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(upbeat music)
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- Our journey
begins amongst the hills
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and medieval ruins of
the Palatinate Forest.
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Crossing the vast vineyards
of the Rhine Valley
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takes us to Karlsruhe, the city planned
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around its grand palace.
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After a detour to Bruchsal we
head to bustling Stuttgart,
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home of Mercedes Benz.
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From there it's east to the
wall city of Nordlingen.
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Then through the countryside
to the enchanted Bavarian town
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of Rothenburg ob der Tauber.
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Following the popular tourist trail
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known as the Romantic
Road takes us to Wurzburg
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and its famous palace.
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East along the banks of the river Main
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is a magnificent city that's
the last stop on our route,
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the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Bamberg.
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Straddling the border with
France in southwest Germany
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is where we find the Palatinate Forest,
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home to low lying mountains and swaths
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of pine and chestnut trees.
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More than a hundred
medieval castles and ruins
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still cling to imposing
sandstone peaks and cliffs.
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Beyond the trees, just
past the Haardt Mountains
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the rolling hills give
way to the Rhineland.
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This region is Germany's second
largest producer of wine,
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and here Riesling is king.
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The Romans realized grapes
could be planted in this area,
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but it was the medieval monks
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who established the
region's finest vineyards.
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Today German vintners carry
on centuries old traditions
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to produce some of the
finest wines in the world.
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Their heritage lies in 85 kilometers
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of ancient vine clad fields
whose roots reach east
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to cross the Rhine River.
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It's where we find the city of Karlsruhe
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and its striking palace and gardens.
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It was originally built for the Margrave
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Karl Wilhelm in 1715.
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He ordered the clearing of a large swath
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of the northern edge of the Black Forest
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in order to build his summer residence.
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But as it went its construction
also marked the birth
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of a new city.
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32 streets and avenues radiate out
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from the palace tower
like the ribs of a fan.
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Allied bombing in 1944
destroyed the palace
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and narrowly missed the Queen of Sweden,
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who was sleeping in one
of the resident wings.
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It was quickly rebuilt
and today houses a museum
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and part of the Federal
Constitutional Court.
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On route to our next stop
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is the picture postcard countryside
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where asparagus thrives in the fine sand
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of the Rhine Plain.
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Germany is Europe's biggest producer
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of the prized vegetable.
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We come to Bruchsal and
its 18th Century palace
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lorded for its grand
courtyard and marble dome.
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It was the creation of the
architect Balthasar Neumann,
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considered to be the foremost master
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of the late Baroque style.
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He had a hand in most of
the major building projects
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in this region, including
more than a dozen churches.
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The palace complex boasts
over 50 individual buildings,
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and while the foundation
stone was laid in 1720
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it will be several decades
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before construction was completed.
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Today Bruchsal palace stands not only
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as a stunning illustration
of baroque architecture,
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but also a study of meticulous
and historically accurate
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reconstruction work that wasn't completed
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until well into the 1970s.
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Traveling southeast to
the outskirts of Stuttgart
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we find another gem, but
one with humble beginnings.
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Once a hunting lodge, Ludwigsburg Palace
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was converted to a residence
for a Duke and his mistress
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to become one of
Germany's premier palaces.
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Referred to as a Swabian Versailles
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it was amongst the largest
buildings in Europe
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in the mid 18th Century.
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The palatial complex
consists of 18 buildings
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with 452 rooms surrounded
by a park landscape.
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A five minute walk from the palace
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brings you to a small summer residence
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and hunting lodge called the Favorite,
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which provides sweeping
views of the grounds.
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The main courtyard is
as big as a city plaza
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with elaborate baroque manicured gardens,
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and it's these that steal the show.
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Thousands of tulips and
roses compete for attention
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alongside fruit trees and
Japanese bonsai plants.
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Another popular stop
is the fairytale garden
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that delights people of all ages.
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It features Rapunzel's
tower and other icons
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from Grimm's fairytales.
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One palace resident, Duke Eberhard Ludwig,
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is credited with the
planning of the gardens,
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but they often changed as
the royals came and went.
