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(wind whooshing)
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(majestic music)
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- Our journey
begins at Highclere Castle,
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the location for one of
television's biggest drama series.
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It's then on to Winchester,
once the capital
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of Anglo-Saxon England.
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We travel south across the countryside
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to the seaside town of Portsmouth,
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home to the world's oldest warship.
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From there, we tour the sights
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of the South Downs National Park
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where we explore England's ancient past.
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We then head across
Sussex to the coastal town
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of Shoreham-by-Sea, the location
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of England's oldest airport.
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Making our way east, we
find the enigmatic landmark
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of the Long Man of Wilmington.
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We conclude our journey at
the resort town of Brighton,
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the most popular seaside
destination in the country.
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(gentle music)
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This is the County of Hampshire.
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Situated within its lush green landscape
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is the grand country
estate of Highclere Castle.
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Like much of England, the building itself
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has been transformed over time.
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But its original foundations
have remained intact.
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The estate has been occupied
for some 1,300 years,
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and it's been home to the
Earls of Carnarvon since 1679.
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The Medieval brick and stone
palace that once stood here
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was transformed into
a gothic style mansion
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in the 19th century.
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(gentle music)
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One of Highclere's most
notable years was 1922
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when the Fifth Earl of
Carnarvon uncovered the tomb
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of Tutankhamen while on an
expedition with Howard Carter.
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The discovery sparked a media frenzy
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and a lasting public fascination.
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But these days, Highclere is best known
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as the filming location
for the hugely popular
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television series "Downton Abbey."
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In the heart of Hampshire is a city
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built on ancient foundations, Winchester.
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(ethereal music)
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The site was first
inhabited about 150 B.C.
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and grew to be one of the largest
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Roman settlements in Britain.
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It was later chosen by
King Alfred the Great
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as the capital of Anglo-Saxon England.
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Winchester's centerpiece is its cathedral
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whose foundations are
rooted in the conversion
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of the pagan monarchy to
Christianity in 635 A.D.
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(ethereal music)
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The original church, called Old Minster,
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was constructed 10 years later
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and stood for 4 1/2 centuries
before it was demolished
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to make way for a new church.
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But the stones from Old
Minster are still here
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in the walls of Winchester
Cathedral, and its outline
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is still visible on the
north side of the cathedral.
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(ethereal music)
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The church as it appears
today was finally completed
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in the 16th century and is recognized
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as Europe's longest Medieval cathedral.
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We now make our way south to
the coastal city of Portsmouth.
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Located at the mouth of the
Wallington River estuary,
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Portsmouth is considered to
be the home of the Royal Navy.
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Soaring over the Keys is the
unmistakable Spinnaker Tower
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designed to resemble a
sail caught in the wind.
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A fitting symbol for
Portsmouth's maritime tradition
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that goes back to the ancient Romans.
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Portsmouth's heritage
is proudly on display
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with HMS Victory, the world's
oldest commissioned warship.
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Construction of the hundred-gun
vessel began in 1759.
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The wood used to build it
was seasoned for 14 years
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before the first board was hewn.
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Life aboard an 18th century
naval ship wasn't an easy one.
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But the lure of being
given a share of the booty
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from a captured enemy vessel
compelled many sailors
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to accept the difficult conditions.
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(lively music)
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Victory's greatest moment was
on the 21st of October 1805
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at the Battle of Trafalgar
off the Spanish Coast.
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It resulted in a crucial British triumph
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which foiled Napoleon's
attempt to invade this country.
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It also sealed Britain's position
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as the world's foremost naval force.
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But success came at a price.
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England's great war hero, Admiral Nelson,
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died aboard the Victory
in the heat of battle.
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(grandiose music)
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Another fine example of
naval ingenuity is Britain's
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first and largest ironclad
warship, HMS Warrior.
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The pride of the Royal
Navy, she was the first ship
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to be designed with
watertight compartments
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and equipped with washing
machines for her crew.
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She was launched in 1860,
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during the coldest winter for 50 years.
