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(air whooshing)
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(adventurous music)
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- Our journey begins
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amongst the clouded tops
of the Mourne Mountains.
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From there we travel to Strangford Lough.
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and the historic town of Killyleagh.
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We make our way to Belfast
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where we discover some of the city's
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most impressive landmarks.
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Then it's on to Carrickfergus Castle,
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before heading inland to Lough Neagh
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Ireland's largest freshwater lake.
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We then travel to the Antrim Coast
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where we discover one
of Northern Ireland's
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most famous natural landmarks,
the Giant's Causeway.
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(xylophone music)
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After a quick visit to Portrush,
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we discover more ancient
ruins along the coast.
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And from Derry, one of Ireland's
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last remaining walled cities,
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we complete our journey at
Devenish Island's monastery,
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that goes back over a thousand years.
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(instrumental music)
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Looking out over the Irish Sea,
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these rugged mountains
and lush fertile slopes
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have fired the imaginations
of countless generations.
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But the mists that frequently
surround these peaks,
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serve only to heighten
the regions mystique.
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Moist sea winds for
these orographic clouds
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as air is forced rapidly
upwards against the slopes.
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More that just a landscape
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the Mourne Mountains have
shaped the way of life here.
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They are also said to be
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the influence for the CS Lewis novel,
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The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe.
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More recently, they provided
the filming location
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for the popular series, Game of Thrones.
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This small, compact range
extends for nearly 15 kilometers.
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Rising 850 meters at its tallest peak.
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Tales of smugglers from
the 18th and 19th centuries
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who trekked through the Mourne's
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carting tobacco and
silk are still popular.
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Their route was so widely used
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that the path still exists today.
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However, centuries of farming
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have had a far greater impact
on life in this region.
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Plans to designate the area
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as Northern Ireland's first national park
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have been met with
resistance from some locals.
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More than a thousand farmers tend lands
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within the proposed boundary.
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With plots that are smaller
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and more numerous than
anywhere else in Europe.
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Our journey continues to Strangford Lough.
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The largest tidal inlet in the
whole of the United Kingdom.
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At each tide, 350 million
cubic meters of water
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pass through a narrow channel
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measuring only about 500 meters across.
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The first human inhabitants
arrived 9000 years ago.
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And the small community of Killyleagh
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has been here for centuries.
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The town prospered as a coaching station
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and its linen mill became a vital part
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of Northern Ireland's economy
in the early 20th century.
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The towns most iconic
landmark is Killyleagh Castle.
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Probably the oldest inhabited
fortress in the country.
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The original structure was
built in the mid-12th century
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by John de Courcy, the Norman
conqueror of the region.
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Of course, improvements have
been added over the years.
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The castles soaring turrets
and stalwart battlements
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were designed in the architectural style
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of a French chateau.
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Stretching more than 40 kilometers,
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Strangford Lough is studded with islands,
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hidden coves, rocky outcrops,
and sheltered inlets.
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Ship building and fishing
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were once essential local industries.
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Today, residents and visitors alike,
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enjoy the numerous sailing clubs
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and boat races throughout the area.
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The patron saint of
Ireland, Saint Patrick,
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is said to have sailed across
these waters in 432 AD,
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bringing Christianity and forever changing
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the course of Irish history.
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Today, this vast area of sand
flats is one of only three
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designated marine nature
reserves in the United Kingdom.
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Teaming with a diverse
assortment of wildlife,
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it serves as breeding grounds
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for thousands of migratory sea birds.
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Across the water, on the northern shores,
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we discover a gem hidden among the trees.
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Mount Stewart House.
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Once the home of the
Marquesses of Londonderry.
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When Edith Vane-Tempest-Stewart
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married into the family in 1899,
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it wasn't so much
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the plainness of the
house that dismayed her.
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It was the expanse of drab
lawns which surrounded it.
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In the 1920s, she set out
to transform the estate.
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Sparing no expense.
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And the result was one of
the finest gardens in Europe.
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Taking advice from the foremost
horticulturists of the day,
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she assembled an unrivaled collection
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of rare and exotic plants.
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Though mainly Mediterranean in style,
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it's best known feature
is distinctly Irish.
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A shamrock garden, with its
topiaries and a red hand.
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An ancient Gaelic symbol
for this province of Ulster.
