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(uplifting music)
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- Our journey
begins in northern Spain,
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charting a path across the fertile plains
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of the province of Castile and Leon,
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at the rugged landscape
and medieval villages
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of the Obarenes Mountains.
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We arrive at the vibrant city of Bilbao,
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capital of the Basque Country.
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Then it's on to some of Spain's
most beautiful costal vistas
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and the harbor town of Mundaka.
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Following the Basque shoreline,
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our route takes us to
the port of Santander,
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before heading into the Picos
de Europa National Park,
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one of Europe's most
impressive mountain ranges.
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We complete our journey at
the famed shrine and basilica
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of Our Lady of Covadonga.
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Rising from the plains of
the Castile and Leon region
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are the Obarenes Mountains,
a designated natural park.
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Stretching some 30 kilometers,
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it's a vivid and beautiful landscape
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of wide valleys, steep gorges,
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and ancient Jurassic era rock formations.
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A planned highway through the zone
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was prevented in 2010 by activists
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desperate to protect
its unique biodiversity.
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Valleys such as this
are covered by forests
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rich with flora and fauna,
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while small villages are lightly scattered
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across the larger landscape,
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forming a tiny human population
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no greater than 35 people
per square kilometer.
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Deep and jagged gorges
have been carved out
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by ancient rivers over time,
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but they're now utilized as
the perfect route for roads.
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Driving along these
canyons provides a chance
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to see some of the
area's distinct wildlife.
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The rocks housing rare birds of prey,
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such as the magnificent Bonelli eagle.
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In more ancient times, such an
unfriendly looking landscape
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was the perfect location for
defense against attackers.
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Emerging from the canyon,
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we arrive at the medieval town of Frias.
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The settlement sits high
on a rock escarpment
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above the river Ebro.
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It owes its original to Alfonso VIII,
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who in the early 12th century saw it
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as the ideal location for
the purposes of protecting
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and repopulating the
edge of the old Castile.
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Looming over the medieval
town is Frias Castle,
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the original home of the duke of Frias.
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It's a striking reminder of
medieval power and defense
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with its formidable walls
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and pointed crenelated battlements.
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The high overseeing tower and keep
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was designed to be
completely self contained,
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with even its own water supply.
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To this day, the castle gate
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remains the only entrance to the town.
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At the far opposite end of the rock
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sits another of Frias's famous landmarks,
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the Church of Sir Vincent the Martyr.
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Originally Romanesque,
this beautiful building
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now shows traces of many eras.
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Medieval, baroque, and more modern.
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It maintained much of its
original appearance until 1904.
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The old tower collapsed and
the original frontispiece
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was sold to the Cloisters
Museum in New York City,
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but its restoration
has returned the church
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to much of its original glory.
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It continues to attract many visitors
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who travel far to see its collection
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of highly important religious paintings.
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Below the town on the river Ebro
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can be found Frias's third landmark,
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the renowned Roman and medieval bridge.
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It's considered to be one of
the finest examples of its kind
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in the whole of Spain.
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143 meters long and three
and a half meters wide,
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it consists of nine arches,
with a prominent central tower,
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built in the middle ages.
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Hidden from view is the
tower's interior dome,
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with a painted image of the Virgin Mary.
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It can be seen as you pass underneath.
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Beyond Frias is the magnificent wilderness
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of the Valderejo Park.
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Taking in some 35 square kilometers,
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these mountains make up a geological fold
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in the earth's crust
known as an anticline.
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In places the formation
has split and sheered,
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creating these severe limestone faces.
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The park displays a complex
and diverse ecosystem.
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Hot, dry, Mediterranean
summers combine with
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heavy Atlantic snowfall in winter.
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The result is a wealth of species
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typical of both these
seasonal extremities,
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an evergreen woodland of oaks,
pinewoods, and beech trees,
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large mammals such as
roe deer and wild boar,
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and a variety of rock
presiding birds of prey,
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such as a sizeable colony
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of the famed Basque griffin vulture.
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Across this wild natural landscape
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are dotted a selection
of small pretty villages,
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including the communities
of Boveda and Valluerca,
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settlements that date
back to pre-Roman times.
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Indeed, moving through
this dramatic terrain
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is to truly feel a visceral
connection to an ancient past.
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The swirling lines of the
limestone tangibly capturing
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the shifting history of
the Spanish landscape.
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The Valderejo Park and the
Valdegovia Province beyond
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provide an astonishing glimpse
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into the creation of northern Spain.
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Its landscape, in many areas,
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still very much untouched by humanity.
