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(wind blowing)
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(upbeat music)
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(upbeat music)
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- Our journey
begins in Portsmouth
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on the New Hampshire coast.
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Following the shoreline,
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we'll turn inland towards Exeter,
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one of the state's oldest towns.
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Our route takes us over
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New Hampshire's famed autumn foliage
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on the way to one of the
top racetracks in the US,
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the New Hampshire Motor Speedway.
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We'll visit some of the
state's most impressive lakes
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before continuing into the vast range
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of the White Mountains.
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From the breathtaking volcanic
structure of Cathedral Ledge,
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we'll make our way to Crawford
Notch and Arethusa Falls,
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one of the most popular
cascades in the district.
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And we'll end our journey
amongst the tallest peaks
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in the entire Northeast,
the Presidential Range.
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(upbeat music)
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This is the Piscataqua River estuary,
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where we find the metropolitan
hub of Portsmouth,
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the third oldest city
in the United States.
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The first European account of the area
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dates back to 1603,
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and settlement officially
began 20 years later.
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In the 19th century, the
city exploded with new growth
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during the height of
the shipping industry,
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and the historic homes and buildings
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stand as a testament to
the town's prosperous past.
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A series of fires in the early 1800s
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destroyed many of Portsmouth's buildings,
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but the city managed to
retain numerous examples
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of original colonial architecture.
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Evidence of this rich
history is still prevalent,
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and nowhere more so than
Strawbery Banke historical museum.
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(dramatic music)
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Established in 1966, it
compromises over four hectares
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of restored houses and original gardens.
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Visitors are invited to experience
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nearly four centuries of
typical American life.
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42 historic buildings sit on
their original foundations.
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The earliest dates back to 1695.
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First settled by English
colonists in the 1630s,
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the area was named Strawbery Banke
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due to the abundance of the fruit
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growing wild in the region.
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The neighborhood became known
as the Puddle Dock community
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and its history can be
traced back over 375 years,
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making it one of America's oldest
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continuously occupied districts.
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Across the harbor is New Castle,
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the only town in New Hampshire
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made up entirely of islands.
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With historic forts, parks,
and world class resorts,
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it is a prime tourist destination.
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And perched on the southwest
corner of the main island,
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looking out over the Atlantic,
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Wentworth by the Sea Hotel
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has welcomed visitors
for nearly 150 years.
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Originally known as The Wentworth,
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it was built in 1874
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and modeled on the elegant
ocean liners of the day.
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It made its mark in history
when, in August 1905,
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it hosted the Russian
and Japanese delegates
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who were to negotiate terms
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to end the war between their nations.
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After closing in 1982 and
nearly being demolished,
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Wentworth by the Sea was saved
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and reopened in 2003.
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On the other side of the
island is the peninsula
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that's been the site of sea
defenses for over 200 years,
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Fort Stark.
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What we see today are heavy
fortifications from World War II
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designed to protect
against U-boat attacks,
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a far cry from the earlier buildings here,
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namely timber forts built
to defend the colonists.
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It was named after the 18th century
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Revolutionary War general John Stark,
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whose motto, "Live free or die,"
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was adopted by the state of New Hampshire.
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South across the harbor is
Odiorne Point State Park.
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The 133 hectares include seven
distinct natural habitats,
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all within an hour's walk.
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Though you wouldn't
think looking at it now,
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the park was an important
World War II military base.
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Fort Dearborn, as it was then called,
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was sold to the state in 1961.
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But even after its transformation,
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bunkers still lie hidden
beneath mounds of earth.
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One of the park's biggest attractions
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is the Seacoast Science Center,
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which draws over 100,000
visitors each year.
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Indeed, New Hampshire's coastline
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is teeming with parks and
recreational activities.
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Its 18 miles of shore
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may be the shortest of any US state,
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but it certainly doesn't lack interest,
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like the beachfront town of Rye.
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From the time of the early
settlers and the 18th century,
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it prospered as a rustic fishing outpost
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and local lore still holds tales
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of marauding pirates and buried treasure.
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But as the town evolved,
it went on to become
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a popular resort destination
during the 19th century.
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Today, Rye is primarily a
quiet residential community.
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Many of the neighborhoods along the coast
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are flanked by the rolling sea on one side
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and by winding canals that snake their way
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through the marshes on the other.
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The stately homes dotting the shoreline
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stand as symbols of the
affluent history of the area.
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A variety of architectural
styles are represented
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among the waterfront houses.
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Ranging from the traditional
to more modern influences,
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summer homes and estates have replaced
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the large wooden hotels and
Victorian boarding houses
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that once saw an influx of holidaymakers.
