Original subtitles

(uplifting music)

- Our journey begins in the heart of France

and the ruins of Oradour-sur-Glane.

Once a thriving village,

it now stands as a symbol for the ravages of war.

Dropping south, it's on to the region of Lot

and the dramatic cliff side village of Rocamadour.

We travel along the Dordogne River

to the old port city of Bergerac

before going on to explore the castles

and the vineyards of the Lot valley.

It takes us to Cahors and it's famed bridge.

In the heart of the Midi-Pyrenees

we find the fourth biggest metropolis in France, Toulouse,

that's home to Airbus Industries.

From the wall city of Carcassonne,

we travel deep into the foothills of the Pyrenees

to end our journey at the formidable Puilaurens Castle.

(gentle music)

With it's historic shadows, medieval villages

and rolling vineyards,

Southern France conjures images of a land filled

with beauty and romance.

A place nearly untouched by the modern world

where life is a seamless blend with a natural landscape.

But it's also a place where the shadow of history

still casts painful memories of darker times.

At first glance, this village appears no different

from any other in the region.

But a closer look reveals a brutal atrocity

from one of France's bleakest hours.

These ruins are all that remain of Oradour-sur-Glane

following the Nazi occupation of World War II.

An SS Panzer Division stormed the village

on Saturday the 10th of June 1944.

Residents were herded into buildings and locked inside

after which the entire village was set ablaze.

Those attempting to escape the flames were shot.

In all 642 people were killed.

Of those, 450 were women and children.

It was the worst Nazi massacre of civilians in France.

No evidence linking the village to the resistance movement

has ever been found

and whatever may have prompted the attack remains a mystery.

After the war,

the charred ruins were declared a site of remembrance.

The Memorial Center was opened in '99

to remember the crimes that took place here

and honor those who lost their lives.

It receives around 300,000 visitors a year

who come to bear witness to the terrible fate

that befell Oradour-sur-Glane.

We now travel south to the rocky gorges

of the Midi-Pyrenees.

It's where we find Rocamadour

and the buildings that have been clinging

to the side of this rugged cliff for nearly 1000 years.

In 1166, Benedictine monks discovered

what they believed to be the remains

of the biblical figure Saint Amadour.

He's said to have traveled to this site

where he built a homatage in the rocky cliff

overlooking the Alzou Valley.

For the next few centuries,

pilgrims flocked to Rocamadour

bringing wealth and prosperity.

But by the 15th century,

the visits began to decline

and the religious turmoil of the following century

ended the great pilgrimage era altogether.

Notre Dame of Rocamadour sanctuary

is carved into the limestone cliff

and includes seven separate chapels and shrines.

It's listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Perched at the highest point in the village is the castle,

it dates from the late 13th century.

It's an ideal spot from which to take in

the spectacular view of the valley below.

The 19th century saw a resurgence of interest in Rocamadour.

Today the village of only 600 receives

more than a million visitors each year.

We continue across the rich, green valleys of the Dordogne

considered by many to be

the birthplace of European civilization.

Traces of human habitation go back over 400,000 years.

More recent evidence of occupation

is the picturesque Chateau de Fenelon,

a 13th century castle above the village of Sainte Mondane.

A vision of tranquility,

the Dordogne River is a fitting symbol of the rustic spirit

which so characterizes life in this region.

But with such a peaceful landscape,

it's difficult to imagine the turmoil

it's seen through its history.

Celts and Romans have come and gone

as have tribes of Eastern Europe.

It's seen hostilities between the English and French

as well as fierce religious conflict.

Testament to centuries of strife

are the many castles dotted throughout the region.

This is the 12th century fortress Chateau de Castelnaud.

It was built by a supporter of the Cathors,

a religious group whose views

directly opposed those of the Catholic Church.

It was finally abandoned after the French Revolution

and fell into disrepair.

But by 1966, Castelnaud was officially listed

as a historic site

and has since undergone several restorations.

Although tourism has greatly increased

over the past century,

agriculture remains the core of the economy

in Dordogne's fertile river valley.

Grapes, truffles, foie gras, and walnuts

are amongst its produce.

This area is also France's top producer

of strawberries and tobacco.

For centuries, farmers relied on the river

to transport their crops.

This reliance gave rise to important trading centers

such as the old river port of Bergerac.

Back in the 1200s,

the city was a bustling crossroads

with a distinct advantage of possessing

the only bridge on the river.

The town developed into a thriving commercial hub.

Bergerac later played a vital role

in the resistance movement during the second World War

rescuing countless allied airmen

shot down in the surrounding area.

But today, air travel has a far friendlier role

since it's the preferred mode of travel

for the many summer tourists coming to the region.

