Original subtitles

(majestic music)

- Our journey begins on the northern coast of Sicily,

near the capital City of Palermo.

We then head toward the Province of Agrigento

for a tour of the greatest collection

of Greek temples outside of Athens.

Once in the Province of Enna, we take in

one of the best views in all of Sicily

before traveling east across mountains and farmland

as we make our way to Syracuse,

reputedly the most beautiful city of ancient Greece.

From there we explore the eastern shore at Taormina,

the island's top tourist destination.

We make our way to Mount Etna,

the largest and most active volcano in Europe.

Finally, we discover the coastal City of Messina,

the oldest port in Sicily.

As we speed along the runway of Palermo Airport,

we catch our first glimpse of what lies in store

for our journey.

More than four million passengers travel

down this same stretch of runway each year.

Visitors from far and wide are drawn

to the raw beauty of Sicily,

a place forged by fire which so characterizes

the spirit of this land and its people.

The appeal of the rugged mountainous terrain

and pristine beaches are matched by some

of the oldest and most beautiful cities in all of Italy.

The village of San Cipirello, a more recent addition,

was rebuilt in 1838 after being destroyed by a landslide.

Continuing south we come to the small town

that was the source of inspiration

for the most infamous crime family

to ever grace a page or screen, Corleone.

Although the Mafia family in the famed "Godfather" series

is fictional, the bitter rivalry

that once plagued this hill town was quite real.

But modern times have brought a welcome change,

marking a new, peaceful era for Corleone.

Sicily's warm Mediterranean climate

and fertile valleys have made agriculture

the cornerstone of the island's economy.

Once densely forested,

the island has been cleared over time.

Deforestation began when this region served

as the grain belt for the Roman Empire.

Situated on the southern coast is the City

of Porto Empedocle.

For more than 2,000 years it's been a vital hub

for transporting crops.

And the biggest clue as to its importance

in times past lies just inland.

One of the most breathtaking collections

of ancient Greek ruins outside of Athens,

the Valley of the Temples.

This 1,300 hectare archeological park

preserves the remains of what was once one

of the most prosperous Geek colonies in Sicily, Akragas.

Founded in 582 B.C., it underwent a magnificent period

of construction a century later

until their long-standing enemy, the Carthaginians,

destroyed the city.

Today these remains are a UNESCO World Heritage Site

and one of Sicily's main attractions.

The most prominent feature are the magnificent ruins

that overlook a ridge.

At its highest point is the temple of Juno,

around two and a half thousands years old.

In its day this was where the goddess of women

and marriage was worshiped and weddings took place.

When the Carthaginians finally stormed the city,

it was mostly likely burnt down, just leaving the stonework.

Though it was never rebuilt, it was partially restored

by a wealthy Italian prince as far back as 1787.

It's the first recorded effort

to preserve these ancient monuments for future generations.

These temples were all built in what's known

as the Doric Order, a style of architecture

that was sturdier and less fancy than later Greek designs,

but nonetheless gave the building a more commanding look.

In their prime, they would have been brightly painted

in red, gold and blue.

Amongst the ruins is the most well-preserved

Greek place of worship outside of Athens,

the Temple of Concordia, built in 430 B.C.

It retains all 34 of its original limestone columns.

Typically, the walls were made of mud bricks,

which didn't fare well over time.

But this place is an exception.

Its current state of preservation is in part due

to its conversion to a Christian basilica

at the turn of the seventh century.

The pagan idols were removed and the walls were reinforced.

The oldest of the ruins is the Temple of Hercules,

which dates to around 500 B.C.

Of the original 38 columns, eight were restored

and re-erected in the early 1920s.

The temple was dedicated to the divine hero, Hercules.

But while he was an important figure,

the greatest devotion was for the goddess of fertility

and the harvest, Demeter and Persephone.

This expansive area was set out for the worship

of these two divinities.

An intricate network of aqueducts

surrounding the site has been covered.

The channels were used to collect water for sacred rituals.

Academics believe such practices were evidence

of a society deeply rooted in agriculture.

Archeologists have also excavated an area

known today as the Hellenistic Roman Quarter.

This ancient settlement features an urban grid pattern

developed as early as the 6th century B.C.

The archeological museum, built in the 1960s,

stands next to the ruins of the Ekklesiasterion,

an amphitheater used for political meetings.

This settlement was occupied for 900 years

before the entire valley was abandoned

during the Arab incursions of the 7th century.

Once a thriving and prosperous Greek city,

today these ruins serve as a window

into Sicily's ancient past.

To the east, in the Province of Enna,

is a reminder that the history of this island

dates far beyond the ancient towns and temples of Greece.

Overlooking the rugged valleys of the central region

we find the only major city of ancient Sicily

not founded by foreign invaders.

Perched on a plateau in the middle of the island is Enna.

