Original subtitles

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- Our journey begins in Portsmouth

on the New Hampshire coast.

Following the shoreline,

we'll turn inland towards Exeter,

one of the state's oldest towns.

Our route takes us over

New Hampshire's famed autumn foliage

on the way to one of the top racetracks in the US,

the New Hampshire Motor Speedway.

We'll visit some of the state's most impressive lakes

before continuing into the vast range

of the White Mountains.

From the breathtaking volcanic structure of Cathedral Ledge,

we'll make our way to Crawford Notch and Arethusa Falls,

one of the most popular cascades in the district.

And we'll end our journey amongst the tallest peaks

in the entire Northeast, the Presidential Range.

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This is the Piscataqua River estuary,

where we find the metropolitan hub of Portsmouth,

the third oldest city in the United States.

The first European account of the area

dates back to 1603,

and settlement officially began 20 years later.

In the 19th century, the city exploded with new growth

during the height of the shipping industry,

and the historic homes and buildings

stand as a testament to the town's prosperous past.

A series of fires in the early 1800s

destroyed many of Portsmouth's buildings,

but the city managed to retain numerous examples

of original colonial architecture.

Evidence of this rich history is still prevalent,

and nowhere more so than Strawbery Banke historical museum.

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Established in 1966, it compromises over four hectares

of restored houses and original gardens.

Visitors are invited to experience

nearly four centuries of typical American life.

42 historic buildings sit on their original foundations.

The earliest dates back to 1695.

First settled by English colonists in the 1630s,

the area was named Strawbery Banke

due to the abundance of the fruit

growing wild in the region.

The neighborhood became known as the Puddle Dock community

and its history can be traced back over 375 years,

making it one of America's oldest

continuously occupied districts.

Across the harbor is New Castle,

the only town in New Hampshire

made up entirely of islands.

With historic forts, parks, and world class resorts,

it is a prime tourist destination.

And perched on the southwest corner of the main island,

looking out over the Atlantic,

Wentworth by the Sea Hotel

has welcomed visitors for nearly 150 years.

Originally known as The Wentworth,

it was built in 1874

and modeled on the elegant ocean liners of the day.

It made its mark in history when, in August 1905,

it hosted the Russian and Japanese delegates

who were to negotiate terms

to end the war between their nations.

After closing in 1982 and nearly being demolished,

Wentworth by the Sea was saved

and reopened in 2003.

On the other side of the island is the peninsula

that's been the site of sea defenses for over 200 years,

Fort Stark.

What we see today are heavy fortifications from World War II

designed to protect against U-boat attacks,

a far cry from the earlier buildings here,

namely timber forts built to defend the colonists.

It was named after the 18th century

Revolutionary War general John Stark,

whose motto, "Live free or die,"

was adopted by the state of New Hampshire.

South across the harbor is Odiorne Point State Park.

The 133 hectares include seven distinct natural habitats,

all within an hour's walk.

Though you wouldn't think looking at it now,

the park was an important World War II military base.

Fort Dearborn, as it was then called,

was sold to the state in 1961.

But even after its transformation,

bunkers still lie hidden beneath mounds of earth.

One of the park's biggest attractions

is the Seacoast Science Center,

which draws over 100,000 visitors each year.

Indeed, New Hampshire's coastline

is teeming with parks and recreational activities.

Its 18 miles of shore

may be the shortest of any US state,

but it certainly doesn't lack interest,

like the beachfront town of Rye.

From the time of the early settlers and the 18th century,

it prospered as a rustic fishing outpost

and local lore still holds tales

of marauding pirates and buried treasure.

But as the town evolved, it went on to become

a popular resort destination during the 19th century.

Today, Rye is primarily a quiet residential community.

Many of the neighborhoods along the coast

are flanked by the rolling sea on one side

and by winding canals that snake their way

through the marshes on the other.

The stately homes dotting the shoreline

stand as symbols of the affluent history of the area.

A variety of architectural styles are represented

among the waterfront houses.

Ranging from the traditional to more modern influences,

summer homes and estates have replaced

the large wooden hotels and Victorian boarding houses

that once saw an influx of holidaymakers.

Our journey now leads us inland as we travel to Exeter.

It is included among the four original towns

established in New Hampshire in the 1630s,

and began as a trading port

with a thriving shipbuilding industry.

The historic homes on Front Street

are reminders of Exeter's early wealth and prosperity.

The oldest homes were built in the early 1800s

for the town's most prominent businessmen.

