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(gentle wind whooshing)
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(rousing orchestral music)
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(dramatic upbeat music)
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(gentle music)
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- We start
our journey in Mantua,
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one of the great
renaissance cities of Italy.
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Moving south and across the river Po
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we come to the town of Parma,
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also known as the golden city.
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At Maranello, we'll visit
Ferrari's famous factory
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and test track before heading to Bologna
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and it's fascinating medieval skyscrapers.
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Making our way to the Adriatic Coast,
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we stop at the ancient
port town of Ravenna.
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It's then on to one of the biggest
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and best known beach
resorts in Europe, Rimini.
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We turn inland once more
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towards one of the smallest
countries in the world,
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San Marino.
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Before ending our journey at
the formidable hilltop fortress
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of San Leo.
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(gentle vocalizing)
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Surrounded by these
grand artificial lakes,
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Mantua's considered a true gem
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of the Italian Renaissance.
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In it's day, the city was a major hub
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of arts and culture in Northern Italy.
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Dominating the skyline
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is the imposing dome of San Andreas.
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It's significance as a major work
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of 15th century architecture though
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is shadowed by the church's
religious importance.
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Because directly under the dome is a crypt
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containing a relic that's
believed to have been soaked
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with the blood of Christ.
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Each year on Good Friday, it's
brought out on the streets
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in holy procession.
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The shear passion and romance of Mantua
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seems irrepressible.
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It is, after all, to this very city
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that Shakespeare's Romeo was banished
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and where he later heard
of the death of Juliet.
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Mantua's golden days
began in the 14th century
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when it came under the
control of the Gonzaga family,
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one of Italy's great
renaissance dynasties.
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One fine example of the
architecture they commissioned
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is the Palazzo del Te.
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(somber music)
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Nestled in the suburbs,
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it was constructed for the
Marquess Federico Gonzaga
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in the early 16th century.
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It took 10 years, and many
hundreds of laborers, to build.
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At the time of the Palazzo's completion,
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it sat outside the city walls
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to be used by the Gonzaga
family as a pleasure palace.
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The architecture is in the manura style,
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encompassing the various ideals
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of harmony and imaginative rhythms.
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This approach,
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which was trumpeted by
artists such as Michelangelo,
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sought to represent illusionary effects
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through disproportionate shapes.
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Although various walls since then
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have bore damage, neglect
to the Palazzo del Te,
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it remains a fine example
of Mantura's strong,
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artistic legacy.
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(uplifting music)
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The city's three lakes
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were designed to function
as a massive defensive moat.
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And if that wasn't enough
to deter an enemy attack,
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there was yet more protection.
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Resting near the shore
of the Lago di Mezzo,
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or middle lake, is the San Giorgio Castle.
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Another commission from
the Gonzaga family,
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the fortress was built in the 14th century
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to defend the city and
establish military dominance
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in the area.
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It's austere but elegant,
featuring four corner towers,
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a drawbridge, and yet another moat.
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Such heavy defenses secured
it as a place of refuge
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during an attack or siege.
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The castle eventually became
part of the Ducal Palace
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and a treasure house of artwork.
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For centuries it had held back invaders,
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but it was an earthquake in
2012 that caused most damage
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leading to closure of
parts of the building.
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A network or corridors and galleries
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connect the larger
complex of Ducal Palace,
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where the Gonzaga family took up residence
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between the 14th and 17th centuries.
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(enchanted guitar music)
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It's a magnificent display
of wealth and power,
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with over 500 rooms covering
34,000 square meters.
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These arches and columns
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were typical of the
more grandiose buildings
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of the high renaissance.
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A movement born in Italy
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where art and architecture were created
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to appeal to both emotion and reason,
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and were lavishly supported
by nobility and the rich.
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Simplicity of vision and clarity
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were the classical ideals
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that underpinned many areas of life,
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and lead to the creation
of places like the Palazzo.
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More than a royal residence,
it was a work of art,
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full of high concepts and deep meanings.
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Heading south, we cross the river Po,
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whose banks have been inhabited
since neolithic times.
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It leads us to the town of Parma,
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(melancholy orchestral music)
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a settlement founded by
a group of 2,000 Romans
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as part of a colonization
project in 183 BC.
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For many centuries, it
enjoyed wealth and riches.
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And during those prosperous times,
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was known as Chrisopoulos,
or the golden city.
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While it's unclear whether
this was due to it's location
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in the rich, fertile area,
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or to it's treasury filled with gold,
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it was unequivocally a thriving center
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of trade and innovation.
