Original subtitles

(wind whooshing)

(majestic music)

(majestic soaring music)

(gentle music)

- Our journey begins

on the border of western Montana

in the Bitterroot Mountain Range,

an instant introduction to the rugged landscape

that lies ahead.

We enter the Kootenai National Forest

for our first look at some of the country's most

pristine bodies of water,

as well as the engineering masterpiece

that is the Libby Dam.

From the northern most point of our journey

in the Whitefish Mountains

we begin tracking the Flathead River as it courses south.

Its path takes us to the Gateway of Glacier National Park

in Kalispell, Montana.

Our journey concludes with an exploration

of the stunning scenery around Flathead Lake

as well as the oldest settlement along its banks,

the town of Polson.

(relaxed music)

The vast Bitterroot Mountain Range,

named after the state flower of Montana,

is a subrange of the Rockys,

and span nearly 62,000 square kilometers.

That's almost the size of the entire state of Florida.

At the Bitteroot northwest section

are the Coeur d'Alene Mountains and it's here

we catch a glimpse of Cherry Peak in the distance.

Rugged and glacier-swept, the range has earned the nickname,

the Montana Alps.

Coursing through the range, is the Clark Fork River.

Renowned for its natural beauty,

it's also been a major source of electricity

since the construction of the Noxon Dam.

When the plan was announced in the 1950s

the local mayor heralded the decision as,

"the biggest thing that ever happened in the county."

Completed in 1959, the hydroelectric plant

has a current operating capacity of 466 megawatts of power.

These are the remote peaks of the Cabinet Mountains.

Here, snow falls all year round.

(gentle piano music)

This wet climate provides the mountains with vegetation

uncharacteristic of western Montana,

many of its plant species are actually natives

of the Pacific Coast.

Much of the Cabinet Mountain range

is part of the Kootenai National Forest,

with laws that protect its many species,

giving the region a reputation

as one of the wildest in the U.S.

Nestled among the high peaks

is a true gem of western Montana, Bull Lake.

With its pristine water and breath-taking scenery,

it has become a popular site for summer homes

and recreational activity.

Most of the land is privately owned, including Angel Island,

but the Kootenai Forest Service

has been integral in preserving the lake's natural beauty.

This area offers a variety of landscape

from the high, rocky peaks to the groves of huge cedars

and alpine meadows.

Hidden within the 38,000 hectares

are over 80 small blue lakes that feed streams

which tumble into the moose country below.

(relaxed music)

Beyond the eastern slopes of the Cabinet Mountain range

lies the Libby district.

The population of the area soared

after the discovery of gold deposits in the 1860s.

One of the many mining sites was Big Cherry Creek,

which runs 14 miles to the confluence of the Kootenai River.

And as we prepare for a landing at the city's small airport,

we pass Libby Creek,

which was once another lucrative source for gold.

Flying around this vast landscape,

means filling up with fuel at every opportunity

since airfields are more remote.

With our tank full, we climb back into the skies

to grab a bird's eye view of Libby

Lying in the heart of the Kootenai Valley,

the city, which is barely five square kilometers,

has been supported by the logging and mining industries,

although tourists are increasingly visiting

in order to enjoy the mountains and river.

(relaxed music)

The Kootenai courses through sparsely populated regions

of the Pacific Northwest,

with a dramatic two kilometer drop in elevation

from its origin in British Columbia.

It's one of few North American rivers

that starts in one country, crosses into another,

and returns to the first.

The river forms many rapids,

and this stretch is popular for Whitewater rafting.

Approaching an area known as the Big Bend

the Kootenai surges around the south base

of the Purcell Mountains, just below the Libby Dam.

Spanning almost a kilometer

and designed to withstand an earthquake registering 6.5

on the Richter scale,

it's one of the sturdiest such structures ever built.

Completed in 1972, the barrier is made up

of 47 massive sections, designed as independent units.

If one collapsed, the other 46 would remain standing.

The dam forms a 140 kilometer long reservoir

known as Lake Koocanusa,

which stretches deep into neighboring Canada.

It was a joint project between the two countries,

with the aim of combating the costly flooding

that occurred in spring and summer,

as well as providing electricity.

At full capacity, the Libby Dam

passes 4,500 cubic meters of water per second.

Its five turbines generate 600 megawatts of power,

allowing it to service eight states.

Although the engineering of the lake

had a very practical purpose,

the outcome was the creation of this majestic water scene,

set against the backdrop of the Kootenai National Forest.

(gentle music)

It is home to a variety of sporting fish

and offers year-round angling.

Outdoor enthusiasts are also able to enjoy several beaches,

hiking trails and camping on the waterfront.

One popular site to set up camp

is even in the center of the lake, Yarnell Island.

Although the lake's name, Koocanusa, sounds very tribal,

it was actually the result of a competition

during its construction.

