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(wind whooshing)
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(majestic music)
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(majestic soaring music)
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(gentle music)
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- Our journey begins
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on the border of western Montana
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in the Bitterroot Mountain Range,
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an instant introduction
to the rugged landscape
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that lies ahead.
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We enter the Kootenai National Forest
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for our first look at
some of the country's most
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pristine bodies of water,
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as well as the engineering masterpiece
14
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that is the Libby Dam.
15
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From the northern most
point of our journey
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in the Whitefish Mountains
17
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we begin tracking the Flathead
River as it courses south.
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Its path takes us to the
Gateway of Glacier National Park
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in Kalispell, Montana.
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Our journey concludes with an exploration
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of the stunning scenery
around Flathead Lake
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as well as the oldest
settlement along its banks,
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the town of Polson.
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(relaxed music)
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The vast Bitterroot Mountain Range,
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named after the state flower of Montana,
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is a subrange of the Rockys,
28
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and span nearly 62,000 square kilometers.
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That's almost the size of
the entire state of Florida.
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At the Bitteroot northwest section
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are the Coeur d'Alene
Mountains and it's here
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we catch a glimpse of
Cherry Peak in the distance.
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Rugged and glacier-swept, the
range has earned the nickname,
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the Montana Alps.
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Coursing through the range,
is the Clark Fork River.
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Renowned for its natural beauty,
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it's also been a major
source of electricity
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since the construction of the Noxon Dam.
39
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When the plan was announced in the 1950s
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the local mayor heralded the decision as,
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"the biggest thing that ever
happened in the county."
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Completed in 1959, the hydroelectric plant
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has a current operating capacity
of 466 megawatts of power.
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These are the remote peaks
of the Cabinet Mountains.
45
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Here, snow falls all year round.
46
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(gentle piano music)
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This wet climate provides
the mountains with vegetation
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uncharacteristic of western Montana,
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many of its plant species
are actually natives
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of the Pacific Coast.
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Much of the Cabinet Mountain range
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is part of the Kootenai National Forest,
53
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with laws that protect its many species,
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giving the region a reputation
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as one of the wildest in the U.S.
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Nestled among the high peaks
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is a true gem of western
Montana, Bull Lake.
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With its pristine water
and breath-taking scenery,
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it has become a popular
site for summer homes
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and recreational activity.
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Most of the land is privately
owned, including Angel Island,
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but the Kootenai Forest Service
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has been integral in preserving
the lake's natural beauty.
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This area offers a variety of landscape
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from the high, rocky peaks
to the groves of huge cedars
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and alpine meadows.
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Hidden within the 38,000 hectares
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are over 80 small blue
lakes that feed streams
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which tumble into the moose country below.
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00:05:06,658 --> 00:05:09,325
(relaxed music)
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Beyond the eastern slopes of
the Cabinet Mountain range
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lies the Libby district.
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The population of the area soared
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after the discovery of
gold deposits in the 1860s.
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One of the many mining
sites was Big Cherry Creek,
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which runs 14 miles to the
confluence of the Kootenai River.
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And as we prepare for a landing
at the city's small airport,
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we pass Libby Creek,
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which was once another
lucrative source for gold.
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Flying around this vast landscape,
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means filling up with
fuel at every opportunity
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since airfields are more remote.
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With our tank full, we
climb back into the skies
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to grab a bird's eye view of Libby
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Lying in the heart of the Kootenai Valley,
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the city, which is barely
five square kilometers,
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has been supported by the
logging and mining industries,
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although tourists are
increasingly visiting
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in order to enjoy the mountains and river.
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(relaxed music)
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The Kootenai courses through
sparsely populated regions
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of the Pacific Northwest,
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with a dramatic two
kilometer drop in elevation
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from its origin in British Columbia.
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It's one of few North American rivers
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that starts in one country,
crosses into another,
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and returns to the first.
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The river forms many rapids,
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and this stretch is popular
for Whitewater rafting.
