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(uplifting music)
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- Our journey
begins in the heart of France
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and the ruins of Oradour-sur-Glane.
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Once a thriving village,
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it now stands as a symbol
for the ravages of war.
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Dropping south, it's
on to the region of Lot
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and the dramatic cliff
side village of Rocamadour.
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We travel along the Dordogne River
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to the old port city of Bergerac
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before going on to explore the castles
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and the vineyards of the Lot valley.
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It takes us to Cahors
and it's famed bridge.
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In the heart of the Midi-Pyrenees
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we find the fourth biggest
metropolis in France, Toulouse,
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that's home to Airbus Industries.
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From the wall city of Carcassonne,
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we travel deep into the
foothills of the Pyrenees
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to end our journey at the
formidable Puilaurens Castle.
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(gentle music)
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With it's historic
shadows, medieval villages
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and rolling vineyards,
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Southern France conjures
images of a land filled
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with beauty and romance.
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A place nearly untouched
by the modern world
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where life is a seamless blend
with a natural landscape.
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But it's also a place
where the shadow of history
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still casts painful
memories of darker times.
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At first glance, this
village appears no different
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from any other in the region.
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But a closer look
reveals a brutal atrocity
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from one of France's bleakest hours.
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These ruins are all that
remain of Oradour-sur-Glane
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following the Nazi
occupation of World War II.
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An SS Panzer Division stormed the village
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on Saturday the 10th of June 1944.
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Residents were herded into
buildings and locked inside
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after which the entire
village was set ablaze.
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Those attempting to escape
the flames were shot.
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In all 642 people were killed.
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00:03:22,000 --> 00:03:27,000
Of those, 450 were women and children.
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It was the worst Nazi massacre
of civilians in France.
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No evidence linking the village
to the resistance movement
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has ever been found
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and whatever may have prompted
the attack remains a mystery.
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After the war,
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the charred ruins were
declared a site of remembrance.
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The Memorial Center was opened in '99
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to remember the crimes
that took place here
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and honor those who lost their lives.
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It receives around 300,000 visitors a year
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00:04:04,570 --> 00:04:07,300
who come to bear witness
to the terrible fate
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that befell Oradour-sur-Glane.
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We now travel south to the rocky gorges
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of the Midi-Pyrenees.
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It's where we find Rocamadour
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and the buildings that have been clinging
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to the side of this rugged
cliff for nearly 1000 years.
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In 1166, Benedictine monks discovered
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what they believed to be the remains
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of the biblical figure Saint Amadour.
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He's said to have traveled to this site
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where he built a homatage
in the rocky cliff
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overlooking the Alzou Valley.
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For the next few centuries,
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pilgrims flocked to Rocamadour
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bringing wealth and prosperity.
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But by the 15th century,
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the visits began to decline
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and the religious turmoil
of the following century
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ended the great pilgrimage era altogether.
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Notre Dame of Rocamadour sanctuary
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is carved into the limestone cliff
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and includes seven separate
chapels and shrines.
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It's listed as a UNESCO
World Heritage Site.
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Perched at the highest point
in the village is the castle,
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it dates from the late 13th century.
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It's an ideal spot from which to take in
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the spectacular view of the valley below.
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The 19th century saw a resurgence
of interest in Rocamadour.
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Today the village of only 600 receives
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more than a million visitors each year.
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We continue across the rich,
green valleys of the Dordogne
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considered by many to be
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the birthplace of European civilization.
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Traces of human habitation
go back over 400,000 years.
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More recent evidence of occupation
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is the picturesque Chateau de Fenelon,
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a 13th century castle above
the village of Sainte Mondane.
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A vision of tranquility,
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the Dordogne River is a fitting
symbol of the rustic spirit
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which so characterizes
life in this region.
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But with such a peaceful landscape,
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it's difficult to imagine the turmoil
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it's seen through its history.
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Celts and Romans have come and gone
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as have tribes of Eastern Europe.
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It's seen hostilities between
the English and French
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as well as fierce religious conflict.
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Testament to centuries of strife
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are the many castles dotted
throughout the region.
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This is the 12th century
fortress Chateau de Castelnaud.