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The Marchioness nurtured
her green fairy land,
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as she called it,
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right up until the 1950s
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when she gave it to the National Trust
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for future generations to enjoy.
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Her beloved gardens are also
her final resting place,
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here in the family burial grounds
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beside the artificial lake.
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Today, Mount Stewart is one of the most
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visited gardens in Northern Ireland,
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and has been nominated
as a World Heritage site.
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Just across the lake from Mount Stewart
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stands a 41 meter structure
known as Scrabo Tower.
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This replica of the Scottish watchtowers
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found along the border
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was constructed entirely of dolerite
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and sandstone taken from Scrabo Hill.
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00:08:08,890 --> 00:08:10,530
It commemorates one of Northern Ireland's
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most beloved public figures,
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the third Marquess of Londonderry.
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Charles William Vane was a general
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during the Napoleonic wars,
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and a distinguished diplomat.
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But it's the kindness and
generosity shown to his tenants
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during the Potato Famine,
for which he is most revered.
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The Marquess died in 1854,
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and the tower was erected in
his honor three years later.
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Our journey now leads us just
east of the capital, Belfast,
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to the mile-long Prince Of Wales Avenue.
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here we find Stormont
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where the country's most
pressing political matters
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have been playing out for decades.
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Plans for construction began in 1921
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to house Northern Ireland's
newly established government.
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Stormont officially opened in 1932.
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It measures exactly 365 feet across,
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one for every day of the year.
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The rolling lawns, flower
beds, and winding forest paths,
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which surround the estate,
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offer occupants and
visitors a quiet setting
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for a peaceful stroll around the grounds.
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Today, Stormont stands as a
proud symbol of the government.
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00:09:36,730 --> 00:09:40,270
And across the capital city,
in the heart of Belfast,
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we encounter two unlikely
icons of industry.
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Known affectionately
as Samson and Goliath,
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these gantry cranes have become fixtures
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in the collective consciousness
of modern Belfast.
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They dominate the city skyline,
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and represent a trade linked in some way
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to nearly every local family.
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00:10:04,080 --> 00:10:07,720
It was an industry that
began in the early 1800s.
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00:10:07,720 --> 00:10:10,803
By that time the city had
become a major shipping port.
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00:10:12,720 --> 00:10:15,300
And the establishment
of a construction giant
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Harland and Wolff in 1861,
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catapulted Belfast towards a
new level of global success.
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The first crane, Goliath,
was completed in 1969,
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followed by Samson, the
larger of the two, in 1974.
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The were monumental achievements.
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At 840 tons, their
combined lifting capacity
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is one of the greatest in the world.
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In 1995, Samson and Goliath
were declared historic monuments
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and archeological objects.
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Yet despite all this,
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they are actually only
part of a greater heritage.
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The White Star Lines entire
fleet of ocean liners
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including the ill-fated
Titanic, were built here.
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The city's success led
to a construction boom
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and a legacy of great architecture.
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Sinclair Seamen's church, built in 1857,
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is one such example.
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But Belfast has roots
going back centuries.
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The towns original charter
was granted in 1613.
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It continued to grow
and by 1888 was awarded
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the status of a city by Queen Victoria.
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City Hall was built to
celebrate this accolade.
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00:11:44,860 --> 00:11:48,940
With its Portland stone for
sod and great copper dome,
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this building was set to become
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one of Belfast's most famous landmarks.
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(elegant music)
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Another treasure is the
Albert Memorial Clock.
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The Gothic style tower was erected in 1865
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and overlooks the Customs House,
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the city's main outdoor site
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for free concerts and
street entertainment.
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But for indoor events there's the new
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00:12:20,560 --> 00:12:24,653
and prestigious Waterfront
Hall, completed in 1997.
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00:12:27,340 --> 00:12:29,970
Such redevelopment
projects have ushered in
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00:12:29,970 --> 00:12:32,540
a new era of modern architecture.
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00:12:32,540 --> 00:12:35,990
Demonstrating Belfast's
determination for forge ahead
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and embrace the future.
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But reminders of centuries
past are never far away.
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We travel north over
the billowing sea mist
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toward the town of Carrickfergus.
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(graceful music)
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It's here we discover the ancient
ruins of the towns castle.
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The fortress remained in service
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00:13:01,370 --> 00:13:03,300
for seven and a half centuries.