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Despite the weather,
enormous crowds gathered
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to witness the historic moment.
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By 1978, the ship was the
only surviving example
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of the Royal Navy's 19th
century iron-hull vessels,
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and she was carefully
restored to her former glory.
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Across the harbor near
the Eastern Shore, we find
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another reminder of England's
former tensions with France.
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Fort Brockhurst has
remained largely unaltered
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since its completion in 1862.
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It was innovative for its time
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as the designers chose to forego
the traditional star shape.
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Instead, the fort was adapted
to the shape of the terrain,
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the first of its type in Britain.
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Brockhurst was one of a
series of fortifications
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built along the coast.
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Though it was unlikely to prove effective
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against the new ironclad warships,
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their real purpose was to deter the enemy
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while the Navy modernized its fleet.
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North of the harbor, Portchester Castle
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stands as a testament to the importance
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of the estuary throughout the ages.
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These third century
flint and limestone walls
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were built on the site of a Roman fort
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and are considered to be the most complete
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of their kind in Northern Europe.
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Its strategic coastal position
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ensured its upkeep for centuries.
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The Norman Castle keep
has stood in the fort's
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northwest corner since its
construction began in 1086.
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But the site eventually lost
its strategic importance.
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The fort served as a prison
during the Napoleonic wars
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and as a barracks until
the early 19th century.
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And having been here for so long,
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Portchester Castle has been described
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as a complete history
of England in one place.
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Another series of fortifications ordered
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due to escalating fear of French invasion
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includes Southsea Castle built in 1544.
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King Henry VIII himself may
have had a hand in the design.
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Throughout its history,
Southsea was only taken once
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when a large parliamentarian force
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surrounded the castle during
the English Civil War.
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The story goes that
the Royalist commander,
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too drunk to fight, asked
them to return in the morning.
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This proved insufficient
to repel the enemy
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and resulted in a handover
with no loss of life.
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Just off the coast is No Man Land's Fort,
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one of four artificial island defenses
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from the mid 19th century.
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After decommissioning, it was converted
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into a luxury hotel in the 1980s.
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But the idea never took off,
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and a new owner took charge in 2004.
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An outbreak of Legionnaires' Disease
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led to a bizarre turn
of events, and by 2008,
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the owner had barricaded
himself within the hotel,
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besieged for several months by
creditors and administrators.
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Its neighbor, Spitbank Fort,
was the last of the four
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to undergo construction, but
the first to be completed.
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They were built in
response to a public outcry
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for protection from an
invasion by Napoleon's Army.
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However, by the time Spitbank
Fort was completed in 1878,
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the threat had long passed.
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(dramatic music)
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The fort's guns were only
pointed at a French vessel
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once in its entire history.
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Ironically, when they
were on the same side.
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After the fall of France
in the Second World War,
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the warship Corbay was spotted
approaching the harbor.
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It was in fact escaping
the German invasion
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and was eventually anchored
off the coast of Portsmouth.
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(grandiose music)
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(gentle music)
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Nestled on a lush rolling hillside
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in the South Downs National
Park, we find relics
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of a different sort at
Butser Ancient Farm.
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This unique living history
museum offers a place
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for modern archaeologists to test theories
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about life in an Iron Age settlement.
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The project began in 1972 and
features four round houses
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based on excavated examples from Wilshire.
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Authentic materials are used
to recreate the buildings
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and fencing for livestock.
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The largest house measures
15 meters in diameter.
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The walls were formed from
a mud mixture called daub.
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Experts had long believed
that it was necessary
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to have an opening in the
roof to let out the smoke.
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Instead, they found that
smoke from the hearth
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easily filters through the thatch.
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The museum serves as an example
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of ancient architectural
skill and ingenuity
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that so shaped the
foundation of English culture
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for countless generations to come.
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Our next destination is a far cry
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from the thatched-roof
cottages of the Iron Age.
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Simply known as Uppark, this
stately 17th century home
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had passed to Harry
Fetherstonhaugh by the late 1700s.
