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(majestic music)
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- Our journey begins on
the northern coast of Sicily,
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near the capital City of Palermo.
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We then head toward the
Province of Agrigento
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for a tour of the greatest collection
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of Greek temples outside of Athens.
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Once in the Province of Enna, we take in
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one of the best views in all of Sicily
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before traveling east across
mountains and farmland
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as we make our way to Syracuse,
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reputedly the most beautiful
city of ancient Greece.
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From there we explore the
eastern shore at Taormina,
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the island's top tourist destination.
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We make our way to Mount Etna,
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the largest and most
active volcano in Europe.
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Finally, we discover the
coastal City of Messina,
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the oldest port in Sicily.
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As we speed along the
runway of Palermo Airport,
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we catch our first glimpse
of what lies in store
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for our journey.
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More than four million passengers travel
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down this same stretch
of runway each year.
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Visitors from far and wide are drawn
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to the raw beauty of Sicily,
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a place forged by fire
which so characterizes
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the spirit of this land and its people.
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The appeal of the rugged
mountainous terrain
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and pristine beaches are matched by some
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of the oldest and most beautiful
cities in all of Italy.
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The village of San Cipirello,
a more recent addition,
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was rebuilt in 1838 after
being destroyed by a landslide.
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Continuing south we come to the small town
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that was the source of inspiration
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for the most infamous crime family
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to ever grace a page or screen, Corleone.
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Although the Mafia family in
the famed "Godfather" series
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is fictional, the bitter rivalry
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that once plagued this
hill town was quite real.
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But modern times have
brought a welcome change,
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marking a new, peaceful era for Corleone.
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Sicily's warm Mediterranean climate
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and fertile valleys have made agriculture
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the cornerstone of the island's economy.
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Once densely forested,
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the island has been cleared over time.
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Deforestation began
when this region served
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as the grain belt for the Roman Empire.
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Situated on the southern coast is the City
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of Porto Empedocle.
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For more than 2,000 years
it's been a vital hub
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for transporting crops.
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And the biggest clue as to its importance
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in times past lies just inland.
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One of the most breathtaking collections
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of ancient Greek ruins outside of Athens,
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the Valley of the Temples.
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This 1,300 hectare archeological park
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preserves the remains of what was once one
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of the most prosperous Geek
colonies in Sicily, Akragas.
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Founded in 582 B.C., it
underwent a magnificent period
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of construction a century later
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until their long-standing
enemy, the Carthaginians,
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destroyed the city.
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Today these remains are a
UNESCO World Heritage Site
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and one of Sicily's main attractions.
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The most prominent feature
are the magnificent ruins
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that overlook a ridge.
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At its highest point
is the temple of Juno,
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around two and a half thousands years old.
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In its day this was where
the goddess of women
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and marriage was worshiped
and weddings took place.
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When the Carthaginians
finally stormed the city,
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it was mostly likely burnt down,
just leaving the stonework.
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Though it was never rebuilt,
it was partially restored
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by a wealthy Italian
prince as far back as 1787.
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It's the first recorded effort
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to preserve these ancient
monuments for future generations.
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These temples were all
built in what's known
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as the Doric Order, a
style of architecture
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that was sturdier and less
fancy than later Greek designs,
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but nonetheless gave the
building a more commanding look.
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In their prime, they would
have been brightly painted
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in red, gold and blue.
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Amongst the ruins is
the most well-preserved
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Greek place of worship outside of Athens,
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the Temple of Concordia, built in 430 B.C.
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It retains all 34 of its
original limestone columns.
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Typically, the walls
were made of mud bricks,
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which didn't fare well over time.
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But this place is an exception.
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Its current state of
preservation is in part due
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to its conversion to a Christian basilica
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at the turn of the seventh century.
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The pagan idols were removed
and the walls were reinforced.
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The oldest of the ruins
is the Temple of Hercules,
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which dates to around 500 B.C.
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Of the original 38 columns,
eight were restored
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and re-erected in the early 1920s.
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The temple was dedicated to
the divine hero, Hercules.
