Original subtitles

(wind howling)

(thrilling music)

(orchestral music)

- Our journey begins in Spain's Andalusian region

where we explore Europe's second-highest mountain range

at the Sierra Nevada National Park.

From there, we visit the first Renaissance-style castle

built outside of Italy among the white villages

and fortresses of the mountains.

We continue across the province of Almeria

to discover Europe's only desert, the Tabernas.

Our desert tour leads us to the American West

located here in the Spanish desert.

Next, we travel to the city of Almeria,

home of Spain's plastic sea.

Our route then takes us along the southeast coast

and the villages of its volcanic landscape.

Our journey ends at La Manga, famed for its luxurious

accommodation and world class golf courses.

These are the Sierra Nevada Mountains of southern Spain.

With more than 20 peaks over 3,000 meters,

this is the second-highest range in Europe.

(upbeat music)

The upper ridges are scored by ancient glacial activity.

The highest peaks are covered

with snow nearly all year round.

And the melt continually supplies water to the landscape

below creating a surprisingly rich ecosystem.

The Sierra Nevadas began their ascent

around seven million years ago.

And they are still forming today.

Pico del Veleta is the second-highest summit in the range

and measures nearly 3,400 meters.

Like these mountains, the rugged terrain

of Spain's southeast corner may appear desolate.

But don't be fooled.

This landscape is full of surprises at every turn.

The remote hamlet of Trevelez has the highest altitude

of any village on the Spanish mainland

and was the last stronghold of the Moors.

They fled here in the hope of escaping forced conversion

to Christianity after the Castilians took Granada in 1492.

Today, these mountains comprise

the Sierra Nevada National Park.

Covering more than 86,000 hectares,

it's Spain's largest conservation area.

The Sierra Nevadas were once capped with glaciers,

but these mountains have not escaped

the effects of global warming,

with the last glacier melting as recently

as the early 20th century.

The village of La Calahorra sits on the Marquesado Plateau

in the northern foothills of the range.

Rich iron ore deposits give this landscape its rusty color.

The village is home to a striking fortress that harbors

a surprising tale of love and devotion.

Calahorra Castle.

It's situated on the site of an original Moorish stronghold

which was eventually surrendered to Cardinal Mendoza,

a Christian aristocrat of the late 15th century.

He, in turn, gave it to his illegitimate son, Don Rodrigo,

the first Marquis of Cenete.

But the marquis was plagued by his illegitimate status.

When he secretly wed Maria de Fonseca

after her father refused to consent to the marriage,

he was imprisoned and Maria was sent to a convent.

Upon the death of Maria's parents,

he was released from prison in 1506

and the two were finally reunited.

The old fort was torn down

and rebuilt with no expense spared.

Craftsmen and materials were brought

from Italy to create this lavish courtyard.

For years, the marquis lived here

with his wife and two daughters.

After the Moorish uprising of 1571,

the castle sat virtually untouched

until the early 20th century.

Like its harsh surroundings, Calahorra Castle's

forbidding appearance possesses a desolate beauty

all of its own.

Continuing across Sierra Nevada's vast northern foothills,

we find the remote village of Dala.

Like most Andalusian towns, it began as a Medieval fortress

on the precarious frontier

between the Christian and Moorish realms.

Steeped in such history, today's village of 610 inhabitants

has retained many of its ancient traditions.

Even so, the modern world has found

its way into this rugged landscape.

The Autovia A-92 is the longest regional highway in Spain.

The route begins in Seville and runs east through Almeria

granting access to this once isolated region.

It was intended to mark the 1992 World Expo in Seville.

But a mudslide and red tape put the road's opening

a year behind schedule.

However, the controversy did not end there.

Accusations of corruption led to a scandal

and criminal charges for Andalusia's

former director of roads.

After 14 years and two trials, he was eventually acquitted.

We continue our tour of Sierra Nevada's northern slope

at the village of Abrecina, which still retains

its original Medieval layout.

(acoustic guitar music)

Abrecina flourished in the 18th century

due to a prosperous lumber trade.

But over-exploitation led to a slow decline

over the next 200 years.

A recent rise in agriculture and tourism

has since steadied the economy.

As we leave Sierra Nevada,

this fertile valley on the park's border

reminds us of the surprising beauty of this arid region.

Survival in these harsh environmental conditions

depends on strength and adaptability.

Something that's well-known to the villagers of Nacimiento.

Agriculture has always been central to the town's economy.

The vineyards, which provided prosperity in the 19th

and early 20th centuries,

have been replaced with barley fields.

But the tradition of agriculture continues.

Rural tourism has not yet found its way to Nacimiento

and the village retains an air of authenticity.

Our next destination is one that holds many surprises.

