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(upbeat music)
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- Our journey
around north Spain begins
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at the Basque Country
resort town of Hondarribia.
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We'll pass many of the
quaint mountain villages,
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such as Roncesvalles, that line
the medieval pilgrim's road.
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We venture into the Navarre region
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and the Pyrenees Mountains that form
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a natural border between Spain and France.
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It's then on to Pamplona,
the Navarre capital
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famous for the running of the bulls.
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Heading west, we return to
Basque country and Vitoria
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before our expedition to the
famous wine region of Rioja.
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We need our journey in Burgos,
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with it's cathedral, one of
the finest in all of Spain.
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(upbeat music)
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Situated on the far side of this bay,
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that separates Spain from France,
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is the Basque town of Hondarribia.
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Being on the border, Hondarribia has seen
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it's fair share of battles
over the centuries.
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But now, along with its
neighboring French town of Hendaye,
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it lures tourists with
its seafaring and fishing
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as well as the beaches, which rest against
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the hilly backdrop of
the Jaizkibel Mountains.
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Visitors not only enjoy
basking by the waters of
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the Txingudi Bay, but also
the local Basque cuisine
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and the centuries old
tradition of wine making.
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As the last remaining walled
town along these shores,
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Hondarribia guarded against
aggressors from entering
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the Pyrenees during 16th
Century European conflicts.
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Today, things are a little different
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with San Sebastian Airport providing
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easy access to the Spanish coast.
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Hondarribia offers a
charming welcome as we
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make our descent along the
airport's riverside runway.
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It wasn't until 1992 that
France and Spain finally agreed
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to allow jet powered aircraft
to land at the airport
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and it's here that we
refuel before making our way
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into the heart of the Pyrenees
along the border with France.
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The first peaks and valleys we cross
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are part of the Aya Nature Park.
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It's a distinctive formation of summits
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that make up the western
tip of the mountain range.
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Below us is the Bidasoa River
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which marks the border
between Spain and France.
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00:04:02,560 --> 00:04:06,540
Another natural border is the
main crest of the Pyrenees
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which extends almost 500
kilometers from the Bay of Biscay
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right across to the Mediterranean Sea.
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00:04:16,500 --> 00:04:18,420
As the Pyrenees march eastward,
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we arrive at the edge of the
Senorio de Bertiz Natural Park.
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Its 2000 hectares of Atlantic forest
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comprise mainly beech and oak trees.
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Our journey takes us over Elizondo,
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the largest of 15 settlements spread
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across this lush valley.
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In 1813, this was the headquarters for the
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British General during the
Battle of the Pyrenees.
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The town lies of the
banks of the river Baztan
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and boats numerous stately
homes and even small palaces.
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Amongst the rich wildlife
found in these mountains
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is the largest and most important
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vulture population in Europe.
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Here, we spotted a flock
of what's likely to be
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griffin vultures, the most
common breed in the region.
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Due to efforts to prevent the
spread of Mad Cow Disease,
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food has become scarce for the birds.
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It's a problem that
gained worldwide attention
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after griffin vultures feasted
on the remains of a hiker
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moments after she'd fallen to her death.
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Appearing over this hill
might seem to be yet another
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one of the numerous villages
dotting these valleys.
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But what makes Roncesvalles
special is it lies on one of
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the most important pilgrimage
routes in Christendom,
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the Way of Saint James.
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Still used by thousands each year.
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And this 11th century
abbey was once renowned
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for its generous treatment of the pilgrims
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seeking food and shelter on their journey.
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Rebuilt in 1400, it is considered
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the oldest example of gothic
architecture in Spain.
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Further north along the
path is this little chapel.
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Known as the Church of
San Salvadore de Ibaneta.
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It was constructed on the original grounds
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of a small 11th century monastery,
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which was also a medical
center for the pilgrims.
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This hill in Ibaneta rests
along the ancient route
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of the western Pyrenees where Roland,
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the legendary military
leader, died in battle in 778,
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marking the defeat of
the Emperor Charlemagne.