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But while he was an important figure,
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the greatest devotion was
for the goddess of fertility
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and the harvest, Demeter and Persephone.
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This expansive area was
set out for the worship
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of these two divinities.
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An intricate network of aqueducts
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surrounding the site has been covered.
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The channels were used to
collect water for sacred rituals.
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Academics believe such
practices were evidence
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of a society deeply rooted in agriculture.
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Archeologists have also excavated an area
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known today as the
Hellenistic Roman Quarter.
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This ancient settlement
features an urban grid pattern
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developed as early as the 6th century B.C.
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The archeological museum,
built in the 1960s,
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stands next to the ruins
of the Ekklesiasterion,
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an amphitheater used
for political meetings.
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This settlement was occupied for 900 years
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before the entire valley was abandoned
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during the Arab incursions
of the 7th century.
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Once a thriving and prosperous Greek city,
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today these ruins serve as a window
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into Sicily's ancient past.
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To the east, in the Province of Enna,
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is a reminder that the
history of this island
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dates far beyond the ancient
towns and temples of Greece.
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Overlooking the rugged
valleys of the central region
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we find the only major
city of ancient Sicily
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not founded by foreign invaders.
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Perched on a plateau in the
middle of the island is Enna.
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There's been a city here since 1200 B.C.,
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but like most of Sicily,
this place has been subjected
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to a long series of foreign invaders,
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beginning with the arrival
of the Greeks around 700 B.C.
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Next came the Romans, who enslaved much
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of the local population.
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After years of tyranny,
the first great rebellion
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against Rome began here in 137 B.C.,
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led by a slave named Eunis.
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The revolt lasted five
years before Roman forces
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were able to sack the city
and crush the rebellion.
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Today, Eunis is still hailed as a hero.
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Enna's most famous landmark is also one
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of the largest forts in Southern Italy,
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Castillo d'Lambardia.
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Built in the 13th century, only six
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of its original 20 towers remain.
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00:10:18,200 --> 00:10:21,430
The most well-preserved
is the Tower of Pisa,
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which offers the best
view in all of Sicily.
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On the clearest days, all
three coastlines can be seen.
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After the castle lost
its strategic importance,
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it served as a prison until the 1930s
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when it was transformed
into an open air theater
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called teatro piu vicino alle stelle,
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the theater closer to the stars.
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A variety of musical
performances were held here
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until it closed in 1992.
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Today the castle is open to the public
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and is Enna's most popular attraction.
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Across the vast, desolate
landscape of Central Sicily
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is another relic of times past.
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These are the abandoned
ruins of Castle Graste.
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This stretch of rocky crag
has served as an outpost
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since Greco-Roman times, but the fortress
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was likely built during
the Arab-Norman era.
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The crumbling edifice is slowly
being reclaimed by nature.
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The arid mountains give way to the rich,
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fertile plains of Central Catania.
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Agriculture has expanded far beyond
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the wheat fields of old.
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More than 400 varieties of
oranges are grown in Sicily.
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Although it's big business
for towns like Palagonia,
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tourism is playing a growing
role in Sicily's economy.
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Many visitors come to explore
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Orientata Pantalica Natural Park.
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It was possibly considered a
mystical place by the ancients
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since these valleys
hold around 4,000 tombs,
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some dating back almost three
and a half thousand years.
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On Sicily's eastern shore lies Syracuse.
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The Shrine of Our Lady of Tears
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may be an unmistakable modern addition
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to the city's skyline, but it's mix
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of architectural styles
represent thousands
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of years of history.
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Founded by the Greeks around 730 B.C.,
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Syracuse prospered and soon became
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the most powerful Greek city
in the entire Mediterranean.
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The famous Roman philosopher Cicero
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described this place as the greatest
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and most beautiful of
all the Greek cities.
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It's made up of five districts,
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which have all retained
their original ancient names.
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The oldest of these is the
tiny island of Ortigia.
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Translating as island of quails,
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it measures only one kilometer in length
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and 500 meters at its widest point.
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Because Sicily was under Spanish rule
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at the height of the Renaissance,
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00:13:27,890 --> 00:13:30,900
the styles that so
characterize this period
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00:13:30,900 --> 00:13:33,173
seem to have passed the island by.