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It was built by a
supporter of the Cathors,
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a religious group whose views
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directly opposed those
of the Catholic Church.
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It was finally abandoned
after the French Revolution
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and fell into disrepair.
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But by 1966, Castelnaud
was officially listed
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as a historic site
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and has since undergone
several restorations.
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Although tourism has greatly increased
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over the past century,
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agriculture remains
the core of the economy
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in Dordogne's fertile river valley.
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Grapes, truffles, foie gras, and walnuts
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are amongst its produce.
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This area is also France's top producer
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of strawberries and tobacco.
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For centuries, farmers relied on the river
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to transport their crops.
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This reliance gave rise to
important trading centers
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such as the old river port of Bergerac.
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Back in the 1200s,
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the city was a bustling crossroads
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with a distinct advantage of possessing
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the only bridge on the river.
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The town developed into a
thriving commercial hub.
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Bergerac later played a vital role
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in the resistance movement
during the second World War
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rescuing countless allied airmen
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shot down in the surrounding area.
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But today, air travel
has a far friendlier role
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since it's the preferred mode of travel
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for the many summer tourists
coming to the region.
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They come not only to
experience the scenic beauty
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but also to enjoy some of the best wines
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found anywhere in the world.
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The environmental conditions here
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allow cultivation of a
wide variety of grapes.
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It's no wonder wine making is so central
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to life in southern France.
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Our next stop is a grand residence
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that was once passed down 24
generations of the same family.
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Chateau de Beranger represents 800 years
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of fortress architecture
beginning with it construction
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in the 12th century.
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Styles from various periods
in the castle's long history
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can clearly be seen.
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Beranger fell on hard times
during the religious wars
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of the late 16th century
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when the family lost favor with the king.
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The estate's owner was executed
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and it's said his ghost still walks
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the ramparts with his head in his hands.
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The absence of later editions
to this next fortress,
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the Castle of King Dukes,
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suggests an ongoing change of hands.
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It's an excellent example
of the design found
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during the English reign
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over this region in the Middle Ages.
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It has all the elements
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of other Welsh castles from that time.
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However, recent renovation
has perhaps captured
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some of its former glory.
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As we make our way to the River Lot,
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we pass Castelfranc founded
in the late 13th century
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by the Bishop of Cahors.
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Since vines were introduced
to the region around 50 BC,
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wine making has been the cornerstone
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of the small village economies here.
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They're known for producing some
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of the most prized Malbecs in the world.
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Further along where the river doubles back
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on itself is Luzech.
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This ancient place even predates
the arrival of the Romans.
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But the rivers history runs much deeper
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and over time the Lots meandering
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has created other
impressive land formations.
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Such as this escarpment near
the farming village of Parnac.
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These vineyards at the
heart of the Cahors region
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represent centuries of
wine making history.
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A stretch of road winding along
the edge of the escarpment
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makes for breathtaking views
of the vineyards below.
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For many visitors and locals alike,
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a favorite way to enjoy the
beauty of the French countryside
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is traveling along one
of the many scenic byways
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that crisscross the landscape.
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Cyclists and motorists from near and far
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come to enjoy a taste
of the local atmosphere
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and attractions often missed
on the main thoroughfares.
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Just down the river is another gem
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that's off the beaten path.
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The Chateau De Mercues was
built by the bishops of Cahors
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in the 13th century.
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The formidable fortress
served as an advanced guard
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to protect the nearby city of Cahors.
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It helped secure the status of the bishops
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who's par equaled that of
any lord in the province.
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After the religious wars
of the 16th century,
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the castle served as a
refuge for 800 peasants
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left poor and destitute
from the years of conflict.
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Work was offered to the men
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and the war ravaged fortress was rebuilt.
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New gardens were planted
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and the orchards and arbors were restored.
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In the 1980s,
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it was transformed into a luxury hotel.
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A short distance away is
the ancient city of Cahors.
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The site is almost entirely
surrounded by water
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which is probably what attracted
the earlier settlers here
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almost 3000 years ago.
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The first Bishop of Cahors
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was appointed in the third century.
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The level of power gained by the bishops
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over the next millennium
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would profoundly impact
the city's prosperity.
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And by the 1200s,
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this place flourished
as one of the foremost
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financial centers in all of Europe.
