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(wind blowing)
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(upbeat music)
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(upbeat music)
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- Our journey,
which follows the border
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between Wyoming and Montana,
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begins in amongst the mountains
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of Yellowstone Park's Soda Butte Valley
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and the landmark summit of Pilot Peak.
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From the dramatic glaciers
of the Absaroka Range,
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we turn to make our way to Beartooth Pass
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and the road that's been described as
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the most beautiful drive in America.
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Further south is one of the
most picturesque stretches
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of the Clarks Fork River with white water
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coursing through its canyon walls.
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We turn once more at the Wapiti Valley,
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famous for its guest ranches
and horseback riding.
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The only city we'll be
visiting on this route is Cody,
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named after the legendary pioneer
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best known as Buffalo Bill.
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Once across the arid
wilderness of Bighorn Basin,
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we complete our journey at
the canyon of the same name
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with gorges as unique
as they are spectacular.
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(upbeat music)
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Named after a dormant geyser,
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Soda Butte Creek is
one of the first sights
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for visitors of Yellowstone Park
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entering from Wyoming's northeast corner.
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In addition to a popular
grazing spot for buffalo,
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Soda Butte Creek offers
anglers an excellent spot
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to fly fish for cutthroat trout.
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The creek travels 32 kilometers
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toward its confluence
with the Lamar River,
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sweeping through lush meadows and woods
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all set against the
backdrop of the mountains.
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Close to the border with
Montana is Pilot Peak,
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one of the most famous
landmarks of Yellowstone.
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Hidden from the valley
among a complex of ridges,
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we rise three-and-a-half
thousand meters above sea level
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for a rare glimpse of the pointy summit.
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It's a sight normally reserved
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for adventurous mountain climbers
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who can view the Pilot
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from nearly every major surrounding peak.
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Rounding the mountain at Beartooth Range,
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we enter the state of Montana.
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It's here we find the most remote
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of all Yellowstone Park's entry points,
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Cooke City-Silver Gate.
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Considered quite daring for its time,
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this 1935 station is now
a classic of its kind
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as well as a National Historic Landmark.
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(upbeat music)
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The Beartooth Mountains
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serve as our way into Treasure State,
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part of the National Forest
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known as the Absaroka
Beartooth Wilderness.
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Formed by the movement of
glaciers over thousands of years,
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its rugged mountains reach up
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as high as three-and-a-half
thousand meters,
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a terrain comparable to parts of Alaska.
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The craggy peaks tower over
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around 300 small pristine
lakes and high ponds.
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At these altitudes, many
of them are frozen over
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almost all year round.
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With some 25 glaciers across the range,
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the Beartooths have the
largest unbroken land mass
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higher than 3,000 meters
in mainland United States.
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(dramatic music)
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Beyond these jagged rocks
lies the highest point
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of the Beartooths and
Montana, Granite Peak.
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At nearly 4,000 meters,
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the summit is noted by climbers
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as one of the hardest
descents in the United States,
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not least for its difficult access points
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and poor weather conditions.
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Thunderstorms, crumbling rocks,
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steep cliffs with deadly drop-offs,
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all make for a treacherous adventure
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that can sometimes take three days.
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Amazingly, a nine-year-old boy
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made Montana headlines
when he joined his father
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in scaling Granite Peak in 2012.
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Tucked away amongst the
ridges of the Beartooth Range
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are these remote and serene lakes.
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It's said that the names they bear
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stem from those given to them
by the Native American tribes
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that once dwelt in this region.
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No doubt the evocative titles
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such as Lake Mystic and Froze-to-Death
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somehow reflected their experiences
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of this beautiful yet unforgiving place.
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The Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness
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is only one part of the
vast Custer National Forest.
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And as we head southwest,
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there's a distinct
change in the landscape.
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The jagged peaks and canyons give way
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to more rounded hills
topped with ponderosa pine.
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Being just 100 kilometers
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from Montana's biggest city, Billings,
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makes this eastern district of the park
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a popular recreational hunting ground
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for deer, elk, and bighorn sheep.
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The forest was once a steady food supply
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for the Plains Indians of Montana
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whose burial grounds and rock engravings
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abound in the area.
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It was also crossed by the first ever
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American expedition to the west coast,
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famously led by Lewis and Clark
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in the early 19th century.
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Today, much of the
Beartooth Ranger District
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is a strict conservation area
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with forest authorities working closely
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to regulate logging and ranching.