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00:13:34,030 --> 00:13:38,030
After the unification of Italy in 1865,
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much of the fortification
walls were demolished
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and a bridge connecting
the island was built.
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In this historic heart
of Syracuse reminders
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of past eras can be found at every turn.
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00:13:51,860 --> 00:13:55,040
These ruins from the
7th century B.C. are all
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00:13:55,040 --> 00:13:57,400
that remain of the Temple of Apollo,
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00:13:57,400 --> 00:14:00,753
said to be the first great
Doric temple in all of Sicily.
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00:14:02,480 --> 00:14:04,640
At the southern-most tip of the island
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we find evidence of Ortigia's
strategic importance.
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The 13th century Castello Maniace
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is an excellent example of
Germanic fortress design,
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save for the round towers,
which have retained
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00:14:21,060 --> 00:14:23,103
their original Arabic style.
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00:14:25,460 --> 00:14:29,093
Today it's one of the most
visited sites in Ortigia.
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Another popular spot is the Piazza Duomo,
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or Cathedral Square.
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00:14:38,100 --> 00:14:41,540
The piazza's elegant
semi-oval form is home
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to some of the most prized
architecture in Syracuse.
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The Cathedral of Santa
Maria delle Colonnee
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features the original Doric columns
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00:14:50,950 --> 00:14:55,540
of its previous incarnation
as the Temple of Athena.
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00:14:55,540 --> 00:15:00,250
After two major earthquakes
in 1542 and 1693,
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00:15:00,250 --> 00:15:02,693
much of the city had to be rebuilt.
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00:15:03,740 --> 00:15:07,290
The flurry of construction
gave rise to a freer,
225
00:15:07,290 --> 00:15:09,610
highly-embellished Baroque style
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00:15:09,610 --> 00:15:12,223
that's now so characteristic of Sicily.
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00:15:17,350 --> 00:15:19,210
The materials used by the Greeks
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00:15:19,210 --> 00:15:22,030
to build the great City of Syracuse came
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00:15:22,030 --> 00:15:25,070
from this ancient complex of quarries.
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00:15:25,070 --> 00:15:28,960
It's estimated that some
4.7 million cubic meters
231
00:15:28,960 --> 00:15:32,760
of stone were extracted from this site.
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00:15:32,760 --> 00:15:36,400
The labyrinth also served
as a prison where thousands
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00:15:36,400 --> 00:15:39,833
were sentenced to hard
labor mining the rock.
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00:15:41,430 --> 00:15:43,890
One of the tourist attractions here is
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00:15:43,890 --> 00:15:46,763
this 3rd century Roman amphitheater.
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00:15:47,670 --> 00:15:50,700
But the most visited
ancient site in Syracuse
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is the nearby Greek theater,
built in the 5th century B.C.
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00:15:56,060 --> 00:16:00,260
With 59 rows and a capacity
to hold 15,000 people,
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00:16:00,260 --> 00:16:04,040
it's one of the largest
of its kind ever built.
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00:16:04,040 --> 00:16:07,700
It's still used today for
the Greek Theater Festival,
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00:16:07,700 --> 00:16:09,783
which takes place every summer.
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Ancient relics are not the only attraction
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00:16:14,330 --> 00:16:15,823
Sicily has to offer.
244
00:16:17,450 --> 00:16:22,450
The island boasts more than
1,000 kilometers of beaches.
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00:16:22,540 --> 00:16:26,003
Among the most popular are
these golden sands of Catania,
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00:16:26,860 --> 00:16:29,563
which stretch for more
than 100 kilometers.
247
00:16:32,390 --> 00:16:34,860
And perched atop a rocky seaside cliff
248
00:16:34,860 --> 00:16:39,520
on the eastern shore is the
picturesque village of Taormina,
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00:16:39,520 --> 00:16:42,683
the most popular tourist
destination in Sicily.
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00:16:44,230 --> 00:16:46,930
Its history as a resort
began with the Greek
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00:16:46,930 --> 00:16:49,540
and Roman upper classes and continued
252
00:16:49,540 --> 00:16:51,643
with each new foreign invader.