The winning entry was the combination

of Kootenai, Canada, and USA.

Koocanusa.

A lesser known range in northwest Montana,

the Salish Mountains,

are filled mostly with tree-covered summits.

But we're lucky to find one of its open grassy valleys.

The curvy Stillwater River

snakes through Flathead National Forest.

The Salish Mountains feature an extensive network

of logging roads to support the timber industry

as well as many trails that climb

from the valley floor to the peaks

that range from 1,000 to 2,000 meters high.

In the 1960s the rapid pace of industrialization

across the nation became a major conservation issue.

The U.S. government's response was to establish

the National Wilderness Preservation System of 1964,

to designate regions as Wildlife Management Areas.

Both the Upper and Lower Stillwater Lakes

fall under this protection,

guarding vital habitats for a variety of animals,

from bald eagles to mountain lions.

The protected area lies within Stillwater State Forest,

Montana's oldest woodland.

Covering over 38,000 hectares,

it's also the state's largest.

It's a favorite with hikers all year round,

who enjoy climbs up to Antice Knob

for spectacular views of places such as Swift Creek River.

(relaxed music)

Crossing the valley we come to the northern most point

on our journey at the Whitefish Range.

Since the peaks aren't particularly high here,

they provide the right environment for red cedars

and Douglas firs to grow in abundance.

The same can't be said for their neighbors,

the massive, snow-capped mountains of Glacier National Park

which we see in the distance.

Having reached the midpoint of our journey,

we begin heading south along the Flathead River,

which will guide us throughout

the remainder of our expedition.

(gentle music)

This valley, known as Bad Rock Canyon,

acts as a border between Glacier National Park

and the Apgar Mountains.

(water rushing)

The river is commonly called the North Fork,

which refers to the main stem of the Flathead

that is joined two other large tributaries.

(water rushing)

Deemed the wildest river in the continental United States

by the New York Times, the Flathead has been designated

as a National Wild and Scenic River.

Unlike other major river valleys in Montana,

Flathead has never been dammed for hydroelectric power

or mined for natural resources,

despite several recent efforts to drill for coal.

Dipping into Glacier National Park

we follow a small tributary of the Flathead River,

Camas Creek.

Cutting through a series of rolling hills,

it's joined by a road which offers park visitors

a rustic and scenic entry point.

Surrounded by picturesque meadows

of tall grasses and Douglas firs,

Camas Creek is a popular trail for horseback riding.

We cross back over the mountain range, at its southern tip,

and discover the charming lakeside city of Whitefish.

A major recreation center of western Montana,

the city has become both a retirement community

and tourist draw to one of the state's

most popular ski resorts,

with an economy supported by the logging industry as well.

Despite a modest population around 6,000,

Whitefish, as of 2010, was Montana's 14th biggest city.

It first thrived when the Great Northern Railway

laid down tracks through the city in 1904.

20 years later,

the company build this Tudor revival style depot.

Thanks to preservation by the Stumptown Historical Society,

the depot is on the National Register of Historic Places.

Today the station is the busiest hub

for Amtrak's Empire Builder,

a passenger train route from Chicago

to the Pacific Northwest.

Whether traveling to Whitefish by train, plane or car,

visitors and residents most likely find themselves

spending time by the water.

Fed by several tributaries

that flow through the Flathead Watershed,

this 11-kilometer long glacial lake

is surrounded by mountain landscape.

(gentle music)

Dotted around its banks are several state parks,

lakeside resorts, as well as pristine

and sandy public beaches.

While the city's biggest tourist draw

may be the Big Mountain ski resort,

The Lodge here presents a leisurely, graceful stay

with the amenities of a full-service resort.

Tucked between Glacier National Park

and the Kootenai National Forest,

Whitefish Lake is one of Montana's true gems.

(gentle upbeat music)

We descend for our second landing

on this journey at Glacier Park International Airport,

in the city of Kalispell.

Although it does service commercial airlines,

it's a popular landing spot for private jets

and other aircraft, due to its proximity to the park

and the nearby resort towns.

Back in the air, we return to the Flathead flood plain,

jumping several kilometers downstream

from its more turbulent beginnings.

Here it spreads out over this flatter,

glacially shaped valley on its way past our next stop,

Kalispell.

It's the largest city on our journey

as well as the largest city in northwest Montana.

Known as the gateway to Glacier National Park,

Kalispell is a short distance

from several resorts and parks.

Its location led to the city's growth as the commercial,

government and medical hub of Flathead Valley,

symbolized by this historic courthouse, erected in 1902.

At an altitude of 900 meters,

the city was named after its high elevation.

Kalispell is a Salish Indian word meaning,

flat land above the lake.

One of Kalispell's most endearing treasures

is the Victorian home of the city founder, Charles Conrad.

Built in 1895, the home's exterior is accented with arches,

long gables, massive stone chimneys.