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So Harry was known among the Wessex gentry
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as a bit of a playboy.
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His associations included
Lord Nelson's mistress.
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After years of carousing, Sir
Harry became rather reclusive.
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Then at the age of 70,
he caused quite a scandal
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when he married his
21-year-old dairy maid,
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Mary Ann Bullock.
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Her family inherited
Uppark, and it remained
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00:14:00,410 --> 00:14:02,903
one of England's least
altered country estates
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00:14:02,903 --> 00:14:07,330
until a devastating fire in 1989.
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00:14:07,330 --> 00:14:10,423
It has since been painstakingly restored.
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(bright orchestral music)
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As we continue our journey
across the Sussex countryside,
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we encounter one of England's grandest
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country estates, Petworth House.
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It has served as a family
home for over 800 years.
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(bright orchestral music)
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00:14:34,730 --> 00:14:39,730
The estate's outstanding
feature is the 283-hectare park
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designed by the most renowned
English landscape architect
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of the 18th century, Capability Brown.
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His real name was Lancelot Brown.
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The nickname came from
his remarks to clients
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that there was great capability
to improve that landscape.
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The park keeps one of England's
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00:15:00,530 --> 00:15:03,220
largest herds of fallow deer.
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And some of the trees
have graced the estate
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for more than a thousand years.
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To create the lake and the
centerpiece of his design,
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Capability Brown dammed the stream
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with an estimated 64,000
tons of transported soil.
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00:15:22,380 --> 00:15:24,980
Brown's vision of using carefully placed
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bands of trees and shrubbery
to create the illusion
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00:15:28,220 --> 00:15:30,920
of natural beauty had a profound influence
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on landscape design throughout Europe.
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We now leave the opulence of Petworth
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for the rustic charm of the
Weald and Downland Museum.
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00:15:43,590 --> 00:15:47,100
This 20-hectare site features
an assorted collection
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of 50 historic vernacular
buildings from Southeast England.
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These are not recreations.
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Instead, these structures
have been carefully dismantled
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and then painstakingly reassembled.
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The oldest building at the museum
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dates back to the 13th century.
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Unlike many of England's
great country estates,
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00:16:11,490 --> 00:16:14,240
the homes of ordinary farmers and laborers
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00:16:14,240 --> 00:16:18,340
were not typically preserved
or maintained over the years.
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In addition to homes, the
museum has also restored
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00:16:21,250 --> 00:16:24,970
several agricultural and public buildings.
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00:16:24,970 --> 00:16:29,230
These meticulous reconstructions
are a living timeline,
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00:16:29,230 --> 00:16:32,420
encompassing six centuries
of building technology
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00:16:32,420 --> 00:16:35,433
and architectural history in one place.
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Our next destination is
Chichester and its cathedral
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that continues to grace the city center
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00:16:46,157 --> 00:16:50,573
despite several disasters
over its 900-year history.
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00:16:52,200 --> 00:16:55,870
After fires in the 12th century
caused extensive damage,
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00:16:55,870 --> 00:16:58,573
the church was repaired and improved.
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But more destruction was to follow
253
00:17:02,820 --> 00:17:06,457
during both the Reformation
and the English Civil War.
254
00:17:07,760 --> 00:17:11,410
The church then fell into
a long period of disrepair
255
00:17:11,410 --> 00:17:15,403
until finally restoration
began in the 1840s.
256
00:17:16,510 --> 00:17:19,350
The roof's original lead
sheets were replaced
257
00:17:19,350 --> 00:17:23,100
in the 1940s with copper,
which gives the roof
258
00:17:23,100 --> 00:17:25,293
its distinctive green tarnish.
259
00:17:26,590 --> 00:17:29,117
In recent years, painstaking efforts
260
00:17:29,117 --> 00:17:31,960
have removed centuries of grime,
261
00:17:31,960 --> 00:17:35,193
revealing the ancient
stonework's original luster.
