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(triumphant orchestral music)
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(upbeat music)
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- Our journey
begins along Portugal's
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southwest coast on the Troia Peninsula.
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We'll fly down to Cape
St. Vincent, the epicenter
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of the Portuguese
empires Age of Discovery.
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Crossing the southern Algarve
coast to Ponta de Piedade
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we find strange, offshore
rock formations that are given
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rise to ancient myths of perilous seas.
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Continuing eastward, takes
us to Guadiana River bridge,
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one of the many crossings
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of Portugal's natural border with Spain.
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We end our journey at Mértola,
a city that once stood
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as a symbol of the cultural
fusion that molded this nation.
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(slow guitar music)
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Extending 25 kilometers out
from the Sado River Estuary
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lies the Tróia Peninsula.
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Not only is it a flourishing
haven for marine life
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and flora, it is also one
of the best preserved sites
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of ancient Roman activity in Portugal.
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Remains of fish and salt
factories, thermal bonds,
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and ancient cemeteries are
testaments to the once lively
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classic influence here.
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The distinct aroma of wild lavender
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pervades much of the peninsula.
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And bottle nosed dolphins
frequent the beaches
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making the island a tourist destination
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of ever growing popularity.
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Traveling south along the
coast the wild landscape
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comes to an abrupt stop
here at the Harbor of Sines.
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This is the site of one of the
biggest maritime industrial
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complexes in Portugal.
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Today the economy of
the town largely depends
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on energy industries such as oil refining.
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And the port is home to
a liquid bulk terminal
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which can handle these
enormous gas tankers.
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Throughout the ages Sines
has been an important harbor.
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The ancient Romans established
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a massive salted fish industry here.
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And in later times its strategic location
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and plentiful fishing grounds meant wealth
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poured into the town.
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In 1460 this is where the
explorer of Vasco da Gama
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was born during the
Great Age of Discovery.
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He commandeered the ships
that sailed for the first time
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around the southern tip
of Africa and on to India.
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Just south of the city
is Sines Power Station.
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Established on the confluence
on the International
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Ore and Oil Shipping
Routes, the coal plant
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was developed in the
late 1980s in an attempt
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to diversify energy production
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after a severe oil crisis
shook the European market.
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The Vicentine coast
natural park covers much
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of the Portuguese southwest shoreline.
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And it's here we discover pristine beaches
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and villages including
the resort of Porto Covo.
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It also boasts one of the country's
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few official nudist areas.
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The Vicentine Coast natural park runs
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for nearly a hundred miles
from Sines to Cape St. Vincent,
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and for much of its way,
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the shoreline is a dramatic mix
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of rugged cliffs and sandy coves.
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And as the Atlantic
Ocean batters the coast,
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old fishing harbors offer safety
for today's private yachts.
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One of the great advantages
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of seeing the shoreline from the air,
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is that we can get a good
look at it in a unique way.
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The different layers of strata,
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built up over millions of years
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and raised as the Earth's
forces shaped our world,
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are clear to see in this section of coast.
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During storms, the force of the waves
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and the stones carried in them,
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crash into the base of the cliff,
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resulting in what is called undercutting.
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So that the sections above collapse.
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This erosion process has been going
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on for millions of years.
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(soft guitar music)
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This unspoiled part of Portugal
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is gradually becoming better known.
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And holiday makers are
making their way here
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to the new resorts.
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Those with money to spend and permission
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to build have constructed luxurious
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summer villas like this one.
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With dramatic views of
the sea and coastline.
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In calm summer months this
may well be an idyllic place.
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But in the other seasons,
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storms lash the cliffs and high winds
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can make life challenging
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for the few all year round residents.
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Treacherous rocks stand waiting
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to wreck any ship in difficulty,
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being blown towards the shore.
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The Portuguese have always
had a respect for the sea.
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And perhaps this is why they
have produced over the years
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so many world-renowned explorers.
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It was from these shores
that Vasco de Gama set sail
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to discover the route around
the Cape of Good Hope.
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And in 1500, Pedro Alvarez
Cabral crossed the Atlantic
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and landed in Brazil, firmly
establishing the country
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as one of Europe's leading
powers in the 16th century.
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Jutting out into the Atlantic
we arrive at Cape St. Vincent.
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Which many Portuguese refer
to as the end of the road.
