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(rousing orchestral music)
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(gentle music)
- We start our journey in Mantua,
one of the great renaissance cities of Italy.
Moving south and across the river Po
we come to the town of Parma,
also known as the golden city.
At Maranello, we'll visit Ferrari's famous factory
and test track before heading to Bologna
and it's fascinating medieval skyscrapers.
Making our way to the Adriatic Coast,
we stop at the ancient port town of Ravenna.
It's then on to one of the biggest
and best known beach resorts in Europe, Rimini.
We turn inland once more
towards one of the smallest countries in the world,
San Marino.
Before ending our journey at the formidable hilltop fortress
of San Leo.
(gentle vocalizing)
Surrounded by these grand artificial lakes,
Mantua's considered a true gem
of the Italian Renaissance.
In it's day, the city was a major hub
of arts and culture in Northern Italy.
Dominating the skyline
is the imposing dome of San Andreas.
It's significance as a major work
of 15th century architecture though
is shadowed by the church's religious importance.
Because directly under the dome is a crypt
containing a relic that's believed to have been soaked
with the blood of Christ.
Each year on Good Friday, it's brought out on the streets
in holy procession.
The shear passion and romance of Mantua
seems irrepressible.
It is, after all, to this very city
that Shakespeare's Romeo was banished
and where he later heard of the death of Juliet.
Mantua's golden days began in the 14th century
when it came under the control of the Gonzaga family,
one of Italy's great renaissance dynasties.
One fine example of the architecture they commissioned
is the Palazzo del Te.
(somber music)
Nestled in the suburbs,
it was constructed for the Marquess Federico Gonzaga
in the early 16th century.
It took 10 years, and many hundreds of laborers, to build.
At the time of the Palazzo's completion,
it sat outside the city walls
to be used by the Gonzaga family as a pleasure palace.
The architecture is in the manura style,
encompassing the various ideals
of harmony and imaginative rhythms.
This approach,
which was trumpeted by artists such as Michelangelo,
sought to represent illusionary effects
through disproportionate shapes.
Although various walls since then
have bore damage, neglect to the Palazzo del Te,
it remains a fine example of Mantura's strong,
artistic legacy.
(uplifting music)
The city's three lakes
were designed to function as a massive defensive moat.
And if that wasn't enough to deter an enemy attack,
there was yet more protection.
Resting near the shore of the Lago di Mezzo,
or middle lake, is the San Giorgio Castle.
Another commission from the Gonzaga family,
the fortress was built in the 14th century
to defend the city and establish military dominance
in the area.
It's austere but elegant, featuring four corner towers,
a drawbridge, and yet another moat.
Such heavy defenses secured it as a place of refuge
during an attack or siege.
The castle eventually became part of the Ducal Palace
and a treasure house of artwork.
For centuries it had held back invaders,
but it was an earthquake in 2012 that caused most damage
leading to closure of parts of the building.
A network or corridors and galleries
connect the larger complex of Ducal Palace,
where the Gonzaga family took up residence
between the 14th and 17th centuries.
(enchanted guitar music)
It's a magnificent display of wealth and power,
with over 500 rooms covering 34,000 square meters.
These arches and columns
were typical of the more grandiose buildings
of the high renaissance.
A movement born in Italy
where art and architecture were created
to appeal to both emotion and reason,
and were lavishly supported by nobility and the rich.
Simplicity of vision and clarity
were the classical ideals
that underpinned many areas of life,
and lead to the creation of places like the Palazzo.
More than a royal residence, it was a work of art,
full of high concepts and deep meanings.
Heading south, we cross the river Po,
whose banks have been inhabited since neolithic times.
It leads us to the town of Parma,
(melancholy orchestral music)
a settlement founded by a group of 2,000 Romans
as part of a colonization project in 183 BC.
For many centuries, it enjoyed wealth and riches.
And during those prosperous times,
was known as Chrisopoulos, or the golden city.
While it's unclear whether this was due to it's location
in the rich, fertile area,
or to it's treasury filled with gold,
it was unequivocally a thriving center
of trade and innovation.
In 1561, British diplomat, William Thomas,
described the place as a remarkable city
located between the hills of the Apennines and the river Po,
with pastures so tasty and sweet
that the name of Parma is known everywhere.
The streets look as though they've been dipped in honey.
Overlooking the heart of the city is Parma Cathedral.
A Basilica has stood on this site
from as early as the sixth century
with a fortified church erected three centuries later.
A devastating earthquake, in 1117,
almost completely destroyed the building,
but it was painstakingly restored
to it's original splendor.
Then, in the late 13th century,
the 63 meter high Gothic belfry was raised.
Along side stands the cathedral's distinctive octagonal
baptistry, commissioned toward the end of the 12th century.