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Plunging cliff lines
and dangerous ravines,
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forests teeming with wildlife.
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It's a paradise for nature
lovers and a true wilderness.
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Yet, it's only miles from one of Spain's
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most famous metropolitan centers.
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Traveling north and dropping down
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toward the Bay of Biscay, we
arrive at the coastal city
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and capital of the autonomous community
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of the Basque Country, Bilbao.
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This is the fifth largest
urban center in Spain,
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but it's best known internationally
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as the home of the world
famous Guggenheim Museum.
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Sitting on the waterfront
of the Nervion River,
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its eye popping design was created by
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the visionary Canadian
architect Frank Gehry.
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This is one of the greatest
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architectural attractions on earth.
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It houses an extensive collection
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of the world's finest
contemporary painting,
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photography, and sculpture.
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00:09:13,810 --> 00:09:16,210
Giving visitors a taste of what's to come,
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you are greeted by Jeff Koons's Puppy,
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a momentous statue made
entirely of flowers.
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But it's the building itself
that remains the biggest draw,
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and it's not difficult to see why.
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Instructed by the Guggenheim Foundation
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to create something daring and innovative,
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Gehry purposefully aimed
for a mind bending vision
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of abstract shapes and
reflective metal surfaces.
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The museum was opened in 1997
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as part of a citywide
revitalization effort.
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The effect was almost instantaneous.
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Within three year almost
four million people
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had visited, generating over
$650 million of revenue.
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It continues to be a magnet
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for culture lovers the world over.
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But the result in this
staggering increase in visitors
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was an urgent need to revitalize
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Bilbao's transport infrastructure.
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This is the gleaming new
terminal at Bilbao Airport,
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as designed by Santiago Calatrava.
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It opened at the turn of the millennium
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to deal with the increased
influx of tourists,
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reaching a peach of over four
million passengers in 2011.
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Many holiday makers make
their way to the nearby
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Urdaibai estuary that looks
over the Bay of Biscay.
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Here, towns like Sukarrieta are noted
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for their medieval fishing
houses and harbor sides.
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Its neighbor, Mundaka, is said to be
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the most ancient town of
its kind in the province,
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the place where a
refugee Scottish princess
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gave birth to the first lord of Biscay.
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But, curiously, the town is now best known
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as a world renowned surfing spot
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for a unique wave known
eponymously as the Mundaka.
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We take in the full rugged
beauty of the Basque coastline,
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typically scattered
with mountainous forests
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and historic villages.
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Secretly tucked away in
the base of this cliff
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is Elantxobe, a perfect example
of a Basque fishing village
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nestled within this peaceful inlet.
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Sheltered from storms, it's an
ideal location for a harbor,
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its houses creeping up
the steep coastline.
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Just off the coast, a customs
boat patrols these water
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that are so much part of Basque identity.
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In fact, for hundreds of years
this tiny nation of people
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dominated the world whaling trade.
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The French explorer, Samuel de Champlain,
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when writing about Basque whalers,
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described them as the
cleverest men at this fishing,
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and their methods became the benchmark
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for others around the world.
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Though whaling petered
out by the 19th century,
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today the Basque century still boasts
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one of the fishery sectors in Spain.
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The pride attached to its maritime history
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is as fierce as ever.
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The beaches of the Basque coast are known
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for their picturesque beauty,
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such as this example on the
edge of the Urdaibai park.
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It's no surprise that in the
summer months much of Spain
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decamps to the Bay of
Biscay for their holidays.
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Traveling further west beyond the tip
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of the Urdaibai estuary,
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we arrive at the larger
coastal town of Bermeo,
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the most important fishing
port of the Basque Country.
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Here on the water in the
old medieval harbor side
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can be seen the traditional 17th century
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Aita Guria whaleboat, which
stands as a local symbol
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of the region's maritime supremacy.
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Spreading back from the water
is the beautiful old town,
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its long history dating back
to its founding in 1236.
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It hosts a museum to
the region's fishermen,
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and visitors can explore
further by wandering
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into a local restaurant to
experience Basque cuisine
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that's considered to be like no other.
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Not surprisingly, fresh fish
is almost always on the menu.
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Soaring west over this peninsula,
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we arrive at one of the secret
jewels of the Basque coast,
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the tiny island and chapel
of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe.
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The chapel, dedicated to John the Baptist,
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00:14:27,380 --> 00:14:30,803
is reached by a precarious
cliff path and bridge.
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If you are brave enough
to complete the journey,
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legend has it that you must ring
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the church bell three
times and make a wish.
