Original subtitles

(uplifting music)

- Our journey begins in northern Spain,

charting a path across the fertile plains

of the province of Castile and Leon,

at the rugged landscape and medieval villages

of the Obarenes Mountains.

We arrive at the vibrant city of Bilbao,

capital of the Basque Country.

Then it's on to some of Spain's most beautiful costal vistas

and the harbor town of Mundaka.

Following the Basque shoreline,

our route takes us to the port of Santander,

before heading into the Picos de Europa National Park,

one of Europe's most impressive mountain ranges.

We complete our journey at the famed shrine and basilica

of Our Lady of Covadonga.

Rising from the plains of the Castile and Leon region

are the Obarenes Mountains, a designated natural park.

Stretching some 30 kilometers,

it's a vivid and beautiful landscape

of wide valleys, steep gorges,

and ancient Jurassic era rock formations.

A planned highway through the zone

was prevented in 2010 by activists

desperate to protect its unique biodiversity.

Valleys such as this are covered by forests

rich with flora and fauna,

while small villages are lightly scattered

across the larger landscape,

forming a tiny human population

no greater than 35 people per square kilometer.

Deep and jagged gorges have been carved out

by ancient rivers over time,

but they're now utilized as the perfect route for roads.

Driving along these canyons provides a chance

to see some of the area's distinct wildlife.

The rocks housing rare birds of prey,

such as the magnificent Bonelli eagle.

In more ancient times, such an unfriendly looking landscape

was the perfect location for defense against attackers.

Emerging from the canyon,

we arrive at the medieval town of Frias.

The settlement sits high on a rock escarpment

above the river Ebro.

It owes its original to Alfonso VIII,

who in the early 12th century saw it

as the ideal location for the purposes of protecting

and repopulating the edge of the old Castile.

Looming over the medieval town is Frias Castle,

the original home of the duke of Frias.

It's a striking reminder of medieval power and defense

with its formidable walls

and pointed crenelated battlements.

The high overseeing tower and keep

was designed to be completely self contained,

with even its own water supply.

To this day, the castle gate

remains the only entrance to the town.

At the far opposite end of the rock

sits another of Frias's famous landmarks,

the Church of Sir Vincent the Martyr.

Originally Romanesque, this beautiful building

now shows traces of many eras.

Medieval, baroque, and more modern.

It maintained much of its original appearance until 1904.

The old tower collapsed and the original frontispiece

was sold to the Cloisters Museum in New York City,

but its restoration has returned the church

to much of its original glory.

It continues to attract many visitors

who travel far to see its collection

of highly important religious paintings.

Below the town on the river Ebro

can be found Frias's third landmark,

the renowned Roman and medieval bridge.

It's considered to be one of the finest examples of its kind

in the whole of Spain.

143 meters long and three and a half meters wide,

it consists of nine arches, with a prominent central tower,

built in the middle ages.

Hidden from view is the tower's interior dome,

with a painted image of the Virgin Mary.

It can be seen as you pass underneath.

Beyond Frias is the magnificent wilderness

of the Valderejo Park.

Taking in some 35 square kilometers,

these mountains make up a geological fold

in the earth's crust known as an anticline.

In places the formation has split and sheered,

creating these severe limestone faces.

The park displays a complex and diverse ecosystem.

Hot, dry, Mediterranean summers combine with

heavy Atlantic snowfall in winter.

The result is a wealth of species

typical of both these seasonal extremities,

an evergreen woodland of oaks, pinewoods, and beech trees,

large mammals such as roe deer and wild boar,

and a variety of rock presiding birds of prey,

such as a sizeable colony

of the famed Basque griffin vulture.

Across this wild natural landscape

are dotted a selection of small pretty villages,

including the communities of Boveda and Valluerca,

settlements that date back to pre-Roman times.

Indeed, moving through this dramatic terrain

is to truly feel a visceral connection to an ancient past.

The swirling lines of the limestone tangibly capturing

the shifting history of the Spanish landscape.

The Valderejo Park and the Valdegovia Province beyond

provide an astonishing glimpse

into the creation of northern Spain.

Its landscape, in many areas,

still very much untouched by humanity.

Plunging cliff lines and dangerous ravines,

forests teeming with wildlife.

It's a paradise for nature lovers and a true wilderness.

Yet, it's only miles from one of Spain's

most famous metropolitan centers.

Traveling north and dropping down

toward the Bay of Biscay, we arrive at the coastal city

and capital of the autonomous community

of the Basque Country, Bilbao.

This is the fifth largest urban center in Spain,

but it's best known internationally

as the home of the world famous Guggenheim Museum.

Sitting on the waterfront of the Nervion River,

its eye popping design was created by

the visionary Canadian architect Frank Gehry.