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In 1561, British diplomat, William Thomas,
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described the place as a remarkable city
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located between the hills of
the Apennines and the river Po,
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with pastures so tasty and sweet
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that the name of Parma
is known everywhere.
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The streets look as though
they've been dipped in honey.
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Overlooking the heart of
the city is Parma Cathedral.
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A Basilica has stood on this site
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from as early as the sixth century
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with a fortified church
erected three centuries later.
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A devastating earthquake, in 1117,
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almost completely destroyed the building,
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but it was painstakingly restored
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to it's original splendor.
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Then, in the late 13th century,
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the 63 meter high Gothic
belfry was raised.
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Along side stands the
cathedral's distinctive octagonal
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baptistry, commissioned toward
the end of the 12th century.
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Though little is known
about it's architect,
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Benedetto Antelami, the
elegance of this structure
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speaks volumes about
his mastery over design.
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But sadly, he wouldn't have
been around long enough
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to see it's completion.
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Clad in striking pink marble,
it took 130 years to complete,
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not least, because of the
city's long dispute with Verona,
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the suppliers of the prized marble.
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Today it stands as one
of the most important
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medieval monuments in Europe,
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since it marks the architecture transition
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from Romanesque to Gothic.
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Just east of Parma, it's
back to the present,
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and cutting edge automotive engineering.
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This factory at Maranello
has been home to Ferrari
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and it's iconic sports
cars since the 1940's.
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Covering 23,000 square meters,
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the buildings house over 3,000 workers,
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all striving to perpetuate
Enzo Ferrari's dream,
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to build the ultimate car
that combines performance
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with elegance.
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It seems he succeeded.
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Today, these super cars are
the definitive statement
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of status, wealth, and of course, prowess.
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It's a far cry from the World War II years
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when the Ferrari company survived
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producing machine tools for the military.
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But not long after the war,
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cars started to churn out at a rapid pace
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winning a string of international races.
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(upbeat rock music)
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Many of Ferrari's racing legends
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would have tested their metal here
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on the factory's private track,
the famous Fiorano Circuit.
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Since it was built in 1972,
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it's undergone a number of changes
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to best simulate the most
demanding of Grand Prix circuits.
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First and foremost, it's a test track
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for their production cars.
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High tech scanners line the length
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and breadth of the circuit.
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A large skid pan tests tires and handling
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with advanced sprinklers
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that can soak the tarmac in minutes.
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As well as guided tours around
the factory, lucky customers,
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who may have spent over $400,000
for the latest top model,
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get to drive their new
cars around the track.
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But it's unlikely
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they'll match Michael
Schumacher's record lap time
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of 55.999 seconds set in 2004.
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A little further southeast
we come to this extraordinary
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structure that is one of
the longest roofed arcades
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in the world.
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(somber music)
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666 arches stretching 3 1/2 kilometers
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lead up the side of the
hill to the sanctuary
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of the Madonna of San Luca.
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The basilica church perches 300 meters
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over the regional capital Bologna.
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The sanctuary was originally built
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to house the icon of the Madonna
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while the purpose of the arcade
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was to shelter the relic
on it's long journey
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up the hill.
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It demonstrates what the devout locals
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were willing to spend on a structure
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to house their patron saint.
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The lavish Baroque style basilica
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was begun in the 17th century,
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funded by various popes
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until it was finally completed in 1950.
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The peaceful tranquility of this place
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is momentarily interrupted by the roar
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of the jet powered motor of
this Squirrel helicopter.
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(helicopter blades whirring)
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It's headed for Bologna,
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one of the wealthiest cities in Italy,
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and it's also our next stop.
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(melancholy music)
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The stand out feature of Bologna
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is the shear number of covered walkways.
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Known as porticos, they
provide shelter from the rain
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or snow as well as a feeling
of being encapsulated
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in history.
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Even the great English
writer, Charles Dickens,
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noted the cool charm of the arcades.
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In his book, "Pictures from Italy,"
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he writes, well thanks to
God, it's very cheerful.
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How green it is.
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How cool it is.
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It's quite a meadow.
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Another unique feature
of Bologna's cityscape
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are the huge towers
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that rise up through the
buildings and arcades.
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Once numbering 180,
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it's thought that these
curious medieval skyscrapers
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were built by wealthy families
simply as status symbols.
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Later they served as prison,
shops and even residences.
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(lighthearted music)
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The most famous of these
are known as the two towers.
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The taller one is called the Asinelli,
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while the smaller, less upright tower
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is named the Garisenda.
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Great wooden poles
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that had been hammered into the ground
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provide the foundations,
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and have somehow kept them
safely aloft for centuries.
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Though only just, it seems.