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The chapel may need your good wishes,
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as over the years it's been burnt down
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and been rebuilt several
times since the 9th century.
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00:14:57,350 --> 00:15:00,870
Moving further west, back
in the direction of Bilbao,
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the coast is scattered with
small fishing communities.
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These towns and villages tucked into
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the typically rugged Basque geography
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have seen a severe
decline in their economy
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over the past few decades,
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and now most of them are
almost fully reliant on tourism
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to keep them afloat all year round.
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00:15:26,060 --> 00:15:29,790
Indeed, Spaniards as well
as international tourists
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flock to their beautiful
inlets and harbors,
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00:15:32,880 --> 00:15:36,610
historic riverside town
centers, and marinas,
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00:15:36,610 --> 00:15:39,723
and wide crescent shaped sandy beaches.
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00:15:45,700 --> 00:15:48,423
In the distance ahead, we can see Getxo.
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It's actually a district
of Greater Bilbao,
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and makes up an affluent
residential community
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of the wider urban network.
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The port itself is the largest in Spain.
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00:16:10,740 --> 00:16:13,570
Where the harbor reaches
out into the Bay of Biscay,
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00:16:13,570 --> 00:16:17,150
the mouth of the Bilbao estuary
serves as a holding zone
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00:16:17,150 --> 00:16:19,943
for a large variety of
international shipping.
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00:16:21,760 --> 00:16:24,870
Tankers predominate,
but many cruise liners
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00:16:24,870 --> 00:16:29,283
also now dock at Getxo for
access to the Guggenheim Museum.
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00:16:34,010 --> 00:16:36,040
The Basque Country and its coastline
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00:16:36,040 --> 00:16:39,763
is a vividly different landscape
from other parts of Spain.
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00:16:42,410 --> 00:16:46,403
It has an almost Celtic
feel, mythic and ancient.
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00:16:48,780 --> 00:16:52,010
Roads and pods creep around craggy bluffs,
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00:16:52,010 --> 00:16:54,090
revealing hidden villages.
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00:16:54,090 --> 00:16:58,160
The cliff line soars up,
then tumbles down suddenly,
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00:16:58,160 --> 00:17:01,693
exposing verdant valleys
and rolling pastures.
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00:17:06,300 --> 00:17:09,810
Further west, we cross
the border into Cantabria,
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00:17:09,810 --> 00:17:12,423
and the wide waters of the river Treto.
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00:17:14,340 --> 00:17:17,520
The seaside communities
of Santona and Laredo
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00:17:17,520 --> 00:17:19,643
perch on the edge of the estuary.
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00:17:21,680 --> 00:17:24,300
But the river is framed by the beautiful
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00:17:24,300 --> 00:17:26,290
Santona Victoria marshlands,
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00:17:26,290 --> 00:17:30,383
and there's oddly anomalous
mini mountain Monte Buciero.
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00:17:31,340 --> 00:17:35,020
The area as a whole is
almost appropriately known
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00:17:35,020 --> 00:17:37,273
as the Joyel Natural Park.
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00:17:41,610 --> 00:17:43,440
Over the Cantabrian hills,
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00:17:43,440 --> 00:17:47,623
the land drops down into the
expansive Bay of Santander.
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00:17:50,180 --> 00:17:53,730
On the eastern pinnacle sits
the popular surfing community
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00:17:53,730 --> 00:17:58,460
of Somo, notable for its
extraordinary long sandy spit
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00:17:58,460 --> 00:18:00,693
that crawls out into the sea.
265
00:18:09,990 --> 00:18:12,320
On the western side across from the beach
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00:18:12,320 --> 00:18:15,730
sits the bustling port city of Santander,
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00:18:15,730 --> 00:18:17,643
capital of Cantabria.
268
00:18:19,200 --> 00:18:22,310
With a population of just under 200,000,
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00:18:22,310 --> 00:18:26,150
it's a moderately sized but
exiting metropolitan city,
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00:18:26,150 --> 00:18:28,933
and one steeped in culture and history.
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00:18:32,950 --> 00:18:34,740
The city's position on the water
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00:18:34,740 --> 00:18:38,730
is crowned by the stunning
Magdalena peninsula.
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00:18:38,730 --> 00:18:42,420
At the highest point of its
28 hectare landscape park
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00:18:42,420 --> 00:18:46,110
sits the royal palace, the
magnificent summer residence
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00:18:46,110 --> 00:18:47,833
for the Spanish royal family.