They come not only to experience the scenic beauty

but also to enjoy some of the best wines

found anywhere in the world.

The environmental conditions here

allow cultivation of a wide variety of grapes.

It's no wonder wine making is so central

to life in southern France.

Our next stop is a grand residence

that was once passed down 24 generations of the same family.

Chateau de Beranger represents 800 years

of fortress architecture beginning with it construction

in the 12th century.

Styles from various periods in the castle's long history

can clearly be seen.

Beranger fell on hard times during the religious wars

of the late 16th century

when the family lost favor with the king.

The estate's owner was executed

and it's said his ghost still walks

the ramparts with his head in his hands.

The absence of later editions to this next fortress,

the Castle of King Dukes,

suggests an ongoing change of hands.

It's an excellent example of the design found

during the English reign

over this region in the Middle Ages.

It has all the elements

of other Welsh castles from that time.

However, recent renovation has perhaps captured

some of its former glory.

As we make our way to the River Lot,

we pass Castelfranc founded in the late 13th century

by the Bishop of Cahors.

Since vines were introduced to the region around 50 BC,

wine making has been the cornerstone

of the small village economies here.

They're known for producing some

of the most prized Malbecs in the world.

Further along where the river doubles back

on itself is Luzech.

This ancient place even predates the arrival of the Romans.

But the rivers history runs much deeper

and over time the Lots meandering

has created other impressive land formations.

Such as this escarpment near the farming village of Parnac.

These vineyards at the heart of the Cahors region

represent centuries of wine making history.

A stretch of road winding along the edge of the escarpment

makes for breathtaking views of the vineyards below.

For many visitors and locals alike,

a favorite way to enjoy the beauty of the French countryside

is traveling along one of the many scenic byways

that crisscross the landscape.

Cyclists and motorists from near and far

come to enjoy a taste of the local atmosphere

and attractions often missed on the main thoroughfares.

Just down the river is another gem

that's off the beaten path.

The Chateau De Mercues was built by the bishops of Cahors

in the 13th century.

The formidable fortress served as an advanced guard

to protect the nearby city of Cahors.

It helped secure the status of the bishops

who's par equaled that of any lord in the province.

After the religious wars of the 16th century,

the castle served as a refuge for 800 peasants

left poor and destitute from the years of conflict.

Work was offered to the men

and the war ravaged fortress was rebuilt.

New gardens were planted

and the orchards and arbors were restored.

In the 1980s,

it was transformed into a luxury hotel.

A short distance away is the ancient city of Cahors.

The site is almost entirely surrounded by water

which is probably what attracted the earlier settlers here

almost 3000 years ago.

The first Bishop of Cahors

was appointed in the third century.

The level of power gained by the bishops

over the next millennium

would profoundly impact the city's prosperity.

And by the 1200s,

this place flourished as one of the foremost

financial centers in all of Europe.

Cahors Cathedral stands today

as a symbol of that prosperity.

The church was built in the late 11th century

but much of what we see represents

the elegance of the architecture of the 1300s.

The city's most beloved landmark

has been the source of local legend

for over 600 years.

Plans for constructing a bridge

across the River Lot began in 1306.

But Pont Valentre took more than 70 years to complete

giving rise to a famous local legend.

As the story goes,

the builder made a pact with the devil

to help with the construction.

But the devil was cleverly tricked

and the builder kept his soul.

Not to be outdone,

it said the devil took a piece of the bridge each night

so he could never ever be completed.

But not only was it finished in 1880,

it underwent an extensive restoration project

and a carving of a devil was placed at the top

of one of the towers to commemorate the legend.

In 1998, the Valentre Bridge was designated

a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

For 75 kilometers,

the River Lot winds its way through hills

cloaked with dense forests

and patchworks of farmland.

The rivers gentle place makes it a splendid place

to enjoy a leisurely cruise.

Before the days of power motors,

boats used for trading goods

floated downstream easily enough

but had to be towed by teams of men or oxen

when going against the current.

The same spirit of determination

must have also led to the establishment

of one of the most scenic destinations

in all of France.

The cliff side village of Saint-Cirq-Lapopie.

Perched 100 meters above the water,

this site began as a fortress guarding over the river.

Many of the buildings date

between the 13th and 16th centuries.

The town prospered until the arrival of the railway in 1886.

Today this place is considered

one of the loveliest in France.

The vast landscapes surrounding the village

is part of Causses du Quercy Regional Park.

Home to an assortment of wildlife

as well as some of the oldest prehistoric sites in Europe.

Our tour along the Lot River continues

with Chateau de Cenevieres.

The family who built the castle in the 13th century

retained ownership until after the French Revolution.

It's been open to the public since 1957.

After losing ourselves

in the rich history of southern France,

it's time to switch back

to the present and (mumbles) Airport.