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(upbeat music)
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Turning south back towards Wyoming,
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our journey now follows Beartooth Pass,
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a road a CBS news
correspondent referred to
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as the most beautiful drive in America.
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Opened in 1937, the Beartooth Scenic Byway
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is an 111 kilometer stretch of road
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from Cooke City to Red Lodge, Montana,
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dipping into Wyoming along the way.
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Passengers wind through a wonderful series
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of steep zigzags and hairpin turns
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known locally as switchbacks.
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It takes an average of
three hours to drive across
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what is the highest elevation highway
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in the Northern Rockies.
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The gusty bends and challenging gradients
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are a draw for experienced cyclists
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and local companies operate guided tours
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through some of the most
dramatic sections of the pass.
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But whatever the mode of travel,
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stopping off at the many viewing platforms
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is simply irresistible.
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(dramatic music)
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Following the pass takes us through
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marked changes in the ecosystem,
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from the forested pine valleys
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to alpine tundra within
just a few kilometers.
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At this small lay-by, we cross
into the state of Wyoming.
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Here, the brutally cold climate
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makes trees and shrubs fairly scarce.
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But the vegetation that does grow
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has adapted in remarkable ways
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to be able to survive
these harsh conditions.
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Similarly, only the hardiest of creatures
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can be found at this altitude,
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like the small pika, a distant
relation to the rabbit.
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During the snow season
from October to May,
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the byway is officially closed.
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Travelers take to snowmobiles
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to enjoy Beartooth's transformation
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into a winter wonderland.
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But near the summit, the mountaintops
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are capped with snow all year round.
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With the choice of 13
national campgrounds,
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visitors are able to enjoy the
ample recreation activities
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from downhill skiing to hiking.
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Heading south takes us
over this lush plateau
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with its alpine lakes and pools.
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And it's from here we
catch our first glimpse
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of the Clarks Fork of
the Yellowstone River.
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The distinctive shape
of Sugarloaf Mountain
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towers above the Box,
the sheer walled canyon
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that earned the Clarks Fork River
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its Wild and Scenic status,
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the only such river in
Wyoming with this accolade.
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The Box contains a treacherous stretch
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that lures skilled and
daring kayakers to it.
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The run even involves
physically carrying the boat
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through bear-inhabited woods
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that are closed in by the sheer cliffs,
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a leisure activity
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not for those with a nervous disposition.
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The canyon is the third deepest
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in the continental United States.
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(dramatic music)
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Clarks Fork of Yellowstone River
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cuts through the 600 meter vertical cliffs
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of the Shoshone National
Forest for 36 kilometers
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before its confluence with
the Yellowstone near Billings.
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Further south within this vast wilderness
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is this lone manmade structure,
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the Sunlight Creek Bridge.
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Constructed to provide direct access
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from Cody to the Beartooth Highway,
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this simple one-span concrete beam bridge
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links the route across a narrow canyon.
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(upbeat music)
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Suspended over a 90-meter drop,
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the bridge is the highest
overpass in Wyoming.
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Locals claim that it holds a world record
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relating its short length
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to the depth of gorge it spans.
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It's as much a destination
as it is a bridge,
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offering spectators a dramatic view
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of the 365-meter wide canyon
carved by the Clarks Fork
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between the Beartooth Plateau
and the Absaroka Mountains.
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Completed in the 1980s,
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the name Sunlight Bridge
is actually quite ironic
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since the gorge is so narrow and deep
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that light only reaches the creek below
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for a fraction of the day.
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The bridge carries traffic
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along the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway.
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On its way south to Cody,
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it makes a circuitous course
through Dead Indian Pass.
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The winding road
eventually reaches a summit
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that serves as a memorial
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to the historic retreat
of the Nez Perce Indians.
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In 1877, they fled from
the advance of the US Army
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over these rugged high ridges.
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One legend tells that the defeated tribe
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left behind a wounded warrior
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who was later scalped
and buried by scouts.
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While other local lore
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may question the accuracy of that legend,
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few can doubt the scenic
beauty of this place.
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At the top, the reward is an overlook
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presenting an inspiring
view of Sunlight Basin,
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so-named by early 19th century prospectors
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because the only thing that
could get into this valley
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most of the year is sunlight.
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In the far distance,
it's a different story.
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Some hundred kilometers away
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from the arid desert
climate of Bighorn Basin
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is the common sight of a thunderstorm.
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But the bright skies
beyond the imposing cloud
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shows just how changeable
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the weather can be across this range.
