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(wind howling)
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(thrilling music)
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(orchestral music)
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- Our journey begins
in Spain's Andalusian region
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where we explore Europe's
second-highest mountain range
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at the Sierra Nevada National Park.
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From there, we visit the
first Renaissance-style castle
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built outside of Italy
among the white villages
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and fortresses of the mountains.
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We continue across the province of Almeria
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to discover Europe's only
desert, the Tabernas.
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Our desert tour leads
us to the American West
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located here in the Spanish desert.
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Next, we travel to the city of Almeria,
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home of Spain's plastic sea.
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Our route then takes us
along the southeast coast
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and the villages of
its volcanic landscape.
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Our journey ends at La Manga,
famed for its luxurious
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accommodation and world
class golf courses.
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These are the Sierra Nevada
Mountains of southern Spain.
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With more than 20 peaks over 3,000 meters,
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this is the second-highest
range in Europe.
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(upbeat music)
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The upper ridges are scored
by ancient glacial activity.
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The highest peaks are covered
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with snow nearly all year round.
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And the melt continually
supplies water to the landscape
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below creating a
surprisingly rich ecosystem.
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The Sierra Nevadas began their ascent
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around seven million years ago.
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And they are still forming today.
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Pico del Veleta is the
second-highest summit in the range
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and measures nearly 3,400 meters.
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Like these mountains, the rugged terrain
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of Spain's southeast
corner may appear desolate.
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But don't be fooled.
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This landscape is full of
surprises at every turn.
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The remote hamlet of Trevelez
has the highest altitude
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of any village on the Spanish mainland
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and was the last stronghold of the Moors.
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They fled here in the hope
of escaping forced conversion
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to Christianity after the
Castilians took Granada in 1492.
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Today, these mountains comprise
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the Sierra Nevada National Park.
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Covering more than 86,000 hectares,
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it's Spain's largest conservation area.
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The Sierra Nevadas were
once capped with glaciers,
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but these mountains have not escaped
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00:04:10,920 --> 00:04:13,170
the effects of global warming,
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with the last glacier melting as recently
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00:04:16,060 --> 00:04:17,903
as the early 20th century.
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00:04:22,890 --> 00:04:26,680
The village of La Calahorra
sits on the Marquesado Plateau
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in the northern foothills of the range.
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Rich iron ore deposits give
this landscape its rusty color.
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The village is home to a
striking fortress that harbors
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a surprising tale of love and devotion.
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Calahorra Castle.
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It's situated on the site of
an original Moorish stronghold
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which was eventually
surrendered to Cardinal Mendoza,
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a Christian aristocrat
of the late 15th century.
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He, in turn, gave it to his
illegitimate son, Don Rodrigo,
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the first Marquis of Cenete.
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00:05:08,290 --> 00:05:12,420
But the marquis was plagued
by his illegitimate status.
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When he secretly wed Maria de Fonseca
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after her father refused
to consent to the marriage,
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he was imprisoned and Maria
was sent to a convent.
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Upon the death of Maria's parents,
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he was released from prison in 1506
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and the two were finally reunited.
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The old fort was torn down
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and rebuilt with no expense spared.
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Craftsmen and materials were brought
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from Italy to create
this lavish courtyard.
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For years, the marquis lived here
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with his wife and two daughters.
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After the Moorish uprising of 1571,
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the castle sat virtually untouched
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until the early 20th century.
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Like its harsh surroundings,
Calahorra Castle's
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forbidding appearance
possesses a desolate beauty
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all of its own.
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Continuing across Sierra
Nevada's vast northern foothills,
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we find the remote village of Dala.
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Like most Andalusian towns, it
began as a Medieval fortress
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on the precarious frontier
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between the Christian and Moorish realms.
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Steeped in such history, today's
village of 610 inhabitants
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has retained many of
its ancient traditions.
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Even so, the modern world has found
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its way into this rugged landscape.
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The Autovia A-92 is the longest
regional highway in Spain.
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The route begins in Seville
and runs east through Almeria
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granting access to this
once isolated region.
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It was intended to mark the
1992 World Expo in Seville.
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But a mudslide and red
tape put the road's opening
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a year behind schedule.
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However, the controversy
did not end there.