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Approaching an area known as the Big Bend
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the Kootenai surges around the south base
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of the Purcell Mountains,
just below the Libby Dam.
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Spanning almost a kilometer
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and designed to withstand an
earthquake registering 6.5
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on the Richter scale,
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it's one of the sturdiest
such structures ever built.
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Completed in 1972, the barrier is made up
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of 47 massive sections,
designed as independent units.
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If one collapsed, the other
46 would remain standing.
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The dam forms a 140
kilometer long reservoir
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known as Lake Koocanusa,
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which stretches deep
into neighboring Canada.
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It was a joint project
between the two countries,
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with the aim of combating
the costly flooding
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that occurred in spring and summer,
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as well as providing electricity.
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At full capacity, the Libby Dam
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passes 4,500 cubic meters
of water per second.
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Its five turbines generate
600 megawatts of power,
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allowing it to service eight states.
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Although the engineering of the lake
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had a very practical purpose,
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the outcome was the creation
of this majestic water scene,
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set against the backdrop of
the Kootenai National Forest.
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(gentle music)
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It is home to a variety of sporting fish
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and offers year-round angling.
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Outdoor enthusiasts are also
able to enjoy several beaches,
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hiking trails and camping
on the waterfront.
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One popular site to set up camp
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is even in the center of
the lake, Yarnell Island.
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Although the lake's name,
Koocanusa, sounds very tribal,
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it was actually the
result of a competition
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during its construction.
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The winning entry was the combination
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of Kootenai, Canada, and USA.
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Koocanusa.
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A lesser known range in northwest Montana,
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the Salish Mountains,
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are filled mostly with
tree-covered summits.
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But we're lucky to find one
of its open grassy valleys.
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The curvy Stillwater River
143
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snakes through Flathead National Forest.
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The Salish Mountains
feature an extensive network
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of logging roads to
support the timber industry
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as well as many trails that climb
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from the valley floor to the peaks
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that range from 1,000
to 2,000 meters high.
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In the 1960s the rapid
pace of industrialization
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across the nation became a
major conservation issue.
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The U.S. government's
response was to establish
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the National Wilderness
Preservation System of 1964,
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to designate regions as
Wildlife Management Areas.
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Both the Upper and Lower Stillwater Lakes
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fall under this protection,
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guarding vital habitats
for a variety of animals,
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from bald eagles to mountain lions.
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The protected area lies within
Stillwater State Forest,
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Montana's oldest woodland.
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Covering over 38,000 hectares,
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it's also the state's largest.
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It's a favorite with
hikers all year round,
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who enjoy climbs up to Antice Knob
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for spectacular views of places
such as Swift Creek River.
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(relaxed music)
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Crossing the valley we come
to the northern most point
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on our journey at the Whitefish Range.
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Since the peaks aren't
particularly high here,
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they provide the right
environment for red cedars
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and Douglas firs to grow in abundance.
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The same can't be said
for their neighbors,
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the massive, snow-capped
mountains of Glacier National Park
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which we see in the distance.
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Having reached the
midpoint of our journey,
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we begin heading south
along the Flathead River,
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which will guide us throughout
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the remainder of our expedition.
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(gentle music)
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This valley, known as Bad Rock Canyon,
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acts as a border between
Glacier National Park
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and the Apgar Mountains.
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(water rushing)
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The river is commonly
called the North Fork,
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which refers to the main
stem of the Flathead
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that is joined two
other large tributaries.
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(water rushing)
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Deemed the wildest river in
the continental United States
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by the New York Times, the
Flathead has been designated
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as a National Wild and Scenic River.
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Unlike other major river
valleys in Montana,
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Flathead has never been
dammed for hydroelectric power
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or mined for natural resources,
193
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despite several recent
efforts to drill for coal.
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Dipping into Glacier National Park
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we follow a small tributary
of the Flathead River,
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Camas Creek.