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Perched on the edge of the
dizzying 75 meter high cliffs
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is Portugal's most famous lighthouse
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and an icon of Europe's maritime history.
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The present structure was
originally built in 1846.
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But lights have shone from this
point ever since the 1500's.
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Serving as an important
landmark for ships traveling
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to or from the Mediterranean.
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Its history goes back
further still because
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it was here that 15th century
Prince Henry the Navigator,
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a key figure in Europe's
expansion into Africa set
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his headquarters and oversaw
much of Portugal's success.
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He also established a school close
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by that attracted the brightest talents
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from all over Europe to learn map making,
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ship building, and navigation.
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Such vigorous training was to give rise
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to a new generation of explorers.
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Today the red-capped
lighthouse aids the passage
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of vessels along one
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of the busiest shipping
lanes in the world.
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Its two 1000 watt lamps can
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be seen from as far away as 60 kilometers.
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Historically, the cape's
strategic importance meant
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it was constantly under threat.
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So in 15th century,
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Henry the Navigator
ordered the construction
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of Sagres Fortress to
protect Portugal's interests.
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It also protected ships
in the sheltered bay
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as they waited out bad weather
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before rounding Cape St. Vincent.
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However, this didn't slow the attacks.
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In 1587, the famed English sea captain,
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Sir Francis Drake plundered the fortress
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and surrounding buildings.
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In the centuries that followed,
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the cape has witnessed naval battles
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between the great European powers.
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But ironically, it was
a devastating earthquake
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in the 18th century that finally
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reduced the fortress to rubble.
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It was restored in the mid 1900's
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as a reminder of Portugal's military past.
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Rounding the cape,
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we come to Portugal's
southern coast, the Algarve.
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It is now one of the most
popular resort areas in Europe.
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The word Algarve has echoes back
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to the time when the Moors invaded
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and occupied much of the southern half
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of the Iberian Peninsula.
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As in Arabic, it roughly means the west.
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Today's invaders are rather more peaceful.
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And villas of all shapes
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and sizes occupy prominent
sites along the coast.
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Some are very futuristic indeed,
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and most have been
built for the very rich.
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There's no town that typifies
the Algarve more than Salema.
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With half the population consisting
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of weathered hard-working fishermen
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and the other half being
wide-eyed tourists,
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lazing in the sun, this
duel economy served
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the region well until the
global financial crisis
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of a few years ago, when
Salema's fortunes fell
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into a so-called black spot.
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But it has since been enjoying
a slow but steady recovery.
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Further east along the
coast we come to Luz.
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Known by the locals as Praia
da Luz, or beach of light.
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It was a phrase first recorded
by sunbathers in the 1920's.
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And from then on, this
one small fishing village
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has steadily grown into a major resort.
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The old canyon plants
were gradually replaced
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with wind-surfing and diving schools,
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as well as disco techs,
shops, and restaurants.
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Local farmers sold land to
developers to build hotels,
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holiday villages, and apartments.
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Sadly this popular resort
gained international notoriety
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in 2007, when a young girl,
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Madeleine McCann was taken from her room.
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The case was reported around the world.
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A short trip along these
imposing cliffs takes us
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to the undisputed natural
wonder of this coastline.
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And one of the most
beautiful sights in Portugal.
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The Ponta da Piedade rock formations.
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It's a major attraction for tourists
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and locals alike who make their way
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to the point by bus or
seasonal road trains.
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Over thousands of years,
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the sea has gradually sculpted
these extraordinary caves,
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grottos, and sea arches.
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One of the best ways of seeing
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these rock formations is from the sea.
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Boat tours wind through
these strange formations,
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and depending on the angle
they are seen can take
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on the appearance of
animals and even people.
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Over the years they
have all acquired names.
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Camel, sphinx, kissing couple.
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500 years ago, these
bizarre shapes gave rise
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to tales of mythical
creatures such as Adamaster,
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the curse of local seafarers.
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Described by Luis de Camoes,
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the traditional poet lord of Portugal,
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the Adamaster is grotesque and enormous.
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With heavy jowls, and an unkempt beard,
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scowling from shrunken hollow eyes.
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Its complexion earthy and pale,
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its hair grizzled and matted with clay.
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Its mouth, coal black,
teeth yellow, with decay.