262
00:17:39,060 --> 00:17:41,880
Located on the site of
an ancient river crossing
263
00:17:41,880 --> 00:17:44,900
is the market town of Arundel.
264
00:17:44,900 --> 00:17:48,530
It is also the name given
to its picturesque castle
265
00:17:48,530 --> 00:17:51,060
whose beginnings go back
to the Norman invasions
266
00:17:51,060 --> 00:17:53,713
of England almost a thousand years ago.
267
00:17:56,530 --> 00:17:59,640
The oldest feature is the 30-meter motte,
268
00:17:59,640 --> 00:18:04,230
or the artificial mound built in 1068.
269
00:18:04,230 --> 00:18:08,053
It stands as a symbol of
the fort's ancient origins.
270
00:18:09,580 --> 00:18:12,580
Throughout its long
history, Arundel Castle
271
00:18:12,580 --> 00:18:15,833
has predominantly been the
seat of the Dukes of Norfolk.
272
00:18:17,790 --> 00:18:21,490
Many of them lived in
politically dangerous times.
273
00:18:21,490 --> 00:18:25,590
The Third Duke narrowly
escaped execution in 1547
274
00:18:25,590 --> 00:18:28,050
because King Henry VIII died shortly
275
00:18:28,050 --> 00:18:30,400
before he was due to be dispatched.
276
00:18:30,400 --> 00:18:33,600
His son, the Fourth Duke, wasn't so lucky.
277
00:18:33,600 --> 00:18:37,563
He was beheaded for plotting
to wed Mary Queen of Scots.
278
00:18:38,510 --> 00:18:41,290
But it wasn't until 11 dukes later
279
00:18:41,290 --> 00:18:44,370
that the castle was
given a major makeover.
280
00:18:44,370 --> 00:18:47,000
It was Henry the 15th Duke of Norfolk
281
00:18:47,000 --> 00:18:49,963
who was responsible for
much of what we see today.
282
00:18:51,750 --> 00:18:54,540
He completed the restoration in 1900,
283
00:18:54,540 --> 00:18:57,750
marking its place in the
history of the 20th century
284
00:18:57,750 --> 00:19:00,860
when it became one of the
first English country houses
285
00:19:00,860 --> 00:19:02,743
to be fitted with electric lights.
286
00:19:04,410 --> 00:19:08,290
It also enjoyed service
lifts, central heating,
287
00:19:08,290 --> 00:19:10,683
and even firefighting equipment.
288
00:19:13,820 --> 00:19:16,370
We now leave the Sussex countryside
289
00:19:16,370 --> 00:19:20,373
for the popular seaside resort
town of Shoreham-by-Sea.
290
00:19:23,010 --> 00:19:25,920
The city's history predates the Romans
291
00:19:25,920 --> 00:19:29,833
and is often thought of as the
beach that tourists forgot.
292
00:19:31,590 --> 00:19:34,330
Its fortunes grew after
the arrival of the Normans
293
00:19:34,330 --> 00:19:36,670
in the 11th century, and the port town
294
00:19:36,670 --> 00:19:39,233
acquired a fine reputation
for shipbuilding.
295
00:19:40,170 --> 00:19:42,430
Coastal erosion and the Black Death
296
00:19:42,430 --> 00:19:44,780
curbed the city's prosperity.
297
00:19:44,780 --> 00:19:47,603
But its tradition for
craftsmanship continued.
298
00:19:49,070 --> 00:19:52,060
Shoreham embraced the
20th century by channeling
299
00:19:52,060 --> 00:19:56,603
its talents into a new form of
transportation, the airplane.
300
00:19:57,880 --> 00:20:01,810
Its airport is the oldest
licensed commercial airfield
301
00:20:01,810 --> 00:20:06,217
in Britain, and one of
the oldest in the world.
302
00:20:06,217 --> 00:20:11,217
The distinctive art-deco
facility was built in 1936
303
00:20:11,420 --> 00:20:13,273
and is still in use today.