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Cutting through a series of rolling hills,
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it's joined by a road
which offers park visitors
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a rustic and scenic entry point.
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Surrounded by picturesque meadows
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of tall grasses and Douglas firs,
202
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Camas Creek is a popular
trail for horseback riding.
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We cross back over the mountain
range, at its southern tip,
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and discover the charming
lakeside city of Whitefish.
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A major recreation center
of western Montana,
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the city has become both
a retirement community
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and tourist draw to one of the state's
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most popular ski resorts,
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with an economy supported by
the logging industry as well.
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Despite a modest population around 6,000,
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Whitefish, as of 2010, was
Montana's 14th biggest city.
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It first thrived when the
Great Northern Railway
213
00:13:52,620 --> 00:13:55,753
laid down tracks through the city in 1904.
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20 years later,
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the company build this
Tudor revival style depot.
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00:14:02,520 --> 00:14:06,140
Thanks to preservation by the
Stumptown Historical Society,
217
00:14:06,140 --> 00:14:10,200
the depot is on the National
Register of Historic Places.
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00:14:10,200 --> 00:14:12,640
Today the station is the busiest hub
219
00:14:12,640 --> 00:14:15,420
for Amtrak's Empire Builder,
220
00:14:15,420 --> 00:14:17,820
a passenger train route from Chicago
221
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to the Pacific Northwest.
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Whether traveling to Whitefish
by train, plane or car,
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00:14:27,330 --> 00:14:29,860
visitors and residents
most likely find themselves
224
00:14:29,860 --> 00:14:31,633
spending time by the water.
225
00:14:33,860 --> 00:14:35,370
Fed by several tributaries
226
00:14:35,370 --> 00:14:37,930
that flow through the Flathead Watershed,
227
00:14:37,930 --> 00:14:40,930
this 11-kilometer long glacial lake
228
00:14:40,930 --> 00:14:43,973
is surrounded by mountain landscape.
229
00:14:43,973 --> 00:14:46,640
(gentle music)
230
00:14:48,090 --> 00:14:51,420
Dotted around its banks
are several state parks,
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00:14:51,420 --> 00:14:54,030
lakeside resorts, as well as pristine
232
00:14:54,030 --> 00:14:56,143
and sandy public beaches.
233
00:15:04,740 --> 00:15:06,680
While the city's biggest tourist draw
234
00:15:06,680 --> 00:15:09,240
may be the Big Mountain ski resort,
235
00:15:09,240 --> 00:15:12,860
The Lodge here presents a
leisurely, graceful stay
236
00:15:12,860 --> 00:15:15,603
with the amenities of
a full-service resort.
237
00:15:17,370 --> 00:15:19,720
Tucked between Glacier National Park
238
00:15:19,720 --> 00:15:22,010
and the Kootenai National Forest,
239
00:15:22,010 --> 00:15:25,853
Whitefish Lake is one
of Montana's true gems.
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(gentle upbeat music)
241
00:15:31,260 --> 00:15:33,280
We descend for our second landing
242
00:15:33,280 --> 00:15:36,290
on this journey at Glacier
Park International Airport,
243
00:15:36,290 --> 00:15:37,913
in the city of Kalispell.
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00:15:38,830 --> 00:15:41,050
Although it does service
commercial airlines,
245
00:15:41,050 --> 00:15:43,750
it's a popular landing
spot for private jets
246
00:15:43,750 --> 00:15:47,430
and other aircraft, due to
its proximity to the park
247
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and the nearby resort towns.
248
00:16:01,090 --> 00:16:04,840
Back in the air, we return
to the Flathead flood plain,
249
00:16:04,840 --> 00:16:07,350
jumping several kilometers downstream
250
00:16:07,350 --> 00:16:09,493
from its more turbulent beginnings.