253
00:16:53,690 --> 00:16:57,590
By the 19th century,
Taormina had been elevated
254
00:16:57,590 --> 00:17:00,790
to a must-see destination
on the grand tour
255
00:17:00,790 --> 00:17:02,683
for fashionable English gentlemen.
256
00:17:04,470 --> 00:17:07,210
With such consistent
wealth over the centuries,
257
00:17:07,210 --> 00:17:09,630
the city has always
been spared the periods
258
00:17:09,630 --> 00:17:13,543
of economic hardship suffered
by other Sicilian towns.
259
00:17:16,010 --> 00:17:19,850
The city remains a magnet
for the rich and famous
260
00:17:19,850 --> 00:17:20,950
from around the globe.
261
00:17:25,840 --> 00:17:28,760
The number one site to visit in Taormina
262
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is the ancient Greco-Roman theater.
263
00:17:34,020 --> 00:17:36,460
The original was most
likely built by the Greeks
264
00:17:36,460 --> 00:17:38,313
in the 3rd century B.C.
265
00:17:40,200 --> 00:17:43,150
It was later restructured by the Romans
266
00:17:43,150 --> 00:17:46,993
and most of what we see dates
from the 2nd century A.D.
267
00:17:48,170 --> 00:17:51,670
It's interesting to note
that reserved seating existed
268
00:17:51,670 --> 00:17:53,730
even in Greek times.
269
00:17:53,730 --> 00:17:56,150
The names of the most affluent residents
270
00:17:56,150 --> 00:17:58,903
are still inscribed on some of the seats.
271
00:18:00,450 --> 00:18:03,390
Measuring more than
100 meters in diameter,
272
00:18:03,390 --> 00:18:06,503
it's the second largest
ancient theater in Sicily.
273
00:18:09,470 --> 00:18:13,793
The site was discovered
rather humbly in 1892.
274
00:18:15,760 --> 00:18:18,580
A blacksmith was digging
on the top of the hill
275
00:18:18,580 --> 00:18:21,290
when he hit upon some bricks.
276
00:18:21,290 --> 00:18:25,240
Word quickly spread and
archeologists soon arrived
277
00:18:25,240 --> 00:18:28,363
to oversee the painstaking
restoration project.
278
00:18:31,730 --> 00:18:35,660
Today the theater hosts a
prestigious annual film festival
279
00:18:35,660 --> 00:18:38,783
as well as summer theatrical
performances and concerts.
280
00:18:43,180 --> 00:18:45,770
Taormina may have much to offer by way
281
00:18:45,770 --> 00:18:48,580
of luxury resorts and ancient ruins,
282
00:18:48,580 --> 00:18:51,960
but the city is undoubtedly
most characterized
283
00:18:51,960 --> 00:18:53,593
by its natural beauty.
284
00:18:57,040 --> 00:19:01,180
The tiny island of Isola
Bella, just off the shore,
285
00:19:01,180 --> 00:19:04,920
offers a unique way to experience nature.
286
00:19:04,920 --> 00:19:09,423
This watery path provides the
island's only access by foot.
287
00:19:10,300 --> 00:19:14,710
It belonged to King Ferdinand
the First until 1806
288
00:19:14,710 --> 00:19:17,453
when he gifted it to the City of Taormina.
289
00:19:18,510 --> 00:19:22,070
But it quickly fell into private hands.
290
00:19:22,070 --> 00:19:26,260
It wasn't until 1990 that the
state purchased the island
291
00:19:26,260 --> 00:19:28,800
to serve as a resort and nature reserve
292
00:19:28,800 --> 00:19:32,023
for a variety of marine
and wildlife species.
293
00:19:33,020 --> 00:19:36,310
Today the Isola Bella
is under the protection
294
00:19:36,310 --> 00:19:38,333
of the World Wildlife Fund.
295
00:19:42,180 --> 00:19:46,440
Naturally, Sicily has a deep
connection with the sea.