Though little is known about it's architect,
Benedetto Antelami, the elegance of this structure
speaks volumes about his mastery over design.
But sadly, he wouldn't have been around long enough
to see it's completion.
Clad in striking pink marble, it took 130 years to complete,
not least, because of the city's long dispute with Verona,
the suppliers of the prized marble.
Today it stands as one of the most important
medieval monuments in Europe,
since it marks the architecture transition
from Romanesque to Gothic.
Just east of Parma, it's back to the present,
and cutting edge automotive engineering.
This factory at Maranello has been home to Ferrari
and it's iconic sports cars since the 1940's.
Covering 23,000 square meters,
the buildings house over 3,000 workers,
all striving to perpetuate Enzo Ferrari's dream,
to build the ultimate car that combines performance
with elegance.
It seems he succeeded.
Today, these super cars are the definitive statement
of status, wealth, and of course, prowess.
It's a far cry from the World War II years
when the Ferrari company survived
producing machine tools for the military.
But not long after the war,
cars started to churn out at a rapid pace
winning a string of international races.
(upbeat rock music)
Many of Ferrari's racing legends
would have tested their metal here
on the factory's private track, the famous Fiorano Circuit.
Since it was built in 1972,
it's undergone a number of changes
to best simulate the most demanding of Grand Prix circuits.
First and foremost, it's a test track
for their production cars.
High tech scanners line the length
and breadth of the circuit.
A large skid pan tests tires and handling
with advanced sprinklers
that can soak the tarmac in minutes.
As well as guided tours around the factory, lucky customers,
who may have spent over $400,000 for the latest top model,
get to drive their new cars around the track.
But it's unlikely
they'll match Michael Schumacher's record lap time
of 55.999 seconds set in 2004.
A little further southeast we come to this extraordinary
structure that is one of the longest roofed arcades
in the world.
(somber music)
666 arches stretching 3 1/2 kilometers
lead up the side of the hill to the sanctuary
of the Madonna of San Luca.
The basilica church perches 300 meters
over the regional capital Bologna.
The sanctuary was originally built
to house the icon of the Madonna
while the purpose of the arcade
was to shelter the relic on it's long journey
up the hill.
It demonstrates what the devout locals
were willing to spend on a structure
to house their patron saint.
The lavish Baroque style basilica
was begun in the 17th century,
funded by various popes
until it was finally completed in 1950.
The peaceful tranquility of this place
is momentarily interrupted by the roar
of the jet powered motor of this Squirrel helicopter.
(helicopter blades whirring)
It's headed for Bologna,
one of the wealthiest cities in Italy,
and it's also our next stop.
(melancholy music)
The stand out feature of Bologna
is the shear number of covered walkways.
Known as porticos, they provide shelter from the rain
or snow as well as a feeling of being encapsulated
in history.
Even the great English writer, Charles Dickens,
noted the cool charm of the arcades.
In his book, "Pictures from Italy,"
he writes, well thanks to God, it's very cheerful.
How green it is.
How cool it is.
It's quite a meadow.
Another unique feature of Bologna's cityscape
are the huge towers
that rise up through the buildings and arcades.
Once numbering 180,
it's thought that these curious medieval skyscrapers
were built by wealthy families simply as status symbols.
Later they served as prison, shops and even residences.
(lighthearted music)
The most famous of these are known as the two towers.
The taller one is called the Asinelli,
while the smaller, less upright tower
is named the Garisenda.
Great wooden poles
that had been hammered into the ground
provide the foundations,
and have somehow kept them safely aloft for centuries.
Though only just, it seems.
As the stone walls climb upwards
the blocks become thinner and lighter.
It may have taken up to 10 years
to build a typical tower to a height of 60 meters.
Over the years the towers have been used
for various scientific experiments,
on the motion of falling and the earth's rotation.
They were also described in Dante's "Divine Comedy"
as bending and leaning through the clouds.
It's strange to imagine a Bologna skyline
was once covered in these tall, square monoliths
with the inhabitants peering down to the streets below.
(brooding music)
We now head southwards
to the famous San Marina Grand Prix circuit.
Originally constructed in 1950 for car manufacturers
to test their prototypes,
the track went on to host Formula 1 for 20 years.
It's also known for a tragic event in racing
as it was here, in 1994, that Brazilian racer,
Ayrton Senna, lost his life in a freak accident.
Regarded as one of the greatest drivers of all time,
the triple world champion lost control of his vehicle
and crashed into a retaining wall.
Chances are he would have survived
were it not for a piece of metal penetrating his helmet.
He died from a critical head injury
at a hospital in Bologna only hours later.
The track is no longer used for Formula 1.
Nearby is Ravenna, a city connected to the Adriatic Sea
by the Candiano Canal.