251
00:16:13,250 --> 00:16:15,540
Here it spreads out over this flatter,
252
00:16:15,540 --> 00:16:19,800
glacially shaped valley on
its way past our next stop,
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00:16:19,800 --> 00:16:20,733
Kalispell.
254
00:16:22,170 --> 00:16:24,420
It's the largest city on our journey
255
00:16:24,420 --> 00:16:27,133
as well as the largest
city in northwest Montana.
256
00:16:28,800 --> 00:16:31,860
Known as the gateway to
Glacier National Park,
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Kalispell is a short distance
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from several resorts and parks.
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00:16:36,720 --> 00:16:40,160
Its location led to the city's
growth as the commercial,
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government and medical
hub of Flathead Valley,
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symbolized by this historic
courthouse, erected in 1902.
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00:16:50,780 --> 00:16:53,000
At an altitude of 900 meters,
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00:16:53,000 --> 00:16:55,970
the city was named after
its high elevation.
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Kalispell is a Salish Indian word meaning,
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flat land above the lake.
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00:17:05,990 --> 00:17:08,550
One of Kalispell's most
endearing treasures
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is the Victorian home of the
city founder, Charles Conrad.
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Built in 1895, the home's
exterior is accented with arches,
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00:17:18,840 --> 00:17:21,843
long gables, massive stone chimneys.
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00:17:24,960 --> 00:17:27,750
Today the home is operated
by the city of Kalispell
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as a museum and event center,
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00:17:30,380 --> 00:17:34,040
showcasing almost all of the
original family furnishings
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00:17:34,040 --> 00:17:37,841
throughout its 26 rooms over three floors.
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00:17:37,841 --> 00:17:41,174
(gentle majestic music)
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00:17:42,490 --> 00:17:46,830
Conrad's grand residence rests
on three landscaped acres,
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00:17:46,830 --> 00:17:48,580
representing the vision he had
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00:17:48,580 --> 00:17:52,500
for the entire city of Kalispell
when he set foot here 1891.
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00:17:59,200 --> 00:18:01,470
We join the Flathead River once more,
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00:18:01,470 --> 00:18:04,200
as it flows past Kalispell.
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00:18:04,200 --> 00:18:07,800
Here, we see a considerable
area of low-lying plains
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00:18:07,800 --> 00:18:08,700
have been flooded.
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00:18:11,790 --> 00:18:14,110
The level of flooding varies annually
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00:18:14,110 --> 00:18:16,630
depending on the quantity
of snow in the winter
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00:18:16,630 --> 00:18:19,660
and the subsequent rainfall in the spring.
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00:18:19,660 --> 00:18:22,300
The river flow is finally slowed
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00:18:22,300 --> 00:18:24,633
as it drains into Flathead Lake.
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00:18:28,330 --> 00:18:31,800
Several rivers and streams
flow into this body of water,
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00:18:31,800 --> 00:18:35,550
including Swan River in
the northeast corner,
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00:18:35,550 --> 00:18:38,003
where we find the quaint town of Bigfork.
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00:18:39,180 --> 00:18:41,450
No longer a well-kept secret,
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00:18:41,450 --> 00:18:43,720
publications have deemed this place
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00:18:43,720 --> 00:18:46,630
one of the 50 great towns of the west
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00:18:46,630 --> 00:18:49,373
and one of the 100 best small art towns.
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00:18:52,270 --> 00:18:55,630
From its early days of a
farming and timber economy,
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00:18:55,630 --> 00:19:00,240
Bigfork now thrives as a
community known for art, fine food
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00:19:00,240 --> 00:19:02,670
and theater, as well as growing
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00:19:02,670 --> 00:19:04,933
its famous Flathead cherries.
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00:19:06,050 --> 00:19:08,270
Both the waterfront of Swan River
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00:19:08,270 --> 00:19:11,820
and the 180 mile
shoreline of Flathead Lake
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00:19:11,820 --> 00:19:14,703
became prime real estate
for luxury living.