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At one point they were
even converted to orchards.
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Finally, in the 20th Century the grounds
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were returned to their former glory.
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And in 1953 they were
opened to the public.
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It's easy to see why they attract
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thousands of visitors every year.
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We leave the tranquility
of the palace garden
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and travel south to the bustling
state capital of Stuttgart.
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Often called Germany's biggest small town
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it transformed itself
from a pastoral oasis
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to one of the country's
leading industrial centers.
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It's also jokingly known as
the town that cars built.
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Not only are Mercedes, Maybach,
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and their parent company
Daimler based here,
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it's also the corporate home of Porsche.
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And yet Stuttgart is a city of contrast.
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Its industries are nestled
within a picturesque valley
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of leafy hillsides and park lands.
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It boasts an abundance
of arts and culture.
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It's home to the
International Bach Academy
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as well as top ranked ballet.
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And of course there's the ever present
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outdoor swimming pool, a common
site in many German cities.
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No trip to Stuttgart would be complete
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without a visit to the old castle.
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Standing in the very center of the city
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it dates back to the 10th Century
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when Stuttgart was a small settlement
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for breeding horses.
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This place started out as a fortress
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protecting the stud garden
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from which Stuttgart gets its name.
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In the 16th Century the original keep
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was converted into a Renaissance palace
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with a grand courtyard where
royal ceremonies took place.
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Today the castle is the home
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of the Wurttemberg State Museum,
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which displays antiquities from the time
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when the fortress was founded.
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Another Stuttgart attraction
is the famous double house.
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Built in 1927 it was a combined effort
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of 17 avant guard architects, among them
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the famed Le Corbusier.
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Standing on almost absurdly thin columns
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it was constructed as part
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of an international building exhibition.
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Le Corbusier believed
a home should function
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as a machine for living, and
intended the double house
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to be much like a car,
popular, standardized,
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and mass produced.
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00:10:14,270 --> 00:10:15,640
It wouldn't be surprising
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if the great architects
inspiration from cars
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sprang from here, just on
the other side of town.
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This is the renowned Mercedes-Benz works.
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The company dates back
to Karl Benz invention
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of the horseless carriage in 1885.
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And while they now operate
factories all over the globe
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their headquarters
remain here in Stuttgart.
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Its gleaming multistory museum
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draws more than 800,000 visitors each year
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who come to view an extensive collection
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of antique and modern vehicles.
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The official motto of Mercedes-Benz
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is the best or nothing.
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These cars are certainly
among the finest in the world,
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but with a price tag of around $90,000
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for a top of the range S class many of us
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might have to settle with the later,
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but we can still enjoy the museum
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where admission is free.
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But car manufacturing
isn't the only industry
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the city is known for.
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Just on the outskirts is
the town of Weinstadt.
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Set among 610 hectares of vineyards
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it's referred to by some
as the Tuscany of Germany.
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The name Weinstadt literally
translates as wine city.
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Tending the land is
the Rems Valley Winery,
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a cooperative owned by some
15 hundred local growers.
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It's the 10th largest in Germany.
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This region's signature
grape is the Trollinger,
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which makes red wines that
light in both color and taste
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and are grown almost exclusively
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in this particular area of Germany.
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Here we pass the Ipf, a
barely wooded mountain
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crowned by the traces of
a prehistoric hill fort.
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Nearby and overlooking
the town of Bopfingen
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is another relic of the past,
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the medieval ruins of Castle Flockberg.
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Once the home of Swabian nobles
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all that remains today
are the ghostly remnants
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of the ancient walls.
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We travel east into the
Bavarian countryside
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and the medieval wall town of Nordlingen.
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It's a place where old
traditions die hard.
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Every half hour between
10 p.m. and midnight
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a century climbs an old
tower and calls out,
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"all's well", across the ancient city.
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Nordlingen is built on the
site of an unusual depression
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which geologists believe was caused
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by a half kilometer wide meteorite
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that fell to Earth 15 million years ago.