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Making it the longest running
active garrison in Ireland.
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It was originally built in
1177, by John de Courcy.
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00:13:13,620 --> 00:13:16,040
Concerns over his increasing power
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led to his forced removal in 1205.
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00:13:20,300 --> 00:13:21,910
However, his replacement,
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00:13:21,910 --> 00:13:25,460
Hugh de Lacy, so antagonized the crown
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that de Courcy was eventually reinstated.
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00:13:30,250 --> 00:13:33,300
And so began his long
and tumultuous history.
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00:13:33,300 --> 00:13:35,080
Undergoing numerous additions
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00:13:35,080 --> 00:13:37,283
and alterations over the years.
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The castles' service was
finally ended in 1928.
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00:13:44,800 --> 00:13:47,330
And today, it remains
one of Northern Ireland's
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00:13:47,330 --> 00:13:49,253
most fascinating attractions.
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The sea mist clears as we head inland,
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passing back over Belfast,
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00:13:57,460 --> 00:13:59,943
to our next destination, Lough Neagh.
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00:14:00,991 --> 00:14:04,930
At 29 kilometers long,
and seven kilometers wide,
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00:14:04,930 --> 00:14:08,890
this is the largest freshwater
lake in the British Isles.
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And the third largest in Europe.
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00:14:11,230 --> 00:14:14,650
Legend holds that the
mythical 16 meter giant,
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00:14:14,650 --> 00:14:17,580
Finn McCool, created Lough Neagh
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00:14:17,580 --> 00:14:22,323
when he scooped up a handful
of earth to hurl at his rival.
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00:14:24,510 --> 00:14:27,960
Nearby, Belfast International Airport,
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00:14:27,960 --> 00:14:30,490
commonly known as Aldergrove,
230
00:14:30,490 --> 00:14:32,230
began as the training establishment
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00:14:32,230 --> 00:14:36,280
for the Royal Flying Corp
during the first world war.
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00:14:36,280 --> 00:14:38,450
The site remained the exclusive home
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00:14:38,450 --> 00:14:40,880
of Northern Ireland's
special reserve unit,
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00:14:40,880 --> 00:14:44,850
No. 502 Squadron of the Royal Air Force
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00:14:44,850 --> 00:14:48,110
until the airport was
restructured to include civil
236
00:14:48,110 --> 00:14:50,883
and commercial flights in the 1960s.
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00:14:51,750 --> 00:14:54,660
Now more than five million passengers
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00:14:54,660 --> 00:14:56,603
fly through the airport each year.
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00:14:59,060 --> 00:15:02,610
Lough Neagh was formed 20,000 years ago
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00:15:02,610 --> 00:15:06,260
by melting glaciers at the
end of the last ice age,
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00:15:06,260 --> 00:15:09,653
and covers roughly 400 square kilometers.
242
00:15:10,640 --> 00:15:13,220
This major water source for Belfast
243
00:15:13,220 --> 00:15:16,403
has been an integral part of
life in the surrounding area.
244
00:15:20,480 --> 00:15:24,070
In 1976, it was recognized as a wetland
245
00:15:24,070 --> 00:15:26,230
of international importance
246
00:15:26,230 --> 00:15:29,253
to help ensure its protection
for generations to come.
247
00:15:36,180 --> 00:15:37,900
Traveling further inland,
248
00:15:37,900 --> 00:15:41,923
we find an intriguing remnant
of Ireland's ancient past.
249
00:15:42,890 --> 00:15:46,530
Megalithic monuments dating
back thousands of years
250
00:15:46,530 --> 00:15:50,123
were found buried beneath
the peat in the 1930s.
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00:15:51,040 --> 00:15:55,030
The Beaghmore Stone Circles
range from a few centimeters
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00:15:55,030 --> 00:15:56,963
to nearly two meters in height.
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00:15:58,030 --> 00:16:02,340
The stone rings each appear
to be part of a pattern.
254
00:16:02,340 --> 00:16:06,830
So far seven circle and nine
rows have been discovered.
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00:16:06,830 --> 00:16:09,940
And recent excavations
have revealed burials
256
00:16:09,940 --> 00:16:11,933
within some of the stone piles.
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00:16:13,030 --> 00:16:16,310
Experts have several
theories regarding the origin
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00:16:16,310 --> 00:16:17,863
and meaning of the monuments.