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Accusations of corruption led to a scandal
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and criminal charges for Andalusia's
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former director of roads.
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After 14 years and two trials,
he was eventually acquitted.
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We continue our tour of
Sierra Nevada's northern slope
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at the village of Abrecina,
which still retains
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its original Medieval layout.
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(acoustic guitar music)
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Abrecina flourished in the 18th century
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due to a prosperous lumber trade.
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But over-exploitation
led to a slow decline
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00:08:05,010 --> 00:08:07,550
over the next 200 years.
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00:08:07,550 --> 00:08:10,140
A recent rise in agriculture and tourism
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has since steadied the economy.
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As we leave Sierra Nevada,
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this fertile valley on the park's border
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reminds us of the surprising
beauty of this arid region.
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Survival in these harsh
environmental conditions
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depends on strength and adaptability.
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Something that's well-known to
the villagers of Nacimiento.
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Agriculture has always been
central to the town's economy.
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The vineyards, which provided
prosperity in the 19th
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00:08:47,780 --> 00:08:49,620
and early 20th centuries,
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have been replaced with barley fields.
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00:08:52,870 --> 00:08:56,170
But the tradition of
agriculture continues.
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00:08:56,170 --> 00:09:00,200
Rural tourism has not yet
found its way to Nacimiento
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00:09:00,200 --> 00:09:03,223
and the village retains
an air of authenticity.
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Our next destination is one
that holds many surprises.
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The Tabernas Desert.
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It's the only one in Europe.
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And although it may appear uninhabitable,
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this rugged terrain supports
a rich, diverse ecosystem.
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So much so that Tabernas
has been designated
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an area of special protection.
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It is also famed for its olive oils.
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Temperatures are fairly
consistent throughout the year,
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providing excellent conditions
for olive groves to thrive.
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00:09:48,080 --> 00:09:49,950
When the Sierra Alhamilla Mountains
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of the Tabernas Desert rose
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from the sea seven million years ago,
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a vast saltwater lake was formed.
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Over time, the lake disappeared.
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00:10:00,690 --> 00:10:03,620
But it left behind a fascinating glimpse
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00:10:03,620 --> 00:10:07,313
into the rich geological
history of southern Spain.
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Situated among the cliffs
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is yet another fascinating discovery.
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00:10:21,910 --> 00:10:24,960
At first glance, these
structures appear to be no more
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than a cluster of abandoned buildings.
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00:10:27,610 --> 00:10:31,033
But a closer look reveals
their true origin.
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00:10:33,010 --> 00:10:36,280
Movie fans may recognize
this set from the hundreds
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of spaghetti westerns shot in the region
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00:10:38,650 --> 00:10:40,973
throughout the 1960s and '70s.
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00:10:41,950 --> 00:10:46,103
Most notably, the films of
famed director Sergio Leone.
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00:10:48,280 --> 00:10:50,320
Hollywood legends Henry Fonda,
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00:10:50,320 --> 00:10:52,720
Jason Robards, and Charles Bronson
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all walked the dusty streets here
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as they filmed "Once
Upon a Time in the West".
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00:11:01,120 --> 00:11:03,850
This set, known as Western Leone,
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00:11:03,850 --> 00:11:08,070
is the smallest of the three
in the Tabernas Desert.
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00:11:08,070 --> 00:11:10,060
Though no longer used for filming,
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00:11:10,060 --> 00:11:12,530
it is open for public tours.
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00:11:12,530 --> 00:11:16,193
Visitors can relive scenes
from their favorite shootouts.
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00:11:17,520 --> 00:11:20,573
But not all of the films
made here were westerns.
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00:11:21,410 --> 00:11:24,087
Epic productions such
as "Lawrence of Arabia",
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"Cleopatra", and "Patton" were
also drawn to this landscape.
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(epic music)
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But without doubt, the
region is most closely tied
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to the westerns of the era.
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Sergio Leone chose this part of Spain
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because of its resemblance
to the American West
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and scores of other
directors followed suit.
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This wooden garrison is part
of the set known as Fort Bravo,
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or Texas Hollywood.
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During its heyday, many
locals were employed
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for crowd and action sequences.