This is one of the greatest

architectural attractions on earth.

It houses an extensive collection

of the world's finest contemporary painting,

photography, and sculpture.

Giving visitors a taste of what's to come,

you are greeted by Jeff Koons's Puppy,

a momentous statue made entirely of flowers.

But it's the building itself that remains the biggest draw,

and it's not difficult to see why.

Instructed by the Guggenheim Foundation

to create something daring and innovative,

Gehry purposefully aimed for a mind bending vision

of abstract shapes and reflective metal surfaces.

The museum was opened in 1997

as part of a citywide revitalization effort.

The effect was almost instantaneous.

Within three year almost four million people

had visited, generating over $650 million of revenue.

It continues to be a magnet

for culture lovers the world over.

But the result in this staggering increase in visitors

was an urgent need to revitalize

Bilbao's transport infrastructure.

This is the gleaming new terminal at Bilbao Airport,

as designed by Santiago Calatrava.

It opened at the turn of the millennium

to deal with the increased influx of tourists,

reaching a peach of over four million passengers in 2011.

Many holiday makers make their way to the nearby

Urdaibai estuary that looks over the Bay of Biscay.

Here, towns like Sukarrieta are noted

for their medieval fishing houses and harbor sides.

Its neighbor, Mundaka, is said to be

the most ancient town of its kind in the province,

the place where a refugee Scottish princess

gave birth to the first lord of Biscay.

But, curiously, the town is now best known

as a world renowned surfing spot

for a unique wave known eponymously as the Mundaka.

We take in the full rugged beauty of the Basque coastline,

typically scattered with mountainous forests

and historic villages.

Secretly tucked away in the base of this cliff

is Elantxobe, a perfect example of a Basque fishing village

nestled within this peaceful inlet.

Sheltered from storms, it's an ideal location for a harbor,

its houses creeping up the steep coastline.

Just off the coast, a customs boat patrols these water

that are so much part of Basque identity.

In fact, for hundreds of years this tiny nation of people

dominated the world whaling trade.

The French explorer, Samuel de Champlain,

when writing about Basque whalers,

described them as the cleverest men at this fishing,

and their methods became the benchmark

for others around the world.

Though whaling petered out by the 19th century,

today the Basque century still boasts

one of the fishery sectors in Spain.

The pride attached to its maritime history

is as fierce as ever.

The beaches of the Basque coast are known

for their picturesque beauty,

such as this example on the edge of the Urdaibai park.

It's no surprise that in the summer months much of Spain

decamps to the Bay of Biscay for their holidays.

Traveling further west beyond the tip

of the Urdaibai estuary,

we arrive at the larger coastal town of Bermeo,

the most important fishing port of the Basque Country.

Here on the water in the old medieval harbor side

can be seen the traditional 17th century

Aita Guria whaleboat, which stands as a local symbol

of the region's maritime supremacy.

Spreading back from the water is the beautiful old town,

its long history dating back to its founding in 1236.

It hosts a museum to the region's fishermen,

and visitors can explore further by wandering

into a local restaurant to experience Basque cuisine

that's considered to be like no other.

Not surprisingly, fresh fish is almost always on the menu.

Soaring west over this peninsula,

we arrive at one of the secret jewels of the Basque coast,

the tiny island and chapel of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe.

The chapel, dedicated to John the Baptist,

is reached by a precarious cliff path and bridge.

If you are brave enough to complete the journey,

legend has it that you must ring

the church bell three times and make a wish.

The chapel may need your good wishes,

as over the years it's been burnt down

and been rebuilt several times since the 9th century.

Moving further west, back in the direction of Bilbao,

the coast is scattered with small fishing communities.

These towns and villages tucked into

the typically rugged Basque geography

have seen a severe decline in their economy

over the past few decades,

and now most of them are almost fully reliant on tourism

to keep them afloat all year round.

Indeed, Spaniards as well as international tourists

flock to their beautiful inlets and harbors,

historic riverside town centers, and marinas,

and wide crescent shaped sandy beaches.

In the distance ahead, we can see Getxo.

It's actually a district of Greater Bilbao,

and makes up an affluent residential community

of the wider urban network.

The port itself is the largest in Spain.

Where the harbor reaches out into the Bay of Biscay,

the mouth of the Bilbao estuary serves as a holding zone

for a large variety of international shipping.

Tankers predominate, but many cruise liners

also now dock at Getxo for access to the Guggenheim Museum.

The Basque Country and its coastline

is a vividly different landscape from other parts of Spain.

It has an almost Celtic feel, mythic and ancient.

Roads and pods creep around craggy bluffs,

revealing hidden villages.

The cliff line soars up, then tumbles down suddenly,

exposing verdant valleys and rolling pastures.