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The old walls seem to perfectly trace
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the circle of the
surrounding crater hills.
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One extraordinary legacy of the impact
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is that each of the
original stone buildings
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in the town contains millions of diamonds.
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Alas, for potential prospectors
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they're all less than .2
millimeters in diameter.
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It's believed some 72,000
tons of the tiny gems
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were formed when the meteor collided
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with the local graphite deposit.
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Today Nordlingen remains one of only three
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medieval German towns with a
fully intact surrounding wall.
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Making our way north we
approach Schillingsfurst Castle.
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Rising high above the town and
situated on a rocky outcrop
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this massive baroque structure
can be seen for miles around.
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Though almost certainly a
pocket full, local tales
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00:14:21,740 --> 00:14:23,920
tell of the prince who built the castle
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being left with only a single shilling
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after paying for the opulent palace.
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And thus it was named, Schillingsfurst.
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The present structure is a successor
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to several fortified castles
that have dominated the spot
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since the 11th Century.
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It was also rebuilt no
less than three times
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after being destroyed.
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Today it stands proudly intact.
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Although still in private hands,
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it's open to the public for guided tours.
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Visitors who come
between March and October
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can also watch falconry displays
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held in the castle's
English stype courtyard.
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We continue north to possibly one
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of the most picturesque
towns on this journey,
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where a thousand years
of history is packed
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into its cobblestones,
Rothenburg ob der Tauber.
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It's a maze of winding streets filled
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with crooked half timbered buildings
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that look as if they've been
snatched out of a fairytale.
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From the 13th to the 15th Century
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Rothenburg was Germany's largest city.
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00:15:37,730 --> 00:15:40,640
It intersected two
prosperous trade routes,
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Prague to Paris and Hamburg to Venice.
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00:15:46,040 --> 00:15:48,890
But it was to undergo a
violent turn in its fortunes
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in the 1600s, during the Thirty Years War.
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The Catholic army captured
the bustling Protestant town
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and it was ransacked and looted.
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It slumbered for hundreds of years
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until it was rediscovered
in the 19th Century.
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00:16:05,760 --> 00:16:09,030
But as it turned out,
its isolation throughout
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that period had kept it
in a sort of time bubble,
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00:16:12,750 --> 00:16:16,360
eventually reemerging as one
of Europe's most authentic
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00:16:16,360 --> 00:16:18,963
and well preserved medieval towns.
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00:16:20,020 --> 00:16:22,180
Today it's one of the key stops
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on the Romantic Road, a
designated site seeing route
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00:16:26,580 --> 00:16:30,423
for all that might be considered
quintessentially German.
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00:16:31,550 --> 00:16:34,000
Some two and a half million visitors
257
00:16:34,000 --> 00:16:36,660
flock to the town each year to take in one
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00:16:36,660 --> 00:16:39,033
of Bavaria's most fabled settlements.
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00:16:39,910 --> 00:16:44,080
Amongst the sites are the
perfectly intact tile walls.
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00:16:44,080 --> 00:16:46,940
They connect five gated towers,
261
00:16:46,940 --> 00:16:50,780
constructed from the 13th
to the 16th Centuries.
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00:16:50,780 --> 00:16:53,410
Guided historic walking
tours take visitors
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00:16:53,410 --> 00:16:58,200
around the gothic churches,
exhibits, and museums.
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00:16:58,200 --> 00:17:00,160
And if that isn't enough to immerse you
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00:17:00,160 --> 00:17:03,730
in the city's past, Rothenburg
also offers a variety
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00:17:03,730 --> 00:17:07,743
of medieval themed festivals,
concerts and plays.
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00:17:10,990 --> 00:17:13,500
Flying south over Bavarian countryside
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00:17:13,500 --> 00:17:16,320
the sheer scale of farming
gives away the fact
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00:17:16,320 --> 00:17:19,773
that this state produces
the most food in Germany.
270
00:17:21,430 --> 00:17:24,510
And more land than
anywhere else in the land
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00:17:24,510 --> 00:17:27,850
is given to growing hops, after all
272
00:17:27,850 --> 00:17:30,793
it's an essential
ingredient in Bavarian beer.
