Original subtitles

(triumphant orchestral music)

(upbeat music)

- Our journey begins along Portugal's

southwest coast on the Troia Peninsula.

We'll fly down to Cape St. Vincent, the epicenter

of the Portuguese empires Age of Discovery.

Crossing the southern Algarve coast to Ponta de Piedade

we find strange, offshore rock formations that are given

rise to ancient myths of perilous seas.

Continuing eastward, takes us to Guadiana River bridge,

one of the many crossings

of Portugal's natural border with Spain.

We end our journey at Mértola, a city that once stood

as a symbol of the cultural fusion that molded this nation.

(slow guitar music)

Extending 25 kilometers out from the Sado River Estuary

lies the Tróia Peninsula.

Not only is it a flourishing haven for marine life

and flora, it is also one of the best preserved sites

of ancient Roman activity in Portugal.

Remains of fish and salt factories, thermal bonds,

and ancient cemeteries are testaments to the once lively

classic influence here.

The distinct aroma of wild lavender

pervades much of the peninsula.

And bottle nosed dolphins frequent the beaches

making the island a tourist destination

of ever growing popularity.

Traveling south along the coast the wild landscape

comes to an abrupt stop here at the Harbor of Sines.

This is the site of one of the biggest maritime industrial

complexes in Portugal.

Today the economy of the town largely depends

on energy industries such as oil refining.

And the port is home to a liquid bulk terminal

which can handle these enormous gas tankers.

Throughout the ages Sines has been an important harbor.

The ancient Romans established

a massive salted fish industry here.

And in later times its strategic location

and plentiful fishing grounds meant wealth

poured into the town.

In 1460 this is where the explorer of Vasco da Gama

was born during the Great Age of Discovery.

He commandeered the ships that sailed for the first time

around the southern tip of Africa and on to India.

Just south of the city is Sines Power Station.

Established on the confluence on the International

Ore and Oil Shipping Routes, the coal plant

was developed in the late 1980s in an attempt

to diversify energy production

after a severe oil crisis shook the European market.

The Vicentine coast natural park covers much

of the Portuguese southwest shoreline.

And it's here we discover pristine beaches

and villages including the resort of Porto Covo.

It also boasts one of the country's

few official nudist areas.

The Vicentine Coast natural park runs

for nearly a hundred miles from Sines to Cape St. Vincent,

and for much of its way,

the shoreline is a dramatic mix

of rugged cliffs and sandy coves.

And as the Atlantic Ocean batters the coast,

old fishing harbors offer safety for today's private yachts.

One of the great advantages

of seeing the shoreline from the air,

is that we can get a good look at it in a unique way.

The different layers of strata,

built up over millions of years

and raised as the Earth's forces shaped our world,

are clear to see in this section of coast.

During storms, the force of the waves

and the stones carried in them,

crash into the base of the cliff,

resulting in what is called undercutting.

So that the sections above collapse.

This erosion process has been going

on for millions of years.

(soft guitar music)

This unspoiled part of Portugal

is gradually becoming better known.

And holiday makers are making their way here

to the new resorts.

Those with money to spend and permission

to build have constructed luxurious

summer villas like this one.

With dramatic views of the sea and coastline.

In calm summer months this may well be an idyllic place.

But in the other seasons,

storms lash the cliffs and high winds

can make life challenging

for the few all year round residents.

Treacherous rocks stand waiting

to wreck any ship in difficulty,

being blown towards the shore.

The Portuguese have always had a respect for the sea.

And perhaps this is why they have produced over the years

so many world-renowned explorers.

It was from these shores that Vasco de Gama set sail

to discover the route around the Cape of Good Hope.

And in 1500, Pedro Alvarez Cabral crossed the Atlantic

and landed in Brazil, firmly establishing the country

as one of Europe's leading powers in the 16th century.

Jutting out into the Atlantic we arrive at Cape St. Vincent.

Which many Portuguese refer to as the end of the road.

Perched on the edge of the dizzying 75 meter high cliffs

is Portugal's most famous lighthouse

and an icon of Europe's maritime history.

The present structure was originally built in 1846.

But lights have shone from this point ever since the 1500's.

Serving as an important landmark for ships traveling

to or from the Mediterranean.

Its history goes back further still because

it was here that 15th century Prince Henry the Navigator,

a key figure in Europe's expansion into Africa set

his headquarters and oversaw much of Portugal's success.

He also established a school close

by that attracted the brightest talents

from all over Europe to learn map making,

ship building, and navigation.

Such vigorous training was to give rise

to a new generation of explorers.

Today the red-capped lighthouse aids the passage

of vessels along one

of the busiest shipping lanes in the world.