Further west, we cross the border into Cantabria,

and the wide waters of the river Treto.

The seaside communities of Santona and Laredo

perch on the edge of the estuary.

But the river is framed by the beautiful

Santona Victoria marshlands,

and there's oddly anomalous mini mountain Monte Buciero.

The area as a whole is almost appropriately known

as the Joyel Natural Park.

Over the Cantabrian hills,

the land drops down into the expansive Bay of Santander.

On the eastern pinnacle sits the popular surfing community

of Somo, notable for its extraordinary long sandy spit

that crawls out into the sea.

On the western side across from the beach

sits the bustling port city of Santander,

capital of Cantabria.

With a population of just under 200,000,

it's a moderately sized but exiting metropolitan city,

and one steeped in culture and history.

The city's position on the water

is crowned by the stunning Magdalena peninsula.

At the highest point of its 28 hectare landscape park

sits the royal palace, the magnificent summer residence

for the Spanish royal family.

Beyond the point, standing alone at the gateway

to the Bay of Santander is Mouro Island

and its lighthouse, the first of two of the city's beacons

providing safe passage for shipping,

finding their way to port.

Further west sits the second, Cabo Mayor Lighthouse,

situated precariously on the edge of a rocky cliff.

Our route now takes us inland.

Deep in the Cantabrian countryside

we arrive at the historic Romanesque village

of Santillana del Mar.

It's famous for its central Collegiate Church,

which has its origins in a monastery

dating from the year 870.

It was transformed in the 12th century

into the building we see today.

This fine example of Romanesque architecture

is dedicated to Saint Juliana,

who is believed to have been martyred

in Turkey in the 3rd century.

Her remains were brought here some 600 years later.

Further south and west loom the dramatic mountains

of the Picos de Europa National Park.

Considered to be such an ecologically precious wilderness,

the Spanish government have issues a ban

on all aircraft, including military,

flying over the park.

So, we have to go 'round the edges to look in.

The Picos de Europa translates literally as

"the peaks of Europe," so named as they were thought to be

the first site of the European continent

for ships arriving from the Americas.

They're truly momentous, with viciously steep terrains

reaching up to over 2,500 meters.

Here at the confluence of four valleys

near where the river Quiviesa Flows into the river Deva

sits the town of Potes.

This medieval mountain community

is known for its maze-like historic old town,

as well as its three bridges.

The most famous of which is this,

the 13th century bridge of San Cayetano.

The rambling charm of this place is due to its position,

the buildings and bridges shaped around

the tumbling rivers and valleys.

Scattered amidst the historic center

are many small architectural jewels.

For example, this perfectly formed stone footbridge.

Or here, in the heart of the town, the Torre del Infantado,

an imposing keep built in the 15th century,

but now used as the home of the city council.

Like us, many tourists make a brief visit to Potes

before plunging back into the wilds of the Picos mountains.

Skirting along the eastern edge of the range,

this magnificent wilderness is only now and again

punctuated by remote villages, such as here at Cabanes.

Almost all of the rock in the Picos is limestone,

and glacial action has contributed to create

an impressive area of alpine cost topography,

the geological term for the noticeably ravaged

and dissolved quality of the exposed rock.

It should be of no surprise that such stunning

and mythical landscape is also home

to some extraordinary animal life.

Chamois and wolves still roam the hills,

whilst the vaulting skies are filled with

buzzards, eagles, and vultures.

As to human life, the area attracts many

devoted mountaineers, climbers, and trackers,

keen to tackle the high peaks.

To travel through the Picos de Europa from above

is to encounter a breathtaking raw majesty.

Here you can truly feel you're moving through the heavens,

following the tips of the peaks that take you up

into the cloud line and beyond.

These splendid views take us across

the northern border of the park,

where our journey comes to an end

as we arrive at our final destination,

the shrine and basilica of Our Lady of Covadonga.

What we see here today was built around

the turn of the 20th century,

but Covadonga has been a site of Catholic pilgrimage

for over 1,000 years.

Legend has it that in the year 722

the Spanish nobleman Pelayo defeated the invading

Arab forces at a last stand at Covadonga.

According to tradition, Pelayo retreated to a cave

where a hermit kept a secret statue of the Virgin Mary,

saved from the Muslim conquest.

Pelayo prayed to the Virgin for victory,

and in the subsequent battle the Moors were defeated.

This triumph is considered to be the first

of the Christian reconquests of Spain.

To this day, Catholics from around the world

come to visit the shrine of the Virgin Mary

here in Covadonga, and celebrate the reestablishment

of this country as Christian.

This is the historic heart of the nation,

and it's what gave rise to the modern Spain we know today.

A perfect place to end this journey.

(uplifting music)