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Stuntmen and extras can still
be found exchanging stories
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about the numerous times they
were shot or blown up here.
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00:12:18,753 --> 00:12:21,420
(western music)
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00:12:24,260 --> 00:12:27,917
The Fort Bravo set was
built for the iconic film
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00:12:27,917 --> 00:12:30,610
"The Good, the Bad and the Ugly",
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which was the last movie
in the successful trilogy
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that launched the cinematic career
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of a young actor named Clint Eastwood.
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But today, it's open to the public
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and features a full working
saloon as well as a small zoo.
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00:12:47,810 --> 00:12:51,230
The set and location are
still used for filming,
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though working in the brutal
desert conditions isn't easy.
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Temperatures here can reach
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47 degrees celsius in the summer.
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When film production came
to the Tabernas Desert,
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reaching these remote locations
was extremely arduous.
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The trip was a grueling nine
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00:13:10,500 --> 00:13:13,280
and a half hour trek from Madrid.
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00:13:13,280 --> 00:13:18,223
Today, with the A-92 highway,
it takes only half that time.
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00:13:19,400 --> 00:13:21,730
The last of the three desert movie sets
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is also the largest and most famous.
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Visitors here can take
in a wild west stunt show
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00:13:28,980 --> 00:13:31,583
such as Jesse James's final shootout.
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00:13:32,800 --> 00:13:37,160
The Oasis, or Mini-Hollywood,
also features a zoo,
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00:13:37,160 --> 00:13:40,783
water park, lush gardens, and two museums.
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00:13:41,920 --> 00:13:43,910
Purchased by local actors,
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00:13:43,910 --> 00:13:46,460
then later by a hotel investment group,
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00:13:46,460 --> 00:13:49,563
it's since been transformed
into a theme park.
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More than 400 movies were
shot on these three sets
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and the people of the region
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have embraced this unique, modern heritage
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00:14:01,020 --> 00:14:04,110
with titles such as "A Fistful of Dollars"
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00:14:04,110 --> 00:14:07,890
and "For a Few Dollars
More", these films redefined
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00:14:07,890 --> 00:14:12,290
not only a whole movie genre,
but also the desert culture
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00:14:12,290 --> 00:14:14,653
of Tabernas for years to come.
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00:14:20,960 --> 00:14:22,900
But the foundations of this culture
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00:14:22,900 --> 00:14:25,713
were laid long before
the first camera rolled.
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00:14:27,080 --> 00:14:30,080
The Tabernas Castle stands as a reminder
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00:14:30,080 --> 00:14:32,123
of the region's ancient past.
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00:14:34,400 --> 00:14:37,460
The fortress was built in the 11th century
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00:14:37,460 --> 00:14:39,700
and legends of secret passageways
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00:14:39,700 --> 00:14:42,800
once connecting this place to
different parts of the city
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00:14:42,800 --> 00:14:45,193
still circulate among the locals.
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00:14:46,890 --> 00:14:50,720
The structure originally
occupied the entire hill
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00:14:50,720 --> 00:14:53,730
and the remains we see today can only hint
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00:14:53,730 --> 00:14:55,163
at its former glory.
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00:14:57,230 --> 00:15:01,710
The castle was surrendered
to the Christians in 1489
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00:15:01,710 --> 00:15:04,963
and was abandoned by the
end of the 16th century.
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00:15:07,540 --> 00:15:12,323
In 1993, it was declared a
monument of historic interest.
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00:15:14,280 --> 00:15:17,220
And with such relics of bygone eras,
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00:15:17,220 --> 00:15:20,463
evidence of the modern
age is never far away.
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00:15:23,560 --> 00:15:26,993
This is the solar platform of Almeria.
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00:15:29,630 --> 00:15:33,160
The facility was one of the
earliest of its kind in Europe
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as well as a gleaming
testament to a new era
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00:15:36,360 --> 00:15:38,070
in the course of Spain's history
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because the country now
ranks fourth in the world
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for solar power technology.
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00:15:50,330 --> 00:15:54,070
This installation in Almeria
is also the largest center
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00:15:54,070 --> 00:15:57,043
for solar technology
and research in Europe.