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Cahors Cathedral stands today
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as a symbol of that prosperity.
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The church was built in
the late 11th century
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but much of what we see represents
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the elegance of the
architecture of the 1300s.
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The city's most beloved landmark
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has been the source of local legend
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for over 600 years.
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Plans for constructing a bridge
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across the River Lot began in 1306.
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00:14:24,170 --> 00:14:27,987
But Pont Valentre took more
than 70 years to complete
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00:14:27,987 --> 00:14:31,023
giving rise to a famous local legend.
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00:14:32,120 --> 00:14:33,500
As the story goes,
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the builder made a pact with the devil
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to help with the construction.
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00:14:39,980 --> 00:14:42,070
But the devil was cleverly tricked
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00:14:42,070 --> 00:14:44,540
and the builder kept his soul.
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Not to be outdone,
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it said the devil took a
piece of the bridge each night
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00:14:49,160 --> 00:14:51,903
so he could never ever be completed.
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00:14:55,290 --> 00:14:58,170
But not only was it finished in 1880,
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00:14:58,170 --> 00:15:01,410
it underwent an extensive
restoration project
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00:15:01,410 --> 00:15:04,310
and a carving of a devil
was placed at the top
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00:15:04,310 --> 00:15:07,433
of one of the towers to
commemorate the legend.
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00:15:09,640 --> 00:15:13,610
In 1998, the Valentre
Bridge was designated
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00:15:13,610 --> 00:15:16,230
a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
245
00:15:20,660 --> 00:15:22,300
For 75 kilometers,
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00:15:22,300 --> 00:15:24,870
the River Lot winds its way through hills
247
00:15:24,870 --> 00:15:26,245
cloaked with dense forests
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00:15:26,245 --> 00:15:28,283
and patchworks of farmland.
249
00:15:30,400 --> 00:15:33,730
The rivers gentle place
makes it a splendid place
250
00:15:33,730 --> 00:15:35,523
to enjoy a leisurely cruise.
251
00:15:35,523 --> 00:15:37,871
Before the days of power motors,
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00:15:37,871 --> 00:15:40,170
boats used for trading goods
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00:15:40,170 --> 00:15:43,290
floated downstream easily enough
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00:15:43,290 --> 00:15:46,520
but had to be towed by
teams of men or oxen
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00:15:46,520 --> 00:15:48,163
when going against the current.
256
00:15:52,820 --> 00:15:54,664
The same spirit of determination
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00:15:54,664 --> 00:15:57,560
must have also led to the establishment
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00:15:57,560 --> 00:15:59,770
of one of the most scenic destinations
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in all of France.
260
00:16:01,520 --> 00:16:05,063
The cliff side village
of Saint-Cirq-Lapopie.
261
00:16:07,770 --> 00:16:10,210
Perched 100 meters above the water,
262
00:16:10,210 --> 00:16:13,653
this site began as a fortress
guarding over the river.
263
00:16:14,580 --> 00:16:15,960
Many of the buildings date
264
00:16:15,960 --> 00:16:18,853
between the 13th and 16th centuries.
265
00:16:22,260 --> 00:16:26,723
The town prospered until the
arrival of the railway in 1886.
266
00:16:30,670 --> 00:16:32,530
Today this place is considered
267
00:16:32,530 --> 00:16:34,493
one of the loveliest in France.
268
00:16:42,140 --> 00:16:44,470
The vast landscapes
surrounding the village
269
00:16:44,470 --> 00:16:47,500
is part of Causses du
Quercy Regional Park.
270
00:16:47,500 --> 00:16:49,920
Home to an assortment of wildlife
271
00:16:49,920 --> 00:16:53,223
as well as some of the oldest
prehistoric sites in Europe.
272
00:16:57,000 --> 00:16:59,610
Our tour along the Lot River continues
273
00:16:59,610 --> 00:17:01,453
with Chateau de Cenevieres.
274
00:17:02,710 --> 00:17:05,660
The family who built the
castle in the 13th century
275
00:17:05,660 --> 00:17:10,060
retained ownership until
after the French Revolution.
276
00:17:10,060 --> 00:17:13,233
It's been open to the public since 1957.