For those brave souls with a penchant for excitement,

a number of clubs and businesses devoted to adventure sports

are active in this part of France.

A successful landing, well done.

We bid farewell to the River Lot

and travel southwest across the French countryside.

We pass the rural village of Mirabel

one of the many charming villages

that dot the vast landscape.

A bit less charming but no less important

is the Saint-Jory marshalling yard

located 15 kilometers from the station in Toulouse.

France was first introduced to the railroad in 1827

but 25 years would pass before it's arrival here.

The railroad would ultimately revolutionize

commerce and travel in the region.

The once essential waterways such as the Canal de Garonne

were rendered obsolete after the railroads were built.

Like any great city,

Toulouse has always adapted to a changing world.

One sign of the modern era is the Ernest-Wallon Stadium

built in the 1980s.

It's home to the rugby union club Stade Toulousain.

The entire complex covers 10 hectares

and is big enough to house more than 19000 cheering fans.

But if there's one thing

that represents the pinnacle

of modern Toulouse, it's the airport.

This is the center of aviation manufacturing

for all of Europe.

Blagnac, as the airfield is known,

is home to Airbus Industries and the new A380.

With a maximum capacity of over 850 passengers,

it's currently the world's largest commercial aircraft.

Manufacturing first began here in 1917

during the first World War.

Since then, it's put together an impressive collection

of historical aircraft to commemorate

the city's aviation heritage.

One of the centerpiece exhibits

is the retired supersonic airliner Concorde.

It's prototype made its first test flight here back in 1969.

We leave the noise and excitement of the airport

and head south across the farms of Aude

to one of the finest examples

of a fortified wall city in France.

Carcassonne began as a settlement in the sixth century BC.

It's strategic location

between the Atlantic and Mediterranean seas

led the city's rise as an important crossroads

for travelers to Spain.

In the 12th century,

while other towns were plagued with turmoil

between Catholics and the Cathars,

Carcassonne enjoyed

a relatively peaceful time of religious tolerance.

But that peace abruptly ended in 1209

when Crusaders invaded and occupied the city.

Some 30 years later,

the son of the executed lord

made several failed attempts to recapture the city.

Seven more years passed

before the exiled residents

were finally permitted to return

by order of King Louis the IX.

They settled in an area outside the walls

which became known as Lower Town.

But tensions with the enclosed city continued.

And by 1269, a second fortification wall had been built.

After the French Revolution,

around the turn of the 19th century,

the walls and towers were plundered.

By 1845, the castle and its fortifications

were slated for demolition.

But the ancient site was rescued

when a painstaking restoration campaign began in 1846.

It now stands as a prized example

of medieval military architecture

and has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Our journey takes us over the clouds

as we near the edge of the Pyrenean Mountain range.

The earliest human remains ever found in Europe

were discovered in these foothills.

In 1971, paleontologists uncovered the scan of a human

who had lived 450,000 years ago.

In the 13th century,

this rugged landscape provided safe haven

for many Cathars fleeing religious persecution.

Today, the Pyrenees serve

as a natural border with neighboring Spain.

The mountains began their ascent

around 14 million years ago

when the African and European plates collided.

The Pyrenees were born on top of 500 million year old base.

And it's here amongst these mountains

where we find the last stop on our route.

Tucked away on a peak overlooking the Boulzane Valley

is one of the best preserved remnants

of the Cathar period in southern France.

Puilaurens Castle was once the most

southerly fort on French soil.

It was first documented in 985

when it belonged to a nearby abbey

and later served

as a refuge Cathars who joined the Crusades.

Because of its remote location,

the castle seems to have been spared

much of the ravages wreaked upon other parts of the country.

It was finally annexed

under Louis the IX sometime around 1250.

It was rebuilt and fortified with the largest garrison

on the entire border.

After France signed

the Treaty of the Pyrenees with Spain in 1659,

the border was moved further south

and the castle lost its strategic importance.

It was left abandoned for over 200 years.

In that period its towers and crenulated walls

remained surprisingly intact

surely a testament to the ingenuity and skills

of its medieval architects and builders.

At the turn of the 20th century,

Puilaurens returned to prominence

when it was declared a national monument

by the French Ministry of Culture.

Today a long and winding path from the village below

leads villagers up to the rocky peak.

The reward is the breathtaking panorama of the Pyrenees

as well as a well earned opportunity to explore the ruins.

And as with any self-respecting castle,

Puilaurens even has a ghost.

According to local lure,

it's of the restless spirit of a young noble woman

murdered by her husband.

It's a tragic tale whose grimness is only matched

by the beauty of its setting.

A perfect place to end this journey.

(uplifting music)

(logo whooshing)