Original subtitles

(upbeat music)

- Our journey around north Spain begins

at the Basque Country resort town of Hondarribia.

We'll pass many of the quaint mountain villages,

such as Roncesvalles, that line the medieval pilgrim's road.

We venture into the Navarre region

and the Pyrenees Mountains that form

a natural border between Spain and France.

It's then on to Pamplona, the Navarre capital

famous for the running of the bulls.

Heading west, we return to Basque country and Vitoria

before our expedition to the famous wine region of Rioja.

We need our journey in Burgos,

with it's cathedral, one of the finest in all of Spain.

(upbeat music)

Situated on the far side of this bay,

that separates Spain from France,

is the Basque town of Hondarribia.

Being on the border, Hondarribia has seen

it's fair share of battles over the centuries.

But now, along with its neighboring French town of Hendaye,

it lures tourists with its seafaring and fishing

as well as the beaches, which rest against

the hilly backdrop of the Jaizkibel Mountains.

Visitors not only enjoy basking by the waters of

the Txingudi Bay, but also the local Basque cuisine

and the centuries old tradition of wine making.

As the last remaining walled town along these shores,

Hondarribia guarded against aggressors from entering

the Pyrenees during 16th Century European conflicts.

Today, things are a little different

with San Sebastian Airport providing

easy access to the Spanish coast.

Hondarribia offers a charming welcome as we

make our descent along the airport's riverside runway.

It wasn't until 1992 that France and Spain finally agreed

to allow jet powered aircraft to land at the airport

and it's here that we refuel before making our way

into the heart of the Pyrenees along the border with France.

The first peaks and valleys we cross

are part of the Aya Nature Park.

It's a distinctive formation of summits

that make up the western tip of the mountain range.

Below us is the Bidasoa River

which marks the border between Spain and France.

Another natural border is the main crest of the Pyrenees

which extends almost 500 kilometers from the Bay of Biscay

right across to the Mediterranean Sea.

As the Pyrenees march eastward,

we arrive at the edge of the Senorio de Bertiz Natural Park.

Its 2000 hectares of Atlantic forest

comprise mainly beech and oak trees.

Our journey takes us over Elizondo,

the largest of 15 settlements spread

across this lush valley.

In 1813, this was the headquarters for the

British General during the Battle of the Pyrenees.

The town lies of the banks of the river Baztan

and boats numerous stately homes and even small palaces.

Amongst the rich wildlife found in these mountains

is the largest and most important

vulture population in Europe.

Here, we spotted a flock of what's likely to be

griffin vultures, the most common breed in the region.

Due to efforts to prevent the spread of Mad Cow Disease,

food has become scarce for the birds.

It's a problem that gained worldwide attention

after griffin vultures feasted on the remains of a hiker

moments after she'd fallen to her death.

Appearing over this hill might seem to be yet another

one of the numerous villages dotting these valleys.

But what makes Roncesvalles special is it lies on one of

the most important pilgrimage routes in Christendom,

the Way of Saint James.

Still used by thousands each year.

And this 11th century abbey was once renowned

for its generous treatment of the pilgrims

seeking food and shelter on their journey.

Rebuilt in 1400, it is considered

the oldest example of gothic architecture in Spain.

Further north along the path is this little chapel.

Known as the Church of San Salvadore de Ibaneta.

It was constructed on the original grounds

of a small 11th century monastery,

which was also a medical center for the pilgrims.

This hill in Ibaneta rests along the ancient route

of the western Pyrenees where Roland,

the legendary military leader, died in battle in 778,

marking the defeat of the Emperor Charlemagne.

These winding roads have played

an important role even in more recent history.

Along the route are the remains of several bunkers,

they were part of a line of defense created after

the Spanish Civil War by the dictator General Franco,

who feared an invasion by the

Allied Forces after World War Two.

Today Puerta de Ibaneta serves a more peaceful role

as a major highway between France and Spain,

stretching south towards our next destination.

The historical capital of Navarre,

Pamplona has gained worldwide notoriety

for the San Fermin festival and the running of the bulls.

The city rests in this basin that links the mountains

of the north with the valley of the river Ebro.

At its heart lies the Plaza de Castillo

where events such as markets, parades

and bull fights are held.

One of Pamplona's distinctive landmarks

are the two towers of the 13th century

gothic church of San Saturnino.

The clock tower, topped with a cockerel weather vane,

annually signals the start of the San Fermin festival

and the daily running of the bulls.

Having played a strategic role in the defense

of the Pyrenees for centuries, the city prohibited

urban expansion beyond the original fortifications.

After the First World War, the army allowed

the destruction of the southern walls

and the town spread in a grid pattern

with the construction of tall apartment buildings.