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00:15:59,030 --> 00:16:01,500
Climate conditions are similar to those
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00:16:01,500 --> 00:16:05,430
of many developing countries
in the equatorial zone
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00:16:05,430 --> 00:16:08,020
and the testing conducted at this facility
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00:16:08,020 --> 00:16:10,793
may be vital to the
future of those nations.
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The next leg of our journey will take us
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some 30 kilometers south over
the Sierra Alhamilla range
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00:16:24,720 --> 00:16:26,373
and down towards the coast.
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00:16:31,930 --> 00:16:35,520
This parched landscape
might seem inhospitable
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00:16:35,520 --> 00:16:38,840
but it's actually home
to 50 human inhabitants
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00:16:38,840 --> 00:16:40,770
and is recognized as a place
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00:16:40,770 --> 00:16:43,633
of community importance in Almeria.
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00:16:46,880 --> 00:16:48,890
But even in this desolate place,
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00:16:48,890 --> 00:16:52,363
we find more signs of
the technological age.
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00:16:54,490 --> 00:16:57,530
Tens of thousands of plastic poly tunnels
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00:16:57,530 --> 00:17:00,820
have transformed one of
Spain's most barren corners
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00:17:00,820 --> 00:17:03,130
into Europe's biggest greenhouse,
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00:17:03,130 --> 00:17:05,993
providing produce on a massive scale.
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00:17:07,370 --> 00:17:11,430
The tunnels cover an
estimated 30,000 hectares,
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00:17:11,430 --> 00:17:14,633
making it the largest
concentration in the world.
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00:17:16,110 --> 00:17:18,440
Whether or not this agricultural boom
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00:17:18,440 --> 00:17:22,600
is a blessing or a curse
depends on the perspective.
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00:17:22,600 --> 00:17:25,690
Whilst the industry has
brought a newfound prosperity
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00:17:25,690 --> 00:17:29,390
to the province, it
comes with a whole range
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of environmental concerns.
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00:17:35,890 --> 00:17:39,340
The weather around the coastal
mountains is changeable.
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And despite enjoying fine, bright skies
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on our journey up until now,
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it's time for a quite drastic change.
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Storms are moving in and the
mountains are obscured by mist
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arriving from Spain's southeast
shore, Costa de Almeria.
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00:17:57,088 --> 00:17:59,671
(exotic music)
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00:18:05,250 --> 00:18:08,810
Here, we follow the winding costal road.
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00:18:08,810 --> 00:18:13,280
The holiday boom of the 1960s
managed to overlook the area
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00:18:13,280 --> 00:18:16,950
and this stretch of road, the AL-1065,
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00:18:16,950 --> 00:18:20,070
connects one of the last
undiscovered regions
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on Spain's Mediterranean coast.
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It starts at the village of Villaricos
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and runs along the rocky
shoreline through El Colon
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00:18:33,120 --> 00:18:36,643
to the outskirts of San
Juan De Los Terreros.
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Like many other places in Spain,
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this area has witnessed
a frenzy of construction
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00:18:43,280 --> 00:18:45,980
and development over the past decade.
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00:18:45,980 --> 00:18:49,750
The trend began in earnest
in the early 2000s.
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00:18:49,750 --> 00:18:54,640
The market rose steadily
and then peaked in 2008.
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00:18:54,640 --> 00:18:58,710
When the recession hit, these
areas found themselves flooded
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with unsold and uncompleted
apartment blocks,
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00:19:02,460 --> 00:19:04,340
symbols of the onslaught
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00:19:04,340 --> 00:19:06,763
of speculative construction in Spain.
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00:19:08,830 --> 00:19:13,200
Since 2011, the market
has begun a slow crawl
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out of the economic crisis.
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00:19:15,520 --> 00:19:18,070
The majority of buyers are foreigners
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00:19:18,070 --> 00:19:19,373
in search of a bargain.
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00:19:21,860 --> 00:19:25,280
Construction cranes have
resumed their labors,
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00:19:25,280 --> 00:19:27,813
but the market continues to waver.
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00:19:30,610 --> 00:19:32,930
However, much of the new development
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00:19:32,930 --> 00:19:35,320
has been a boost for tourism.
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00:19:35,320 --> 00:19:39,120
San Juan De Los Terreros
was a quiet fishing village
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00:19:39,120 --> 00:19:40,943
until the resorts took over.