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00:19:18,738 --> 00:19:21,110
Bigfork is just one of several areas
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00:19:21,110 --> 00:19:24,330
lined with ornate cabins
built into the embankment
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00:19:24,330 --> 00:19:26,380
of the largest fresh water lake
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west of the Mississippi River.
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00:19:29,140 --> 00:19:33,040
As we head south, we soar close
to the lake's choppy waters
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00:19:33,040 --> 00:19:36,250
en route to the nearby cove of Woods Bay,
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00:19:36,250 --> 00:19:38,280
which is set on the northern tip
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00:19:38,280 --> 00:19:39,703
of Flathead National Forest.
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00:19:43,623 --> 00:19:46,290
(relaxed music)
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We linger for a while longer,
taking in the beautiful sunset
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and shimmering reflections.
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00:19:56,140 --> 00:19:58,807
(gentle music)
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00:20:01,490 --> 00:20:05,307
The famous American author,
John Steinbeck, once stated,
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00:20:05,307 --> 00:20:07,787
"I am in love with Montana.
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00:20:07,787 --> 00:20:12,787
"For other states I have
admiration, respect, recognition,
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00:20:13,107 --> 00:20:15,117
"even some affection.
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00:20:15,117 --> 00:20:17,947
"But with Montana it is love."
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00:20:22,580 --> 00:20:25,110
Steinbeck may well been
sailing upon the waters
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00:20:25,110 --> 00:20:29,613
of Flathead Lake when experienced
these heartfelt emotions.
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00:20:35,370 --> 00:20:36,700
We complete our tour here
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exploring several of the primitive islands
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in the southwest corner,
known as Big Arm Bay.
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00:20:43,140 --> 00:20:46,433
Our first stop is Wild
Horse Island State Park.
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(relaxed music)
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Here the Salish Indians
would pasture their steeds
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00:20:53,880 --> 00:20:56,720
to keep warring tribes from stealing them.
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00:20:56,720 --> 00:20:58,390
A handful of wild horses
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00:20:58,390 --> 00:21:01,330
still roam along the
rugged prairie grasslands
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00:21:01,330 --> 00:21:05,283
and gallop into the old-growth
Ponderosa pine forest.
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00:21:08,220 --> 00:21:10,000
Despite the name of the island,
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00:21:10,000 --> 00:21:13,650
100 other species of wildlife
such as bighorn sheep,
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00:21:13,650 --> 00:21:17,233
mule deer and bald eagles
are native to the park.
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00:21:18,240 --> 00:21:21,600
Rare and endangered plant
species have also been found
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00:21:21,600 --> 00:21:23,180
in the Palouse prairie,
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00:21:23,180 --> 00:21:26,033
the last remnant of
Montana's native grassland.
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00:21:27,980 --> 00:21:29,770
Owing to the strong winds here,
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sailboats are a very common site.
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00:21:32,580 --> 00:21:34,400
Though the island is clearly a favorite
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00:21:34,400 --> 00:21:36,800
among hikers, boaters, and swimmers,
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00:21:36,800 --> 00:21:39,133
camping and biking is prohibited.
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00:21:41,420 --> 00:21:43,570
But private homes have been present here
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00:21:43,570 --> 00:21:45,713
since the turn of the 20th century.
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The 900-hectare island is
mostly owned by the state
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and it's been operated
as a park since 1978.
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(upbeat music)
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About a dozen smaller
islands exist on the lake,
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most of which are inhabited by wildlife.
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00:22:17,050 --> 00:22:20,320
Some real estate here
can be quite expensive
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00:22:20,320 --> 00:22:22,600
with one home reportedly listing
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00:22:22,600 --> 00:22:26,210
for 78 million American dollars.
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00:22:26,210 --> 00:22:29,730
Admittedly, that's with the
entire eight-acre island
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thrown into the deal.
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Located on the lake's southern shore
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by Flathead River is Polson.