Its two 1000 watt lamps can

be seen from as far away as 60 kilometers.

Historically, the cape's strategic importance meant

it was constantly under threat.

So in 15th century,

Henry the Navigator ordered the construction

of Sagres Fortress to protect Portugal's interests.

It also protected ships in the sheltered bay

as they waited out bad weather

before rounding Cape St. Vincent.

However, this didn't slow the attacks.

In 1587, the famed English sea captain,

Sir Francis Drake plundered the fortress

and surrounding buildings.

In the centuries that followed,

the cape has witnessed naval battles

between the great European powers.

But ironically, it was a devastating earthquake

in the 18th century that finally

reduced the fortress to rubble.

It was restored in the mid 1900's

as a reminder of Portugal's military past.

Rounding the cape,

we come to Portugal's southern coast, the Algarve.

It is now one of the most popular resort areas in Europe.

The word Algarve has echoes back

to the time when the Moors invaded

and occupied much of the southern half

of the Iberian Peninsula.

As in Arabic, it roughly means the west.

Today's invaders are rather more peaceful.

And villas of all shapes

and sizes occupy prominent sites along the coast.

Some are very futuristic indeed,

and most have been built for the very rich.

There's no town that typifies the Algarve more than Salema.

With half the population consisting

of weathered hard-working fishermen

and the other half being wide-eyed tourists,

lazing in the sun, this duel economy served

the region well until the global financial crisis

of a few years ago, when Salema's fortunes fell

into a so-called black spot.

But it has since been enjoying a slow but steady recovery.

Further east along the coast we come to Luz.

Known by the locals as Praia da Luz, or beach of light.

It was a phrase first recorded by sunbathers in the 1920's.

And from then on, this one small fishing village

has steadily grown into a major resort.

The old canyon plants were gradually replaced

with wind-surfing and diving schools,

as well as disco techs, shops, and restaurants.

Local farmers sold land to developers to build hotels,

holiday villages, and apartments.

Sadly this popular resort gained international notoriety

in 2007, when a young girl,

Madeleine McCann was taken from her room.

The case was reported around the world.

A short trip along these imposing cliffs takes us

to the undisputed natural wonder of this coastline.

And one of the most beautiful sights in Portugal.

The Ponta da Piedade rock formations.

It's a major attraction for tourists

and locals alike who make their way

to the point by bus or seasonal road trains.

Over thousands of years,

the sea has gradually sculpted these extraordinary caves,

grottos, and sea arches.

One of the best ways of seeing

these rock formations is from the sea.

Boat tours wind through these strange formations,

and depending on the angle they are seen can take

on the appearance of animals and even people.

Over the years they have all acquired names.

Camel, sphinx, kissing couple.

500 years ago, these bizarre shapes gave rise

to tales of mythical creatures such as Adamaster,

the curse of local seafarers.

Described by Luis de Camoes,

the traditional poet lord of Portugal,

the Adamaster is grotesque and enormous.

With heavy jowls, and an unkempt beard,

scowling from shrunken hollow eyes.

Its complexion earthy and pale,

its hair grizzled and matted with clay.

Its mouth, coal black, teeth yellow, with decay.

The ancient mythical creature came

to represent the dangers Portuguese seamen faced

when venturing off to new lands.

They often appeared on maps,

in places where ships hadn't yet sailed,

or had sailed and perished.

Today these rocks can be explored by a young generation

of adventurer, from the safety of a tourist boat.

For the more audacious, kayaks offer a closer view.

There is one resident of these rocks,

which is an altogether less fearsome creature,

a rare wild pigeon.

Which is the ancestor of many

of the varieties found across Europe today.

Across the bay is Lagos, standing at the mouth of the river.

It is one of the most visited cities in the Algarve,

if not Portugal.

It was here in the 15th century

that Henry the Navigator spent most

of his time coordinating expeditions

along the African coast.

But in opening up that continent,

the explorers also opened up the infamous slave trade.

And Lagos became Europe's first market in slavery

and a center for this inhuman business.

From this castle, Prince Henry who

had sponsored the expeditions,

received a fifth of the price of every transaction,

making him a tidy sum of money.

Today the story of Lagos is a very different one.

With a prominent travel website recently listing it

as the number one place to go amongst a group

of up and coming destinations.

In the next bay is the resort town of Armacao de Pera.

Much of the coast has seen an explosion of resorts.

As small villages have been transformed

into modern holiday centers.

Much of the old character has been buried under concrete

as more and more hotels and apartment blocks are built.

One of the main tourist destinations is Albufeira.