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The ancient mythical creature came
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to represent the dangers
Portuguese seamen faced
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when venturing off to new lands.
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They often appeared on maps,
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in places where ships hadn't yet sailed,
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or had sailed and perished.
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Today these rocks can be
explored by a young generation
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of adventurer, from the
safety of a tourist boat.
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For the more audacious,
kayaks offer a closer view.
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There is one resident of these rocks,
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which is an altogether
less fearsome creature,
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a rare wild pigeon.
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Which is the ancestor of many
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of the varieties found
across Europe today.
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Across the bay is Lagos, standing
at the mouth of the river.
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It is one of the most visited
cities in the Algarve,
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if not Portugal.
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It was here in the 15th century
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that Henry the Navigator spent most
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00:14:58,160 --> 00:15:01,160
of his time coordinating expeditions
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00:15:01,160 --> 00:15:02,723
along the African coast.
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But in opening up that continent,
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00:15:06,600 --> 00:15:10,880
the explorers also opened
up the infamous slave trade.
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00:15:10,880 --> 00:15:14,200
And Lagos became Europe's
first market in slavery
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and a center for this inhuman business.
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From this castle, Prince Henry who
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had sponsored the expeditions,
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received a fifth of the
price of every transaction,
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making him a tidy sum of money.
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Today the story of Lagos
is a very different one.
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With a prominent travel
website recently listing it
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as the number one place
to go amongst a group
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of up and coming destinations.
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In the next bay is the resort
town of Armacao de Pera.
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00:16:05,950 --> 00:16:09,440
Much of the coast has seen
an explosion of resorts.
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As small villages have been transformed
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00:16:11,690 --> 00:16:13,563
into modern holiday centers.
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00:16:17,230 --> 00:16:20,990
Much of the old character has
been buried under concrete
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00:16:20,990 --> 00:16:24,623
as more and more hotels and
apartment blocks are built.
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00:16:30,050 --> 00:16:33,870
One of the main tourist
destinations is Albufeira.
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Often called the gateway to the Algarve
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and the capital of tourism.
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The mass of hotels attracts visitors
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from across Europe and wider afield.
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00:16:49,170 --> 00:16:51,040
Of the five million people who come
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00:16:51,040 --> 00:16:52,870
to the Algarve each year,
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00:16:52,870 --> 00:16:55,453
a great percentage stay here.
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00:17:01,520 --> 00:17:05,610
The Algarve boasts 3,000
hours of sunshine a year.
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00:17:05,610 --> 00:17:07,020
Which is why it has become not
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00:17:07,020 --> 00:17:09,410
only a popular holiday destination
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but a place to buy property too.
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00:17:13,510 --> 00:17:15,920
It's also a haven for private yachts
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00:17:15,920 --> 00:17:19,440
and motorboats in the
large marinas being built.
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00:17:19,440 --> 00:17:21,303
Such as here in Quateira.
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00:17:27,470 --> 00:17:29,820
The area has become popular as a place
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00:17:29,820 --> 00:17:33,250
to live all year round with great beaches,
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excellent sporting facilities,
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00:17:35,260 --> 00:17:37,773
fine restaurants and night clubs.
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Good transport links are also important
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and much of the Algarve
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is served by Faro International Airport.
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00:18:13,630 --> 00:18:17,443
The airport handles around
six million passengers a year.
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00:18:18,750 --> 00:18:21,780
Over 30 airlines from
across western Europe
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now use the airport with holiday makers
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00:18:24,560 --> 00:18:27,100
from the U.K. leading the field,
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00:18:27,100 --> 00:18:30,363
flying from England, Scotland,
and Northern Ireland.
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00:18:33,150 --> 00:18:36,330
The airport first opened in 1966.
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00:18:36,330 --> 00:18:39,510
And since then, has
had two major upgrades,
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00:18:39,510 --> 00:18:42,820
with the new passenger terminal in 1989,
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00:18:42,820 --> 00:18:45,663
and then enlarged again in 2001.
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00:18:49,600 --> 00:18:52,560
Faced with growing traffic
demands as the Algarve gains
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00:18:52,560 --> 00:18:55,270
in popularity, the airport runways
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00:18:55,270 --> 00:18:58,750
and infrastructure will
be upgraded yet further
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00:18:58,750 --> 00:19:01,813
to increase passenger
numbers to eight million.