296
00:19:46,440 --> 00:19:48,870
The Strait of Messina, which separates it
297
00:19:48,870 --> 00:19:52,260
from the Italian mainland,
has been a vital trade route
298
00:19:52,260 --> 00:19:53,943
since the ancient Greeks.
299
00:19:54,810 --> 00:19:57,830
Though sailors no longer
trade stories of sea monsters
300
00:19:57,830 --> 00:20:01,580
and sirens from "The Odyssey,"
they do occasionally witness
301
00:20:01,580 --> 00:20:04,206
the fata morgana, a natural mirage
302
00:20:04,206 --> 00:20:07,653
that appears as a wall of water.
303
00:20:08,930 --> 00:20:11,680
Today these vessels are in luck,
304
00:20:11,680 --> 00:20:14,410
as it looks like clear sailing ahead,
305
00:20:14,410 --> 00:20:15,723
at least for the moment.
306
00:20:21,870 --> 00:20:24,970
This is the view enjoyed
by legions of tourists
307
00:20:24,970 --> 00:20:28,493
as they approach the runway
of Reggio Calabria Airport.
308
00:20:30,490 --> 00:20:33,870
Originally built for the military in 1939,
309
00:20:33,870 --> 00:20:37,103
today it serves over half a
million passengers each year.
310
00:20:43,569 --> 00:20:45,660
Crossing the Strait of Messina,
311
00:20:45,660 --> 00:20:48,883
we find this military vessel
patrolling the waters.
312
00:20:50,420 --> 00:20:52,750
The Italian Navy currently has more
313
00:20:52,750 --> 00:20:54,870
than 60 vessels in commission.
314
00:20:54,870 --> 00:20:57,670
The fleet of the Reggio Marina provides
315
00:20:57,670 --> 00:21:00,713
a significant presence
in the Mediterranean Sea.
316
00:21:04,770 --> 00:21:06,600
As we return to the shore,
317
00:21:06,600 --> 00:21:10,320
a brewing storm cloud looms overhead.
318
00:21:10,320 --> 00:21:12,700
(thunder rumbling)
319
00:21:12,700 --> 00:21:16,060
The rumblings of thunder
add an ominous air
320
00:21:16,060 --> 00:21:19,253
as we near the volcanic
heart of Eastern Sicily.
321
00:21:20,350 --> 00:21:22,430
Though we're careful to keep our distance
322
00:21:22,430 --> 00:21:24,810
from this fearsome cumulonimbus,
323
00:21:24,810 --> 00:21:28,253
it's reassuring that it's
not the deadly billowing ash
324
00:21:28,253 --> 00:21:31,593
that has so often darkened these skies.
325
00:21:32,540 --> 00:21:36,250
Empires may rise and fall,
but none has had a greater
326
00:21:36,250 --> 00:21:40,253
or more profound impact
on Sicily than Mount Etna.
327
00:21:41,470 --> 00:21:44,120
At almost three and a
half thousand meters,
328
00:21:44,120 --> 00:21:46,813
it's Europe's biggest active volcano.
329
00:21:48,440 --> 00:21:51,660
As we start our slow
ascent along its flanks,
330
00:21:51,660 --> 00:21:54,297
clouds begin to obscure the summit.
331
00:21:56,180 --> 00:21:58,930
Fresh lava flow from recent eruptions
332
00:21:58,930 --> 00:22:02,153
has left everything in
its path utterly scorched.
333
00:22:08,720 --> 00:22:11,590
Over the past decade the
volcano has undergone
334
00:22:11,590 --> 00:22:13,960
a period of increased activity
335
00:22:13,960 --> 00:22:17,724
and now erupts several times each year.
336
00:22:17,724 --> 00:22:20,474
(majestic music)
337
00:22:25,820 --> 00:22:30,820
The most violent eruption in
recorded history was in 1669.
338
00:22:31,230 --> 00:22:34,570
3,000 people living on
the slopes were suffocated
339
00:22:34,570 --> 00:22:37,930
by the poisonous gases
alone before the lava
340
00:22:37,930 --> 00:22:40,830
and ash came bursting through.
341
00:22:40,830 --> 00:22:44,723
In all, more than 20,000
people were killed.