Today, Pamplona has one of the highest standards of living,

as well as quality of life, in Spain.

On the very edge of the Old Quarter,

is one of the most prized monuments in Pamplona,

the Cathedral of Santa Maria.

Constructed on the site of an earlier Romanesque cathedral,

work began in 1394 and extended

throughout the entire 15th century.

Resulting in this Latin cross shape.

The neoclassical facade was added in the late 1700s.

The Gothic temple has long served

as the city's Arch Diocese, where the medieval Navarre kings

were crowned and buried and parliaments were held.

A visit to Pamplona isn't complete without seeing

the Plaza de Toros, the official

end point of the running of the bulls.

Built in 1922, the arena holds nearly 20,000 people.

The House of Mercy, a charity for the underprivileged,

owns the stadium and uses

the profits to fund their services.

The constraints of a fortified city resulted in little or no

development for Pamplona during the Industrial Revolution.

Once the city was freed from its military function,

it thrived as a commercial center

of Navarre in the late 20th century.

A suburban belt of factories and worker's dwellings

sprang up with car manufacturing dominating the economy.

With its more modern architecture, these outlying areas

are in stark contrast with the old city.

Another emerging sector in Pamplona is renewable energy.

More than 70% of its electricity

comes from wind and other renewable sources.

Contributing to Spain's position

as the fourth largest user of wind power.

It's no wonder then that behind this vast array

lining the mountain ridges is one of the biggest

wind turbine companies in the world.

Crossing the River Arga, we continue into the mountains.

Beyond this peak is a bowl like valley,

so characteristic of the Pyrenees.

Formed from glacial erosion.

And nestled in one of the hollows and sheltered

from the strong north winds is the town

of Salinas de Oro, known for its saltwater baths.

Great lakes are few and far between in the Pyrenees

but here we find Alloz, where the locals

are actually able to windsurf due to

the strong gusts that blow across the lake.

The reservoir was built in 1930 to provide water

to assist with the dry farming landscape.

We're now over the foothills of the Andia Range.

The village of Lezaun lies between two major roads

that service this western region of Navarre.

We make our way up to a massive escarpment

that's part of of the Urbasa and Andia ranges.

Together they form a major natural park in

northwest Navarre, spanning nearly 21,000 hectares.

The mountains create a geographical barrier separating

two major bio climates, the Atlanta and the Mediterranean.

Beech woods cover 70% of the park,

they give way to flat pastoral areas called razos,

which are approximately 1000 meters high

and scattered with heather and hawthorns.

These are known scientifically as karstic ranges.

Meaning that the limestone soil allows water

to filter below the surface and run underground,

limiting surface water such as rivers and lakes.

This drainage creates a large amount of pot holes,

sink holes and chasms throughout the park,

making it ideal for caving enthusiasts.

The edge of the Urbasa-Andia Natural Park

marks the border of Navarre.

Here, we make our way towards

the second largest Basque city.

Overshadowed by Bilbao and San Sebastian,

Vitoria has been described by one of the leading British

newspapers as the forgotten gem of Basque Country.

The region's capital dates back to the Middle Ages.

The old quarter still has the medieval almond shaped layout,

and at it's apex is the cathedral

that once served as a gateway to the city.

Adding to it's roster of magnificent churches,

the new cathedral, Spain's second largest church,

was built in the 20th Century.

With a history of craftsmanship,

many of the old quarter streets

are named after trades like blacksmith,

shoemaker and painter.

Vitoria was named European Green Capital in 2012,

partly due to the green ring,

a network of parks around the city.

But for visitors, the main attractions

are it's two main squares.

Plaza de la Virgen Blanca commemorates

the Battle of Victoria with this statue,

signifying the end of French rule in Spain.

Nearby is the Plaza de Espana,

otherwise known as Plaza Nueva.

The city's neoclassical town hall presides over the square.

Designed in the 18th Century as a signal

of urban expansion and uniting the old quarter

with a newer district.

The square originally held bull fights,

but today it's used for weekend markets

and cultural festivities.

As we head south from Vitoria,

we cross into the tiny enclave of Trevino.

Though it lies entirely within the Basque Country,

it's actually administered by a neighboring authority.

This has been a point of contention

between the two autonomous governments

for over a century.

We dip back into Basque Country once more

to catch a brief glimpse of Lagran,

a once strategic mountain town

where two communication channels crossed.

Today it rests peacefully among

the Cantabria mountain range.

Passing an elevation of nearly 1300 meters,

over Cruz del Castillo, reveals one of the great

wine making regions in the world,

the Rioja Alavesa Valley.

The gateway to the region is the picturesque

city of Laguardia.

Perched on a hill, it is surrounded by

some of Spain's most famous vineyards and wineries.

