Original subtitles

(air whooshing)

(adventurous music)

- Our journey begins

amongst the clouded tops of the Mourne Mountains.

From there we travel to Strangford Lough.

and the historic town of Killyleagh.

We make our way to Belfast

where we discover some of the city's

most impressive landmarks.

Then it's on to Carrickfergus Castle,

before heading inland to Lough Neagh

Ireland's largest freshwater lake.

We then travel to the Antrim Coast

where we discover one of Northern Ireland's

most famous natural landmarks, the Giant's Causeway.

(xylophone music)

After a quick visit to Portrush,

we discover more ancient ruins along the coast.

And from Derry, one of Ireland's

last remaining walled cities,

we complete our journey at Devenish Island's monastery,

that goes back over a thousand years.

(instrumental music)

Looking out over the Irish Sea,

these rugged mountains and lush fertile slopes

have fired the imaginations of countless generations.

But the mists that frequently surround these peaks,

serve only to heighten the regions mystique.

Moist sea winds for these orographic clouds

as air is forced rapidly upwards against the slopes.

More that just a landscape

the Mourne Mountains have shaped the way of life here.

They are also said to be

the influence for the CS Lewis novel,

The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe.

More recently, they provided the filming location

for the popular series, Game of Thrones.

This small, compact range extends for nearly 15 kilometers.

Rising 850 meters at its tallest peak.

Tales of smugglers from the 18th and 19th centuries

who trekked through the Mourne's

carting tobacco and silk are still popular.

Their route was so widely used

that the path still exists today.

However, centuries of farming

have had a far greater impact on life in this region.

Plans to designate the area

as Northern Ireland's first national park

have been met with resistance from some locals.

More than a thousand farmers tend lands

within the proposed boundary.

With plots that are smaller

and more numerous than anywhere else in Europe.

Our journey continues to Strangford Lough.

The largest tidal inlet in the whole of the United Kingdom.

At each tide, 350 million cubic meters of water

pass through a narrow channel

measuring only about 500 meters across.

The first human inhabitants arrived 9000 years ago.

And the small community of Killyleagh

has been here for centuries.

The town prospered as a coaching station

and its linen mill became a vital part

of Northern Ireland's economy in the early 20th century.

The towns most iconic landmark is Killyleagh Castle.

Probably the oldest inhabited fortress in the country.

The original structure was built in the mid-12th century

by John de Courcy, the Norman conqueror of the region.

Of course, improvements have been added over the years.

The castles soaring turrets and stalwart battlements

were designed in the architectural style

of a French chateau.

Stretching more than 40 kilometers,

Strangford Lough is studded with islands,

hidden coves, rocky outcrops, and sheltered inlets.

Ship building and fishing

were once essential local industries.

Today, residents and visitors alike,

enjoy the numerous sailing clubs

and boat races throughout the area.

The patron saint of Ireland, Saint Patrick,

is said to have sailed across these waters in 432 AD,

bringing Christianity and forever changing

the course of Irish history.

Today, this vast area of sand flats is one of only three

designated marine nature reserves in the United Kingdom.

Teaming with a diverse assortment of wildlife,

it serves as breeding grounds

for thousands of migratory sea birds.

Across the water, on the northern shores,

we discover a gem hidden among the trees.

Mount Stewart House.

Once the home of the Marquesses of Londonderry.

When Edith Vane-Tempest-Stewart

married into the family in 1899,

it wasn't so much

the plainness of the house that dismayed her.

It was the expanse of drab lawns which surrounded it.

In the 1920s, she set out to transform the estate.

Sparing no expense.

And the result was one of the finest gardens in Europe.

Taking advice from the foremost horticulturists of the day,

she assembled an unrivaled collection

of rare and exotic plants.

Though mainly Mediterranean in style,

it's best known feature is distinctly Irish.

A shamrock garden, with its topiaries and a red hand.

An ancient Gaelic symbol for this province of Ulster.

The Marchioness nurtured her green fairy land,

as she called it,

right up until the 1950s

when she gave it to the National Trust

for future generations to enjoy.

Her beloved gardens are also her final resting place,

here in the family burial grounds

beside the artificial lake.

Today, Mount Stewart is one of the most

visited gardens in Northern Ireland,

and has been nominated as a World Heritage site.

Just across the lake from Mount Stewart

stands a 41 meter structure known as Scrabo Tower.

This replica of the Scottish watchtowers

found along the border

was constructed entirely of dolerite

and sandstone taken from Scrabo Hill.

It commemorates one of Northern Ireland's

most beloved public figures,

the third Marquess of Londonderry.

Charles William Vane was a general

during the Napoleonic wars,

and a distinguished diplomat.

But it's the kindness and generosity shown to his tenants

during the Potato Famine, for which he is most revered.

The Marquess died in 1854,

and the tower was erected in his honor three years later.

Our journey now leads us just east of the capital, Belfast,

to the mile-long Prince Of Wales Avenue.

here we find Stormont

where the country's most pressing political matters

have been playing out for decades.

Plans for construction began in 1921

to house Northern Ireland's newly established government.