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00:18:51,450 --> 00:18:54,300
Beyond the point, standing
alone at the gateway
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00:18:54,300 --> 00:18:57,310
to the Bay of Santander is Mouro Island
278
00:18:57,310 --> 00:19:01,510
and its lighthouse, the first
of two of the city's beacons
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00:19:01,510 --> 00:19:03,710
providing safe passage for shipping,
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00:19:03,710 --> 00:19:05,523
finding their way to port.
281
00:19:08,980 --> 00:19:13,410
Further west sits the second,
Cabo Mayor Lighthouse,
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00:19:13,410 --> 00:19:17,023
situated precariously on
the edge of a rocky cliff.
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00:19:24,490 --> 00:19:27,063
Our route now takes us inland.
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00:19:28,800 --> 00:19:30,880
Deep in the Cantabrian countryside
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00:19:30,880 --> 00:19:33,490
we arrive at the historic
Romanesque village
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00:19:33,490 --> 00:19:35,533
of Santillana del Mar.
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00:19:39,540 --> 00:19:42,880
It's famous for its
central Collegiate Church,
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00:19:42,880 --> 00:19:45,230
which has its origins in a monastery
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00:19:45,230 --> 00:19:47,393
dating from the year 870.
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00:19:48,850 --> 00:19:51,440
It was transformed in the 12th century
291
00:19:51,440 --> 00:19:53,303
into the building we see today.
292
00:19:56,060 --> 00:19:58,810
This fine example of
Romanesque architecture
293
00:19:58,810 --> 00:20:01,340
is dedicated to Saint Juliana,
294
00:20:01,340 --> 00:20:03,010
who is believed to have been martyred
295
00:20:03,010 --> 00:20:05,510
in Turkey in the 3rd century.
296
00:20:05,510 --> 00:20:09,113
Her remains were brought
here some 600 years later.
297
00:20:14,020 --> 00:20:17,300
Further south and west
loom the dramatic mountains
298
00:20:17,300 --> 00:20:20,403
of the Picos de Europa National Park.
299
00:20:21,340 --> 00:20:24,600
Considered to be such an
ecologically precious wilderness,
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00:20:24,600 --> 00:20:26,760
the Spanish government have issues a ban
301
00:20:26,760 --> 00:20:29,900
on all aircraft, including military,
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00:20:29,900 --> 00:20:31,950
flying over the park.
303
00:20:31,950 --> 00:20:35,513
So, we have to go 'round
the edges to look in.
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00:20:36,900 --> 00:20:40,747
The Picos de Europa
translates literally as
305
00:20:40,747 --> 00:20:44,180
"the peaks of Europe," so named
as they were thought to be
306
00:20:44,180 --> 00:20:46,700
the first site of the European continent
307
00:20:46,700 --> 00:20:49,023
for ships arriving from the Americas.
308
00:20:50,200 --> 00:20:54,100
They're truly momentous,
with viciously steep terrains
309
00:20:54,100 --> 00:20:57,323
reaching up to over 2,500 meters.
310
00:21:04,720 --> 00:21:07,070
Here at the confluence of four valleys
311
00:21:07,070 --> 00:21:10,600
near where the river Quiviesa
Flows into the river Deva
312
00:21:10,600 --> 00:21:12,773
sits the town of Potes.
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00:21:14,890 --> 00:21:16,880
This medieval mountain community
314
00:21:16,880 --> 00:21:20,480
is known for its maze-like
historic old town,
315
00:21:20,480 --> 00:21:22,600
as well as its three bridges.
316
00:21:22,600 --> 00:21:24,980
The most famous of which is this,
317
00:21:24,980 --> 00:21:28,223
the 13th century bridge of San Cayetano.
318
00:21:29,330 --> 00:21:32,780
The rambling charm of this
place is due to its position,
319
00:21:32,780 --> 00:21:35,180
the buildings and bridges shaped around
320
00:21:35,180 --> 00:21:37,253
the tumbling rivers and valleys.
321
00:21:38,260 --> 00:21:40,560
Scattered amidst the historic center
322
00:21:40,560 --> 00:21:43,140
are many small architectural jewels.
323
00:21:43,140 --> 00:21:46,663
For example, this perfectly
formed stone footbridge.
324
00:21:48,440 --> 00:21:52,600
Or here, in the heart of the
town, the Torre del Infantado,
325
00:21:52,600 --> 00:21:55,860
an imposing keep built
in the 15th century,
326
00:21:55,860 --> 00:21:59,063
but now used as the home
of the city council.
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00:22:01,660 --> 00:22:05,620
Like us, many tourists
make a brief visit to Potes
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00:22:05,620 --> 00:22:09,473
before plunging back into the
wilds of the Picos mountains.