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Our journey now leads us
inland as we travel to Exeter.
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It is included among
the four original towns
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established in New Hampshire in the 1630s,
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and began as a trading port
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with a thriving shipbuilding industry.
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The historic homes on Front Street
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are reminders of Exeter's
early wealth and prosperity.
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The oldest homes were
built in the early 1800s
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for the town's most prominent businessmen.
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Many were built in the
federal architectural style,
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which was favored in
the early 19th century.
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It's also known as Adam's style,
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after the English architect Robert Adam.
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He introduced an adapted
variation of Georgian design,
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characterized by strict attention
to symmetry and balance.
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But of greatest interest is this building,
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Major Blake's Hotel.
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The city's claim is that in October, 1853,
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a secret meeting here of Abolitionists
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led to the founding of
the Republican Party.
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Seven years later,
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the election of their
candidate, Abraham Lincoln,
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would change the course of history.
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Traveling northward takes us over
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New Hampshire's prized autumnal display.
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Throughout the state,
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more than 4,000 farms can be found
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among the richly covered foliage.
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But there's one surprising spectacle
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nestled among the trees,
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the New Hampshire Motor Speedway.
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(upbeat rock music)
(race cars vrooming)
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The site was originally occupied
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by the Bryar Motorsports Park,
which opened in the 1960s.
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The track then came under
new ownership in 1989
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and the entire complex
was completely redesigned.
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Instead of consulting engineers, however,
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the new owners chose to
rely on a single surveyor
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who laid out the course
by planting wooden stakes.
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The method may have
been rather unorthodox,
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but it worked, and the
New Hampshire Speedway
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officially opened in June, 1990.
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Nicknamed the Magic Mile,
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the track hosts hundreds
of events each year,
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from motor club gatherings
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to top tier professional races.
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It is also now the home
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of the longest running
motorcycle race in the US,
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the Loudon Classic,
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which has taken place
every year since 1923.
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Leaving behind the roar
of supercharged engines,
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we arrive at an altogether
more sedate place,
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Canterbury Shaker Village.
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Officially known as the
United Society of Believers,
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the Shakers are a religious group
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first formed in England
in the 18th century.
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They were dubbed the Shaking Quakers,
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owing to their use of dance
during worship services.
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Following a belief in communal
ownership and simple living,
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they became highly successful
builders and craftsmen,
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and their goods came to be synonymous
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with quality and reliability.
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Established in 1792, the
Canterbury Shaker Village
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is one of the oldest
and most well preserved.
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At its height in the 1850s,
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300 people lived and
worked in 100 buildings
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located over 1,200 hectares.
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But gradually, the
community went into decline
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and its last resident, Sister
Ethel Hudson, died in 1992.
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The village is now a museum
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with 25 original restored buildings
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surrounded by roughly 300
hectares of countryside.
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Its mission is to preserve
the 200 year legacy
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of the Canterbury Shakers.
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Some 20 kilometers
north is this vast array
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of lakes and streams.
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The dramatic landscape here was carved out
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by the movement of the
continental ice sheet
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over 15,000 years ago.
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Situated in the foothills
of the White Mountains
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is Lake Winnipesaukee, the
largest in New Hampshire.
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(upbeat music)
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Holidaymakers were traditionally
working class families,
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but there has been an
influx of well-to-do patrons
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since the turn of the century.
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As a result, many of
the old summer cottages
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have been replaced by grand estates.
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The lake covers an area
of 115 square kilometers
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and has over 270 habitable islands.
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Surrounded by three mountain
ranges and wooded shoreline,
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the spring-fed crystal clear water
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is a popular destination for
both holidaymakers and locals.
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We now head deeper into the mountains
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to explore Lake Ossipee.
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At 1,300 hectares, it is the
sixth largest in New Hampshire.
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The backdrop are the Ossipee
Mountains that form a circle
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around the site of a long extinct volcano.
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This lake has an extensive
network of bays and rivers,
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00:14:47,220 --> 00:14:51,073
and portions of the shoreline
remain purposely undeveloped.
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00:14:52,470 --> 00:14:54,990
These protected open spaces are home
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to several endangered animal
species and rare plants.
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00:15:01,890 --> 00:15:04,690
A few villages are located around the edge
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along with small clusters
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of holiday homes and lakefront rentals.
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00:15:10,670 --> 00:15:11,860
Most of the homes were built
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00:15:11,860 --> 00:15:15,310
between the 1950s and the 1970s,
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00:15:15,310 --> 00:15:20,310
long after the rare occurrence
of a 5.5 magnitude earthquake
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00:15:20,510 --> 00:15:23,253
which struck the area in 1940.
