
This sparsely scattered village
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00:17:51,380 --> 00:17:53,730
of Pykkvibaer has sustained itself
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00:17:53,730 --> 00:17:56,660
with fish from the Holsa
River since the arrival
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00:17:56,660 --> 00:17:59,323
of its first inhabitants
in the 9th century.
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00:18:01,390 --> 00:18:04,668
Today, anglers depend on a
carefully planned program
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00:18:04,668 --> 00:18:07,483
to replenish the salmon and trout stock.
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00:18:08,470 --> 00:18:11,980
An increasing number of
tourists visit Pykkvibaer
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00:18:11,980 --> 00:18:15,563
to enjoy one of the country's
premier fishing experiences.
269
00:18:17,220 --> 00:18:18,820
Protecting the country's natural
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00:18:18,820 --> 00:18:22,313
resources is an important
part of Icelandic culture.
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00:18:23,250 --> 00:18:27,610
The use of fertilizers and
pesticides are strictly limited.
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00:18:27,610 --> 00:18:30,990
Pollution from nitrogen and
phosphorus are virtually
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00:18:30,990 --> 00:18:34,123
nonexistent in Iceland's rivers and lakes.
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00:18:37,730 --> 00:18:40,340
Life is usually peaceful for those living
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00:18:40,340 --> 00:18:43,030
in the shadow of Katla,
even though it's one
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00:18:43,030 --> 00:18:45,683
of Iceland's most dangerous volcanoes.
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00:18:47,580 --> 00:18:51,037
On average, there's an
eruption every 60 years,
278
00:18:51,037 --> 00:18:53,763
and the next is long overdue.
279
00:18:54,700 --> 00:18:59,700
But molten lava and ash aren't
the only cause for concern.
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00:18:59,750 --> 00:19:01,610
Melt from the glacier has led
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00:19:01,610 --> 00:19:04,263
to catastrophic flooding in the past.
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00:19:07,310 --> 00:19:10,870
Just off the southern coast,
we find another of Iceland's
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00:19:10,870 --> 00:19:15,053
most active volcanic
locations, the Westman Islands.
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00:19:17,070 --> 00:19:19,540
The name refers to the Irish people
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00:19:19,540 --> 00:19:23,333
who fled here after escaping
slavery on Iceland's mainland.
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00:19:24,510 --> 00:19:27,040
The Irish were called Westmen because
287
00:19:27,040 --> 00:19:29,780
Ireland was the westernmost country known
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00:19:29,780 --> 00:19:31,523
to Nordic people at that time.
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00:19:34,810 --> 00:19:39,010
We spot a whaling ship heading
out in hope of a catch.
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00:19:39,010 --> 00:19:41,055
It's one of only three countries
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00:19:41,055 --> 00:19:44,040
where commercial whaling
is still permitted,
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00:19:44,040 --> 00:19:47,343
although not without criticism
from conservationists.
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00:19:52,550 --> 00:19:55,320
Formed by underwater volcanic activity,
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00:19:55,320 --> 00:19:59,490
the Westmans are made up of
over 50 islands, pillars,
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00:19:59,490 --> 00:20:03,063
and rocks, all teeming
with bird and marine life.
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00:20:06,631 --> 00:20:10,363
The largest and only
populated one is Heimaey.
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00:20:11,420 --> 00:20:14,280
Measuring 13 1/2 square kilometers,
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00:20:14,280 --> 00:20:17,793
both the island and its
population continue to grow.
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00:20:19,640 --> 00:20:22,620
But humans aren't the sole inhabitants.
300
00:20:22,620 --> 00:20:25,610
The archipelago also hosts the largest
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00:20:25,610 --> 00:20:27,333
puffin colony on earth.
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00:20:29,170 --> 00:20:34,080
An estimated 30% of the world's
puffins can be seen nesting
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00:20:34,080 --> 00:20:35,973
here in the summer months.
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00:20:42,790 --> 00:20:45,100
Although fishing has long
been Heimaey Island's
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00:20:45,100 --> 00:20:47,884
most important industry, a growing portion
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00:20:47,884 --> 00:20:52,563
of the local economy now depends
on puffin-related tourism.
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00:20:58,240 --> 00:21:01,220
Icelanders have always found creative ways
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00:21:01,220 --> 00:21:03,573
to utilize their natural resources,
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00:21:06,650 --> 00:21:09,743
and the island's small
airport is no exception.
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00:21:12,410 --> 00:21:14,910
Lava and ash from the most recent volcanic
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00:21:14,910 --> 00:21:19,363
eruption were used to refurbish
and extend the runway.
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00:21:23,760 --> 00:21:27,460
Landing at Vestmannaeyjar
Airport must be an extraordinary
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00:21:27,460 --> 00:21:30,280
experience for first-time visitors
314
00:21:30,280 --> 00:21:32,600
since, on stepping out of the terminal,
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00:21:32,600 --> 00:21:35,317
you're greeted by a dominating volcano
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00:21:35,317 --> 00:21:37,673
only a few hundred meters away.
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00:21:39,468 --> 00:21:43,111
It's one of two on the
island that lie side by side
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00:21:43,111 --> 00:21:46,903
and are part of the
Vestmannaeyjar volcanic belt,
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00:21:46,903 --> 00:21:51,680
a system that covers almost
900 square kilometers.