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00:19:05,500 --> 00:19:08,290
Recently chosen as one of
the seven natural wonders
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00:19:08,290 --> 00:19:11,920
of Portugal, the Rio Formosa Natural Park
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00:19:11,920 --> 00:19:14,090
is a unique coastal lagoon,
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00:19:14,090 --> 00:19:16,360
which is constantly changing due
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00:19:16,360 --> 00:19:18,570
to the continuous movement of winds,
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00:19:18,570 --> 00:19:20,423
sea currents and tides.
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00:19:21,870 --> 00:19:25,370
It covers an area of
about 18,000 hectares.
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00:19:25,370 --> 00:19:28,280
And is a paradise for bird watchers,
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00:19:28,280 --> 00:19:30,120
as it is an important stopping point
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00:19:30,120 --> 00:19:33,553
in the migration routes
between Europe and Africa.
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00:19:37,490 --> 00:19:38,780
During the summer months,
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00:19:38,780 --> 00:19:42,080
a railroad offers an
eight minute scenic ride
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00:19:42,080 --> 00:19:46,743
along burrow or beach which
faces out towards Tavira Island.
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00:19:47,830 --> 00:19:50,720
Historically it was a strategic location
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00:19:50,720 --> 00:19:52,890
at the entrance to the Mediterranean
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00:19:52,890 --> 00:19:56,043
and was fought over by
competing European powers.
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00:19:58,000 --> 00:20:01,390
But in fact nature became
the ultimate winner due
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00:20:01,390 --> 00:20:05,920
to the catastrophic
Lisbon earthquake of 1755.
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00:20:05,920 --> 00:20:09,060
Which virtually demolished Tavira Island,
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00:20:09,060 --> 00:20:12,740
with a massive tsunami
tearing across the land
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00:20:12,740 --> 00:20:16,303
and destroying fortresses
and settlements in its wake.
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00:20:20,830 --> 00:20:24,640
15 kilometers long and as
little as 150 meters across
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00:20:24,640 --> 00:20:28,220
in some places, the
island is now a popular
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00:20:28,220 --> 00:20:33,133
alternative destination where
naturism is freely practiced.
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00:20:37,910 --> 00:20:41,760
But Tavira isn't solely for recreation.
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00:20:41,760 --> 00:20:44,320
These salt evaporation ponds line
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00:20:44,320 --> 00:20:47,063
almost the entire north
side of the island.
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00:20:48,370 --> 00:20:51,570
Saltwater is fed into
shallow artificial beds like
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00:20:51,570 --> 00:20:53,380
these where the moisture
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00:20:53,380 --> 00:20:56,133
is extracted through natural evaporation.
317
00:21:00,570 --> 00:21:03,900
The industry is praised
by conservationists.
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00:21:03,900 --> 00:21:06,270
As it creates a beneficial environment
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00:21:06,270 --> 00:21:09,423
for endangered waterbirds
and other sea life.
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00:21:15,840 --> 00:21:19,220
Monte Gordo is the last
resort before the border
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00:21:19,220 --> 00:21:22,180
with Spain and it's
hard to believe looking
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00:21:22,180 --> 00:21:24,060
at this very modern place,
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00:21:24,060 --> 00:21:26,253
that it was once a small fishing village.
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00:21:27,620 --> 00:21:29,830
But perhaps it was inevitable,
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00:21:29,830 --> 00:21:31,780
as it has one of the finest stretches
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00:21:31,780 --> 00:21:34,293
of beach on the Algarve coastline.
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00:21:39,550 --> 00:21:43,833
From Monte Gordo, it is only a
few kilometers to the border.
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00:21:48,670 --> 00:21:50,220
For nearly 50 kilometers,
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00:21:50,220 --> 00:21:54,920
Portugal and Spain are
divided by the Guadiana River.
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00:21:54,920 --> 00:21:56,810
And at the son end, the countries
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00:21:56,810 --> 00:22:01,810
are linked by this cable
bridge completed in 1991.
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00:22:02,090 --> 00:22:04,373
It took four years to build.
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00:22:10,000 --> 00:22:13,560
The greater part of the bridge
is situated in Portugal,
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00:22:13,560 --> 00:22:15,750
with the eastern tower resting
335
00:22:15,750 --> 00:22:18,883
on an artificial island
in Spanish territory.