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As the stone walls climb upwards
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the blocks become thinner and lighter.
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It may have taken up to 10 years
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to build a typical tower
to a height of 60 meters.
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Over the years the towers have been used
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for various scientific experiments,
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on the motion of falling
and the earth's rotation.
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They were also described
in Dante's "Divine Comedy"
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as bending and leaning through the clouds.
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It's strange to imagine a Bologna skyline
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was once covered in these
tall, square monoliths
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with the inhabitants peering
down to the streets below.
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(brooding music)
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We now head southwards
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to the famous San Marina
Grand Prix circuit.
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00:16:19,860 --> 00:16:23,150
Originally constructed in
1950 for car manufacturers
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to test their prototypes,
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00:16:24,960 --> 00:16:29,373
the track went on to host
Formula 1 for 20 years.
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00:16:30,670 --> 00:16:34,590
It's also known for a
tragic event in racing
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00:16:34,590 --> 00:16:38,970
as it was here, in 1994,
that Brazilian racer,
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00:16:38,970 --> 00:16:43,053
Ayrton Senna, lost his
life in a freak accident.
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00:16:44,110 --> 00:16:47,091
Regarded as one of the
greatest drivers of all time,
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the triple world champion
lost control of his vehicle
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00:16:50,560 --> 00:16:52,913
and crashed into a retaining wall.
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00:16:54,090 --> 00:16:56,100
Chances are he would have survived
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00:16:56,100 --> 00:16:59,960
were it not for a piece of
metal penetrating his helmet.
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00:16:59,960 --> 00:17:01,698
He died from a critical head injury
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00:17:01,698 --> 00:17:05,163
at a hospital in Bologna only hours later.
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00:17:06,418 --> 00:17:10,133
The track is no longer used for Formula 1.
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Nearby is Ravenna, a city
connected to the Adriatic Sea
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by the Candiano Canal.
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00:17:22,070 --> 00:17:25,330
It's rise to power came
in the first century BC
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under the Emperor Augustus,
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00:17:27,140 --> 00:17:29,563
who built a port a naval base here.
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00:17:32,120 --> 00:17:34,650
As the capital of the
Western Roman Empire,
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00:17:34,650 --> 00:17:37,783
it continued to thrive
for several hundred years.
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00:17:37,783 --> 00:17:39,440
(dramatic music)
284
00:17:39,440 --> 00:17:41,480
It later served as both the capital
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00:17:41,480 --> 00:17:43,410
of the Ostrogorth Empire
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00:17:43,410 --> 00:17:46,023
and the seat of Byzantine
government in Italy.
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00:17:49,230 --> 00:17:51,330
Many of the buildings still evoke
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00:17:51,330 --> 00:17:53,283
the town's Eastern heritage.
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00:17:54,770 --> 00:17:58,880
Even Oscar Wilde, the famous
19th century writer and wit,
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00:17:58,880 --> 00:18:01,491
was taken by it's ancient charm, writing,
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00:18:01,491 --> 00:18:05,460
I saw that holy city, rising clear,
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00:18:05,460 --> 00:18:07,833
crowned with her crown of towers.
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00:18:09,360 --> 00:18:11,970
These unique architectural features
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00:18:11,970 --> 00:18:14,000
and the mosaics that adorn them
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00:18:14,000 --> 00:18:16,020
have earned Ravennna the status
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00:18:16,020 --> 00:18:18,693
of the UNESCO World Heritage site.
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00:18:22,240 --> 00:18:25,360
The Candiano Canal
connects the town center
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00:18:25,360 --> 00:18:27,943
to the sea 12 kilometers away.
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00:18:29,570 --> 00:18:31,357
With shipyards, cargo ports
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00:18:31,357 --> 00:18:34,510
and a major petro chemical plant,
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00:18:34,510 --> 00:18:37,063
this waterway is as important now
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00:18:37,063 --> 00:18:38,863
as ever it was.
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00:18:40,160 --> 00:18:43,400
2,000 years ago, a massive Roman fleet
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00:18:43,400 --> 00:18:47,410
was stationed here, instrumental
in maintaining control
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00:18:47,410 --> 00:18:51,053
of the Mediterranean basin as
well as surrounding cities.
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00:18:53,780 --> 00:18:57,530
Today the traffic is more
for commerce and leisure.
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A passenger terminal offers cruises
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00:18:59,610 --> 00:19:03,043
to other Italian destinations
as well as Croatia.
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00:19:06,160 --> 00:19:08,910
Out towards the sea,
we come to the wetlands
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00:19:08,910 --> 00:19:12,113
and lagoons that characterize
Ravenna's shores.