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00:19:45,250 --> 00:19:48,747
Fortunately, the historic
battery was spared.
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00:19:50,720 --> 00:19:55,010
Built in 1746, the fort was
intended to protect the area
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00:19:55,010 --> 00:19:56,653
from pirate attacks.
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00:19:57,780 --> 00:20:01,230
Instead, it was caught up in
the Peninsular War with France
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00:20:01,230 --> 00:20:03,620
in the early 1800s.
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00:20:03,620 --> 00:20:06,830
Heavily damaged, it fell into disrepair
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00:20:06,830 --> 00:20:08,653
until it was finally restored.
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00:20:13,290 --> 00:20:15,600
Storms still threaten to move in
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00:20:15,600 --> 00:20:17,970
as we make our way up the rugged coast
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00:20:17,970 --> 00:20:20,653
to the seaside town of Aguilas.
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00:20:21,880 --> 00:20:25,343
Its history dates back to when
it was a Roman fishing port.
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00:20:26,410 --> 00:20:28,150
In the mid 19th century,
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00:20:28,150 --> 00:20:30,693
it developed into a large British colony.
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00:20:32,080 --> 00:20:34,270
While the town's culture has been shaped
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00:20:34,270 --> 00:20:38,520
by its past inhabitants,
none has been so influential
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00:20:38,520 --> 00:20:40,710
as the jagged, volcanic coast
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00:20:40,710 --> 00:20:43,860
from which the village of Aguilas emerged.
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00:20:43,860 --> 00:20:47,010
Today, like many of
Almeria's coastal cities,
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00:20:47,010 --> 00:20:50,910
the economy of Aguilas
relies on seasonal tourism
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00:20:50,910 --> 00:20:52,503
and greenhouse farming.
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00:20:53,440 --> 00:20:57,500
An estimated 2.7 million tons of produce
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are grown under Almeria's
plastic sea each year.
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00:21:02,700 --> 00:21:05,030
Greenhouse farming was first introduced
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00:21:05,030 --> 00:21:08,010
to Almeria in the 1960s.
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00:21:08,010 --> 00:21:12,130
But the industry gained
real traction in the '80s.
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00:21:12,130 --> 00:21:15,380
Today, Spain possesses
the second-highest number
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00:21:15,380 --> 00:21:18,553
of greenhouses in the world after China.
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00:21:21,010 --> 00:21:23,680
We head back over the mountains to resume
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00:21:23,680 --> 00:21:26,464
our tour of Spain's southeast coast.
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00:21:26,464 --> 00:21:29,797
(acoustic guitar music)
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00:21:30,840 --> 00:21:33,170
The jagged peaks and rocky hills
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were formed from layers of cooling lava
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00:21:36,070 --> 00:21:40,040
which covered the summits
as they rose from the sea.
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00:21:40,040 --> 00:21:43,710
It's here we find the
remote village of El Portus,
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00:21:43,710 --> 00:21:46,023
tucked away in this tiny bay.
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00:21:46,860 --> 00:21:50,260
The site is a well-known naturist beach.
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00:21:50,260 --> 00:21:51,293
We'll move along.
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00:21:53,570 --> 00:21:56,210
Further out to sea is an even better view
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00:21:56,210 --> 00:21:59,233
of Almeria's volcanic coastal landscape.
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00:22:00,660 --> 00:22:04,240
This huge rock, known
as Las Palomas Island,
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00:22:04,240 --> 00:22:07,943
gives us yet another glimpse
of the region's rich geology.
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00:22:12,630 --> 00:22:16,480
But one luxurious way to
take in the coastal landscape
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00:22:16,480 --> 00:22:19,800
would be from the deck of the Leander.
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00:22:19,800 --> 00:22:22,510
She's one of the world's
biggest super yachts
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00:22:22,510 --> 00:22:24,223
available for private charter.
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00:22:27,990 --> 00:22:30,300
Probably her most notable appearance
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00:22:30,300 --> 00:22:32,790
was at a special super yacht cup event
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00:22:32,790 --> 00:22:34,873
held on the south coast of England.