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Neighborhoods feature a
variety of architecture,
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from modern styles such as this A-frame
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00:15:33,750 --> 00:15:36,313
to more traditional colonial designs.
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00:15:41,738 --> 00:15:45,490
Further north is Madison
Boulder Natural Area.
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00:15:45,490 --> 00:15:47,440
Its name gives a clue
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00:15:47,440 --> 00:15:49,943
as to what lies deep within the forest.
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00:15:51,220 --> 00:15:55,240
This enormous granite rock
and geological treasure
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00:15:55,240 --> 00:15:59,410
weighs over four-and-a-half
thousand metric tons.
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00:15:59,410 --> 00:16:01,010
During the last ice age,
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00:16:01,010 --> 00:16:03,650
glacial movement transported this stone
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00:16:03,650 --> 00:16:07,163
about three kilometers south
from its original location.
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00:16:10,540 --> 00:16:14,200
This region is a haven,
not only for geologists,
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00:16:14,200 --> 00:16:16,490
but archeologists too.
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00:16:16,490 --> 00:16:20,950
21 prehistoric Native American
sites have been located
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00:16:20,950 --> 00:16:23,800
dating back over 10,000 years.
243
00:16:23,800 --> 00:16:28,350
Exploration by Europeans
began in the mid-17th century
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00:16:28,350 --> 00:16:31,830
and historic sites, such
as the Albany Bridge,
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00:16:31,830 --> 00:16:34,090
can be found all around.
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00:16:34,090 --> 00:16:36,740
But it's the natural beauty of this area,
247
00:16:36,740 --> 00:16:39,680
known as the White
Mountain National Forest,
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00:16:39,680 --> 00:16:40,860
that's the biggest draw
249
00:16:40,860 --> 00:16:43,613
for the numerous visitors
that descend each year.
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00:16:45,148 --> 00:16:47,815
(water rushing)
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00:16:49,900 --> 00:16:52,550
And it's easy to see why.
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00:16:52,550 --> 00:16:55,000
One of the many attractions are the rapids
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00:16:55,000 --> 00:16:57,950
of the aptly named Swift River
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00:16:57,950 --> 00:17:00,383
in the heart of Mount Washington Valley.
255
00:17:01,551 --> 00:17:04,134
(upbeat music)
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00:17:09,650 --> 00:17:12,690
The Kancamagus Highway
accompanies the river
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00:17:12,690 --> 00:17:14,630
for 54 kilometers,
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00:17:14,630 --> 00:17:18,513
dropping over 730 meters
from start to finish.
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00:17:20,800 --> 00:17:23,600
Officially known as Route 112,
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00:17:23,600 --> 00:17:27,420
this road opened in
1959 and has since been
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00:17:27,420 --> 00:17:29,880
one of the most frequented scenic drives
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00:17:29,880 --> 00:17:32,093
in the Northeastern United States.
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00:17:35,750 --> 00:17:38,540
The heaviest traffic occurs in autumn
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00:17:38,540 --> 00:17:42,020
as sightseers come to
marvel at the fiery colors
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00:17:42,020 --> 00:17:44,243
of the leaves during its seasonal peak.
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00:17:46,430 --> 00:17:50,040
Travelers intending to make
the trip must plan ahead,
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00:17:50,040 --> 00:17:53,123
as there are no petrol stations
or mobile phone signals.
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00:17:54,920 --> 00:17:58,283
There are, however,
campsites along the way.
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00:18:00,890 --> 00:18:02,230
The highway was named
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00:18:02,230 --> 00:18:05,650
after the Native American
chief Kancamagus,
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00:18:05,650 --> 00:18:08,333
a name which means the fearless one.
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00:18:09,600 --> 00:18:12,760
He followed in the footsteps
of his father and grandfather
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00:18:12,760 --> 00:18:15,810
by maintaining the Panacook Confederacy,
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00:18:15,810 --> 00:18:19,323
a peaceful alliance of
17 neighboring tribes.
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00:18:24,740 --> 00:18:27,240
And here is just one of the many cascades
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00:18:27,240 --> 00:18:29,340
found throughout the White Mountains
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00:18:29,340 --> 00:18:32,930
which are actually home to
over 100 such waterfalls
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00:18:32,930 --> 00:18:36,223
and cover roughly one
quarter of the entire state.
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00:18:38,920 --> 00:18:41,890
The magma intrusions
that created this range
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00:18:41,890 --> 00:18:43,740
were formed millions of years ago
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00:18:43,740 --> 00:18:46,573
as the North American
plate drifted westward.