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00:19:13,170 --> 00:19:16,560
These wild, unspoiled
beaches mark the southern end
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00:19:16,560 --> 00:19:20,950
of the vast, natural reserve
that is the Po Delta Park.
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00:19:20,950 --> 00:19:22,873
It's a UNESCO World Heritage site
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00:19:22,873 --> 00:19:25,933
as well as a paradise for bird watchers.
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00:19:28,830 --> 00:19:30,620
But, all that changes
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00:19:30,620 --> 00:19:33,530
as we approach Italy's Adriatic Riviera.
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00:19:33,530 --> 00:19:37,030
(playful accordion music)
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00:19:42,530 --> 00:19:45,720
A seemingly endless line of breakwaters
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00:19:45,720 --> 00:19:47,562
protect beaches from erosion
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00:19:47,562 --> 00:19:51,730
as well as the interests of
the regions biggest industry,
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00:19:51,730 --> 00:19:53,210
tourism.
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00:19:53,210 --> 00:19:57,253
And seaside towns don't come
much bigger than Rimini.
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00:19:58,470 --> 00:20:01,023
It is one of the best
known resorts in Italy.
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00:20:02,550 --> 00:20:04,660
We've arrived off season.
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00:20:04,660 --> 00:20:07,260
During the peak months of July and August,
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00:20:07,260 --> 00:20:11,083
these golden beaches
heave with holiday makers.
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00:20:15,570 --> 00:20:20,570
It's success today belies
a history of ups and downs.
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00:20:20,600 --> 00:20:23,580
The town was devastated
during World War II
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00:20:23,580 --> 00:20:27,150
but rapid rebuilding saw
visitors from all over Europe
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00:20:27,150 --> 00:20:28,943
returning in their droves.
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00:20:29,830 --> 00:20:33,150
In the 1970's, it fought
of fierce competition
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00:20:33,150 --> 00:20:36,254
from other major resorts
by remodeling itself
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00:20:36,254 --> 00:20:39,620
as an entertainment
capital with theme parks,
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00:20:39,620 --> 00:20:41,513
arcades and clubs.
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00:20:43,010 --> 00:20:46,428
It was a formula that proved
a hit with Italians themselves
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00:20:46,428 --> 00:20:51,090
who now make up over 80%
of those choosing Rimini
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00:20:51,090 --> 00:20:52,863
as their holiday destination.
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00:20:56,604 --> 00:20:57,680
(enchanted orchestral music)
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00:20:57,680 --> 00:21:00,860
Just inland, but worlds
away from the bustle
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00:21:00,860 --> 00:21:02,560
of the coastal towns,
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00:21:02,560 --> 00:21:05,133
lies one of the smallest
countries in the world.
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00:21:06,400 --> 00:21:09,950
An enclave of only 60 square kilometers,
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00:21:09,950 --> 00:21:12,743
this is the Republic of San Marino.
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00:21:15,260 --> 00:21:18,684
It's reputed to be one of
the world's wealthiest places
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00:21:18,684 --> 00:21:22,488
when comparing it's small
population of just over 30,000
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00:21:22,488 --> 00:21:25,203
to it's rich and stable economy.
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00:21:26,210 --> 00:21:29,330
The capital city, also called San Marino,
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00:21:29,330 --> 00:21:30,930
has it's ancient center
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00:21:30,930 --> 00:21:34,443
sitting atop this 700 meter cliff edge.
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00:21:37,990 --> 00:21:39,670
Throughout the walled town
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00:21:39,670 --> 00:21:42,380
along winding cobblestone streets,
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00:21:42,380 --> 00:21:44,943
many of which prohibit motor vehicles,
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00:21:46,170 --> 00:21:49,970
it's population of only
4,000 is vastly outnumbered
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00:21:49,970 --> 00:21:51,610
during the holiday seasons
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00:21:51,610 --> 00:21:54,170
by visitors coming to enjoy the sights,
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00:21:54,170 --> 00:21:55,853
as well as tax free shopping.
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00:21:59,750 --> 00:22:02,560
On it's northeastern
edge lies the basilica
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00:22:02,560 --> 00:22:06,193
dedicated to the founder
of the city, Saint Marinus.
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00:22:07,070 --> 00:22:09,160
As a Christian, he's believed
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00:22:09,160 --> 00:22:11,630
to have fled from Roman persecution
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00:22:11,630 --> 00:22:15,150
finding refuge here on Mount Titano
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00:22:15,150 --> 00:22:18,003
in the year 301 AD.