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00:22:38,160 --> 00:22:39,530
It took place in honor
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00:22:39,530 --> 00:22:43,133
of Queen Elizabeth's Diamond
Jubilee celebration in 2012.
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00:22:45,210 --> 00:22:49,670
The Leander hosted the queen
as she made her parade of sail
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00:22:49,670 --> 00:22:51,673
on the final day of the regatta.
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Looming over the Mediterranean,
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these peaks hold a treasure
trove for fossil hunters
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00:23:01,650 --> 00:23:03,720
and scholars alike.
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00:23:03,720 --> 00:23:08,170
Paleontologists have discovered
fossilized animal footprints
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00:23:08,170 --> 00:23:10,673
which are 11 million years old.
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00:23:14,740 --> 00:23:18,210
This coast also has an
extensive mining history
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00:23:18,210 --> 00:23:21,853
that dates back to the Phoenicians
and the Ancient Greeks.
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00:23:23,400 --> 00:23:27,410
Tucked behind the mountains
was once the site of Atamaria,
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00:23:27,410 --> 00:23:30,473
a small village of miners,
farmers, and herdsmen.
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00:23:31,320 --> 00:23:34,490
The town's first tractor
wasn't even introduced
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00:23:34,490 --> 00:23:36,423
until the late 1950s.
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00:23:37,530 --> 00:23:40,510
But all that was to change dramatically
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00:23:40,510 --> 00:23:41,973
in less than a decade.
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00:23:43,610 --> 00:23:46,780
La Manga began as an exclusive resort
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00:23:46,780 --> 00:23:49,720
where property owners
were also shareholders.
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00:23:49,720 --> 00:23:52,430
The facilities were to
be strictly reserved
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00:23:52,430 --> 00:23:55,803
for no more than 3,000
members and their guests.
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00:23:58,130 --> 00:24:00,260
Today, La Manga has expanded
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00:24:00,260 --> 00:24:02,940
well beyond the original vision.
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00:24:02,940 --> 00:24:05,390
The apartments at Las Lomas Village
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00:24:05,390 --> 00:24:08,063
are among the self-service
rentals available.
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00:24:09,600 --> 00:24:13,593
The resort also offers private
holiday homes and timeshares.
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00:24:17,320 --> 00:24:21,510
Scarcely any trace of the old
village of Atamaria remains
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00:24:21,510 --> 00:24:23,700
and La Manga has developed into one
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00:24:23,700 --> 00:24:25,993
of the top resorts in Europe.
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00:24:30,860 --> 00:24:34,180
Golf is at the core of La Manga's success.
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00:24:34,180 --> 00:24:37,540
The first courses were built in 1971.
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00:24:37,540 --> 00:24:39,330
And only two years later,
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00:24:39,330 --> 00:24:41,723
it played host to the Spanish Open.
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00:24:42,560 --> 00:24:45,010
Today, there are two full courses
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00:24:45,010 --> 00:24:48,530
with a total of 14 lakes, 200 bunkers,
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00:24:48,530 --> 00:24:51,183
and 36 fairways and greens.
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00:24:53,350 --> 00:24:55,790
Visitors can be mistaken
into thinking these
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00:24:55,790 --> 00:25:00,360
are simply gardens as
more than 3,000 palm trees
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00:25:00,360 --> 00:25:01,763
line these holes.
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00:25:03,610 --> 00:25:06,683
But golf isn't the only
recreation available here.
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00:25:08,690 --> 00:25:11,770
La Manga's tennis facilities
have gained the attention
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00:25:11,770 --> 00:25:14,290
of many professional organizations
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00:25:14,290 --> 00:25:16,580
serving as a winter training base
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00:25:16,580 --> 00:25:19,053
and hosting prestigious tournaments.
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00:25:20,240 --> 00:25:23,390
This resort represents
yet another unexpected
383
00:25:23,390 --> 00:25:27,720
and surprising discovery hidden
within the region's harsh,
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00:25:27,720 --> 00:25:29,710
yet beautiful, landscape.
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00:25:29,710 --> 00:25:33,153
And for us, it's where
we end this journey.
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00:25:35,602 --> 00:25:38,519
(orchestral music)
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00:26:08,681 --> 00:26:11,348
(air whooshing)
31249
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