The Tabernas Desert.

It's the only one in Europe.

And although it may appear uninhabitable,

this rugged terrain supports a rich, diverse ecosystem.

So much so that Tabernas has been designated

an area of special protection.

It is also famed for its olive oils.

Temperatures are fairly consistent throughout the year,

providing excellent conditions for olive groves to thrive.

When the Sierra Alhamilla Mountains

of the Tabernas Desert rose

from the sea seven million years ago,

a vast saltwater lake was formed.

Over time, the lake disappeared.

But it left behind a fascinating glimpse

into the rich geological history of southern Spain.

Situated among the cliffs

is yet another fascinating discovery.

At first glance, these structures appear to be no more

than a cluster of abandoned buildings.

But a closer look reveals their true origin.

Movie fans may recognize this set from the hundreds

of spaghetti westerns shot in the region

throughout the 1960s and '70s.

Most notably, the films of famed director Sergio Leone.

Hollywood legends Henry Fonda,

Jason Robards, and Charles Bronson

all walked the dusty streets here

as they filmed "Once Upon a Time in the West".

This set, known as Western Leone,

is the smallest of the three in the Tabernas Desert.

Though no longer used for filming,

it is open for public tours.

Visitors can relive scenes from their favorite shootouts.

But not all of the films made here were westerns.

Epic productions such as "Lawrence of Arabia",

"Cleopatra", and "Patton" were also drawn to this landscape.

(epic music)

But without doubt, the region is most closely tied

to the westerns of the era.

Sergio Leone chose this part of Spain

because of its resemblance to the American West

and scores of other directors followed suit.

This wooden garrison is part of the set known as Fort Bravo,

or Texas Hollywood.

During its heyday, many locals were employed

for crowd and action sequences.

Stuntmen and extras can still be found exchanging stories

about the numerous times they were shot or blown up here.

(western music)

The Fort Bravo set was built for the iconic film

"The Good, the Bad and the Ugly",

which was the last movie in the successful trilogy

that launched the cinematic career

of a young actor named Clint Eastwood.

But today, it's open to the public

and features a full working saloon as well as a small zoo.

The set and location are still used for filming,

though working in the brutal desert conditions isn't easy.

Temperatures here can reach

47 degrees celsius in the summer.

When film production came to the Tabernas Desert,

reaching these remote locations was extremely arduous.

The trip was a grueling nine

and a half hour trek from Madrid.

Today, with the A-92 highway, it takes only half that time.

The last of the three desert movie sets

is also the largest and most famous.

Visitors here can take in a wild west stunt show

such as Jesse James's final shootout.

The Oasis, or Mini-Hollywood, also features a zoo,

water park, lush gardens, and two museums.

Purchased by local actors,

then later by a hotel investment group,

it's since been transformed into a theme park.

More than 400 movies were shot on these three sets

and the people of the region

have embraced this unique, modern heritage

with titles such as "A Fistful of Dollars"

and "For a Few Dollars More", these films redefined

not only a whole movie genre, but also the desert culture

of Tabernas for years to come.

But the foundations of this culture

were laid long before the first camera rolled.

The Tabernas Castle stands as a reminder

of the region's ancient past.

The fortress was built in the 11th century

and legends of secret passageways

once connecting this place to different parts of the city

still circulate among the locals.

The structure originally occupied the entire hill

and the remains we see today can only hint

at its former glory.

The castle was surrendered to the Christians in 1489

and was abandoned by the end of the 16th century.

In 1993, it was declared a monument of historic interest.

And with such relics of bygone eras,

evidence of the modern age is never far away.

This is the solar platform of Almeria.

The facility was one of the earliest of its kind in Europe

as well as a gleaming testament to a new era

in the course of Spain's history

because the country now ranks fourth in the world

for solar power technology.

This installation in Almeria is also the largest center

for solar technology and research in Europe.

Climate conditions are similar to those

of many developing countries in the equatorial zone

and the testing conducted at this facility

may be vital to the future of those nations.

The next leg of our journey will take us

some 30 kilometers south over the Sierra Alhamilla range

and down towards the coast.

This parched landscape might seem inhospitable

but it's actually home to 50 human inhabitants

and is recognized as a place

of community importance in Almeria.

But even in this desolate place,

we find more signs of the technological age.

Tens of thousands of plastic poly tunnels

have transformed one of Spain's most barren corners

into Europe's biggest greenhouse,

providing produce on a massive scale.

The tunnels cover an estimated 30,000 hectares,

making it the largest concentration in the world.

Whether or not this agricultural boom

is a blessing or a curse depends on the perspective.

Whilst the industry has brought a newfound prosperity

to the province, it comes with a whole range

of environmental concerns.