363
00:22:20,160 --> 00:22:21,660
The story continues
364
00:22:21,660 --> 00:22:23,812
that the Christian
community he founded here
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00:22:23,812 --> 00:22:26,967
was bequeathed the land
by a sympathetic owner
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00:22:26,967 --> 00:22:31,420
on condition that they
always remain united.
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00:22:31,420 --> 00:22:33,120
Apparently they did.
368
00:22:33,120 --> 00:22:34,150
The city flourished
369
00:22:34,150 --> 00:22:38,260
until it was granted full
independence in 1296.
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00:22:38,260 --> 00:22:41,760
This makes San Marino one
of the oldest surviving
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00:22:41,760 --> 00:22:43,513
republics in the world.
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00:22:48,400 --> 00:22:50,830
And no trip to the city is complete
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00:22:50,830 --> 00:22:53,990
without visiting it's most
popular tourist attraction,
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00:22:53,990 --> 00:22:55,513
Guaita Fortress.
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00:22:56,807 --> 00:23:00,530
For a thousand years this striking castle
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00:23:00,530 --> 00:23:04,413
has stood on the rock's edge
guarding all it surveys.
377
00:23:08,440 --> 00:23:11,170
Guaita is the oldest and tallest
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00:23:11,170 --> 00:23:14,120
of three such towers surrounding the city
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00:23:14,120 --> 00:23:16,523
and are depicted on the national flag.
380
00:23:18,650 --> 00:23:21,030
A fitting symbol for
the pride and heritage
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00:23:21,030 --> 00:23:22,480
of the place and it's people.
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00:23:28,190 --> 00:23:31,330
In 2008, both country and capital
383
00:23:31,330 --> 00:23:34,220
were declared a UNESCO World Heritage site
384
00:23:34,220 --> 00:23:38,340
as a testimony to the
continuity of a free republic
385
00:23:38,340 --> 00:23:39,913
since the Middle Ages.
386
00:23:44,840 --> 00:23:46,930
(haunting dramatic music)
387
00:23:46,930 --> 00:23:49,810
We complete our journey
just across the boarder
388
00:23:49,810 --> 00:23:54,313
and back on Italian soil at
the ancient town of San Leo.
389
00:23:57,180 --> 00:23:59,500
Located on this enormous spur
390
00:23:59,500 --> 00:24:02,400
would have made accessing
the settlement quite a task
391
00:24:02,400 --> 00:24:03,873
for early invaders.
392
00:24:06,870 --> 00:24:08,840
But rather than deterring enemies,
393
00:24:08,840 --> 00:24:10,713
it made it even more tempting.
394
00:24:12,170 --> 00:24:14,977
The cliff edge fortress
that watches over the town
395
00:24:14,977 --> 00:24:18,931
was constantly fought over
until the mid 15th century
396
00:24:18,931 --> 00:24:23,343
when it was finally conquered
by Federico da Montefeltro.
397
00:24:25,410 --> 00:24:27,600
When the papers he took control of San Leo
398
00:24:27,600 --> 00:24:30,358
in the 17th century,
the fortress was used,
399
00:24:30,358 --> 00:24:32,630
not so much to keep people out,
400
00:24:32,630 --> 00:24:35,020
as to keep them in.
401
00:24:35,020 --> 00:24:37,735
It served as a harsh, forbidding prison
402
00:24:37,735 --> 00:24:41,133
right up until 1906.
403
00:24:43,090 --> 00:24:45,570
Later, it was to become a museum,
404
00:24:45,570 --> 00:24:50,250
housing an extensive collection
of armor and weaponry.
405
00:24:50,250 --> 00:24:53,957
Today both fortress and town
hold frequent community events
406
00:24:53,957 --> 00:24:56,480
and celebrations.
407
00:24:56,480 --> 00:24:59,430
At the end of June, San
Leo hosts a festival
408
00:24:59,430 --> 00:25:03,600
of street artist and markets
in remembrance of Saint Francis
409
00:25:03,600 --> 00:25:06,283
who visited the town in 1213.
410
00:25:09,100 --> 00:25:12,600
There's also the curious
festival of alchemy.
411
00:25:12,600 --> 00:25:14,605
With lively street parties and fireworks
412
00:25:14,605 --> 00:25:18,283
it celebrates both science and sorcery.
413
00:25:19,480 --> 00:25:21,380
But it's certainly hard to imagine
414
00:25:21,380 --> 00:25:24,674
anything that can make
San Leo more magical
415
00:25:24,674 --> 00:25:26,563
than it already is.
416
00:25:28,392 --> 00:25:30,953
A perfect place to end this journey.
417
00:25:34,265 --> 00:25:38,015
(energetic orchestral music)
32501
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