277
00:17:16,880 --> 00:17:18,080
After losing ourselves
278
00:17:18,080 --> 00:17:20,050
in the rich history of southern France,
279
00:17:20,050 --> 00:17:21,760
it's time to switch back
280
00:17:21,760 --> 00:17:24,913
to the present and (mumbles) Airport.
281
00:17:26,860 --> 00:17:30,030
For those brave souls with
a penchant for excitement,
282
00:17:30,030 --> 00:17:33,497
a number of clubs and businesses
devoted to adventure sports
283
00:17:33,497 --> 00:17:36,113
are active in this part of France.
284
00:17:38,340 --> 00:17:40,993
A successful landing, well done.
285
00:17:43,280 --> 00:17:45,193
We bid farewell to the River Lot
286
00:17:45,193 --> 00:17:49,030
and travel southwest across
the French countryside.
287
00:17:49,030 --> 00:17:51,740
We pass the rural village of Mirabel
288
00:17:51,740 --> 00:17:53,690
one of the many charming villages
289
00:17:53,690 --> 00:17:55,573
that dot the vast landscape.
290
00:17:57,750 --> 00:18:00,740
A bit less charming but no less important
291
00:18:00,740 --> 00:18:02,760
is the Saint-Jory marshalling yard
292
00:18:02,760 --> 00:18:06,863
located 15 kilometers from
the station in Toulouse.
293
00:18:08,410 --> 00:18:12,373
France was first introduced
to the railroad in 1827
294
00:18:12,373 --> 00:18:16,423
but 25 years would pass
before it's arrival here.
295
00:18:21,240 --> 00:18:23,570
The railroad would
ultimately revolutionize
296
00:18:23,570 --> 00:18:25,823
commerce and travel in the region.
297
00:18:28,230 --> 00:18:31,749
The once essential waterways
such as the Canal de Garonne
298
00:18:31,749 --> 00:18:35,043
were rendered obsolete after
the railroads were built.
299
00:18:38,270 --> 00:18:39,730
Like any great city,
300
00:18:39,730 --> 00:18:43,690
Toulouse has always adapted
to a changing world.
301
00:18:43,690 --> 00:18:47,670
One sign of the modern era
is the Ernest-Wallon Stadium
302
00:18:47,670 --> 00:18:49,543
built in the 1980s.
303
00:18:51,430 --> 00:18:54,233
It's home to the rugby
union club Stade Toulousain.
304
00:18:55,400 --> 00:18:58,260
The entire complex covers 10 hectares
305
00:18:58,260 --> 00:19:02,423
and is big enough to house
more than 19000 cheering fans.
306
00:19:05,870 --> 00:19:06,940
But if there's one thing
307
00:19:06,940 --> 00:19:08,380
that represents the pinnacle
308
00:19:08,380 --> 00:19:11,520
of modern Toulouse, it's the airport.
309
00:19:11,520 --> 00:19:14,750
This is the center of
aviation manufacturing
310
00:19:14,750 --> 00:19:16,083
for all of Europe.
311
00:19:17,140 --> 00:19:19,470
Blagnac, as the airfield is known,
312
00:19:19,470 --> 00:19:23,593
is home to Airbus
Industries and the new A380.
313
00:19:24,830 --> 00:19:28,870
With a maximum capacity
of over 850 passengers,
314
00:19:28,870 --> 00:19:32,223
it's currently the world's
largest commercial aircraft.
315
00:19:33,970 --> 00:19:37,800
Manufacturing first began here in 1917
316
00:19:37,800 --> 00:19:39,150
during the first World War.
317
00:19:41,350 --> 00:19:44,430
Since then, it's put together
an impressive collection
318
00:19:44,430 --> 00:19:46,546
of historical aircraft to commemorate
319
00:19:46,546 --> 00:19:48,853
the city's aviation heritage.
320
00:19:50,730 --> 00:19:52,196
One of the centerpiece exhibits
321
00:19:52,196 --> 00:19:56,410
is the retired supersonic
airliner Concorde.
322
00:19:56,410 --> 00:20:00,910
It's prototype made its first
test flight here back in 1969.