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These winding roads have played
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an important role even
in more recent history.
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Along the route are the
remains of several bunkers,
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they were part of a line
of defense created after
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the Spanish Civil War by
the dictator General Franco,
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who feared an invasion by the
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Allied Forces after World War Two.
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Today Puerta de Ibaneta
serves a more peaceful role
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as a major highway
between France and Spain,
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stretching south towards
our next destination.
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The historical capital of Navarre,
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Pamplona has gained worldwide notoriety
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for the San Fermin festival
and the running of the bulls.
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The city rests in this basin
that links the mountains
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of the north with the
valley of the river Ebro.
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At its heart lies the Plaza de Castillo
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where events such as markets, parades
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and bull fights are held.
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One of Pamplona's distinctive landmarks
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are the two towers of the 13th century
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gothic church of San Saturnino.
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The clock tower, topped with
a cockerel weather vane,
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annually signals the start
of the San Fermin festival
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and the daily running of the bulls.
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Having played a strategic
role in the defense
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of the Pyrenees for
centuries, the city prohibited
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urban expansion beyond the
original fortifications.
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After the First World
War, the army allowed
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the destruction of the southern walls
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and the town spread in a grid pattern
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with the construction of
tall apartment buildings.
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Today, Pamplona has one of the
highest standards of living,
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as well as quality of life, in Spain.
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On the very edge of the Old Quarter,
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is one of the most prized
monuments in Pamplona,
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the Cathedral of Santa Maria.
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Constructed on the site of an
earlier Romanesque cathedral,
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work began in 1394 and extended
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throughout the entire 15th century.
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Resulting in this Latin cross shape.
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The neoclassical facade was
added in the late 1700s.
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The Gothic temple has long served
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as the city's Arch Diocese,
where the medieval Navarre kings
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were crowned and buried
and parliaments were held.
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A visit to Pamplona isn't
complete without seeing
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the Plaza de Toros, the official
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end point of the running of the bulls.
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Built in 1922, the arena
holds nearly 20,000 people.
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The House of Mercy, a charity
for the underprivileged,
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owns the stadium and uses
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the profits to fund their services.
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The constraints of a fortified
city resulted in little or no
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development for Pamplona during
the Industrial Revolution.
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Once the city was freed
from its military function,
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it thrived as a commercial center
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of Navarre in the late 20th century.
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A suburban belt of factories
and worker's dwellings
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sprang up with car manufacturing
dominating the economy.
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With its more modern
architecture, these outlying areas
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are in stark contrast with the old city.
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Another emerging sector in
Pamplona is renewable energy.
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More than 70% of its electricity
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comes from wind and
other renewable sources.
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Contributing to Spain's position
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as the fourth largest user of wind power.
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It's no wonder then that
behind this vast array
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lining the mountain ridges
is one of the biggest
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wind turbine companies in the world.
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Crossing the River Arga, we
continue into the mountains.
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Beyond this peak is a bowl like valley,
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so characteristic of the Pyrenees.
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Formed from glacial erosion.
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And nestled in one of
the hollows and sheltered
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from the strong north winds is the town
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of Salinas de Oro, known
for its saltwater baths.
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Great lakes are few and
far between in the Pyrenees
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but here we find Alloz, where the locals
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are actually able to windsurf due to
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the strong gusts that
blow across the lake.
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The reservoir was built
in 1930 to provide water
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to assist with the dry farming landscape.
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We're now over the foothills
of the Andia Range.
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The village of Lezaun lies
between two major roads
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that service this western
region of Navarre.
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We make our way up to a massive escarpment
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that's part of of the
Urbasa and Andia ranges.
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Together they form a major natural park in
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northwest Navarre, spanning
nearly 21,000 hectares.
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The mountains create a
geographical barrier separating
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two major bio climates, the
Atlanta and the Mediterranean.
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Beech woods cover 70% of the park,
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they give way to flat
pastoral areas called razos,
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which are approximately 1000 meters high
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and scattered with heather and hawthorns.