273
00:17:34,430 --> 00:17:37,840
Our next destination
lies along an inland port
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00:17:37,840 --> 00:17:41,113
on the River Main, Wurzburg.
275
00:17:41,960 --> 00:17:44,800
It's a city steeped in history,
276
00:17:44,800 --> 00:17:47,550
the site of numerous
revolts and invasions,
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00:17:47,550 --> 00:17:50,150
and the devastation during World War Two
278
00:17:50,150 --> 00:17:53,163
where nearly 90% was reduced to rubble.
279
00:17:54,890 --> 00:17:56,540
Many of the original buildings
280
00:17:56,540 --> 00:18:00,160
have been laboriously restored
to their former glory,
281
00:18:00,160 --> 00:18:03,363
a fitting tribute to the
resilience of the local people.
282
00:18:06,150 --> 00:18:10,153
Today it remains the regional
capital of Lower Franconia.
283
00:18:11,860 --> 00:18:16,240
Wurzburg is a city of university
students and industry.
284
00:18:16,240 --> 00:18:20,063
It's renowned for its art,
architecture, and wine.
285
00:18:21,260 --> 00:18:24,770
The great 20th Century
German author, Hermann Hesse,
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00:18:24,770 --> 00:18:28,627
once said, "if I could
choose my place of birth
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00:18:28,627 --> 00:18:30,997
"I would consider Wurzburg."
288
00:18:34,510 --> 00:18:37,770
To the east is a real pearl of the city,
289
00:18:37,770 --> 00:18:42,693
a castle to beat all castles,
simply called The Residence.
290
00:18:44,030 --> 00:18:46,310
This magnificent baroque palace
291
00:18:46,310 --> 00:18:50,020
is one of the largest in
Germany, and deemed by Napoleon
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00:18:50,020 --> 00:18:52,853
to be the loveliest parsonage in Europe.
293
00:18:55,070 --> 00:18:57,850
Once home of the Prince
Bishop Sir Wurzburg,
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00:18:57,850 --> 00:19:01,160
this 400 room masterpiece
is said to be rivaled
295
00:19:01,160 --> 00:19:03,853
only by Versailles near Paris.
296
00:19:05,490 --> 00:19:08,670
In 1780 construction was coordinated
297
00:19:08,670 --> 00:19:11,450
by the young architect Balthasar Neumann
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00:19:11,450 --> 00:19:13,890
who worked with a
talented pool of craftsmen
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00:19:13,890 --> 00:19:15,343
from all across Europe.
300
00:19:19,360 --> 00:19:21,280
The Bishop who commissioned The Residence
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00:19:21,280 --> 00:19:25,730
wanted a proper palace rather
than the drafty old fortress
302
00:19:25,730 --> 00:19:27,630
of his predecessors.
303
00:19:27,630 --> 00:19:30,193
It seems his wish was granted.
304
00:19:34,260 --> 00:19:37,950
And towering over the city
is that very drafty old place
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00:19:37,950 --> 00:19:41,380
that served the Prince
Bishops five centuries prior
306
00:19:41,380 --> 00:19:45,103
to the building of The
Residence, Marienburg Castle.
307
00:19:46,280 --> 00:19:48,280
What it may have lacked in comfort
308
00:19:48,280 --> 00:19:52,413
was made up for as the
undisputed symbol of Wurzburg.
309
00:19:54,770 --> 00:19:57,590
The oldest building
within the fortress walls
310
00:19:57,590 --> 00:19:59,890
dates back to the eighth Century.
311
00:19:59,890 --> 00:20:02,140
But beginning in the 1200s and continuing
312
00:20:02,140 --> 00:20:04,530
throughout the Renaissance
and Baroque periods
313
00:20:04,530 --> 00:20:07,223
fortifications were continually added.