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00:21:51,680 --> 00:21:56,680
The smaller volcano is
Helgafell, or Holy Mountain.
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00:21:57,000 --> 00:22:02,000
This 227 meter cinder cone
last erupted 5,000 years ago,
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00:22:03,310 --> 00:22:06,283
and is no longer considered to be active.
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00:22:07,210 --> 00:22:10,933
Its neighbor on the other
hand, has not been so quiet.
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00:22:13,180 --> 00:22:16,610
With no sign of seismic
activity for the moment,
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00:22:16,610 --> 00:22:21,350
Eldfell, or Fire Mountain,
makes a nice afternoon hike.
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00:22:21,350 --> 00:22:25,230
But a massive eruption just
a few decades ago resulted
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00:22:25,230 --> 00:22:28,493
in the town's nickname
Pompeii of the North.
328
00:22:30,770 --> 00:22:35,770
On the 23rd of January 1973,
a 1600 meter crack burst
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00:22:36,410 --> 00:22:39,800
open on Eldfell's east side.
330
00:22:39,800 --> 00:22:43,540
Glowing fountains of
lava spewed 150 meters
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00:22:43,540 --> 00:22:46,370
into the air for several weeks.
332
00:22:46,370 --> 00:22:48,800
The eruption eventually slowed,
333
00:22:48,800 --> 00:22:52,530
but lava continued to flow
for another five months.
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00:22:52,530 --> 00:22:57,450
By June, 417 houses were destroyed,
335
00:22:57,450 --> 00:23:01,530
and the town was covered
with 250 million cubic meters
336
00:23:01,530 --> 00:23:04,380
of ash and volcanic debris.
337
00:23:04,380 --> 00:23:05,930
But the damage would have been much
338
00:23:05,930 --> 00:23:09,228
greater had it not been
for a few brave souls
339
00:23:09,228 --> 00:23:13,503
and a clever attempt to stop
the advancing wall of lava.
340
00:23:15,200 --> 00:23:18,600
Firefighters laid 30
kilometers of pipeline
341
00:23:18,600 --> 00:23:21,650
and used 43 pumps to douse the lava
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00:23:21,650 --> 00:23:24,800
with icy seawater from the North Atlantic.
343
00:23:24,800 --> 00:23:27,680
It was the first such
attempt anywhere in the world
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00:23:27,680 --> 00:23:31,340
and the monumental effort paid off.
345
00:23:31,340 --> 00:23:35,793
They were able to halt the
flow and save most of the town.
346
00:23:38,624 --> 00:23:41,950
Geologically, the Westmans are quite new,
347
00:23:41,950 --> 00:23:44,492
less than 10,000 years old.
348
00:23:44,492 --> 00:23:46,820
But Icelanders and scientists from
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00:23:46,820 --> 00:23:49,696
around the world were
in for quite a surprise
350
00:23:49,696 --> 00:23:53,719
when a totally new
island suddenly emerged.
351
00:23:53,719 --> 00:23:58,719
Surtsey first appeared
one November day in 1963
352
00:23:59,230 --> 00:24:03,573
as a column of thick, black
dust rising from the ocean.
353
00:24:04,890 --> 00:24:07,490
By the second day, a mound of cooling
354
00:24:07,490 --> 00:24:11,660
rock was protruding 10
meters above the waves.
355
00:24:11,660 --> 00:24:15,220
The eruption continued
for another four years.
356
00:24:15,220 --> 00:24:17,420
By then, the island had spread to nearly
357
00:24:17,420 --> 00:24:22,420
three square kilometers and
reached a height of 170 meters.
358
00:24:22,956 --> 00:24:27,020
Surtsey's unexpected appearance
offered an invaluable
359
00:24:27,020 --> 00:24:28,973
opportunity for scientists.
360
00:24:30,269 --> 00:24:33,750
Processes such as soil
creation and the development
361
00:24:33,750 --> 00:24:37,563
of plant and wildlife species
could be directly observed.
362
00:24:39,690 --> 00:24:42,890
Aside from members of the
island's small research center,
363
00:24:42,890 --> 00:24:47,696
human contact with Surtsey
Island is strictly prohibited.
364
00:24:47,696 --> 00:24:50,232
Restrictions also limit diving,
365
00:24:50,232 --> 00:24:53,970
boating, and even flying nearby.
366
00:24:53,970 --> 00:24:57,292
The select few allowed to
visit must take careful
367
00:24:57,292 --> 00:25:00,184
precautions to avoid
accidentally introducing seeds
368
00:25:00,184 --> 00:25:03,793
or insects into the island's ecosystem.
369
00:25:04,696 --> 00:25:08,250
The United Nations organization, UNESCO,
370
00:25:08,250 --> 00:25:11,836
saw Surtsey as a pristine
natural laboratory
371
00:25:11,836 --> 00:25:14,363
to be treasured and protected.
372
00:25:15,410 --> 00:25:20,410
And, as such, was declared a
World Heritage Site in 2008.
373
00:25:20,840 --> 00:25:24,970
It's the new addition to the
spectacular Westman Islands
374
00:25:24,970 --> 00:25:27,000
that continue to tell the story
375
00:25:27,000 --> 00:25:29,690
of our forever changing planet.
376
00:25:29,690 --> 00:25:32,343
A perfect place to end this journey.
377
00:25:35,261 --> 00:25:38,011
(dramatic music)
31304
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