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These are known scientifically
as karstic ranges.
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Meaning that the limestone
soil allows water
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to filter below the surface
and run underground,
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limiting surface water
such as rivers and lakes.
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This drainage creates a
large amount of pot holes,
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sink holes and chasms throughout the park,
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making it ideal for caving enthusiasts.
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The edge of the Urbasa-Andia Natural Park
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marks the border of Navarre.
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Here, we make our way towards
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the second largest Basque city.
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Overshadowed by Bilbao and San Sebastian,
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Vitoria has been described
by one of the leading British
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newspapers as the forgotten
gem of Basque Country.
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The region's capital dates
back to the Middle Ages.
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00:14:16,550 --> 00:14:21,450
The old quarter still has the
medieval almond shaped layout,
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00:14:21,450 --> 00:14:23,820
and at it's apex is the cathedral
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00:14:23,820 --> 00:14:26,783
that once served as a gateway to the city.
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Adding to it's roster
of magnificent churches,
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the new cathedral, Spain's
second largest church,
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00:14:34,430 --> 00:14:36,323
was built in the 20th Century.
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00:14:38,500 --> 00:14:40,340
With a history of craftsmanship,
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many of the old quarter streets
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are named after trades like blacksmith,
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00:14:44,630 --> 00:14:46,980
shoemaker and painter.
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00:14:46,980 --> 00:14:51,540
Vitoria was named European
Green Capital in 2012,
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partly due to the green ring,
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a network of parks around the city.
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But for visitors, the main attractions
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00:14:59,400 --> 00:15:01,313
are it's two main squares.
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Plaza de la Virgen Blanca commemorates
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the Battle of Victoria with this statue,
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00:15:08,260 --> 00:15:11,293
signifying the end of
French rule in Spain.
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00:15:13,830 --> 00:15:16,210
Nearby is the Plaza de Espana,
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00:15:16,210 --> 00:15:18,963
otherwise known as Plaza Nueva.
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00:15:20,590 --> 00:15:25,040
The city's neoclassical town
hall presides over the square.
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00:15:25,040 --> 00:15:27,860
Designed in the 18th Century as a signal
221
00:15:27,860 --> 00:15:31,720
of urban expansion and
uniting the old quarter
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00:15:31,720 --> 00:15:33,103
with a newer district.
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00:15:35,600 --> 00:15:38,430
The square originally held bull fights,
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00:15:38,430 --> 00:15:41,300
but today it's used for weekend markets
225
00:15:41,300 --> 00:15:43,113
and cultural festivities.
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00:15:47,000 --> 00:15:49,120
As we head south from Vitoria,
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we cross into the tiny enclave of Trevino.
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00:15:54,600 --> 00:15:57,810
Though it lies entirely
within the Basque Country,
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00:15:57,810 --> 00:16:01,163
it's actually administered
by a neighboring authority.
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This has been a point of contention
231
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between the two autonomous governments
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for over a century.
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00:16:10,640 --> 00:16:13,060
We dip back into Basque Country once more
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00:16:13,060 --> 00:16:15,450
to catch a brief glimpse of Lagran,
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00:16:15,450 --> 00:16:17,610
a once strategic mountain town
236
00:16:17,610 --> 00:16:20,043
where two communication channels crossed.
237
00:16:22,820 --> 00:16:24,800
Today it rests peacefully among
238
00:16:24,800 --> 00:16:26,863
the Cantabria mountain range.
239
00:16:29,710 --> 00:16:33,160
Passing an elevation
of nearly 1300 meters,
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00:16:33,160 --> 00:16:36,490
over Cruz del Castillo,
reveals one of the great
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00:16:36,490 --> 00:16:38,760
wine making regions in the world,
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00:16:38,760 --> 00:16:41,053
the Rioja Alavesa Valley.
243
00:16:48,210 --> 00:16:50,760
The gateway to the
region is the picturesque
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00:16:50,760 --> 00:16:52,413
city of Laguardia.