304
00:20:17,550 --> 00:20:20,640
A little further inland
are the verdant hills
305
00:20:20,640 --> 00:20:24,260
of the South Downs, and a
sight that has long delighted
306
00:20:24,260 --> 00:20:27,182
travelers and day-trippers to the region.
307
00:20:27,182 --> 00:20:29,765
(gentle music)
308
00:20:31,560 --> 00:20:33,900
These two 19th century windmills
309
00:20:33,900 --> 00:20:37,160
are officially known as
the Clayton Windmills,
310
00:20:37,160 --> 00:20:39,813
but locals have dubbed them Jack and Jill.
311
00:20:41,010 --> 00:20:45,510
Jill is the older of
the two, built in 1821.
312
00:20:45,510 --> 00:20:49,900
Jack, the larger one, was built in 1866.
313
00:20:49,900 --> 00:20:54,540
It featured in the 1973
movie "The Black Windmill,"
314
00:20:54,540 --> 00:20:58,560
and its exterior was specially
painted for the filming.
315
00:20:58,560 --> 00:21:02,240
Meanwhile, Jill has been
fully restored by volunteers
316
00:21:02,240 --> 00:21:04,403
and is open for public tours.
317
00:21:08,130 --> 00:21:11,660
One surprising sight in
the Sussex countryside
318
00:21:11,660 --> 00:21:13,403
is the Long Man of Wilmington.
319
00:21:15,770 --> 00:21:18,880
This mysterious guardian
of the South Downs
320
00:21:18,880 --> 00:21:22,693
has baffled archaeologists
and historians for centuries.
321
00:21:23,900 --> 00:21:27,646
A drawing from 1710
indicates that the figure,
322
00:21:27,646 --> 00:21:31,403
possibly a war god, once
had facial features.
323
00:21:32,550 --> 00:21:35,610
Dating it has so far eluded experts,
324
00:21:35,610 --> 00:21:39,673
and its true origin may
forever remain a mystery.
325
00:21:43,270 --> 00:21:45,550
We now leave the peaceful countryside
326
00:21:45,550 --> 00:21:48,953
for the bustling seaside
community of Brighton.
327
00:21:51,450 --> 00:21:55,350
For more than 2 1/2 centuries,
it has enjoyed a reputation
328
00:21:55,350 --> 00:21:58,033
as the most popular
seaside resort in Britain.
329
00:21:59,270 --> 00:22:03,800
The town's future was forever
changed when, in 1750,
330
00:22:03,800 --> 00:22:06,600
Dr. Richard Russell's seawater cure
331
00:22:06,600 --> 00:22:09,573
drew aristocracy in their droves.
332
00:22:11,030 --> 00:22:15,183
Over the past century, Brighton's
appeal continued to grow.
333
00:22:16,350 --> 00:22:20,210
More recently, an appreciation
for the history has emerged,
334
00:22:20,210 --> 00:22:22,600
and today the town has been reinvented
335
00:22:22,600 --> 00:22:25,003
as a trendy, free-spirited community.
336
00:22:28,700 --> 00:22:30,770
Brighton's most renowned resident
337
00:22:30,770 --> 00:22:33,353
was the Prince Regent,
the future George IV.
338
00:22:34,730 --> 00:22:37,040
The prince was so fond of the place,
339
00:22:37,040 --> 00:22:40,690
he built one of the most notable
and recognizable landmarks,
340
00:22:40,690 --> 00:22:42,603
the Brighton Royal Pavilion.
341
00:22:44,380 --> 00:22:47,730
Construction of the palace began in 1787
342
00:22:47,730 --> 00:22:50,783
and took nearly 35 years to complete.
343
00:22:52,550 --> 00:22:56,510
With its exotic Asian-style
designs, it has been compared
344
00:22:56,510 --> 00:23:00,364
to everything, from the
Kremlin to a Norfolk turnip.
345
00:23:00,364 --> 00:23:02,910
(gentle music)
346
00:23:02,910 --> 00:23:06,380
But most would agree that
it's a perfect illustration
347
00:23:06,380 --> 00:23:09,363
of the extravagance of a bygone era.