The weather around the coastal mountains is changeable.

And despite enjoying fine, bright skies

on our journey up until now,

it's time for a quite drastic change.

Storms are moving in and the mountains are obscured by mist

arriving from Spain's southeast shore, Costa de Almeria.

(exotic music)

Here, we follow the winding costal road.

The holiday boom of the 1960s managed to overlook the area

and this stretch of road, the AL-1065,

connects one of the last undiscovered regions

on Spain's Mediterranean coast.

It starts at the village of Villaricos

and runs along the rocky shoreline through El Colon

to the outskirts of San Juan De Los Terreros.

Like many other places in Spain,

this area has witnessed a frenzy of construction

and development over the past decade.

The trend began in earnest in the early 2000s.

The market rose steadily and then peaked in 2008.

When the recession hit, these areas found themselves flooded

with unsold and uncompleted apartment blocks,

symbols of the onslaught

of speculative construction in Spain.

Since 2011, the market has begun a slow crawl

out of the economic crisis.

The majority of buyers are foreigners

in search of a bargain.

Construction cranes have resumed their labors,

but the market continues to waver.

However, much of the new development

has been a boost for tourism.

San Juan De Los Terreros was a quiet fishing village

until the resorts took over.

Fortunately, the historic battery was spared.

Built in 1746, the fort was intended to protect the area

from pirate attacks.

Instead, it was caught up in the Peninsular War with France

in the early 1800s.

Heavily damaged, it fell into disrepair

until it was finally restored.

Storms still threaten to move in

as we make our way up the rugged coast

to the seaside town of Aguilas.

Its history dates back to when it was a Roman fishing port.

In the mid 19th century,

it developed into a large British colony.

While the town's culture has been shaped

by its past inhabitants, none has been so influential

as the jagged, volcanic coast

from which the village of Aguilas emerged.

Today, like many of Almeria's coastal cities,

the economy of Aguilas relies on seasonal tourism

and greenhouse farming.

An estimated 2.7 million tons of produce

are grown under Almeria's plastic sea each year.

Greenhouse farming was first introduced

to Almeria in the 1960s.

But the industry gained real traction in the '80s.

Today, Spain possesses the second-highest number

of greenhouses in the world after China.

We head back over the mountains to resume

our tour of Spain's southeast coast.

(acoustic guitar music)

The jagged peaks and rocky hills

were formed from layers of cooling lava

which covered the summits as they rose from the sea.

It's here we find the remote village of El Portus,

tucked away in this tiny bay.

The site is a well-known naturist beach.

We'll move along.

Further out to sea is an even better view

of Almeria's volcanic coastal landscape.

This huge rock, known as Las Palomas Island,

gives us yet another glimpse of the region's rich geology.

But one luxurious way to take in the coastal landscape

would be from the deck of the Leander.

She's one of the world's biggest super yachts

available for private charter.

Probably her most notable appearance

was at a special super yacht cup event

held on the south coast of England.

It took place in honor

of Queen Elizabeth's Diamond Jubilee celebration in 2012.

The Leander hosted the queen as she made her parade of sail

on the final day of the regatta.

Looming over the Mediterranean,

these peaks hold a treasure trove for fossil hunters

and scholars alike.

Paleontologists have discovered fossilized animal footprints

which are 11 million years old.

This coast also has an extensive mining history

that dates back to the Phoenicians and the Ancient Greeks.

Tucked behind the mountains was once the site of Atamaria,

a small village of miners, farmers, and herdsmen.

The town's first tractor wasn't even introduced

until the late 1950s.

But all that was to change dramatically

in less than a decade.

La Manga began as an exclusive resort

where property owners were also shareholders.

The facilities were to be strictly reserved

for no more than 3,000 members and their guests.

Today, La Manga has expanded

well beyond the original vision.

The apartments at Las Lomas Village

are among the self-service rentals available.

The resort also offers private holiday homes and timeshares.

Scarcely any trace of the old village of Atamaria remains

and La Manga has developed into one

of the top resorts in Europe.

Golf is at the core of La Manga's success.

The first courses were built in 1971.

And only two years later,

it played host to the Spanish Open.

Today, there are two full courses

with a total of 14 lakes, 200 bunkers,

and 36 fairways and greens.

Visitors can be mistaken into thinking these

are simply gardens as more than 3,000 palm trees

line these holes.

But golf isn't the only recreation available here.

La Manga's tennis facilities have gained the attention

of many professional organizations

serving as a winter training base

and hosting prestigious tournaments.

This resort represents yet another unexpected

and surprising discovery hidden within the region's harsh,

yet beautiful, landscape.

And for us, it's where we end this journey.

(orchestral music)

(air whooshing)