Today the home is operated by the city of Kalispell

as a museum and event center,

showcasing almost all of the original family furnishings

throughout its 26 rooms over three floors.

(gentle majestic music)

Conrad's grand residence rests on three landscaped acres,

representing the vision he had

for the entire city of Kalispell when he set foot here 1891.

We join the Flathead River once more,

as it flows past Kalispell.

Here, we see a considerable area of low-lying plains

have been flooded.

The level of flooding varies annually

depending on the quantity of snow in the winter

and the subsequent rainfall in the spring.

The river flow is finally slowed

as it drains into Flathead Lake.

Several rivers and streams flow into this body of water,

including Swan River in the northeast corner,

where we find the quaint town of Bigfork.

No longer a well-kept secret,

publications have deemed this place

one of the 50 great towns of the west

and one of the 100 best small art towns.

From its early days of a farming and timber economy,

Bigfork now thrives as a community known for art, fine food

and theater, as well as growing

its famous Flathead cherries.

Both the waterfront of Swan River

and the 180 mile shoreline of Flathead Lake

became prime real estate for luxury living.

Bigfork is just one of several areas

lined with ornate cabins built into the embankment

of the largest fresh water lake

west of the Mississippi River.

As we head south, we soar close to the lake's choppy waters

en route to the nearby cove of Woods Bay,

which is set on the northern tip

of Flathead National Forest.

(relaxed music)

We linger for a while longer, taking in the beautiful sunset

and shimmering reflections.

(gentle music)

The famous American author, John Steinbeck, once stated,

"I am in love with Montana.

"For other states I have admiration, respect, recognition,

"even some affection.

"But with Montana it is love."

Steinbeck may well been sailing upon the waters

of Flathead Lake when experienced these heartfelt emotions.

We complete our tour here

exploring several of the primitive islands

in the southwest corner, known as Big Arm Bay.

Our first stop is Wild Horse Island State Park.

(relaxed music)

Here the Salish Indians would pasture their steeds

to keep warring tribes from stealing them.

A handful of wild horses

still roam along the rugged prairie grasslands

and gallop into the old-growth Ponderosa pine forest.

Despite the name of the island,

100 other species of wildlife such as bighorn sheep,

mule deer and bald eagles are native to the park.

Rare and endangered plant species have also been found

in the Palouse prairie,

the last remnant of Montana's native grassland.

Owing to the strong winds here,

sailboats are a very common site.

Though the island is clearly a favorite

among hikers, boaters, and swimmers,

camping and biking is prohibited.

But private homes have been present here

since the turn of the 20th century.

The 900-hectare island is mostly owned by the state

and it's been operated as a park since 1978.

(upbeat music)

About a dozen smaller islands exist on the lake,

most of which are inhabited by wildlife.

Some real estate here can be quite expensive

with one home reportedly listing

for 78 million American dollars.

Admittedly, that's with the entire eight-acre island

thrown into the deal.

Located on the lake's southern shore

by Flathead River is Polson.

Before roads had been properly established in the area,

the city was a transportation hub for steam and sail boats.

Today, Polson is a popular summer resort destination

and is at the heart of some of Montana's

most fertile farming areas,

famous again for cherry orchards.

Now at the last leg of our journey,

the lake empties into the lower portion

of the Flathead River, which continues to drain downstream.

It sneaks around the steep hillsides

of the Flathead Indian Reservation

for another 116 kilometers,

eventually joining with the Clark Fork River.

(water burbling)

Whereas the upper section north of the lake

has never been dammed,

this lower section had a very different fate.

16 meters taller than the Niagara Falls,

this is the Kerr Dam

The concrete gravity-arch structure was completed in 1938

and adds three meters to the depth of Flathead Lake.

It's the largest electrical

generating power plant in Montana.

A walkway along the rim

allows for dizzying views of the falls,

as well as the river running into the canyon.

Located within reservation boundaries,

Kerr Dam is jointly operated by a private power company

and the Flathead tribe.

(water rushing) (gentle upbeat music)

And our last stop is in the company

of a few daring travelers.

While Flathead Lake might be an excellent spot

for speed and sail boats, downstream provides excellent

whitewater rafting adventures.

(playful music)

The lower Flathead River is known for having the biggest,

most consistent whitewater in the state.

Rafters can choose from floating peacefully in calm waters

to navigating the challenging,

16-kilometers of Class IV whitewater

known as Wild Buffalo Rapids.

As we bid farewell to our friends on the river,

we also end our journey through northwest Montana.

Here the state motto is oro y plata,

Spanish for Gold and Silver, a nod to her history

a nod to a history of yielding fortunes in precious metals.

However, the stunning panoramas,

from the mountains to the valleys to the whitewater rapids,

are perhaps even more valuable,

and a perfect place to end our journey.

(majestic music)

(logo thudding)

(logo whooshing)