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00:16:19,250 --> 00:16:23,020
One possibility is the
site is lunar observatory
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00:16:23,020 --> 00:16:24,803
used to calculate dates.
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00:16:28,140 --> 00:16:31,130
To some the lines appear
to mark field borders
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00:16:31,130 --> 00:16:33,223
and may predate the circles.
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00:16:35,770 --> 00:16:38,910
It's also thought that the
structures were erected
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00:16:38,910 --> 00:16:42,810
as part of a ritual to
restore fertility to the soil.
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Whatever their purpose,
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00:16:44,350 --> 00:16:47,550
these monuments remain
an enigmatic reminder
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00:16:47,550 --> 00:16:49,573
of this lands ancient past.
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00:16:55,840 --> 00:16:57,740
Our journey now leads us north,
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to the country's most
famous natural wonder.
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The Giants Causeway.
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00:17:03,830 --> 00:17:06,400
This striking landscape has inspired
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00:17:06,400 --> 00:17:08,943
the imaginations of people for centuries.
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Popular legend claims
that the giant Finn McCool
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built the causeway to keep his feet dry
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as he crossed the Irish Sea to Scotland
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to confront his rival Benandonner.
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00:17:23,400 --> 00:17:24,740
But losing his nerve,
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00:17:24,740 --> 00:17:29,740
he turned and fled home with
his arch enemy in hot pursuit.
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00:17:30,090 --> 00:17:33,210
In a clever ruse Finns wife, Oona,
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disguised him as a baby.
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When Benandonner caught
sight of the enormous infant
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he fled in terror at the
thought of encountering
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the father of such a gigantic child.
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And tore up the causeway
in the panic to get away.
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A more plausible
explanation for its creation
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is given by geologists.
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65 million years ago,
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lava from volcanic eruptions
poured over a chalky surface.
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00:18:04,220 --> 00:18:07,400
Cracks formed in the slowly cooling rock
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00:18:07,400 --> 00:18:10,700
and as time passed
flowing water carved out
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00:18:10,700 --> 00:18:13,900
the magnificent patterns we see today.
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00:18:13,900 --> 00:18:18,740
The 40 thousand interlocking
columns have up to eight sides.
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Four or five being the most common.
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However, a popular
activity amongst visitors
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is the hunt for the very
few with only three sides.
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This natural monument
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00:18:32,350 --> 00:18:35,600
has been attracting
visitors for centuries.
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But after a period of paid
admission in the 1900s,
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the Giants Causeway was finally bequeathed
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00:18:41,980 --> 00:18:43,770
to the National Trust.
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00:18:43,770 --> 00:18:46,883
Once again granting free
access to the public.
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00:18:48,190 --> 00:18:51,660
In 1986, it was declared Ireland's first
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00:18:51,660 --> 00:18:53,973
UNESCO World Heritage site.
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00:18:54,950 --> 00:18:58,120
The Trust has continued
to acquire adjoining land
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00:18:58,120 --> 00:19:01,730
and today owns 70 hectares
of the cliffs and foreshore
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00:19:01,730 --> 00:19:05,083
of Northern Ireland's
greatest tourist attraction.
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00:19:10,830 --> 00:19:12,870
Further along the Antrim Coast,
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00:19:12,870 --> 00:19:15,870
perched high on a sheer basalt cliff
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00:19:15,870 --> 00:19:18,563
is the mysterious Dunluce Castle.
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Evidence suggests that some parts
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date back to the 14th century.
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00:19:24,090 --> 00:19:27,750
It was forcefully taken
sometime in the mid-1500s
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00:19:27,750 --> 00:19:30,723
by the McDonnell's who
are still the owners.
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00:19:34,770 --> 00:19:37,540
Recent excavations of the surrounding area
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00:19:37,540 --> 00:19:41,400
have revealed an incredibly
well-preserved merchant town,
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00:19:41,400 --> 00:19:43,823
dating to the early 17th century.
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00:19:44,750 --> 00:19:48,390
The dig uncovered cobbled
streets, wine glass stems,
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00:19:48,390 --> 00:19:50,100
and even dress fastenings.
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00:19:50,100 --> 00:19:53,843
All signs of the prosperity
that was once enjoyed here.
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00:19:55,260 --> 00:19:57,830
But it was the absence
of the nearby tradeport
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00:19:57,830 --> 00:20:00,803
that ultimately doomed
the settlement to failure.