348
00:23:13,080 --> 00:23:15,590
Just off the shore, we
find a very different
349
00:23:15,590 --> 00:23:16,983
remnant of the past.
350
00:23:19,080 --> 00:23:22,570
This twisted iron skeleton
is all that remains
351
00:23:22,570 --> 00:23:24,163
of Brighton's West Pier.
352
00:23:25,360 --> 00:23:30,083
Built in 1866, it was once the
height of Victorian elegance.
353
00:23:31,170 --> 00:23:33,310
But it gradually fell into disrepair
354
00:23:33,310 --> 00:23:34,903
and closed to the public.
355
00:23:37,500 --> 00:23:41,810
A large section collapsed
during a heavy storm in 2002.
356
00:23:41,810 --> 00:23:44,150
And only three months later,
357
00:23:44,150 --> 00:23:47,520
a fire destroyed the remaining section.
358
00:23:47,520 --> 00:23:49,600
Rumors about the cause of the blaze
359
00:23:49,600 --> 00:23:52,310
circulated among the locals for months.
360
00:23:52,310 --> 00:23:55,963
Plans for a new landmark
are under development.
361
00:23:58,040 --> 00:24:01,190
Our last stop on this
journey is Brighton Pier,
362
00:24:01,190 --> 00:24:03,303
the city's most popular attraction.
363
00:24:04,840 --> 00:24:07,170
It's changed dramatically
since the original
364
00:24:07,170 --> 00:24:10,153
chain pier was built in 1823.
365
00:24:11,000 --> 00:24:14,513
Then, it served primarily
as a landing stage.
366
00:24:15,540 --> 00:24:18,830
Merchants soon began
charging an entry fee.
367
00:24:18,830 --> 00:24:22,190
Kiosks selling souvenirs
and confectioneries
368
00:24:22,190 --> 00:24:26,310
sprang up along its length, as
well as entertainment stores
369
00:24:26,310 --> 00:24:29,330
with fortune tellers and silhouette shows.
370
00:24:29,330 --> 00:24:33,510
It was sold in 1889, but
was completely wiped out
371
00:24:33,510 --> 00:24:36,890
by a storm later that same year.
372
00:24:36,890 --> 00:24:40,110
It was rebuilt, and Brighton Palace Pier
373
00:24:40,110 --> 00:24:44,650
opened in grand ceremony in May 1899,
374
00:24:44,650 --> 00:24:47,840
lit with 3,000 light bulbs.
375
00:24:47,840 --> 00:24:52,493
Today, 67,000 provide
illumination at night.
376
00:24:53,650 --> 00:24:58,250
The pier was renovated in
1984, and some of the changes
377
00:24:58,250 --> 00:25:02,030
included free admission,
free use of the deck chairs,
378
00:25:02,030 --> 00:25:04,580
and new refreshment outlets.
379
00:25:04,580 --> 00:25:08,280
Despite the changes, the
remnants of earlier features,
380
00:25:08,280 --> 00:25:10,150
like the concert hall, theater,
381
00:25:10,150 --> 00:25:12,850
and bandstand, can still be seen.
382
00:25:12,850 --> 00:25:15,120
Much of modern Britain is built upon
383
00:25:15,120 --> 00:25:18,280
the foundations of its past, and told
384
00:25:18,280 --> 00:25:21,210
through its landmarks and architecture.
385
00:25:21,210 --> 00:25:24,990
Brighton is a perfect
example of Britain's capacity
386
00:25:24,990 --> 00:25:28,383
for valuing the past while
embracing the future.
387
00:25:29,490 --> 00:25:32,473
A fitting place to end this journey.
388
00:25:35,621 --> 00:25:39,121
(bright orchestral music)
389
00:26:08,903 --> 00:26:12,293
(pulsating music)
390
00:26:12,293 --> 00:26:14,626
(whooshing)
32030
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