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The Shoshone River weaves
through the Wapiti Valley,
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named after the Native
American word for elk
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which populate the region.
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We follow the north fork
of the river to its origin,
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passing dramatic rock formations
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reminiscent of one of
America's greatest painters
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of the Rocky Mountains, Thomas Moran.
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(upbeat music)
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A strong tradition that thrives
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throughout these foothills
of the Wapiti Valley
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is horseback riding.
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Visitors seeking authentic
cowboy experience
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stay at several dude
ranches that dot the area.
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Guests can choose to take
part in cattle drives
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or simple ride off for the day
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into the serene wilderness.
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It's a truly western way
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of enjoying the sights of Wyoming.
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We enter Buffalo Bill State Park
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in the eastern section of
the Absaroka Mountains.
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Here, the altitude drops to 1,400 meters
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as we get ever closer to the city of Cody.
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This striking landscape was formed
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from volcanic activity
some 50 million years ago.
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As a result of glaciers, water,
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and the relative softness of the rocks,
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the Absarokas appear very craggy.
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The constant forces of erosion
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cut deep U-shaped valleys
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00:17:26,460 --> 00:17:29,353
with steep slopes and jagged outcrops.
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00:17:30,400 --> 00:17:33,900
Some of these formations
are extinct geyser cones
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00:17:33,900 --> 00:17:36,073
that stand nearly 10 meters.
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00:17:40,030 --> 00:17:42,570
At the heart of Buffalo Bill State Park
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00:17:42,570 --> 00:17:44,853
is its reservoir of the same name.
268
00:17:45,950 --> 00:17:47,940
Buffalo Bill was the nickname
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00:17:47,940 --> 00:17:51,860
of 19th century soldier
and showman William Cody,
270
00:17:51,860 --> 00:17:54,633
who owned much of the land
before it was flooded.
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00:17:56,120 --> 00:17:58,810
Cody's vision was to irrigate the region
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00:17:58,810 --> 00:18:00,660
and turn it into productive farmland.
273
00:18:03,460 --> 00:18:06,710
But the area was later acquired
by the Federal Government
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00:18:06,710 --> 00:18:09,713
who implemented this
massive reservoir project.
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00:18:10,860 --> 00:18:14,400
Today, the water here supplies
four irrigation districts
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00:18:14,400 --> 00:18:16,673
comprising 38,000 hectares.
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00:18:20,350 --> 00:18:22,010
The Buffalo Bill Dam,
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00:18:22,010 --> 00:18:24,650
named in honor of the Wyoming pioneer,
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00:18:24,650 --> 00:18:27,383
was a marvel of engineering for its time.
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00:18:28,690 --> 00:18:31,450
When it was constructed in 1910,
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00:18:31,450 --> 00:18:35,130
it was the highest concrete
dam in the United States,
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00:18:35,130 --> 00:18:38,070
standing almost 100 meters.
283
00:18:38,070 --> 00:18:42,853
In 1985, it was extended
by a further eight meters.
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00:18:44,420 --> 00:18:47,960
The Shoshone proved to be
a difficult river to dam,
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00:18:47,960 --> 00:18:51,560
draining a mountainous area
that falls 2,000 meters
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00:18:51,560 --> 00:18:53,173
before reaching this canyon.
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00:18:54,170 --> 00:18:56,590
Several major floods carried boulders
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00:18:56,590 --> 00:18:59,070
and uprooted trees to the site,
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00:18:59,070 --> 00:19:01,570
destroying early farming.
290
00:19:01,570 --> 00:19:05,120
Seven men were killed during
the harsh working conditions,
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00:19:05,120 --> 00:19:08,203
leading to the first
strike in Wyoming history.
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00:19:11,320 --> 00:19:13,010
A slight detour brings us
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00:19:13,010 --> 00:19:16,130
to a fascinating geological feature,
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00:19:16,130 --> 00:19:17,995
Heart Mountain.
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00:19:17,995 --> 00:19:21,260
(dramatic music)
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00:19:21,260 --> 00:19:25,200
Its distinctive cap, at
two-and-a-half thousand meters,
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00:19:25,200 --> 00:19:28,310
is made up of limestone and dolomite rocks
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00:19:28,310 --> 00:19:31,963
that are nearly 350 million years old.
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00:19:33,950 --> 00:19:37,400
Interestingly, they poke out
of the base of the mountain
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00:19:37,400 --> 00:19:40,643
which is only a mere 55 million years old.