It's rise to power came in the first century BC
under the Emperor Augustus,
who built a port a naval base here.
As the capital of the Western Roman Empire,
it continued to thrive for several hundred years.
(dramatic music)
It later served as both the capital
of the Ostrogorth Empire
and the seat of Byzantine government in Italy.
Many of the buildings still evoke
the town's Eastern heritage.
Even Oscar Wilde, the famous 19th century writer and wit,
was taken by it's ancient charm, writing,
I saw that holy city, rising clear,
crowned with her crown of towers.
These unique architectural features
and the mosaics that adorn them
have earned Ravennna the status
of the UNESCO World Heritage site.
The Candiano Canal connects the town center
to the sea 12 kilometers away.
With shipyards, cargo ports
and a major petro chemical plant,
this waterway is as important now
as ever it was.
2,000 years ago, a massive Roman fleet
was stationed here, instrumental in maintaining control
of the Mediterranean basin as well as surrounding cities.
Today the traffic is more for commerce and leisure.
A passenger terminal offers cruises
to other Italian destinations as well as Croatia.
Out towards the sea, we come to the wetlands
and lagoons that characterize Ravenna's shores.
These wild, unspoiled beaches mark the southern end
of the vast, natural reserve that is the Po Delta Park.
It's a UNESCO World Heritage site
as well as a paradise for bird watchers.
But, all that changes
as we approach Italy's Adriatic Riviera.
(playful accordion music)
A seemingly endless line of breakwaters
protect beaches from erosion
as well as the interests of the regions biggest industry,
tourism.
And seaside towns don't come much bigger than Rimini.
It is one of the best known resorts in Italy.
We've arrived off season.
During the peak months of July and August,
these golden beaches heave with holiday makers.
It's success today belies a history of ups and downs.
The town was devastated during World War II
but rapid rebuilding saw visitors from all over Europe
returning in their droves.
In the 1970's, it fought of fierce competition
from other major resorts by remodeling itself
as an entertainment capital with theme parks,
arcades and clubs.
It was a formula that proved a hit with Italians themselves
who now make up over 80% of those choosing Rimini
as their holiday destination.
(enchanted orchestral music)
Just inland, but worlds away from the bustle
of the coastal towns,
lies one of the smallest countries in the world.
An enclave of only 60 square kilometers,
this is the Republic of San Marino.
It's reputed to be one of the world's wealthiest places
when comparing it's small population of just over 30,000
to it's rich and stable economy.
The capital city, also called San Marino,
has it's ancient center
sitting atop this 700 meter cliff edge.
Throughout the walled town
along winding cobblestone streets,
many of which prohibit motor vehicles,
it's population of only 4,000 is vastly outnumbered
during the holiday seasons
by visitors coming to enjoy the sights,
as well as tax free shopping.
On it's northeastern edge lies the basilica
dedicated to the founder of the city, Saint Marinus.
As a Christian, he's believed
to have fled from Roman persecution
finding refuge here on Mount Titano
in the year 301 AD.
The story continues
that the Christian community he founded here
was bequeathed the land by a sympathetic owner
on condition that they always remain united.
Apparently they did.
The city flourished
until it was granted full independence in 1296.
This makes San Marino one of the oldest surviving
republics in the world.
And no trip to the city is complete
without visiting it's most popular tourist attraction,
Guaita Fortress.
For a thousand years this striking castle
has stood on the rock's edge guarding all it surveys.
Guaita is the oldest and tallest
of three such towers surrounding the city
and are depicted on the national flag.
A fitting symbol for the pride and heritage
of the place and it's people.
In 2008, both country and capital
were declared a UNESCO World Heritage site
as a testimony to the continuity of a free republic
since the Middle Ages.
(haunting dramatic music)
We complete our journey just across the boarder
and back on Italian soil at the ancient town of San Leo.
Located on this enormous spur
would have made accessing the settlement quite a task
for early invaders.
But rather than deterring enemies,
it made it even more tempting.
The cliff edge fortress that watches over the town
was constantly fought over until the mid 15th century
when it was finally conquered by Federico da Montefeltro.
When the papers he took control of San Leo
in the 17th century, the fortress was used,
not so much to keep people out,
as to keep them in.
It served as a harsh, forbidding prison
right up until 1906.
Later, it was to become a museum,
housing an extensive collection of armor and weaponry.
Today both fortress and town hold frequent community events
and celebrations.
At the end of June, San Leo hosts a festival
of street artist and markets in remembrance of Saint Francis
who visited the town in 1213.
There's also the curious festival of alchemy.
With lively street parties and fireworks
it celebrates both science and sorcery.
But it's certainly hard to imagine
anything that can make San Leo more magical
than it already is.
A perfect place to end this journey.
(energetic orchestral music)
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