314
00:20:09,290 --> 00:20:11,810
Its first test of strength took place
315
00:20:11,810 --> 00:20:15,180
during the peasants
revolt of the 16th Century
316
00:20:15,180 --> 00:20:17,430
when an army of 15,000 peasants
317
00:20:17,430 --> 00:20:20,460
were unable to breech the outer walls.
318
00:20:20,460 --> 00:20:22,660
As a result they were soon outflanked
319
00:20:22,660 --> 00:20:26,150
by Swabian forces and half were massacred
320
00:20:26,150 --> 00:20:27,903
in the battel that ensued.
321
00:20:30,740 --> 00:20:34,430
Today it's an all together
more peaceful place,
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00:20:34,430 --> 00:20:37,300
and the Furstenau Museum
in the prince's wing
323
00:20:37,300 --> 00:20:39,810
of the fortress allows visitors to walk
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00:20:39,810 --> 00:20:43,203
through 1200 years of Wurzburg history.
325
00:20:47,260 --> 00:20:50,680
But one thing that hasn't
changed over the march of time
326
00:20:50,680 --> 00:20:53,383
is the German love for the outdoors.
327
00:20:54,760 --> 00:20:58,400
On hot summer days most
locals choose to cool off
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00:20:58,400 --> 00:20:59,813
at the community pool.
329
00:21:01,940 --> 00:21:06,380
Some 400 of these facilities
are dotted around Germany,
330
00:21:06,380 --> 00:21:08,830
offering the opportunity to swim and bathe
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00:21:08,830 --> 00:21:10,343
beneath the open sky.
332
00:21:12,100 --> 00:21:14,940
Such scenes have been prevalent
throughout the country
333
00:21:14,940 --> 00:21:16,573
since the 18th Century.
334
00:21:18,240 --> 00:21:20,300
But Germany's love affair with swimming
335
00:21:20,300 --> 00:21:22,430
goes back even further.
336
00:21:22,430 --> 00:21:25,780
In 1539 the world's first swimming manual
337
00:21:25,780 --> 00:21:28,883
was written by German languages
professor, Nicolas Wynman.
338
00:21:30,690 --> 00:21:33,280
In doing so he hoped to reduce the dangers
339
00:21:33,280 --> 00:21:35,193
of drowning whilst swimming.
340
00:21:37,620 --> 00:21:40,730
But even if you haven't
read the professor's book
341
00:21:40,730 --> 00:21:44,580
we all know it's safest
to swim accompanied.
342
00:21:44,580 --> 00:21:47,200
Judging by the numbers
here, there's nothing
343
00:21:47,200 --> 00:21:48,653
to worry about today.
344
00:21:50,560 --> 00:21:52,750
Traditionally the community pools
345
00:21:52,750 --> 00:21:55,180
are built alongside the waterways,
346
00:21:55,180 --> 00:21:57,113
this instance the River Main.
347
00:21:58,350 --> 00:22:02,060
It winds its way for 574 kilometers
348
00:22:02,060 --> 00:22:06,030
from Mainz to Bamberg, and
has played a vital role
349
00:22:06,030 --> 00:22:09,453
in trade and fishing in
the three states it serves.
350
00:22:13,330 --> 00:22:16,010
The Main River is seen as a dividing line
351
00:22:16,010 --> 00:22:18,363
between northern and southern Germany.
352
00:22:19,330 --> 00:22:21,940
Leisure cruises offer fascinating trips
353
00:22:21,940 --> 00:22:24,053
through these historic heartlands.
354
00:22:27,560 --> 00:22:30,570
Off the beaten path, but
not far from the river
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00:22:30,570 --> 00:22:34,560
is Weitzschenhain Castle,
built in the 18th Century
356
00:22:34,560 --> 00:22:36,813
for the Prince Bishops of Wurzburg.
357
00:22:38,610 --> 00:22:41,210
Perhaps more famous than the castle itself
358
00:22:41,210 --> 00:22:44,830
are the lavish gardens
containing a man made lake,
359
00:22:44,830 --> 00:22:47,053
and fountain as a centerpiece.