329
00:22:15,340 --> 00:22:18,150
Skirting along the
eastern edge of the range,
330
00:22:18,150 --> 00:22:21,730
this magnificent wilderness
is only now and again
331
00:22:21,730 --> 00:22:26,093
punctuated by remote villages,
such as here at Cabanes.
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00:22:29,830 --> 00:22:33,660
Almost all of the rock in
the Picos is limestone,
333
00:22:33,660 --> 00:22:36,580
and glacial action has
contributed to create
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00:22:36,580 --> 00:22:40,700
an impressive area of
alpine cost topography,
335
00:22:40,700 --> 00:22:43,880
the geological term for
the noticeably ravaged
336
00:22:43,880 --> 00:22:46,863
and dissolved quality of the exposed rock.
337
00:22:49,570 --> 00:22:52,440
It should be of no
surprise that such stunning
338
00:22:52,440 --> 00:22:55,050
and mythical landscape is also home
339
00:22:55,050 --> 00:22:57,580
to some extraordinary animal life.
340
00:22:57,580 --> 00:23:00,740
Chamois and wolves still roam the hills,
341
00:23:00,740 --> 00:23:03,290
whilst the vaulting skies are filled with
342
00:23:03,290 --> 00:23:05,883
buzzards, eagles, and vultures.
343
00:23:07,960 --> 00:23:10,940
As to human life, the area attracts many
344
00:23:10,940 --> 00:23:14,120
devoted mountaineers,
climbers, and trackers,
345
00:23:14,120 --> 00:23:16,643
keen to tackle the high peaks.
346
00:23:31,010 --> 00:23:34,820
To travel through the
Picos de Europa from above
347
00:23:34,820 --> 00:23:37,943
is to encounter a
breathtaking raw majesty.
348
00:23:40,590 --> 00:23:44,713
Here you can truly feel you're
moving through the heavens,
349
00:23:45,840 --> 00:23:48,520
following the tips of the
peaks that take you up
350
00:23:48,520 --> 00:23:50,443
into the cloud line and beyond.
351
00:24:00,400 --> 00:24:02,900
These splendid views take us across
352
00:24:02,900 --> 00:24:04,710
the northern border of the park,
353
00:24:04,710 --> 00:24:07,430
where our journey comes to an end
354
00:24:07,430 --> 00:24:10,240
as we arrive at our final destination,
355
00:24:10,240 --> 00:24:13,903
the shrine and basilica
of Our Lady of Covadonga.
356
00:24:17,360 --> 00:24:19,690
What we see here today was built around
357
00:24:19,690 --> 00:24:21,433
the turn of the 20th century,
358
00:24:22,480 --> 00:24:26,040
but Covadonga has been a
site of Catholic pilgrimage
359
00:24:26,040 --> 00:24:28,043
for over 1,000 years.
360
00:24:29,310 --> 00:24:32,680
Legend has it that in the year 722
361
00:24:32,680 --> 00:24:35,970
the Spanish nobleman Pelayo
defeated the invading
362
00:24:35,970 --> 00:24:39,843
Arab forces at a last stand at Covadonga.
363
00:24:42,280 --> 00:24:46,000
According to tradition,
Pelayo retreated to a cave
364
00:24:46,000 --> 00:24:49,700
where a hermit kept a secret
statue of the Virgin Mary,
365
00:24:49,700 --> 00:24:52,093
saved from the Muslim conquest.
366
00:24:53,250 --> 00:24:55,560
Pelayo prayed to the Virgin for victory,
367
00:24:55,560 --> 00:24:59,053
and in the subsequent battle
the Moors were defeated.
368
00:25:00,050 --> 00:25:02,830
This triumph is considered to be the first
369
00:25:02,830 --> 00:25:05,653
of the Christian reconquests of Spain.
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00:25:07,110 --> 00:25:09,960
To this day, Catholics
from around the world
371
00:25:09,960 --> 00:25:12,620
come to visit the shrine
of the Virgin Mary
372
00:25:12,620 --> 00:25:16,460
here in Covadonga, and
celebrate the reestablishment
373
00:25:16,460 --> 00:25:18,593
of this country as Christian.
374
00:25:20,450 --> 00:25:23,630
This is the historic heart of the nation,
375
00:25:23,630 --> 00:25:27,023
and it's what gave rise to the
modern Spain we know today.
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00:25:28,920 --> 00:25:31,453
A perfect place to end this journey.
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00:25:33,510 --> 00:25:36,343
(uplifting music)
30810
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