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00:16:54,150 --> 00:16:56,540
Perched on a hill, it is surrounded by
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00:16:56,540 --> 00:16:59,773
some of Spain's most famous
vineyards and wineries.
247
00:17:01,940 --> 00:17:06,550
A 13th Century wall built by
Navarre king Sancho the Strong
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00:17:06,550 --> 00:17:09,260
encircles the town where the 18th Century
249
00:17:09,260 --> 00:17:12,913
church of San Juan situated
at it's southern tip.
250
00:17:16,500 --> 00:17:19,420
Once its days as a
military post were over,
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00:17:19,420 --> 00:17:22,160
Laguardia residents began taking advantage
252
00:17:22,160 --> 00:17:25,430
of the optimal conditions
in the underground tunnels
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00:17:25,430 --> 00:17:27,493
to make and store wine.
254
00:17:30,130 --> 00:17:32,730
Today Laguardia is a prosperous town
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00:17:32,730 --> 00:17:35,333
full of gourmet restaurants and hotels.
256
00:17:36,330 --> 00:17:39,500
At the bodegas or wineries,
visitors can taste
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00:17:39,500 --> 00:17:41,893
some of the finest Riojas from the region.
258
00:17:47,550 --> 00:17:50,620
The most architecturally
striking bodega here
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00:17:50,620 --> 00:17:53,140
is the Ysios Winery.
260
00:17:53,140 --> 00:17:56,820
Inaugurated in 2001, it was conceived as
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00:17:56,820 --> 00:17:59,503
a temple for the worship of wine.
262
00:18:01,580 --> 00:18:03,720
The roof is made of wooden beams,
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00:18:03,720 --> 00:18:07,880
finished in aluminum, a
contrast to the exterior walls,
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00:18:07,880 --> 00:18:09,910
which are lined with timber slats
265
00:18:09,910 --> 00:18:12,823
intended to resemble rows of barrels.
266
00:18:16,240 --> 00:18:18,400
This fertile valley is governed by
267
00:18:18,400 --> 00:18:21,610
the autonomous community of La Rioja.
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00:18:21,610 --> 00:18:23,090
There are three sub regions,
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00:18:23,090 --> 00:18:27,610
whose wines all fall under the
prestigious classification,
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00:18:27,610 --> 00:18:30,880
and together they produce 250 million
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00:18:30,880 --> 00:18:35,880
liters of wine annually,
85% of which are reds.
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00:18:36,240 --> 00:18:39,981
Most wine producers own vineyards
right across the valley,
273
00:18:39,981 --> 00:18:43,250
and because many Riojas
are blended from grapes
274
00:18:43,250 --> 00:18:45,490
harvested at more than one site,
275
00:18:45,490 --> 00:18:49,470
they are not necessarily
labeled by sub region.
276
00:18:49,470 --> 00:18:52,470
The quality of the fruit can vary greatly
277
00:18:52,470 --> 00:18:54,133
depending on the geography.
278
00:18:56,140 --> 00:18:59,780
Those grown here benefit
from the cool sheltering
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00:18:59,780 --> 00:19:01,960
of the Cantabrian Mountains,
280
00:19:01,960 --> 00:19:04,200
leaving the wine with a good acidity
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00:19:04,200 --> 00:19:06,090
and mineral character.
282
00:19:06,090 --> 00:19:09,490
The vines we see are largely tempranillo,
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00:19:09,490 --> 00:19:13,860
a black grape that
produces full bodied reds.
284
00:19:13,860 --> 00:19:16,910
They account for 80% of all planting in
285
00:19:16,910 --> 00:19:20,023
the mostly chalky and clay
soils of Rioja Alavesa.
286
00:19:23,240 --> 00:19:26,920
A little further west is the
small town of San Vicente,
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00:19:26,920 --> 00:19:28,843
on the banks of the River Ebro.
288
00:19:30,200 --> 00:19:31,980
Perched on the top of the hill
289
00:19:31,980 --> 00:19:34,603
are the remains of a 12th Century castle.