Stormont officially opened in 1932.

It measures exactly 365 feet across,

one for every day of the year.

The rolling lawns, flower beds, and winding forest paths,

which surround the estate,

offer occupants and visitors a quiet setting

for a peaceful stroll around the grounds.

Today, Stormont stands as a proud symbol of the government.

And across the capital city, in the heart of Belfast,

we encounter two unlikely icons of industry.

Known affectionately as Samson and Goliath,

these gantry cranes have become fixtures

in the collective consciousness of modern Belfast.

They dominate the city skyline,

and represent a trade linked in some way

to nearly every local family.

It was an industry that began in the early 1800s.

By that time the city had become a major shipping port.

And the establishment of a construction giant

Harland and Wolff in 1861,

catapulted Belfast towards a new level of global success.

The first crane, Goliath, was completed in 1969,

followed by Samson, the larger of the two, in 1974.

The were monumental achievements.

At 840 tons, their combined lifting capacity

is one of the greatest in the world.

In 1995, Samson and Goliath were declared historic monuments

and archeological objects.

Yet despite all this,

they are actually only part of a greater heritage.

The White Star Lines entire fleet of ocean liners

including the ill-fated Titanic, were built here.

The city's success led to a construction boom

and a legacy of great architecture.

Sinclair Seamen's church, built in 1857,

is one such example.

But Belfast has roots going back centuries.

The towns original charter was granted in 1613.

It continued to grow and by 1888 was awarded

the status of a city by Queen Victoria.

City Hall was built to celebrate this accolade.

With its Portland stone for sod and great copper dome,

this building was set to become

one of Belfast's most famous landmarks.

(elegant music)

Another treasure is the Albert Memorial Clock.

The Gothic style tower was erected in 1865

and overlooks the Customs House,

the city's main outdoor site

for free concerts and street entertainment.

But for indoor events there's the new

and prestigious Waterfront Hall, completed in 1997.

Such redevelopment projects have ushered in

a new era of modern architecture.

Demonstrating Belfast's determination for forge ahead

and embrace the future.

But reminders of centuries past are never far away.

We travel north over the billowing sea mist

toward the town of Carrickfergus.

(graceful music)

It's here we discover the ancient ruins of the towns castle.

The fortress remained in service

for seven and a half centuries.

Making it the longest running active garrison in Ireland.

It was originally built in 1177, by John de Courcy.

Concerns over his increasing power

led to his forced removal in 1205.

However, his replacement,

Hugh de Lacy, so antagonized the crown

that de Courcy was eventually reinstated.

And so began his long and tumultuous history.

Undergoing numerous additions

and alterations over the years.

The castles' service was finally ended in 1928.

And today, it remains one of Northern Ireland's

most fascinating attractions.

The sea mist clears as we head inland,

passing back over Belfast,

to our next destination, Lough Neagh.

At 29 kilometers long, and seven kilometers wide,

this is the largest freshwater lake in the British Isles.

And the third largest in Europe.

Legend holds that the mythical 16 meter giant,

Finn McCool, created Lough Neagh

when he scooped up a handful of earth to hurl at his rival.

Nearby, Belfast International Airport,

commonly known as Aldergrove,

began as the training establishment

for the Royal Flying Corp during the first world war.

The site remained the exclusive home

of Northern Ireland's special reserve unit,

No. 502 Squadron of the Royal Air Force

until the airport was restructured to include civil

and commercial flights in the 1960s.

Now more than five million passengers

fly through the airport each year.

Lough Neagh was formed 20,000 years ago

by melting glaciers at the end of the last ice age,

and covers roughly 400 square kilometers.

This major water source for Belfast

has been an integral part of life in the surrounding area.

In 1976, it was recognized as a wetland

of international importance

to help ensure its protection for generations to come.

Traveling further inland,

we find an intriguing remnant of Ireland's ancient past.

Megalithic monuments dating back thousands of years

were found buried beneath the peat in the 1930s.

The Beaghmore Stone Circles range from a few centimeters

to nearly two meters in height.

The stone rings each appear to be part of a pattern.

So far seven circle and nine rows have been discovered.

And recent excavations have revealed burials

within some of the stone piles.

Experts have several theories regarding the origin

and meaning of the monuments.

One possibility is the site is lunar observatory

used to calculate dates.

To some the lines appear to mark field borders

and may predate the circles.

It's also thought that the structures were erected

as part of a ritual to restore fertility to the soil.

Whatever their purpose,

these monuments remain an enigmatic reminder

of this lands ancient past.

Our journey now leads us north,

to the country's most famous natural wonder.

The Giants Causeway.

This striking landscape has inspired

the imaginations of people for centuries.

Popular legend claims that the giant Finn McCool

built the causeway to keep his feet dry

as he crossed the Irish Sea to Scotland

to confront his rival Benandonner.

But losing his nerve,

he turned and fled home with his arch enemy in hot pursuit.

In a clever ruse Finns wife, Oona,

disguised him as a baby.