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00:18:47,811 --> 00:18:51,050
(water rushing)
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00:18:51,050 --> 00:18:54,880
Spring is the peak time for
New Hampshire's waterfalls,
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00:18:54,880 --> 00:18:58,060
but an autumn visit still
shows the grand scale
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00:18:58,060 --> 00:19:00,303
of these ancient rocky outcrops.
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00:19:05,620 --> 00:19:08,220
All around are geological reminders
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00:19:08,220 --> 00:19:10,263
of how this landscape was shaped.
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00:19:11,730 --> 00:19:14,460
These peaks are known
as the Mote Mountains,
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00:19:14,460 --> 00:19:17,920
formed during the final stage
of magma crystallization
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00:19:17,920 --> 00:19:21,030
some 200 million years ago.
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00:19:21,030 --> 00:19:23,890
The crystalline cavities of Middle Moat
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00:19:23,890 --> 00:19:26,663
make it a favorite among gem collectors.
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00:19:30,247 --> 00:19:32,760
(upbeat music)
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00:19:32,760 --> 00:19:35,860
The metal barrier ensuring
the safety of these visitors
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00:19:35,860 --> 00:19:38,063
is here for a good reason.
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00:19:41,480 --> 00:19:45,990
This is Cathedral Ledge,
a sheer 200-meter drop
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00:19:45,990 --> 00:19:49,070
of bare rock scraped clean by glaciers
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00:19:49,070 --> 00:19:53,263
exposes spectacular views
of the Saco Valley below.
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00:19:58,130 --> 00:20:00,770
Conveniently though, it's the gentle slope
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00:20:00,770 --> 00:20:04,260
on its western flank that
makes it easily accessible
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00:20:04,260 --> 00:20:06,853
and a prized destination for hikers.
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00:20:09,200 --> 00:20:13,550
In fact, one of the trails
known as the Standard Route
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00:20:13,550 --> 00:20:16,270
is amongst the oldest
and most popular hikes
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00:20:16,270 --> 00:20:17,403
in North America.
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00:20:19,050 --> 00:20:22,080
And not surprisingly,
it's a major destination
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00:20:22,080 --> 00:20:23,153
for rock climbers.
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00:20:26,130 --> 00:20:29,160
The first attempts to scale
the face of Cathedral Ledge
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00:20:29,160 --> 00:20:32,790
go back to the 1930s,
representing the birth
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00:20:32,790 --> 00:20:35,133
of technical rock climbing in New England.
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00:20:41,880 --> 00:20:43,400
Graded routes have been devised
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00:20:43,400 --> 00:20:45,830
to suit climbers of every skill level,
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00:20:45,830 --> 00:20:49,890
from easier paths such as
Child's Play and the Prow,
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00:20:49,890 --> 00:20:52,190
to ones that appeal to
the more experienced
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00:20:52,190 --> 00:20:56,663
and adventurous climber
like Asylum and Grim Reaper.
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00:21:07,980 --> 00:21:12,360
This geological marvel is
part of Echo Lake State Park,
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00:21:12,360 --> 00:21:15,700
created in the 1950s to protect the area
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00:21:15,700 --> 00:21:17,233
from commercial development.
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00:21:25,370 --> 00:21:27,610
A favorite among motorcyclists,
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00:21:27,610 --> 00:21:30,930
Crawford Notch Road, like
many others in the region,
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00:21:30,930 --> 00:21:33,113
started life as a trade route.
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00:21:34,140 --> 00:21:36,290
It was named after the Crawford family,
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00:21:36,290 --> 00:21:39,623
who opened an inn along here in 1803.
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00:21:41,070 --> 00:21:43,510
And from that time on, this place oddly
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became associated with myths and legends,
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passed on to successive
generations of travelers,
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00:21:49,860 --> 00:21:53,470
stories of lost treasure,
treachery, and madness
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00:21:53,470 --> 00:21:55,633
that add to the mystique of the place.
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00:21:57,390 --> 00:22:00,680
In his "Twice-Told Tales",
the 19th century author
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00:22:00,680 --> 00:22:03,690
Nathaniel Hawthorne, a frequent visitor,
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00:22:03,690 --> 00:22:07,020
recounted the unfortunate
tale of the Willey family
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00:22:07,020 --> 00:22:10,683
who died tragically in
a rock slide in 1826.
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00:22:11,830 --> 00:22:14,440
Stories of the ghostly cries of spirits
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00:22:14,440 --> 00:22:16,720
said to haunt Crawford Notch
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00:22:16,720 --> 00:22:19,163
are still passed along to travelers today.