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00:19:44,960 --> 00:19:47,380
How this geological oddity was formed
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00:19:47,380 --> 00:19:49,550
goes back to around that time,
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00:19:49,550 --> 00:19:51,840
when tremendous volcanic forces
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00:19:51,840 --> 00:19:54,023
were shaping the Earth's landscape.
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00:19:56,330 --> 00:19:59,830
But the actual story
starts 40 kilometers away
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00:19:59,830 --> 00:20:01,820
at Beartooth Plateau,
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00:20:01,820 --> 00:20:04,480
where a four-kilometer-thick sheet of rock
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00:20:04,480 --> 00:20:08,620
covering 1,300 square
kilometers broke away,
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00:20:08,620 --> 00:20:12,483
picking up speeds of up
to 160 kilometers an hour.
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00:20:14,660 --> 00:20:18,300
It took just 30 minutes
for the rock to arrive
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00:20:18,300 --> 00:20:19,853
and settle in this spot.
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00:20:20,920 --> 00:20:24,670
By far, this is the largest
ever known rockslide
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00:20:24,670 --> 00:20:26,653
to have occurred on land.
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00:20:29,870 --> 00:20:33,030
Over the 48 million
years since the landslip,
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00:20:33,030 --> 00:20:36,000
erosion has removed most of the sheet,
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00:20:36,000 --> 00:20:38,770
exposing the rock that was once buried
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00:20:38,770 --> 00:20:40,573
deep in the Earth's crust.
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00:20:42,700 --> 00:20:46,530
The Crow Indians named
the mass Heart Mountain,
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00:20:46,530 --> 00:20:49,023
comparing it to the heart of a buffalo.
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00:20:51,622 --> 00:20:53,360
The peak is also significant
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00:20:53,360 --> 00:20:56,640
as it was a major landmark
featured in the maps
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00:20:56,640 --> 00:20:59,730
of the legendary explorers Lewis and Clark
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00:20:59,730 --> 00:21:00,983
in the early 1800s.
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00:21:05,860 --> 00:21:07,690
We continue our journey along a stretch
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00:21:07,690 --> 00:21:11,682
of the Shoshone River
that leads us to Cody.
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00:21:11,682 --> 00:21:13,760
(upbeat music)
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00:21:13,760 --> 00:21:16,070
Whilst the city grew as a gateway town
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00:21:16,070 --> 00:21:18,010
to Yellowstone National Park,
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00:21:18,010 --> 00:21:22,243
its roots lie firmly in
cowboy and western traditions.
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00:21:23,820 --> 00:21:27,030
Yet the town does have some
charming modern features
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00:21:27,030 --> 00:21:31,520
such as the Northwest College
Campus in the heart of Cody
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00:21:31,520 --> 00:21:33,560
which serves as an outreach school
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00:21:33,560 --> 00:21:35,930
for the University of Wyoming.
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00:21:35,930 --> 00:21:40,070
A far older landmark is
the Park County Courthouse.
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00:21:40,070 --> 00:21:42,420
It's been holding official proceedings
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00:21:42,420 --> 00:21:45,373
ever since it was built in 1912.
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00:21:47,060 --> 00:21:49,220
The Buffalo Bill Historical Center
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00:21:49,220 --> 00:21:52,410
has five museums and a research library
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00:21:52,410 --> 00:21:55,200
all dedicated to preserving the spirit
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00:21:55,200 --> 00:21:59,340
of the American West and
the legacy of William Cody.
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00:21:59,340 --> 00:22:02,440
The New York Times declared this complex
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00:22:02,440 --> 00:22:05,653
as one of the nation's
most remarkable museums.
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00:22:07,690 --> 00:22:11,650
The town's only major
motorway leads over Beck Lake
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00:22:11,650 --> 00:22:14,020
and past the Veteran's Memorial Park
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00:22:15,030 --> 00:22:17,110
where Cody proudly commemorates
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00:22:17,110 --> 00:22:19,150
the dedicated citizens who fought
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00:22:19,150 --> 00:22:21,003
for the American Armed Forces.
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00:22:22,860 --> 00:22:25,530
The park includes
several granite monuments
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00:22:25,530 --> 00:22:28,580
that honor World War II, Vietnam,
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00:22:28,580 --> 00:22:31,860
Korea, and the Gulf War veterans.