A 13th Century wall built by Navarre king Sancho the Strong

encircles the town where the 18th Century

church of San Juan situated at it's southern tip.

Once its days as a military post were over,

Laguardia residents began taking advantage

of the optimal conditions in the underground tunnels

to make and store wine.

Today Laguardia is a prosperous town

full of gourmet restaurants and hotels.

At the bodegas or wineries, visitors can taste

some of the finest Riojas from the region.

The most architecturally striking bodega here

is the Ysios Winery.

Inaugurated in 2001, it was conceived as

a temple for the worship of wine.

The roof is made of wooden beams,

finished in aluminum, a contrast to the exterior walls,

which are lined with timber slats

intended to resemble rows of barrels.

This fertile valley is governed by

the autonomous community of La Rioja.

There are three sub regions,

whose wines all fall under the prestigious classification,

and together they produce 250 million

liters of wine annually, 85% of which are reds.

Most wine producers own vineyards right across the valley,

and because many Riojas are blended from grapes

harvested at more than one site,

they are not necessarily labeled by sub region.

The quality of the fruit can vary greatly

depending on the geography.

Those grown here benefit from the cool sheltering

of the Cantabrian Mountains,

leaving the wine with a good acidity

and mineral character.

The vines we see are largely tempranillo,

a black grape that produces full bodied reds.

They account for 80% of all planting in

the mostly chalky and clay soils of Rioja Alavesa.

A little further west is the small town of San Vicente,

on the banks of the River Ebro.

Perched on the top of the hill

are the remains of a 12th Century castle.

Once a formidable fortress,

it was part of the defensive line

between Laguardia and La Bastida.

Beside it is the red roof church of Santa Maria Maggiore.

Built in the 16th Century,

it continues to hold services once a week.

Another small town of note along the River Ebro

is Haro, situated in the western wine region of Rioja Alta.

Its distinctive landmark, the Church of Saint Thomas,

is a Spanish national monument.

The tower is visible from almost any part of the town,

as well as the outlying areas.

About a kilometer north is a splendid medieval relic.

Stretching 150 meters across the Ebro is the Brinas Bridge.

The oldest parts of the stone structure

are estimated to have been built in the 13th Century.

The bridge was one of the few crossings of the River Ebro.

It provided the only safe passage

for Christian pilgrims on their way to Compostela.

It was used for traffic right up until the 1950s,

when another bridge was built further along the river.

Nearby is the village of Sajazarra,

surrounded by vineyards on all sides.

Looming over the houses is Castillo Palacio,

constructed in the 15th Century

when the village became an estate of the House of Velasco.

Today it's Sajazarra's most treasured winery.

Leaving La Rioja and its vineyards,

our journey now turns southwest

over the arid plains of Castile and León.

This is the geological edge that separates

the central plateau of the Iberian peninsula

from the Ebro Valley.

It's a truly diverse landscape of mountain ranges,

plains, and depressions.

These winding narrow canyons break up the plateaus

in intricate and varied patterns.

Flying low through one of the ravines

reveals how every available space has been cultivated.

Whereas La Rioja is mainly devoted to vineyards,

Castile and León is a major grower of cereals,

and is known as the granary of Spain.

This winding path will eventually lead us

to our last stop on this aerial journey

around northern Spain,

the historic city of Burgos.

The capital of Castile and León emerged

as an economic powerhouse in the Middle Ages,

as it was a key way point on the pilgrims' route

to Santiago de Compostela.

Burgos celebrates its link with 11th Century

Spanish national hero El Cid,

who was raised and educated here.

It later played an important role

during the Spanish Civil War as a base

for General Franco's rebel nationalist government.

But today the bustling city of 180,000 inhabitants

is more associated with first class cuisine,

tree lined promenades and its many historic landmarks.

With fine examples of Spanish gothic architecture,

Burgos has managed to preserve much of its past,

like the famous gateway of Santa Maria.

This bridge, crossing the River Arlanzon,

directs pedestrians to a limestone arch

erected in the 16th Century to first welcome

Emperor Charles V to Burgos.

The facade holds statues of key figures

in the city's history.

And saving the best til last, this is Burgos Cathedral,

a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Construction began in 1221,

then continued sporadically for the next 350 years.

Each stage of building employed

the greatest architects of Europe.

The facade was inspired by the cathedrals

of Paris and Reims.

The three story elevation, vaulting and windows,

all reflected French designs of the time.

Construction was halted for over 200 years,

before picking up in the mid 15th Century

when these intricate ornamentations were added.

This can be seen in the steep hollow spires

that crown the graceful towers.

In 1917, the tomb of El Cid was relocated

to Burgos Cathedral, providing the Spanish hero

with a resplendent final resting place.

And a fine place to end this journey.

(upbeat music)