342
00:22:47,820 --> 00:22:51,010
As we get ever closer to
the very top of Mount Etna,
343
00:22:51,010 --> 00:22:53,140
we pass several craters that are
344
00:22:53,140 --> 00:22:56,230
in themselves mini volcanoes.
345
00:22:56,230 --> 00:22:59,670
Most eruptions that occur
are from the east side vents,
346
00:22:59,670 --> 00:23:00,520
as they're known.
347
00:23:01,520 --> 00:23:04,515
They sometimes get blocked,
causing the lava beneath
348
00:23:04,515 --> 00:23:06,983
to build under tremendous pressure.
349
00:23:08,870 --> 00:23:12,170
This leads to the violent explosive events
350
00:23:12,170 --> 00:23:14,983
that can cause so much
damage and loss of life.
351
00:23:15,870 --> 00:23:18,620
(majestic music)
352
00:23:28,290 --> 00:23:31,890
This eerie and bleak
sight tells us we're close
353
00:23:31,890 --> 00:23:34,833
to the summit and the
main crater of Mount Etna.
354
00:23:38,200 --> 00:23:40,570
What there is to be seen
through the rapidly building
355
00:23:40,570 --> 00:23:43,783
cloud cover shows very
little signs of life,
356
00:23:45,510 --> 00:23:48,340
something that has probably
changed very little
357
00:23:48,340 --> 00:23:51,333
in the half a million
years of its existence.
358
00:23:53,000 --> 00:23:55,930
But despite its awesome destructive power,
359
00:23:55,930 --> 00:23:59,060
the countless generations
that have lived in its shadow
360
00:23:59,060 --> 00:24:02,790
have always regarded Etna with reverence.
361
00:24:02,790 --> 00:24:06,163
Today it's still referred
to as Mongibello,
362
00:24:07,080 --> 00:24:09,470
meaning beautiful mountain.
363
00:24:09,470 --> 00:24:12,880
And right now the imminent
storm over the volcano
364
00:24:12,880 --> 00:24:15,890
means we'll have to save
our view of Etna's crater
365
00:24:15,890 --> 00:24:20,520
for another time, because it's
simply getting too dangerous.
366
00:24:20,520 --> 00:24:23,800
We take an altogether safer place
367
00:24:23,800 --> 00:24:26,503
that's also our final destination.
368
00:24:27,750 --> 00:24:31,793
The port City of Messina,
the gateway of Sicily.
369
00:24:32,690 --> 00:24:35,420
It's been the most
significant harbor in Sicily
370
00:24:35,420 --> 00:24:37,690
since Greek times.
371
00:24:37,690 --> 00:24:40,617
It's also the setting
for Shakespeare's play,
372
00:24:40,617 --> 00:24:43,030
"Much Ado About Nothing."
373
00:24:43,030 --> 00:24:47,277
Messina has born more than
its fair share of disasters.
374
00:24:47,277 --> 00:24:49,460
Over the past three centuries the city
375
00:24:49,460 --> 00:24:53,370
has endured a plague,
two massive earthquakes,
376
00:24:53,370 --> 00:24:56,973
and a devastating bombardment
during the second World War.
377
00:24:58,910 --> 00:25:01,983
It became known as the City of Ghosts
378
00:25:01,983 --> 00:25:06,983
because so many people fled
to safety in nearby towns.
379
00:25:07,160 --> 00:25:09,150
But in true Sicilian fashion,
380
00:25:09,150 --> 00:25:12,590
Messina forged ahead undaunted.
381
00:25:12,590 --> 00:25:16,418
This island, born of fire,
has produced a people
382
00:25:16,418 --> 00:25:20,073
with a fiery spirit, a fierce vitality.
383
00:25:21,750 --> 00:25:25,070
From the ashes of Mount
Etna rose this ancient
384
00:25:25,070 --> 00:25:30,070
and extraordinary place, a
beacon of hope across the sea,
385
00:25:30,210 --> 00:25:33,113
and a perfect place to end our journey.
386
00:25:35,856 --> 00:25:38,606
(majestic music)
31616
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