There's been a city here since 1200 B.C.,

but like most of Sicily, this place has been subjected

to a long series of foreign invaders,

beginning with the arrival of the Greeks around 700 B.C.

Next came the Romans, who enslaved much

of the local population.

After years of tyranny, the first great rebellion

against Rome began here in 137 B.C.,

led by a slave named Eunis.

The revolt lasted five years before Roman forces

were able to sack the city and crush the rebellion.

Today, Eunis is still hailed as a hero.

Enna's most famous landmark is also one

of the largest forts in Southern Italy,

Castillo d'Lambardia.

Built in the 13th century, only six

of its original 20 towers remain.

The most well-preserved is the Tower of Pisa,

which offers the best view in all of Sicily.

On the clearest days, all three coastlines can be seen.

After the castle lost its strategic importance,

it served as a prison until the 1930s

when it was transformed into an open air theater

called teatro piu vicino alle stelle,

the theater closer to the stars.

A variety of musical performances were held here

until it closed in 1992.

Today the castle is open to the public

and is Enna's most popular attraction.

Across the vast, desolate landscape of Central Sicily

is another relic of times past.

These are the abandoned ruins of Castle Graste.

This stretch of rocky crag has served as an outpost

since Greco-Roman times, but the fortress

was likely built during the Arab-Norman era.

The crumbling edifice is slowly being reclaimed by nature.

The arid mountains give way to the rich,

fertile plains of Central Catania.

Agriculture has expanded far beyond

the wheat fields of old.

More than 400 varieties of oranges are grown in Sicily.

Although it's big business for towns like Palagonia,

tourism is playing a growing role in Sicily's economy.

Many visitors come to explore

Orientata Pantalica Natural Park.

It was possibly considered a mystical place by the ancients

since these valleys hold around 4,000 tombs,

some dating back almost three and a half thousand years.

On Sicily's eastern shore lies Syracuse.

The Shrine of Our Lady of Tears

may be an unmistakable modern addition

to the city's skyline, but it's mix

of architectural styles represent thousands

of years of history.

Founded by the Greeks around 730 B.C.,

Syracuse prospered and soon became

the most powerful Greek city in the entire Mediterranean.

The famous Roman philosopher Cicero

described this place as the greatest

and most beautiful of all the Greek cities.

It's made up of five districts,

which have all retained their original ancient names.

The oldest of these is the tiny island of Ortigia.

Translating as island of quails,

it measures only one kilometer in length

and 500 meters at its widest point.

Because Sicily was under Spanish rule

at the height of the Renaissance,

the styles that so characterize this period

seem to have passed the island by.

After the unification of Italy in 1865,

much of the fortification walls were demolished

and a bridge connecting the island was built.

In this historic heart of Syracuse reminders

of past eras can be found at every turn.

These ruins from the 7th century B.C. are all

that remain of the Temple of Apollo,

said to be the first great Doric temple in all of Sicily.

At the southern-most tip of the island

we find evidence of Ortigia's strategic importance.

The 13th century Castello Maniace

is an excellent example of Germanic fortress design,

save for the round towers, which have retained

their original Arabic style.

Today it's one of the most visited sites in Ortigia.

Another popular spot is the Piazza Duomo,

or Cathedral Square.

The piazza's elegant semi-oval form is home

to some of the most prized architecture in Syracuse.

The Cathedral of Santa Maria delle Colonnee

features the original Doric columns

of its previous incarnation as the Temple of Athena.

After two major earthquakes in 1542 and 1693,

much of the city had to be rebuilt.

The flurry of construction gave rise to a freer,

highly-embellished Baroque style

that's now so characteristic of Sicily.

The materials used by the Greeks

to build the great City of Syracuse came

from this ancient complex of quarries.

It's estimated that some 4.7 million cubic meters

of stone were extracted from this site.

The labyrinth also served as a prison where thousands

were sentenced to hard labor mining the rock.

One of the tourist attractions here is

this 3rd century Roman amphitheater.

But the most visited ancient site in Syracuse

is the nearby Greek theater, built in the 5th century B.C.

With 59 rows and a capacity to hold 15,000 people,

it's one of the largest of its kind ever built.

It's still used today for the Greek Theater Festival,

which takes place every summer.

Ancient relics are not the only attraction

Sicily has to offer.

The island boasts more than 1,000 kilometers of beaches.

Among the most popular are these golden sands of Catania,

which stretch for more than 100 kilometers.

And perched atop a rocky seaside cliff

on the eastern shore is the picturesque village of Taormina,

the most popular tourist destination in Sicily.

Its history as a resort began with the Greek

and Roman upper classes and continued

with each new foreign invader.

By the 19th century, Taormina had been elevated

to a must-see destination on the grand tour

for fashionable English gentlemen.