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00:22:24,260 --> 00:22:27,010
Construction began with the two towers,
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00:22:27,010 --> 00:22:30,070
but once they were
completed the deck sections
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00:22:30,070 --> 00:22:32,870
were pieced together from either side
339
00:22:32,870 --> 00:22:34,913
and hung on cables as they went.
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00:22:42,950 --> 00:22:46,010
The deck, which has four lanes of traffic,
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00:22:46,010 --> 00:22:48,410
is made of pre-stressed concrete
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00:22:48,410 --> 00:22:50,840
and stands 20 meters above the river,
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00:22:50,840 --> 00:22:53,923
allowing larger ships to pass underneath.
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00:22:58,030 --> 00:22:59,820
A great way of seeing the bridge
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00:22:59,820 --> 00:23:02,780
is from one of the tourist
boats which takes passengers
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00:23:02,780 --> 00:23:06,200
on an all-day cruise
along the river Guidiana,
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00:23:06,200 --> 00:23:09,680
from Vila Real to Santo Antonio.
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00:23:09,680 --> 00:23:11,560
Which is close to the mouth
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00:23:11,560 --> 00:23:13,683
at the southeast tip of Portugal.
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00:23:16,140 --> 00:23:20,590
The Guadiana River is 829 kilometers long,
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00:23:20,590 --> 00:23:24,820
making it the fourth longest
river in the Iberian Peninsula.
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00:23:24,820 --> 00:23:28,550
578 kilometers are within Spain.
353
00:23:28,550 --> 00:23:30,960
140 in Portugal
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00:23:30,960 --> 00:23:34,860
and 100 is shared as
the border in the south.
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00:23:34,860 --> 00:23:38,240
It is navigable for about 120 kilometers
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00:23:38,240 --> 00:23:40,053
up to the Alqueva Dam.
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00:23:43,340 --> 00:23:44,550
Further up the river,
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00:23:44,550 --> 00:23:47,350
we finally reach the last
stop on this journey,
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00:23:47,350 --> 00:23:50,033
the ancient border town of Mertola.
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00:23:53,050 --> 00:23:56,210
Perched on a hill, overlooking
the Guadiana River,
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00:23:56,210 --> 00:23:58,700
it was once a few thousand years ago
362
00:23:58,700 --> 00:24:02,453
an important outpost for
Venetians and Carthaginians.
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00:24:05,080 --> 00:24:08,230
Mertola flourished as a trading port,
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00:24:08,230 --> 00:24:11,783
transporting goods and precious
metals along the river.
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00:24:13,160 --> 00:24:15,020
The Roman Emperor Augustus,
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00:24:15,020 --> 00:24:18,930
elevated the status of
the city to municipium,
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00:24:18,930 --> 00:24:21,930
resulting in the
construction of the walls,
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00:24:21,930 --> 00:24:24,803
which were 45 centuries
later by the Moors.
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00:24:31,569 --> 00:24:34,420
During the Reconquista of King Alfonso,
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00:24:34,420 --> 00:24:37,060
the city played a key role as the seat
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00:24:37,060 --> 00:24:40,770
of one of Portugal's leading
Christian military forces,
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00:24:40,770 --> 00:24:43,403
the knights of the Order of Santiago.
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00:24:45,180 --> 00:24:49,890
Mertola retains many remnants
of this fusion of cultures,
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00:24:49,890 --> 00:24:53,470
including the castle which
was started by the Muslims
375
00:24:53,470 --> 00:24:56,953
and finished by the Christians
in the early 14th century.
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00:25:00,800 --> 00:25:03,470
After the discovery of
copper in the region,
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00:25:03,470 --> 00:25:07,220
the city thrived right up until 1965,
378
00:25:07,220 --> 00:25:09,533
when the mine was completely depleted.
379
00:25:13,570 --> 00:25:16,510
But after a period of economic stagnation,
380
00:25:16,510 --> 00:25:18,980
a series of archeological surveys,
381
00:25:18,980 --> 00:25:21,960
uncovered historic
treasures that transformed
382
00:25:21,960 --> 00:25:25,993
the ailing town to an
important site for tourism.
383
00:25:27,480 --> 00:25:30,853
It's a historic place to end this journey.
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00:25:36,975 --> 00:25:40,808
(triumphant orchestral music)
30900
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