290
00:19:36,530 --> 00:19:38,420
Once a formidable fortress,
291
00:19:38,420 --> 00:19:40,230
it was part of the defensive line
292
00:19:40,230 --> 00:19:42,663
between Laguardia and La Bastida.
293
00:19:45,060 --> 00:19:49,500
Beside it is the red roof
church of Santa Maria Maggiore.
294
00:19:49,500 --> 00:19:51,320
Built in the 16th Century,
295
00:19:51,320 --> 00:19:54,523
it continues to hold services once a week.
296
00:19:59,960 --> 00:20:02,970
Another small town of
note along the River Ebro
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00:20:02,970 --> 00:20:07,930
is Haro, situated in the western
wine region of Rioja Alta.
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00:20:12,470 --> 00:20:16,080
Its distinctive landmark,
the Church of Saint Thomas,
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00:20:16,080 --> 00:20:18,760
is a Spanish national monument.
300
00:20:18,760 --> 00:20:21,910
The tower is visible from
almost any part of the town,
301
00:20:21,910 --> 00:20:23,973
as well as the outlying areas.
302
00:20:30,290 --> 00:20:34,880
About a kilometer north is
a splendid medieval relic.
303
00:20:34,880 --> 00:20:39,880
Stretching 150 meters across
the Ebro is the Brinas Bridge.
304
00:20:42,440 --> 00:20:44,840
The oldest parts of the stone structure
305
00:20:44,840 --> 00:20:48,023
are estimated to have been
built in the 13th Century.
306
00:20:50,100 --> 00:20:54,250
The bridge was one of the few
crossings of the River Ebro.
307
00:20:54,250 --> 00:20:56,550
It provided the only safe passage
308
00:20:56,550 --> 00:20:59,633
for Christian pilgrims on
their way to Compostela.
309
00:21:02,279 --> 00:21:05,900
It was used for traffic
right up until the 1950s,
310
00:21:05,900 --> 00:21:09,003
when another bridge was built
further along the river.
311
00:21:13,860 --> 00:21:16,330
Nearby is the village of Sajazarra,
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00:21:16,330 --> 00:21:19,680
surrounded by vineyards on all sides.
313
00:21:19,680 --> 00:21:23,260
Looming over the houses
is Castillo Palacio,
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00:21:23,260 --> 00:21:25,480
constructed in the 15th Century
315
00:21:25,480 --> 00:21:29,950
when the village became an
estate of the House of Velasco.
316
00:21:29,950 --> 00:21:33,383
Today it's Sajazarra's
most treasured winery.
317
00:21:38,490 --> 00:21:40,840
Leaving La Rioja and its vineyards,
318
00:21:40,840 --> 00:21:43,280
our journey now turns southwest
319
00:21:43,280 --> 00:21:46,440
over the arid plains of Castile and León.
320
00:21:48,330 --> 00:21:51,290
This is the geological edge that separates
321
00:21:51,290 --> 00:21:54,120
the central plateau of
the Iberian peninsula
322
00:21:54,120 --> 00:21:55,363
from the Ebro Valley.
323
00:21:56,550 --> 00:21:59,760
It's a truly diverse
landscape of mountain ranges,
324
00:21:59,760 --> 00:22:01,743
plains, and depressions.
325
00:22:03,360 --> 00:22:06,680
These winding narrow canyons
break up the plateaus
326
00:22:06,680 --> 00:22:09,053
in intricate and varied patterns.
327
00:22:12,840 --> 00:22:15,060
Flying low through one of the ravines
328
00:22:15,060 --> 00:22:19,660
reveals how every available
space has been cultivated.
329
00:22:19,660 --> 00:22:23,310
Whereas La Rioja is mainly
devoted to vineyards,
330
00:22:23,310 --> 00:22:26,700
Castile and León is a
major grower of cereals,
331
00:22:26,700 --> 00:22:29,513
and is known as the granary of Spain.