323
00:20:05,670 --> 00:20:08,268
We leave the noise and
excitement of the airport
324
00:20:08,268 --> 00:20:11,720
and head south across the farms of Aude
325
00:20:11,720 --> 00:20:13,370
to one of the finest examples
326
00:20:13,370 --> 00:20:15,863
of a fortified wall city in France.
327
00:20:18,480 --> 00:20:23,110
Carcassonne began as a settlement
in the sixth century BC.
328
00:20:23,110 --> 00:20:24,560
It's strategic location
329
00:20:24,560 --> 00:20:27,030
between the Atlantic
and Mediterranean seas
330
00:20:27,030 --> 00:20:29,870
led the city's rise as
an important crossroads
331
00:20:29,870 --> 00:20:31,333
for travelers to Spain.
332
00:20:33,580 --> 00:20:34,830
In the 12th century,
333
00:20:34,830 --> 00:20:37,080
while other towns were
plagued with turmoil
334
00:20:37,080 --> 00:20:38,958
between Catholics and the Cathars,
335
00:20:38,958 --> 00:20:40,570
Carcassonne enjoyed
336
00:20:40,570 --> 00:20:44,230
a relatively peaceful time
of religious tolerance.
337
00:20:44,230 --> 00:20:48,130
But that peace abruptly ended in 1209
338
00:20:48,130 --> 00:20:51,363
when Crusaders invaded
and occupied the city.
339
00:20:53,300 --> 00:20:54,990
Some 30 years later,
340
00:20:54,990 --> 00:20:57,080
the son of the executed lord
341
00:20:57,080 --> 00:20:59,943
made several failed attempts
to recapture the city.
342
00:21:01,449 --> 00:21:03,090
Seven more years passed
343
00:21:03,090 --> 00:21:04,520
before the exiled residents
344
00:21:04,520 --> 00:21:06,690
were finally permitted to return
345
00:21:06,690 --> 00:21:08,423
by order of King Louis the IX.
346
00:21:09,630 --> 00:21:12,680
They settled in an area outside the walls
347
00:21:12,680 --> 00:21:15,610
which became known as Lower Town.
348
00:21:15,610 --> 00:21:20,070
But tensions with the
enclosed city continued.
349
00:21:20,070 --> 00:21:24,973
And by 1269, a second
fortification wall had been built.
350
00:21:26,410 --> 00:21:27,878
After the French Revolution,
351
00:21:27,878 --> 00:21:30,230
around the turn of the 19th century,
352
00:21:30,230 --> 00:21:33,390
the walls and towers were plundered.
353
00:21:33,390 --> 00:21:36,842
By 1845, the castle and its fortifications
354
00:21:36,842 --> 00:21:40,030
were slated for demolition.
355
00:21:40,030 --> 00:21:42,030
But the ancient site was rescued
356
00:21:42,030 --> 00:21:47,030
when a painstaking restoration
campaign began in 1846.
357
00:21:47,980 --> 00:21:50,750
It now stands as a prized example
358
00:21:50,750 --> 00:21:52,788
of medieval military architecture
359
00:21:52,788 --> 00:21:57,143
and has been designated a
UNESCO World Heritage Site.
360
00:21:58,490 --> 00:22:00,740
Our journey takes us over the clouds
361
00:22:00,740 --> 00:22:03,943
as we near the edge of the
Pyrenean Mountain range.
362
00:22:07,030 --> 00:22:09,779
The earliest human remains
ever found in Europe
363
00:22:09,779 --> 00:22:12,083
were discovered in these foothills.
364
00:22:12,990 --> 00:22:17,990
In 1971, paleontologists
uncovered the scan of a human
365
00:22:17,990 --> 00:22:21,513
who had lived 450,000 years ago.
366
00:22:24,270 --> 00:22:25,730
In the 13th century,
367
00:22:25,730 --> 00:22:28,111
this rugged landscape provided safe haven
368
00:22:28,111 --> 00:22:31,763
for many Cathars fleeing
religious persecution.
369
00:22:32,800 --> 00:22:34,600
Today, the Pyrenees serve
370
00:22:34,600 --> 00:22:37,333
as a natural border
with neighboring Spain.