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00:22:25,420 --> 00:22:26,710
But not all the stories here
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00:22:26,710 --> 00:22:29,103
are grim reminders of terrible events.
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00:22:30,480 --> 00:22:34,350
The name for this waterfall
was inspired by a poem
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00:22:34,350 --> 00:22:37,703
which had been, in turn,
inspired by a Greek myth,
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00:22:39,330 --> 00:22:40,803
Arethusa Falls.
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00:22:43,270 --> 00:22:46,640
It's said they're named
after the 1820 verse
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00:22:46,640 --> 00:22:49,423
by the English poet Percy Bysshe Shelley.
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00:22:50,780 --> 00:22:54,550
In the poem, a beautiful nymph, Arethusa,
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00:22:54,550 --> 00:22:58,590
is being pursued by the
enamored river god Alpheus.
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00:22:58,590 --> 00:23:01,470
The ocean hears her cries for help,
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00:23:01,470 --> 00:23:04,903
and in a bid to rescue her,
turns her into a fountain.
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00:23:10,270 --> 00:23:12,430
The vast range we're now approaching
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00:23:12,430 --> 00:23:14,190
marks the last leg of our tour
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00:23:14,190 --> 00:23:16,440
of New Hampshire's White Mountains,
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00:23:16,440 --> 00:23:18,113
the Presidential Range.
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00:23:21,970 --> 00:23:23,390
These are the highest peaks
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00:23:23,390 --> 00:23:25,380
in the northeastern United States,
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00:23:25,380 --> 00:23:29,163
with nine of the summits
exceeding 1,200 meters.
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00:23:31,080 --> 00:23:33,500
The first reported
sighting of these summits
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00:23:33,500 --> 00:23:37,330
by European explorers was in 1524
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00:23:37,330 --> 00:23:39,310
from the waters near Portsmouth
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00:23:39,310 --> 00:23:40,973
where we started this journey.
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00:23:42,829 --> 00:23:45,412
(upbeat music)
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00:23:47,010 --> 00:23:52,010
in 1919, father and son
explorers Able and Ethan Crawford
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00:23:52,310 --> 00:23:56,010
carved out a route to the
summit of Mount Washington.
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00:23:56,010 --> 00:24:00,260
The path is still in use
today, making it the oldest
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00:24:00,260 --> 00:24:03,223
continuously used hiking
trail in the country.
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00:24:04,120 --> 00:24:07,350
The following year, Ethan
guided a group of men
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00:24:07,350 --> 00:24:09,200
to the top of this new route
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00:24:09,200 --> 00:24:12,690
for the purpose of naming
the surrounding mountains.
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00:24:12,690 --> 00:24:15,140
They named four of the tallest peaks
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00:24:15,140 --> 00:24:17,100
after the first four presidents
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00:24:17,100 --> 00:24:19,410
to succeed George Washington,
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00:24:19,410 --> 00:24:22,903
Adams, Jefferson, Madison, and Monroe.
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00:24:28,517 --> 00:24:31,640
And finally, we reach the
pinnacle of our journey,
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00:24:31,640 --> 00:24:33,383
Mount Washington itself.
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00:24:35,310 --> 00:24:39,193
The peak measures in at
more than 1,900 meters.
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00:24:41,860 --> 00:24:45,400
To observe and record the
climate conditions of the peak,
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00:24:45,400 --> 00:24:47,400
the Mount Washington Observatory
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00:24:47,400 --> 00:24:50,030
was built in 1932.
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00:24:50,030 --> 00:24:52,853
It was the first of its kind in the world.
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00:24:54,390 --> 00:24:57,200
During a wild storm only two years later,
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00:24:57,200 --> 00:24:59,210
the station measured a wind gust
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00:24:59,210 --> 00:25:03,480
of 372 kilometers per hour.
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00:25:03,480 --> 00:25:06,220
At the time, it was the highest wind speed
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00:25:06,220 --> 00:25:09,110
ever recorded on the Earth's surface
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00:25:09,110 --> 00:25:11,473
and it held until the 1990s.
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00:25:16,750 --> 00:25:18,800
Since their initial construction,
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00:25:18,800 --> 00:25:21,100
this cluster of buildings on the summit
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00:25:21,100 --> 00:25:24,790
has been called the City Among the Clouds,
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00:25:24,790 --> 00:25:26,640
a perfect description,
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00:25:26,640 --> 00:25:30,433
and a breathtaking place
to end this journey.
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00:25:35,973 --> 00:25:38,556
(upbeat music)
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00:26:08,571 --> 00:26:11,321
(logo whooshing)
30882
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