332
00:22:32,790 --> 00:22:35,410
This winding path will eventually lead us
333
00:22:35,410 --> 00:22:37,970
to our last stop on this aerial journey
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00:22:37,970 --> 00:22:39,143
around northern Spain,
335
00:22:44,033 --> 00:22:46,366
the historic city of Burgos.
336
00:22:48,890 --> 00:22:51,470
The capital of Castile and León emerged
337
00:22:51,470 --> 00:22:54,250
as an economic powerhouse
in the Middle Ages,
338
00:22:54,250 --> 00:22:56,940
as it was a key way point
on the pilgrims' route
339
00:22:56,940 --> 00:22:59,023
to Santiago de Compostela.
340
00:23:03,970 --> 00:23:06,860
Burgos celebrates its
link with 11th Century
341
00:23:06,860 --> 00:23:09,940
Spanish national hero El Cid,
342
00:23:09,940 --> 00:23:12,113
who was raised and educated here.
343
00:23:13,870 --> 00:23:15,870
It later played an important role
344
00:23:15,870 --> 00:23:18,240
during the Spanish Civil War as a base
345
00:23:18,240 --> 00:23:21,443
for General Franco's rebel
nationalist government.
346
00:23:23,010 --> 00:23:27,160
But today the bustling
city of 180,000 inhabitants
347
00:23:27,160 --> 00:23:30,520
is more associated with
first class cuisine,
348
00:23:30,520 --> 00:23:34,713
tree lined promenades and
its many historic landmarks.
349
00:23:35,580 --> 00:23:38,860
With fine examples of
Spanish gothic architecture,
350
00:23:38,860 --> 00:23:42,560
Burgos has managed to
preserve much of its past,
351
00:23:42,560 --> 00:23:45,363
like the famous gateway of Santa Maria.
352
00:23:46,800 --> 00:23:49,460
This bridge, crossing the River Arlanzon,
353
00:23:49,460 --> 00:23:52,290
directs pedestrians to a limestone arch
354
00:23:52,290 --> 00:23:55,574
erected in the 16th
Century to first welcome
355
00:23:55,574 --> 00:23:57,647
Emperor Charles V to Burgos.
356
00:23:59,550 --> 00:24:02,210
The facade holds statues of key figures
357
00:24:02,210 --> 00:24:03,483
in the city's history.
358
00:24:06,320 --> 00:24:11,110
And saving the best til last,
this is Burgos Cathedral,
359
00:24:11,110 --> 00:24:13,633
a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
360
00:24:15,030 --> 00:24:17,660
Construction began in 1221,
361
00:24:17,660 --> 00:24:22,353
then continued sporadically
for the next 350 years.
362
00:24:23,810 --> 00:24:25,800
Each stage of building employed
363
00:24:25,800 --> 00:24:28,173
the greatest architects of Europe.
364
00:24:29,020 --> 00:24:31,880
The facade was inspired by the cathedrals
365
00:24:31,880 --> 00:24:33,533
of Paris and Reims.
366
00:24:35,010 --> 00:24:38,220
The three story elevation,
vaulting and windows,
367
00:24:38,220 --> 00:24:40,903
all reflected French designs of the time.
368
00:24:43,900 --> 00:24:47,050
Construction was halted
for over 200 years,
369
00:24:47,050 --> 00:24:49,760
before picking up in the mid 15th Century
370
00:24:49,760 --> 00:24:52,613
when these intricate
ornamentations were added.
371
00:24:58,310 --> 00:25:01,870
This can be seen in
the steep hollow spires
372
00:25:01,870 --> 00:25:03,823
that crown the graceful towers.
373
00:25:17,510 --> 00:25:21,770
In 1917, the tomb of El Cid was relocated
374
00:25:21,770 --> 00:25:25,470
to Burgos Cathedral,
providing the Spanish hero
375
00:25:25,470 --> 00:25:28,830
with a resplendent final resting place.
376
00:25:28,830 --> 00:25:31,833
And a fine place to end this journey.
377
00:25:35,456 --> 00:25:38,039
(upbeat music)
30874
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