371
00:22:41,490 --> 00:22:43,420
The mountains began their ascent
372
00:22:43,420 --> 00:22:45,810
around 14 million years ago
373
00:22:45,810 --> 00:22:49,073
when the African and
European plates collided.
374
00:22:50,550 --> 00:22:55,203
The Pyrenees were born on top
of 500 million year old base.
375
00:22:58,174 --> 00:23:00,731
And it's here amongst these mountains
376
00:23:00,731 --> 00:23:03,533
where we find the last stop on our route.
377
00:23:05,400 --> 00:23:08,569
Tucked away on a peak
overlooking the Boulzane Valley
378
00:23:08,569 --> 00:23:10,680
is one of the best preserved remnants
379
00:23:10,680 --> 00:23:13,573
of the Cathar period in southern France.
380
00:23:15,580 --> 00:23:17,660
Puilaurens Castle was once the most
381
00:23:17,660 --> 00:23:19,283
southerly fort on French soil.
382
00:23:20,370 --> 00:23:23,306
It was first documented in 985
383
00:23:23,306 --> 00:23:25,620
when it belonged to a nearby abbey
384
00:23:26,880 --> 00:23:27,840
and later served
385
00:23:27,840 --> 00:23:31,093
as a refuge Cathars who
joined the Crusades.
386
00:23:32,769 --> 00:23:34,802
Because of its remote location,
387
00:23:34,802 --> 00:23:37,090
the castle seems to have been spared
388
00:23:37,090 --> 00:23:40,763
much of the ravages wreaked
upon other parts of the country.
389
00:23:42,270 --> 00:23:43,610
It was finally annexed
390
00:23:43,610 --> 00:23:47,633
under Louis the IX sometime around 1250.
391
00:23:48,520 --> 00:23:52,420
It was rebuilt and fortified
with the largest garrison
392
00:23:52,420 --> 00:23:53,843
on the entire border.
393
00:23:54,920 --> 00:23:55,840
After France signed
394
00:23:55,840 --> 00:23:59,550
the Treaty of the Pyrenees
with Spain in 1659,
395
00:23:59,550 --> 00:24:02,380
the border was moved further south
396
00:24:02,380 --> 00:24:05,623
and the castle lost its
strategic importance.
397
00:24:09,300 --> 00:24:12,670
It was left abandoned for over 200 years.
398
00:24:12,670 --> 00:24:15,770
In that period its towers
and crenulated walls
399
00:24:15,770 --> 00:24:17,713
remained surprisingly intact
400
00:24:17,713 --> 00:24:21,234
surely a testament to
the ingenuity and skills
401
00:24:21,234 --> 00:24:24,143
of its medieval architects and builders.
402
00:24:28,163 --> 00:24:30,188
At the turn of the 20th century,
403
00:24:30,188 --> 00:24:32,660
Puilaurens returned to prominence
404
00:24:32,660 --> 00:24:34,800
when it was declared a national monument
405
00:24:34,800 --> 00:24:36,833
by the French Ministry of Culture.
406
00:24:39,870 --> 00:24:43,160
Today a long and winding
path from the village below
407
00:24:43,160 --> 00:24:45,563
leads villagers up to the rocky peak.
408
00:24:49,450 --> 00:24:53,373
The reward is the breathtaking
panorama of the Pyrenees
409
00:24:53,373 --> 00:24:57,713
as well as a well earned
opportunity to explore the ruins.
410
00:25:01,360 --> 00:25:03,732
And as with any self-respecting castle,
411
00:25:03,732 --> 00:25:07,100
Puilaurens even has a ghost.
412
00:25:07,100 --> 00:25:08,810
According to local lure,
413
00:25:08,810 --> 00:25:11,660
it's of the restless spirit
of a young noble woman
414
00:25:11,660 --> 00:25:13,803
murdered by her husband.
415
00:25:18,100 --> 00:25:22,031
It's a tragic tale whose
grimness is only matched
416
00:25:22,031 --> 00:25:24,253
by the beauty of its setting.
417
00:25:25,290 --> 00:25:28,323
A perfect place to end this journey.
418
00:25:32,985 --> 00:25:35,818
(uplifting music)
419
00:25:56,551 --> 00:25:59,301
(logo whooshing)
32931
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