When Benandonner caught sight of the enormous infant

he fled in terror at the thought of encountering

the father of such a gigantic child.

And tore up the causeway in the panic to get away.

A more plausible explanation for its creation

is given by geologists.

65 million years ago,

lava from volcanic eruptions poured over a chalky surface.

Cracks formed in the slowly cooling rock

and as time passed flowing water carved out

the magnificent patterns we see today.

The 40 thousand interlocking columns have up to eight sides.

Four or five being the most common.

However, a popular activity amongst visitors

is the hunt for the very few with only three sides.

This natural monument

has been attracting visitors for centuries.

But after a period of paid admission in the 1900s,

the Giants Causeway was finally bequeathed

to the National Trust.

Once again granting free access to the public.

In 1986, it was declared Ireland's first

UNESCO World Heritage site.

The Trust has continued to acquire adjoining land

and today owns 70 hectares of the cliffs and foreshore

of Northern Ireland's greatest tourist attraction.

Further along the Antrim Coast,

perched high on a sheer basalt cliff

is the mysterious Dunluce Castle.

Evidence suggests that some parts

date back to the 14th century.

It was forcefully taken sometime in the mid-1500s

by the McDonnell's who are still the owners.

Recent excavations of the surrounding area

have revealed an incredibly well-preserved merchant town,

dating to the early 17th century.

The dig uncovered cobbled streets, wine glass stems,

and even dress fastenings.

All signs of the prosperity that was once enjoyed here.

But it was the absence of the nearby tradeport

that ultimately doomed the settlement to failure.

(flute music)

At the base of the cliff

is the cavern known as Mermaids Cave.

Legend holds that an eloping couple met a tragic end

when their boat was smashed against the rocks.

The young woman's ghost is said to haunt

the prison tower overlooking the sea.

Like Mermaids Cave,

the arches and columns along the coast

have been carved by the elements.

The soft chalk deposits that have disappeared

from most of Ireland over the millennia

have survived here beneath a shell of volcanic rock.

In some places the lava has eroded

to reveal layers more that 300 million years old.

As we continue our tour of the northern coast

we arrive at this kilometer long peninsula at Portrush.

The town began as a small fishing village

but was transformed into a seaside resort destination

after the arrival of the railway in the 1800s.

It holds an annual celebration

in honor of the notorious Scottish pirate, Tavish Dhu,

who helped defend Portrush from an enemy attack

back in the 14th century.

Continuing wast along this dramatic and varied coastline,

is one of Northern Ireland's

most treasured historic buildings, Mussenden Temple.

(soft instrumental music)

The structure has been perched atop the 36 meter cliff

since its construction in the 1780s.

Inspired by the Temple of Vesta in Tivoli near Rome,

it's served as a summer library for its owner,

Frederick Augustus Hervey, the fourth earl of Bristol.

Set back from the shoreline

are the ruins of his palace

that once stood at the heart of a grand estate.

(violin music)

Controversially for the time,

Hervey was an outspoken supporter of religious equality.

Though he won the respect of many church leaders in Ireland,

ongoing religious tensions left him disheartened.

Departing for Europe,

he spent the last of his days in Italy

where he was imprisoned on spying charges.

But the Earls legacy and love of architecture remain.

Though only just.

The coast has eroded by nine meters

since the temples construction.

And it was dangerously close to falling into the sea.

Reassuringly, for the thousands of annual visitors,

a massive project was undertaken in 1997

to stabilize the cliff.

(calm music)

The mild, humid conditions of this rolling landscape,

ensure lush greens all year round.

Northern Ireland's temperate maritime climate

produces average temperatures between three and 18 degrees.

It's no wonder that today's city of Derry

is one of the oldest to continuously inhabit

its settlements in Ireland.

The term, Derry, comes from the old Irish word

meaning oak grove surrounded by water.

Oak groves were sacred to the ancient Celts.

And legends about these tress have survived ever since.

After the English Conquest

and colonization of the region

around the turn of the 17th century,

these massive stone walls were built

to protect the newcomers from attack.

In 1613, King James the first of England

granted this place the status of a city.

Renaming it Londonderry.

Though remaining the official name,

it is still best known as simply, Derry.

Today it's Northern Ireland's

only remaining completely walled city,

and one of the finest examples in all of Europe.

Synonymous with the landscape of Northern Ireland,

are its spectacular system of lakes.

And it's here we find the last stop on our journey.

On the small island of Devenish in lower Lough Erne

these are the ruins of Devenish Monastery,

founded in the 16th century by Saint Molaise.

Legend holds that while resting from his labors,

Malaise became spellbound by a singing bird.

When he emerged from the enchantment after 100 years,

the monastery had been built.

It's a magical story.

The place is early Irish Christian beliefs

deep within ancient Celtic traditions.

The distinctive round tower

is amongst the oldest of the ruins,

dating back to the 12th century.

For over a thousand years,

this monastery was regarded

as the most important in the province of Ulster.

Today it stands as a splendid monument

to the story of this ancient and mystical land.

A perfect place to end this journey.

(flute music)

(energetic music)

(logo whooshing)