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00:22:31,860 --> 00:22:34,850
The entrance has a dedication to a Marine
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00:22:34,850 --> 00:22:36,190
who was the first American
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00:22:36,190 --> 00:22:38,920
to lose his life in the Iraq War,
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00:22:38,920 --> 00:22:41,793
also naming the street in his honor.
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00:22:44,840 --> 00:22:49,840
Buffalo Bill erected
the Irma Hotel in 1902.
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00:22:50,270 --> 00:22:51,830
Named after his daughter,
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00:22:51,830 --> 00:22:55,373
it quickly acquired fame
for its caliber of guests.
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00:22:56,810 --> 00:22:59,100
Today, visitors can stay in rooms
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00:22:59,100 --> 00:23:02,870
occupied by such legends as Calamity Jane
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00:23:02,870 --> 00:23:07,567
and arguably, America's first
ever celebrity, Annie Oakley.
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00:23:09,470 --> 00:23:11,810
Visitors can also settle in for drinks
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00:23:11,810 --> 00:23:13,900
at the Silver Saddle Saloon
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00:23:13,900 --> 00:23:17,480
which features a cherry wood
bar given to Buffalo Bill
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00:23:17,480 --> 00:23:20,363
by Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom.
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00:23:24,120 --> 00:23:26,570
The last leg of our journey takes us over
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00:23:26,570 --> 00:23:29,803
the semi-arid wilderness of Bighorn Basin.
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00:23:31,610 --> 00:23:33,730
More than just a National Park,
368
00:23:33,730 --> 00:23:36,580
it's also a rich source of fossil fuel,
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00:23:36,580 --> 00:23:39,133
making it vital to the region's economy.
370
00:23:43,380 --> 00:23:46,930
The heart of Bighorn Canyon
National Recreational Area
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00:23:46,930 --> 00:23:48,720
is this reservoir.
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00:23:48,720 --> 00:23:51,710
Long and narrow, Bighorn Lake stretches
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00:23:51,710 --> 00:23:53,580
the full length of the canyon,
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00:23:53,580 --> 00:23:56,744
straddling the Wyoming-Montana border.
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00:23:56,744 --> 00:24:00,250
(dramatic music)
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00:24:00,250 --> 00:24:04,030
Conservation has made this
place a premier fishing spot,
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00:24:04,030 --> 00:24:06,783
though it hasn't been
without its controversies.
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00:24:09,070 --> 00:24:12,560
Water allocation between
the two neighboring states
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00:24:12,560 --> 00:24:14,000
has been an issue,
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00:24:14,000 --> 00:24:17,163
as well as the reservoir's
effect on the Bighorn River.
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00:24:21,640 --> 00:24:24,560
The American Congress official established
382
00:24:24,560 --> 00:24:29,140
this territory as a National
Recreation Area in 1965
383
00:24:29,140 --> 00:24:31,800
when the construction
of the Yellowtail Dam
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00:24:31,800 --> 00:24:34,393
harnessed the flow of Bighorn River.
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00:24:36,550 --> 00:24:39,440
And its here that we finish our journey,
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00:24:39,440 --> 00:24:41,163
back in the state of Montana.
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00:24:43,260 --> 00:24:47,270
Bighorn Lake snakes through
these immense canyon walls
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00:24:47,270 --> 00:24:49,983
for almost 115 kilometers.
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00:24:51,870 --> 00:24:54,050
The recreation area offers visitors
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00:24:54,050 --> 00:24:58,150
a tranquil setting to
explore nature, wildlife,
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00:24:58,150 --> 00:25:01,390
and even the prehistoric Bad Pass Trail
392
00:25:01,390 --> 00:25:03,393
that flanks the western side.
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00:25:05,320 --> 00:25:08,960
One of the highlights is
Devils Canyon Overlook
394
00:25:08,960 --> 00:25:12,320
where guests can view the
confluence of two canyons
395
00:25:12,320 --> 00:25:16,053
which tower 300 meters above the waters.
396
00:25:17,130 --> 00:25:18,770
Once a flat surface,
397
00:25:18,770 --> 00:25:22,600
forces have carved the
massive walls of this gorge,
398
00:25:22,600 --> 00:25:26,640
presenting some of Mother
Nature's most spectacular work
399
00:25:26,640 --> 00:25:29,993
and a magnificent place
to end this journey.
400
00:25:33,674 --> 00:25:36,257
(upbeat music)
401
00:25:56,287 --> 00:25:58,870
(logo booming)
31166
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