Often called the gateway to the Algarve

and the capital of tourism.

The mass of hotels attracts visitors

from across Europe and wider afield.

Of the five million people who come

to the Algarve each year,

a great percentage stay here.

The Algarve boasts 3,000 hours of sunshine a year.

Which is why it has become not

only a popular holiday destination

but a place to buy property too.

It's also a haven for private yachts

and motorboats in the large marinas being built.

Such as here in Quateira.

The area has become popular as a place

to live all year round with great beaches,

excellent sporting facilities,

fine restaurants and night clubs.

Good transport links are also important

and much of the Algarve

is served by Faro International Airport.

The airport handles around six million passengers a year.

Over 30 airlines from across western Europe

now use the airport with holiday makers

from the U.K. leading the field,

flying from England, Scotland, and Northern Ireland.

The airport first opened in 1966.

And since then, has had two major upgrades,

with the new passenger terminal in 1989,

and then enlarged again in 2001.

Faced with growing traffic demands as the Algarve gains

in popularity, the airport runways

and infrastructure will be upgraded yet further

to increase passenger numbers to eight million.

Recently chosen as one of the seven natural wonders

of Portugal, the Rio Formosa Natural Park

is a unique coastal lagoon,

which is constantly changing due

to the continuous movement of winds,

sea currents and tides.

It covers an area of about 18,000 hectares.

And is a paradise for bird watchers,

as it is an important stopping point

in the migration routes between Europe and Africa.

During the summer months,

a railroad offers an eight minute scenic ride

along burrow or beach which faces out towards Tavira Island.

Historically it was a strategic location

at the entrance to the Mediterranean

and was fought over by competing European powers.

But in fact nature became the ultimate winner due

to the catastrophic Lisbon earthquake of 1755.

Which virtually demolished Tavira Island,

with a massive tsunami tearing across the land

and destroying fortresses and settlements in its wake.

15 kilometers long and as little as 150 meters across

in some places, the island is now a popular

alternative destination where naturism is freely practiced.

But Tavira isn't solely for recreation.

These salt evaporation ponds line

almost the entire north side of the island.

Saltwater is fed into shallow artificial beds like

these where the moisture

is extracted through natural evaporation.

The industry is praised by conservationists.

As it creates a beneficial environment

for endangered waterbirds and other sea life.

Monte Gordo is the last resort before the border

with Spain and it's hard to believe looking

at this very modern place,

that it was once a small fishing village.

But perhaps it was inevitable,

as it has one of the finest stretches

of beach on the Algarve coastline.

From Monte Gordo, it is only a few kilometers to the border.

For nearly 50 kilometers,

Portugal and Spain are divided by the Guadiana River.

And at the son end, the countries

are linked by this cable bridge completed in 1991.

It took four years to build.

The greater part of the bridge is situated in Portugal,

with the eastern tower resting

on an artificial island in Spanish territory.

Construction began with the two towers,

but once they were completed the deck sections

were pieced together from either side

and hung on cables as they went.

The deck, which has four lanes of traffic,

is made of pre-stressed concrete

and stands 20 meters above the river,

allowing larger ships to pass underneath.

A great way of seeing the bridge

is from one of the tourist boats which takes passengers

on an all-day cruise along the river Guidiana,

from Vila Real to Santo Antonio.

Which is close to the mouth

at the southeast tip of Portugal.

The Guadiana River is 829 kilometers long,

making it the fourth longest river in the Iberian Peninsula.

578 kilometers are within Spain.

140 in Portugal

and 100 is shared as the border in the south.

It is navigable for about 120 kilometers

up to the Alqueva Dam.

Further up the river,

we finally reach the last stop on this journey,

the ancient border town of Mertola.

Perched on a hill, overlooking the Guadiana River,

it was once a few thousand years ago

an important outpost for Venetians and Carthaginians.

Mertola flourished as a trading port,

transporting goods and precious metals along the river.

The Roman Emperor Augustus,

elevated the status of the city to municipium,

resulting in the construction of the walls,

which were 45 centuries later by the Moors.

During the Reconquista of King Alfonso,

the city played a key role as the seat

of one of Portugal's leading Christian military forces,

the knights of the Order of Santiago.

Mertola retains many remnants of this fusion of cultures,

including the castle which was started by the Muslims

and finished by the Christians in the early 14th century.

After the discovery of copper in the region,

the city thrived right up until 1965,

when the mine was completely depleted.

But after a period of economic stagnation,

a series of archeological surveys,

uncovered historic treasures that transformed

the ailing town to an important site for tourism.

It's a historic place to end this journey.

(triumphant orchestral music)