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00:20:00,803 --> 00:20:03,303
(flute music)
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00:20:04,470 --> 00:20:05,770
At the base of the cliff
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00:20:05,770 --> 00:20:08,900
is the cavern known as Mermaids Cave.
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00:20:08,900 --> 00:20:12,800
Legend holds that an eloping
couple met a tragic end
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00:20:12,800 --> 00:20:16,290
when their boat was
smashed against the rocks.
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00:20:16,290 --> 00:20:18,520
The young woman's ghost is said to haunt
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00:20:18,520 --> 00:20:21,183
the prison tower overlooking the sea.
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00:20:26,060 --> 00:20:27,720
Like Mermaids Cave,
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00:20:27,720 --> 00:20:30,140
the arches and columns along the coast
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have been carved by the elements.
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00:20:34,440 --> 00:20:37,110
The soft chalk deposits
that have disappeared
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00:20:37,110 --> 00:20:39,440
from most of Ireland over the millennia
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00:20:39,440 --> 00:20:42,993
have survived here beneath
a shell of volcanic rock.
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00:20:44,760 --> 00:20:47,350
In some places the lava has eroded
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to reveal layers more that
300 million years old.
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As we continue our tour
of the northern coast
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00:20:56,480 --> 00:20:59,753
we arrive at this kilometer
long peninsula at Portrush.
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00:21:03,339 --> 00:21:05,600
The town began as a small fishing village
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00:21:05,600 --> 00:21:09,200
but was transformed into a
seaside resort destination
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00:21:09,200 --> 00:21:13,250
after the arrival of the
railway in the 1800s.
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00:21:13,250 --> 00:21:14,910
It holds an annual celebration
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00:21:14,910 --> 00:21:19,120
in honor of the notorious
Scottish pirate, Tavish Dhu,
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00:21:19,120 --> 00:21:22,900
who helped defend Portrush
from an enemy attack
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00:21:22,900 --> 00:21:24,533
back in the 14th century.
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00:21:28,450 --> 00:21:32,120
Continuing wast along this
dramatic and varied coastline,
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00:21:32,120 --> 00:21:33,300
is one of Northern Ireland's
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00:21:33,300 --> 00:21:37,759
most treasured historic
buildings, Mussenden Temple.
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00:21:37,759 --> 00:21:41,400
(soft instrumental music)
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00:21:41,400 --> 00:21:44,910
The structure has been perched
atop the 36 meter cliff
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00:21:44,910 --> 00:21:47,743
since its construction in the 1780s.
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00:21:49,230 --> 00:21:53,000
Inspired by the Temple of
Vesta in Tivoli near Rome,
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00:21:53,000 --> 00:21:55,760
it's served as a summer
library for its owner,
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00:21:55,760 --> 00:21:59,323
Frederick Augustus Hervey,
the fourth earl of Bristol.
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00:22:01,140 --> 00:22:02,780
Set back from the shoreline
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00:22:02,780 --> 00:22:04,420
are the ruins of his palace
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00:22:04,420 --> 00:22:07,755
that once stood at the
heart of a grand estate.
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00:22:07,755 --> 00:22:11,130
(violin music)
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Controversially for the time,
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00:22:13,120 --> 00:22:17,370
Hervey was an outspoken
supporter of religious equality.
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00:22:17,370 --> 00:22:20,680
Though he won the respect of
many church leaders in Ireland,
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00:22:20,680 --> 00:22:24,550
ongoing religious tensions
left him disheartened.
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00:22:24,550 --> 00:22:26,020
Departing for Europe,
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00:22:26,020 --> 00:22:28,940
he spent the last of his days in Italy
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00:22:28,940 --> 00:22:32,730
where he was imprisoned on spying charges.
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00:22:32,730 --> 00:22:36,480
But the Earls legacy and
love of architecture remain.
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00:22:36,480 --> 00:22:37,773
Though only just.
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00:22:40,710 --> 00:22:43,250
The coast has eroded by nine meters
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00:22:43,250 --> 00:22:45,450
since the temples construction.
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00:22:45,450 --> 00:22:48,393
And it was dangerously close
to falling into the sea.