With such consistent wealth over the centuries,

the city has always been spared the periods

of economic hardship suffered by other Sicilian towns.

The city remains a magnet for the rich and famous

from around the globe.

The number one site to visit in Taormina

is the ancient Greco-Roman theater.

The original was most likely built by the Greeks

in the 3rd century B.C.

It was later restructured by the Romans

and most of what we see dates from the 2nd century A.D.

It's interesting to note that reserved seating existed

even in Greek times.

The names of the most affluent residents

are still inscribed on some of the seats.

Measuring more than 100 meters in diameter,

it's the second largest ancient theater in Sicily.

The site was discovered rather humbly in 1892.

A blacksmith was digging on the top of the hill

when he hit upon some bricks.

Word quickly spread and archeologists soon arrived

to oversee the painstaking restoration project.

Today the theater hosts a prestigious annual film festival

as well as summer theatrical performances and concerts.

Taormina may have much to offer by way

of luxury resorts and ancient ruins,

but the city is undoubtedly most characterized

by its natural beauty.

The tiny island of Isola Bella, just off the shore,

offers a unique way to experience nature.

This watery path provides the island's only access by foot.

It belonged to King Ferdinand the First until 1806

when he gifted it to the City of Taormina.

But it quickly fell into private hands.

It wasn't until 1990 that the state purchased the island

to serve as a resort and nature reserve

for a variety of marine and wildlife species.

Today the Isola Bella is under the protection

of the World Wildlife Fund.

Naturally, Sicily has a deep connection with the sea.

The Strait of Messina, which separates it

from the Italian mainland, has been a vital trade route

since the ancient Greeks.

Though sailors no longer trade stories of sea monsters

and sirens from "The Odyssey," they do occasionally witness

the fata morgana, a natural mirage

that appears as a wall of water.

Today these vessels are in luck,

as it looks like clear sailing ahead,

at least for the moment.

This is the view enjoyed by legions of tourists

as they approach the runway of Reggio Calabria Airport.

Originally built for the military in 1939,

today it serves over half a million passengers each year.

Crossing the Strait of Messina,

we find this military vessel patrolling the waters.

The Italian Navy currently has more

than 60 vessels in commission.

The fleet of the Reggio Marina provides

a significant presence in the Mediterranean Sea.

As we return to the shore,

a brewing storm cloud looms overhead.

(thunder rumbling)

The rumblings of thunder add an ominous air

as we near the volcanic heart of Eastern Sicily.

Though we're careful to keep our distance

from this fearsome cumulonimbus,

it's reassuring that it's not the deadly billowing ash

that has so often darkened these skies.

Empires may rise and fall, but none has had a greater

or more profound impact on Sicily than Mount Etna.

At almost three and a half thousand meters,

it's Europe's biggest active volcano.

As we start our slow ascent along its flanks,

clouds begin to obscure the summit.

Fresh lava flow from recent eruptions

has left everything in its path utterly scorched.

Over the past decade the volcano has undergone

a period of increased activity

and now erupts several times each year.

(majestic music)

The most violent eruption in recorded history was in 1669.

3,000 people living on the slopes were suffocated

by the poisonous gases alone before the lava

and ash came bursting through.

In all, more than 20,000 people were killed.

As we get ever closer to the very top of Mount Etna,

we pass several craters that are

in themselves mini volcanoes.

Most eruptions that occur are from the east side vents,

as they're known.

They sometimes get blocked, causing the lava beneath

to build under tremendous pressure.

This leads to the violent explosive events

that can cause so much damage and loss of life.

(majestic music)

This eerie and bleak sight tells us we're close

to the summit and the main crater of Mount Etna.

What there is to be seen through the rapidly building

cloud cover shows very little signs of life,

something that has probably changed very little

in the half a million years of its existence.

But despite its awesome destructive power,

the countless generations that have lived in its shadow

have always regarded Etna with reverence.

Today it's still referred to as Mongibello,

meaning beautiful mountain.

And right now the imminent storm over the volcano

means we'll have to save our view of Etna's crater

for another time, because it's simply getting too dangerous.

We take an altogether safer place

that's also our final destination.

The port City of Messina, the gateway of Sicily.

It's been the most significant harbor in Sicily

since Greek times.

It's also the setting for Shakespeare's play,

"Much Ado About Nothing."

Messina has born more than its fair share of disasters.

Over the past three centuries the city

has endured a plague, two massive earthquakes,

and a devastating bombardment during the second World War.

It became known as the City of Ghosts

because so many people fled to safety in nearby towns.

But in true Sicilian fashion,

Messina forged ahead undaunted.

This island, born of fire, has produced a people

with a fiery spirit, a fierce vitality.

From the ashes of Mount Etna rose this ancient

and extraordinary place, a beacon of hope across the sea,

and a perfect place to end our journey.

(majestic music)