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00:22:40,970 --> 00:22:44,040
Before roads had been properly
established in the area,
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00:22:44,040 --> 00:22:47,973
the city was a transportation
hub for steam and sail boats.
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Today, Polson is a popular
summer resort destination
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00:22:52,840 --> 00:22:55,050
and is at the heart of some of Montana's
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00:22:55,050 --> 00:22:56,973
most fertile farming areas,
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famous again for cherry orchards.
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00:23:04,130 --> 00:23:06,250
Now at the last leg of our journey,
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the lake empties into the lower portion
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of the Flathead River, which
continues to drain downstream.
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It sneaks around the steep hillsides
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of the Flathead Indian Reservation
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for another 116 kilometers,
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00:23:21,010 --> 00:23:23,977
eventually joining with
the Clark Fork River.
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(water burbling)
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Whereas the upper
section north of the lake
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has never been dammed,
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this lower section had
a very different fate.
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16 meters taller than the Niagara Falls,
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this is the Kerr Dam
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00:23:44,410 --> 00:23:49,080
The concrete gravity-arch
structure was completed in 1938
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00:23:49,080 --> 00:23:52,633
and adds three meters to
the depth of Flathead Lake.
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00:23:54,730 --> 00:23:56,230
It's the largest electrical
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00:23:56,230 --> 00:23:59,013
generating power plant in Montana.
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00:24:00,600 --> 00:24:02,520
A walkway along the rim
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allows for dizzying views of the falls,
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00:24:05,300 --> 00:24:07,833
as well as the river
running into the canyon.
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00:24:09,130 --> 00:24:11,690
Located within reservation boundaries,
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00:24:11,690 --> 00:24:15,490
Kerr Dam is jointly operated
by a private power company
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00:24:15,490 --> 00:24:17,356
and the Flathead tribe.
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00:24:17,356 --> 00:24:21,510
(water rushing)
(gentle upbeat music)
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00:24:21,510 --> 00:24:23,740
And our last stop is in the company
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00:24:23,740 --> 00:24:25,673
of a few daring travelers.
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00:24:28,180 --> 00:24:30,710
While Flathead Lake might
be an excellent spot
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00:24:30,710 --> 00:24:34,670
for speed and sail boats,
downstream provides excellent
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00:24:34,670 --> 00:24:37,335
whitewater rafting adventures.
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00:24:37,335 --> 00:24:40,002
(playful music)
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The lower Flathead River is
known for having the biggest,
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00:24:45,490 --> 00:24:48,680
most consistent whitewater in the state.
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00:24:48,680 --> 00:24:53,070
Rafters can choose from floating
peacefully in calm waters
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00:24:53,070 --> 00:24:54,920
to navigating the challenging,
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00:24:54,920 --> 00:24:58,350
16-kilometers of Class IV whitewater
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00:24:58,350 --> 00:25:00,663
known as Wild Buffalo Rapids.
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00:25:04,360 --> 00:25:07,120
As we bid farewell to
our friends on the river,
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00:25:07,120 --> 00:25:10,680
we also end our journey
through northwest Montana.
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00:25:10,680 --> 00:25:14,260
Here the state motto is oro y plata,
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00:25:14,260 --> 00:25:16,733
Spanish for Gold and
Silver, a nod to her history
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00:25:16,733 --> 00:25:21,440
a nod to a history of yielding
fortunes in precious metals.
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00:25:21,440 --> 00:25:23,963
However, the stunning panoramas,
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00:25:23,963 --> 00:25:27,880
from the mountains to the
valleys to the whitewater rapids,
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00:25:27,880 --> 00:25:30,760
are perhaps even more valuable,
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00:25:30,760 --> 00:25:33,693
and a perfect place to end our journey.
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00:25:37,061 --> 00:25:39,811
(majestic music)
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00:26:09,540 --> 00:26:12,796
(logo thudding)
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00:26:12,796 --> 00:26:15,546
(logo whooshing)
32355
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