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00:22:49,390 --> 00:22:52,530
Reassuringly, for the
thousands of annual visitors,
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00:22:52,530 --> 00:22:55,850
a massive project was undertaken in 1997
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00:22:55,850 --> 00:22:57,403
to stabilize the cliff.
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00:22:59,053 --> 00:23:01,440
(calm music)
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00:23:01,440 --> 00:23:04,910
The mild, humid conditions
of this rolling landscape,
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00:23:04,910 --> 00:23:07,713
ensure lush greens all year round.
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00:23:08,800 --> 00:23:11,910
Northern Ireland's
temperate maritime climate
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produces average temperatures
between three and 18 degrees.
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It's no wonder that today's city of Derry
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00:23:23,640 --> 00:23:26,100
is one of the oldest
to continuously inhabit
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00:23:26,100 --> 00:23:27,450
its settlements in Ireland.
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00:23:28,330 --> 00:23:31,710
The term, Derry, comes
from the old Irish word
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00:23:31,710 --> 00:23:35,600
meaning oak grove surrounded by water.
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00:23:35,600 --> 00:23:38,820
Oak groves were sacred
to the ancient Celts.
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00:23:38,820 --> 00:23:41,883
And legends about these tress
have survived ever since.
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00:23:45,320 --> 00:23:46,860
After the English Conquest
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00:23:46,860 --> 00:23:48,600
and colonization of the region
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00:23:48,600 --> 00:23:50,760
around the turn of the 17th century,
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00:23:50,760 --> 00:23:53,580
these massive stone walls were built
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00:23:53,580 --> 00:23:55,783
to protect the newcomers from attack.
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00:23:57,330 --> 00:24:00,550
In 1613, King James the first of England
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00:24:00,550 --> 00:24:03,370
granted this place the status of a city.
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00:24:03,370 --> 00:24:06,250
Renaming it Londonderry.
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00:24:06,250 --> 00:24:08,170
Though remaining the official name,
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00:24:08,170 --> 00:24:12,030
it is still best known as simply, Derry.
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00:24:12,030 --> 00:24:13,640
Today it's Northern Ireland's
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00:24:13,640 --> 00:24:16,470
only remaining completely walled city,
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00:24:16,470 --> 00:24:19,453
and one of the finest
examples in all of Europe.
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00:24:23,700 --> 00:24:26,360
Synonymous with the landscape
of Northern Ireland,
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00:24:26,360 --> 00:24:29,530
are its spectacular system of lakes.
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00:24:29,530 --> 00:24:32,940
And it's here we find the
last stop on our journey.
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00:24:32,940 --> 00:24:36,960
On the small island of
Devenish in lower Lough Erne
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00:24:36,960 --> 00:24:39,710
these are the ruins of Devenish Monastery,
404
00:24:39,710 --> 00:24:42,923
founded in the 16th
century by Saint Molaise.
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00:24:43,830 --> 00:24:46,810
Legend holds that while
resting from his labors,
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00:24:46,810 --> 00:24:50,400
Malaise became spellbound
by a singing bird.
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00:24:50,400 --> 00:24:53,840
When he emerged from the
enchantment after 100 years,
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00:24:53,840 --> 00:24:56,600
the monastery had been built.
409
00:24:56,600 --> 00:24:58,440
It's a magical story.
410
00:24:58,440 --> 00:25:01,180
The place is early Irish Christian beliefs
411
00:25:01,180 --> 00:25:03,723
deep within ancient Celtic traditions.
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00:25:05,320 --> 00:25:07,200
The distinctive round tower
413
00:25:07,200 --> 00:25:09,460
is amongst the oldest of the ruins,
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00:25:09,460 --> 00:25:11,533
dating back to the 12th century.
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00:25:12,810 --> 00:25:14,570
For over a thousand years,
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00:25:14,570 --> 00:25:16,120
this monastery was regarded
417
00:25:16,120 --> 00:25:19,133
as the most important in
the province of Ulster.
418
00:25:20,160 --> 00:25:22,960
Today it stands as a splendid monument
419
00:25:22,960 --> 00:25:26,653
to the story of this
ancient and mystical land.
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00:25:27,560 --> 00:25:30,579
A perfect place to end this journey.
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00:25:30,579 --> 00:25:33,079
(flute music)
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00:25:34,039 --> 00:25:36,872
(energetic music)
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00:25:57,205 --> 00:25:59,955
(logo whooshing)
33769
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