Many were built in the federal architectural style,

which was favored in the early 19th century.

It's also known as Adam's style,

after the English architect Robert Adam.

He introduced an adapted variation of Georgian design,

characterized by strict attention to symmetry and balance.

But of greatest interest is this building,

Major Blake's Hotel.

The city's claim is that in October, 1853,

a secret meeting here of Abolitionists

led to the founding of the Republican Party.

Seven years later,

the election of their candidate, Abraham Lincoln,

would change the course of history.

Traveling northward takes us over

New Hampshire's prized autumnal display.

Throughout the state,

more than 4,000 farms can be found

among the richly covered foliage.

But there's one surprising spectacle

nestled among the trees,

the New Hampshire Motor Speedway.

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The site was originally occupied

by the Bryar Motorsports Park, which opened in the 1960s.

The track then came under new ownership in 1989

and the entire complex was completely redesigned.

Instead of consulting engineers, however,

the new owners chose to rely on a single surveyor

who laid out the course by planting wooden stakes.

The method may have been rather unorthodox,

but it worked, and the New Hampshire Speedway

officially opened in June, 1990.

Nicknamed the Magic Mile,

the track hosts hundreds of events each year,

from motor club gatherings

to top tier professional races.

It is also now the home

of the longest running motorcycle race in the US,

the Loudon Classic,

which has taken place every year since 1923.

Leaving behind the roar of supercharged engines,

we arrive at an altogether more sedate place,

Canterbury Shaker Village.

Officially known as the United Society of Believers,

the Shakers are a religious group

first formed in England in the 18th century.

They were dubbed the Shaking Quakers,

owing to their use of dance during worship services.

Following a belief in communal ownership and simple living,

they became highly successful builders and craftsmen,

and their goods came to be synonymous

with quality and reliability.

Established in 1792, the Canterbury Shaker Village

is one of the oldest and most well preserved.

At its height in the 1850s,

300 people lived and worked in 100 buildings

located over 1,200 hectares.

But gradually, the community went into decline

and its last resident, Sister Ethel Hudson, died in 1992.

The village is now a museum

with 25 original restored buildings

surrounded by roughly 300 hectares of countryside.

Its mission is to preserve the 200 year legacy

of the Canterbury Shakers.

Some 20 kilometers north is this vast array

of lakes and streams.

The dramatic landscape here was carved out

by the movement of the continental ice sheet

over 15,000 years ago.

Situated in the foothills of the White Mountains

is Lake Winnipesaukee, the largest in New Hampshire.

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Holidaymakers were traditionally working class families,

but there has been an influx of well-to-do patrons

since the turn of the century.

As a result, many of the old summer cottages

have been replaced by grand estates.

The lake covers an area of 115 square kilometers

and has over 270 habitable islands.

Surrounded by three mountain ranges and wooded shoreline,

the spring-fed crystal clear water

is a popular destination for both holidaymakers and locals.

We now head deeper into the mountains

to explore Lake Ossipee.

At 1,300 hectares, it is the sixth largest in New Hampshire.

The backdrop are the Ossipee Mountains that form a circle

around the site of a long extinct volcano.

This lake has an extensive network of bays and rivers,

and portions of the shoreline remain purposely undeveloped.

These protected open spaces are home

to several endangered animal species and rare plants.

A few villages are located around the edge

along with small clusters

of holiday homes and lakefront rentals.

Most of the homes were built

between the 1950s and the 1970s,

long after the rare occurrence of a 5.5 magnitude earthquake

which struck the area in 1940.

Neighborhoods feature a variety of architecture,

from modern styles such as this A-frame

to more traditional colonial designs.

Further north is Madison Boulder Natural Area.

Its name gives a clue

as to what lies deep within the forest.

This enormous granite rock and geological treasure

weighs over four-and-a-half thousand metric tons.

During the last ice age,

glacial movement transported this stone

about three kilometers south from its original location.

This region is a haven, not only for geologists,

but archeologists too.

21 prehistoric Native American sites have been located

dating back over 10,000 years.

Exploration by Europeans began in the mid-17th century

and historic sites, such as the Albany Bridge,

can be found all around.

But it's the natural beauty of this area,

known as the White Mountain National Forest,

that's the biggest draw

for the numerous visitors that descend each year.

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And it's easy to see why.

One of the many attractions are the rapids

of the aptly named Swift River

in the heart of Mount Washington Valley.

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The Kancamagus Highway accompanies the river

for 54 kilometers,

dropping over 730 meters from start to finish.