360
00:22:48,310 --> 00:22:50,610
They were designed
according to the principles
361
00:22:50,610 --> 00:22:52,423
of the French rococo style.
362
00:22:53,750 --> 00:22:56,853
It's one of few such
examples in all of Germany.
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00:23:00,730 --> 00:23:03,550
The grounds were restored
to their former glory
364
00:23:03,550 --> 00:23:04,923
in the 1950s.
365
00:23:05,790 --> 00:23:08,660
They're now looked after by
the Bavarian State College
366
00:23:08,660 --> 00:23:12,180
for Wines and Gardens, which
was founded on this site
367
00:23:12,180 --> 00:23:17,063
in 1902 as the Royal School
of Gardening and Wine Culture.
368
00:23:21,110 --> 00:23:25,610
Heading east we pass the 17th
Century Furbroch Sanctuary.
369
00:23:25,610 --> 00:23:28,090
It's cared for by Augustinian monks
370
00:23:28,090 --> 00:23:30,453
and is a popular site of pilgrimage.
371
00:23:34,520 --> 00:23:37,680
Rejoining the River Main
takes us to Bamberg,
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00:23:37,680 --> 00:23:39,453
the last stop on our journey.
373
00:23:40,510 --> 00:23:44,090
Here on the outskirts is
the city's inland harbor,
374
00:23:44,090 --> 00:23:46,090
an industrial and commercial center
375
00:23:46,090 --> 00:23:48,590
for textiles, electrical equipment,
376
00:23:48,590 --> 00:23:49,883
and heavy machinery.
377
00:23:52,260 --> 00:23:55,280
The docks have long
been vital to the region
378
00:23:55,280 --> 00:23:57,490
since it's part of a waterway system
379
00:23:57,490 --> 00:24:00,443
that connects the Black
Sea to the North Sea.
380
00:24:05,310 --> 00:24:09,393
Beyond the harbor is the
historic town of Bamberg itself.
381
00:24:10,830 --> 00:24:12,650
Pretty as a picture postcard
382
00:24:12,650 --> 00:24:15,170
having been left relatively unscathed
383
00:24:15,170 --> 00:24:16,943
by Germany's tumultuous past.
384
00:24:22,730 --> 00:24:25,110
It's maintained at least one good example
385
00:24:25,110 --> 00:24:27,680
of every European architectural style
386
00:24:27,680 --> 00:24:29,350
from the Romanesque onward,
387
00:24:29,350 --> 00:24:31,863
without losing its medieval charm.
388
00:24:35,400 --> 00:24:39,410
The meandering river, lined
with old half timbered houses,
389
00:24:39,410 --> 00:24:41,700
hearkens back to a simpler time
390
00:24:41,700 --> 00:24:44,960
when Bamberg was a small independent state
391
00:24:44,960 --> 00:24:47,303
ruled by an elected Prince Bishop.
392
00:24:48,740 --> 00:24:52,910
A short walk through orchards
leads to Michaelsberg Abbey,
393
00:24:52,910 --> 00:24:55,800
now a retirement community.
394
00:24:55,800 --> 00:24:59,690
Its baroque church is
dedicated to St. Michael.
395
00:24:59,690 --> 00:25:02,610
The building was damaged
by an earthquake and fire
396
00:25:02,610 --> 00:25:05,660
in earlier times, but was fully restored
397
00:25:05,660 --> 00:25:08,183
and is still in use for worship today.
398
00:25:09,730 --> 00:25:13,100
And finally, we come to
the city's beloved landmark
399
00:25:13,100 --> 00:25:17,453
and UNESCO World Heritage
Site, Bamberg Cathedral.
400
00:25:18,670 --> 00:25:21,650
With its four towers
dominating the skyline
401
00:25:21,650 --> 00:25:25,140
it's an exquisite monument
to late Romanesque
402
00:25:25,140 --> 00:25:27,193
and early Gothic architecture.
403
00:25:28,390 --> 00:25:31,813
A splendid place to end this journey.
404
00:25:33,689 --> 00:25:36,189
(light music)
32684
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