Officially known as Route 112,

this road opened in 1959 and has since been

one of the most frequented scenic drives

in the Northeastern United States.

The heaviest traffic occurs in autumn

as sightseers come to marvel at the fiery colors

of the leaves during its seasonal peak.

Travelers intending to make the trip must plan ahead,

as there are no petrol stations or mobile phone signals.

There are, however, campsites along the way.

The highway was named

after the Native American chief Kancamagus,

a name which means the fearless one.

He followed in the footsteps of his father and grandfather

by maintaining the Panacook Confederacy,

a peaceful alliance of 17 neighboring tribes.

And here is just one of the many cascades

found throughout the White Mountains

which are actually home to over 100 such waterfalls

and cover roughly one quarter of the entire state.

The magma intrusions that created this range

were formed millions of years ago

as the North American plate drifted westward.

(water rushing)

Spring is the peak time for New Hampshire's waterfalls,

but an autumn visit still shows the grand scale

of these ancient rocky outcrops.

All around are geological reminders

of how this landscape was shaped.

These peaks are known as the Mote Mountains,

formed during the final stage of magma crystallization

some 200 million years ago.

The crystalline cavities of Middle Moat

make it a favorite among gem collectors.

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The metal barrier ensuring the safety of these visitors

is here for a good reason.

This is Cathedral Ledge, a sheer 200-meter drop

of bare rock scraped clean by glaciers

exposes spectacular views of the Saco Valley below.

Conveniently though, it's the gentle slope

on its western flank that makes it easily accessible

and a prized destination for hikers.

In fact, one of the trails known as the Standard Route

is amongst the oldest and most popular hikes

in North America.

And not surprisingly, it's a major destination

for rock climbers.

The first attempts to scale the face of Cathedral Ledge

go back to the 1930s, representing the birth

of technical rock climbing in New England.

Graded routes have been devised

to suit climbers of every skill level,

from easier paths such as Child's Play and the Prow,

to ones that appeal to the more experienced

and adventurous climber like Asylum and Grim Reaper.

This geological marvel is part of Echo Lake State Park,

created in the 1950s to protect the area

from commercial development.

A favorite among motorcyclists,

Crawford Notch Road, like many others in the region,

started life as a trade route.

It was named after the Crawford family,

who opened an inn along here in 1803.

And from that time on, this place oddly

became associated with myths and legends,

passed on to successive generations of travelers,

stories of lost treasure, treachery, and madness

that add to the mystique of the place.

In his "Twice-Told Tales", the 19th century author

Nathaniel Hawthorne, a frequent visitor,

recounted the unfortunate tale of the Willey family

who died tragically in a rock slide in 1826.

Stories of the ghostly cries of spirits

said to haunt Crawford Notch

are still passed along to travelers today.

But not all the stories here

are grim reminders of terrible events.

The name for this waterfall was inspired by a poem

which had been, in turn, inspired by a Greek myth,

Arethusa Falls.

It's said they're named after the 1820 verse

by the English poet Percy Bysshe Shelley.

In the poem, a beautiful nymph, Arethusa,

is being pursued by the enamored river god Alpheus.

The ocean hears her cries for help,

and in a bid to rescue her, turns her into a fountain.

The vast range we're now approaching

marks the last leg of our tour

of New Hampshire's White Mountains,

the Presidential Range.

These are the highest peaks

in the northeastern United States,

with nine of the summits exceeding 1,200 meters.

The first reported sighting of these summits

by European explorers was in 1524

from the waters near Portsmouth

where we started this journey.

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in 1919, father and son explorers Able and Ethan Crawford

carved out a route to the summit of Mount Washington.

The path is still in use today, making it the oldest

continuously used hiking trail in the country.

The following year, Ethan guided a group of men

to the top of this new route

for the purpose of naming the surrounding mountains.

They named four of the tallest peaks

after the first four presidents

to succeed George Washington,

Adams, Jefferson, Madison, and Monroe.

And finally, we reach the pinnacle of our journey,

Mount Washington itself.

The peak measures in at more than 1,900 meters.

To observe and record the climate conditions of the peak,

the Mount Washington Observatory

was built in 1932.

It was the first of its kind in the world.

During a wild storm only two years later,

the station measured a wind gust

of 372 kilometers per hour.

At the time, it was the highest wind speed

ever recorded on the Earth's surface

and it held until the 1990s.

Since their initial construction,

this cluster of buildings on the summit

has been called the City Among the Clouds,

a perfect description,

and a breathtaking place to end this journey.

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